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Collection  de 
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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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1 

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6 

JOURNAL 


or  AN 


EXPLORING  TOUR 

BEYOND   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS, 

UNDER  THE  DIRECTION  OP  THE 

A.  B.  C.  F.  M. 

PERFORMED    IN    THE   YEARS 

1835,  '36,  AND  137; 


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V 


CONTAINING  ,, 

A   DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  GEOGHAPHY,   GEOLOGy,   CLIMATC^  AMU 

PBODUCTIONS;  AND   THE   NUMBER,   MANNERS,   A»D     xyryJfl  I 

CUSTOMS   OF  THE    NATIVES.  .  ,f    ,..     ...o 


WITH  A 


■i 


MAP  OF  OREGON  TERRITORY. 


< ) 


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BY  RBV.  SAmUBI.  PARKER,  A.  »« 


ITHACA,  N.  Y. 
PUBLISHED   BY  THE  AUTHOR 

MMk,  AndriM,  *  Woodrofl,  Friotm 

1838, 


»-"^ 

H 


\  I 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1638,  by 
Samuel  Parkeb,  in  the  Clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  North- 
tan  District  of  New  York. 


'*•■■ 


r  1838,  by 
the  North- 


PREFACE. 


In  presenting  to  the  public  the  Journal  of  a  Tour  be- 
yond the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  only  apology  necessary  to 
make  is,  the  hope  of  promoting  a  more  extensive  and  par- 
ticular knowledge  than  has  heretofore  been  furnished,  of  the 
condition  of  that  important  section  of  our  country.  The 
author's  mode  of  traveling  furnished  many  opportunities 
for  observation,  being  conducted  with  leisure,  and  through 
one  of  the  most  interesting  portions  of  the  wide  territories 
of  the  west.  It  is  believed  that  no  defects  exist  in  the  work, 
irreconcilable  with  a  strict  adherence  to  facts.  The  prin- 
cipal merit  which  is  claimed  for  this  volume  is,  a  scrupulous 
adherence  to  truth.  Most  of  what  is  narrated  in  this  work 
came  under  the  author's  personal  observation,  and  whatever 
is  stated  which  did  not,  was  collected  from  gentlemen  con- 
nected with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  whose  reputation 
for  honesty  and  candor,  as  well  as  capability  of  judging  in- 
telligently, is  well  established.  This  source  of  information 
was  available  by  comparing  and  collecting  the  statements 
of  different  individuals,  retaining  what  corresponded  with 
his  own  observation,  or  was  well  supported  by  evidence. 
The  belief  is  cherished,  that  the  following  work  contains  a 
greater  amount  of  statistical  information  in  regard  to  the 


mi 


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.  1  -.:.:  t  • 


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IV 


PREFACE. 


country,  and  important  facts,  than  are  to  be  found  in  any 
production  furnished  by  the  press.     Having  traveled  over 
a  greater  extent  of  territory  than  any  who  had  preceded, 
and  with  the  express  object  of  exploring  the  condition  of 
the  aboriginal  population,  this  position  can  not  be  consid- 
ered as  assumed.     Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke  passed  the 
Rocky  Mountains  under   a  governmental  appointment  to 
explore  the  country,  more  than  thirty  years  since,  and  their 
published  travels  carry  with  them  the  evidence  of  candor 
and  intelligence,  and  contain  much  valuable  information  ;  yet 
their  opportunities  l)eyond  the  mountains  were  somewhat 
limited.     They  passed  over  the  great  chain  of  mountains 
from  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri  between  the  45*^  and 
46°  of  north  latitude,  and  came  upon  the  head  waters  of  the 
Cooscootske,  and  followed  that  river  to  its  junction  with  the 
Lewis  or  Snake  river,  and  then  proceeded  by  water  to  the 
Pacific  ocean  at  the  mouth  of  Columbia  river,  wintered 
upon  the  south  side  of  the  bay,  and  early  the  following 
spring  returned  to  the  mountains  by  the  same  route  which 
they  pursued  on  their  outward  journey.     All  other  persons 
who  have  published  any  history  of  their  travels  beyond  the 
mountains,  were  persons  engaged  in  the  fur  trade,  and  ma- 
ny of  their  observations  upon  different  sections  of  the  coun- 
try  are  just,  but  they  are  deficient  in  statistical  information, 
and  their  productions  are  mostly  confined  to  personal  adven- 
tures, anecdotes  of  battles  with  Blackfeet  or  Crow  Indians, 
starvation,  and  hair-breadth  escapes.     Justice  to  the  public 
requires  fidelity  in  the  historian  and  traveler.     It  is  not  our 
business  to  originate  facts,  but  to  record  them.    The  license 
given  to  poets,  or  writers  of  romance,  cannot  be  tolerated 


\H 


)ersons 
nd  the 
d  ma. 
coun- 
ation, 
dven- 
dians, 
ublic 
)t  our 
icense 
[rated 


PREFACE.  V 

here,  and  no  flights  of  a  lively  imagination,  or  graphic 
powers  in  relating  passing  occurrences,  can  atone  for  im- 
pressions which  are  not  in  accordance  with  truth.  While 
it  was  the  leading  object  to  become  acquainted  with  the  sit- 
uation of  the  remote  Indian  tribes,  and  their  disposition  itt 
regard  to  teachers  of  Christianity,  yet  a  careful  attention 
was  given  to  the  geography  of  the  country,  its  productions ; 
the  climate  and  seasons,  animals,  lakes,  rivers,  and  smaller 
fountains  ;  forests  and  prairies,  mountains  and  valleys,  its 
mineral  and  geological  structure,  and  all  the  various  aspects 
of  its  physical  condition.  The  country  here  described  is 
sui  generis  ;  every  thing  is  formed  on  a  large  scale.  Its  lof- 
ty and  perpetual  snow-topped  mountains  rising  20,000  feet 
or  more,  the  trees  of  the  forest,  the  wide  extended  prairies, 
plants  of  enormous  growth,  and  the  results  of  volcanic 
agency  which  you  meet  in  almost  every  direction,  render 
the  whole  an  ever  increasing  scene  of  interest  to  the  trav- 
eler ;  and  if  any  statements  appear  large,  it  is  because  the 
facts  are  so  in  themselves. 

It  has  been  an  object  in  writing  this  volume  to  compress 
as  much  as  possible  the  amount  of  information,  instead  of 
unnecessarily  extending  it,  and  the  hopt  -3  indulged,  that 
while  these  facts  are  perused,  the  desire  may  be  awakened 
if  it  does  not  already  exist,  and  if  in  existence,  may  be 
greatly  increased,  to  benefit  the  original,  the  rightful  own- 
ers, and,  (with  the  exception  of  a  few  thousand  fur  traders 
scattered  to  every  point  of  compass  over  this  territory,)  the 
sole  occupants  of  this  wide  field  of  uncultivated  nature. 

The  map  which  accompanies  this  work  has  been  prepar- 
ed with  much  labor  and  care ;  and  though  some  minute^ 


i 


4^V>f 


•(Tw 


m 


VI 


PREFACE. 


parts  are  omitted^  it  will  be  found  to  be  far  more  accurate 
than  any  which  has  heretofore  been  published.  In  addi> 
tion  to  surveys  of  my  own,  I  have  availed  myself  of  those 
of  gentlemen  connected  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Compa- 
ny, in  parts  which  I  did  not  visit,  and  am  especially  in- 
debted to  Vancouver  and  the  labors  of  other  explorers  for 
much  that  I  have  dehneated  of  the  North-West  coast  of 
the  Pacific  ocean,  and  the  Islands. 

The  accompanying  engraving  of  the  basaltic  formation 
on  the  Columbia  river,  was  taken  for  the  purpose  of  ex- 
plaining the  geology,  as  mentioned  on  page  two  hundred  and 
twenty-six,  not,  however,  presenting  the  whole  number  of 
the  different  sections  of  basalt,  amygdaloid,  and  breccia, 
but  a  sufficient  number  to  illustrate  the  subject. 


'i  - 


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f 


accurate 
In  addi. 
of  those 
Compa- 
ially  in. 
3rers  for 
coast  of 

)rmation 
e  of  ex- 
dred  and 
imber  of 
breccia. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

The  Tour  commenced  by  way  of  Geneva  and  Buffalo ;  a  brief  de- 
Bcription  of  Erie ;  of  Meadville;  rest  at  Mercer ;  Pittsburgh;  pas- 
sage to  Cincinnati  in  the  steam-boat  Ohioan ;  WheeUng ;  Marietta ; 
Portsmouth;  the  steam-boat  takes  fire;  Cincinnati;  LouisviJle; 
Falls  of  the  Ohio ;  the  Ohio  river  ;  Ohio  and  Kentucky ;  conflu- 
ence of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers ;  Point  Girardou ;  beautiful 
appearance  of  fire  on  the  prairie ;  St.  Genevieve,  old  custom ; 
Herculaneum ;  gambling  on  board  the  steam-boats;  St.  Louis  ; 
Dr.  M.  Whitman  ;  Mr.  Fontenelle 13 


m 


^1 


CHAPTER  n. 

Leave  St.  Louis  for  Liberty;  passage  up  the  Missouri;  snags;  a 
walk  on  shore;  Jefferson  city;  river  scenery;  steam-boat  Siam; 
sand  bars;  Lexington;  steam-boat  disaster;  Liberty;  Navahoe 
Indians;  ride  to  Cantonment  Leavenworth;  amusing  dialect; 
caravan  commence  their  journey  ;  first  encampment ;  loway  In- 
dians; Blacksnake  Hills;  Nodaway  river ;  Elk;  crossed  the  Nesh- 
nabotana ;  rich  soil ;  rapid  rise  of  the  north  branch  of  Neshna- 
botana ;  mode  of  living ;  mounds  of  the  west ;  crossing  of  the 
Missouri;  Bellevue;  Missionaries.       ..;...      26 


A,. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Continuance  at  Council  Bluffs ;  interesting  scenery;  Indian  curios- 
ity ;  information  obtained  about  several  Indian  tribes ;  spasmodic 
cholera;  an  Indian  chief  killed;  leave  Bellevue  for  the  Black 
Hills ;  storm  of  rain ;  heavy  thunder  storm ;  Elkhorn  river,  the 
country  around ;  Loups  fork  of  the  Platte ;  manner  of  encamp- 
ing; Big  Ax,  Pawnee  chief;  Indian  feasting;  fourth  of  July; 
Messrs.  Dunlar  and  Allis;  thunder  storm;  Indian  ornaments; 
effects  of  drunkenness ;  bite  of  a  rattle-snake ;  buffalo  seen ;  Prai- 


Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


lie  horse-fly ;  forks  of  the  Platte ;  want  of  wood ;  swiftness  of 
antelopes;  climate;  thousands  of  buffalo;  Badgers;  prairie  dog; 
interesting  bluffs;  old  castle ;  the  chimney  or  beacon ;  an  alarm  ; 
Ogallallah  Indians,  their  lodges ;  Black  Hills 41 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Black  Hills ;  day  of  indulgence ;  buffalo  dance ;  the  desire  of  Indians 
for  instruction  ;  met  the  chiefs  in  council ;  re-commenced  our  jour- 
ney for  rendezvous ;  anthracite  coal ;  species  of  wormwood ;  Red 
Bute ;  traces  of  grizzly  bears ;  geology  ;  Rock  Independence ; 
Rocky  Mountains;  perpetual  snow;  valley  through  the  moun- 
tains; "thunder  spirits"  gone;  an  alarm;  waters  of  the  Color- 
ado.         


66 


CHAPTER  V. 

Arrive  at  rendezvous  ;  trappers  and  hunters ;  four  Indian  nations ; 
Flatheads  and  Nez  Perces,  no  reason  why  so  called ;  surgical  ope- 
rations; an  interview  with  the  Flathead  and  Nez  Perce  chiefs; 
their  anxiety  for  religious  instruction;  return  of  Doct.  Whitman ; 
Shoshones  and  Utaws ;  mountain  life 76 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Part  with  my  associate;  arrive  at  head  waters  of  the  Columbia; 
kindness  of  the  Indians ;  narrow  defile ;  geology ;  Jackson's  Hole ; 
wild  flax ;  trappers  go  out  on  a  hunt ;  mountain  prospect ;  Trois 
Tetons ;  danger  from  affrighted  buflfalo;  Pierre's  Hole;  volcanic 
chasm ;  children  on  horseback ;  interesting  worship  with  the  Indi- 
ans; burial  of  a  child;  scarcity  of  food;  a  timely  supply;  Sal- 
mon river;  expected  battle;  geological  observations;  scene  of 
mourning 82 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Salmon  river  and  mountains;  chimnies;  forest  trees,  new  species 
of  pine;  geology;  sulphur  lake;  a  rare  animal;  new  species  of 
squirrels  and  pheasant ;  came  to  the  Lewis  branch  of  the  Colum- 


lan 


41 


66 


75 


82 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


bia ;  ferryman ;  basaltic  formation ;  fine  climate ;  arrive  at  Walla 
Walla. 108 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Description  of  Walla  Walla ;  the  kind  treatment  of  the  Indians  by 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company ;  leave  Walla  Walla  for  Port  Vancou- 
ver; loquacious  orator;  rapids;  introduction  to  the  Cayuse  Indi- 
ans; morning  prospect;  long  rapids;  volcanic  mountains ;  trial 
of  Indian  generosity ;  arrival  at  the  falls  of  the  Columbia  river ; 
the  rousing  effects  of  oratory ;  La  Dalles ;  Boston  trading  compa- 
ny; remarkable  subsidence  ;  Cascades;  Chenooks  are  the  Flat- 
heads  and  Nez  Perces ;  dangerous  rapids ;  Indian  burying  places ; 
Pillar  Rock ;  interesting  water  fall ;  sea  fowl ;  arrive  at  Fort  Van- 
couver  


123 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Description  of  Fort  Vancouver;  departure  for  Port  George  and 
mouth  of  the  Columbia ;  mouths  of  the  Multnotnah ;  Wappatoo 
island ;  May  Dacre ;  coffin  rock ;  Cowalitz  river ;  Indian  friend- 
ship ;  Pacific  ocean ;  Gray's  bay ;  Astoria 140 


CHAPTER  X. 

Description  of  Fort  George ;  mouth  of  the  Columbia ;  dangerous 
bar;  mountainous  coast;  varieties  of  timber;  good  location  for 
a  missionary  station;  continued  rains;  dense  fon  sis ;  excursion 
in  a  canoe  down  the  bay ;  view  of  the  coast ;  disasters  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Columbia ;  ship  William  and  Anne ;  ship  Isabella ; 
Tonquin ;  Japanese  junk ;  reflections ;  water  fowl ;  return  to  Fort 
Vancouver ;  the  regard  Indians  show  the  dead;  Indian  kindness.  146 


k: 


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f.k' 


'  ■•    'V.' 

■  -.'if 


isies 

of 

im- 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Review  of  journeyings ;  school;  journey  up  the  Willamette;  walk 
upon  the  pebbly  shore ;  falls ;  settlement  on  the  Willamette ;  meth- 
odist  mission;  epidemic;  voyage  down  the  river;  hospitality  of 
Wanaxka ;  construction  of  liis  house ;  Port  WilUam  on  the  Wap- 


1  •  -S-'' 

m 

■' 


CONTENTS. 

patoo  island ;  astonishing  thirst  for  ardent  spirits ;  return  to  Fort 
Vancouver 158 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Services  on  the  sabbath ;  obstacles  to  the  gospel ;  discouraging  case ; 
manner  of  spending  time ;  description  of  Vancouver ;  fur  and  farm- 
ing establishment;  garden  productions;  lumber;  commerce; 
peltries  ;  system  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company;  waste  of  life; 
hardships  of  a  hunter's  life;  their  perseverance;  christian  princi- 
ple ;  worldly  principle 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Indian  population;  diseases;  mortality;  attributed  to  cultivation  of 
the  soil ;  destitute  of  medical  science ;  holidays ;  customs  at  home ; 
customs  of  the  Indians ;  resemblance  to  Jewish  customs  in  pun- 
ishment; marriage  contracts ;  condition  of  ihe  females ;  slavery; 
division  into  tribes;  two  points  of  dissimilarity;  sacrifices;  lan- 
guage  


170 


178 


The 


Convl 
earl 
the! 
call 
the! 


CHAPTER  XW. 

Tho  various  animals  beyond  the  mountains. 


186 


'hi 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Pish ;  description  of  salmon  ;  salmon  fishery ;  dendrology  ;  shrub- 
bery;  nutritive  roots;  geography;  mountains;  valleys;  plains; 
forests;  rivers;  soil;  seasons.  198 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Qoology. 


208 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Character  and  condition  of  the  Indinns;  Indians  of  the  plains;  their 
persons;  dress;  wealth;  habits;  physical  character ;  manufac- 
tures ;  their  religion ;  wars  :  vices ;  moral  disposition  ;  supersti- 
tions ;  medicine  men 228 


n  to  Port 


158 


[ingcase; 
md  farm- 
mmerce ; 
te  of  life; 
n  princi- 


170 


vation  of 
at  home; 
9  in  pun- 
slavery  ; 
es ;  lan- 


178 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  Xyill. 

The  Indians  of  the  lower  couniry. 


ZI 


242 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Conversation  with  an  intelligent  Indian ;  meeting  with  Indians ; 
early  and  mild  season ;  La  Dalle  Indians ;  their  jnxiety  to  receive 
the  gospel:  ornithology;  Nootka  humming  bird;  number  and  lo- 
cation of  the  Indians  in  the  lower  country ;  Indians  of  the  north  ; 
the  agitated  question ;  solitariness 263 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Departure  for  the  upper  country  ;  American  hunters ;  geology  at  the 
Cascades ;  Indian  honesty ;  escape  in  a  dangerous  gale ;  the  Falls 
a  favorable  location  for  a  missionary  station ;  tender  sympathy  ; 
famished  Indians ;  arrival  at  Walla  Walla ;  interesting  meeting  of 
Indiana ;  opportunity  to  give  them  religious  instruction ;  a  walk ; 
the  nutritious  quality  of  prairie  grass 264 


m 


Vf.ia 


186 


shrub- 
plains  ; 


198 


208 


their 
nufac- 
jpersli- 


226 


CHAPTER  XXL 

Journey  to  the  Ncz  Perce  country ;  funeral  of  a  child ;  natural  scen- 
ery; worship  on  the  sabbath ;  return  to  Walla  Walla ;  industry  of 
the  Indians ;  battle  ground  ;  practice  of  smoking ;  journey  to  Col- 
viUe 275 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Paloose  Indians ;  Pavilion  river;  extraoiilinary  excavation  ;  lost  on 
the  prairie ;  Indian  principle ;  Spokein  woods  and  country  ;  Indi- 
an ferry  ;  Spokein  valley  ;  Granite  ;  volcanic  curiosities  ;  fertile 
valley ;  worship  with  the  Spokeins ;  Mill  river  valley  ;  arrival  at 
Fort  Colville ;  description  of  the  place ;  leave  Colvillo  for  Fort 
Okanagan  ;  a  mountain  of  marble:  Grand  Coule,  or  old  bed  of 
the  Columbia ;  Okanagan  described ;  Long  Rapids ;  arrive  at  Wal- 
la Walla > tti 


^f 


-em 


'  •:"*'. 


|..;^ 


Kky  >i 


V     1  •  "I  , 


XII 


CONTENTS. 


w 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

A  summary  of  the  Indians  of  the  upper  country ;  names  of  the 
tribes,  their  locations  and  numbers ;  leave  Walla  Walla  for  Fort 
Vancouver  ;  swift  passage  down  the  river ;  run  the  Falls ;  Cas- 
cades ;  dangerous  eddy ;  arrive  at  Vancouver ;  steam-boat  excur- 
sion  


300 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

General  remarks ;  Meteorological  table ;  Vocabulary  of  the  Nez  Per- 
ce, Chenook,  Klicatat,  and  Callapooa  languages ;  Ornithology. 


3n 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

The  voyage  commenced  fo"  the  Sandwich  islands ;  passage  in  the 
boat  down  the  river ;  take  passage  in  the  barque  Columbia ;  deten- 
tion in  Chenook  bay  ;  arrival  at  the  islands ;  worship  in  the  native 
church  ;  description  of  Oahu  ;  the  Pari ;  the  valley  of  Manoa ;  de- 
scription of  Honolulu  ;  of  Waititi ;  heathen  temple ;  Eva ;  Waia- 
lua  ;  Keneohe  ;  mountains  ;  salt  lake ;  geology ;  natural  produc- 
tions ;  animals  ;  government ;  tea  party  of  the  royal  family ;  din- 
ner to  the  officers  of  the  Peacock  and  Enterprise ;  decrease  of  pop- 
ulation; unfair  negotiations;  foreign  residents;  charity  school; 
seamen's  chapel ;  burying  place  of  the  royal  family  ;  missionary 
success 


341 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Departure  from  Oahu  in  ship  Phoenix  for  the  United  States;  call 
at  the  Society  islands;  brief  description  of  Tahiti  and  Eimeo;  se- 
vere gales  of  wind ;  Magellan  clouds ;  Martin  Vass  island  ;  Trin- 
idad ;  arrival  at  New  liondon 360 


The 
tio 
Cii 
ino 
Oh 
anc 
on 
on 
cIIcJ 

Ti 

the  1 
cond 
Is3t  i 
of  th 
ical 
atten 
to  t\ 
God 
who 

ty. 

Miss 
to  ai 
char 
for  i 


li^:: 

m 


;'j;r 


f\  (/* 


of  the 
or  Fort 
s;  Cas- 
t  excur- 


300 


fez  Per- 

logy. 


312 


in  the 
;  deten- 
e  native 
loa;  de- 
;  Waia- 
produc- 
ly ;  din- 

of  pop- 
school  ; 
sionary 


341 


Is;  call 

|o;  se- 
Trin- 


360 


( 


PARKER'S  TOUR. 


CHAPTER  I. 

The  Tour  commenced  by  way  of  Geneva  and  Buffalo— a  brief  descrip- 
tion of  Erie— of  Meadville — rest  at  Mercer. — Pittsburgh — passage  to 
Cincinnati  in  the  steam-boat  Ohioan — Wheeling— Marietta-— Ports- 
mouth— the  steam-boat  took  fire— Cincinnati— Louisville — Falls  of  the 
Ohio— the  Ohio  river— Ohio  and  Kentucky— coflnuence  of  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi  rivers— Point  Girardou— beautiful  appearance  of  fire 
on  the  prairie— St.  Genevieve,  old  custom — Herculaneum — gambling 
on  board  the  steam-boats — St.  Louis— Dr.  M.  Whitman— Mr.  Fonten- 
die. 

The  wide  extent  of  country  beyond  the  Mississippi  and 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  its  inhabitants  and  physical 
condition,  has  been  a  subject  of  interesting  enquiry  for  the 
last  thirty  years.  Many  things,  relating  to  the  possessioa 
of  the  country,  its  future  probable  importance  in  a  polit- 
ical view,  its  population  and  trade,  have  occupied  much 
attention.  The  christian  public  have  not  been  inattentive 
to  the  interests,  moral  and  religious,  of  those  whom  the 
God  of  providence  has  placed  in  these  remote  regions,  and 
who  are  without  the  blessings  of  civilization  and  christiani- 
ty.  The  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign 
Missions,  appointed  an  exploring  mission  to  that  country, 
to  ascertain,  by  personal  observation,  the  condition  and 
character  of  the  Indian  nations  and  tribes,  and  the  facilities 
for  introducing  the  gospel  and  civilization  among  them. 


m 


p.- 

m 


i 


'■-iV 


\ 


14 


ERIE ^MEADVILLE, 


HJ' 


!il|: 


That  difficulties  and  dangers  would  be  incident  to  a  jour- 
ney through  a  country  of  such  extent,  uninhabited  except 
by  wandering  bands  of  Indians,  where  no  provisions  could 
be  obtained  besides  uncertain  game,  could  not  be  doubted. 
It  was  not  a  consciousness  of  undaunted  courage,  or  in- 
difference to  suffering,  or  the  love  of  romance,  which  fixed 
my  purpose  ;  but  it  was  the  importance  of  the  object.     It 
was  a  trial  to  leave  my  family  not  knowing  what  was  before 
us,  but  when  the  time  came  to  commence  my  journey,  we 
committed  ourselves  to  God,  and  the  enterprise  was  under-. 
taken  without  reluctance   on  the  14th  of  March,    1835. 
Spent  the  next  day,  which  was  the  Sabbath,  at  Geneva ; 
and  the  following  day  continued  my  journey  by  way  of 
Buffalo,  travelling  day  and  night,  to  Erie,  Pennsylvania, 
where  I  arrived  on   the   19th.     Erie  is  a  very   pleasant 
village,  of  considerable  business,  situated  upon  the  south 
shore  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name.     It  has  a  good  harbor 
for  steam-boats,  which  pass  up  and  down  the  lake,  and  for 
the  accommodation  of  which,  wharves  have  been  built  at 
very  considerable  expense.     The  country  around  is  fertile, 
and  presents  much  promise  for  the  agriculturist.     Had  a 
night's  rest  at  the  hospitable  dwelling  of  the  Rev.  G.  A, 
Lyon.     On  the  20th  took  stage  for  Pittsburgh,  which  is 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  south  ;  and  on  the  morning 
of  the  next  day  breakfasted  at  Meadville,  a  very  pleasant 
inland   village,   situated  near  French  Creek,  forty  milea 
south  of  Erie.      Here  is  a  court-house,  and  a  college  of 
which  Rev.  T.  Alden,  D.  D.  was  the  first  president,  who 
took  a  very  active  part  in  its  establishment.     The  col- 
lege edifice  is  situated  upon  an  eminence  facing  the  south, 
and  commanding  a  fine  prospect.     There  arc  also  in  this 
village  two  churches,  and  several  other  public  buildings. 
From  this  place  to  Mercer  the  roads  were  extremely  bad, 
on  account  of  the  depth  of  the  mud ;  but  the  difficulties 
were  overcome  by  the  usual  methods  of  profuse  whipping, 


al 
ii 


to  a  jour- 
ed  except 
ions  could 
doubted, 
ge,  or  in- 
hich  fixed 
bject.     It 
vas  before 
irney,  we 
as  under-- 
ih,    1835. 
Geneva ; 
y  way  of 
isylvania, 
pleasant 
the  south 
»od  harbor 
),  and  for 
n  built  at 
is  fertile, 
Had  a 
V.  G.  A, 
M  hich  is 
morning 
pleasant 
rty  miles 
ioUege  of 
lent,  who 
ixhe  col- 
16  south, 
in  this 
ildings. 
lelv  bad, 
IfTicuIties 
hipping, 


"■^   PITTSBURG II. 


15 


unloading  the  vehicle,  and  applying  rails  to  the  wheels; 
at  length  we  arrived  late  in  the  night  at  Mercer,  where  we 
got  an  opportunity  for  a  little  rest,  which  was  very  accept- 
able, having  only  one  night's  rest  out  of  seven.  Continued 
in  this  place  over  Sabbath,  and  until  Tuesday  morning. 
How  desirable  is  the  Sabbath  as  a  day  of  quiet  and  of  devo- 
tion. I  never  felt  it  to  be  more  so.  Was  invited,  while  I 
should  continue  in  this  place,  to  share  the  hospitality  of 

Mrs.  P ,  whose  family  I  found  to  be  very  agreeable 

and  pious.     Mrs.  P and  her  brother  J.  P.  S.,  appear 

to  be  very  devoted  and  ready  to  do  whatever  may  promote 
the  glory  of  God  and  the  salvation  of  souls. 

Took*  stage  five  o'clock  Tuesday  morning,  and  passing 
through   Centreville  and  Butler,  small,  pleasant  villages, 
arrived  at  Pittsburgh  on  the  twenty-fifth.     Dined  with  Dr. 
Herron.     Pittsburgh  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Alleghany  and  Monongahela  rivers,  nine  hundred  and  sixty 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  river.     Its  location  is 
judiciously  chosen.     The  country  around,  agreeably  diver- 
sified with  hills  and  vallies,  together  with  meadows  and 
bluffs  which  skirt  the  rivers,  adds  much  to  its  charms.     In 
point  of  manufactures,  population  and  wealth,  but  few  places 
in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  equal  this  in  importance. 
Among  its  manufactories  are  many  large  iron  foundries, 
rolling-mills,  and  nail  factories  ;  also  large  establishments 
of  glass  works,  in  some  of  which  is  manufactured  flint  glass 
of  an  excellent  quality  and  good  workmanship.     The  mate- 
rials for  making  this  are  uncommonly  good.     The  lx3st  of 
granular  quartz  of  loose  texture  is  obtained  from  a  location 
«ome  little  distance  up  the  Alleghany  river,  where  there  are 
inexhaustable  quantities.     It  is  more  purely  white  than  is 
often  found.     On  this  account,  this  place  has  nn  important 
advantage  over  most  others  for  manufacturing  the  above- 
named  article.     There  are  also  several  large  cotton,  and 
many   other   factories,   of  various  character.     There  arc 


m 

IS* 

Mm'', 


pi 


•J' 


,t 


I ! 


i     :' 


;>|P  WHEELING — ^XASIETTA. 

such  immense  quantities  of  excellent  pit  coal  about  this 
place,  that  there  is  no  reason  to  fear  it  will  ever  be  exhaust- 
ed, or  become  expensive.  The  city  is  well  built ;  but  has 
rather  a  gloomy  appearance,  caused  by  the  smoke  of  the 
bituminous  coal  so  much  used  in  their  factories  and  dwell- 
ings. While  Lowell  is  the  Manchester,  Pittsburgh  is  the 
Birmingham,  of  America.  »       f  ' 

There  are  in  this  city,  thirteen  houses  of  worship,  and 
many  public  institutions  for  literature,  justice,  and  com- 
merce. With  the  name  of  Pittsburgh,  will  always  be 
associated  Braddock's  defeat,  which  took  place  when  he 
was  sent  to  take  possession  of  Fort  Du  Quesne,  and  with 
this  event  will  also  be  associated  the  skill  and  prudence  of 
Washington  in  conducting  the  retreat.  Toward  the  eve- 
ning of  the  day  of  my  arrival  here,  took  passage  in  the 
steam-boat  Ohioan  for  Cincinnati,  four  hundred  and  fifty- 
five  miles  from  Pittsburgh  by  the  river,  and  calmly  descend- 
ed the  Ohio,  which  winds  its  way  through  a  fertile  country 
diversified  with  forests,  cultivated  fields,  and  flourishing  vil- 
lages. On  the  morning  of  the  26th,  stopped  at  Wheeling, 
Va.  ninety-two  miles  below  Pittsburgh,  situated  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  upon  elevated  ground,  surrounded 
by  high  and  steep  hills.  The  great  Cumberland  road  cross- 
es the  Ohio  here  by  a  ferry.  It  is  a  manufacturing  town 
of  growing  importance. 

Passed  Marietta  seventy-six  miles  below  Wheeling,  situ- 
ated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Ohio,  a  little  above  the  conflu- 
ence  of  the  Muskingum.  It  is  surrounded  with  a  fertile 
country,  and  is  one  of  the  first  settled  towns  in  the  state. 
The  first  wagon  arrived  from  Massachusetts  in  1788,  and 
Cutler's  and  Putnam's  names  are  still  remembered  in  this 
place.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  business  ;  has  a  court- 
house,  two  churches,  and  an  academy ;  and  from  the  obser- 
vation I  could  make  of  it  in  the  evening,  I  should  think  it 
handsomely  situated.         ,, 


inf 
Ol 

27^ 
pa( 

CH 

nai 

thel 

vill 

on  ;j 

(teri 


.eSiaSf- CINCINNATI. 


17 


1  about  this 
*  be  exhaust, 
ilt ;  but  has 
naoke  of  the 
s  and  dwell- 
burgh  is  the 

'orship,  and 
)f  and  com- 

always  be 
ce  when  he 
le,  and  with 
prudence  of 
ard  the  eve- 
sage  in  the 
id  and  fifty- 
ily  descend- 
tile  country 
rishing  vil- 

Wheeling, 
ted  on  the 
surrounded 
road  cross, 
iring  town 

}ling,  situ. 

the  conflu. 

a  fertile 

the  state. 

11788,  and 

;d  in  this 

a  court. 

the  obser- 

think  it 


: 


Passed  Portsmouth,  situated  upon  the  east  bank  of  the 
Sciota,  near  its  junction  with  the  Ohio.  This  is  a  flourish- 
ing village,  and  has  the  advantage  of  being  upon  the  great 
Ohio  canal,  where  it  enters  the  river.  The  morning  of  the 
27th,  we  stopped  at  Maysville,  Kentucky.  This  is  a  com- 
pact,  well-built  town,  situated  a  little  below  Limestone 
Creek,  sixty-five  miles  above  Cincinnati.  There  is  but  a 
narrow  strip  of  land,  on  which  the  village  is  built,  between 
the  river  and  a  chain  of  high  hills  close  in  the  rear  of  the 
village.  Manufactures  and  considerable  trade  are  carried 
on ;  and  its  location  is  favorable  for  business  with  the  in- 
•terior  of  the  state.  -  •.         -      -       ,        -i 

Arrived  at  Cincinnati  on  the  28th.  On  our  way  to- 
day,  near  the  town  of  Ripley,  the  boat  took  fire  in  the  hold. 
There  was  a  very  stiff  head  wind,  which  blew  the  fire  back 
from  the  furnace  down  the  hatch  way,  which  after  taking 
out  some  goods,  had  been  carelessly  left  open.  It  caused  great 
alarm.  The  captain  at  once  rounded  the  boat  to  the  shore, 
and  ran  it  in  among  some  trees.  As  soon  as  the  boat 
reached  the  land,  many  threw  their  baggage  on  shore,  and 
leaped  from  the  upper  deck.  The  hold  contained  many 
combustible  cotton  goods.  But  the  fire  was  subdued,  and 
after  considerable  difficulty  the  boat  was  again  under  way. 

Cincinnati  is  a  large  city  for  so  new  a  country,  situated 
in  the  south-west  corner  of  the  state,  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  upon  two  plains  ;  one  about  sixty  feet  above  the 
other,  both  of  which  appear  formerly  to  have  been  washed 
by  the  river.  The  lower  plain  is  about  fifty  feet  above  the 
bed  of  the  river  at  low  water.  The  streets  run  parallel  and 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles;  the  principal  ones  are 
paved,  also  the  bank  down  to  the  water  against  the  business 
part  of  tlie  city,  for  the  accommodation  of  loading  and  un- 
loading steam  and  other  boats.  It  is  well  built,  and  to  a 
considerable  extent  the  buildings  are  made  of  brick.     One 

would  hardly  think  from  the  mature  appearance,  and  from 

2* 


mi 

m 

U  'lv>l 

1^'  •  ■>.  <l 


h 


m 

^•■'^  I 

ft 


f  ■«.;  ,,^ 


&? 


:j' 


16 


FALLS  OF  THE  OHIO. 


the  quantity  of  business  going  forvt^ard,  that  the  first  settle- 
ment was  made  in  the  year  1789.  It  is  not  only  a  com- 
mercial, but  also  a  manufacturing,  place,  to  a  large  extent. 
The  population  is  composed  of  emigrants  and  their  descend- 
ants from  New  England,  and  the  middle  and  some  of  the 
southern  states,  and  also  from  various  parts  of  Europe ; 
and  consequently  of  not  a  very  homogeneous  character. 
The  city  is  well  supplied  with  schools  and  seminaries  of 
learning.  There  is  a  medical  college  in  the  city ;  and  two 
miles  back,  upon  a  pleasant  hill,  is  the  Lane  Theological 
Seminary,  which  promises  much  toward  helping  forward 
the  interests  of  religion  in  the  west.  Good  morals  and  re- 
ligion are  as  well  sustained  in  this  city  as  in  any  in  our 
land. 

Took  the  sieam-boat  Chien,  Captain  Reynolds,  for  St. 
Louis,  which  by  water  is  six  hundred  and  ninety  miles  from 
Cincinnati.  Arrived  on  the  30th  at  Louisville.  This  is  a 
jflourishing  city  situated  near  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  on  the 
Kentucky  side  of  the  river,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  be- 
low Cincinnati.  It  is  a  growing  place  of  much  commer- 
cial and  manufacturing  business.  The  falls  of  the  Ohio  are 
twenty-two  feet,  and  can  be  passed  over  by  boats  in  high 
water  only  ;  which  stage  of  water  does  not  average  more 
than  two  months  in  a  year.  To  save  expense  and  delay 
of  portage  around  the  falls,  a  canal  has  been  constructed 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river  at  great  labor  and  cost.  It 
is  two  miles  in  length,  fifty  feet  wide,  and  forty  feet  deep, 
and  is  cut  part  of  the  way  through  solid  limestone. 

The  water  being  high,  we  passed  over  the  falls.  It  was 
a  sublime  scene.  The  water  about  Louisville  moves  slowly 
and  smoothly;  but  as  you  draw  near  to  the  falls,  it  in- 
creases in  velocity  and  power.  You  soon  find  yourself 
in  an  irresistable  current ;  and  you  are  anxious  to  know 
whether  your  pilots  are  well  skilled  in  their  profession. — 
You  look  at  them  to  see  if  they  betray  any  fear ;  you  find. 


THE  OHIO  XIVEB— OHIO  AN1>  KENTUCKT. 


1» 


irst  settle- 
J  a  com- 
je  extent. 
'  descend- 
lie  of  the 

Europe ; 
iharacter. 
naries  of 

and  two 
leological 
\  forward 
Is  and  re- 
ny  in  our 

Is,  for  St. 

niles  from 

This  is  a 

0,  on  the 

miles  be« 

commer- 

Ohio  are 

in  high 

ige  more 

ind  delay 

astructed 

cost.     It 

eet  deep» 

It  was 

Bs  slowly 
s,  it  in- 
yourself 
to  know 
ssion. — 
^ou  tindi 


while  their  attention  is  fixed,  their  countenances  are  serene. 
Your  fears  give  way  to  the  pleasure  of  the  sublime.  The 
boat  shoots  forward  with  amazing  force  and  velocity,  and 
very  soon  you  find  yourself  gliding  along  in  the  wide-spread 
calm  below.  ,  .  r  . 

The  Ohio  is  a  noble  river,  affording  in  its  whole  course 
romantic  and  beautiful  prospects.  It  flows  in  a  smooth  and 
easy  current,  and  is  diversified  on  every  side  with  rich  bot- 
tom land,  rolling  hills,  and  precipitous  blufis.  These  hills 
and  bluffs,  in  many  places,  rise  abruptly  from  the  shore  of 
the  river,  in  other  places  they  recede  some  miles,  but  in 
every  part  are  in  view  ;  and  so  varied  is  the  scenery,  that 
there  is  no  weariness  caused  by  monotony.  No  where  has 
the  hand  of  industry  been  wanting  to  add  interest  in  pass- 
ing through  this  part  of  the  great  western  valley.  Farms^ 
and  towns,  and  villages,  evince  the  advantage  that  has  been 
taken  of  the  exuberance  of  the  soil.  The  many  swift- 
moving,  panting  steam-boats  show  that  industry  furnishes 
the  means  of  wide-extended  and  profitable  commerce.  One 
can  not  but  notice  the  difference  in  the  taste  and  habits 
presented  on  the  two  sides  of  this  river.  Upon  the  Ohio 
side,  New  England  modes  and  habits  prevail.  Upon  the 
Kentucky  side,  the  style  of  the  rich  Virginian  planter  is 
seen.  Though  almost  all  their  buildings,  except  in  villages, 
are  made  of  logs,  yet  there  are  the  customs  of  nobility  kept 
up.  You  see  a  two  story  house,  with  two  rooms  upon  each 
floor,  and  a  wide,  open,  airy  hall  between.  One  of  the 
lower  rooms  is  a  parlor,  the  other  is  a  nursery,  sleeping,  and 
an  eating  room.  Around  this  log  mansion  are  a  cluster  of 
log  cabins,  the  habitations  of  slaves.  Open,  frank  hospi- 
tality characterizes  the  Kentuckian,  which  is  pleasing  io 
a  stranger.  1  offered  a  lady  in  one  of  these  mansions  some 
tracts,  which  she  at  first  declined  with  the  enquiry,  *'  Do 
you  think  we  are  heathen  ?"  **  No,  madam,  for  the  heathen 
cannot  read ;  but  tracts  contain  much  that  is  interasting 


■■■  ■:  .if 


:•',;■:  n 


'■  'i^ 

«   •-'.*• 


J.X- 


l:::'rn 


so 


PRAIRIES  ON  FIRE. 


!■: 


to  all  classes  of  people,  and  after  they  are  read,  they  can 
be  circulated  among  those  who  may  not  be  well  supplied 
with  books."  I  saw  but  a  very  few  houses  of  worship  ex- 
cept in  villages.  .a..  /  y  j.^v 
Passed,  on  the  first  of  April,  out  of  the  waters  of  the 
Ohio  into  those  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Ohio  spreads  out 
into  a  narrow  sea  and  meets  the  Mississippi  in  the  same 
form.  Both  appear  to  expand  themselves  into  their  most 
majestic  forms,  as  though  each  was  making  an  effort  to 
claim  the  superiority ;  and  when  joined,  they  move  on  with 
united  grandeur.  We  should  expect,  at  the  confluence  of 
these  two  rivers,  to  find  a  business-going  village,  but  instead 
of  such  a  place,  there  is  only  a  whiskey-selling  tavern, 
around  which  are  a  few  miserable  huts.  s  \i,  iia*i  *  <t.4'. 
.si;  To-day,  a  boy  ten  or  twelve  years  old,  playing  about  the 
machinery  of  the  boat,  was  caught  in  it  by  the  leg,  and 
had  he  not  been  immediately  seized  and  extricated  by  two 
men  standing  by,  he  must  have  been  drawn  wholly  in  and 
crushed  to  pieces.  The  bones  were  not  broken,  but  the 
calf  of  the  leg  was  distressingly  mangled.  There  being 
no  surgeon  on  board,  I  officiated  in  dressing  his  wounds. 
•(►^  Passed,  on  the  second.  Point  Girardou,  fifty  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  upon  a 
bluflT  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi.  It  has  a  fine 
prospect  of  the  river,  and  might,  under  the  hand  of  indus- 
try, become  a  desirable  place  ;  but  the  French  Catholics  are 
not  an  enterprising  people,  and  it  has  the  appearance  of  de- 
cay. We  moved  but  slowly  against  the  wind  and  current. 
Witnessed  this  evening  a  very  pleasing  scene,  the  fires  of  the 
prairies  coming  over  the  bluff's.  The  bluffs  are  two  hun- 
dred feet  high,  and  extend  one  or  two  miles  along  the  river. 
At  a  considerable  distance  they  looked  like  an  illuminated 
city,  but  as  we  approached  and  had  a  nearer  view,  the  illu- 
sion was  dissipated.  The  fires  had  got  nearly  over  the 
bluffls,  and  curtained  them  with  a  moderately  ascending 


blaze,! 
the  n 
watei 
and  g^ 

MaJ 
GenevI 
river 
Frencl 
part  fij 
long  s| 
would 
turning 
their  o^ 
Theyo 
to  the 
say,  tha 
but  tha 
the  shoi 
reasonii 
ough-go 

To-dj 
the  wesi 
It  is  all 
only  a  i 
shot-toM 
considei 
wliich  i 
to  distal 

In  tri 
few  bool 
Some  nc 
tious  ch 
rivers  ai 
of  their 
gave  gn 


11,; 
it 


Jill' 


ST.  OENBYUBVB— OLD  CUSTOK. 


21 


iiey  can 
supplied 
ship  ex. 


3  of  the 
!ads  out 
he  same 
jir  most 
sffort  to 
on  with 
lence  of 
t  instead 

tavern, 
■  '"if^i 
bout  the 
leg,  and 
I  by  two 
Y  in  and 

but  the 
e  being 
unds. 

s  above 

upon  a 
a  fine 
indus< 

lies  are 

e  of  de- 

urrent. 

s  of  the 
o  hun< 

|e  river, 
inated 

he  illu- 
er  the 

lending 


blaze,  drawn  up  on  the  bluffs  and  let  down  in  festoons  in 
the  ravines ;  and  the  counter  part  reflected  from  the  smooth 
waters  of  the  broad  Mississippi,  added  much  to  the  beauty 
and  grandeur  of  the  prospect.      ■  -  ;  jv    ^ 

Made  a  short  stay  on  the  third,  at  the  landing  of  St.. 
Genevieve.  The  village  is  situated  a  mile  back  from  the 
river  on  the  west  side.  It  is  inhabited  almost  entirely  by 
French,  who,  in  their  customs  and  manners,  are  slow  to  de^ 
part  from  those  established  by  their  forefathers,  who  have 
long  since  passed  away.  To  adopt  new  improvements,, 
would  be  a  step  next  to  giving  up  their  catholic  religion  and 
turning  infidek  It  is  amusing  to  see  the  manner  they  yoke 
their  oxen,  and  to  learn  the  reason  they  assign  for  so  doing.. 
The  yoke  is  composed  of  a  straight  piece  of  wood,  fastened 
to  the  back  side  of  the  horns  by  straps  of  leather.  They 
say,  that  in  this  way,  they  save  the  whole  power  of  the  ox ; 
but  that  the  yoke,  bowed  to  the  neck,  and  drawn  back  ta 
the  shoulder,  loses  the  power  of  the  head  and  neck.  Their 
reasoning  may  satisfy  themselves,  but  would  not  the  thor> 
ough-going  New  England  farmer.  '      .    ; 

To.day  had  a  view  of  Herculaneum,  which  is  situated  on 
the  west  side  of  the  river,  thirty-five  miles  below  St.  Louis« 
It  is  almost  surrounded  by  high  precipitous  hills,  having 
only  a  narrow  space  for  the  village.  There  are  here  several 
shot-towers,  placed  on  the  brink  of  high  bluffs,  in  which 
considerable  business  is  done.  Large  quantities  of  lead, 
wliich  is  brought  from  the  mines,,  are  sold  and  carried 
to  distant  markets. 

In  traveUing  upon  these  waters,  it  is  painful  to  see  how 
few  books  of  any  value  there  are  on  board  the  steam-boats. 
Some  novels  are  found,  but  the  most  of  them  are  of  a  licen- 
tious  character.  Thousands  of  those  who  navigate  these 
rivers  are  going  to  the  judgment  regardless  of  the  interests 
of  their  souls,  and  almost  entirely  destitute  of  the  bible.  It 
gave  great  offence  to  many,  that  we  should  have  religious 


mm 


$M 


h 


■•*ir  ■ 


I'4> 
ill'.' 


22 


GAMBLING. 


worship  in  the  ladies'  cabin,  as  we  did  by  invitation. — 
Complaints  of  obtrusion  were  made — "  Obtruding  religion 
— no  place  for  such  things."  But  profanity  and  gambling 
are  no  obtrusion ;  they  are  always  in  time  and  always  in 
place.  Christians  must  keep  religion  out  of  sight  and 
hearing,  but  the  wicked  may  be  as  open  and  obtrusive  as  they 
please.  They  would  not  have  christians  cast  their  pearls 
before  swine.  Gambling  is  practised  on  board  the  steam- 
boats upon  these  waters  to  a  very  great  extent.  It  is  a  fa- 
vorite amusement  with  those  whose  minds  are  not  suffi- 
ciently cultivated  to  find  satisfaction  in  reading,  or  intelli- 
gent conversation.  The  number  of  black-legs  who  make 
gambling  their  business  of  life  is  great,  and  they  are  adepts 
in  their  profession.  Their  success  depends  very  much  upon 
their  skill  in  cheating,  and  to  decoy  the  inexperienced.* 
Arrived  in  the  evening  of  the  fourth  at  St.  Louis.     This 


*   THE   GAMBLERS     CONSTITUTION. 

Whereas  it  is  admitted  by  political  economists  and  by  some  wealthy 
individuals,  that  employment  of  labor,  even  upon  things  which  in  them- 
selves are  useless,  is  praiseworthy,  in  that  it  furnishes  employment  for 
multitudes ; — and  whereas  this  country  is  so  fruitful,  that  should  all  be 
employed  in  productive  pursuits,  there  would  be  more  than  a  supply  for 
our  markets ;  and  whereas  we  would  be  as  great  philanthropists  as  tnose 
who  advocate  useless  labor  to  give  employment  to  the  lower  classes  of 
community,  and  to  keep  up  our  markets ;  therefore  resolved,  that  we, 
whose  names  are  hereunto  subscribed,  do  form  ourselves  into  a  society 
under  the  following  constitution,  viz. 

Article  I.  This  society  shall  be  called  the  Fraternal  Gambling  Society. 

Article  II.  This  society  shall  be  composed  of  all  shrewd  or  silly  men, 
who,  to  the  fortunes  of  chance,  guided  by  cunning  deceit,  are  willing  to 
risk  their  money  and  spend  their  time  in  getting  rich  by  short  methods. 

Article  III.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  this  society  to  spend  their  time  in 

?:ambling  in  any  such  way  as  they  may  choose;  by  cards,  dice,  billiards, 
otieries,  horse  racing,  &c.  &c. 

Article  IV.  It  shall  be  lawful  and  honorable  for  any  person  belonging 
to  this  society,  to  cheat  and  defraud  as  much  as  he  pleases,  provided  al- 
ways, he  conforms  to  mies  of  honor  and  regulation^,  specified  in  the  by- 
laws which  may  be  made  from  time  to  time. 

Article  V.  Any  person  may  withdraw  from  this  society  when  he  has 
lost  all,  to  try  his  fortune  in  theft,  highway  robbery,  or  to  commit  suicide ; 
but  not  to  enter  upon  any  labor  which  might  overstock  our  markets,  un- 
der the  penalty  of  receiving  the  scorn  and  ridicule  of  all  whose  interest 
it  is  to  promote  gambling ;  for  it  is  a  principle  with  us  to  grow  rich  by 
■  taking  from  each  other's  pockets,  or  in  any  way  except  productive  labor. 


grees 
Albam 
mile  fr 
tended 
are  ope 
people 
Rive, 
the  plac 
violcntl 
were  ki 
zen  can 
pi  river 
damage 
of  less 
one,  is, 
bottom  1 
came  fr 
General 
novel  thi 
In  th( 
are  nan 
their  pre 
from  the 
tion,  wi 
for  theii 
vorite  a 
object,  ^ 
As  gam 
rich,  en 
Drunker 
ists,  the 


.  BT.  LOUIS. 


m 


tation. — 
r  religion 
gambling 
ilways  in 
light  and 
^e  as  they 
eir  pearls 
tie  steam- 
It  is  a  fa- 
not   suffi- 
or  intelli- 
who  make 
ire  adepts 
tiuch  upon 
need.* 
lis.     This 


me  wealthy 
ch  in  them- 
iloyment  for 
hould  all  be 
la  supply  for 
as  those 
r  classes  of 
d,  that  we, 
ito  a  society 

ling  Society. 
]r  silly  men, 
re  willing  to 
Irt  methods. 
Iheir  time  in 
;e,  billiards, 

belonging 

Kovidea  al- 

in  the  by- 

L  he  has 
lit  suicide ; 

[arkets,  un- 
)se  interest 

Jow  rich  by 
jtive  labor. 


is  a  flourishing  business  place,  situated  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Mississippi,  two  hundred  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio,  and  twenty  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  in 
latitude  88  degrees  30  minutes  north,  and  longitude  89  de- 
grees 36  minutes  west.     St.  Louis  very  much  resembles 
Albany,  N.  Y.     TUa  ground    iscends  for  about  a  half  a 
mile  from  the  rivor,  and  tli(  n  spreads  out  into  a  widely  ex- 
tended plain,  partly  covered  with  slirubbery,  back  of  which 
are  open  prairies.     This  place  was  settled  by  some  French 
people  before  the  year  1765.     Tiiat  year  St.  Auge  De  Belle 
Rive,  with  a  company  from  Fort  Charles,  took  possession  of 
the  place.     On  the  4th  of  May,  1780,  the  inhabitants  were 
violently  attacked  by  about  one  thousand  Indians,  and  many 
were  killed.     The  same  year  the  first  American  born  citi- 
zen came  into  this  place.     In  the  year  1785,  the  Mississip- 
pi river  rose  twenty  feet  higher  than  usual,  and  did  much 
damage.     This  river  does  not  rise  so  high  usually  as  those 
of  less  extent ;  and  one  reason,  and  probably  the  principal 
one,  is,  on  account  of  its  spreading  over  widely  extended 
bottom  lands.     In  1792  the  first  honey  bees  ever  known  here 
came  from  the  east.     In  1814,  the  first  steam-boat,  the 
General  Pike,  ascended  this  river  to  this  place.     It  was  a 
novel  thing,  and  excited  great  admiration.  i 

In  the  parts  of  the  town  built  by  the  French,  the  streets 
are  narrow.  This  may  have  been  done  to  accommodate 
their  propensity  to  be  sociable,  so  as  to  enable  them  to  talk 
from  the  windows  across  the  streets.  The  French  popula- 
tion, with  a  few  exceptions,  are  Roman  Catholics,  noted 
for  their  indolence  and  dissipation.  Gambling  is  their  fa- 
vorite amusement ;  and  they  have  houses  devoted  to  this 
object,  with  signs  up,  like  the  signs  of  whiskey  venders. 
As  gambling  does  not  increase  wealth,  there  are  but  a  few 
rich,  enterprising  men  among  the  French  population. — 
Drunkenness  is  not  common  here,  and  to  do  away  what  ex- 
ists, the  temperance  cause  is  doing  much  good.    Eastern 


■■I '  ■  •' "'' ' 


1    '!«?     'VV 


■Sv 
',.''"  L 

.  <   .■     :,.t 

■  ■-.-.■  ^ft 


a.  f  '~  '  '  jSj4 


124 


DR.  WHITMAN. 


.-!t|:. 


jM^r 


■enterprise  and  influence  is  gaining  ground  since  the  town 
has  been  brought  under  the  laws  of  the  United  States ;  and 
a  new  impulse  is  given  to  business.  This  is  the  central 
place  in  the  west  for  the  fur  trade,  which  is  carried  on  by 
the  American  Fur  Company  to  a  considerable  extent ;  and 
also  much  business  is  done  in  lead  which  comes  from  Gale- 
A  great  number  of  steam-boats  and  other  water  craft 


na 


1.::. 


of  various  descriptions  and  destinations,  are  seen  here  at 
almost  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Adventurers,  of  almost 
every  description  of  character  and  nation,  come  here,  such 
as  trappers,  hunters,  miners,  and  emigrants,  as  to  a  starting 
point,  to  go  into  the  still  far  west,  many  of  whom  seek  a 
miserable  fortune  in  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  local 
situation  of  this  town  is  such,  that  it  will  undoubtedly  con- 
tinue to  be  one  of  the  first  places  for  trade  in  the  great  val- 
ley of  the  Mississippi.  There  are  five  houses  of  worship, 
four  protestant  and  one  Roman  Catholic.  The  catholic 
cathedral  is  built  of  stone,  and  is  a  large,  expensive  building. 
The  protestant  influence  is  increasing,  and  there  are  here 
many  active,  devoted  christians  who  exert  a  salutary  influ- 
ence upon  the  town  and  vicinity  around.  The  population 
is  flftcen  thousand. 

Found  Doct.  Marcus  Whitman  here,  who  is  appointed 
by  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Mis- 
sions to  be  my  associate.  He  came  through  the  central 
parts  of  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Illinois,  and  arrived  a  few  days 
before  me.  On  the  seventh  we  had  an  interview  with  Mr. 
Fontenelle,  who  takes  charge  of  the  caravan  sent  out  by 
the  American  Fur  Company.  The  caravan  goes  a  very 
little  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  for  the  purpose  of  car- 
rying out  goods  for  the  Indian  trade,  and  for  the  supply  of 
their  men  who  are  engaged  in  hunting  and  trapping  in  and 
about  the  mountains,  and  to  bring  back  the  furs  which  they 
liave  taken  during  the  year.  There  are  about  three  hun- 
dred men  constantly  employed  in  and  about  the  mountains, 


A  FIRE. 


25 


and  more  than  sixty  who  constitute  the  caravan.  With 
a  much  less  number  it  would  not  be  safe  to  perform  this 
journey,  as  there  are  hostile  tribes  of  Indians  on  the  way, 
viz.  the  Arickaras,  the  Crows,  and  Blackfeet.  Mr.  Fon- 
tenelle  kindly  offered  to  accommodate  us  with  such  advan- 
tages as  may  be  afforded  in  his  caravan.  We  found 
it  necessary  to  leave  this  place  to-day  for  Liberty,  which  is 
one  of  the  most  western  towns  in  the  United  States.  We 
were  very  busily  employed  in  making  preparation  for  the 
journey,  and  in  calling  upon  and  bidding  farewell  to  chris- 
tian friends.  There  was  a  fire  last  night  which  destroyed 
a  very  large  livery-stable,  in  which  we  lost  a  horse,  saddle, 
and  bridle.  The  old  cathedral  which  was  used  for  a  store- 
house, was  also  burnt,  and  in  it  a  very  large  quantity  of 
crockery. 


■■■i- 


.  ..r- 


,•  \ 


'   t 


;«>»' 


.il-^    > 


'.   . k ..•,  J  "1  ■ 


.n  *•  'i 


IV  ^  1 


•s: 


.V 


i>. 


■Si 


'■r' 


pi 

1     ■■*"'.    ' 


<!r; 


{ 


Fit 


f-tllj 


iilii 


ii! 


26 


ACCIDENT. 


CHAPTER  IL  ' 

Leave  St.  Louis  for  Liberty — passage  up  the  Missouri-^snagS'^a^walk 
on  shore — Jefferson  city — River  scenery — Steam-Boat  Siam — Sand 
bars — Lexington — Steam-Boat  disaster — Liberty — Navahoe  Indians 
— ride  to  Cantonment  of  Leavenworth— amusing  dialect— Caravan 
commence  their  journey — first  encampment — loway  Indiaff^^Black- 
snake  Hills — Nodaway  river — Elk— crossed  the  Neshnabotana — Rich 
soil— rapid  rise  of  the  north  branch  of  Neshnabotana — mode  of  living 
— mounds  of  the  west— crossing  of  the  Missouri— Be llevue—Miseion- 
aries.  ,   ,  . 

At  five  o'clock  P.  M.  went  on  board  the  steam-boat  St. 
Charles,  Capt.  Shellcross,  and  ascended  the  river  twenty 
miles;  anchored  at  the  confluence  of  the  Missouri  and 
Mississippi,  and  lay  by  for  the  night,  it  being  dangerous  to 
proceed  in  the  night,  on  account  of  the  many  snags  and  sand 
bars  in  the  Missouri. 

On  the  eighth,  proceeded  up  the  Missouri  by  rather  slow 
progress,  and  made  our  first  stop  at  St.  Charles,  which  is 
twenty  miles  above  the  confluence  of  this  river  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  the  same  distance  north-west  from  St.  Louis. 
Tliis  is  a  pleasantly  situated  village,  upon  the  north  side  of 
the  river.  The  country  around  is  interesting,  and  the  soil 
of  superior  quality.  An  enterprising  christian  population 
would  make  this  one  of  the  most  desirable  places  in  the 
west.  Soon  after  we  left  the  shore,  a  boy  six  years  old, 
fell  overboard.  The  current  being  swift,  and  the  boat  un- 
der full  way,  there  was  no  opportunity  to  save  him.  He 
was  seen  floating  a  short  time,  but  before  the  yawl  could 
be  loosed  from  its  fastening,  and  manned,  ho  sunk  and  was 
seen  no  more.  His  mother  was  a  widow,  and  with  her  family 
was  removing  from  Kentucky  to  Franklin,  Mo.  The  moth- 
er and  the  children  lamented  greatly  and  loudly. 


.1 


orr 

tell 

the 

us 

voyi 

whi( 

ing 

feet. 


JEFFERSON  CITY. 


27 


am — Sand 
le  Indians 
—Caravan 
ns^^Black- 
tana — Rich 
le  of  living 
I— Mission- 


boat  St. 
sr  twenty 
ouri  and 
gerous  to 
and  sand 

;her  slow 
which  is 
the  Mis- 
Louis, 
side  of 
the  soil 
pulation 
|s  in  the 
ars  old, 
oat  un- 
Ho 
1  could 
nd  was 
family 
c  moth- 


Near  the  middle  of  the  day,  on  the  ninth,  we  struck  a  snag 
or  rock,  so  deep  beneath  the  turbid  water,  that  we  could  not 
tell  which  it  was,  and  it  became  necessary  to  repair  one  of 
the  wheels  of  the  boat,  which  was  much  injured.  This  gave 
us  an  opportunity  to  go  on  shore.  Several  of  my  fellow 
voyagers  and  myself  ascended  one  of  those  high  bluff  f 
which  frequently  skirt  this  river.  This  was  done  by  climb- 
ing on  our  hands  and  feet  up  an  elevation  of  several  hundred 
feet.  Here  we  had  a  delightful  view  of  the  surrounding 
country,  with  its  intermingled  prairie  and  wood  land,  its 
cultivated  spots,  and  its  hills  and  dales.  But  in  attempting 
to  return,  a  new  difficulty  interposed.  I  said  we  ascended 
on  our  hands  and  feet — could  we  return  in  the  same  way  ? 
We  were  compelled,  by  descending  backwards,  to  use  much 
caution,  and  letting  ourselves  down  by  the  grass,  or  some- 
times by  a  shrub  or  tree,  and  assisting  each  other,  we  came 
safely  to  the  shore.  We  also  went  to  a  place,  some  distance 
below  this,  where  Lewis  and  Clark  lay  by  three  days,  wait- 
ing  a  better  state  of  water.  They  encamped  under  a  shelv- 
ing rock,  which  is  composed  of  white  quartose  sand  of  excel- 
lent quality  for  making  flint  glass,  equal  to  that  found  above 
Pittsburgh.  Saw  many  wild  turkeys  along  upon  the  unin- 
habited shores. 

Stopped,  on  the  11th,  at  Jefferson  city,  the  capital  of  the 
state.  It  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  upon  a 
high  eminence,  a  little  above  the  Osage  river.  It  has  a  great 
name  for  so  small  a  place.  The  state  house  is  of  a  size  which 
would  be  decent  for  &  small  academy ;  and  the  govern- 
or's house  would  do  very  well  for  a  common  farmer's  house 
in  the  country,  but  not  such  as  we  should  expect  for  a  gov- 
ernor in  Jefferson  City.  But  the  state  of  Missouri  is 
comparatively  new,  and  this  place  may  in  time  support  its 
name. 

Sabbath,  twelfth,  kept  in  my  state  room,  and  endeavored 
to  observe  the  day  according  to  the  commandment ;  thought 


h 


■  \ 


i-'F 


,:i  •  -I 


28 


SAND  BABS. 


.        V    M>» 


1  •  "     '• 


^     .. 


of  my  family,  and  imagined  I  could  see  them  in  the  morning 
in  the  sabbath  school ;  and  then  with  the  many  children  and 
teachers,  enter  the  sanctuary  to  enjoy  the  privileges  of 
public  divine  worship.  .  ^ 

Monday,  passed  Boonsville  and  Franklin,  small  villages 
which  have  a  country  of  rich  land  around  them,  and  when 
brought  under  good  cultivation,  these  villages  must  rise  in 
importance.  The  scenery  up  this  river  is  sufficiently  diver- 
sified to  excite  interest  and  to  charm.  The  trees  along  the 
shores  are  mostly  oak  and  cotton  wood,  with  some  hacberry 
and  buckeye.  The  soil  is  free  and  rich.  The  river  makes 
nothing  of  washing  away  and  forming  islands.  Sand  bars 
and  snags  are  so  common,  that,  by  becoming  accustomed  to 
them,  we  hardly  think  of  danger.  It  is  interesting  to  see 
how  easily  and  how  deep  the  trees  take  root  in  the  rich  soil 
along  this  river.  Frequently,  where  the  banks  are  washing 
away,  the  roots  of  the  trees  are  exposed  to  full  view,  and 
generally  there  is  only  a  large  central  root  descending  ten 
or  twelve  feet  with  small  ones  branching  out,  presenting  the 
appearance  of  an  inverted  cone. 

Found  the  steam-boat  Siam,  Capt.  L.  at  Chariton,  on 
board  of  which  the  St.  Charles  put  her  freight  and  passen- 
gers, and  returned ;  both  boats  having  so  far  discharged 
their  freight  that  one  could  proceed  with  what  was  remain- 
ing. Having  got  under  way,  the  boat  run  upon  a  sand  bar, 
which  gave  it  a  sudden  whirl  about,  apparently  threatening 
a  disaster,  but  the  quicksand  of  which  the  bar  was  compos- 
ed, soon  washed  away,  and  we  went  ahead  again.  Run- 
ning aground  in  this  river  is  a  very  diflTerent  thing  from 
what  it  would  be  in  most  waters ;  for  the  bars  are  so  gener- 
ally formed  of  quicksand,  that  in  most  instances  the  current 
around  the  boat  sets  all  clear. 

Soon  after  getting  under  way,  on  the  16th,  we  ran  upon  a 
bar  where  we  were  detained  tWo  and  a  half  hours,  and  so 
frequently  were  we  upon  bars,  that  we  made  only  five  miles 


e  morning 
ildren  and 
vileges  of 

11  villages 
and  when 
ist  rise  in 
itly  diver- 
along  the 
hacberry 
ver  makes 
^and  bars 
stomed  to 
ing  to  see 
3  rich  soil 
!  washing 
>^iew,  and 
tiding  ten 
ting  the 

riton,  on 
passen- 
charged 
remain, 
land  bar, 
atoning 
ompos. 
Run- 
g  from 
gener- 
current 

upon  a 
and  so 
miles 


A  CONTBAST. 

\ 

before  one  o'clock  P.  M.  Called  at  Lexington.  The  vil- 
lage is  pleasantly  situated  one  mile  back  from  the  landing, 
and  is  surrounded  by  a  fine  country.  We  made  only  about 
fifteen  miles  headway  to-day,  which  is  so  slow,  that  it  would 
be  more  pleasant  traveling  by  land ;  and  also  to  be  free 
from  imprisonment  with  such  shockingly  profane  swearers 
and  gamblers,  most  of  whom  are  intemperate. 

Nineteenth,  another  sabbath  on  board  the  steam-boat. 
How  great  a  contrast  to  the  sacredness  of  the  day  when  it 
is  enjoyed  in  the  christian  family  circle ;  or  in  the  sanctuary 
where  God  is  worshipped  in  the  great  congregation ;  or  in 
the  quiet,  unobtrusive  sabbath  school,  where  attentive  minds 
sit  down  to  study  the  word  of  God,  that  they  may  do  it ; 
and  where  the  teachers  are  heard  explaining  and  enforc- 
ing divine  truth  upon  the  young  and  tender  conscience. 

As  we  passed  along,  I  saw  many  children  standing  on  the 
banks  of  the  river.  I  thought  how  benevolent  persons  at 
the  east  had  desired  their  religious  instruction,  and  how 
much  had  been  done  for  the  enterprise ;  but  it  had  failed  to 
reach  these.  I  also  reflected  on  the  examples  of  infidelity 
and  vice  around  them,  by  which  they  are  educated  for  de- 
struction, and  endeavored  to  ask  the  Great  Benefactor  of 
all,  to  do  that  fcH*  them,  which  it  was  not  in  my  power  to  do. 
I  contrasted  in  my  mind  the  difference  between  kindred 
souls  in  sweet  communion  in  the  service  of  God  to-day,  and 
the  unrestrained  wickedness  of  ungodly  men,  which  my  eyes 
and  ears  were  witnessing,  and  said,  when  will  the  kingdoms 
of  this  world  become  the  kingdoms  of  our  Lord  and  his 
Christ. 

About  the  middle  of  the  day,  the  captain  and  his  men 
appeared  to  be  given  up  to  blind  infatuation.  The  Siam 
was  a  new,  well-built  boat,  had  four  boilers,  and  it  was  her 
first  season*  They  appeared  to  regard  no  bounds  in  raising 
and  applying  steam.     Such  was  the  power  under  which 


'    /    >  . .    ,•'14  : 

•I't'  *?(?  "X'i^'' 

■  '^y  .■■■"■  •''t^P 

■■'.":*  W<> 
■  •'-II 


-*;ri-l 

•  m 

••>fl 

1 


t 


*', 


30 


M0BM0N9* 


V'( 


she  labored,  that  she  more  than  trembled.  For  a  long  time 
I  expected  some  disaster — ^looked  at  the  captain  to  see  if  I 
could  discover  any  apprehensions  of  danger.  There  was 
no  want  of  evidence  that  there  was  a  free  use  of  ardent  spir- 
its. Soon  the  disaster  came,  less  extensive  than  I  feared ; 
the  main  shaft,  which  was  large  and  made  of  iron,  broke, 
and  all  was  over  as  to  her  going  any  farther. 

Monday,  20.  This  day  was  spent  in  endeavoring  to  find 
some  remedy  for  the  disaster,  but  all  to  no  purpose.  It 
only  remained  to  discharge  her  cargo  upon  the  wilderness 
shore,  let  her  passengers  shift  for  themselves,  and  return 
with  one  wheel  like  a  crippled  winged  fowl.  Two  miles 
above  us  lay  the  steam-boat  Nelson,  upon  a  sand  bar  high 
and  dry.  She  ran  aground  upon  the  sabbath,  and  being 
left  by  a  fresliet  in  the  river,  is  waiting  for  another  to 
take  it  off.  Our  captain  remarked  at  dinner  to-day,  that 
most  of  the  accidents,  which  happen  to  steam-boats,  take 
place  on  the  sabbath ;  and  that  he  did  not  believe  it  would 
be  long  before  they  would  not  run  on  that  day.  We  en- 
gaged a  man  to  take  us  in  a  wagon  to  Liberty,  and  towards 
evening  went  out  into  a  small  neighborhood  of  Mormons, 
where  we  lodged.  They  had  fled  from  Jackson  county,  which 
they  call  their  promised  land,  and  to  which  they  say  they 
shall  return.  They  are  a  poor,  deluded  people,  and  when 
they  speak  of  their  persecutions,  they  do  not  imitate  the  spirit 
of  our  Savior,  who^  when  he  was  reviled,  reviled  not  again 
and  when  he  suffered,  threatened  not. 

Rode  on  the  21st,  twelve  miles  to  Liberty,  through  a 
very  pleasant  and  fertile  country,  sparsely  inhabited,  well 
supplied  with  woods,  and  sufficiently  undulating  and  hilly  to 
render  it  healthy.  It  was  at  that  opening  season  of  the 
year,  when  nature,  arousing  itself  from  the  sleep  of  winter, 
appears  with  renovated  beauty.  Not  or.  \-  man,  but  flowers, 
and  trees,  and  birds,  seemed  to  enjoy  the  season  and  the 
scene.     I  was  much  charmed  with  the  wood  duck,  (A. 


ong  time 
)  see  if  I 
here  was 
ient  spif' 
I  feared ; 
in,  broke, 

ig  to  find 

pose.     It 

wilderness 

nd  return 

wo  miles 

bar  high 

ind  being 

lother  to 

day,  that 

>ats,  take 

1  it  would 

We  en- 

I  towards 

lormons, 

y,  which 

they 

d  when 

he  spirit 

ot  again 

[rough  a 
ted,  well 

hilly  to 
of  the 

winter, 
[flowers, 
land  the 

ik,  (A. 


LIBEBTT. 


n 


Sponsa)  which  here  were  numerous ;  the  variety  of  its  col- 
ors seemed  adapted  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  which  sur- 
rounded us.  And  the  sprightly  deer  did  not  seem  to  accel- 
erate its  movements  more  by  fear,  than  by  love  of  flight. 

Liberty  is  a  small  village,  situated  three  miles  north  of 
the  river,  and  is  the  county  town  of  Clay.  Has  a  court- 
house built  of  brick — several  stores,  which  do  considerable 
business,  a  rope-walk,  and  a  number  of  decent  dwelling 
houses. 

Continued  in  this  place  about  three  weeks,  waiting  for 
the  caravan  to  get  in  readiness*  At  this  place  it  forms — 
men,  horses  and  mules,  and  wagons,  are  collected  and  put 
in  readiness ;  and  from  this  place  commences  the  long  jour- 
ney for  the  west.  While  we  remained  here,  we  had  an 
opportunity  to  collect  much  information  from  those  who 
have  been  to  and  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  regard  to 
the  country,  mode  of  traveling,  and  concerning  the  various 
Indian  tribes  on  the  way.  Saw  Capt.  Ford  and  Lieut.  Stein 
from  Fort  Leavenworth.  They  are  both  professors  of  reli- 
gion, and  appear  to  be  well  acquainted  with  the  Indian  coun- 
try. Lieut.  S.  has  been  much  among  the  Indians,  was 
out  with  the  Dragoons  the  last  year — was  among  the  Paw- 
nee Picts ;  gives  a  very  favorable  account  of  them,  and 
thinks  the  way  is  prepared  to  establish  a  mission  among 
them  with  fair  prospects  of  success.  He  also  thinks  the 
way  is  prepared,  or  is  preparing,  for  a  mission  among  the 
Camanches,  who  heretofore  have  been  hostile,  but  now  wish 
for  peace  and  trade  with  the  Americans.  Saw  also  a  Mr. 
Vaun  of  this  place,  a  baptist  professor,  who  has  made  two 
trips  to  Santa  Fe,  and  has  resided  two.  years  in  that  place. 
He  gives  a  very  favorable  account  of  the  Navohoes,  a  tribe 
who  number  about  two  thousand  warriors.  Their  country 
lies  between  the  head  waters  of  the  Rio  Del  Norte  and  tlie 
eastern  branches  of  Rio  Colorado.  They  carry  on  agricuU 
ture  to  a  very  considerable  extent ;  have  large  herds  of  cat- 


pi 


iv  .".r',.,Trv»i 


i<yfi  ■ 


■'l.;>.fK..;:i«L. 


'■'■;,H  ^'■:^•-^^.• 

,I.V  *.•".    t^  < 


■  r 


■ .  1  ■ 


■     I  ■ 


;^. 


:32 


CANTONMENT  LEAVENWORTH. 


'  i 


r  I 

M  ■ 


tie  andliorses,  and  flocks  of  sheep  ;  and  do  much  in  domes, 
•tic  manufactures ;  and  have  houses  of  good  construction. 
They  are  friendly  to  the  Americans,  but  not  to  the  Span, 
iards.  Mr.  V.  thinks  they  would  i-eadily  receive  protestant 
•missionaries,  and  would  prefer  them  to  Roman  Catholics, 
because  of  their  hostility  to  the  Spaniards.  He  also  speaks 
well  of  the  Paches,  or  Apaches,  a  small  tribe  on  the  Del 
Norte  towards  old  Mexico.  These  have  been  at  war  three 
years  with  the  Spaniards. 

Saturday,  May  9th,  rode  twenty-six  miles  to  Canton- 
ment Leavenworth,  which  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of 
ihe  Missouri  river,  nearly  twenty  miles  out  of  the  United 
States.  The  way  is  through  a  fertile  section  of  country, 
{)art  of  the  distance  is  an  open  prairie,  other  parts  are  hand- 
^somely  wooded,  and  all  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  I  had 
An  introduction  to  several  of  the  officers,  and  put  up  at 
liieut.  S's.  an  agreeable  and  religious  family. 

I  preached  three  times  on  the  sabbath,  and  most  of 
the  people  of  the  garrison  assembled,  and  gave  good  at- 
tention. There  are  a  very  considerable  number  of  professors 
of  religion  attached  to  this  station,  but  they  have  no  chap, 
lain  to  teach  and  lead  them  in  their  devotions,  which  is  a 
deficiency  in  our  military  establishments.  Col.  Dodge  and 
some  of  the  other  officers  appear  disposed  to  maintain  good 
order,  and  I  should  think  they  exert  a  salutary  influence. 
I  had  an  opportunity,  before  I  returned  to  Liberty,  to  take 
a  view  of  the  fort  and  adjacent  country.  There  is  much 
here  to  captivate.  The  buildings  of  the  Fort  are  situated 
within  an  inclosure  around  a  large,  beautiful  square,  which 
is  covered  with  green  grass,  and  adorned  with  shade  trees. 
The  whole  is  on  an  elevation  of  a  few  hundred,  feet,. and  has 
an  interesting  prospect  of  the  majestic  river  flowing  on  si- 
lently below.  The  fertile  country  around  presents  a  wide 
and  fine  prospect,  and  when  settled  by  an  industrious  popu. 
lation,  will  equal  the  most  favored  parts  of  the  earth. 


in 


'!»^\]!r:-l^«* 


SINGVLAH  VIEWS. 


33i 


Liberty,  and  the  country  around,  is  inhabited  by  people  of 
considerable  enterprise,  and  when  it  shall  be  brought  under 
christian  influence,  there  will  be  but  a  few  places  more  in- 
viting. There  is  but  one  presbyterian  minister  in  this 
county,  Rev.  J.  S,  Y.  a  man  of  talents  and  very  respecta- 
ble attainments,  and  who  is  exerting  a  good  influence.  The 
baptists  in  this  section  of  country  are  unlike  those  of  the 
east.  They  are  opposed  to  the  benevolent  operations  of  the 
day.  Elder  H.  the  pastor  of  the  church  in  this  place,  in- 
vited Rev.  Mr.  Merril,  a  baptist  missionary,  located  among 
the  Otoe  Indians  of  the  Platte,  and  myself,  to  preach  for  him 
the  first  sabbath  after  our  arrival.  His  people  objected,  for 
fear  Mr.  Merril  would  say  something  about  the  cause  of 
temperance,  or  missionary  eflTorts,  and  Elder  H.  had  to 
withdraw  his  invitation.  They  profess  to  act  from  chris- 
tian principles  in  refusing  to  give  their  minister  any  thing 
for  support,  lest  they  should  make  him  a  hireling. 

It  is  amusing  to  observe  the  provincialisms  which  are 
common  in  this  part  of  the  country.  If  a  person  intends 
to  commence  a  journey  some  time  in  the  month,  for  instance, 
in  May  ;  he  says,  "  I  am  going  in  all  the  month  of  May." 
For  a  large  assembly  of  people,  they  say,  "  a  smart  sprinkle 
of  people."  The  word  "  balance,"  comes  into  almost  every 
transaction — "  will  you  not  have  a  dessert  for  the  balance  of 
your  dinner  ?" — "  to  make  out  the  balance  of  his  night's  rest, 
he  slept  until  eight  in  the  morning."  If  your  baggage  is 
to  be  carried,  it  will  be  asked,  "  shall  I  tote  your  plunder  ?" 
This  use  of  the  word  plunder,  is  said  to  have  originated  in 
the  early  predatory  habits  of  the  borderers.  They  also 
speak  of  a  "  mighty  pleasant  day" — "  a  mighty  beautiful 
flower" — "  mighty  weak."  A  gentleman,  with  whom  I 
formed  some  acquaintance,  invited  me,  when  I  should  make 
"  an  outing"  for  exercise,  to  call  at  his  house  ;  for  his  fam- 
ily  would  be  "  mighty  glad"  to  see  me. 

During  our  continuance  in  this  place,  we  were  hospitably 


Im 

''1**    V  ■■;*'*^-.iki 

•1'.'  '??/;•< 'jij-v 

ipi, 


^3^1^^:y'-.i^"' 


,  - '  ■  \  ■■■■■  t- 


.» 


■-■«« 


■y 


m 


ij  i:  :fi  ;  ■    -l  ■ 


34 


JOURNEY  RESUMED. 


entertained  at  the  house  of  J,  B.  Esq.  one  of  the  judges  of 
the  county  court.  We  felt  under  many  obhgations  to  him 
and  Mrs.  B.  not  only  for  their  liberality,  but  also  for  the 
privilege  of  retirement  in  so  kind  and  intelligent  a  family. 
Nor  would  we  be  unmindful  of  the  hospitality  shown  us  by 
Rev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Y. 

May  fifteenth,  all  things  bein^  in  readiness  we  com. 
menced  our  journey  for  Council  Bluffs,  directing  our  course 
north-west.  We  did  not  get  to-day  beyond  the  boundaries 
of  the  United  States,  and  for  the  last  time,  for  a  long  period 
to  come,  1  lodged  in  the  houfie  of  a  civilized  family. 

Sixteenth,  traveled  to-day  twenty  miles,  which  brought  us 
beyond  the  limits  of  civilization,  and  into  the  Indian  coun- 
try. Encamped  on  a  prairie  surrounded  with  wood.  The 
sensations  excited  by  the  circumsta/ices  of  our  situation 
were  peculiar,  and  such  as  I  had  not  iKjfore  felt : — in  a  wil. 
derness,  inhabited  by  unseen  savages  and  wild  beasts,  en. 
gaged  in  setting  our  tent,  preparing  supper  with  only  a  few 
articles  of  furniture,  the  ground  for  our  chairs,  table,  and 
bed.  But  all  was  conducted  in  good  style ;  for  I  would  not 
dispense  with  attention  t  >  decencies,  because  beyond  the 
'boundaries  of  civilization  ;  and  having  adjusted  every  thing 
in  good  order,  and  offered  up  our  evening  devotions,  we  re 
iired  to  rest.  But  how  to  adjust  all  the  anxieties  and  feel 
ings  of  the  mind,  so  as  to  obtain  the  desired  repose,  was  aj 
more  difficult  task. 

On  the  17th,  crossed  over  the  east,  or  little,  Platte,  which 
is  a  very  considerable  river,  and  spent  the  sabbath  with  Mr. 
Gilmore,  a  methodic  professor,  and  governmental  black- 
smith for  the  loway  Indians.  Saw  many  Indians  of  the 
loway,  Sioux,  and  Fox  tribes.  Among  these  a  Fox  Indian 
and  his  wife  were  noble-looking  persons,  having  their  faces 
^painted,  the  man's  entirely,  and  the  woman's  in  stripes,  with 
/unmixed  vermilion.     They  felt  too  important  to  be  seen 


I!  i 


INDIAN  TRIBES. 


IS- 


IS. 


« 1 


e  judges  ofl 
ions  to  him  I 
also  for  the 
it  a  family.  1 
lown  us  by 

s  we  com.j 

T  our  course 

boundaries 


noticing  what  was  transpiring  around/and  seemed  to  tUnk 
themselves  the  only  objects  to  be  noticed.  Here  is  an  ex- 
cellent fertile  tract  of  country,  and  nothing  discouraging 
for  a  missionary  station,  except  the  contaminating  influence 
of  vicious  white  men.  They  wish  to  cultivate  their  land, 
j)robably  more  from  necessity  than  on  any  other  account ; 
for  their  game  is  mostly  gone.  One  of  them  came  to  Mr. 
G.  to  get  some  ploughs,  and  remarked,  "it  is  hard  work  to 
dig  up  our  ground  for  corn  by  hand."     The  Sioux  here  are 


long  period  B^^'^y  ^  small  band  who  would  not  join  Black  Hawk  in  his 


aily. 

1  brought  us 
ndian  coun. 
vood.  The 
ur  situation 


war  against  the  United  States,  and  who  are  now  afraid  to 
return  to  their  own  country.  The  condition  of  these  Indi- 
ans is  becoming  more  and  more  wretched ;  for  while  they 
have  not  the  knowledge,  the  means,  nor  much  of  the  inclina. 
tion,  necessary  to  cultivate  their  lands  advantageously,  they 

. jjj  ^  wil-B^ave  an  insatiable  thirst  for  ardent  spirits;  and  there  are 

beasts  en-B^^^^g^  ^^  unprincipled  men  on  our  frontiers,  who,  for  the 
1  only  a  few  ■  sake  of  gain,  will  supply  them  with  the  means  of  drunkeness 
table,  and| and  destruction. 

On  Monday,  rode  only  twelve  miles  to  Blacksnake  Hills. 
Left  Mr.  G.  with  kind  feelings,  and  shall  gratefully  remem- 
ber his  hospitality.  At  Blacksnake  Hills,  Mr.  Rubedoux 
has  a  trading  post,  and  an  uncommonly  fine  farming  estab- 
lishment on  the  Missouri  river.  His  buildings  are  on  a 
small  rise  of  land,  having  a  delightful  prospect  in  front  of 
more  than  a  thousand  acres  of  open  bottom  land,  lying 
along  down  the  river ;  and  hills  on  the  north  and  east  par- 
tially covered  with  woods.  What  has  not  nature  wrought 
without  the  labor  of  man  ?  The  herds  of  cattle,  and  other 
domestic  animals,  have  as  wide  a  range  as  they  choose,  and 
fences  are  only  necessary  to  prepare  fields  for  cuftivation* 

The  Indians  here  have  a  new  mode  of  disposing  of  their 
dead.  A  scaffold  is  raised  about  eight  feet  high,  upon  which 
the  dead  are  placed  in  rudely-constructed  coffins  overspread 
with  skins. 


I  would  not 
beyond  the 
every  thing 
ions,  we  re- 
es  and  feel- 
pose,  was  a 

latte,  which 

fh  with  Mr. 

Intal  black 
s  of  the 
•'ox  Indian 
their  faces 

[tripes,  with 
to  be  scon 


■■1^;  ^V  •'^il  *■ 
fS. 'fit  ■■*>!*  ■■, 

y  ■  ifiV 


'Hii 


;;»^ 


>      >R 


\\w 


36 


CROSSING  THE  NODAWAY. 


m 


11  ■  m. 


I  preferred  encamping  out  to  sleeping  in  the  house,  where 
I  might  have  been  subjected  to  many  kinds  of  annoyances. 
Obtained  a  good  supply  of  milk. 

For  several  days  nothing  special  occurred.  On  the 
twenty-second,  we  crossed  the  Nodaway  river  with  a  raft ; 
to  construct  which,  and  get  all  things  over,  took  most  of  the 
day.  To  construct  a  raft,  we  collect  a  number  of  dry  logs, 
fasten  them  together,  side  by  side,  with  barks  stripped  from 
elm  trees ;  some  few  men  swim  across  the  river,  taking  with 
them  one  end  of  a  rope,  while  the  other  end  is  fastened  to 
the  raft ;  it  is  then  shoved  off,  the  men  upon  the  other 
«ide  of  the  river  pulling  upon  the  rope.  The  raft  is  gener- 
ally drifted  considerably  down  stream  before  it  is  brought  to 
land  upon  the  opposite  shore.  In  this  manner  they  cross- 
ed, and  re-crossed,  until  the  baggage  was  carried  over. 
Then  follows  the  swimming  over  of  the  horses,  which  is 
attended  with  noise  enough — ^hallooing  of  men,  snorting  of 
the  horses,  and  throwing  sticks  and  stones  to  prevent  them, 
after  having  gone  part  of  the  way  over,  from  returning. 

We  saw  many  elk,  but  they  were  too  wary  to  be  ap- 
proached and  too  fleet  to  be  chased,  and  our  hunters  were 
not  sufficiently  successful  to  obtain  any.  They  are  very 
large,  and  when  their  horns  are  on,  make  a  very  majestic 
appearance.  We  frequently  found  their  horns  on  the  prai- 
rie, some  of  which  were  four  feet  long,  with  large  wide- 
spreading  branches. 

Sabbath,  twenty-fourth,  passed  over  a  brook  near  which 
ive  had  encamped  the  evening  before,  and  remained  for  the 
day,  while  the  caravan  went  on;  The  movements  of  the 
caravan  are  so  slow,  that  we  felt  confident  we  could  over- 
take them  without  any  difficulty,  and  there  being  no  danger 
from  hostile  Indians,  we  considered  it  our  duty  to  rest  on  this 
holy  day.  The  day  was  very  warm  for  May,  the  thermom. 
<eter  standing,  at  two  in  the  afternoon,  atB8^ 

Monday,  twenty-fifth,  overtook  the  caravan  before  night. 


CR0SS1K6  THE  NESHNABOTANA. 


137 


Crossed  the  south  branch  of  the  Neshnabotana  on  a  raft. 
Some  of  the  men  of  the  caravan,  if  not  all,  were  much  dis- 
pleased, because  we  did  not  travel  with  them  on  the  sabbath. 
To  express  their  displeasure,  they  cut  some  of  the  barks, 
with  which  the  raft  they  had  made  was  bound  together,  and 
set  it  adrift.  Providentially  it  did  not  drift  far  before  it 
lodged  against  a  tree,  and,  witliout  much  loss  of  time,  we 
repaired  it  and  passed  over.  * 

On  the  twenty-sixth,  came  to  the  main  branch  of  the 
Neshnabotana,  and  commenced  making  a  raft,  the  finishing 
of  which  and  crossing  took  most  of  the  following  day.  The 
soil  of  this  part  of  the  country  is  rich,  and  the  grass  for  our 
horses  excellent ;  but  there  are  none  here  to  till  the  ground, 
nor  to  gather  in  the  ten  thousand  tons  of  hay,  which  might 
be  made  from  the  spontaneous  growth.  This  part  of  the 
country  does  not  yet  answer  the  end  for  which  it  was  cre- 
ated. The  time  will  come,  when  a  dense  population  will 
cover  this  country,  who  will  render  the  sacrifice  of  pray- 
er and  praise  to  our  God. 

On  the  28th,  we  rode  eleven  miles  and  came  to  the  north 
branch  of  the  N.  After  we  had  made  a  raft,  we  had  a  very 
difficult  time  of  crossing.  The  water  was  continually  and 
rapidly  rising,  and  before  we  finished  crossing,  the  banks 
were  overflowed  to  considerable  depth ;  and  the  alluvial  soil 
was  rendered  too  soft  to  sustain  our  horses,  and  they  sunk 
so  deep  that  they  could  not  get  along.  After  searching  for 
a  long  time,  a  place  was  found  sufficiently  hard  to  bear  up 
our  animals  when  unloaded.  We  had  to  carry  our  baggage 
upon  our  shoulders  about  fifteen  rods,  part  of  the  way  in 
water  mid  deep,  going  forward  and  returning,  until  all  was 
carried  to  better  ground ;  and  then  we  had  to  ride  one  mile 
to  the  dry  prairie  in  water  one  and  two  feet  deep.  We  re- 
joiced to  find  ourselves  once  more  on  firm  footing.  En- 
camped by  a  stream  of  clear  water,  which  is  rare  in  this 

part  of  the  country,  and  especially  at  this  season  of  the 
4 


•    'V,;.  *<V     V'V'-    .■ 

;   I.     .  ■  .',  -v  •• 


m 


■  "^h\ 

'•■  '.v:>?I 

■  m 


"3-' 


•r-r. 


38 


MOUNDS  OP  THE  WEST. 


'% 


il:.i 


year.  The  waters  of  all  this  portion  of  country,  especially 
of  the  Missouri  river  and  its  large  tributary  streams,  are 
very  turbid,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  soil  over  which  they 
pass.  A  pail  full  of  water,  standing  half  an  hour  at  the 
seasons  of  freshets,  will  deposit  three  eighths  of  an  inch  of 
sediment ;  and  yet  the  water,  when  settled,  appears  to  be  of 
good  quality  and  healthy. 

Our  mode  of  living,  from  day  to  day,  had  already  neces- 
sarily  become  uniform.  Dry  bread  and  bacon  constituted 
our  breakfast,  dinner,  and  supp?r.  Our  bacon  we  cooked, 
when  we  could  obtain  wood  for  fire ,  but  when  "  out  of  sight 
of  land,"  that  is,  when  nothing  but  green  grass  could  be  seen, 
we  eat  our  bacon  without  cooking.  A  very  few  of  the  sim- 
plest articles  of  furniture  were  sufficient  for  our  culinary 
purposes.  The  real  wants  of  life  are  few,  artificial  ones 
are  numerous. 

Thirtieth,  drew  near  to  Council  Blufis,  and  passed  down 
from  the  high  rolling  prairie,  through  a  vale  two  or  three 
miles  long,  and  a  half  mile  wide,  into  the  rich  alluvial,  and 
widely  extended  valley  of  the  Missouri,  through  a  section  of 
country  of  uncommonly  interesting  scenery.  The  mounds, 
which  some  have  called  the  work  of  unknown  generations 
of  men,  were  scattered  here  in  all  varieties  of  forms  and 
magnitudes  ;  and  thousands  in  number,  and  perhaps  1  may 
say  ten  thousands.  Some  of  these  mounds  were  conical, 
some  eliptical,  some  square,  and  some  were  parallelograms. 
One  group  of  these  attracted  my  attention  more  than  any 
others.  They  were  twelve  in  number,  of  conical  form,  with 
their  bases  joined,  and  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high.  They 
formed  about  two-tliirds  of  a  circle,  with  an  area  of  two 
hundred  feet  in  diameter.  If  these  were  isolated,  who  would 
not  say  they  are  artificial  ?  But  when  they  are  only  a 
group  of  ten  thousand  others,  which  have  as  much  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  artificial,  who  will  presunw  to  say  they 
are  the  work  of  man  ?     But  if  they  arc  tlie  work  of  art. 


MOUNDS  OF  THE  WEST. 


on 


and  attest  the  number,  the  genius,  and  perseverance,  of  de- 
parted nations  whose  works  have  survived  the  lapse  of  ages, 
we  would  interrogate  the  authors  ;  but  no  voice  replies  to 
ours.  All  is  silent  as  the  midnight  grave.  "The  mind 
seeks  in  vain  for  some  clue  to  assist  it  in  unraveling  the 
mystery.  Was  their  industry  stimulated  by  the  desire  to 
protect  themselves  against  inroads  of  invaders,  or  were  they 
themselves  the  aggressors  ?"  *  Are  they  the  monuments  of 
western  Pharaohs,  and  do  they  conceal  treasures  which  may 
yet  be  brought  to  light  V  There  is  nothing  plainer  than 
that  they  were  never  designed  as  works  of  defence.  But  some 
whi'e  they  admit  they  were  not  designed  for  offensive  or 
defensive  operations  of  belligerent  powers,  suppose  they 
were  erected  as  "mausoleums, and  that  the  difference  in  their 
size  was  intended  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  difference  in  the 
relative  importance  of  those  whose  bones  they  cover."  If 
this  theory  is  true,  the  La  Trappe  on  the  Mississippi,  which 
I  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  on  my  northern  tour, 
which  is  as  much  as  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and 
covering  about  six  acres,  must  inclose  mighty  bones,  or 
the  bones  of  a  mighty  monarch.  I  would  not  be  under- 
stood to  dissent  from  the  belief,  that  there  are  any  artificial 
mounds  in  the  great  valley  of  the  west,  but  I  believe  there 
is  a  great  mistake  upon  this  subject.  It  is  said,  by  those 
who  advocate  the  belief  that  they  are  the  work  of  ancient 
nations,  that  they  present  plain  evidence  of  this,  from  the 
fact,  that  they  contain  human  bones,  articles  of  pottery, 
and  the  like,  which  evince  that  they  were  constructed  for 
burying  places  of  the  dead.  That  some  of  them  have  been 
used  for  burying  places,  is  undoubtedly  true  ;  but  may  it  not 
be  questionable  whether  they  were  made,  or  only  selected  for 
burying  places.  No  one,  who  has  ever  seen  the  thousands 
and  ten  thousands  scattered  through  the  valley  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, will  ever  be  so  credulous  as  to  believe,  that  a  five 
hundredti)  part  of  them  are  the  work  of  man. 


■J      ■■•».,'     Wt-     •*  '  ■•-■All' 

■wfm 


. '  ••• .» >  .' J :,  ^  * 


•v,/ 


V,. 


.1 

:    'Ml 


,  ■<■'.■  I 


m 

■■'.  Ml 


r 


T 


t 


40 


PAWNEE  MISSION. 


'itl.'H-i- 


•I  1 


':.  t 


t  PI 


Crossed  the  Maragine  river,  which,  though  very  deep, 
was  not  so  wide,  but  that  we  constructed  a  bridge  over  it. 
Made  our  way  many  miles  through  the  rich  bottom  lands  of 
the  Mirfsonri,  and  crossed  this  noble  river  over  against  Belle- 
vue,  in  a  large  canoe,  and  swam  our  horses  and  mules 
across,  which,  considering  the  width  of  the  river  and  the 
strength  of  the  current,  required  much  effort.  Went  to  the 
agency  house,  where  I  was  happy  to  find  brethren  Dunbar 
and  AUis,  missionaries  of  the  Pawnees,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Forei/rn 
Missions.  There  is  a  baptist  mission  here  composed  of  Rev* 
Moses  Merrill  and  wife.  Miss  Brown,  and  a  christian  Indian 
Avoman,  a  descendant  of  Rev.  D.  Brainard's  Indians.  Thev 
are  appointed  by  the  Baptist  Board  to  labor  among  the 
Otoe  Indians,  about  twenty-five  miles  from  this  place,  on 
the  river  Platte.  These  Indians  are  away  from  their  intend- 
ed residence,  about  half  the  time,  on  the  hunting  excur- 
sions. 

A  little  more  than  a  half  a  mile  below  the  agency,  the 
American  Fur  Company  have  a  fort,  and  in  connexion  with 
which,  they  have  a  farming  establishment  and  large  num- 
bers of  cattle  and  horses,  a  liorse  power  mill  for  grinding' 
corn,  die 


ii. 


BEAUTIFUL  SCENERY. 


41 


CHAPTER  III. 

Continuance  at  Council  Bluffs—interesting  scenery— Indian  curiosity- 
information  obtained  about  several  Indian  tribes— Spasmodic  Cholera 
— an  Indian  chief  killed— leave  Bellevue  far  the  Black  Hills— storm 
of  rain— heavy  thunder  storm— Elkhorn  river,  the  country  around— 
Loups  fork  of  the  Platte— manner  of  encamping— Big  Axe,  Pawnee 
chief— Indian  feasting— fourth  of  July— Messrs.  Dunbar  and  Allis — 
thunder  storm— Indian  ornaments — effects  of  drunkenness— bite  of  a 
rattle-snake— buffalo  seen— Prairie  horse-fly— forks  of  the  Platte— want 
of  wood — swiftness  of  Antelopes— cUmate— thousands  of  bufialo — 
Badgers — prairie  dog— interesting  bluffs— old  castle — the  chimney  or 
beacon— an  alarm-  Ogallallah  Indians,  their  lodges— Black  Hills. 

Continued  in  this  place  three  weeks,  waiting  the  move- 
ments of  the  caravan,  who  made  slow  progress  in  prepar- 
ing their  packages  for  the  mountains.  During  our  contin- 
uance  here,  I  frequently  walked  over  the  hills  bordering 
upon  the  west  of  the  valley  of  the  Missouri,  to  enjoy  the 
pure  air  of  the  rolling  prairies,  and  to  view  the  magnificent 
prospects  unfolded  in  the  vale  below.  From  the  summit  of 
those  prominences,  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  may  be  traced 
until  lost  in  its  winding  course  among  the  bluffs.  Six  miles 
below,  is  seen  the  Papillon,  a  considerable  stream  from  the 
north-west,  winding  its  way  round  to  the  east,  and  uniting 
with  the  Missouri,  six  miles  above  the  confluence  of  the 
Platte,  coming  from  the  west.  Tiiese  flow  through  a  rich 
alluvial  plain,  opening  to  the  south  and  south-west  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach.  Upon  these  meadows  are  seen  feeding 
some  few  hundreds  of  horses  and  mules,  and  a  herd  of  cattle  ; 
and  some  fields  of  corn  diversify  the  scenery.  The  north 
is  covered  with  woods,  which  are  not  less  important  than 

the  rich  vales.     But  few  places  can  present  a  prospect 

4» 


/\. 


■  1 


•.'* 


H 


■ ;  <-.t  I 


•  1  ■ 
1.    r- 


m:^ 


'i;.'. 


,  >  ■ 


42 


MISSIONARY  PROSPECTS, 


I   ii:*,»v- 


''W 


W\r 


t 


i 


more  interesting,  and  when  a  civilized  population  shall  add 
the  fruits  of  their  industry,  but  few  places  can  be  more  de- 
sirable. 

In  respect  to  efforts  for  the  religious  instruction  and  con- 
version of  the  Indians,  I  am  convinced,  from  all  I  can  learn 
of  their  native  character,  that  the  first  impressions  which 
the  missionary  makes  upon  them,  are  altogether  important 
in  their  bearings  on  successful  labors  among  them.^  In 
things  about  which  they  are  conversant,  they  are  men ;.  but 
about  other  things  they  are  children,  and  like  children,  the 
announcement  of  a  new  subject  awakens  their  attention, 
their  curiosity,  and  their  energies  ;  and  it  has  been  remark- 
ed by  a  methodist  missionary  who  has  labored  among  the 
Indians,  that  many  seemed  to  embrace  the  gospel  on  its 
first  being  offered,  and  that  those  among  the  adults,  who 
failed  to  do  so,  were  rarely  converted.  If  from  any  mo- 
tives, or  from  any  cause,  instruction  is  delayed  and  their 
expectations  are  disappointed,  they  relapse  into  their  native 
apathy,  from  which  it  is  difficult  to  arouse  them. 

We  had  an  opportunit}^  whilst  we  continued  in  this  place, 
to  collect  much  information  about  the  Indians  in  the  Sioux 
country  from  Maj.  P.  the  agent  appointed  by  government 
to  tlie  Yanktons,  a  band  of  the  Sioux.  He  appears  to  be, 
not  only  intelligent  and  candid,  but  also  well  disposed  to- 
wards  Indian  improvement.  The  following  is  the  substance 
of  the  information,  which  he  gave  js  in  regard  to  several 
tribes  to  the  north  and  north-wesi,  of  this  place  :  that  the 
Omahas  are  situated  upon  tlie  Missouri,  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  above  this  place,  and  number-about  two 
thousand.  They  have  been  well  disposed  towards  the 
whites,  but,  owing  to  their  intercourse  witli  traders  and 
trappers,  and  abuses  which  they  have  received  from  them, 
they  are  becoming  more  vicious  in  their  habits,  and  less 
friendly.  And  yet,  kind  treatment  would  conciliate  their 
favor,  so  that  there  would  be  nothing  to  fear,  but  that  tiicre 


MISSIONARY  PROSPETS. 


45? 


might  be  a  mission  established  among  them  with  fair  pros- 
pect  of  success. 

The  Yanktons  are  an  interesting  band  of  the  Sioux,  of 
about  two  thousand  people.  Their  village  is  to  be  located 
on  the  Vermilion  river,  where  it  unites  with  the  Missouri 
from  the  north.  Maj.  P.  thinks  this  would  be  a  very  eligi- 
ble place  for  a  missionary  station,  and  says,  he  will  do  what 
is  in  his  power  to  aid  such  an  enterprise. 

The  Ponca  Indians  on  the  south  side  of  the  Missouri,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  L'eau  qui  coure,  number  six  or  eight 
hundred,  and  speak  the  same  language  as  the  Omahas. 

The  region  of  country,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux 
river  and  that  on  the  south  of  the  L'eau  qui  coure,  as  high 
as  the  country  of  the  Mandan  Indians,  may  be  classed  un- 
der the  general  head  of  the  Sioux  country ;  and  is  inhab- 
ited by  the  following  bands  of  Sioux,  viz  :  the  Yanktons, 
already  mentioned,  Santas,  Yanktonas,  Tetons,  Ogallallahs, 
Siones,  and  the  Hankpapes,  who  course  east  and  west  from 
the  Mississippi  to  the  Black  Hills,  and  sometimes  as  far 
south  as  the  river  Platte.  The  real  number  of  the  relative 
bands  cannot  be  correctly  ascertained,  but  probably  it  is 
from  forty  to  sixty  thousand.  Their  habits  are  wandering, 
and  they  rely  exclusively  upon  the  chase  for  subsistance. 
Their  principal  trade  is  in  buffalo  robes.  The  traders  have 
for  many  years  maintained  a  friendly  intercourse  with  them 
and  generally  speaking,  they  are  much  attached  to  white 
men. 

The  Mandans  are  a  much  more  stationary  people  than 
almost  any  other  tribe  in  this  whole  region  of  country,  and 
tlie  opportunity  to  establish  missionaries  among  them  is 
good  ;  but  on  account  of  repeated  ill  treatment,  which  they 
have  experienced,  they  are  beginning  to  grow  suspicious, 
and  are  loosing  confidence  in  white  men. 

Our  stay  in  this  place  was  protracted  much  beyond  our 
expectations.     Two  weeks  after  our  arrival,  the  spasmodic 


'sff  ♦■-■■•■  'KU' 


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44 


A  DISGRACEFUL  OUTRAGE. 


cholera  broke  out  with  a  great  degree  of  malignancy.     The! 
weather  was  very  warm,  and  there  were  showers  from  day 
to  day.     The  habits  of  the  men  and  their  accommodations, 
probably  had  a  tendency  to  induce  the  disease.     Three  died,  | 
and  undoubtedly  many  more  would  have  died,  had  it  not ! 
been  for  the  blessing  attending  the  assiduous  attention  of 
Doct.  Whitman,  my  associate,  and  the  free  use  of  powerful 
medicines.     And  had  it  not  been  for  his  successful  practice,  I 
the  men  would  have  dispersed,  and  the  caravan  would  have  | 
failed  of  going  to  the  place  of  rendezvous.     This  was  plain, 
ly  seen  and  frankly  acknowledged.     God  in  mercy  provided ; 
the  remedy  before  he  inflicted  the  scourge.     This  alarming  | 
disease  was  the  means  of  urging  our  departure  from  thisj 
place  sooner  than  we  otherwise  should  have  done.     It  was] 
necessary  to  move  from  this  place  to  the  prairies,  as  the) 
only  prospect  of  escaping  the  farther  ravages  of  the  dis. 
ease.     Not  a  single  new  case  occurred  after  we  re-com.^ 
menced  our  journey. 

Whilst  at  Belle vue,  a  man  by  the  name  of  Garrio,  a  half, 
blood  Indian  chief  of  the  Arickara  nation,  was  shot  un. 
der  very  aggravated  circumstances.     Garrio  and  his  family  | 
were  residing  in  a  log  cabin  on  the  Papillon  river.     Six  ori 
seven  men  went  down  to  his  house  in  the  night,  called  him] 
up,  took  him  away  half  a  mile,  and  shot  him  with  six  balls, 
scalped  him,  and  left  him  unburied.     The  reason  they  as.  I 
signed  for  doing  so,  was,  that  he  was  a  bad  man,  and  had 
killed  white  men.     If  he  was  guilty,  who  authorized  them 
to  take  his  life  ?    The  Arickara  nation  will  remember  this,  I 
and  probably  take  revenge  on  some  innocent  persons.    This, 
I  apprehend,  is  the  way  Indian  wars  are  produced.     While 
we  charge  the  Indians  with  inveterate  ferociousness  and| 
inhuman  brutality,  we  forget  the  too  numerous  wrongs  and 
outrages  committed  upon  them,  which  incite  them  to  re- 
venge.    They  cannot  apprehend  and  do  justice  to  such  offen- 
ders.    Or  if  they  could,  would  it  not  be  published  as  a  gross  I 


I. 


'■'■S 


« 


PRAIRIE    ENCAMPMENT. 


45 


[Indian  murder  and  aggression,  and  a  war  of  extermination 
jcommenced  against  them.  When  Indian  offences  are  pro- 
jclaimed,  we  hear  only  one  side  of  the  story,  and  the  other 
jwill  not  be  heard  until  the  last  great  day. 

Monday,  June  22.  After  so  long  delay,  we  re-commenced 
lour  journey  for  the  west.  The  Black  Hills  are  to  be  our 
[next  stopping  place.  The  caravan  started  yesterday.  We 
[passed  over  a  rich  extensive  prairie,  but  so  poorly  watered, 
[that  we  did  not  find  a  stream  of  water  through  the  whole 
{day.  In  the  afternoon  we  had  to  ride  in  a  heavy,  cold  rain, 
[in  consequence  of  which  I  became  much  chilled.  Overtook 
[the  caravan,  and  encamped  before  night  on  a  high  prairie, 
[where  we  could  find  but  little  wood,  and  it  was  diflicult  to 
[make  a  fire.  We  had  some  coarse  bread  made  of  corn, 
[and  some  bacon  for  supper.  The  change  from  the  comforts 
to  the  bare  necessaries  of  life  was  trying ;  but  when  I  had 
[wrapped  myself  in  my  blankets  and  laid  down  upon  the 
[ground  to  repose  for  the  night,  I  was  comfortable,  and  felt 
[thankful  to  God  for  his  goodness. 

Being  now  beyond  all  white  inhabitants,  in  an  Indian 
[country,  and  not  knowing  what  the  eventful  future  may  un- 
[fold,  I  thought  I  could  give  up  all  my  private  interests  for 
[the  good  of  the  perishing  heathen,  if  I  could  be  instrumen- 
fal  of  their  temporal  and  eternal  welfare.     Come  life  or 
ieath,  I  thought  I  could  say,  "thy  will  be  done,"     Felt 
strong  confidence,  that  God  would  protect  and  provide  for 
us,  and  derived  great  consolation  from  the  promise,  "  Lo  I 
im  \vithyou  always."     The  very  pelting  of  the  storm  upon 
)ur  tent  had  something  in  it  soothing,  and  calculated  to  ex- 
cite the  feeling  that  God  was  near. 

On  the  23d,  the  storm  still  continued,  and  we  did  not  rc- 
[move  our  encampment. 

Towards  noon  on  the  24th,  went  forward  on  our  way 
md  crossed  the  Papillon  river,  which  occasioned  much  de- 
lay to  get  our  baggage,  wagons,  and  animals  over.    We  diJ 


'.'Nil  ,£.  :>y.2l 
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46 


A  STORM. 


not  find  a  suitable  place  for  encamping  until  about  sunset  i 
where  we  could  be  accommodated  with  wood  and  water ; 
and  before  we  could  pitch  our  tent,  a  thunder  storm,  which 
had  been  gathering  for  a  long  time,  came  down  upon  us  withj 
great  violence,  accompanied  with  wind  and  hail.     The  ani-l 
mals  of  the  caravan  fled  in  different  directions,  some  packed  1 
and  somie  unpacked.     I  had  but  just  time  to  unpack  my  | 
mule  and  let  him  go,  and  it  was  with  much  difficulty  I 
could  hold  my  horse,  which  had  become  almost  frantic  un. 
der  the  beating  hail,  nor  did  I  escape  without  some  contu. 
sions.     The  lightning  was  very  frequent,  and  the  thunder  1 
was  almost  one  continual  roar.     After  a  while  the  fury  of| 
the  storm   abated,  and  in  the  dark  we  pitched  our  tent  I 
and  got  our  baggage  into  it,  but  were  not  able  to  make  a  I 
fire.     We  took  such  supper  as  we  could  provide  with  our| 
coarse  bread  and  bacon,  without  light  and  without  fire,  andit 
laid  ourselves  down  to  rest.     During  the  night  there  were! 
several  showers  which  created  rivulets,  some  of  which  found  1 
their  way  under  our  tent.     Got  a  little  sleep  towards  morn, 
ing,  with  which  we  arose  somewhat  refreshed. 

The  morning  of  the  25th  was  very  pleasant,  and  afford, 
ed  a  good  opportunity  to  dry  our  baggage,  and  for  the 
caravan  to  collect  together  their  goods,  which  were  scatter-a 
ed  over  the  prairie.     After  having  spent  the  forenoon  inl 
drying  and  adjusting  them,  we  went  forward  and  arrived  atl 
the  Elkhorn,  a  very  considerable  river.     For  conveyance  | 
over  this  river,  we  constructed  a  boat  of  a  wagon  body,  sol 
covered  with  undressed  skins  as  to  make  it  nearly  water^ 
tight.      The  method  was  very  good,  and  we  commenced! 
crossing,  but  night  came  on  before  we  finished,  and  there-J 
fore  we  encamped  on  the  east  side.     The  country  here  is^ 
excellent,  and  tolerabl}^  well  supplied  with  wood. 

On  the  26th,  continued  carrying  over  our  baggage,  and! 
got  all  over  half  after  twelve,  after  which  we  traveled  tenj 
miles  up  the  Elkhorn,  and  stopped  for  the  night. 


■■■:''  .  tH 


A  FRIENDLY  MEETING. 


47 


On  the  27th,  arose  very  early  and  pursued  our  journey, 
land  made  good  progress  until  three  P.  M.  when  we  met 
VIessrs.  Campbell  and  Sublette  with  a  small  caravan,  return- 
ling  from  the  Black  Hills.  When  mountain  traders  meet 
mder  such  circumstance,  there  must  be  mutual  exchanges  of 
friendship,  more  ceremonious  and  complicated  than  can  be 
rone  through  with  in  the  passing,  "how  do  you  do?"  The 
two  caravans  encamped,  in  due  form,  and  at  respectful  dis- 
tance from  each  other. 

Sabbath,  28th.  The  caravans  continued  here  through 
the  day.  This  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  rest,  and  to  at- 
Itend  to  devotional  exercises  in  our  tent. 

On  the  29th,  passed  over,  and  traveled  a  good  distance  up 
5hell  creek.     As  a  traveler,  I  should  be  guilty  of  neglect  of 
iuty,  if  I  should  not  give  a  description  of  this  section  of 
country,  belonging  to  the  Otoes  on  the  east  and  the  Pawnees 
)n  the  west.     For  about  twenty-five  miles  since  we  crossed 
[he  Elkhorn,  and  between  this  river  and  the  Platte,  which 
ire  about  ten  miles  apart,  there  is  not  a  single  hill.     It  is 
j-ich  bottom  land,  covered  with  a  luxurient  growth  of  grass, 
[o  country  could  be  more  inviting  to  the  farmer,  with  only 
be  exception,  the  want  of  wood  land.     The  latitude  is  suffi- 
ciently high  to  be  healthy ;  and  as  the  climate  grows  warm- 
er as  we  travel  west,  until  we  approach  the  snow-topped 
lountains,  there  is  a  degree  of  mildness,  not  experienced 
last  of  the  Alleghany  mountains.     The  time  will  come,  and 
jrobably  is  not  far  distant,  when  this  country  will  be  cover- 
Id  with  a  dense  population.     The  earth  was  created  for  the 
[abitation  of  man,  and  for  a  theatre,  on  which  God  will 
lanifest  his  perfections  in  his  moral  government  among  his 
loral  creatures,  and  therefore  the  earth,  according  to  divine 
[rediction,  shall  be  given  to  the  people  of  God.     Although 
nfidels  may  sneer,  and  scoffers  mock,  yet  God  will  accom- 
|lLsh  his  designs,  and  fulfil  every  promise  contained  in  his 
rord.     Then  this  amazing  extent  of  most  fertile  land  will 


,#'.••  ?»'■»*•■ 

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48 


SCARCITY  OP  STONE. 


I , 


'.m 


not  continue  to  be  the  wandering  ground  of  a  few  thousand! 
Indians,  with  only  a  very  few  acres  under  cultivation ;  noi' 
will  millions  of  tons  of  grass  grow  up  to  rot  upon  the  grounc 
or  to  be  burned  up  with  the  fire  enkindled  to  sweep  over  the| 
prairie,  to  disincumber  it  of  its  spontaneous  burden.  Thei 
herds  of  buffalo  which  once  fattened  upon  these  meadows 
are  gone  ;  and  the  deer  which  once  cropped  the  grass  have 
disappeared ;  and  the  antelopes  have  fled  away ;  and  shal: 
solitude  reign  here  till  the  end  of  time  ?  No :  here  shal: 
be  heard  the  din  of  business,  and  the  church-going  bell  shal 
sound  far  and  wide.  The  question  is,  by  whom  shall  thi 
region  of  country  be  inhabited  ?  It  is  plain  that  the  Indi. 
ans  under  their  present  circumstances  will  never  multiply 
and  fill  this  land.  They  must  be  brought  under  the  inflii. 
ence  of  civilization  and  Christianity,  or  they  will  continue 
to  melt  away,  until  nothing  will  remain  of  them  but  relic: 
found  in  museums,  and  some  historical  records.  Philan 
thropy  and  the  mercy  of  God  plead  in  their  behalf. 

We  were  awakened  on  the  30th,  at  the  first  breaking  o; 
the  day,  by  the  call,  "out,  out ;  gear  up  your  mules."  W. 
traveled  until  one  o'clock  P.  M.  more  than  eight  hours,  wh«? 
we  halted  and  breakfasted.  We  went  again  on  our  way. 
and  came  to  the  Loups  fork  of  the  Platte,  and  stopped  foj 
the  night.  Most  of  the  country  over  which  we  traveled  i(H 
day  was  a  rolling  prairie.  There  is  nothing  in  this  sectio! 
of  country  to  interest  the  geologist.  I  did  not  see  a  singij 
stone,  after  passing  the  Papillon  to  this  place,  excepting 
few  small  ones  in  the  place  where  we  crossed  that  streanij 
and  which,  on  that  account,  is  called  Rock  ford.  It  is  oi 
of  the  peculiarities  of  the  dialect  of  the  people  in  the  wcstj 
ernmost  states,  to  call  small  stones  rocks.  And  therefoi 
they  speak  of  throwing  a  rock  at  a  bird,  or  at  a  man.  Thei 
are  no  forests  in  these  western  regions.  The  meadovi 
spread  out  almost  without  boimds.  There  are  only  her? 
and  there  some  clumps  of  trees ;  and  the  rivers  and  smalli 


:^Mi: 


MANNER  OP  ENCAMPING. 


49 


streams  are  skirted  with  cotton  wood,  elms,  and  willows. 
Whatever  propriety  there  once  was,  there  is  none  now,  in 
calling  the  Indians  children  of  the  forest.  '  ; 

The  thermometer  stood  to  day,  at  noon,  at  81*^.  '     ' 

Wednesday,  July  1st.  Rested  the  last  night  as  quietly 
as  I  should  have  done  in  a  civilized  country  and  upon  a 
good  bed.  Felt  cheerful  in  committing  myself  to  God,  to 
awake  in  this,  or  in  the  eternal  world,  as  he  shall  direct. 

We  have  a  small  tent  made  of  coarse  cotton  cloth,  form- 
ing a  cone.     After  setting  this,  we  stow  away  our  baggage 
so  as  to  leave  a  space  in  the  centre,  for  our  lodgings.     My 
bed  is  made  by  first  spreading  down  a  buffalo  skin,  upon 
I  this  a  bear  skin,  then  two  or  three  Mackinaw  blankets,  and 
I  my  portmanteau  constitutes  my  pillow. 

We  proceeded  to-day  a  few  miles  up  the  Loups  fork,  and 
I  crossed  over  at  a  good  fording  place,  such  as  we  did  not  ex- 
pect  to  find.  The  river  here  is  nearly  a  mile  wide.  After 
going  a  few  miles  up  the  river,  we  halted  fi)r  the  night. 
The  manner  of  our  encamping,  is  to  form  a  lai^e  hollow 
squcire,  encompassing  an  area  of  about  an  acre,  having  the 
river  on  one  side ;  three  wagons  forming  a  part  of  another, 
coming  down  to  the  river ;  and  three  more  in  the  same 
manner  on  the  opposite  side ;  and  the  packages  so  arranged 
in  parcels,  about  three  rods  apart,  as  to  fill  up  the  rear,  and 
the  sides  not  occupied  by  the  wagons.  The  horses  and 
mules,  near  the  middle  of  the  day,  are  turned  out  under 
guard,  to  feed  for  two  hours  ;  and  the  same  again  towards 
night,  until  after  sun  set,  when  they  are  taken  up  and  brought 
into  the  hollow  square,  and  fastened  with  ropes,  twelve  feet 
long,  to  pickets  driven  firmly  into  the  ground.  The  men 
[are  divided  into  small  companies,  stationed  at  the  several 
parcels  of  goods  and  wagons,  where  they  wrap  themselves 
in  their  blankets  and  rest  for  the  night ;  the  whole  however 
are  formed  into  six  divisions  to  keep  guard,  relieving  each 


!>■*"*  ',,,1!  ».     •■ 


■..'"■',Sv-".l 

■•'■■' '  't-f  .'■] 

■  ■;,   '        17-'       l^V   ''      ■ 


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W-'':l 


50 


REPUBLICAN  FAWIfEES. 


m^''. 


III.:'' »;••♦'! 


1  li-         .    . 


B:}1 


m- 


other  every  two  hours.  This  is  to  prevent  hostile  Indians 
from  falling  upon  us  by  surprise,  or  from  coming  into  the 
camp  by  stealth  and  taking  away  either  horses  or  packages 
of  goods.  We  were  permitted,  by  favor,  to  pitch  our  tent 
next  to  the  river,  half  way  between  the  two  wings,  which 
made  our  situation  a  little  more  retired. 

Nothing  special  on  the  second.  On  the  third,  passed  the 
village  of  the  Tapage  and  Republican  Pawnee  Indians. 
These  Indians  have  buildings  which  appear  substantial  and 
adapted  to  comfort.  Many  of  the  Pawnee  Loups  came  to 
us,  and  received  us  with  great  civility  and  kindness.  Big 
Ax,  their  second  chief,  had  charge  of  this  party.  He  is  a 
man  of  dignified  appearance,  and  his  countenance  is  expres. 
sive  of  intelligence  and  benevolence.  He  is  very  friendly 
to  white  men.  These  Indians  were  going  out  upon  their 
summer  hunt,  and  upon  the  same  route  we  were  pursuing, 
and  were  not  willing  we  should  go  on  before  them,  lest  we 
should  frighten  away  the  buffalo. 

These  Indians  manifest  their  friendship  in  inviting  us  to 
feasts  ;  and  as  we  may  attend  a  half  a  dozen  in  a  day  with* 
out  being  surfeited,  an  explanation  may  not  be  out  of  place. 
Big  Ax  gave  the  first  invitation.  It  is  not  customary  for 
those  who  provide  the  feast  to  sit  down  with  their  guests ; 
therefore.  Big  Ax  and  his  associates  satin  dignified  silence 
on  one  side  of  the  lodge,  while  those  of  us  who  partook  of 
the  feast,  occupied  the  centre.  The  daughters  of  Big  Ax 
served  us  on  the  occasion,  and  bountifully  helped  us  w  ith 
boiled  corn  and  beans.  Such  are  their  customs,  that  to 
avoid  giving  offence,  we  must  eat  all  that  is  set  before  us,  or 
take  it  away,  and  Mr.  Fontenelle  took  what  remained.— 
In  the  evening  we  were  invited  to  two  others.  The  first 
consisted  of  boiled  corn  and  dried  pumpkins,  and  the  other  of 
boiled  buffalo  meat.  I  took  away  what  remained.  "We 
•also  gave  the  principal  chiefs  a  feast,  setting  before  them  all 
the  variety  which  our  bacon  and  coarse  bread  could  furnish, 


havii 
ury 

Ac 
teresi 
in  wl 
ith£ 
hund^ 
than 
rivers 
compj 
sectic 
Elkhc 
of  wh 
nume 
found 

Jul 
states, 
our  fo 
ism. 
thems( 
knowi 
revelii 
would 
heavei 
comm 

Sab 
and  ei 
tent,  tl 
degree 
for  wa 
them 
their  '. 
heart, 
per; 


I  ■-:.. 


tile  Indians 
Ing  into  the 
)r  packages 
tch  our  tent 
ings,  which 

1,  passed  the  | 
ee  Indians, 
stantial  and  I 
Lips  came  to 
dness.     Big 
y.    He  is  a 
ce  is  expres. 
ery  friendly  | 
t  upon  their 
re  pursuing, 
lem,  lest  we 

viting  us  to 

a  day  with. 

ut  of  place. 

ternary  for 

eir  guests ; 

litied  silence 

partook  of 

of  Big  Ax  51 

ed  us  with 

ms,  that  to 

fore  us,  or 

mained.— 

The  first 

he  other  of 

ned.     "We 

re  them  all 

Id  furnish,  i 


CHANGES  OF  THB  BIVEB. 


51 


having  it  in  our  power  to  add  a  dish  of  coife,  of  which  lux- 
ury we  partook  for  this  once  on  our  whole  journey. 

Admidst  the  uniformity  of  the  prairies,  there  is  some  in- 
teresting variety.     It  was  interesting  to  see  the  various  beds 
in  which  the  river  has  run,  and  which  it  has  forsaken  while 
it  has  formed  new  ones.     Formerly,  perhaps  not  a  very  few 
hundred  years  ago,  this  river  ran  a  hundred  feet  higher 
than  at  present ;  and  it  is  this  process  which  renders  these 
rivers  so  very  turbid.     The  water  of  Loups  fork,  however, 
comparatively  speaking,  is  quite  clear.     The  botany  of  this 
section  of  country  is  very  interesting.     Since  crossing  the 
Elkhorn,  I  have  noticed  nine  different  species  of  grass,  most 
of  which  are  entirely  new.     The  flowering  plants  are  very 
numerous  and  beautiful,  and  especially  the  rose,  which  is 
found  of  almost  every  hue.     Thermometer,  at  noon,  90°. 

July  4th.  This  is  a  day  of  great  noise  and  bustle  in  the 
states.  Orators  speak  of  the  deeds  and  achievements  of 
our  forefathers :  their  audiences  catch  the  spirit  of  patriot- 
ism. Not  so  with  our  company.  Having  almost  expatriated 
themselves,  they  had  forgotten  their  nation's  birth-day ;  and 
knowing  that  their  days  of  indulgence  would  be  seasons  of 
reveling,  I  forbore  to  remind  them  of  it.  How  suitable 
would  be  a  rational  religious  expression  of  gratitude  to 
heaven,  instead  of  the  confusion  and  riot,  which  are  the 
common  demonstrations  of  joy  on  such  occasions. 

Sabbath,  fifth.  The  caravan  went  forward  a  few  miles 
and  encamped.  The  Indians  were  constantly  calling  at  our 
tent,  through  the  day.  It  was  painful  to  witness  their  poor 
degraded  condition,  ignorant  of  God  and  salvation,  and 
for  want  of  a  knowledge  of  their  language,  not  able  to  point 
them  to  the  Savior,  nor  to  teach  them  their  obligations  to 
their  Maker,  and  their  duty  to  turn  to  him  with  their  whole 
heart,  I  hope  and  pray  that  the  Pawnee  mission  may  pros- 
per ;  that  the  disposition  which  Messrs.  Dunbar  and  AUici 


,      '•'■     >■    \* 

',•■'.•  .n*"  <i*  !  > 

■  •■;  '.;->-,'■.,,, -v. 


'4 «•■{•»■»',■'.'  • 

■    I  t 

'  >■      ..  < 
'  '■  ,.■  •■  '■ '. 
,   '  '  •  ■»  •  ■ 


^-'Pm 


■^v'^j^,' 


Si 


-■i 

,  '  ..   I      I; 
•    -  'i  .    ft 


f  1 


It'  ".  . 


ifr." 


Mi 


i 


52 


A  THIEF  IN  THE  CAMP. 


manifest  to  fro  with  the  Indians  and  live  as  they  live,  may 
1x3  followed  up,  until  their  teaching  and  influence  are  felt, 
and  the  Indians  shall  locate  themselves  upon  their  lands, 
under  the  influence  of  Christianity  and  civilization.  Thn 
mode  which  Messrs.  D.  and  A.  have  adopted  of  going  with 
the  Indians  where  they  go,  appears  to  be  the  right  one,  and 
must  be  generally  adopted  to  bring  the  numerous  wander- 
ing nations  and  tribes  to  the  knowledge  of  Christ.     <  »  •- 

It  is  all  important  that  the  missionary  be  able  to  speak  to 
the  heathen  in  the  language  wherein  they  were  born.  It  is 
also  important  that  the  Indians  settle  down  and  cultivate 
the  soil ;  but  how  can  they  be  induced  to  do  this  before  they 
ai*e  taught  1  Do  any  say  by  an  interpreter  ?  An  interpret- 
er may  be  employed  for  a  while,  but  the  missionary  must 
become,  as  soon  as  possible,  his  own  interpreter.  And  why 
can  he  not  learn  the  Indian  language  as  well  as  the  trader 
and  hunter  ?  He  can  if  he  will  exercise  as  much  self-de- 
nial.  ■' 

'  On  the  sixth,  left  the  Loups  fork  very  early  in  the  morn- 
ing in  company  with  the  Pawnees,  and  directed  our  course 
south-west  for  the  Platte  river.  Towards  night  we  had  a 
thunder  storm  with  heavy  rains,  which  continued  through 
most  of  the  night ;  but  under  our  tent  wo  kept  dry  and 
slept  so  soundly,  that  we  had  our  meat  stolen  frmn  us  with, 
out  being  awaked ;  and  in  our  circumstances,  though  only 
about  six  pounds,  it  was  a  sensible  loss. 

After  we  came  to  the  Platte,  we  pursued  our  way  up  the 
river,  which  is  broad,  but  not  very  deep,  as  its  name  indi- 
cates. The  country  begins  to  diminish  in  its  fertility,  but 
still  is  very  good.  We  were  kept  from  making  the  progress 
wo  might,  if  tlie  Indians  would  have  permitted  us  to  go  on 
and  leave  them.  The  men  of  the  caravan  began  to  And 
fault  with  the  delay,  and  had  reason  to  do  so,  on  account 
of  the  want  of  food,  having  nothing  to  eat  but  boiled  corn, 


BIO  AX,  A  PAWNEE  CHIEF. 


53 


and  no  way  to  obtain  any  thing  more  before  finding  buf. 

The  intellectual  powers  of  these  Indians  are  very  good, 
but  need  cultivation.  They  are  fond  of  ornaments  and  va- 
riety, and  not  having  the  means  of  gratifying  their  vanity, 
as  civilized  people  have,  they  resort  to  almost  any  thing  to 
decorate  their  persons;  such  as  porcupine  quills,  beads, 
wreaths  of  grass  and  flowers,  brass  rings  upon  their  wrists, 
birds  feathers  and  claws  of  wild  beasts  ;  the  claws  of  a  gria- 
zly  bear  are  an  ornament  of  the  first  order ;  and  the  tails  of 
white  wolves  are  in  high  estimation.  But  their  most  uni. 
versal  and  particular  ornament  is  painting  their  faces  with 
vermilion.  •  .     .     .  ,-,    i.x  '  ' 

These  heathen,  as  all  others,  are  ignorant  of  the  benign 
influence  of  the  gospel,  and  therefore,  while  they  have  many 
interesting  traits  of  character,  they  are  cruel  to  their  old 
men  and  women.  Their  women  are  compelled  to  do  all  the 
work — the  men  only  hunt  and  go  to  war.  Having  but 
few  horses,  when  they  journey,  thoy  pack  their  old  men  and 
women,  and  even  the  blind  and  lame — and  their  dogs.  I 
did  not  see  among  these  Indians  a  single  person  having  any 
natural  defonnity,  nor  any  one  who  appeared  to  be  deficient 
in  common  sense. 

July  ninth.  To-day  Big  Ax  came  to  my  tent  and  sat  by 
me  a  long  time.  Never  did  I  so  much  wish  to  converse 
with  any  man  and  tell  him  about  the  Savior,  and  from  the 
expression  of  his  countenance,  I  thought  he  felt  the  same. 
But  the  gift  of  tongues  was  not  imparted  to  me,  and  we 
could  only  converse  with  the  language  of  signs,  which  can 
be  used  far  better  than  I  had  anticipated. 

By  Mr.  Fontenelle's  making  a  large  present  to  the  Indians, 

they  agreed  to  let  us  go  on  to-morrow  without  them.     Our 

men  could  hardly  have  been  restrained  within  subordination 

if  they  had  not  consented. 

Towards  the  night  of  the  10th,  we  had  an  uncommon  storm 
5* 


lit 


l'* 


rA 


ti  .d.:.--  (■•'.■.if 

, .  - '  v» 


■■■<■ 


M 


.1  .      ■".•V    -.'V  ii' 


'■'  >:'vrl 


'    .^' 


.         '■'^^ 


^    •/* 

'\:^ 


■1 


'^4 


■V 


54 


ATTEMPT  TO  MURDER. 


W^ 
;i1:.i1 


VI. 


N:..- 


of  thunder,  hail,  rain,  and  wind.  The  horses  and  mules 
could  not  be  controlled,  and  they  turned  and  fled  in  all  di- 
rections before  the  storm.  The  whole  caravan  was  scat- 
tered ;  but  when  the  storm  abated,  they  were  again  collect, 
ed  without  much  difliculty,  and  nothing  was  lost.  If  any 
hostile  band  of  Indians  had  been  about  us,  it  would  have 
been  easy  for  them  to  have  made  us  a  prey.  But  the  Lord 
not  only  rode  upon  the  storm,  but  was  also  near  for  our  de. 
fence.  The  scene  was  alarming,  and  yet  grand  and  truly 
sublime.  "  '  ■   >■■       .: 

Sabbath,  12th.  We  are  in  a  land  of  dangers,  but  God  is 
our  preserver,  and  liow  desirable  it  is,  that  his  mercies 
should  be  had  in  grateful  remembrance,  and  that  portion  of 
time,  which  he  has  set  apart  as  holy,  should  be  observed  as 
such.  The  caravan  traveled  a  part  of  the  day,  but  were 
under  the  necessity  of  stopping  in  consequence  of  rain, 
which  wet  their  packages.  It  is  worthy  of  notice,  that 
there  have  been  various  providences,  which  have  thus  far 
prevented  the  caravan  from  traveling  much  upon  the  sab- 
bath.  But  this  day  has  been  one  of  great  confusion  and 
wickedness.  In  consequence  of  the  men  being  drenched 
with  rain,  whiskey  was  dealt  out  freely,  to  keep  them  from 
taking  cold.  Most  of  them  became  much  excited,  and  one 
of  the  men,  who  took  an  active  p?Tt  in  killing  Garrio,  stab, 
bed  a  man  with  full  intent  to  have  pierced  his  heart ;  but 
the  knife,  by  striking  a  rib,  turned  aside  and  only  made  a 
deep  flesh  wound. 

I  think  I  know  the  feelings  of  David,  when  he  expressed 
a  strong  desire  after  the  sanctuary  of  God,  and  to  dwell  in 
his  tnl)ernacle.  .       >.  .  ^  .  .     .       -.  -»   ,.,^ 

July  13th.  Wo  are  not  traveling  through  forests,  nor  a 
solitary  desert,  but  so  far  as  boundless  meadows  are  con- 
cerned,  the  country  has  the  appearance  of  being  under  good 
cultivation.  Wc  see  no  fields  of  grain  secured  from  the 
beasts  of  the  earth  by  fences,  nor  habitations  of  civilized 


PRAIBIie  HOfiSS-PLY. 


65 


i 


en,  but  meadows  adorned  with  a  great  variety  of  plants, 
ome  of  which  appear  to  be  gregarious.     Often  some  acres 
are  diversified  with  great  variety  of  colors  and  species.  '• 

There  are  two  species  of  plants  which  are  said  to  be  a 

vereign  remedy  against  the  poison  of  the  rattle-snake,  the 
virtue  of  one  of  which  we  had  an  opportunity  of  testing. 
One  of  our  men  was  bitten  in  the  foot,  and  before  we  knew 
his  case,  the  poison  had  so  far  progressed,  that  not  only  his 
foot,  but  also  his  leg  had  become  much  inflamed  and  was  quite 
painful.  One  of  these  plants  was  applied  to  the  parts  af- 
fected, and  at  once  the  man  was  convalescent,  and  in  a  few 
hours  was  well.  The  plant  resembles  the  blue  flag  in  its 
leaves,  but  differs  in  having  them  serrated.  Its  roots 
contain  its  healing  properties,  which  are  pounded  and  ap- 
plied to  the  affected  parts.  Rattle-snakes,  though  common, 
are  not  numerous.  These  and  other  reptiles  are  prevented 
from  multiplying  by  the  fires,  which  every  year  run  over 
the  prairies. 

On  the  14th,  the  announcement  of  buffalo  spread  cheer- 
..  e  3  and  animation  through  the  whole  caravan,  and  to 
men  whose  very  life  depended  on  the  circumstance,  it  was 
no  indifferent  event.  From  the  immense  herds  of  these 
wild  animals,  dispersed  over  these  beautiful  fields  of  nature, 
we  were  to  derive  our  subsistence.  Although  several  were 
seen  to-day,  yet  our  hunters  were  not  very  successful  in  ob- 
taining many. 

I  had  heard  of  the  prairie  hoi*se-fly,  but  was  not  aware, 
that  it  would  be  so  very  annoying,  or,  I  may  say,  so  very 
tormenting  to  our  horses.  Its  bite  is  like  the  thrust  of  the 
point  of  a  lancet,  and  when  the  fly  is  surfeited,  or  is  brush- 
ed off,  the  blood  immediately  gushes  out.  When  the  cara- 
van is  in  close  company,  there  l)cing  about  two  hundred 
horses  and  mules,  the  number  of  the  flics  are  so  divided  that 
they  are  not  much  felt :  but  when  for  any  purpose  a  horse 
is  separated  from  the  company,^  he  is  severely  tormented 


■.xy. 


■  'S; 


i 


<'\ 


■'>." 


.11  ,•'     -S 


i^ 


V:    ., 


li'r.'.'';-. 


I.J 

I'll' 


56 


BUFFALOES,  THEIR  APPEARANCE. 


until  he  returns.  On  one  occasion,  when  I  rode  forward  to 
find  a  crossing  place  over  a  deep,  muddy  stream  of  water,  ^ 
these  flies  came  around  my  horse  in  such  swarms,  that  they 
put  him  in  an  agony,  so  that  he  became  frantic,  and  I  was 
obliged  to  return  in  full  speed,  otherwise  I  could  not  have 
kept  upon  my  saddle.  I  have  no  doubt  that  a  horse  left 
alone  any  considerable  time  in  this  section  of  country  in 
the  season  of  these  flies,  would  be  killed.         -  v^     -    - 

The  next  day,  we  journeyed  as  usual,  and  about  noon  ar. 
rived  at  the  Forks  of  the  Platte.  We  saw  a  large  herd  of 
buffalo,  from  which  we  obtained  a  good  supply  of  excellent 
meat.  The  buffaloes  present,  with  their  shaggy  shoulders, 
neck,  and  heads,  a  very  majestic  appearance,  and  if  their 
natures  were  unknown,  their  appearance  would  be  terrific. 
But  they  are  timid  and  inoffensive,  showing  no  disposition 
to  injure  any  person,  except  in  self-defence,  when  wounded  J 
and  closely  pursued.  Their  strength  is  great ;  and  although 
they  look  clumsy,  they  run  very  swiftly.  It  requires  a 
horse  of  more  than  ordinary  speed,  to  outrun  them  for  any 
considerable  time. 

The  section  of  country  about  the  Forks  of  the  Platte  is 
very  pleasant,  without  any  high  mountains  in  sight ;  but  at 
a  distance  beyond  the  widely  extended  rich  bottom  lands, 
bluffs  of  various  forms  present  a  picturesque  scenery. 
The  entire  want  of  forests  in  a  large  space  of  country 
around,  is  a  disideratum  which  cannot  be  easily  supplied ; 
but  probably  forest  trees  might  be  cultivated  to  advantage. 
Is  it  not  highly  probable,  that  mineral  coal  will  be  found 
here  as  well  as  upon  the  prairies  in  the  western  states  ?  We 
found  no  wood  yesterday,  nor  to-day,  and  probably  shall  not 
for  some  days  to  come ;  and  therefore  we  have  been  under 
the  necessity  of  making  our  flres  with  the  dry  dung  of  the  buf* 
falo.  The  most  thoroughly  weather-beaten  is  selected,  and 
proves  to  be  a  better  substitute  for  common  fuel  than  we  | 
had  anticipated.     Although  we  are  in  the  section  of  coun* 


DEFENSIVE  PBEPABATIONS. 


57r 


irv  where  we  had  fears  of  finding  the  Arickara  Indians^ 
Ihe  death  of  whose  chief  has  been  mentioned,  and  whO' 
lave  been  residing  near  this  place  for  several  months  past,, 
ret  we  have  seen  no  Indians  since  we  left  the  Pawnees.     It 

supposed  they  have  gone  far  up  the  south  Fork  of  the 
*latte,  to  avoid  the  United  States  dragoons  under  thecom- 
land  of  Col.  Dodge,  who  are  on  their  way  to  find  them  to 
ball  them  to  account  for  their  conduct  towards  white  men, 
ind  to  form  with  them  a  treaty  of  peace.  But  they  intend 
|o  keep  out  of  the  way  of  the  dragoons,  and  therefore  we 
jpe  to  pass  unmolested,  *         ""     "•  • 

We  took  our  course  up  the  north-west  Fork  of  the  Platte, 
ind  towards  night  encamped  upon  its  bank  in  our  usual 
Ibrm,  using  particular  caution  to  be  prepared  for  an  attack 
)f  the  Arickaras,  should  any  of  their  war  parties  be  about 
\s.  Every  man  was  required  to  see  that  his  rifle  was  in 
jood  order,  and  to  have  a  good  supply  of  powder  and  balls... 
^e  all  slept  with  our  clothes  on,  so  that,  if  called  with  the 
jntiners  fire,  we  might  in  less  than  a  moment  be  ready  for 
lotion ;  but  the  night  passed  away  in  quietude,  and  at  the 
irsi;  breaking  of  the  day  we  were  awaked  with  the  custom- 
iry  call  of  the  guide. 

Saw,  on  the  16th,  the  bufialo  in  greater  numbers,  and  in^ 
learer  view,  than  previously.    They  are  less  shy  than  those 
fc  first   found.     They  are  more  majestic  than  the  elk,  but 
jss  beautiful.      The  antelopes,  some  of  which  we  have  seen 
)r  several  days  past,  are  becoming  very  numerous.     They 
ire  rightly  named ;  for  their  speed  exceeds  any  animal  I 
lave  ever  seen.     Our  hounds  can  do  nothing  in  giving  them 
\hc  chase  ;  so  soon  are  they  left  far  in  the  rear,  tliat  they  do 
lot  follow  them  more  than  ten  or  twenty  rods,  before  they 
jturn,  looking  ashamed  of  their  defeat.     Our  hunters  oc- 
casionally take  some  of  them  by  coming  upon  them  by 
Stealth.      When  they  are  surprised,  they  start  forward  a 
irery  small  space,  and  then  turn,  and  with  high.Iifted  heads, 


^ 
*> 


?■'  !■..■'•■■  -i^— 


H. 


•s./ 


'■"J? 

■  ■'.    'J-  . 

■  ,r 


V    • 


■'.Mil 


■'h-: 


i  - 


<*• 


"i.   . 


Ilfw 


'1 .' 


58 


CLIMATE  AND  OBJECTS  CHANGE. 


stare  for  a  fev^  seconds  at  the  object  which  has  alarmed 
them,  and  then,  with  a  half  whistling  snufT,  bound  off, 
i<eeming  to  be  as  much  upon  wings  as  upon  feet.  They  re. 
semble  the  goat,  but  are  far  more  beautiful.  Though  they 
are  of  different  colors,  yet  they  are  generally  red,  and  have 
a  large,  fine,  prominent  eye.  Their  flesh  is  good  for  food, 
and  about  equals  venison.  «     •    •    >  ' 

Seventeenth.  We  did  not  go  on  our  way  as  early  this 
morning  as  usual,  being  detained  by  breaking  an  axeltree 
of  one  of  our  wagons.  The  country  is  more  hilly,  and  the 
bluffs  in  some  places  come  down  to  the  river.  Herds  of 
buffalo  are  seen  in  almost  every  direction,  and  they  are  so 
numerous,  that  they  have  so  eaten  up  the  grass,  that  our 
animals  find  scanty  pasture.  The  thermometer  stood  at 
noon  at  88°  Encamped  a  little  below  Cedar  bluffs,  so  called 
from  the  few  cedars  scattered  over  them,  which  promise  a 
better  supply  of  fuel. 

Commenced  our  journey  on  the  18th,  at  our  usual  early 
hour,  to  travel  on  until  near  noon  before  breakfast.  From 
the  change  of  vegetation  of  various  kinds,  birds,  <kc. 
it  is  evident  we  are  ascending  into  higher  regions  of  coun- 
try, and  an  atmosphere  more  resembling  that  of  the  New 
England  states.  As  we  advance,  the  flowering  plants  are 
becoming  less  numerous ;  and  although  the  middle  of  the 
day  is  very  warm,  yet  the  nights  and  mornings  are  more 
cool.  The  ascent  is  so  gradual,  that  the  change  is  not  per< 
ceptible.  Rocks  begin  to  appear,  and  still  we  are  far  from 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  Limestone  of  a  light  brown  color 
is  found  in  the  bluffs,  laying  in  horizontal  strata,  which 
might  be  easily  worked,  and  to  any  extent.  Very  small 
black  gnats,  hardly  discernable  by  the  naked  eye,  for  some 
days  past  have  been  numev*ous  and  very  annoying ;  and 
the  bite  is  very  poisonous.  ,«.       ., 

July  20.  Thousands  of  buffalo  were  seen  to-day  and 
our  men  amused  themselves  with  chasing  and  shooting  at 


BAD6EBS FRAISIE-DOGS; 


b9 


them ;  but  it  was  well  for  the  buffalo  that  they  made  poor 
shots.  I  do  not  feel  authorized  to  sport  with  animal  life, 
but  I  thought  it  not  improper  to  try  my  horse  in  the  chase. 
He  ran  very  swiftly,  was  not  at  all  afraid,  and  would  have 
run  into  the  midst  of  them,  had  I  not  held  him  in  check. 
He  appeared  to  enjoy  the  sport.  I  shot  one  through  the 
shoulders,  which  had  received  a  wound,  which  must  have 
been  fatal.  Not  at  that  time  being  sufficiently  acquainted 
with  such  an  undertaking,  as  our  guide  afterwards  said,  I 
put  myself  in  considerable  danger ;  for  I  dismountoH  my 
horse,  to  have  an  opportunity  of  taking  a  more  stead)  aim, 
than  I  could  have  done  upon  hi»  back.  The  danger  was, 
that,  if  the  wounded  buffalo  had  turned  upon  me,  I  should 
not  have  been  able  to  have  regained  my  seat  upon  the  sad- 
dle, and  with  the  speed  of  my  horse  have  fled  from  his  pur- 
suit. But  fortunately  he  did  not  rise  upon  me,  and  I  re- 
turned to  the  caravan  unhurt  and  unconscious  of  danger. 

Badgers  inhabit  this  part  of  the  country,  and  from  the 
many  holes,  which  they  dig  in  the  ground  for  their  dwell- 
ings, they  must  be  very  numerous,  though  we  have  seen 
only  a  few,  and  have  killed  but  one.  They  keep  near  their 
holes,  and  run  into  them  on  the  least  approach  of  danger. 
It  is  of  the  genus  ursus,  about  the  size  of  the  marmot,  or 
what  is  often  called  the  woodchuck,  of  a  silvery  gray  color, 
with  short  legs,  and  in  its  whole  aspect  is  interesting.  I 
did  not  have  an  opportunity  to  learn  many  of  its  habits. 
A  small  animal  called  the  prairie  dog,  abounds  in  this  sec- 
tion of  country.  It  takes  its  name,  not  from  its  appear- 
ance, but  from  its  barking,  which  is  like  that  of  a  very 
small  dog.  It  is  of  a  brown  Cvlor, and  its  fur  is  of  superi- 
or fineness.  It  is  very  shy  r.nd  difficult  to  be  taken.  Was 
it  not  for  this  last  circumste  nee,  I  should  think  it  might  be 
an  important  article  of  trafic.  ' '"  •    '  ' '  '*^' 

Passed,  on  the  21st,  many  uncommonly  interesting  bluffs 
composed  of  indurated  dry ;  many  of  them  very  high,  with 


''V.'! 

•J 


■m 


•4; 

■H 


1-. 


m 


THE  OLD  CASTLE. 


I3te- 


ft  ■; 


I    ■•'!■: 


il 


perpendicular  sides,  and  in  almost  every  imaginable  form, 
'^'^me  appeared  like  strong  fortifications  with  high  citadels ; 
some  like  stately  edifices  with  lofty  towers.  I  had  never 
before  seen  any  thing  like  them  of  clay  formation.  And 
what  adds  to  their  beauty  is,  that  the  clay  of  which  they 
are  composed,  is  nearly  white.  Such  is  the  smoothness,  and 
regularity,  and  whiteness,  of  the  perpendicular  sides  and 
offsets  ;  and  such  the  regularity  of  their  straight  and  curv. 
ed  lines,  that  one  can  hardly  believe  that  they  are  not  the 
work  of  art. 

It  was  a  very  warm  day.  The  thermometer  stood  at  noon 
at  90°,  and  five  o'clock  P.  M .  at  100°.  There  were  no  prai. 
rie  winds  as  usual.  Almost  every  day  winds  blow  over  the 
prairies  like  sea  breezes,  or  trade  winds.  They  generally 
commence  about  eight  in  the  morning,  and  continue  through 
the  day.  These  winds  render  it  comfortable  traveling,  al. 
though  the  thermometer  may  range  high. 

Encamped  to-day  near  what  I  shall  call  the  old  castle, 
which  is  a  great  natural  curiosity.  It  is  situated  upon  the 
south  side  of  the  Platte,  on  a  plain,  some  miles  distant  from 
any  elevated  land,  and  covers  more  than  an  acre  of  ground, 
and  is  more  than  fifty  feet  high.  It  has,  at  the  distance  of 
the  width  of  the  river,  all  the  appearance  of  an  old  enor- 
mous  building,  somewhat  dilapidated ;  but  still  you  see  the 
standing  walls,  the  roof,  the  turrets,  embrasures,  the  dome, 
and  -^most  the  very  windows ;  and  the  guard  houses,  large, 
and  standing  some  rods  in  front  of  the  main  building.  You 
unconcio'isly  look  around  for  the  enclosure,  but  they  are  all 
swept  away  by  the  lapse  of  time — for  the  inhabitants,  but 
they  have  disappeared  ;  all  is  silent  and  solitary.  Although 
you  correct  your  imagination,  and  call  to  remembrance, 
that  you  are  beholding  the  work  of  nature,  yet  before  you 
are  aware,  the  illusion  takes  you  again,  and  again  your  cu* 
riosity  is  excited  to  know  who  built  this  fabric,  and  what 
have  become  of  the  by  .gone  generations.     I  found  it  im. 


('(In'" 


V.  *i- 


THE  CHIMNEY A  RUN  FOR  LiFE. 


61 


possible  to  divest  myself  of  such  impressions.  The  longer 
and  the  more  minutely  I  examined  it,  the  more  I  saw  to 
admire  ;  and  it  reminded  me  of  those  descriptions  of  power 
and  grandeur  in  ruins,  of  which  we  have  read,  of  ancient 
times  and  nations. 

Encamped  at  noon  of  the  22nd,  near  another  of  nature's 
wonders.  It  has  been  called  the  chimney ;  but  I  should 
say,  it  ought  to  be  called  beacon  hill,  from  its  resemblance 
to  what  was  beacon  hill  in  Boston.  Being  anxious  to  have 
a  near  view,  although  in  a  land  of  dangers,  I  concluded  to 
take  an  assistant  and  pass  over  the  river  to  it.  The  river 
where  we  crossed  was  about  a  mile  wide,  shallow  and  full 
of  quicksand,  but  we  passed  it  without  any  particular  dif- 
ficulties. We  rode  about  three  miles  over  a  level  plain,  and 
came  to  the  base.  This  distance  from  the  other  side  of 
the  river  did  not  appear  more  than  a  mile,  so  deceptive  are 
distances  over  plains  without  any  landmarks.  This  beacon 
hill  has  a  conical  formed  base  of  about  half  a  mile  in  cir- 
cumference, and  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height ;  and 
above  this  a  perpendicular  column,  twelve  feet  square,  and 
eighty  feet  high ;  making  the  whole  height  about  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty  feet.  We  left;  our  horses  at  the  base,  and 
ascended  to  the  perpendicular.  It  is  formed  of  indurated 
clay  or  marl  ,and  in  some  parts,  is  petrified.  It  is  of  a 
light  chocolate,  or  rufous  color,  in  some  parts  white.  Near 
the  top  were  some  handsome  stalactites,  at  which  my  assis- 
tant shot,  and  broke  off  some  pieces,  of  which  I  have  taken 
a  small  specimen.  We  descended,  and  having  finished  my 
survey,  had  but  just  mounted  our  horses,  when  we  saw 
two  bands  of  bufl'alo,  six  or  eight  hundred  in  number  com- 
ing full  speed  towards  us,  taking  their  course  down  the 
river.  We  knew  some  body  must  be  pursuing  them,  and 
as,  from  indications  for  two  days  past,  we  had  suspected 
Indians  near,  we  thought  it  would  be  the  safest  for  us  to 

make  and  secure  a  speedy  retreat  to   the  caravan,  and  set 
6 


--■  <  I  ■">    '[>*»/•     • 


^''T:t'. 


m: 


■  M 


.  ■,■•»■ 

■';•',  J- 
■      '''   Tt 


SCOTT  S  BLUFFS. 

off  in  haste  for  the  river,  which  at  the  nearest  point  was 
two  miles  distant.  Very  soon  we  saw  a  man  on  horse. 
back  coming  full  speed  towards  us — he  stopped  and  gave  a 
signal  for  others  behind  him  to  hasten  on,  and  at  once  we 
saw  a  band  of  men  coming  full  rush.  We  put  our  horses 
to  their  utmost  speed,  and  when  we  thought  our  retreat  to 
the  river  fully  secured,  we  stopped  and  took  an  observation 
with  a  large  spy -glass,  which  we  had  taken  the  precaution 
to  have  with  us,  and  found  they  were  white  men,  who  had 
come  from  a  fort  of  the  American  Fur  Company  at  the 
Black  Hills,  to  meet  the  caravan.  Mr.  Fontenelle,  the  com. 
mander  of  the  caravan,  saw  the  movement,  was  alarmed 
for  our  safety,  and  came  out  in  all  haste,  with  a  number  of  \ 
armed  men,  to  our  assistance.  But  all  resulted  in  friends 
meeting  friends.  There  were  some  Ogallallah  Indians  near 
us,  who  came  to  our  camp  in  the  evening.  Thermom- 
eter  90°. 

On  the  23d,  after  traveling  a  few  miles,  we  encamped  near 
Scott's  bluffs.  These  are  the  termination  of  a  high  range 
of  land  running  from  south  to  north.  They  are  very  near 
the  river,  high  and  abrupt,  and  what  is  worthy  of  notice, 
there  is  a  pass  through  the  range  a  short  distance  back  from 
the  river,  the  width  of  a  common  road,  with  perpendicular 
sides  two  or  three  hundred  feet  high.  It  appears  as  though 
the  part  forming  the  bluffs  had  been  cut  off,  and  moved  a 
few  rods  to  the  north.  Instead  of  journeying,  the  natural- 
ist would  desire  weeks  to  examine  the  interesting  scenery 
of  this  section  of  country,  and  the  more  minute  his  exam. 
ination  the  more  would  his  curiosity  be  gratified. 

This  whole  country  appears  to  abound  in  magnesia,  so 
that  epsom  salts  are  found  in  almost  every  part ;  in  some 
places  in  large  quantites  in  a  crystalized  state.  Our  her- 
ses  and  mules  were  disposed  to  make  these  a  substitute  for 
common  salt.     Thermometer  to  day  stood  at  90°. 

While  we  were  encamped  at  noon  of  the  24th,  and  our 


'I. 


AN  ALARM THE  OGALLALLAIIS. 


63 


liorses  and  mules  were  turned  out  under  guard,  and  we  were 
preparing  our  breakfast,  or  what  should  be  dinner,  we  were 
alarmed  with  the  call,  "  secure  your  animals !  secure  your 
animals  !"  I  looked  around  to  see  what  was  the  cause  of 
the  alarm,  and  saw  at  about  a  mile  and  a  half  distance,  a 
considerable  number  of  Indians  coming  on  horse  back  at 
full  speed.  Wo  had  not  more  than  half  secured  our  animals 
and  prepared  for  defence,  when  the  Indians  were  close  upon 
us ;  whether  friends  or  foes  we  could  not  tell,  until  they 
were  nearly  within  rifle  shot,  when  they,  according  to  cus- 
tom, as  an  expression  of  friendship,  fired  their  guns  into  the 
air,  and  then  rushed  into  our  camp,  and  exchanged  saluta- 
tions of  peace.  They  were  Ogallallahs,  headed  by  eight  of 
their  chiefs.  They  were  clad  in  their  war  habiliments,  and 
made  somewhat  of  a  terrific  appearance.  The  chiefs  dined 
with  us,  were  very  talkative  among  themselves ;  for,  not 
having  any  good  interpreter,  we  could  not  join  in  conversa- 
tion with  them.  Every  thing,  however,  went  on  pleasantly, 
and  to  mutual  satisfaction.  They  told  us  their  whole  vil- 
lage was  only  a  few  hours  travel  ahead  of  us,  going  to  the 
Black  Hills  for  the  purpose  of  trading. 

On  the  25th,  the  heat  was  very  oppressive  in  the  middle 
of  the  day,  there  not  being  as  much  wind  as  common.  Ther- 
mometer 92°.  Towards  evening  came  to  the  main  village 
of  the  Ogallallahs  consisting  of  more  than  two  thousand 
persons.  These  villages  are  not  stationary,  bul  move  from 
place  to  place,  as  inclination  or  convenience  may  dictate. 
Their  lodges  are  comfortable,  and  easily  transported.  They 
are  composed  of  eight  or  ten  poles  about  eighteen  feet  long. 
When  they  encamp,  these  poles  are  set  up  in  a  circular  form, 
the  small  ends  fastened  together  making  an  apex,  and  the 
large  ends  are  spread  out  so  as  to  enclose  an  area  of  about 
twenty  feet  in  diameter.  The  whole  is  covered  with  their 
coarse  skins,  which  are  elk,  or  buffalo,  taken  when  they  are 
not  good  for  robes.     A  fire  is  made  in  the  centre,  a  hole  be- 


....    ^■■^   >■■.;- 


■.-'r-.ih'l' 


'"■.7- 

■v.; 


'•V  '' 


,     i  '    ■  ■■•■  V.'l 


•1 


Jit  'iil-ij--  1 


h'..! 


•!C 


|ij  .;:■■! 


91  A  SABBATH  AMONG  THEM. 

ing  left  in  the  top  of  the  lodge  for  the  smoke  to  pass  out. 
All  that  they  have  for  household  furniture,  clothing,  and 
skins  for  beds,  is  deposited  around  according  to  their  ideas 
of  propriety  and  convenience.  Generally  not  more  than 
one  family  occupies  a  lodge.  These  are  the  finest  looking 
Indians  I  have  ever  seen.  The  men  are  generally  tall  and 
well  proportioned  ;  the  women  are  trim  and  less  pendulous 
than  what  is  common  among  Indian  women,  and  all  were 
well  dressed,  and  for  heathen,  cleanly.  They  came  around 
us  in  multitude?,  and  manifested  great  curiosity  to  see  what, 
ever  we  had.  1  did  not  know  why,  but  my  boots  were  par. 
ticularly  examined,  probably  they  had  never  seen  any  before, 
as  moccasons  are  worn  not  only  by  Indians,  but  also  by  tra. 
ders  and  hunters. 

Sabbath,  26th.  The  caravan  moved  on  a  little  way  to 
the  crossing  place  of  the  Platte,  near  Larama*s  fork  in  the 
IMack  Hills,  and  encamped  for  the  day.  This  gave  us  an 
opportunity  for  reading  and  devotion.  Some  of  the  Ogal. 
lallahs  came  to  my  tent  while  I  was  reading  the  bible,  and 
observed  me  so  attentively,  that  I  was  led  to  believe  that  they 
were  desirous  to  know  what  I  was  doing,  and  why  I  was 
spending  my  time  in  retirement.  I  endeavored  to  make 
them  understand  by  the  language  of  signs,  that  I  was  read- 
ing  the  book  of  God,  which  teaches  us  how  to  worship  him, 
and  I  read  to  them  aloud,  and  showed  them  how  they  must 
read,  and  they  pronounced  letters  and  words  after  me. 
When  we  in  this  way  read  the  word  Lord,  I  endeavored  to 
teach  them  its  meaning,  and  that  He  is  to  be  worshiped. 
After  spending  some  time  in  these  exercises,  I  sang  a  hymn, 
which  greatly  interested  them.  They  took  me  by  the 
hand,  and  the  expression  of  their  countenance  seemed  to 
say,  we  want  to  know  what  all  this  means,  and  why  you  em. 
ploy  your  time  so  differently  from  others  ?  My  spirit  was 
pained  within  me,  and  I  anxiously  desired  to  understand 
their  language,  that  I  might  tell  them  about  Christ,  the  only 


•14 


CROSSED  THE  PLATTE. 


65 


Savior.  The  enquiry  arose  forcibly  in  my  mind,  why 
will  not  some  of  the  many  christian  young  men  of  the  east, 
exercise  so  much  self-denial,  if  it  can  be  called  self-denial,  as 
to  come  and  teach  them  the  way  of  salvation  ?  Would  it 
be  a  cross  to  be  engaged  in  such  heavenly  work  ?  In  such 
a  cross  what  christian  would  not  glory  ?  And  if  there 
should  be  any  tribulations  attendant  on  the  enterprise, 
would  they  not,  like  St.  Paul,  glory  in  tribulations  ? 

At  evening  passed  over  the  Platte,  and  went  a  mile  and  a 
half  up  to  the  fort  of  the  Black  Hills,  and  encamped  near 
the  fort  in  our  usual  form,  ,  .-^ 


'f':7j'A 


^'^*;,V.:  vi,|■.|• 


m 


Mm 


,    ■  *- 


•   ,5r'  /     t 

3' 


v/:  • 


ViV. 


'■'■^,.^rl 


.i':^;'., 


.M-. 


•.■■;;  'i 


>■■■  ,yijf^ 


f 


66 


BLACK  HILLS — A  MURDEROUS  DESIGN. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


UA 


^.■■.'    •• 


Black  Hills — day  of  indulgence — buffalo  danco--fhc  desire  of  Indians 
for  instruction— met  the  chiefs  in  council— re-commenced  our  journey 
for  rendezvous — Anthracite  coal — species  of  wormwood — Red  Bute- 
Traces  of  grizzly  bears — geology — Rock  Independence— Rocky  Moun- 
tains— perpetual  snow — valley  through  the  mountains — "  thunder  spir- 
its" gone — an  alarm — waters  of  the  Colorado. 

The  Black  Hills.  There  is  nothing  in  the  color  of  the 
soil  or  rocks  to  give  them  this  name,  but  they  are  so  called 
from  their  being  covered  with  shrubby  cedars,  which  give 
them  a  dark  appearance  when  seen  at  a  distance.  The  al- 
liivial  soil  upon  the  rivers  and  in  the  vallies  is  very  good,  but 
upon  the  higher  lands  and  hills,  the  soil  is  thin  and  rather 
barren,  and  in  many  parts  full  of  stones  which  are  worn 
smooth  by  the  action  of  water,  and  are  of  various  kinds 
and  forms.  One  spur  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  is  seen  from 
this  place,  which  is  forty  or  fifty  miles  distant,  and  is  prob- 
ably  five  thousand  feet  high. 

A  day  of  indulgence  was  given  to  the  men,  in  which  they 
drink  as  much  as  they  please,  and  conduct  as  they  may 
choose.  It  was  found  that  ardent  spirits  excited  so  many 
evil  spirits,  that  they  may  be  called  legion. 

A  Mr.  G.  shot  a  man  by  the  name  of  Van  B.  with  the  full 
intention  to  kill  him.  The  ball  entered  the  back  and  came 
out  at  the  side.  Van  B.  exclaimed,  "I  am  a  dead  man  ;" 
and  after  a  little  pause  said,  "no,  I  am  not  hurt."  G.  on 
this  seized  a  rifle  to  finish  the  work,  but  was  prevented  by 
8ome  men  standing  by,  who  took  it  from  him  and  fired  it 
into  the  air. 

Twenty.cighth.     The  day  of  indulgence  being  past*  a 


BO  manv 


BUFFALO  AND  DOG  DANCE. 


67 


quiet  day  followed.  The  exhilaration  was  followed  by  con- 
sequent relaxation,  and  the  tide  of  spirits  which  arose  so 
iiigh  yesterday,  ebbed  to-day  proportionably  low.  The 
men  were  seen  lounging  about  in  listless  idleness,  and  could 
scarcely  be  roused  to  the  business  of  making  repairs  and 
arrangements,  for  the  long  journey  yet  before  us.  The  In- 
dians were  active,  and  manifested  a  disposition  to  be  socia- 
ble and  kind,  and  also  to  open  a  trade  with  us  in  various  ar- 
ticles, such  as  moccasons,  belts,  and  dressed  skins  ;  and 
wanted  in  return  knives,  awls,  combs,  vermilion,  &c. 

Although  the  nights  were  cool,  yet  the  thermometer  stood 
in  the  middle  of  the  day  at  98°,  but  the  heat  was  relieved 
by  the  customary  prairie  winds. 

On  the  29th,  the  Indians  had  a  buffalo  and  dog  dance. 
I  witnessed  the  former,  and  was  content  to  dispense  with 
the  latter.  In  the  buffalo  dance,  a  large  number  of 
young  men,  dressed  with  the  skins  of  the  neck  and  head  of 
buffalos,  with  their  horns  on,  moved  around  in  a  dancing 
march.  They  shook  their  heads,  made  the  low  bellowing 
of  the  buffalo,  wheeled,  and  jumped.  At  the  same  time  men 
and  women  sung  a  song,  accompanied  with  the  beating  of 
a  sort  of  drum.  I  cannot  say  I  was  much  amused  to  see 
how  well  they  could  imitate  brute  beasts,  while  ignorant  of 
God  and  salvation.  The  impressive  enquiry  was  constantly 
on  my  mind,  what  will  become  of  their  immortal  spirits? 
Rational  men  imitating  beasts,  and  old  gray-headed  men 
mars^ialling  the  dance  !  and  enlightened  whites  encourag- 
ing them  by  giving  them  intoxicating  spirits,  as  a  reward 
for  their  good  performance.  I  soon  retired,  and  was  pleased 
to  find,  that  only  a  small  part  of  the  Indians  took  any  part 
in  the  dance. 

One  of  tho  men,  whom  I  tried  to  instruct  last  sabbath, 
came  to  mo  again,  and  wished  mo  to  instruct  him  onco 
more.  Which  I  did,  and  endeavored  to  point  him  to  God  ; 
and  sang  the  hymn,  "Watchman,  tell  us  of  the  night.'* 


■  ';;   *>    'Kt. 

■'i  |«'L      •  >"'»^    ill 
V  1,1,  C-i  ..-•'* 

•  ••:  •;'»fi>'-'^-^ 

'  ■'('■  ■'■'',  '''i^'' 

<■     J    .  •  n  ■(•;.•. 
:  ■'  ■       V  '  ■\'r 

•      *     ,'  Hi 


:'  '  '■  ':■■'"■'■''* 


•0.J-' 


V 


'  1.' 
1 

■     [ 
r 


4-K  • . 


68 


COUNCIL  WITH  THE  SIOUX. 


He,  and  some  others  with  him,  shook  hands  witli  me,  as  a 
token  of  their  satisfaction.  He  went  away  and  brought 
others  with  him,  and  I  went  throujili  the  same  exercise 
again  ;  and  they  again  shook  hands  with  me.  This  was 
several  times  repeated.  These  Indians  appear  not  only 
friendly  to  white  men,  but  also  towards  each  other.  I  saw 
no  quarreling  among  them.  Their  minds  are  above  the  or. 
dinary  stamp,  and  the  forms  of  their  pt^'sons  are  fine- 
Many  of  them  arc  "  nature's  grenadiers."  The  women  also 
are  well  formed,  their  voices  are  soft  and  expressive,  and 
their  movements  graceful.  I  was  agreeably  surprised  to 
see  tall  young  chiefs,  well  dressed  in  their  mode,  leading  by 
the  arm  their  ladies.  This  was  not  what  I  expected  to  sec 
amonff  "  savages."  It  is  true  thev  are  heathen  in  all  the 
guilt  of  sin,  and  without  God  in  the  world,  and  without 
hope  ;  but  in  decency  and  politeness,  as  well  as  in  many 
other  particulars,  they  differ  from  those  Indians  on  onr 
frontiers,  who  have  had  more  intercourse  with  bad  white 
men,  and  who  have  had  access  to  whiskey. 

On  tlie  30th,  met  in  council  with  the  cliiefs  of  this  trilr, 
to  lay  before  them  the  object  of  our  tour,  and  to  know  if 
they  would  wish  to  have  missionaries  sent  among  thom  to 
teach  them  to  read  and  write,  and  esj)ccially  how  to  wor. 
ship  God.  They  expressed  much  satisfaction  with  the  pro. 
posal,  and  said  they  would  do  all  they  could  to  nmke  tlioir 
condition  comfortable.  There  can  be  no  doubt,  tliat  tluH 
community  of  the  Sioux  would  be  a  promising  field  for  la- 
borers. They  are  inquisitive,  and  their  langunge  is  dis. 
tinct  and  sonorous. 

Nothing  special  occurred  on  the  31st.  Thermometer 
stoo«iat81°. 

August  1st.  At  half  past  eight  in  the  morning,  wc  re- 
commenced  our  journey,  and  our  next  point  is  across  the 
Rocky  Mountain  where  th(»  general  rendezvous  will  bo  held. 
Our  wagons  were  left  at  the  fort  of  the  Black  Hills,  an:i  all 


ANTHRACITE  COAL. 


dO* 


our  goods  were  packed  upon  mules.  Several  of  our  com- 
pany went  out  into  various  parts  of  this  country  to  hunt 
and  trap,  but  as  many  more  joined  us  for  the  mountains,  so 
that  our  number  is  about  as  great  as  it  has  been.  Mr. 
Fontenelle  stc'{»p.?d  at  the  fort,  and  Mr.  Fitz  Patrick  took 
his  place  in  ciiarge  of  the  caravan.  When  we  called  for 
our  bill,  Mr.  Fontenelle  said  he  had  none  against  us  ;  for  if 
any  one  was  indebted,  it  was  himself,  for  what  Doct.  Whit- 
man had  done  for  him  and  his  men.  We  received  from  hira 
and  his  men  many  kind  attentions,  which  we  shall  grate- 
fully  remember. 

Sabbath,  2nd.      Had  some  opportunities  for  devotional 
exercises,  but  felt  the  loss  of  the  privileges  of  God's  house. 

We  found  on  the  3d  but  very  little  grass  for  our  horses 
and  mules,  owing  to  three  causes  ;  the  sterility  of  the  soil, 
the  proximity  to  the  snow-topped  mountains,  and  the  graz- 
ing of  numerous  buffaloes  and  antelopes.  To  save  tlie  dis- 
tance of  following  the  bends  of  the  river,  we  passed  to- 
day over  some  rough  and  somewhat  dangerous  precipices* 
I  found  to-day,  and  also  before  we  arrived  at  the  Black 
Hills,  some  specimens  of  anthracite  coal.  Mr.  Fontenelle 
said  this  was  the  first  discovery  of  coal  in  this  region  of 
country.  If  it  should  be  found  in  great  quantities,  it  will 
supply  for  fuel  the  want  of  wood.  There  are  appearances 
of  iron  ore,  and  also  of  volcanic  eruptions.  A  range  of 
mountains,  a  spur  of  which  is  seen  from  Larama's  fork  in 
the  Black  Hills,  runs  parallel  with  the  river  at  ten  or  fifteen 
miles  distant,  and  some  of  the  peaks  are  very  high. 

August  4th.  The  country  was  more  level  and  fertile.  I 
I  discovered  more  anthracite  coal,  and  a|)pearances  which 
indicate  tliat  it  may  be  found  in  large  quantities  ;  also,  in 
one  place,  yellow  snnd  stone  of  reninrkal)ly  fine  texture. 
It  undoubtedly  would  answer  an  excellent  purpose  for  pol- 
ishing  metals.  A  wild  wormwood  grows  in  great  (jiuinti- 
lies  and  very  large'In  this  region,  where  the  soil  is  gravelly 


./^.^^.m 


•v". 


^♦'.v  :A 


■  ■■■'■  ■■  n% .! 


'^ 


V.  i 


V    •' 


' . .'  ••• 


-if 


•■r 


wM^'i 


|jf«;»i' 


70 


GRIZZLY  BEARS. 


and  barren.     Some  of  it  grows  eight  or  ten  feet  high,  and 
four  or  five  inches  in  diameter,  and  is  an  obstruction  to 
travehng.     It  is  generally  called  wild  sage.     Scarcely  any  I 
animal  will  taste  it  unless  compelled  by  extreme  hunger,  | 
The  prairie  hen  crops  its  buds  or  leaves,  which  renders  its  | 
flesh  bitter  and  unpalatable  for  food.      I  saw  some  granite  ^ 
to-day  of  a  dark  gray  color,  like  the  granite  in  the  At.  | 
lantic  states.      What  I  had  seen  before  in  boulders  was  of  j 
the  red  cast,  like  that  which  is  found  about  lake  Superior; 
but  very  little  of  this  since  we  left  the  United  States. 

On  the  5th,  we  arose  at  the  first  breaking  of  day  andj 
proceeded  on  our  route,  making  forced  marches  through  | 
this   barren  region.      Encamped  towards  night  at  a  place  I 
called  the  Red  Bute,  which  is  a  high  bluff*  of  land,  of  tlie 
color  of  red  ochre,  but  composed  of  clay  somewhat  indura. 
ted.     This  is  a  central  place  for  Indians  traveling  east  or  | 
west,  north  or  south.      Here  the  north-west  branch  of  the 
Platte,  along  which  we  have  been  traveling,  comes  from  a  I 
southern  direction,  the  head  of  which  is  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  distant.      From  the  Red  Bute  we  pass  over 
to  the  Sweetwater,  a  brunch  of  the  Platte,  which  comes 
from  the  west,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  purity.      We  saw| 
to-day  tracks  of  grizzly  bears,  which  were  perfectly  fresh, 
One  with  a  large  cub  passed  out  of  some  gooseberry  and 
currant  bushes  near  the  river,  as  ve  proceeded  around  to  anl 
open  spot  of  ground  for  an  encamping  place.     I  did  not 
have  an  opportunity  to  see  them,  but  their  tracks  manifest 
them  to  be  frightful.     Their  strength  is  astonishingly  great. 
Lieut.  Stien  of  the  dragoons,  a  man  of  undoubted  veracity, 
told  me  he  saw  some  buffaloes  passing  near  some  bushes, 
where  a  grizzly   l)ear  lay  concealed  ;    the  liear  with  onr 
stroke  tore  three  ribs  from  a  buffalo  and  laid  it  dead.     It 
has  been  said,  if  you  meet  one  of  those  Injars,  you  must 
either  kill  or  be  killed.     It  is  not  so.     Unless  you  come  up- 
on them  suddenly,  or  wound  them,  il"  you  will  let  them  pass 


ifl 


GEOLOGY. 


71 


off  unmolested,  they  will  in  most  cases  withdraw,  showing 
tliat  it  is  trae  that  tlie  fear  of  man  is  upon  them  as  well  as 
upon  other  beasts. 
Sixth.     The  geology  of  these  regions  is  becoming  more 

I  interesting,  as  we  draw  near  the  mountains.  I  saw  to-day, 
not  only  considerable  granite  in  situ,  but  also  a  considera- 

Ible  quantity  of  the  most  beautiful  serpentine  I  ever  beheld, 

jit  was  semi-transparent,  and  very  deep  green.  I  very  much 
wislicd  to  take  some  specimens,  but  my  journey  was  too  long 
and  too  far  west.       Encamped  a  few  miles  east  of  Rock 

I  Independence. 

Piissed  Rock  Independence,  on  the  7th.     This  is  the  first 

hnassive  rock  of  that  stupendous  chain  of  mountains,  which 
divides  North  America,  and  forms,  together  wiih  its  bar- 

jrens  on  each  side,  a  natural  division.  This  rock  takes  its 
name  from  the  circumstance  of  a  company  of  fur  traders 

Isuspending  their  journey,  and  here  observing,  in  due  form, 

Ithc  anniversary  of  our  national  freedom.  It  is  an  im- 
monsly  huge  rock  of  solid  gneiss  granite,  entirely  bore  and 

Icovoring  several  acres.     We  came  to  the  Sweetwater,  which 

Ion  account  of  its  purily  deserves  its  name.     In  one  place, 

jit  passes  a  small  braneli  of  the  mountains,  through  a  narrow 
cimsm  only  tiiirty  or  forty  feet  wide,  and  more  than  three 
hundred  feet  high.  The  caravan  passed  around  the  poiijt  of 
this  mountain,  and  to  obtain  a  better  prospect  of  this  nnt- 

|ural  curiosity,  I  left  tlicm  and  rode  to  it.  A  deep-toned  roar  is 
iieard  as  it  dashes  its  way  through  the  rocky  passage.  The 
siwbt  is  soon  intercepted  by  its  winding  course  and  the 
darkness  caused  by  the  narrowness  and  deepness  of  the  av- 
enue. Passed  to-day  several  small  lakes  of  crystalized  ep- 
som  salt,  from  which  the  water  in  Ibe  drouth  of  summer  in 
evaporated.     1  rode  into  one  of  them  to  examine  the  quality 

jund  depth,  but  finding  my  horse  sinking  as  in  quicksand,  I 
was  fv|ad  to  make  a  safe  retreat.     Whatever  may  Ih3  JH'neath, 

j  wiicthcr  salt  in  a  less  solid  state  than  on  the  surface,  or 


yi}<. 


'      '.  ■'    •i.f  vl 
•<.•■.  "'•••v  ''Tr--«i 


'•■•••/  ■ 


)<"^'  •• 


%■ 


lilittf^ 


'li^i; 


ll"  i 


72 


APPROACH  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


quicksand,  yet  tons,  and  perhaps  hundreds  of  tons,  of  good 
quality  might  be  easily  collected. 

The  mountains  are  indeed  rocJcy  mountains.  They  are 
rocks  heaped  upon  rocks,  with  no  vegetation,  excepting  a 
few  cedars  growing  out  of  the  crevices  near  their  base.  | 
Their  tops  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  which  are  seen  s 
on  our  left  and  before  us.  As  we  advanced,  the  atmosphere  ; 
was  increasingly  more  chilling  through  the  night  and  most 
of  the  day,  excepting  the  middle,  which  to-day  was  very  I 
warm  ;  the  thermometer  standing  at  84°. 

Sabbath,  9th.     I  endeavored  to  supj)ly  the  absence  of  the .  | 
privileges  of   the  sanctuary  and  ordinances,  as  well  as  1 . 
could  b)'^  reading  and  recalling  to  mind  portions  of  the  scrip. 
tures,  hymns,  and  the  doctrines  of  our  excellent,  but  neg. 
lected,  catechism.      One  needs  to  be  on  heathen  ground  to 
realize  the  solitariness  of  absence  from  the  social  worship,  | 
where 


"  The  cheerful  songs  and  solemn  vows 
Make  their  communion  sweet." 


On  the  10th,  cold  winds  were  felt  from  the  snow-topped 
mountains  to  an  uncomfortable  degree.  The  passagt; 
through  these  mountains  is  in  a  valley,  so  gradual  in  the  as. 
cent  and  descent,  that  I  should  not  have  known  that  we  were 
passing  them,  had  it  not  been  that  as  we  advanced  the  at. 
mosphere  gradually  becjimc  cooler,  and  at  length  we  found 
the  perpetual  snows  upon  our  right  hand  and  upon  our  leti, 
elevated  many  thousand  feet  above  us — in  some  places  ten 
thousand.  The  highest  part  of  these  mountains  are  found 
by  measurement  to  be  eighteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  Tins  valley  was  not  discovered  until  some 
years  since.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  more  than  twenty 
years  ago,  went  near  it  but  did  not  find  it,  though  in 
search  of  some  favorable  passage.  It  varies  in  width  from 
five  to  twenty  miles  ;  and  following  its  course,  the  distance 


■'.■> 


U'i 


THUNDER  SPIBITS  DEPARTED. 


f$ 


through  the  mountains  is  about  eighty  miles,  oi  four  clays' 
journey.  Though  there  are  some  elevations  and  depres- 
sions in  this  valley,  yet,  comparatively  speaking,  it  is  level. 
There  would  be  no  difficulty  in  the  way  of  constructing  a 
rail  road  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  ocean ;  and  prob- 
ably the  time  may  not  be  very  far  distant,  when  trips  will 
l)e  made  across  the  continent,  as  they  have  been  made  to 
the  Niagara  falls,  to  see  nature's  wonders.  In  passing  the 
Black  Hills  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  we  heard  none  of  those 
"successive  reports  resembling  the  discharge  jf  several 
j)ieces  of  artillery,"  mentioned  by  some  autiiors  as  common 
"  in  the  most  calm  and  serene  weather,  at  all  times  of  the 
(lay  or  night ;"  nor  did  we  witness  "  lightning  and  thunder, 
|H3aling  from  clouds  gathering  round  the  summits  of  the 
hills"  or  mountains.  "  The  thunder  spirits,  who  fabricate 
storms  and  tempests,"  appear  to  have  closed  their  labors, 
and  the  Indian  tribes  no  longer  "  hang  offerings  on  the  trees, 
to  propitiate  the  invisible  lords  of  the  mountains." 

The  geology  presents  some  variety  ;  for  while  the  main 
ridge  of  the  mountains  are  gneiss  granite,  yet  to-day  par- 
jallcl  ridges  of  red  wacke  have  abounded.     These  ridges 
appear  to  be  volcanic,  forced  up  in  dykes,  at  different  dis- 
tances from  each  other,  running  from  east  north-east  to  west 
j  south-west.     The  strata  are  mostly  vertical,  but  some  arc  a 
[little  dipped  to  the  south. 

We  had  an  alarm,  while  we  were  encamped  for  noon, 
I  and  the  men  were  called  to  arms.  They  all  rushed  forth 
full  of  courage,  rather  stimulated  than  appalled  by  danger. 
Only  one  Indian  made  his  appearance  upon  the  hill,  at  the 
loot  of  which  we  were  encamped.  This  was  taken  as  an 
indication  that  others  were  near,  which  was  the  fact ;  but 
[he  and  they  retreated. 

August  11th.     The  last  night  was  very  cold — we  had  a 

I  heavy  frost  with  ice.     A  little  before  sunrise  the  thermom- 

Icter  stood  at  24°.     Our  early  morning  ride  was  not  very 
7 


.1',  I.      1"    •.•';  • 

■'•       ,   'r  ' 'V'  r 
■•ii^t'  "--'•'.•'•Vi.  •■ 


.   :,.f  .' 

■  •  •'  7., 


■f; 


:  1. 


t 

•,  >■■ 

•  I.' 
I. 


jf;.  ■■*  ' 


74 


JADED  ANIMALS. 


riti';' 


comfortable  for  myself,  and  less  so  for  some  of  our  men 
who  were  not  furnished  with  over-coats.  Our  horses  and 
mules  began  to  show  that  constant  labor,  without  sufficient 
food,  was  not  favorable  to  strength,  and  some  of  them  failed. 
Passed  Big  Sandy  river,  one  of  the  upper  branches  of  the 
Colorado,  which  empties  into  the  gulf  of  California.  Along 
its  banks  are  some  Norway  and  pitch  pine,  and  a  very 
few  small  white  pines,  and  also  clumps  of  common  poplar. 
In  some  of  the  low  vales,  there  were  beautiful  little  fresh 
roses,  which  bloomed  amidst  the  desolations  around.  *^  How 
ornamental  are  the  works  of  nature !  She  seems  to  deco. 
rate  them  all,  as  if  each  spot  was  a  garden,  in  which  God 
might  perchance  walk,  as  once  in  Eden."  Encamped  upon 
New  Fork,  a  branch  of  Green  river. 


Ifi   1  vmr 

[(•1   Jli-w/iii: 


■■   ..  I 


<it 


THE  RENDEZVOUS. 


75 


^       /    ^'       CHAPTER  V. 

Arrive  at  rendezvous— trappers  and  hunters— four  Indian  nations— Flat- 
heads  and  Nez  Perces,  no  reason  why  so  called— surgical  operations — 
an  interview  with  the  Flathead  and  Nez  Perce  chiefs- their  anxiety  for 
religious  instruction-  -return  of  Doct.»Whiiman— Shoshones  and  Uf  nws 
—mountain  life. 

On  the  12th,  we  arose  at  the  first  breaking  of  the  day, 
and  continued  our  forced  marches.  Although  we  were 
emerging  from  the  mountains.,  still  peaks  covered  with  per- 
petual snow  were  seen  in  almost  every  direction,  and  the 
temperature  of  the  air  was  uncomfortable.  I  found  to-day 
some  handsome  ealcedony,  of  which  I  took  a  specimen ; 
and  also  green  stone,  quartz,  and  trap  in  large  quantities. 
In  the  afternoon,  came  to  the  Green  river,  a  branch  of  the 
Colorado,  in  latitude  42°,  where  the  caravan  hold  their  ren- 
dezvous. This  is  in  a  widely  extended  valley,  which  is  pleas- 
ant, and  the  soil  sufficiently  fertile  for  cultivation,  if  the 
climate  was  not  so  cold.  It  is  like  the  country  we  have 
passed  through,  an  almost  entire  prairi';,  with  some  woods 
skirting  the  streams  of  water. 

The  American  Fur  Company  have  between  two  and  three 
hundred  men  constantly  in  and  about  the  mountains,  en- 
gaged in  trading,  hunting,  and  trapping.  These  all  assem- 
ble  at  rendezvous  and  bring  in  their  furs,  and  take  new  sup- 
plies for  the  coming  year,  of  clothing,  ammunition,  and  goods 
for  trade  with  the  Indians.  But  few  of  these  ever  return 
to  their  country  and  friends.  Most  of  them  are  constantly 
in  debt  to  the  Company,  and  are  unwilling  to  return  with, 
out  a  fortune  ;  and  year  after  year  passes  away,  while  they 
are  hoping  for  better  success. 


!■- -....r'TH*  ■■'*  '••-til 


'  .'  .)*  "ill 


'■,) 


■f 

%,;r:| 


;.'U 


■'m 


■«•«,  ■ 


H;r 


. .  ■,'1 


.:i   p"Jlii(i', 


DOCT.  WHITMAN. 

Here  were  assembled  many  Indians  belonging  to  fourdif. 
ferent  nations ;  the  Utaws,  Shoshones,  Nez  Perces,  and 
Flatheads ;  who  were  waiting  for  the  caravan  to  exchange 
furs,  horses,  and  dressed  skins,  for  various  articles  of  mer. 
chandise.  I  was  disappointed  to  see  nothing  peculiar  in 
the  shape  of  the  Flathead  Indians,  to  give  them  their  name. 
Who  gave  them  this  name,  or  for  what  reason,  is  not  known. 
Some  suppose  it  was  given  them  in  derision  for  not  flatten, 
ing  their  heads,  as  the  Chenooks  and  some  other  nations  do, 
near  the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  It  may  be  so,  but  how  will 
those,  who  indulge  this  imagination,  account  for  the  Nez 
Perces  being  so  called,  since  they  do  not  jpierce  their  no. 
ses  ?  This  name  could  not  be  given  them  in  derision,  be. 
cause  those  near  the  Pacific,  who  flatten  their  heads,  also 
pierce  their  noses.  That  those  names  are  given  by  white 
men,  without  any  known  reason,  is  evident  from  the  fact, 
that  they  do  not  call  each  other  by  the  names  which  signi. 
fy  either  flat  head  or  pierced  nose. 

While  we  continued  in  this  place,  Doct.  Whitman  was 
called  to  perform  some  very  important  surgical  operations. 
He  extracted  an  iron  arrow,  three  inches  long,  from  the 
back  of  Capt.  Bridger,  which  he  had  received  in  a  skirmish 
three  years  before,  with  tlie  Blackfeet  Indians.  It  was  a 
difficult  operation  in  consequence  of  the  arrow  being  hooked 
at  the  point  by  striking  a  large  bone,  and  a  cartilaginous 
substance  had  grown  around  it.  The  doctor  pursued  the 
operation  with  great  self-possession  and  perseverance  ;  and 
Capt.  Bridger  manifested  equal  firmness.  The  Indians 
looked  on  while  the  operation  was  proceeding  with  coun- 
tenances indicating  wonder,  and  when  they  saw  the  arrow, 
expressed  their  astonishment  in  a  manner  peculiar  to  them- 
selves. The  skill  of  Doct.  Whitman,  undoubtedly  made 
upon  them  a  favorable  impression.  He  also  took  another 
arrow  from  under  the  shoulder  of  one  of  the  hunters,  which 
had  been  there  two  years  and  a  half.     After  these  opera- 


li 


, 


\ 


M 


AN  INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  CHIEFS. 


77 


tions,  calls  for  surgical   and  medical  aid   were  constant 
every  hour  in  the  day. 

After  spending  a  few  days  in  collecting  and  digesting  in- 
formation in  regard  to  this  country  and  the  condition  of 
the  people,  we  had  an  interesting  interview  with  the  chiefs 
of  the  Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads,  and  laid  before  them  the 
object  of  our  appointment,  and  explained  to  them  the  be- 
nevolent  desires  o(  christians  concerning  them.  We  then 
enquired  whether  they  wished  to  have  teachers  come  among 
them  and  instruct  them  in  the  knowledge  of  God,  his  wor- 
ship, and  the  way  to  be  saved  ;  and  what  they  would  do  to 
aid  them  in  their  labors.  The  oldest  chief  of  the  Flatheads 
arose,  and  said,  he  was  old,  and  did  not  expect  to  know 
much  more ;  he  was  deaf  and  could  not  hear,  but  his  heart 
was  made  glad,  very  glad,  to  see  what  he  had  never  seen  be. 
fore,  a  man  near  to  God,  (meaning  a  minister  of  the  gospel.) 
_  Next  arose  Insala,  the  most  influential  chief  among  the 
19  Flathead  nation,  and  said,  he  had  heard,  a  man  near  to 
God  was  coming  to  visit  them,  and  he,  with  some  of  his 
people  joined  with  some  white  men,  went  out  three  days' 
journey  to  meet  him,  but  missed  us.  A  war  party  of  Crow 
Indiana  came  upon  them,  and  took  away  some  of  their  hor- 
SOS,  and  one  from  him  which  he  greatly  loved,  but  now  he 
forgets  all,  his  heart  is  made  so  glad  to  see  a  man  near  to 
God.    There  was  a  short  battle,  but  no  lives  lost. 

The  first  chief  of  the  Nez  Perces,  Tai-quin-watish,  arose 
and  said,  he  had  heard  from  white  men  a  little  about  God, 
which  had  only  gone  into  his  ears ;  he  wished  to  know 
enough  to  have  it  go  down  into  his  heart,  to  influence  his 
life,  and  to  teach  his  people.  Others  spoke  to  the  same 
import,  and  they  all  made  as  many  promises  as  we  could 
desire. 

The  Nez  Perce  and  Flathead  Indians  present  a  promising 
field  for  missionary  labor,  which  is  white  for  the  harvest, 

and  the  indications  of  divine  providence  in  regard  to  it  are 

7* 


n.' 


:^i\ 


'  *i'i 


I.  .♦•■ 


•  ■:     -U 


.  f 


78 


DOCT.  WHITMAN  S  PROPOSAL. 


plain,  by  their  anxiety  to  obtain  christian  knowledge.  Talc. 
ing  the  various  circumstances  under  deliberate  and  prayer, 
ful  consideration,  in  regard  to  th*.  fniiajis,  we  came  to  the 
conclusion,  that,  though  many  ocl;  ij*  liiiportant  stations 
might  be  found,  this  would  be  one.  So  desirable  did  this 
object  appear,  that  Doct.  Whitman  proposed  to  return  with 
the  caravan  and  to  obtain  associates  to  come  out  with  him 
the  next  year,  with  the  then  returning  caravan,  and  estab. 
lish  a  mission  among  these  people,  and  by  so  doing,  save  at 
least  a  year,  in  bringing  the  gospel  among  them.  In  view 
of  the  importance  of  the  object,  I  readily  consented  to  the 
proposal,  and  to  go  alone  with  the  Indians  the  remainder  of 
my  exploring  tour.  Dr.  Whitman  on  further  consideration 
felt  some  misgivings  about  leaving  me  to  go  alone  with  the 
Indians,  lest,  if  any  calamity  should  befall  me,  he  should  be 
blamed  by  the  christian  public.  I  told  him  to  give  himself 
no  uneasiness  upon  this  subject ;  for  we  could  not  go  safely 
together  without  divine  protection,  and  with  it,  I  could  go 
alone.  I  felt  no  reluctance  to  the  undertaking  ;  having  a 
confidence  that  the  presence  of  God  would  go  with  me,  and 
that  He  would  in  his  providence  provide  for,  and  protect 
me. 

Met  with  the  chiefs  again  by  appointment,  and  had  much 
the  same  conversation  as  before.  I  stated  to  them  the  con. 
templated  return  of  Doct.  Whitman.  They  were  much 
pleased,  and  promised  to  assist  me,  and  to  send  a  convoy 
with  me  from  their  country  to  Fort  Walla  Walla  on  tho 
Columbia  river.  They  selected  one  of  their  principal 
young  men  for  my  particular  assistant,  as  long  as  I  should 
have  need  of  him,  who  was  called  Kentuc  ;  and  I  engaged 
a  voyageur,  who  understood  English,  and  also  Nez  Perce 
sufficiently  well  to  interpret  in  common  business,  and  some 
of  the  plain  truths  of  our  holy  religion,  to  go  with  me  while 
I  should  continue  with  these  tribes.       i  ?  r  >iuHt      ^' t  ' 

We  did  not  call  together  the  chiefs  of  the  Shoshones  and 


A  BLOODY  COMBAT. 


79 


Utaws,  to  propose  the  subject  of  missions  among  them,  lest 
we  should  excite  expectations  which  would  not  soon  be  ful- 
filed.  We  were  more  cautious  upon  this  subject,  because  it 
is  difficult  to  make  an  Indian  understand  the  diflerence  be. 
tween  a  proposal  and  promise.  The  Shoshones  are  a  very 
numerous  nation,  and  appear  friendly.  They  are  probably 
most  destitute  of  the  necessaries  of  life  of  any  Indians  west 
of  the  mountains.  Their  country  lies  south-west  of  the 
south-east  branch  of  the  Columbia,  and  is  said  to  be  the 
most  barren  of  any  part  of  the  country  in  these  western 
regions.  They  are  often  called  Snakes  and  Root  Diggers, 
from  being  driven  to  these  resorts  to  sustain  life  ;  and  parts 
of  the  year  they  suffer  greatly  from  hunger  and  cold. — 
They  are  more  squalid  than  any  Indians  I  have  seen ;  but 
their  poverty  does  not  lessen  their  need  of  salvation  through 
Christ.  The  Utaws  are  decent  in  their  appearance,  and 
their  country,  which  is  toward  Santa  Fe,  is  said  to  be  tol- 
erably  good.  '  .'•..- 

A  few  days  after  our  arrival  at  the  place  of  rendezvous, 
and  when  all  the  mountain  men  had  assembled,  another  day 
of  indulgence  was  granted  to  them,  in  which  all  restraint 
was  laid  aside.  These  days  are  the  climax  of  the  hunter's 
happiness.  I  will  relate  an  occurrence  which  took  place 
near  evening,  as  a  specimen  of  mountain  life,  A  hunter, 
who  goes  technically  by  the  name  of  the  great  bully  of 
the  mountains,  mounted  his  horse  with  a  loaded  rifle,  and 
challenged  any  Frenchman,  American,  Spaniard,  or  Dutch- 
man, to  fight  him  in  single  combat.  Kit  Carson,  an  Amer- 
ican, told  him  if  he  wished  to  die,  he  would  accept  the  chal- 
lenge. Shunar  defied  him — C.  mounted  his  horse,  and 
with  a  loaded  pistol  rushed  into  close  contact,  and  both  al- 
most at  the  same  instant  fired.  C.'s  ball  entered  S.'s  hand, 
came  out  at  the  wrist,  and  passed  through  the  arm  above 
the  elbow.  S.*s  ball  passed  over  the  head  of  C.  and  while 
he  went  for  another  pistol,  Shunar  begged  that  his  life  might 


;■,  .^^tWv-./.f : 

^■^ir,■.^:■:.^■]., 

I  •  ■*.  .     .*.i'  .       '••    ;, 

- «  .  ..  l-l.'M 

'•••'.  .•■■  <.;' 


•^-•>':  . 


..   ♦  . 


1  '    .s" 


■  •'V 


■    ,  'f 

:   y 

-J- 


■  •  .»'•  t- 


.•V. 


*'^;--- 


80 


HOUNTAIN  LIFE. 


fe..'ir- 


■;*^'r:-:i 


I'"    'f 

I 


It   , 


'  ■  ;1  ■ 


J\m: 


be  spared.  Such  scenes,  some  times  from  passion,  and 
some  times  for  amusement,  make  the  pastime  of  their  wild 
and  wandering  life.  They  appear  to  have  sought  for  a 
place  where,  as  they  would  say,  human  nature  is  not  op. 
pressed  by  the  tyranny  of  religion,  and  pleasure  is  not  awed 
by  the  frown  of  virtue.  The  fruits  are  visible  in  all  the 
varied  forms  to  which  human  nature,  without  the  restraints 
of  civil  government,  and  cultivated  and  polished  society, 
may  be  supposed  to  yield.  In  the  absence  of  all  those 
motives,  which  they  would  feel  in  moral  and  religious  soci. 
ety,  refinement,  pride,  a  sense  of  the  worth  of  character, 
and  even  conscience,  give  place  to  unrestrained  dissolute, 
ness.  Their  toils  and  privations  are  so  great,  that  they 
are  not  disposed  to  take  upon  themselves  the  labor  of  climb, 
ing  up  to  the  temple  of  science.  And  yet  they  are  proficients 
in  one  study,  the  study  of  profuseness  of  language  in  their 
oaths  and  blasphemy.  They  disdain  common>place  phrases 
which  prevail  among  the  impious  vulgar  in  civiUzed  coun> 
tries,  and  have  many  set  phrases,  which  they  appear  to  have 
manufactured  among  themselves,  which  they  have  commit, 
ted  to  memory,  and  which,  in  their  imprecations,  they  bring 
into  almost  every  sentence  and  on  all  occasions.  By  vary. 
ing  the  tones  of  their  voices,  they  make  them  expressive  of 
joy,  hope,  grief,  and  anger.  In  their  broils  among  them- 
selves, which  do  not  happen  every  day,  they  would  not 
be  ungenerous.  They  would  see  "  fair  play,"  and  would 
*' spare  the  last  eye ;"  and  would  not  tolerate  murder,  unless 
drunkeness  or  great  provocation  could  be  pleaded  in  extco* 
uation  of  guilt. 

Their  demoralizing  influence  with  the  Indians  has  been 
lamentable,  and  they  have  imposed  upon  them,  in  all  the 
ways  that  sinful  propensities  dictate.  It  is  said  they  have 
sold  them  packs  of  cards  at  high  prices,  calling  them  the 
bible ;  and  have  told  them,  if  they  should  refuse  to  give  white 
men  wives,  God  would  be  angry  with  them  and  punish  thcni 


'■"'.■JJV-I'^ 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  A  JOURNEY, 


81 


lon,  and 
heir  wild 
ght  for  a 
s  not  op. 
not  awed  \ 
in  all  the  ( | 
restraints 
1  society,  I 
all  those 
ious  soc!. 
jharacter, 
dissolute, 
that  they 
r  of  climb, 
proficients 
re  in  their  1 
ce  phrases 
ized  coun* 
par  to  have 
e  commit, 
ley  bring 
By  vary- 
)res8ive  of  I 
ong  theni> 
ivould  not 
ind  would 
er,  unless 
in  exten* 


eternally  :  and  on  almost  any  occasion  when  their  wishes 
have  been  resisted,  they  have  threatened  them  with  the 
wrath  of  God.  If  *hese  things  are  true  in  many  instances^ 
yet  from  personal  observation,  I  should  believe,  their  more 
common  mode  of  accomplishing  their  wishes  has  been  by 
flattery  and  presents.  The  most  of  them  squander  away 
their  wages  in  ornaments  for  their  women  and  children. 

The  Indians,  with  whom  I  was  to  iravelj  having  appoint- 
|ed  the  21st  to  commence  their  journey  for  their  country,  a 
few  days  were  occupied  in  writing  to  my  family,  the  Amer- 
iican  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions,  and 
other  friends ;  and  also  in  making  preparations  for  my  jour- 
jney  to  Walla  Walla.  While  we  continued  in  this  place, 
I  though  in  the  middle  ot  the  day  it  was  warm,  yet  the  nights 
\  were  frosty,  and  ice  frequently  formed. 


•■•%. 


has  been 
in  all  the 


ley 


have 


them  the 
white 


tive 


lish  Uicni 


.-.v 


w 

l"',.  ■  ■ 

.  r-'  ^ 
''«    ■.' 


■Ji'l 


82 


DEPARTURE  OF  DOCT.  WHITMAN. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Part  with  my  associate-— arrive  at  head  waters  of  the  Columbia— kind- 
ness of  the  Indians— narrow  defile— geology— Jackson's  Hole— wild 
flax — trappers  go  out  on  a  hunt — mountain  prospect— Trois  Tetons- 
danger  from  aflrighted  buffalo— Pierre's  Hole— Volcanic  chasm-- 
children  on  horseback — interesting  worship  with  the  Indians— bunai 
of  a  child— scarcity  of  food— a  timely  supply— Salmon  river— expecitd 
battle— geological  observations— scene  of  mourning. 

August  21st,  commenced  our  journey  in  company  witli[ 
Capt.  Bridger,  who  goes  with  about  fifty  men,  six  or  eighi[ 
days*  journey  on  our  route.  Instead  of  going  down  on! 
the  south-west  side  of  Lewis*  river,  we  concluded  to  tak?, 
our  course  northerly  for  the  Trois  Tetons,  which  are  three! 
very  high  mountains,  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  separai 
tod  from  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  arrj 
seen  at  a  very  great  distance  ;  and  from  thence  to  Salmoi 
river.  Went  only  about  three  miles  from  the  place  of  ren 
dczvous,  and  encamped. 

On  the  22d,  I  parted  with  Doct.  Whitman,  who  return. 
cd  with  the  caravan  to  the  United  States.  My  anxioui 
desire  was,  that  t'ho  Lord  would  go  with  him  and  make  liii 
way  prosperous,  and  make  him  steadfast  to  the  object  oij 
Ills  return,  until  it  should  be  accomplished;  and  that,  wit 
next  year's  caravan,  ho  might  come  with  associates  int 
this  promising  field,  and  they  together  reap  a  plentiful  liar 
vest.  To-day  wo  traveled  twenty  miles,  throu-^h  a  soiw 
what  barren  country,  and  down  soverai  steep  descents,  am 
arrived  at  what  is  called  Jackson's  Hole,  and  encamped  u 
on  a  small  stream  of  water,  one  of  the  upper  brandies  o: 
the  Columbia  river.  It  was  interesting  to  find  mysolf, 
the  first  time,  upon  the  waters  of  this  noble  river.     The  In 


PUBLIC  WORSHIP. 


83 


dians  were  very  attentive  to  all  my  wants — took  the  entire 
care  of  my  packed  animals,  cooking,  «kc.  They  preserve 
particular  order  in  their  movements.  The  first  chief  leads 
the  way,  the  next  chiefs  follow,  then  the  common  men,  and 
after  these  the  women  and  children.  The  place  assigned 
me  was  with  the  first  chief. 

Found  some  buffalo  to-day,  of  which  our  men  killed  a 
small  number.  These  were  a  timely  supply,  as  our  provis- 
ions were  becoming  scarce.  The  principal  chief  of  the 
Flatheads  kindly  furnished  me  with  a  horse  to  relieve  mine. 

Sabbath,  23d.  Had  an  opportunity  for  rest  and  devo- 
tional exercises.  In  the  afternoon  we  had  public  worship 
with  Captain  Bridger's  company,  who  understood  English, 
The  men  conducted  with  great  propriety,  and  listened  with 
attention.  I  did  not  feel  any  disposition  to  upbraid  them 
for  their  sins,  but  endeavored  affectionately  to  show  them, 
that  they  are  unfit  for  heaven,  and  that  they  could  not  be 
happy  in  the  employments  of  that  holy  place,  unless  they 
should  first  experience  a  great  moral  change  of  heart  by 
the  grace  of  God,  since  the  only  source  of  happiness  in 
heaven  consists  in  serving  and  glorifying  God  for  ever  and 
ver.  The  place  of  our  encampment  was  such  as  would 
naturally  fill  the  mind  with  solemnity — just  above  a  very 
deep  and  narrow  defile  which  we  had  to  pass,  called  by  the 
hunters  Kenyan.  So  high  were  the  mountains,  that  some 
|of  them  were  tipped  with  perpetual  snow,  and  so  narrow  the 
passage,  that  twilight  shades  obscured  the  view.  The  dis- 
tance through  must  occupy  more  than  a  half  day's  journey. 

Arose  very  early  on  the  24th,  and  commenced  our  way 
through  the  narrow  defile,  frequently  crossing  and  re-cross- 
ing  a  large  stream  of  water  which  flows  into  the  Snake 
river.  The  scenery  was  ^-ild  and  in  many  parts  sublime — 
mountains  of  rock  almost  perpendicular,  shooting  their 
heads  up  into  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow,  and  in  one 
place  projecting  over  our  path,  if  a  zigzag  trail  ccn  be  call- 


;  .ii 


i  '  '  ■  -r  iM>^'-. 

•    ■.,■»"  .t  ,'■  ♦ 
.  •  •   .■;  -»/'•; 
■    /.       •  'iTT 


« ' 


84 


A  DANGEROUS  PASS GEOLOGY. 


'  .t 


ed  a  path.  Often  we  Imd  to  pass  over  the  sides  of  moun. 
tains,  which  incHncd  at  an  angle  of  45°  foward  the  atrcani 
of  water  below,  and  down  which  packed  rnules  have  fallen, 
and  were  dashed  upon  the  rocks.  I  endeavored  to  guide  niv 
Indian  horse  so  cautiously,  that  he  became  unmanageable, 
being  resolved  to  have  his  own  method  of  choosing  the  way, 
I  was  under  the  necessity  of  dismounting  and  make  the 
best  of  my  way  along.  But  on  farther  acquaintance  with 
Indian  horses,  I  learned  that  their  dashing  mode  of  going 
ahead,  even  in  dangerous  places,  was  preferable  to  the  most 
cautious  management  of  the  American. 

Geology.  For  some  miles  there  was  graywacke  in 
ridges  or  dykes,  at  equal  distances  of  six  or  eight  r«ds  apart, 
and  from  six  to  ten  teet  wide,  rising  but  little  above  the  sur. 
face  of  the  earth,  running  from  the  south-east  to  the  north, 
west ;  laying  in  strata  dipping  to  the  west  at  an  angle  of 
60°.  After  some  distance  we  came  to  a  red  mountain  of 
similar  character,  excepting  that  the  strata  dipped  to  the 
east,  at  an  angle  of  40°.  In  one  place  where  the  strata  of 
rocks  and  earth  were  in  waves  nearly  horizontal,  a  section 
a  few  rods  wide,  of  a  wedge  form,  had  its  waving  strata  in 
a  perpendicular  position,  as  though  the  mountain  had  been 
rent  asunder,  and  the  chasm  filled  with  the  perpendicular 
wedge.  A  great  diversity  of  the  strata  of  rocks  and  earth 
prevailed  in  every  part.  Towards  the  last  part  of  the  way 
through  this  narrow  defile,  we  came  to  what  ajipeared  to  bo 
magnesian  limestone,  stratified,  of  a  brown  cobr,  and  very 
hard.  As  we  passed  on,  we  come  to  dark  brown  gypsum, 
like  the  gypsum  found  in  the  western  part  of  the  state  ot 
New  York.  Here,  for  some  distance,  I  was  much  annoyed 
with  the  strong  scent  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  and  soon  saw 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  under  the  bed  of  gypsum  a 
large  sulphur  spring,  which  sent  up  as  much  as  thirty  gal. 
Ions  of  water  per  minute.  Around  this  spring  were  large 
quantities  of  incnisted  sulphur,  and  so  strongly  is  the  wa. 


KINDNESS  OF  THE  NATIVES. 


85 


(cr  saturated,  that  it  colors  the  water  of  the  river,  on  the 
jiitle  next  to  the  spring,  a  greenish  yellow  lor  more  tlian  a 
mile  below. 

We  passed  more  wooded  land  to-day,  than  all  before  since 
we  left  Rock  Independence ;  among  which  is  Norway  pine, 
balsam  fir,  double  spruce,  and  common  poplar — some  low 
cedar  and  mulberry  shrul)s,  and  various  species  of  slirubbery 
wiiicii  are  not  found  in  the  United  States.  The  Indians 
were  very  kind,  and  seemed  to  vie  with  each  other  to  sec 
which  could  do  the  most  for  my  comfort,  so  that  tliey  more 
timn  anticipated  my  wants.  Two  little  girls  brought  me 
ii  quart  of  strawlnirries,  a  rare  disli  for  the  season  of  the. 
vear.  And  an  Indian  brought  me  some  service  borries, 
wiiich  are  pleasantly  sweet,  and  somewiiat  resemble  whortle- 
l)crries.  We  encamped  upon  a  fertile  plain,  surrounded  by 
jnountains,  where  three  years  before  three  men  weze  killed 
l)y  a  small  war  party  of  Hlackfeet  Indians.  There  were 
seven  of  the  white  men,  and  when  they  saw  the  Black  feet, 
they  all  fled  in  different  directions,  and  by  so  doing  euibol- 
dcned  the  Indians  to  the  pursuit.  Had  they  stood  firm  and 
combined,  it  is  probable  they  would  have  escaped  unip a  t. 

We  traveled  four  hours  on  the  2.jtli,  to  another  brand'  of 
Lewis'  or  Snake  river,  and  encamped  in  a  large  pleasant  val- 
ley, commonly  ciilk^d  Jackson's  large  Hole.  It  is  fertile  and 
well  watered  with  a  branch  ^f  Levis'  river  coming  from  tiie 
soutb-^  lat,  and  another  of  conieiderable  magnitude,  coming 
from  the  east  north-east,  which  is  the  outlet  of  Jackson's 
hke,  which  is  a  very  considerable  body  of  water  laying 
hack  of  the  Trois  Tetons.  There  are  also  many  very  large 
springs  of  water  oi  uncommon  clearness,  which  issue  from 
liie  foot  of  tho  surrounding  mountains.  'J'his  vale  is  wel- 
supplied  with  grass  of  excellent  quality,  which  was  very 
grateful  to  our  horses,  and  nudes,  and  the  avidity  with 
which  they  helped  themselves  seemed  to  say,  they  would  be 
remunerated  for  past  depri\ations. 


'1  ■■:  ..>'7»i-i"  .■ 


^  ;• 


'  -J- 


.'  1  ■•  ■••• 


l)>. 
..'^f 


\     "^    ''I 


I 


;?vV, 


ill 


ii 


86 


WILD  FLAX — A  HUNTING  PARTY—  TRACTS. 


Flax  is  a  spontaneous  production  of  this  country.  In 
every  thing,  except  that  it  is  perennial,  it  resembles  the  fla; 
which  is  cultivateii  in  the  United  States — the  stalk,  th( 
bowl,  the  seed,  tiic  blue  flower,  closed  in  the  day  time  am 
open  in  the  evening  and  morning.  The  Indians  use  it  lor 
making  fishing  nets.  Fields  of  this  flax  might  be  managot 
by  the  husbandman  in  the  same  manner  as  meadows  foi 
hav.  It  would  need  to  be  mowed  like  jrrass  :  for  the  root 
arc  too  large  and  run  too  decj)  into  the  earth,  to  be  pulled  a 
ours  is,  and  an  advantage,  which  this  Mould  have,  is,  tha 
there  would  be  a  saving  of  ploughing  and  sowing.  Is  it  nc 
worthy  of  the  experiment  of  our  agricultural  societies  ? 

Kcntuc,  my  Indian,  brought  me  to-day  some  very  gooi. 
currants  which  were  a  feasl  in  this  land.  There  are  sev. 
oral  species,  yellow,  pale  red,  and  black.  The  yellow  aniJ 
pale  red  were  the  best  flavored. 

Wc  continued  in  this  encampment  three  days,  to  give 
our  animals  a  i  opportunity  to  recruit,  and  for  Captain 
Bridger  to  fit  and  send  out  several  of  his  men  into  tin 
mountains  to  hunt  and  trap.  When  I  reflected  upon  the 
probability,  that  I  should  not  see  them  again  in  this  work', 
and  also  that  most  of  them  would  never  return  to  their 
friends  again,  but  would  find  their  graves  in  the  mountains, 
my  heart  was  pained  for  them,  and  especially  at  tlieif 
thoughtlessness  about  the  great  things  of  the  eternal  world. 
I  gave  each  of  them  a  few  tracts,  tor  which  they  appeared 
grateful,  and  said  they  would  be  company  tor  them  in  their 
lonely  hours  ;  and  as  thoy  rode  away,  I  could  only  lit't  up 
my  heart  for  their  safety  and  salvation. 

A\  hile  wo  continued  here,  I  took  an  Indian  and  went  up 
to  the  top  of  a  very  high  mountain  to  take  a  view  of  tin 
scenery  around.  The  prospect  was  as  extensive  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  diversified  with  mountains,  hills,  and  j)laiiis. 
Most  of  the  mountains  were  covered  with  woods,  but  llie 
hills  and  plains  were  ( overed  with  grass,  presenting  Ic's  of 


bright  gr 

mers  on  t 

as  on  the 

cd  the  aj] 

large  lum 

Tetons  w 

north.     'J 

not  less  th 

and  coven 

are  so  vcr 

fore  take 

ing  over  t 

filled  with 

ing  moui 

windings 

sat  ions  fr 

the  course 

cd  by  mo 

this  excur 

ificd  with 

n  this  val 

time   will 

!)e  lost  in 

the  plough 

from  man 

praise.  Ti 

and  gave 

not  withoi 

iiorse  was 

mixed  crei 

On  the 

so  hijjh.  th 

our  trail. 

a  number 

Celine  rush 


■  -J  ■ 


ntry.    In 

!S  the  fla; 

stalk,  tilt 
time  ani 
use  it  I'ur 


ellow  and 

's,  to  give 
'  Captair 
into  tk 
upon  the 
lis  work!, 
,  to  their 
lountains, 
at  tlieif| 
nal  world. 
appeared! 
1  in  theirl 
ily  lift  up  I 

1  went  lip 
ew  of  tilt' 
as  the  eve  I 
id  j)lains. 
8,  but  the  I 
;g  lessot'l 


A  MOUNTAIN  PROSPECT A  PRESENT. 


87 


managci 
adows  foi 

I 

the  root 
e  pulled  ill 
?,  is,  tha 

Is  it  nt 

cieties  ? 

iii-p? 

very  gootKl 

c  are  s^ev. 

i 

brit^ht  green,  however,  than  might  be  expected,  if  the  sum- 
mers on  this  side  of  the  mountains  were  favored  with  rains 
as  on  the  east.  The  Rocky  Mountains  at  the  east,  present- 
ed the  appearance  of  an  immensely  large  bank  of  snow,  <»r 
large  luminous  clouds  skirting  the  horizon.  The  Tr^is 
Tetons  were  in  full  view,  and  not  very  far  distant  at  the 
north.  They  arc  a  cluster  of  very  high  pointed  mountains, 
not  less  than  ten  thousand  feet,  rising  almost  perpendicularly, 
and  covered  with  snow  ;  five  in  number,  but  only  three  of  them 
are  so  very  high  as  to  be  seen  at  a  great  distance,  and  th(^re- 
forc  take  the  above  name.  Here  I  spent  much  time  in  look- 
ing over  the  widely  extended  and  varied  scenery,  sometimes 
filled  with  emotions  of  the  sublime,  in  beholding  the  tower- 
ing mountains ;  sometimes  with  pleasure  in  tracing  the 
windings  of  the  streams  in  the  vale  below  ;  and  these  sen- 
sations frequently  gave  place  to  astonishment,  in  view  ing 
the  courses  in  which  the  rivers  flow  on  their  way  unobstruct- 
ed by  mountain  barriers.  After  some  hours  occupied  in 
this  excursion,  I  descended  to  the  encampment,  much  grat- 
itied  with  what  I  had  seen  of  the  works  of  God.  The  soil 
n  this  valley  and  upon  the  hills,  is  black  and  rich,  and  the 
lime  will  come,  when  the  solitude  which  now  prevails,  will 
l)e  lost  in  tlic  lowing  of  herds  and  bleating  of  flocks,  and 
the  plough  will  cleave  the  clods  of  these  hills  and  vales  ;  and 
from  many  altars  will  ascend  the  incense  of  prayer  and 
praise.  Tai-quin-wa-tish  took  mc  to  his  company  of  horses 
and  gave  mc  one  in  token  of  his  friendship,  and  probably 
not  without  the  motive  to  enlist  me  in  their  favor.  The 
horse  was  finely  made,  and  of  the  beautiful  color  of  inter- 
mixed cream  and  white. 

On  the  2Sth,  removed  camp,  and  passed  over  a  mointaln 
so  high,  that  banks  of  snow  were  but  a  short  distance  from 
our  trail.  When  we  had  ascended  two-thirds  of  the  way, 
a  nnmbt;r  of  buflalo,  which  were  pursued  by  our  Indians. 
cmwa  rushing  down  the  side  of  the  mountain  through  the 


4^;' 


4  .  .■  I    ■•-> 


f 


■;  ^ 


!         i 


m 


y-f  ..      . 


.'*.  -• 


>-v 


p*^^; 


8S 


J'lERRE  S  HOLE, 


ini(I«t  of  our  company.  One  ran  over  a  Iiorsc,  on  the  back 
of  wliich  was  a  child,  and  threw  the  child  far  down  tlie  de. 
scent,  hut  it  providentially  was  not  materially  injured.— 
Another  ran  over  a  packed  horse,  and  wounded  it  dee})ly  in 
the  shoulder.  The  butiiilo  are  naturally  timid,  yet  wiien  11 
tiiey  have  laid  their  course,  and  by  being  affrighted  are  run. 
ning  at  full  speed,  it  is  seldom  they  change  their  direction, 
let  what  will  be  presented. 

I  noticed  nothing  particularly  new  in  geology,  excepting 
upon  the  highest  parts  of  the  mountains  granite  of  very 
light  color.  Our  descent  was  through  woods  more  dcMiso  [ 
tiuin  those  on  the  other  side,  and  the  most  so  of  any  since 
we  left  "the  waters  of  the  Missouri.  Many  parts  of  the  do. 
scent  wore  of  almost  impassable  steepness  ;  and  part  of  tlio 
way  down  a  rough,  deep  ravine,  in  which  a  stream  of  water 
commences  and  increases  iVom  springs  and  rivulets  to  con. 
siderabie  magnitude,  and  winds  its  way  through  the  valley 
of  Pierre's  Hole  ;  in  the  upper  part  of  which  we  made  our 
encampment  among  willows  in  the  prairie  vale. 

On  the  29th,  removed  our  encampment,  and  traveled  live 
hours  along  this  valley  to  the  place,  where  two  years  before, 
two  fur  companies  held  their  rendezvous.  Pierre's  Hole 
is  an  extensive  level  country,  of  rich  soil,  and  well  watered 
with  branches  of  Lewis'  river  ;  is  less  frosty  than  any  j)arl 
we  have  gone  through  this  side  the  rocky  chain  of  moun, 
tains.  The  valley  is  well  covered  with  grass,  but  like  most 
otiier  places  is  deficient  in  woodland,  having  only  a  scant\ 
supply  of  cotton-wood  and  willows  scattered  along  tlie 
streams.  Tiic  valley  extends  around  to  tlie  north-west,  as 
i'ur  as  the  eye  can  reach.  Wc  expected  to  have  found  but' 
falo  in  this  valley,  but  saw  none.  As  parties  of  Blackt'eel 
warriors  often  range  this  way,  it  was  probable  they  had 
lati'ly  been  here  and  frightened  them  away.  As  we  were 
on  our  way  from  our  last  encampment,  I  was  shown  the 
l^lace  where  the  men  of  the  fur  companies,  at  the  time  of 


1 1 


\^,h'^s 


BRUTAL  CONDUCT  OP  WHITE  MEN. 


89 


the  back 

I  tlie  (1(;. 

jured.— 
eeply  in 
et  ulien  ^ 
are  run. 
irection. 

^cepting 
of  very 
re  dense  \ 
ny  since 
:*  tlic  dc 
rt  of  the 
)f  water  I 
I  to  con. 
le  valley 
nade  our 


[ng   the 


their  rendezvous  two  years  before,  had  a  battle  with  the 
Blackfeet  Indians.  Of  the  Blackfcet  party  there  were  about 
sixty  men,  and  more  than  the  same  number  of  women  and 
children ;  of  the  white  men  in  the  valley,  there  were  some 
few  hundred  who  could  be  called  into  action.  From  the 
information  given  me,  it  appeared  that  these  Indians  were 
on  their  way  through  this  valley,  and  unexpectedly  met 
about  forty  hunters  and  trappers  going  out  from  rendezvous 
to  the  south-west  on  their  fall  and  v/inter  hunt.  The  Indi- 
ans  manifested  an  unwillingness  to  fight,  and  presented 
them  tokens  of  peace;  but  they  were  not  reciprocated. 
The  Indians  who  come  forward  to  stipulate  terms  of  peace 
were  fired  upon  and  killed.  When  the  Indians  saw  their 
danger,  they  fled  to  the  cotton. wood  trees  and  willows  which 
were  scattered  along  the  stream  of  water,  and  taking  the 
advantage  of  some  fallen  trees  constructed  as  good  defence 
as  time  and  circumstances  would  permit.  They  were  poor- 
ly  provided  with  guns  and  still  more  poorly  with  ammunition. 
The  trappers  keeping  out  of  reach  of  their  arrows,  and  be- 
ing well  armed  with  the  best  rifles,  mado  the  contest  unc- 

!  qua],  and  still  more  unequal,  when,  by  an  express  sent  to 
rendezvou*,  they  were  re-inforced  by  veterans  in  mountain 
life.     The  hunters,  by  keeping  at  a  safe  distance,  in  the 

I  course  of  a  few  hours  killed  several  of  the  Indians,  and  aU 
most  all  their  horses,  which  in  their  situation,  could  not  be 
protected,  while  they  themselves  suffered  but  small  loss. 
The  numbers  killed  on  both  sides  have  been  diflferently  sta- 
ted,  but  considering  the  numbers  engaged,  and  the  length  of 
time  the  skirmishing  continued,  it  could  not  have  been  a 
hloody  battle ;  and  not  much  to  the  honor  of  civilized 
Americans.  The  excuse  made  for  forcing  the  Blackfeet 
into  battle  is,  that  if  they  had  came  upon  a  small  party  of 
trappers,  they  would  have  butchered  them  and  seized  upon 
the  plunder.      If  heatlien  Blackfeet  would  have  done  so,  is 

this  an  apologv  for  civilized  white  men  to  render  evil  for 

8* 


': 


'      ■■•■      ^c' 


■-  '"n:\' 


!•;;■: 


Ifli* 


i^' 


.'«• 


•^y--- 


90 


THK  TEX  C0MJIAND3IE.\TS. 


evil  ?     Wliat  a  noble  opportunity  thrrc  was  for  our  Amcri. 
can  citizens  to  have  set  an  cxainple  ot'  humanity. 

AVhen  the  night  drew  near,  the  hunters  retired  to  their 
encampment  at  the  place  of  rendezvous,  and  the  Indians 
made  their  escape.  Thus  tlic  famous  battle  of  Perre's  Hole- 
began  and  ended.* 

Had  worship  this  evening  wi^In  lihe  chiefs  and  as  many 
as  could  assemble  in  one  of  their  lodges,  and  explained  to 
them  the  ten  commandments — and  after  showing  them  their 
bins  by  their  transgression  of  God's  holy  law,  pointed  tlieiii 
to  the  JSavior,  and  endeavored  to  make  them  understand 
the  way  they  can  be  saved.  My  method  of  instructing 
them  was  to  give  to  the  first  chief  the  first  commandment, 
by  repeating  it,  until  he  could  repeat  it ;  and  the  second 
commandment  to  another  chief  in  the  same  way,  and  so  on 
through  the  ten,  with  directions  for  them  to  retain  what 
was  given  to  each,  and  to  teach  them  to  their  people  ;  and 
the  same  manner  was  pursued  with  other  parts  of  divine 
truth  ;  informing  them,  that  at  our  next  assembling,  I  shall 


m 


♦  Since  my  return,  I  have  scon  an  account  of  this  battle,  written  by  a 
prnphic  hand,  in  all  the  fascinating  style  of  romance,  representintj  the 
Indians  as  having  entronchrd  themselves  in  u  svi-amp,  so  densely  woodi-d 
as  to  be  almost  impenetrable ;  and  there  they  kept  the  trapjpers  at  bay, 
untj)  they  were  re-mforced  from  rendezvous.  VVnen  the  Blackfeet  saw 
the  whole  valley  alive  with  horsemen  rushing  to  the  field  of  action,  they 
withdrew  into  the  daik  tangled  wood.  When  the  leaders  of  the  several 
hunting  parties  came  into  the  field,  they  urged  their  men  to  entei  the 
.^wamp,  but  they  hung  back  in  awe  of  the  cfismal  horrors  of  the  place, 
regarding  it  impenetrable  and  full  of  danger.  But  the  leaders  would  not 
be  turned  from  their  purpose — made  their  wills,  appointed  their  execufors 
— grasped  their  rifles,  and  urged  their  way  through  the  woods.  A  brisk 
fire  was  opened,  and  the  Blackfeet  were  completely  overmatched,  but 
would  not  leave  their  fort,  nor  offer  to  surrender.  The  numerous  veteran 
mountaineers,  well  equipped,  did  not  storm  the  breastwork,  even  when 
the  Blackfeet  had  spent  their  pov.'d(!r  and  balls,  but  only  kept  up  the 
bloody  battle  by  occasional  firing  during  the  day.  The  Blackfeet  in  the 
night  effected  tneir  retreat ;  and  the  brave  mountaineers  assembled  thtir 
forces  in  the  morning,  and  entered  the  fort  icithout  ojrposition. 

With  those  who  have  st-en  the  fii'ld  of  battle,  the  glowing  description, 
drawn  out  in  long  detail,  looses  its  interest;  for  although  I  saw  it,  yet  I 
did  not  see  the  dense  woods,  nor  a  swamp  of  any  magnitude  any  where 
iicar. 


*.:> 
A 


as  manv 


VOLCANIC  CHASM. 


91 


cxaniiiie  tlicm  to  see  if  tlicy  rightly  understood,  and  retained 
>vliat  I  committed  to  each.  And  on  examination,  in  no 
case  did  I  find  more  tlian  one  material  mistake.  I  also 
found  that  they  took  much  pains  in  communicating  divine 
instruction  one  to  another. 

In  this  place  I  parted  with  Captain  Bridger  and  his  party, 
who  went  north-west  into  the  mountains  to  their  hunting 
ground,  but  ground  which  the  Blackfeet  clnin»,  and  for 
which  they  will  contend.  The  first  chief  of  the  Flathead's 
and  his  family,  with  a  few  otiicrs  of  his  people,  went  with 
Captain  Bridger  tliat  they  might  continue  within  the  range 
of  huflalo  through  the  coming  winter. 

Tiie  Nez  Perccs,  and  witii  them  the  Flatheads,  with  whom 
I  go,  take  a  north-west  dirocti^  jr  Salmon  river,  beyond 
wliicli  is  their  country.  Our  encampment  for  the  sabbath 
Mas  well  chosen  for  safety  against  any  war  parties  of 
Blackfeet  Indians,  near  a  small  stream  of  water  which  runs 
through  a  volcanic  chasm.  We  had  passed  this,  which  is 
more  than  one  hundred  feet  deep,  and  in  most  places  per- 
pendicular, and  encamped  on  the  west  side  of  the  chasm, 
uith  a  narrow  strip  of  wood  around  on  every  other  side. 
Here  was  a  passage  made  for  the  water  by  Jirc,  The  cour- 
ses, which  are  formed  for  the  rivers,  as  forcibly  prove  the 
creating  and  directing  hand  of  God,  as  the  design  manifest, 
cd  in  the  organic  part  of  creation  ;  and  I  would  as  unwil- 
lingly account  for  the  positions  of  mountains,  and  vallies, 
and  the  channels  of  rivers,  by  natural  phenomena,  without 
including  the  power  and  design  of  God,  as  for  the  formation 
of  plants  and  animals.  It  is  true,  there  is  more  minute 
and  curious  organization  in  the  one  than  there  is  in  the 
other,  but  in  both  the  wisdom  and  power  of  God  are  mani. 
fcst.  Took  much  satisfaction  in  reading  the  epistle  to  the 
Hebrews  to-day,  and  especially  the  part  which  explains  the 
priesthood  of  Christ ;  and  also  in  committing  myself  and 
family,  the  churcli,  and  world  of  mankind,  to  God.     It  wt\s 


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92 


CHILDREN  ON  HOBSEBACE. 


pleasant  to  reflect  on  the  promises,  that  the  kingdoms  of 
this  world  shall  become  the  kingdoms  of  the  Lord,  and  of 
his  Christ,  and  he  shall  reign  for  ever ;  and  the  time  will 
come,  when  all  shall  know  the  Lord,  and  God  shall  be  mer- 
ciful  to  their  unrighteousness,  and  the! ;  sins  and  iniquities 
He  will  remember  no  more. 

Monday,  31st.  While  the  Indians  were  packing  and  pre. 
paring  to  leave  this  encampment,  I  went  and  examined  this 
volcanic  chasm.  It  is  of  great  length,  at  least  several  miles, 
and  narrow  considering  its  depth ;  formed  with  basalt  in 
columns  in  many  places,  and  in  others  of  amygdaloid. 
Found  many  large  and  interesting  specimens  of  pure  obsid. 
ian,  or  volcanic  glass— ^much  lava  and  vitrified  stones.  I 
took  some  small  specimens.  In  the  vicinity  around,  there 
was  clink  stone  in  great  abundance,  which,  when  struck  by 
the  horses  hoofs,  gave  a  metallic  sound  very  audibly.  The 
soil  is  black,  and  appears  to  be  formed  of  decomposed  lava, 
and  is  covered  with  very  nutritious  grass. 

The  Indians  are  very  kind  to  each  other,  and  if  one  meets 
with  any  disaster,  the  others  will  wait  and  assist  him.  Their 
horses  often  turn  their  pack,  and  run,  plunge  and  kick,  un. 
til  they  free  themselves  from  their  burdens.  Yesterday  a 
horse  turned  his  saddle  under  him  upon  which  a  child  was 
fastened,  and  started  to  run,  but  those  near  hovered  at  once 
around  with  their  horses  so  as  to  enclose  the  one  to  which 
the  child  was  attached,  and  it  was  extricated  without  hurt. 
When  I  saw  the  condition  of  the  child,  I  had  no  expectation 
that  it  could  be  saved  alive.  This  was  the  second  case  of 
the  same  kind  which  occurred  since  I  had  been  traveling 
with  these  Indians.  They  are  so  well  supplied  with  horses 
that  every  man,  woman,  and  child  are  mounted  on  horse, 
back,  and  all  they  have  is  packed  upon  horses.  Small  chil. 
dren,  not  more  than  three  years  old,  are  mounted  alone,  and 
generally  upon  colts.  They  are  lashed  upon  the  saddle  to 
keep  them  from  falling,  and  especially  when  they  go  asleep 


>■% 


A  EECONCILIATIOX. 


93 


which  they  often  do  when  they  become  fatigued.  Then 
thfv  recline  upon  the  horses  shoulders  ;  and  when  they 
awake,  they  lay  hold  of  their  whip,  which  is  fastened  to 
the  wrist  of  their  right  hand,  and  apply  it  smartly  to  their 
horses ;  and  it  is  astonishing  to  see  how  these  little  crea- 
tures will  guide  and  run  them.  Children  which  are  still 
younger,  are  put  into  an  encasement  made  with  a  board  at 
the  back  and  a  wicker  work  around  the  other  parts,  covered 
with  cloth  inside  and  without,  or  more  generally  with  dress- 
ed skins ;  and  they  arc  carried  upon  the  mothers'  back,  or 
suspended  from  a  high  nob  upon  tlie  fore  part  of  their  sad- 
dles. 

As  we  recede  from  the  mountains  the  climate  becomes 
warmer.  We  encamped  upon  another  tributary  of  the  Co- 
lumbia. Tai-quin-wa-tisii,  the  principal  chief  of  the  Nez 
Perces,  came  to  me  and  requested  me  to  meet  in  his  lodge  a 
number  of  their  people  w^ho  had  separated,  husbands  from 
I  tlicir  wives,  and  wives  from  their  husbands,  and  explain  to 
them  what  God  has  said  upon  the  subject.  I  readily  con- 
sented, and  was  the  more  pleased  with  the  proposal  as  it 
was  without  any  suggestion  from  myself,  but  the  result  of 
Ills  own  reflections  after  what  I  had  before  said  in  explain- 
ing  the  ten  commandments.  When  they  were  assembled, 
I  read  to  them  and  explained  what  God  has  said  about  the 
duty  of  husbands  to  tlieir  wives,  and  of  wives  to  their  hus- 
bands; and  of  the  duty  of  parents  to  their  children,  and 
children  to  their  parents.  I  commented  upon  the  subject, 
and  told  them,  that  when  they  marry,  it  nmst  be  for  life. 
They  all  but  two  agreed  to  go  back  to  their  ft)rmer  husbands 
and  wives.  It  was  interesting  to  see  that  they  are  ready 
to  put  in  practice  instructions  as  soon  as  received.  The 
chief  said  they  wish  me  to  instruct  them  in  all  that  God 
lias  said ;  for  they  wish  to  do  right.  After  I  left  them, 
tht^y  stayed  a  long  time  in  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  which 
was  near  my  tent,  and  I  heard  them  conversing  on  the  sub- 


"*:: 


•■-.I 


■  ■  \       ..VT  ^    .i|f*  ?: 


:'  ■:i-\ 


'■  ■*»•>■ 


'■ti^ 


M 

•■•4'-. 


■^:'U 


.,  I 


l»  ■.>'♦•. 


ij  -   •' 


i: 


04 


FEARS  OF  AN  ENEMY. 


ject  until  I  went  to  sleep,  which  was  at  a  late  hour.  They 
all  shake  hands  with  me  when  service  is  closed,  and  say  the 
instruction  is  "  tois"  (good.) 

Tuesday,  September  1st.  We  pursued  our  journey  to-day 
only  about  four  hours.  Crossed  Henry's  Fork^  which  is 
another  branch  of  Lewis'  river,  and  is  itself  a  river  of  con. 
siderable  magnitude,  about  twenty  rods  wide  in  this  place, 
and  fordable  only  when  the  water  is  low.  After  proceed- 
ing a  few  miles  down  on  the  north  side,  we  encamped  at  an 
early  hour  in  a  place  upon  the  bank  of  the  river,  well  sur. 
rounded  by  cotton.wood  with  a  dense  growth  of  shrubbery. 
Fears  of  meeting  a  war  party  of  Blackfeet  Indians,  were  in. 
creased  by  seeing  three  Indians  pass  who  were  not  known. 
Some  of  our  chiefs  went  through  our  encampment  and  ha. 
rangued  the  people,  the  object  of  which  was  to  be  prepared 
for  defending  themselves  against  an  attack,  should  any  ene. 
mies  appear.  We  were  mercifully  pi*eser\ed  in  safety 
through  the  night,  and  arose  on  the  morning  of  the  second 
and  went  on  our  way,  and  performed  a  journey  of  twenty, 
two  miles  over  a  very  barren  section  of  country.  The  sur. 
face  is  composed  of  quartose  sand,  intermixed  with  disin. 
tegrated  amygdaloid,  basalt,  and  obsidian.  In  some  places 
were  large  excavations,  plainly  indicative  of  ancient  volca. 
noes,  which  had  not  formed  anything  conical  around  them, 
but  had  spread  out  their  melted  contents  in  a  level  plain  ot 
hard  lava,  or  amygdaloid.  In  some  places  there  were  con. 
ical  rocks  of  different  magnitudes  at  the  base  and  of  differ, 
ent  height — none  perhaps  over  the  diameter  of  three  rods  at 
the  base  and  sixty  feet  high.  They  were  universally  divi. 
ded  in  the  centre,  as  though  an  explosion  had  taken  place 
after  they  were  hardened.  At  some  distance  from  us  were 
some  very  interesting  hills,  rising  in  high  cones  some  hun. 
dred  feet — two  of  them,  I  should  judge  to  be  not  far  from 
three  thousand  feet.  I  did  not  have  an  opportunity  of  ex. 
amining  them. 


w 


^ 


INVITATION  TO  FORT  HALL. 


95 


We  arrived  at  a  small  branch  of  the  Salmon  river,  whiclx 
was  the  first  water  we  found  through  the  day,  and  upon 
which  was  good  grass  for  our  horses.  Here,  after  encamp, 
ing,  Kentuc,  my  Indian,  caught  me  some  excellent  trout, 
which  was  a  very  grateful  change  of  food. 

We  traveled  on  the  3d,  four  hours  and  a  half,  over  a 
barren  tract  as  yesterday,  on  which  there  is  no  vegetation 
except  wormwood,  which  grows  very  large.  We  found  no 
water  until  we  came  to  the  place  of  our  encampment,  which 
was  by  a  marshy  vale,  through  which  a  small  stream  runs 
very  sluggishly.  We  found  no  wood  excepting  willows 
and  wormwood  in  this  and  our  last  encampment  Thermom- 
eter, at  noon,  65°. 

We  traveled  on  the  fourth,  five  hours,  and  encamped  upon 
a  stream  of  water,  in  Cote's  defile,  which  comes  out  of  the 
mountains  and  is  lost  in  the  barren  plains  below.  Cote's 
defile  passes  through  a  range  of  high  mountains,  some  of 
the  tops  of  which  are  covered  with  snow.  Most  of  the 
day  was  uncomfortably  cold — some  snow-squalls.  Ther- 
mometer, at  noon,  54°. 

Received  a  letter  from  Fort  Hall  containing  an  invitation 
from  Mr.  A.  Baker  to  spenu  the  winter  with  him  ;  but  the 
object  for  which  I  have  passed  the  Rocky  Mountains  requir- 
ed me  to  pursue  my  tour,  and  if  possible  to  reach  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean,  and  to  return  to  Fort  Vancouver  before  winter. 
We  providentially  learned  that  a  large  band  of  Nez  Perces 
was  a  few  miles  below  us,  and  would  come  to  us  to-morrow. 
The  Indians  had  become  almost  destitute  of  provisions,  but 
to-day  they  killed  a  few  buffalo. 

The  morning  of  the  5th  was  very  cold.  We  continued 
in  our  encampment  to-day,  to  give  the  band  of  Nez  Perces 
an  opportunity  to  join  us,  and  about  the  middle  of  the  day 
they  came ;  the  principal  chief  marching  in  front  with  his 
aid,  carrying  an  American  flag  by  his  side.  They  all  sunp 
a  march,  while  a  few  beat  a  sort  of  drum.     As  they  dreW 


^  j^ 


V.;'- 


,. ' 


.' ..  I 


'X- 


'«•' 


■  •  ;■- 1 


(  . 


wW4'^ 


P'     '.• 


96 


CHARLE,  A  NEZ  TEKCE  CHIEF. 


near,  tliey  displayed  columns,  and  made  quite  an  imposing 
appearance.  The  women  and  children  followed  in  the  rear. 
Tai-quin-wa-tish,  and  our  other  chiefs  arranged  their  people 
in  the  same  order  and  went  out  to  meet  them ;  and  when 
we  had  approached  within  ten  rods  of  each  other,  all  halted, 
and  a  salute  was  fired  in  which  I  had  to  take  the  lead.— 
They  then  dismounted,  and  both  bands  formed  into  single 
file,  and  meeting,  shook  hands  with  each  other  in  token  of 
love,  and  to  express  their  joy  to  see  one  come  among  them 
to  teach  them  things  pertaining  to  God  and  salvation.  Tlic 
principal  chief  of  the  other  band,  who  is  called  Charle,  and 
who  is  the  first  chief  of  the  Nez  Perce  nation,  is  a  good. 
looking  man,  his  countenance  rather  stern,  intelligent,  and 
expressive  of  much  decision  of  character.  1  never  saw  joy 
expressed  in  a  more  dignified  manner,  than  when  he  took 
me  firmly  by  the  hand  and  welcomed  me. 

In  the  afternoon  I  took  Kentuc  and  rode  five  miles  to  see 
a  prominence  of  interesting  appearance,  which  I  found  to 
be  a  mass  of  volcanic  rocks.  It  is  detached  from  the  main 
mountain,  stands  on  a  plain  upon  the  east  side  of  Cote's  de- 
file, is  about  a  mile  in  circumference  at  the  base,  and  rises 
up  abruptly,  having  most  of  the  west  side  perpendicular. 
It  is  more  than  two  hundred  feet  high,  has  a  level  horizon- 
tal  summit  of  eighty  rods  long  north  and  south,  and  twenty 
rods  wide.  It  furnishes  plain  evidence  of  having  been  fused 
and  thrown  up  by  subterranean  fires. 

In  the  evening  I  met  with  the  chiefs  and  as  many  as 
could  assemble  in  a  lodge,  and  explained  to  those  whom  I 
had  not  seen  before,  the  object  of  my  mission.  Charle,  the 
first  chief,  arose  and  spoke  very  sensibly  for  a  considerable 
time — mentioned  his  ignorance,  his  desire  to  know  more 
about  God,  and  his  gladness  of  heart  to  see  one  who  can 
teach  him  ;  and  said,  "  I  have  been  like  a  little  child,  feel- 
ing about  in  the  dark  after  something,  but  not  knowing 
■what ;    but  now  I  hope  to  learn  something  which  will  be 


A  SANCTUARY  IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 


97 


substantial,'and  which  will  help  me  to  teach  my  people  to  do 
right."  I  told  them  to-morrow  would  be  the  sabbath  ;  and 
explained  to  them  the  nature  of  the  institution,  and  their 
obligation  to  remember  and  keep  it  holy.  They  expressed 
their  desire  to  obey,  and  said  they  would  not  remove  camp, 
but  attend  to  the  worship  of  God.  Providentially  there 
came  to  us  this  afternoon  a  good  interpreter  from  Fort 
Hall,  so  that  to-morrow  we  can  have  public  worship. 

Sabbath,  6th.  Early  this  morning  one  of  the  oldest 
chiefs  went  about  among  th^  people,  and  with  a  loud  voice 
explained  to  them  the  instructions  given  them  last  evening ; 
told  them  it  was  the  sabbath  day,  and  they  must  prepare  for 
public  worship.  About  eight  in  the  morning  some  of  the 
chiefs  came  to  me  and  asked  where  they  should  assemble. 
I  asked  them  if  they  could  not  be  accommodated  in  the  wil- 
lows  which  skirted  the  stream  of  water  on  which  we  were 
encamped.  They  thought  not.  I  then  enquired  if  they 
could  not  take  the  poles  of  some  of  their  lodges  and  con- 
struct a  shade.  They  thought  they  could ;  and  without 
any  other  directions  went  and  made  preparation,  and  about 
eleven  o'clock  came  and  said  they  were  ready  for  worship. 
I  found  them  all  assembled,  men,  women,  and  children,  be- 
tween four  and  five  hundred,  in  what  I  would  call  a  sanctu- 
ary  of  God,  constructed  with  their  lodges,  nearly  one  hun- 
dred feet  long  and  about  twenty  feet  wide ;  and  all  were 
arranged  in  rows,  through  the  length  of  the  building,  upon 
their  knees,  with  a  narrow  space  in  the  middle,  lengthwise, 
resembling  an  aisle.  The  whole  area  within  was  carpeted 
with  their  dressed  skins,  and  they  were  all  attired  in  their 
i)est.  The  chiefs  were  arranged  in  a  semicircle  at  the  end 
which  I  was  to  occupy.  I  could  not  have  believed  they  had 
the  means,  or  could  have  known  how,  to  have  constructed 
[  so  convenient  and  so  decent  a  place  for  worship,  and  es- 
pecially as  it  was  the  first  time  they  had  had  public  wor- 
ship. The  whole  sight,  taken  together,  sensibly  aflbctod 
9 


i««i./;  ^-'^^  >-.%::  5 


;^-' 


ii..* 


98 


AN  INTEBESTIN6  AUDIENCE. 


me,  and  filled  me  with  astonishment ;  and  I  felt  as  though  it 
was  the  house  of  God  and  the  gate  of  heaven. 

They  all  continued  in  their  kneeling  position  during  sing. 
ing  and  prayer,  and  when  I  closed  prayer  with  Amen,  they 
all  said  what  was  equivalent  in  their  language,  to  Amen. 
And  when  I  commenced  sermon,  they  sunk  back  upon  their 
heels.  I  stated  to  them  the  original  condition  of  man  as 
first  created ;  his  fall,  and  the  ruined  and  sinful  condition  of 
all  mankind ;  the  law  of  God,  and  that  all  are  transgressors 
of  this  law,  and  as  such  are  exposed  to  the  wrath  of  God, 
both  in  this  life  and  the  life  to  come  ;  and  then  told  them  of 
the  mercy  of  God  in  giving  his  son  to  die  for  us  ;  and  of 
the  love  of  the  Savior,  and  though  he  desires  our  salvation, 
yet  he  will  not  save  us  unless  we  hate  sin  and  put  our  trust 
in  him,  and  love  and  obey  him  with  all  our  heart.  I  also 
endeavored  to  show  them  the  necessity  of  renovation  of 
heart  by  the  power  and  grace  of  the  Holy  Spirit.  Told 
them  they  must  pray  to  God  for  the  forgiveness  of  their  sins 
and  for  salvation.  They  gave  the  utmost  attention,  and 
entire  stillness  prevailed,  excepting,  when  some  truth  arrest. 
ed  their  mind  forcibly,  a  little  humming  sound  was  made 
through  the  whole  assembly,  occupying  two  or  three  se* 
conds.       -'  .■'"  -'-"   ...  ' " -I, ..'  V    ,  •";„'•. <i  :  '^  --"■  i  .  -  -,.    ; ,; 

I  never  spoke  to  a  more  interesting  assembly,  and  I  wouldl 
not  have  changed  my  then  audience  for  any  other  uponi 
earth ;  and  I  felt  that  it  was  worth  a  journey  across  tbel 
Rocky  Mountains,  to  enjoy  this  one  opportunity  with  these! 
heathen  who  are  so  anxious  to  come  to  a  knowledge  of  God.  I 
I  hope,  that  in  the  last  day  it  will  be  found,  that  good  wasi 
done  in  the  name  of  Jesus.  If  christians  could  have  wit- 
nessed this  day's  service,  they  would  have  felt,  and  they 
would  be  willing  to  do  something  adequate  to  the  conversion| 
of  these  perishing  souls. 

An  Indian  boy  about  sixteen  years  old,  who  belonged  tol 
the  band  who  joined  us  yesterday,  died  this  morning.    Hel 


V} 


A  FUNERAL HOSPITALITY. 


99 


was  speechless  when  he  was  brought  here.  We  attended 
his  funeral  in  the  afternoon.  They  buried  him  in  a  very 
decent  manner,  without  any  heathen  rites,  excepting  that 
they  buried  with  him  all  his  clothes  and  blankets.  I  ad- 
dressed the  people  at  the  grave  upon  the  subject  of  the  res- 
urrection and  of  the  judgment.  This  was  entirely  new  to 
them  and  very  interesting.  Tai-quin-w&,.tish  came  to  my 
tent  toward  evening,  and  said,  what  I  had  said  was  "  tois," 
it  was  spiritual,  and  now  he  knew  more  about  God.  After 
I  had  gone  to  rest  they  sent  for  me  to  meet  with  them  again 
in  one  of  their  tents. 

Monday,  7th.  We  traveled  five  hours  to-day.  The  Indians 
make  but  slow  progress  in  traveling  with  their  village.  It 
takes  them  a  long  time  to  pack  and  unpack,  to  set  and  take 
down  their  lodges.  This  is,  however,  of  but  little  conse- 
quence to  them  ;  for  wherever  they  are,  it  is  their  home. 

They  are  very  kind,  and  manifest  their  kindness  in  an- 
ticipating all,  and  more  than  all,  my  wants,  which  they  have 
the  power  to  supply.  They  consult  me  upon  all  their  im- 
portant business,  and  are  very  ready  to  follow  my  counsels. 
They  are  attentive  to  furnish  little  comforts.  If  the  sun 
shines  with  much  warmth  into  my  tent,  they  will  cut  green 
bushes  and  set  them  up  for  shade.  A  few  days  since,  we 
encamped  where  there  were  some  very  fragrant  plants  of  a 
species  of  mint,  and  the  wife  of  Tai-quin-W£t-tish  with  a 
few  other  women  collected  a  considerable  quantity,  rid 
strewed  them  in  my  tent. 

Passed  to-day  mountains  of  volcanic  rocks  and  over  a  more 
rich,  black  soil,  where  we  found  a  good  supply  of  grass  for 
our  horses  at  night. 

Pursued  our  journey,  on  the  8th,  as  usual.  Felt  some 
soreness  in  my  breast,  arising  from  a  cold,  which  began  yes- 
terday. My  health  thus  far  on  the  journey  has  been  very 
good.  ' 

The  Indian  mode  of  living  is  very  precarious,  and  yet  they 


K< 


■t*  ' 


-  ■ .  ^..  .1*.  .. n* ?    ,j ,/•       .. 

• '  ■;-,;'.,■ .'  ■•',v.''|i 


;•> 


:■-•%■ 


'.v.  .'■  ■ 

h 


»  , 


/ . 


'''h: 


^75;  "I 


\».  •  ■  t 


100 


SCARCITY  OS  PROVISIONS — TIMELY  SUPPLY. 


are  not  very  anxious  about  the  future.  When  they  have  a 
plenty,  they  are  not  sparing ;  and  when  they  are  in  want, 
they  do  not  complain.  The  Indians  at  this  time  were  al. 
most  destitute  of  provisions,  and  we  were  approaching  the 
Salmon  river  mountains,  to  pass  over  which  occupies  be. 
tween  twelve  and  fifteen  days,  and  in  which  there  are  no 
buffalo  and  scarcely  any  other  game.  I  felt  a  prayerful 
concern  for  them,  that  God  would  send  them  a  supply  be. 
fore  we  should  get  beyond  the  range  of  buffalo,  and  was 
confident  that  we  should  experience  the  truth  of  God's  word, 
that  he  provides  for  all  their  meat  in  due  season ;  and  as 
the  cattle  upon  the  thousand  hills  are  his,  so  he  would  not 
withhold  from  these  Indians  a  supply  of  their  need. 

Continued  to  pass  basaltic  mountains ;  and  also  passed 
some  very  white  marl  clay,  which  the  Indians  use  for  cleans, 
ing  their  robes  and  other  garments  made  of  dressed  skins. 

Their  mode  of  doing  this  is  by  making  it  into  a  paste, 
and  rubbing  it  upon  the  garments,  and  when  it  becomes 
dry,  they  rub  it  off,  which  process  leaves  the  garment  soft, 
clean,  and  white.  We  encamped  to-day  where  they  had 
before  made  an  encampment  a  lilt!  i  below  a  steep  bank. 
Near  night  I  was  alarmed  by  shouts  of  Indians  and  a  general 
rush  up  the  bank.  I  hastened  up  and  saw  great  numbers 
running  towards  our  camp.  It  proved  to  be  a  foot  race, 
such  as  they  frequently  exercise  themselves  in,  for  the  pur. 
pose  of  improving  their  agiUty.  .      .^ 

September  9th,  more  unwell.  To-day  we  unexpectedly 
saw  before  us  a  large  band  of  buffalo.  All  halted  to  make 
preparation  for  the  chase.  The  young  men  and  all  the 
good  hunters  prepared  themselves,  selected  the  swiftest 
horses,  examined  the  few  guns  they  had,  and  also  took  a 
supply  of  arrows  with  their  bows.  Our  condition  was  such, 
that  it  seemed  that  our  lives  almost  depended  upon  their  sue- 
cess.  And  while  they  were  preparing,  I  could  not  but  lift 
up  my  heart  in  prayer  to  God,  that  he  would  in  mercy  give 


THE  CHASE. 


101 


them  judgment,  skill,  and  success.  They  advanced  towards 
the  herd  of  buffalo  with  great  caution,  lest  they  should 
frighten  them  before  they  should  make  a  near  approach ; 
and  also  to  reserve  the  power  of  their  horses  for  the  chase, 
when  it  should  be  necessary  to  bring  it  into  full  requisition. 
When  the  buffalo  took  the  alarm  and  fled,  the  rush  was 
made,  each  Indian  selecting  for  himself  a  cow  with  which 
he  happened  to  come  into  the  nearest  contact.  All  were  in 
swift  motion  scouring  the  valley — a  cloud  of  dust  began  to 
arise — firing  of  guns  and  shooting  of  arrows  followed  in 
close  succession — soon  here  and  there  buffalo  were  seen 
prostrated ;  and  the  women,  who  followed  close  in  the  rear, 
began  the  work  of  securing  the  valuable  acquisition ;  and 
the  men  were  away  again  in  pursuit  of  the  fleeing  herd. 
Those  in  the  chase,  when  as  near  as  two  rods,  shoot  and 
wheel  expecting  the  wounded  animal  to  turn  upon  them. 
The  horses  appeared  to  understand  the  way  to  avoid  danger. 
As  soon  as  the  wounded  animal  flies  again,  the  chase  is  ve- 
newed,  and  such  is  the  alternate  wheeling  and  chasing  un- 
til the  buffalo  sinks  beneath  its  wounds.  They  obtained  be- 
tween fifty  and  sixty,  which  was  a  signal  mercy. 

It  was  interesting  to  see  how  expertly  the  Indians  use  the 
bow  and  arrow,  and  how  well  the  women  followed  up  the 
chase,  and  performed  their  part  in  dressing  those  buffalo 
which  were  slain.  After  traveling  six  hours  to-day,  we  en- 
camped in  a  good  place  on  the  eastern  branch  of  Salmon 
river,  where  it  is  of  considerable  magnitude.  The  pain  in 
my  breast  changed  and  seated  in  my  head,  on  the  right  side. 

On  the  10th,  my  health  was  no  better,  and  I  was  obliged 

to  resort  to  medicine.     I  could  say  with  the  Psalmist,   "  I 

laid  me  down  and  slept;  for  thou  art  with  me."    We  did 

not  remove  to-day,  for  it  was  necessary  for  the  Indians  to 

dry  their  meat  by  what  is  called  "  jerking."     The  process  is 

to  cut  the  meat  into  thin  pieces,  an  inch  thick,  and  to  spread 

it  out  upon  a  fixture  made  with  stakes,  upon  which  are  laid 
9* 


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ii;t 


102 


A  LOOKOUT  FOR  ENEMIES. 


poles,  and  upon  these  cross  sticks ;  an('  then  a  moderate  fire 
is  placed  beneath,  which  partly  smokes,  cooks,  and  dries, 
until  it  is  so  well  freed  from  moisture,  that  it  can  be  packed, 
and  will  keep  without  injury  almost  any  length  of  time. 
Here  we  made  preparation  for  the  remainder  of  my  journey 
to  Walla  Walla,  which  will  probably  occupy  about  twenty 
days. 

September  11th.  To-day  the  most  of  the  Nez  Perces 
and  Flatheads  left  us  to  continue  within  the  range  of  buf. 
falo,  that  they  might  secure  a  larger  store  of  provisions  be. 
fore  winter,  leaving,  however,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  to 
go  with  me  towards  Walla  Walla.  Before  they  left  us,  I  ex. 
perienced  another  token  of  their  regard  in  a  very  valuable 
present  of  twenty  very  fine  buffalo  tongues,  which  are  a 
great  delicacy,  together  with  a  large  quantity  of  dried  meat. 
I  reciprocated  the  kindness  by  making  such  presents  as 
were  in  my  power  to  bestow — among  which  was  a  britania 
cup  to  the  first  chief,  which  he  highly  valued,  and  some 
writing  paper,  requesting  that  this  last  article  might  be  pre, 
sented  to  those  missionaries,  whom  I  had  encouraged  him 
to  expect  next  year.  -  *v 

After  traveling  three  hours,  we  encamped  upon  the  same 
branch  of  the  Salmon  river,  to  give  the  Indians  an  oppor- 
tunity  to  dry  their  meat  more  thoroughly.  ' 

Pursued  our  journey,  on  the  12th,  down  the  eastern  branch 
of  Salmon  river  five  hours.  The  valley  through  which 
this  river  runs  is  generally  fertile,  and  varies  from  one  to 
three  or  four  miles  in  width,  but  as  we  advanced  toward  the 
Salmon  river  mountains,  the  mountains  upon  each  side  in. 
creased  in  height  and  converged  towards  each  other.  They 
presented  some  noble  prospects.  It  is  a  custom  with  Indi. 
ans  to  send  out  numbers  of  their  best  hunters  and  warriors, 
in  different  directions,  to  see  what  they  can  discover ;  and 
especially  when  they  are  apprehensive  any  enemies  may  bo 
near.     We  had  evidence,  from  tracks  recently  made,  that 


PREPAHATIONS  FOR  THEIR  RECEPTIOX. 


103 


Indians  of  some  other  nation,  or  tribe,  were  about  us  ;  and 
therefore  more  than  usual  numbers  of  our  men  were  flank- 
in"-  and  ahead.  On  the  banks  of  the  river  down  which  we 
were  traveUng,  there  was  a  dense  growth  of  willows,  ex- 
tending, however,  only  a  few  rods  into  the  bottom-lands. 
About  two  in  the  afternoon,  we  were  all  very  much  alarmed 
to  see  our  men,  who  were  out  as  hunters  and  guards  upon 
tlie  hills,  running  their  horses  full  speed,  in  an  oblique  direc- 
tion towards  us.  Two  of  them  were  our  principal  chiefs. 
We  knew  that  they  had  discovered  something  more  than  or- 
dinary, but  what  we  could  not  conjecture.  Being  in  a 
country  where  war  parties  of  Blackfeet  Indians  often  range, 
our  thoughts  were  turned  upon  danger  ;  and  soon  our  fears 
were  increased  by  seeing  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains  at 
our  left,  clouds  of  dust  arise,  and  in  the  obscure  distance 
were  seen  men  descending  as  swiftly  as  their  horses  could 
run.  They  were  so  far  off  that  we  could  not  determine 
who  they  were.  At  the  same  time  our  two  chiefs  on  the 
hills  halted  and  made  signals,  which  we  did  not  understand. 
In  addition  to  this,  some  of  the  Indians  said  they  saw  Blacks 
feet  Indians  in  the  willows,  not  far  off,  between  us  and  the 
chiefs  ;  and  our  belief  was  confirmed  that  it  was  so,  by  two 
deer  rushing  from  the  willows  towards  us,  and  when  they 
saw  us,  instead  of  returning,  they  only  declined  a  little 
to  the  left,  and  passed  before  us.  These  enquiries  arose  in 
my  mind  :  Why  have  the  chiefs  halted  ?  Do  they  see  en- 
emies between  us  and  themselves  ?  Are  their  signals  to  give 
us  warning  of  danger  ?  What  so  frightened  the  deer  that 
they  rushed  out  towards  us  ?  We  were  all  halted,  and  had 
made  what  preparation  we  could  for  battle.  As  we  did  not 
know  in  what  part  of  the  willows  to  make  the  attack,  we 
were  waiting  for  our  enemies  to  commence  the  fire,  and 
were  expecting  every  instant  to  have  their  balls  poured  in 
upon  us.  It  was  a  moment  of  awful  suspense.  We  sent 
out  a  few  men  upon  an  eminepce  to  our  right,  to  see  what 


'^"•.v 


■  *  f".  •' 


,;•'  .;.,.-^-Vi:f 


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wm 


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•rf.  ,• 


I..  -   *- 


.iffii"'  ■•  •  - 


104 


DISPOSAL  OF  THE  SLAIN. 


they  could  discover,  and  they  soon  returned  without  having 
seen  any  enemies.  The  two  chiefs  upon  the  hills  who  were 
now  joined  by  those  who  rushed  down  the  mountains,  and 
who  proved  to  be  some  of  our  own  men,  applied  their  whips 
to  their  horses,  and  in  full  speed  came  to  us ;  and  Charle, 
the  first  chief,  rode  up  to  me,  and  smiling,  reached  out  his 
hand  and  said,  "  cocoil,  cocoil,"  (buffalo,  buffalo.)  Thus 
ended  the  battle ;  and  the  remainder  of  the  day  was  spent 
in  killing  and  dressing  buffalo,  which  was  far  more  pleas. 
ant  than  fighting  Blackfeet  Indians.  This  made  a  desira. 
ble  addition  to  their  stock  of  provisions.  We  encamped  in 
this  place,  which  supplied  a  plenty  of  good  grass  for  our 
horses,  and  where  ther^wasno  want  of  fuel.        .       . 

The  inflammation  in  my  head  still  continued  with  throb. 
bing,  pain,  and  fever — my  pulse  one  hundred  a  minute, 
Bled  myself  again  nnd  took  medicine.  Thermometer,  at 
noon,  73°.         :  '      <  .        .  • 

Sabbath^  13th.  My  health  no  better,  and  my  strength 
was  failing.  I  felt  that  all  was  right,  and  that  I  needed  this 
trial  to  lead  me  to  an  examination  of  my  spiritual  condi. 
tion,  my  motives  in  engaging  in  this  mission,  und  whether  | 
I  could  give  up  all  for  Christ  to  promote  his  kingdom  in  the 
world,  I  thought  I  could  surrender  all  into  the  hands  of 
God,  my  soul  to  my  Redeemer,  and  my  body  to  be  buried  by  | 
these  Indians  in  this  desert  land.  I  felt  as  though  it  was 
desirable  to  finish  my  tour,  and  return  and  make  my  report, 
and  urge  the  sending  of  missionaries  into  this  field,  which 
is  white  for  the  harvest ;  and  to  the  bosom  of  my  family 
and  friends ;  but  still  I  would  not  have  any  will  of  my  own, 
but  say  the  will  of  the  Lord  be  done.  These  Indians  perse 
vere  in  their  kindness,  and  are  very  respectful,  and  ready  te 
obey  as  fast  as  I  can  impart  to  them  instruction ;  and  they 
say  that  what  I  say  to  them  is  different  from  any  thing  they 
have  ever  heard,  being  spiritual,  and  that  they  wish  to  have 
Sueapo  (American)  teacliers.     If  the  American  churches 


11'' 


PETRIFIED  STUMP. 


105 


will  not  send  them  teachers,  criminality  must  rest  upon 
I  them  for  disobedience  to  Christ's  authority.  Are  there  any 
lieathen  more  anxious  than  these  to  be  taught  the  way  of 
salvation,  and  where  there  are  so  few  hindrances  to  the  in- 
troduction of  the  gospel  ?  The;  have  no  idols,  no  sacrifi- 
ces, no  power  of  caste  to  combat :  and  as  yet  not  the  de- 
1  structive  influence  which  exists  upon  the  frontiers. 

September  14th.     Re-commenced  our  journey,  and  pro- 

Iceeded  five  hours  down  the  river,  and  stopped  a  few  miles 

above  the  main  branch  of  Salmon  river,  which  comes  from 

'the  south,  and  has  its  origin  in  two  small  lakes  in  the  moun- 

I tains  north  of  Henry's  fork. 

For  some  distance  on  our  way,  on  the  l')th,  the  mountains 
I  came  down  near  the  river,  rendering  the  valley  through 
hviiich  it  runs,  narrow.     Some  of  these  mountains  termi- 
luate  in  high  bluffs,  which  in  many  places  present  uncom- 
Imonly  interesting  strata.  The  lowest  presented  to  view  was 
|white  marly  earth,  about  twenty  feet  in  depth,  nearly  hori- 
zontal, and  somewhat  indurated ;  upon  this  a  green  strata 
)f  about  four  feet  thickness ;  next  a  strata  of  brown  of  about 
ten  feet ;  upon  this  a  strata  of  red  about  the  same  depth 
)f  the  green  ;  over  this  a  mould  of  decomposed  lava.    This 
[marly  earth  slightly  effervesces  with   acid.     The  rocks  in 
most  places  are  basalt — in  some  places  very  fine  wackc. 
[Noticing  some  unusual  appearances  in  the  condition  of  the 
earth  near  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  on  the  left,  I  rode  to  the 
[place,  and  found  a  cluster  of  volcanic  eruptions,  which, 
[though  ancient,  appeared  more  recent  than  any  I  liad  seen. 
[a  little  way  down  the  descent  into  one  of  the  craters,  I 
found  a  petrified  stump,  standing  in  its  natural  position ;  its 
roots  and  the  grain  of  the  wood  entire.     I  think  it  was  ce- 
[dar,  and  about  eighteen  inches  in  diameter.   This  stood,  un- 
[doubtcdly,  upon  what  was  the  natural  surface  of  the  earth, 
[and  the  mound  above  and  around  was  thrown  up  by  volcan- 
|ic  tires.     While  time  is  mouldering  the  lava  into  dust,  the 


.1  ■  ■ 


t 


''i^    '* 


106 


SCENB  OF  MOURNING. 


EJ'* 


:  I    III!':  ^    ■'. 


wind  is  scattering  it  over  the  country  around,  to  renew  the 
soil  which  was  destroyed  by  the  great  conflagration,  which 
once  fused  this  whole  region  of  the  setting  sun.    This  pet. 
rifled  stump,  found  in  this  position,  proves  that  this  country,  I 
which  now  is  so  destitute  of  wood,  was  once  far  better  sup. 
plied,  if  not  covered  with  forests.     Does  not  this  fact  over- 
throw  many  of  the  theories  of  the  formation  of  the  great  I 
prairies  of  the  west?     From  various  sources  of  evidence, it  | 
is  plain  that  these  prairie  regions  were  once  far  better  suppli. 
ed  with  wood  than  at  present,  and  also  that  the  present  sup.  | 
ply  is  constantly  diminishing. 

Passed,  to-day,  a  place  which  presented  a  very  mournful  I 
scene,  where  two  years  ago  thirty  Nez  Perce  young  men, 
who  were  killed  by  the  Blackfeet,  were  buried.      They 
were  all  active  young  men,  going  out  upon  some  expedition, 
the  nature  of  which  I  could  not  learn.   They  had  not  gone| 
but  a  little  way  from  the  village  which  encamped  here,  when, 
passing  through  a  very  narrow  deflle  on  a  small  stream  (i\ 
water,  walled  up  on  both  sides  with  perpendicular  rocks,  the! 
Blackfeet  Indians,  who  had  way  .laid  them,  attacked  them  I 
from  before  and  behind,  and  killed  all  but  one,  who  mountedl 
a  horse  belonging  to  the  Blackfeet  and  rushed  his  way 
through  the  opposing  enemy.  After  the  Blackfeet  Indians 
had  retired  from  the  place  of  slaughter,  the  Nez  Perces 
brought  away  the  dead  bodies  and  buried  them  in  this  place. 
According  to  their  mode,  they  buried  with  them  their  clothes,! 
blankets,  and  buflTalo  robes,  in  graves  only  about  three  feet 
deep,  putting  Ave  or  six  bodies  in  a  grave.     Some  time  af- 
ter this,  the  Blackfeet  Indians  came  and  dug  them  np,  and 
made  plunder  of  their  blankets  and  whatever  they  thought 
worth  taking;    The  Nez  Perces,  some  time  afterward,  caroe 
this  way  and  collected  their  bones  and  buried  them  again. 
The   graves  in  which  they  were  first  buried,  were  open 
when  we  passed,  and  fragments  of  garments  were  lyingl 
about.     Here  my  Indians  halted,  and  mourned  in  silence 


SCENE  OF  M0UBNIN6. 


107 


over  their  slaughtered  sons  and  brothers.  The  whole  scene 
was  very  afTecting,  and  I  could  not  but  long  for  the  time 
to  come)  when  they  shall  settle  down  in  a  christian  com- 
munity,  and  cease  from  their  dangerous  wanderings ;  and 
also  that  the  gospel  may  soon  be  sent  to  the  Blackfeet 
Indians,  and  that  they  may  imbibe  its  spirit  of  peace  on 
earth  and  good  will  toward  men.  After  some  time  spent  in 
reflections  and  solenm  mourning,  we  left  the  place  and  pro- 
ceeded  down  the  river,  and  encamped  near  Bonneville's 
Fort,  which  he  has  abandoned  and  which  is  situated  in 
a  small  pleasant  vale.  This  place  would  be  favourable  for 
fur  business,  was  it  not  that  it  is  on  ground  where  conflict, 
ing  tribes  often  meet. 


Mix  ♦^1 


ti 


\'^'l  >^'•,?E■^^^t'•!•;•^ 


:.  ■  ■-'  -  "    'I    i>  ■  • 


'  ■^:.v   , 


•:f 


n 


108 


SALMON  RIVER. 


■?•    I 


CHAPTER  VII. 


•»:;m 


Salmon  river  and  mountains— chiranies—forest  trees,  new  species  of 
pine — geology — sulphur  lake— a  rare  animal — new  species  of  squirrels 
and  pheasant — came  to  the  Lewis  branch  of  the  Columbia — ferryman 
— Basaltic  formation — fine  climate— arrive  at  Walla  Walla. 

...  ■        .     -  I     •       -       1 .    ■  .     i         ■      ■-     -  -  -  ,  t'*-^  i  '  • 

Salmon  river  is  a  beautiful  transparent  stream;  its 
shores  are  covered  with  pebbles  from  primitive  formation. 
In  less  than  a  mile  from  us,  upon  the  mountain  on  our  left, 
not  far  up  the  mountain  is  a  location  of  mineral  salt,  which 
I  saw,  which  is  pure  and  crystalized.  I  saw  some  whicli 
the  Indians  procured,  the  quality  of  which  is  good.  I  was 
anxious  to  go  and  visit  the  spot,  but  was  suffering  too  mucli| 
from  the  inflammation  in  my  head,  and  weakness  which  re- 
sulted from  its  continuance. 

Took  an  observation  of  latitude,  and  found  it  to  be  44"^  I 
41'.  And  after  passing  down  the  river  two  hours  in  a 
north-west  direction,  we  entered  into  the  mountains,  leav. 
ing  Salmon  river  on  our  left.  And  the  river  literally  pass, 
ed  into  the  mountains;  for  the  opening  in  the  perpendicular 
rocks,  two  or  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  up  these  mount, 
ains  several  thousand  feet  high,  was  wide  enough  only  fo; 
the  river  to  find  a  passage.  It  flowed  into  the  dark  chasm, 
and  we  saw  it  no  more.  During  the  two  hours  ride,  before 
we  entered  the  mountains,  the  scenery  was  grand.  While 
there  was  some  level  bottom-land  along  the  river,  in  every 
direction  mountains  were  seen  rising  above  mountains,  and  I 
peeks  above  peeks,  up  to  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow. 
These  mountains  are  not  so  much  in  chains,  as  of  a  conical 
form,  with  bases  in  most  instances  in  small  proportfon  to 
their  height.     So  much  sublimity  and  grandeur,  combined 


l|)  ■;  •    9'  'i 


THE  CHIMNEYS. 


109 


with  so  much  variety  is  rarely  presented  to  view.  The  ge- 
ology was  mii'^h  as  in  days  past.  Horizontal  strata  as  yes. 
terday,  v:ith  interchanges  of  white,  green,  red,  and  brown  ; 
and  in  one  place,  for  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  a  vertical 
tVont  was  presented,  facing  the  south-west,  ^f  one  hundred 
I  and  fifty,  and  two  hundred  feet  high,  resting  upon  a  base  of 
cont^lomerated  rock.  The  stones  of  which  are  round,  of 
primitive  origin,  cemented  with  marly  clay,  petrified,  and  of 
tlie  various  colors  already  mentioned.  The  opposite  side  of 
I  the  river  is  studded  with  dark  basalt. 

After  leaving  the  Salmon  river,  and  going  through  some 
(narrows  on  a  small  stream  of  water  coming  from  the  north- 
Icast,  we  came  to  a  more  open  space,  and  to  what  I  called 
the  chimneys,  standing  near  the  base  of  a  mountain.    There 
{were  thirty  or  forty  of  them,  appearing  very  much  like 
stone  chimneys  of  log  houses,  between  ten  and  forty  feet 
ligh.     They  are  composed  of  conglomerated  rock,  of  a 
somewhat  slaty  form,  which  makes  them  appear  the  more 
like  the  work  of  men.     From  this  place  we  turned  more 
l^vesterly,  and  passed  a  high  mountain,  parts  of  which  were 
rery  steep,  and  encamped  in  a  valley  by  a  stream  of  crys- 
tal water. 

On  the  17th,  we  pursued  our  jouwiey  over  high  moun- 
[ains,  which,  in  some  places,  were  intersected  by  deep  ra- 
iines  very  difficult  to  be  passed.  Encamped  in  a  grove  of 
large  Norway  pines. 

September  18th.  The  villages  of  Indians  make  slow  pro- 
gress in  traveling,  and  being  desirous  to  expedite  my  jour- 
bey  to  some  of  the  posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
took  ten  Indians  and  went  forward,  leaving  the  remain- 
Ber  to  follow  on  at  their  leisure.  We  ))assed  over  a  moun- 
lain  more  than  six  thousand  feet  high,  which  took  more 
|lian  half  a  day  to  arrive  at  the  summit.  These  mountains 
ire  covered  with  woods,  excepting  some  small  proportional 

parts  which  are  open  and  furnish  grass  for  our  horses. 
10 


..■■•"    ,.■  '■  fl    -M,  Jl>  . 


.'it- 
.  -1. 


\' 


'       I- 


■  r  ' 


■r       H      ■" 


|!/«;?; 


110 


THE  ELASTIC  PINE. 


The  woods  are  composed  mainly  of  fir,  spruce,  Norway 
pine,  and  a  new  species  of  pine.  Tiie  leaves  of  this  new 
species  resemble  those  of  pitch  pine,  growing  in  bunches  at 
the  ends  of  the  limbs,  being  shorter  and  smaller  ;  the  bark 
and  the  body  of  the  tree  resembling  the  tamarack,  the  wood 
firm  and  very  elastic.  On  account  of  this  last  and  peculiar 
property,  I  have  called  it  the  elastic  pine.  It  grows  very 
tall  and  straight  and  without  limbs  except  near  the  top.  Thev 
undoubtedly  would  make  excellent  masts  and  spars  for  ship. 
ping.  On  experiments  which  I  made,  I  found  it  very  diffi. 
cult  to  break  limbs  an  inch  in  diameter.  After  passing 
part  of  the  way  down  this  mountain,  we  encamped  by  a 
small  spring. 

We  arose  early  on  the  19th,  and  commenced  our  day's 
labor,  and  by  diligence  went  more  than  twice  the  distance  | 
than  when  we  were  with  the  village.  We  were  much  an. 
noyed  by  trees  fallen  across  the  trail.  Encamped  upon  the  I 
south-east  side  of  a  very  high  mountain,  where  there  was  a 
large  opening,  a  spring  of  water,  and  a  good  supply  of 
grass  for  our  horses. 

Sabbath,  20th,     Continued  in  the  same  encampment,  to  I 
rest  according  to  the  commandment.     I  told  Charle  he  had 
better  spend  a  part  of  the  day  with  his  men  in  devotional 
exercises.    They  all  knelt  down,  and  he  prayed  with  them; 
afler  which  he  talked  with  them  a  considerable  time,  con. 
corning  the  things  which  I  had  taught  them.     It  was  truly | 
interesting  to  see  these  poor  heathen  upon  their  knees  try- 
ing to  worship  God  according  to  the  instructions  of  the  I 
scriptures.      How  can  any  christian  refrain  from  doing 
what  he  can  to  give  the  lamp  of  life  to  these  benighted 
souls,  and  especially,  seeing  they  are  so  anxious  to  know 
the  way  of  salvation,  and  so  ready  to  do*     After  they  had| 
closed  their  worship,  I  sang  a  hymn,  and  prayed,  and  con. 
versed  with  them. 

The  inflammation  in  my  head  continuing^  I  bled  myscifl 


REFLECTIONS. 


Ill 


3d  our  dav's 


copiously,  which  reduced  my  pulse  for  a  while,  but  increas- 
ed my  weakness,  so  that  I  could  walk  but  a  few  rods  with- 
out much  fatigue. 

Sometimes,  amidst  all  the  evidences  of  God's  mercy  to 
me,  I  found  my  heart  sinking  into  despondency,  and  was 
ready  to  say,  I  shall  perish  in  these  wild,  cold  mountains. 
It  seemed,  that  such  was  my  failure  of  strength,  and  I  was 
becoming  so  emaciated,  that  I  could  not  endure  the  fatigue 
of  traveling  eight  days  more  over  these  mountains  which  are 
on  an  average  about  six  thousand  feet  high  ;  and  as  they 
range  north  and  south,  with  only  very  narrow  valleys  be- 
tween, and  our  course  was  only  a  little  north  of  west,  we 
were  constantly  ascending  and  descending  ;  and  we  could 
not  discontinue  our  journey  for  the  want  of  provisions. 
The  thought,  that  I  must  fail  of  accomplishing  the  object  of 
my  mission,  and  close  my  life  without  a  sympathizing  friend 
near  with  whom  I  could  converse  and  pray,  and  be  buried  in 
these  solitary  mountains,  filled  me  with  a  gloom  which  I  knew 
was  wrong.  My  judgment  was  clear,  but  I  could  not  make 
it  influence  the  feelings  of  my  heart.  At  night,  I  some- 
times thought  a  pillow  desirable,  upon  which  to  lay  my  ach- 
ing, throbbing  head,  but  my  portmanteau  was  a  very  good 
substitute,  and  I  rested  quietly  upon  the  ground,  and  every 
morning  arose  refreshed  by  sleep. 

Monday,  21st.  At  a  very  early  hour  we  resumed  our 
journey,  and  our  horses  being  recruited  with  the  rest  and 
good  fare  they  had  yesterday,  made  a  long  day's  journey, 
considering  the  height  of  the  mountain  over  which  we 
passed,  and  the  rocks  and  trees  obstructing  the  trail.  I  had 
noticed  the  mountain  over  which  we  passed  to-day,  which 
is  about  seven  thousand  feet  high,  two  days  before  we  arrived 
at  the  top ;  and  queried  in  my  mind  whether  Charle,  my 
guide,  would  not  depart  in  this  instance  from  the  common 
custom  of  the  Indians,  which  is  to  pass  over  the  highest 
parts  of  mountains,  and  to  descend  i^to  the  lowest  valleys* 


y  ,  '•'"■'■'im'*'  ;■  .Vii. ''  ■ 


v .  i.',r  »■ 


;>'■ 
>'.- 


112 


A  CURIOSITY. 


i^i.-J 


J--' 


But  we  passed  the  highest  part,  except  one  peak,  which,  in 
nearly  all  its  parts,  is  perpendicular,  and  rises  like  an  ini. 
mense  castle  or  pyramid.  It  is  composed  of  basalt ;  and 
around  it  volcanic  rocks  lie  scattered  in  great  profusion. 
At  the  base  there  are  also  excavations,  around  and  below 
which  there  is  much  lava.  This  is  a  granite  mountain, 
much  of  which  is  in  its  natural  state.  The  way  by  which 
I  calculated  the  height  of  these  mountains  is,  that  some  of 
them  are  tipped  with  perpetual  snow ;  and  as  eight  thou, 
sand  feet,  in  latitude  42°,  is  the  region  of  perpetual  snow, 
so  there  can  be  no  doubt,  as  these  do  not  vary  greatly  from 
each  other,  that  they  average  six  thousand  feet. 

I  was  much  interested  with  a  curiosity  upon  this  moun. 
tain,  which  was  two  granite  rocks,  each  weighing  many 
tons,  placed  one  upon  the  other,  like  the  parts  of  an  hour 
glass.  It  was  wonderful  how  nicely  the  uppermost  one  was 
balanced  upon  the  other.  It  would  seem  that  a  puff  of 
wind  would  blow  it  off  its  centre.  Charle,  the  chief,  seeing 
me  one  day  examining,  with  a  magnifying  glass,  some  min. 
erals,  said,  "  these  white  men  know  every  thing.  They 
know  what  rocks  are  made  of,  they  know  how  to  make  iron, 
and  how  to  make  watches,  and  how  to  make  the  needle  al- 
ways  point  to  the  north."  They  had  seen  a  compass  be. 
fore,  and  when  I  showed  them  mine,  they  said, "  that  would 
keep  me  from  getting  lost."  Encamped  upon  a  mountain 
by  a  small  spring,  where  there  was  but  little  grass.  A  wa- 
ter  fall  was  seen  descending  down  a  high  point  of  the  same 
mountain,  which,  by  its  continual  foaming,  looked  like  a 
white  belt  girding  its  side. 

Left  our  encampment,  on  the  22d,  at  an  early  hour  and 
continued  our  mountainous  journey.  Parts  of  the  way  the 
ascent  and  descent  was  at  an  angle  of  45°  and  some  places 
even  more  steep  ;  and  sometimes  on  the  verge  of  dizzy  pre. 
cipices  ;  sometimes  down  shelves  of  rocks  where  my  Indi- 
an horse  would  have  to  jump  from  one  to  another  ;  and  in 


§  h 


OEOLOGT. 


119 


other  places  he  would  brace  himself  upon  all  fours  and 
slide  down ;  and  I  had  become  so  weak  that  I  could  not 
walk  on  foot,  but  was  obliged  to  keep  upon  his  back.  Fre- 
quently between  the  mountains  there  would  be  space  enough 
only  for  a  rushing  stream  of  the  purest  water  to  find  its 
way ;  the  bank  on  the  one  side  of  which  would  terminate 
the  descent  of  one  mountain,  and  the  other  bank  commence 
the  ascent  of  another.  The  question  often  arose  in  my 
mind,  can  this  section  of  country  ever  be  inhabited,  unless 
these  mountains  shall  be  brought  low,  and  these  valleys  shall 
be  exalted  ?  But  they  may  be  designed  to  perpetuate  it 
supply  of  lumber  for  the  wide-spread  prairies ;  and  they  may 
contain  mines  of  treasures,  which,  when  wrought,  will  need 
these  forests  for  fuel,  and  these  rushing  streams  for  water 
power.  Roads  may  be  constructed  running  north  and  south, 
so  that  transportations  may  be  made  south  to  the  Salmon 
river,  and  north  to  the  Cooscootske.* 

After  a  fatiguing  day's  march,  we  encamped  in  a  lovr 
stony  place  where  there  was  but  little  grass,  for  the  want 
of  which  some  of  our  horses  strayed  away.  Our  men 
killed  a  deer,  which  was  a  very  agreeable  exchange  from 
dried  buffalo. 

The  mountains,  over  which  we  made  our  way  on  the  23d, 
were  of  primitive  formation,  with  the  exception  of  soma 
parts  which  were  volcanic.  Granite  and  mica  slate  pre- 
dominated. In  one  place  there  were  immense  quantities  of 
granite,  covering  more  than  a  hundred  acres,  in  a  broken 
state,  as  though  prepared  for  making  walls,  mostly  in  cubic 
forms.  In  some  places  the  change  from  granite,  in  its  nat- 
ural state,  to  amygdaloid,  was  so  gradual,  that  it  would  be 
difficult  to  say,  where  the  one  ended  and  the  other  began  ; 


*Thename  of  this  river  in  the  journal  of  Clarke  and  Lewis,  is  written 
Cooscooakee,  and  so  in  all  other  writings  I  have  seen.    This  signifies  the 
water  water.      But  Cooscootske  signifies  the  little  water.    Coos,  water;, 
coots,  little ;  ke,  the.    The  little  river. 
10* 


f..'- V    .    ...  .  ,.   . 


I  ■■' 


1"- 


•■•"■*'■ 


I    t  ■ 

1  '  • 


'.^;j- 


'....-■:  "t 


•J  • 

.  I. 


Pi/"; 

k.*,T>--» 
A* 


'  r-         -'"'■ 


Ei:.^c- 


» 


#',:?:;- ^ 


ifrlil'lll'lili'j;'      - 


114 


MOUNTAIN  LAKES. 


like  the  change  from  day  to  night.  While  riding  along  up. 
on  a  narrow  ridge  of  this  mountain,  I  saw  two  small  lakes 
a  little  down  the  sides  ;  one  on  the  right  hand  which  ap. 
peared  to  be  very  black,  and  the  other  upon  the  left  was 
very  yellow  with  sulphur,  issuing  from  a  spring  in  the  moun. 
tain  side.  These  two  lakes  were  directly  opposite  each 
other,  and  not  far  distant.  I  should  have  examined  them 
more  minutely,  had  my  strength  permitted  me  to  go  down 
to  them,  and  again  ascend  to  where  I  must  have  left  my 
horse.  There  was  also  much  in  the  scenery  around  to  as. 
tonish ;  mountain  rising  above  mountain,  and  perpendicular 
above  perpendicular. 

Encamped  in  a  valley,  where  there  was  a  small  meadow 
well  supplied  with  grass.  The  woods  around  were  very 
dense,  composed  mostly  of  the  new  species  of  pine,  which 
here  were  very  tall,  straight,  and  not,  however,  very  large 
in  diameter. 

Took  an  early  departure,  on  the  24th,  from  our  encamp. 
ment,  and  made  good  progress  through  the  day.  About  the 
middle  of  the  day,  we  came  to  where  we  could  look  forward 
without  the  sight  being  obstructed  by  mountains,  and  it 
was  pleasant  to  have  a  prospect  opening  into  the  wide 
world.  Continued  to  descend,  until  we  came  into  a  vale  of 
considerable  extent,  through  which  flows  a  large  branch  of 
the  Cooscootske.  Found  to-day  a  new  species  of  elder, 
which  grows  very  large,  five  or  six  inches  in  diameter,  and 
from  ten  to  twenty  feet  high,  bearing  berries  which  are  blue 
and  pleasant  to  the  taste.  Kentuc  caught  me  some  fine 
trout. 

Here  was  a  band  of  horses,  belonging  to  the  Nez  Perces, 
which  they  left  here  last  spring.  They  were  in  fine  order.  It 
is  remarkable  that  their  horses  do  not  wander  far  from  where 
they  are  left,  although  there  are  no  fences  to  inclose  them. 
Here  some  of  my  Indians  changed  their  horses  and  took 


A  RARE  ANIMAL,  NEW  SPECIES. 


115 


fresh  ones,  relieving  those  which  were  worn  down  with  long 
journeying. 

On  the  25th,  we  pursued  our  course  down  this  fertile  vale, 
until  one  in  the  afternoon,  when  contrary  to  my  expecta- 
tions, we  had  to  leave  this  branch  of  the  Cooscootske, 
which  was  too  much  of  a  northerly  direction,  and  ascended 
another  high  mountain,  which  was  densely  covered  with 
woods.  Among  the  largest  trees  is  a  new  species  of  fir, 
single  leafed,  the  bark  thick  and  rough  like  the  bark  of  hem- 
lock, but  the  balsam  is  the  same  as  the  common  fir.  I  saw 
more  birds  in  this  valley,  than  in  all  the  country  through 
I  which  I  had  passed  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  robins 
in  great  numbers,  the  magpie,  and  with  them  a  new  species 
of  bird  about  as  large  as  the  magpie,  its  color  uniformly  a 
dull  red,  somewhat  resembling  chocolate.  Thermometer 
[stood  at  54°. 

On  the  26th,  we  proceeded  about  four  hours  on  our  way, 
land  encamped  on  the  side  of  a  mountain  near  its  summit ; 
[the  distance  to  another  place  suitable  for  our  horses  over 
sabbath,  being  too  great.  Saw  to-day  a  new  species  of  an- 
imal, such  as  I  never  saw  before.     It  was  about  as  large  as 

martin,  and  probably  of  that  genus.  Its  color  was  a 
mght  orange  red,  resembling  a  live  coal  of  fire ;  its  fur  ap- 

eared  to  be  very  fine ;  its  head  round  and  large  ;  its  eyes 
black,  prominent,  and  very  piercing.  I  was  forward  of  my 
Indians,  and  when  it  saw  me,  it  sprang  about  eight  feet  up 

tree,  ran  part  of  the  way  up,  but  appeared  to  be  afraid  to 
iscend  higher.  Attempts  were  made  to  obtain  it,  but  with. 
Dut  success.  An  Indian  hit  it  with  an  arrow,  but  did  not 
(ill  it.  It  came  down  and  escaped.  Saw  in  these  moun- 
tains  a  new  variety  of  striped  squirrel,  only  about  half  as 
jiarge  as  those  found  in  the  United  States ;  also  another 
and,  in  every  respect  resembling  the  red  squirrel,  excepting 
its  color.  It  is  nearly  black,  excepting  its  under  parts, 
Iwhich  are  rufous,  or  reddish  yellow.    Also  a  new  species  of 


I.  '* 


■    ,       -.-K/'^ 


'  fl  j5  •-•  r 


». 


i.-, 


116 


A  CHIEF  S  ANXIETY. 


fear       - 


\l.'  ?^  ■ 


i(l,  ■•. 


pheasant,  if  it  may  be  called  a  pheasant.  It  is  much  smal. 
ler  than  the  common ;  somewhat  lighter  colored,  and  more 
spotted ;  its  habits  are  gregarious  like  the  common  quail. 
It  was  remarkably  tame,  as  if  unacquainted  with  enemies ; 
and  when  assailed  with  stones  by  the  Indians,  appeared  to 
l)e  amazed,  and  made  scarcely  any  effort  to  escape.  Their 
flesh  was  very  good,  and  furnished  an  additional  supply  to 
our  waning  stock  of  provisions. 

Sabbath,  27th.  Continued  in  our  encampment.  My 
health  no  better— sweat  profusely  last  night,  and  yet  the  in. 
flammation  was  rather  increasing — took  from  my  arm  a  pint 
of  blood,  which,  while  it  weakened,  gave  me  relief. 

We  had  religious  services  in  the  fore  and  after  part  of  the  I 
day,  as  last  sabbath.      Charle  prays  every  morning  and 
evening  with  his  men,  also  asks  a  blessing  when  they  eat. 
In  the  afternoon,  he  took  Compo,  my  interpreter,  and  came  | 
and  sat  down  by  me,  and  said,  "  we  are  now  near  our  coun. 
try,  and  when  we  come  into  it,  I  wish  you  to  look  over  it,  I 
and  see  if  it  is  good  for  missionaries  to  live  in.      I  know 
but  little  about  God — my  people  know  but  little — I  wish  my 
people  to  know  more  about  God."     He  said  he  wished  to 
talk  with  me  much  more,  and  was  sorry  I  had  not  a  better 
qualified  interpreter.      Besides  the  bible,  read  part  of  a  lit- 
tie  book  called  "Christ  precious." 

Monday,  28th.  In  better  health.  Madealongday'smarcll 
and  emerged  from  the  mountains,  two  o'clock  in  the  afterj 
noon.    Not  finding  water  as  we  expected,  where  to  rest,  we  I 
were  obliged  to  travel  on  until  near  night,  when  we  camel 
to  another  branch  of  the  Cooscootske,  by  which  we  found  I 
several  lodges  of  Nez  Perce  Indians.     A  salute  was  fired, I 
and  then  we  were  welcomed  with  a  ceremonious,  but  hearty 
shaking  of  hands.     They  then  feasted  us  with  some  excel- 
lent  dried  salmon,  for  which  I  made  them  some  small  presents. 
I  was  rejoiced  to  find  myself  wholly  through  the  Salmon 
river  mountains,  and  convalescent.    These  mountains  weie| 


',(;i| 


II,'  ■•"■♦'■■ 


'•',* 


MEETING  WITH  INDIANS. 


117 


far  worse  to  pass  than  the  Rocky  Mountains,  as  we  could 
not  take  advantage  of  any  valley,  excepting  one  in  which 
y/e  journeyed  only  two-thirds  of  a  day.  Excepting  the 
middle  of  the  days,  the  atmosphere  was  cold,  and  frequently 
ice  was  formed  during  the  night.  It  was  a  favor  that  we 
had  no  snow,  which  often  falls  upon  the  tops  >f  these  moun. 
tains  very  early  in  the  autumn  ;  nor  Ijad  we  any  storms,  or 
[verv  unpleasant  weather  in  our  i);issage  over.  Frequently 
heavy  gales  of  winds  sweep  through  these  mountains,  Jind 
blow  down  parts  of  the  forests  ;  but  we  had  none  to  endan- 
ger us.        ^ 

On  the  29th,  we  proceeded  down  this  branch  more  than 
Ihalf  the  day,  and  found  the  soil  black  and  good,  well  cov- 
ered with  grass,  which,  however,  was  dried  into  hay  by  the 
summer  drouth.  Here,  as  on  most  prairies,  there  is  much 
Avant  of  wood,  there  being  but  little  besides  what  is  found 
ilong  the  streams  of  water.  This  country  continues  to  be 
rolcanic,  as  is  evinced  by  the  abundance  of  lava  and  basalt, 
'ame  at  noon  to  six  lodges  of  Indians,  who  welcomed  us 
|ivith  the  same  friendly  expressions,  as  did  those  where  we 
encamped  the  last  night.  Left  the  branch  of  the  Cooscoots- 
^e  and  ascended  westerly  to  the  upper  prairies,  which  are  as 
jfertile  as  the  lower,  and  do  not  suffer  any  more  with  the 
Jrouth.  After  a  long  fatiguing  ride  over  these  prairies,  we 
jescended  into  a  deep  gulf,  almost  enclosed  with  perpendic- 
iiar  walls  of  basalt ;  in  the  bottom  of  which,  we  found  a 
large  spring  of  water,  by  which  we  encamped. 

Arose  very  early  on  the  30th,  set  forward,  and  made  good 
kogressj  considering  the  exhausted  state  of  our  horses, 
^und  most  of  the  streams  dried  up,  and  one,  which  is 
generally  large,  and  where  we  intended  to  have  arrived  last 
iight,  was  wholly  destitute  of  water  and  grass.  Ascend- 
ing out  of  this  gulf,  we  found,  toward  the  summit  of  the 
^igh  prairie,  a  good  spring  of  water,  with  sufficiency  of 
jrass,  where  we  refreshed  ourselves  at  noon .  The  horses,  con- 


•'  •    •  r    :.    i>;'    ,  I!,      ■  ►' 


^ 


I 


'   ^1 

':  ■  •■ 

;;■.;■         1 

':.^y- 

•1  ,  "    ■ 

Mi;, 

'ii' 

\   t 

.■■■'^; 

- 

'.  ■  •  • 

■T,.*-     ■ 

'    ~  'I 

'■'  V    '  - 

;■•'<:■  i'- 

■"■    •?■ 

1:'i\- 

•^'l':-' 

tM;  ■ 

'■■.     ": 

^^'■^•i^' 

^f-^ 

...   ! 


..;-J  ■ 


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..-.v. 


;if  :•* 


;17-: 


^ImJ 


i ., 

^ 

■ 

* 

'Ir', 

, 

Illll 

Ifl'^'^ 

11 

f 

118 


DBOUTHS, 


trary  to  my  expectations,  preferred  the  dried  grass  to  the 
green.  In  the  afternoon,  we  went  through  a  section  of  coun. 
try  well  supplied  with  woods,  chiefly  made  up  of  yellowl 
pine  and  white  oak ;  where  also  much  of  the  soil  appeareii 
to  be  very  good.  Towards  night  we  came  to  a  stream  oi 
water  running  west,  where  we  encamped.  Thermometerl 
82°  at  noon. 

Thursday,  October  1st.  Arose  early  with  substantially i 
better  health,  for  which  I  cannot  be  too  thankful.  After 
traveling  a  few  miles,  we  came  to  several  lodges  of  Xezj 
Perces,  who  gave  us  their  kind  welcome,  and  seemed,  aJ 
also  at  the  other  lodges,  pleased  to  see  their  first  chicfj 
They  manifested  much  the  same  feelings  on  learning  wliol 
I  was,  and  the  object  of  my  coming  into  their  country,  as  dif I 
tlieir  countrymen  whom  we  met  at  the  rendezvous.  ^Vitij 
these  Indians,  I  left  two  of  my  horses,  which  were  too  mucJ 
exhausted  with  the  fatigues  of  my  long  journey  to  procewl 
any  farther.  I  had  fears  that  they  would  not  endure  tliJ 
deprivations  of  the  coming  winter,  without  any  shelter  fioii| 
the  cold  and  storms,  and  with  nothing  to  eat,  except  \^ha^ 
they  could  find  upon  the  prairies. 

Arrived,  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  at  the  Lewis  brant 
of  the  Columbia  river,  near  the  confluence  of  the  CooscootiJ 
ke.     Though  this  is  a  large  river,  yet  on  account  of  ili 
summer's  drouth,  there  is  less  water  flowing  down  its  chaii] 
nel  than  I  anticipated. 

A  squalid  looking  Indian  took  us  over  the  ferry  in  a  ca| 
noe,  which  appeared  as  weather-beaten  as  himself,  and  re| 
minded  me  of  fabled  Charon  and  his  cerulean  boat. 

This  country  diflers  very  much  from  what  I  had  expected! 
for  while  the  soil  is  generally  good,  and  furnishes  a  suppl;| 
for  grazing,  yet  there  is  sucii  want  of  summer  rains,  \\& 
some  kinds  of  grain  cannot  flourish,  especially  Indian  cornj 
The  crops  sown  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  or  very  early  in 
spring,  would  probably  be  so  far  advanced  before  the  sever! 


^rass  to  the 
ion  of  coun. 
ip  of  yellow! 
oil  appearei! 
a  stream  oil 
rhermometerl 

substantially  I 
ikful.  After 
(dges  of  Neil 
d  seemed,  a;| 
•  first  chief,! 
learning  vliJ 
juntry,  as  ditl 
5VOUS.  ^Vi^J 
vere  too  mucti 
;y  to  proce«l 
ot  endure  m 
ly  shelter  frou 
except  \\\& 

Lewis  brand 
;he  CooscooL^ 
count  of  ill 
lown  its  chaBJ 

3rry  in  a  caj 
iself,  and  rt] 
boat. 

had  cxpecteii 

\hes  a  suppl;] 

ir  rains,  tte 

Indian  cornj 

early  in 

lore  the  seveil 


GEOLOGY. 


119 


ity  of  the  drouth  should  be  felt,  that  they  would  do  Avell. 
In  general  there  is  a  great  want  of  wood  for  building,  fenc- 
ing, and  fuel;  but  at  the  confluence  of  these  rivers  a  sup- 
ply may  be  brought  down  the  Cooscootske.  This  place 
I  combines  many  advantages  for  a  missionary  station. 

I  began  to  doubt  the  correctness  of  the  statements    of 
I  some  travelers,  in  regard  to  the  great  numbers  of  wild  horses, 
and  the  immense  multitudes  of  wolves,  which  they  say  they 
saw  this  side  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  for  as  yet  I  had  seen 
no  wild  horses,  and  only  a  very  few  wolves.     Encamped 
[upon  the  west  bank  of  Lewis'  river,  or,  as  it  is  more  com- 
lonly  called,  the  Snake  river. 
On  the  2d,  we  arose  early,  but  were  detained  some  time  be- 
jfore  all  our  horses  could  be  found.     Set  out  about  eight,  and 
Ipreceeded  three  hours  down  the  river  to  a  place  where  it  takes 
|a  northerly  bend,  through  a  section  of  mountains,  which 
ire  difficult  to  be  passed.     Our  direct  course  to  Walla 
Walla  being  west  north-west,  we  here  left  the  river  and  fol- 
lowed a  small  stream  up  a  valley  nearly  to  its  source.     The 
section  of  country  through  which  we  journeyed  to-day  was 
considerably  mountainous.     One  part  of  the  river  along 
^vhich  we  traveled  was  walled  up  with  volcanic  rocks.  The 
lowest  part  was  amygdaloid,  about  thirty  feet  high  above  the 
jriver,  and  very  cellular,  terminating  in  a  narrow  horizontal 
)lain,      Above  this  is  superimposed  columnar  basalt ;  the 
columns  of  which  are  regular  pentagons,  varying  from  two 
|tofour  feet  in  diameter,  rising  sixty  feet  high,  perpendicular 
excepting  in  one  place,  where  they  were  a  little  inclining, 
lAbove  this  formation  of  columns  there  was  a  stratum  of 
rolcanic  stones  and  disintegrated  basalt,  of  some  six  or  eight 
Ifeet  thickness,  lying  in  a  confused  state.     Then  uj)on  this 
another  section  of  basalt  and  amygdaloid  of  fifty  feet  depth, 
and  so  on  to  the  height  of  300  feet  nearly  perpendicular. 
The  pentagons  are  as  regularly  formed,  and  have  much  the 
same  appearance^  as  those  composing  the  Giant's  causeway 


■■  \ 


120 


GAMMAS  BOOT. 


mr'^: 


in  Ireland.  From  the  best  observations  I  could  make,  I  was 
led  to  conclude  that  the  different  sections  were  raised  by 
widely  extended  subterranean  fires,  and  at  different  periods 
of  time.  The  basalt  in  this  place,  and  also  in  almost  all 
other  places,  which  I  have  yet  seen,  is  of  very  dark  color, 
containing  augite,  or  black  oxid  of  iron  ;  and  is  what  sonie, 
who  have  been  in  this  country,  have  called  black  rocks. 

Saturday  3d.     We  took  an  early  departure  from  our  tr. 
campment.     We  had  through  the  day,  an  uncommonly  liitjii  I 
wind  from  the  west,  a  pleasant  sun,  and  serene  atmosphere. 
We  have  had  no  rain  since  the  18th  of  July,  and  not  inore| 
than  five  cloudy  days.     The  water  this  side  the  Rocky 
Mountains  is  excellent,  and  no  country  can  possess  a  climate  I 
more  conducive  to  health.     After  passing  over  a  somewhat 
hilly  country  well  covered  with  grass,  we  encamped  for  tli-; 
night,  and  for  the  sabbath,  in  a  fertile  vale  upon  an  upper 
branch  of  the  Walla  Walla  river.     Here  we  found  three 
lodges  of  Nez  Perces  who  were  out  on  a  hunt  for  deer,  and 
whose  women  were  gathering  cammas  roots.     This  root  in 
some  degree  resembles  in  taste  and  nutritive  properties  t!ie 
sweet  potato,  and  constitutes  a  large  item  of  food  of  the  I 
Indians  througout  a  considerable  section  of  country  this 
side  Salmon  river  and  Salmon  river  mountains.     The  coml 
mon  tokens  of  friendship  were  interchanged ;  and  they  pre- 
sented us  a  share  of  such  food  as  they  had,  and  on  my  parti 
made  them  some  small  presents. 

Sabbath,  4th.     We  had  public  worship,  at  which  all  tiiel 
men,  women,  and  children  of  three  lodges  attended.     What 
tiiere  was  of  a  truly  spiritual  nature  in  our  worship,  waj| 
known  to  the  searcher  of  hearts,  but  there  was  the  appear- 
ance of  devotion,  and  good  attention  was  paid  to  what  was  I 
said.     It  is  affecting  to  see  the  anxiety  these  Indians  mani- 
fest to  know  what  they  must  do  to  please  God,  and  to  obtain  | 
salvation. 

Employed  part  ol  the  day  in  reading  Vincent's  Explana- 


K     ■    ; 
I  U     '  ' 


1''' 


FRIENDLY  RECEPTION. 


121 


tion  of  thecatech'^^m.  This  is  an  excellent  compendium  of 
divinity,  and  is  far  too  much  neglected  in  families  and  sab- 
I  bath  schools. 

Decamped  early,  on  the  5th,  and  pursued  our  journey 
I  down  the  Walla  Walla  river,  upon  some  parts  of  which 
I  there  is  a  good  supply  of  wood — yellow  pine,  cotton- wood, 
i  and  willows,  and  various  kinds  of  shrubbery,  of  which  the 
kvild  rose  is  no  small  part.     Through  most  parts  of  this  val- 
ley the  soil  is  good,  and  in  some  places  widely  extended, 
i  We  find  but  very  little  game  of  any  kind.     Some  prairie 
liens  and  avosets — some  robins,  and  a  few  other  small  birds 
of  new  species.      The  crow  is  seen  everywhere,  and  hero 
Ithey  are  remarkably  tame.     The  Indians  having  no  induce- 
Inients  to  molest  them,  they  do  not  fear  man  as  their  com- 
Imon  enemy.     Our  encampment  was  on  the  same  brancli 
|of  the  Walla  Walla  where  there  were  high  bluffs  on  botli 
sides. 

October  6th.  We  arose  early  and  commenced  our  jour- 
Iney  with  animating  hope  of  reaching  Walla  Walla  and  of 
Being  civilized  people  before  noon.  Ascended  the  bluffs 
nid  passed  over  an  undulating  prairie  of  good  soil,  leaving 
IWalla  Walla  river  to  our  left.  As  we  drew  near  the  Co- 
lumbia river  the  soil  became  more  and  more  sandy.  Before 
ne  arrived  at  the  fort,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  seeing 
some  cows  and  other  cattle,  in  fine  order,  feeding  upon  the 
jbottom-land  ;  and  the  sight  was  not  only  novel,  after  hav- 
ing been  so  long  from  civilized  life,  but  the  more  interesting 
3n  account  of  being  unexpected.  As  we  came  near  the 
fort,  the  Indians  fired  their  customary  salute,  and  then  rush- 
ed forward  to  the  gate.  Mr.  P.  C.  Pambrun,  the  superin- 
tendent, met  us  at  the  gate,  and  gave  me  a  kind  welcome. 
11  never  felt  more  joy  in  entering  a  habitation  of  civilized 
[people,  and  whose  language  was  not  strange.  I  felt  that  I 
liad  great  cause  of  thankfulness,  that  God,  in  his  great  mer- 
U 


;'■-*•{■■,■•■ 


■,'.■;■  i'«^''--"' ■•-•7'.   • 
N  ••   ;.7.i-.;;/3)..C 


''h9' 


m 

'::''*> 


-„•      .      :  I 


f'-'      I 


•*--A/    •. 


122 


THE  BREAKFAST  BOOM. 


cy,  and  by  his  watchful  providence,  had  brought  me  in  safe. 
ty  and  with  restored  health  to  this  place.  Soon  I  was  in. 
vited  into  another  apartment  to  breakfast ;  and  compara. 
tively  speaking,  it  was  a  new  thing  to  sit  in  a  chair y  and  at 
a  table  spread  with  furniture — and  upon  which  was  placed 
ducks,  bread  and  butter,  sugar  and  milk.  Bread,  butter,  and 
milk,  were  great  luxuries. 


vV    '-. 


n.     ■ '  ■ 


FORT  WALLA  WALLA. 


123 


*  r  ■ 


*      V  •        f 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Description  of  Walla  Walla— the  kind  treatment  cf  the  Indians  by  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company— leave  Walla  Walla  for  fort  Vancouver — lo' 
quacious  orator— rapids— introduction  to  the  Cayuse  Indians— morn- 
ing prospect— long  rapids— Volcanic  mountains — trial  of  Indian  gen- 
erosity— arrival  at  the  falls  of  the  Columbia  river — the  rousing  effects 
of  oratory— La  Dalles — Boston  trading  company — remarkable  subsi- 
dence— Cascades — Chenooks  are  the  Flatheads  and  Nez  Perces — dan- 
gerous rapids— Indian  burying  places— Pillar  rock — interesting  water 
fall— sea  fowl- -arrive  at  fort  Vancouver. 

Fort  Walla  Walla  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Columbia  river,  ten  miles  below  the  confluence  of  the  Co- 
lumbia and  Lewis'  river,  which  last  is  commonly  called,  by 
the  people  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  Nez 
Perce  river ;  and  one  mile  above  the  Walla  Walla  river,  in 
latitude  46*^  2',  longitude  119°  30'.  Two  miles  below  the 
fort  there  is  a  range  of  mountains  running  north  and  south, 
which,  though  not  high,  yet  are  of  considerable  magnitude  ; 
and  where  the  Columbia  passes  through,  it  is  walled  up  on 
both  sides  with  basalt,  in  many  places  three  hundred  feet 
perpendicular  height,  which  renders  the  scenery  pictur- 
esque. The  soil,  for  considerable  distance  around,  with  the 
exception  of  some  strips  of  bottom-land,  is  sandy,  and  for 
the  want  of  summer  rains  is  not  productive.  This  estab- 
lishment is  not  only  supplied  with  the  necessaries  of  life,  but 
also  with  many  of  the  conveniences.  They  have  cows, 
horses,  hogs,  fowls,  &;c.  and  cultivate  corn,  potatoes,  and  a 
variety  of  garden  vegetables  ;  and  might  enlarge  these  and 
otlicr  productions  to  a  great  extent.  They  also  keep  on 
hand  dry  goods  and  hardware,  not  only  for  their  own  con. 


:  J-^■■:ti•^?l^^•• 
.-       •-■■'•*?•'■■.   .!•  ft' 


'  ■  •*,-'■■-■  ''A  r  ' 


-'X'v. 


■'■    *  f  ,  *    •' 


■'  '.    -    ,» 

.     . 

■'  ■  ■ "''? 

f .  j  .'. 

t  I 

« ■ 

1     ' 


'p.f..';:.^: 


>Hii; 


l|r- 


y.i' 


124 


HUDSON  BAY  COMPANY. 


venience,  but  also  for  Indian  trade.  Most  of  the  year  thev 
have  a  good  supply  of  fish  ;  of  which  there  are  abundance 
of  salmon  of  the  first  quality.  There  is  a  great  deficiency 
in  religious  privileges. 

I  arrived  here  in  six  months  and  twenty-three  days  from 
leaving  home — forty-five  from  Rendezvous — and  twenty 
days  from  entering  Salmon  river  mountains. 

Wednesday,  7th.  Continued  in  this  place*  Settled  with 
my  interpreter,  gave  presents  to  my  Indians,  and  made  ar. 
rangements  for  leaving  this  place  to-morrow,  in  a  canoe 
propelled  by  Indians  belonging  to  the  Walla  Walla  tribe, 
for  Fort  Vancouver,  which  is  two  hundred  miles  down  the 
Columbia. 

Thus  I  am  putting  myself,  without  fear,  into  the  hands  of 
Indians,  where' a  few  years  ago  an  escort  of  fifty  men  was 
necessary  for  safety,  and  shall  have  to  pass  places  which 
have  been  battle-grounds  between  traders  and  Indians. 

The  gentlemen  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
are  worthy  of  commendation  for  their  good  treatment  of 
the  Indians,  by  which  they  have  obtained  their  friendship 
and  confidence,  and  also  for  the  efforts,  which  some  few  of 
them  have  made  to  instruct  those  about  them  »n  the  first 
principles  of  our  holy  religion ;  especially  in  regard  to 
equity,  humanity,  and  morality.  This  company  is  of  long 
standing,  have  become  rich  in  the  fur  trade,  and  they  intepd 
to  perpetuate  the  business ;  therefore  they  consult  the  pros, 
perity  of  the  Indians  as  intimately  connected  with  their 
own.  I  have  not  heard  as  yet  of  a  single  instance  of  any 
Indians  being  wantonly  killed  by  any  of  the  men  belonging 
to  this  company.  Nor  have  I  heard  any  boasting  among 
them  of  the  satisfaction  taken  in  killing  or  abusing  Indians, 
as  I  have  elsewhere  heard. 

Thursday,  8th.  My  three  Walla  Walla  Indians  having 
got  all  things  in  readiness,  mats,  provisions,  &c.  f'Tnished 
by  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Pambrun,  and  he   having  givea 


A  VOYAGE  COMMENCED. 


125 


them  their  instructions,  I  went  on  board  the  canoe  at  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  having  passed  the  usual  saluta- 
tions, we  shoved  off,  and  gently  glided  down  the  river,  which 
here  is  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  I  felt  myself  in  a  new 
situation — my  horses  dismissed — I  was  in  a  frail  canoe  upon 
the  wide  waters  of  the  Columbia,  subject  to  winds,  and  with 
rapids  and  falls  on  the  way,  and  among  stranger  Indians, 
two  hundred  miles  by  water  before  I  could  expect  to  find 
any  white  men  ;  to  pass  through  several  nations  whose  Ian. 
guages  are  entirely  different ;  yet  the  change  from  horse- 
back,  for  months  over  mountains  and  plains,  through  defiles 
and  ravines,  was  anticipated  with  satisfaction. 

My  three  Indians  were  well  acquainted  with  the  river  and 
with  the  art  of  managing  the  canoe.  One  of  them  under- 
stood the  Nez  Perce  language  tolerably  well,  was  very  lo- 
quacious and  vain,  and  wished  to  be  thought  a  man  of  impor> 
tance.  He  told  me  he  was  to  do  the  talking,  and  the  other 
two  were  to  do  as  he  should  direct.  On  account  of  his  im- 
portant and  loquacious  habits,  I  called  him  my  orator.  One 
of  the  other  two,  who  took  the  stern  and  steered  the  canoe, 
was  a  stout,  brawny,  savage-looking  man,  excepting  the  ex- 
pression  of  his  countenance,  which  was  indicative  of  inteU 
ligence  and  good  nature.  The  third,  who  took  the  bow, 
was  an  able  well  disposed  young  man.  The  channel 
through  the  volcanic  mountain  a  little  below  the  fort,  is  one 
I  of  the  wonders  of  nature ;  how  it  was  formed  through 
those  immensely  hard  basaltic  rocks  to  the  depth  of  about 
three  hundred  feet,  and  for  the  distance  of  two  or  three 
miles,  remains  unexplained.  But  my  attention  was  so  much 
taken  up  with  the  boiling  eddies  and  the  varying  currents, 
that  I  did  not  take  those  observations  which  under  different 
circumstances  might  have  been  made,  and  which  the  scen- 
ery and  phenomena  demanded.  In  one  place,  as  we  passed 
out  the  mountain  channel,  the  river  ran  so  rapidly  over  a 

rocky  bed,  and  the  water  was  so  broken,  that  I  felt  unsafe  ta 
11* 


''^v:f. 


•h 


^:-^M- 


•■-„• 
■  »" 


''•»> 


I 


■''■h 


k  .■-■' ' 


126 


CATUSE  INDIANS. 


■ )'  ■  • 


continue  in  the  canoe,  and  requested  my  Indians  to  put  me 
ashore.  My  talking  Indian  said,  "toi*,"  (good.)  I  told 
him,  waiitu  tois,  kapseisy  not  good,  but  bad.  But  still  he 
said,  tois,  tois,  and  I  concluded,  that  they  would  not  decline 
putting  me  on  shore,  if  there  were  any  particular  danger, 
The  man  at  the  stern  put  off  into  the  middle  of  the  river, 
where  the  water  was  the  smoothest,  but  where  the  current 
was  equally  strong,  and  with  his  keen  eye  fixed  upon  the 
varying  eddies,  applied  his  brawny  arms  to  the  work  ;  and 
whenever  a  change  of  his  paddle  from  one  side  of  the  canoe 
was  necessary,  it  was  done  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye. 
Any  failure  of  right  management  would  have  been  disast. 
rous  ;  but  they  kept  the  canoe  in  the  right  direction,  and  we 
shot  down  with  such  velocity,  as,  together  with  the  breaking 
in  of  some  water,  to  create  solicitude.  But  this  served  to 
make  the  smooth  parts  more  pleasant  and  my  mind  more 
tranquil  in  regard  to  future  dangers.      •    i  ;•  ,    ; 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  called  at  an  encamp. 
ment  of  Cayuse  Indians  of  about  a  dozen  lodges.  My  or. 
ator,  when  we  had  come  within  hearing,  announced  our  ap. 
proach  and  informed  them  who  I  was,  and  the  object  of  my 
tour,  and  that  they  must  prepare  to  receive  me  with  all  due 
respect — that  I  was  not  a  trader  and  that  I  had  not  come 
with  goods,  but  to  teach  them  how  to  worship  God.  They 
arranged  themselves  in  single  file,  the  chiefs  and  principal 
men  forward,  then  the  more  common  men,  next  the  women 
according  to  their  rank,  the  wives  of  chiefs,  the  old  women, 
the  young — and  then  the  children  according  to  age.  All 
things  being  made  ready,  the  salute  was  fired,  and  I  landed 
and  shook  hands  with  all,  even  the  youngest  children,  many 
of  whom,  when  they  presented  the  hand,  would  turn  away 
their  faces  through  fear.  I  made  them  some  presents,  and 
bought  of  them  some  dried  salmon  and  cranberries.  These 
were  the  first  cranberries  I  had  seen  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  they  were  a  grateful  acid.    They  expressed 


my 


MOBIfllfO  FBOSPECT^ 


127 


much  satisfaction  in  seeing  me,  and  in  the  object  of  my 
coming  among  them.  I  told  them  I  could  not  explain  to 
them  what  I  wished,  but  they  must  meet  me  next  spring  at 
Walla  Walla,  where  I  should  have  an  interpreter,  and  then 
I  would  tell  them  about  God.  After  again  shaking  hands 
with  them,  we  went  on  our  way. 

At  five  o'clock  we  landed  upon  the  north  shore,  and  en- 
camped near  a  large  number  of  Nez  Perce  Indians,  who 
came  about  me  with  the  same  tokens  of  friendship  and 
kindness,  which  characterizes  their  nation.  Among  their 
acts  of  kindness  they  brought  me  wood,  which  in  this  sec- 
tion of  the  country  is  scarce  ;  and  gathered  small  bushes 
and  grass  to  make  my  bed  upon.  In  return  I  made  them 
some  presents.  ^ 

October  9th.  Arose  before  day,  and  as  soon  as  any  light 
appeared,  resumed  our  voyage  down  the  river.  The  morn- 
ing was  pleasant,  the  country  around  open  and  diversified 
with  rolling  prairies  and  distant  mountain  tops,,  mellowed 
with  the  opening  beams  of  the  rising  sun.  It  was  a  time 
for  pleasing  contemplations,  such  as  banished  all  feelings  of 
solitude,  although  no  sound  broke  upon  the  ear,  but  the  reg- 
ularly timed  strokes  of  the  paddles  of  my  Indians,  who  were 
urging  forward  my  canoe  with  an  accelerated  velocity,. 
greater  than  the  current  of  the  river  would  have  carried 
The   operations  of  nature  were  spread  out  in  si- 


us. 


Ilence.  About  the  middle  of  the  day,  the  silence  was  in- 
terrupted by  the  roar  of  a  distant  rapid  ;  the  sound  of  which 
continued  to  increase,  until  the  white  breaking  water  was 
presented  to  view.  For  several  miles  the  bed  of  the  river 
was  filled  with  rocks,  and  several  rocky  islands  and  shoals, 
among  which  the  whirling  and  foaming  water  was  forcing 
its  way.  The  only  part  of  the  river,  which  presented  any 
appearance  of  safety,  was  along  the  south  shore.  This  had 
somewhat  the  appearance  of  a  wake.     My  Indians  made 

I  no  movement  for  landing,  but  kept  near  the  middle  of  the 


.♦:■ 


■  '  "  t  I  -      *,'      * ■    • 


■'■■  •^^> ' 


•^(' 


n 


t' 


128 


GOOD  PASTUBAOE. 


|l':r 


liii-i; 


ih ' ; 


river.  On  my  expressing  some  apprehensions  of  danger 
they  pointed  toward  the  wake  and  said,  "  tois,"  I  pointed 
forward  and  toward  the  north  shore,  and  said,  kapseis,  bad.  | 
They  answered,  ai,  kapseis ;  and  with  the  language  of  sigi 
accompanying  their  words,  told  me  they  would  keep  the  I 
canoe  in  the  good  water,  and  it  would  not  fill,  nor  be  drawn 
into  the  breakers.  My  confidence  in  their  skill  of  man. 
agement  being  well  established,  I  made  no  objection  to  their 
going  forward,  and  in  a  very  short  time  we  had  passed  the 
apparent  danger,  and  were  gliding  along  over  the  smoolli 
surface  on  the  south  side  of  a  large  island,  about  six  miles  | 

During  the  day,  the  country  around  was  comparatively  I 
level,  covered  with  a  black  soil,  which  appears  to  have  been 
formed  by  atmospheric  agents  decomposing  the  volcanic 
substances,  which  so  generally  abound.  This  section  of 
the  country  is  well  supplied  with  grass,  which  'luring  the 
summer  drouth  is  converted  into  hay.  Who  can  calculate 
the  multitudes  of  cattle  and  sheep,  which  might  be  kept 
here  summer  and  winter,  with  no  other  labor  than  the  care 
of  a  few  herdsmen  and  shepherds.  Encamped  upon  the 
north  side  of  the  river  among  some  sand  hills,  a  little  below 
several  lodges  of  Walla  Walla  Indianr^,  to  whom  I  had  the| 
usual  and  formal  introduction. 

I  was  pleased  to  find  Indians  belonging  todifierenttribesl 
scattered  all  along  this  river,  living  in  harmony  without  any 
fueds  or  jealousies.     It  speaks  macii  in  favor  of  their  kind  | 
and  peaceable  dispositions.  ., 

On  the  10th,  arose  before  day,  after  a  night's  comfortable! 
rest,  and  by  the  first  breaking  light  we  had  our  baggage  on 
board  and  were  under  way.  Towards  the  middle  of  the  day 
we  came  to  a  more  mountainous  tract  of  country,  and  at  a  | 
place  where  the  mountains  crossed  the  river,  there  were  very 
rocky  rapids,  but  by  winding  our  way  among  islands  near 
the  north  shore,  we  made  a  safe  descent.     About  noon,  a 


TBIAX  OF  INDIAN  GENEROSITY. 


12* 


head  wind,  which  commenced  in  the  fore  part  of  the  dav , 
I  had  become  so  fresh  and  the  waves  began  to  multiply  their 
I  ^hite  caps,  so  that  it  was  dangerous  navigation  for  our  ca- 
noe, and  we  had  to  land  and  wait  for  a  more  favorable  time. 
I  We  encamped  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  under  a  very 
high  and  romantic  basaltic  mountain ;  in  some  parts-  near 
us  the  rocky  walls  were  more  than  two  hundred  feet  in  per- 
pendicular height — in  one  place  hanging  over.      In  some 
places,  and  at  different  altitudes  of  this  immense  wall  there 
were  cavities  of  considerable  magnitude,  and  in  others  wide^ 
and  deep  fissures ;  through  one  of  which  passes  the  road 
[traveled  by  pedestrians  and  those  on  horse-back.      This 
Iplace  is  ten  miles  above  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia,  which 
[the  Indians  call  the  tum  tum  ;  the  same  expression  they  use 
[for  the  beating  of  the  heart.     ' 

About  a  mile  above  us  were  encamped  some  Walla  Wallas, 
[many  of  whom  came  to  my  tent  and  wished  to  enter  into* 
rade  with  me,  offering  me  beaver  at  a  low  price.  I  told 
them  to  trade  was  not  my  business^  any  farther  than  to  buy 
Balmon,  &c.  for  food.  My  orator  told  me  one  of  them  was 
Mediot,  a  chief,  and  would  expect  a  present.  As  a  trial 
)f  thoir  disposition,  I  told  him,  they  had  not  brought  me 
iny  wood  for  a  fire,  and  I  would  not  give  them  any  thing 
mtil  they  showed  their  kindness.  But  he  said  I  must  make 
khe  chief  a  present  and  buy  of  them  wood.  I  replied, 
caiitu,  if  he  is  a  chief  let  him  show  the  generosity  of  a 
shief.  Very  soon  they  brought  wood,  and  a  fire  was  made, 
rhich  I  followed  with  some  presents. 
Sabbath,  11th.  Continued  in  the  same  encampment,  and 
^d  my  heart's  desire  much  excited  for  the  salvation  of 
these  poor  heathen.  There  were  a  sufficient  number  here 
to  have  made  a  decent  congregation  had  I  any  medium  of 
communication.  Their  language  differs  from  the  Nez; 
Perces',  so  that  I  could  have  no  communication  with  them 
jnly  by  my  orator,  who  asked  me  if  he  should  teach  these 


4 


te^ 


■  1    .        T-I'i.     1  .  \       .<    ■ 

■  "■  ''.h^',  '.-'Vw.^.". 


"■  ■■'>.     ..   4 


■■ ,  ^'j  ;• 


'''M-:'^&: ; 


■J  ;■' 

:  ^<  • 


^'i*^-^ '%"*■■  ■ 


ISO 


FALLS  OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 


;ii'r;?i'4  ■■■'■' 


Indians  what  he  had  learned  about  God  and  his  worship.  \\ 
gave  him  permission,  though  I  had  fears  he  was  influenced 
more  by  love  of  distinction  than  any  higher  motive;  bm 
still,  if  any  true  light  should  be  imparted  to  them,  I  would | 
rejoice  in  it. 

I  arose  the  latter  part  of  the  night  of  the  12th,  and  the  I 
weather  being  calm,  and  the  moon  shining  pleasantly,  h J 
took  our  departure  for  the  Falls,  where  we  arrived  some 
time  before  day.     Above  the  Falls  there  is  a  large  island, 
on  the  south  side  of  which  there  is  a  commodious  bay, 
near  which  and  upon  the  river  De  Shutes,  which  here  unitej 
with  the  Columbia,  there  is  a  village  of  the  Fall  Indians  ofl 
about  thirty  lodges.     Here  we  landed,  and  my  talker  raised 
his  oratorical  voice  to  such  a  note  as  aroused  the  whole  vil 
lage,  calling  upon  the  chiefs  to  arise,  and  with  their  people! 
receive  the  personage  with  him  in  due  form.     It  was  butil 
short  time  before  their  line  was  formed,  the  first  chief  lead! 
ing  the  way,  and  others  according  to  their  rank  and  m 
following,  and  the  ceremony  of  shaking  hands  was  perforii| 
ed  ;  and  all  retired  to  their  lodges  again. 

There  is  a  great  want  of  neatness  among  Indians  in  j 
eral,  but  more  especially  among  those  on  this  river,  wlio| 
live  by  fishing. 

Here  we  left  our  canoe,  and  took  horses  and  proceeded| 
by  land,  upon  the  south  side  of  the  river,  by  the  Falls,  an 
down  the  La  Dalles,  six  miles.  From  the  lower  end  of  thtl 
island  where  the  rapids  begin,  to  the  perpendicular  fall,  iil 
about  two  miles ;  and  here  the  river  contracts,  when  the  wa-l 
ter  is  low,  to  a  very  narrow  space,  and  with  only  a  shoitl 
distance  of  swift  water,  it  makes  its  plunge  twenty  feet  perl 
pendicular  ;  and  then  after  a  short  distance  of  rapids,  dashJ 
ing  against  the  rocks,  it  moves  on  in  a  narrow  passage,! 
filled  with  rapids  and  eddies,  among  volcanic  rocks,  calledl 
the  La  Dalles,  four  miles ;  and  then  spreads  out  into  a  gen- 
tle broad  channel.     At  the  Falls  and  the  La  Dalles  below, 


1^-  :"■ 


BOSTON  TRADING  COMPANY. 


131 


Ithere  are  several  carrying  places,  where  boats  and  canoes, 
las  well  as  baggage,  have  to  be  transported.     The  geological 
Iformation  along  this  distance  is  singular.     With  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  high  hills  and  bluffs,  the  shore   and  lands 
iround  are  but  little  above  the  river  in  the  freshet  rise  ;  and 
Let  the  channel  of  the  river  is  through  the  hardest  basalt 
ind  amygdaloid.      Has  this  channel  worn  this  solid  rock 
Iformation  1     If  so,  at  what  time  ?     There  is  no  appearance 
)f  the  channel  havin  ,  worn  perceptibly  deeper,  since  these 
3cks,  from  their  melted  state,  spread  out  into  their  present 
ponditioD,  which  must  have  taken  place  centuries  and  cen- 
luries  ago.      As  I  have  no  confidence  in  theories  founded 
ipon  conjecture,  nor  in  Indian  traditions,  I  leave  the  sub- 
let for  others  to  tell  us  how  these  things  took  place.     But 
^ne  thing  is  true,  the  Falls  and  La  Dalles  furnish  a  situation 
)r  water  power  equal  to  any  in  any  part  of  the  world. 
lere  also  is  one  of  the  best  locations  for  salmon  fishing, 
^nd  where  great  numbers  of  Indians  collect  in  the  season  of 
iking  them,  which  commences  the  last  of  April,  or  the  first 
[f  May,  and  continues  a  few  months.     At  the  lower  part  of 
le  La  Dalles,  I  found  Capt.  Wyeth  from  Boston,  with  a 
(lall  company  of  men  going  up  the  river  to  Fort  Hall. 
'apt.  Wyeth,  who  is  an  intelligent  and  sociable  man,  had 
le  charge  of  the  business  of  a  company  formed  in  Boston, 
31-  salmon  fishing  on  the  Columbia,  and  for  trade  and  trap- 
ling  in  the  region  of  the  mountains.      The  plan  of  the 
arapany  was  to  send  d  ship  annually  around  Cape  Horn 
ito  Columbia  river,  to  bring  out  goods  for  trade,  and  to  take 
korae  the  salmon  and  furs  which  should  be  obtained  through 

I 

Die  year.  It  was  expected  the  profits  on  the  salmon  would 
|efray  all  common  expenses,  and  that  the  profits  on  the  furs 
rould  be  clear,  and  yield  a  handsome  income.  But  thus 
ir  the  enterprise  has  been  attended  with  many  disasters, 
|nd  the  loss  of  many  lives — several  of  the  men  were  drown- 
1,  and  fiome  killed  by  Indians. 


r 


.  .T. . 


T-'  -..-.  -;  ■■;;,•><, 
•»,..     i«i'    ■,  <. I, ... 

•  •    "r.  ■"•■'/  :■ 

:•■    ^.^yf*--,''-  •if" 

M.-:;  ■.,";!,,•? •v?!-ti},.'i 
'».  it  r'Jv?'  *•;*'*.''•  . 

,  .  f*-v  -if;.,-. 


1..  >■ 


.    ■■■•"  -i  *'.,V ♦■■'''■*'   '  '■ 


'ii 


.'■'•f  >*}..■  A,Th'.  ■ 


;,    ■•,v,  !-^<i> 


,!>■ 


■^.: 


■  ;     ■■y  1 
•3  -V- 


■<^\ 


,'••■♦.  -  ,'V  „ 

\  .;  •     ■    i  ■•    ■.     "■ 


:.-*■■: .  •  • 


ic  1  '. 


132 


BEMARKABLE  PHENOMENA, 


Here  I  dismissed  my  Walla  Walla  Indians  to  return,  ani 
TilkT,  the  first  chief  of  the  La  Dalles  Indians,  engaged  to 
furnish  me  with  a  canoe  and  men  to  carry  me  to  Fort  Van. 
couver.  Encamped  with  Capt.  Wyeth,  and  obtained  from 
him  a  short  vocabulary  of  the  Chenook  language,  to  enable 
me  to  do  common  business  with  the  Indians  residing  alone 
on  the  lower  part  of  this  river. 

Tuesday,  13th.  I  left  this  encampment  at  nine  o'clock 
in  the  forenoon,  in  the  canoe  with  three  men  furnished  hv 
TilkT,  and  made  good  progress  down  the  river,  which  flows 
in  a  wide  and  gentle  current.  Many  parts  of  the  way,  the 
river  is  walled  up  with  high  and  perpendiculai  basalt.  At 
the  La  Dalles  commences  a  wood  country,  which  becomes 
more  and  more  dense  as  we  descend,  and  more  broken  witn 
high  hills  and  precipices.  Noticed  a  remarkable  phenome. 
non — trees  standing  in  their  natural  position  in  the  river,  in 
many  places  where  the  water  is  twenty  feet  deep,  or  mucli 
more,  and  rising  to  high,  or  freshet  water  mark,  which  is 
fifteen  feet  above  the  low  water.  Above  the  freshet  rise  tiie 
tops  of  the  trees  are  decayed  and  gone.  I  deferred  forming' 
an  opinion  in  regard  to  the  cause,  until  I  should  collect  more 
data.  About  the  middle  of  the  day  a  south  wind  began  to 
blow,  and  continued  to  increase  until  it  became  necessary  to 
go  on  shore  and  encamp,  which  we  did  about  four  in  the  at. 
ternoon. 

On  the  14th,  we  did  not  make  much  progress  on  account  of 
wind  and  rain.  Encamped  in  a  cavern  under  a  large  pro. 
jecting  rock,  the  upper  part  of  which  was  formed  of  basak, 
the  lower  of  pudding  stone.  Although  this  encampment 
was  at  least  six  miles  above  the  Cascades,  yet  the  roar  oi 
the  water  could  be  distinctly  heard.  The  same  phenome- 
non of  trees  continued.  I  paid  particular  attention  to  the 
condition  of  the  shores  of  the  river  and  adjacent  hills,  to 
see  if  any  evidence  could  be  discovered  of  their  having 
sliddc:  down  from  the  hills  by  escarpment ;  but  as  their  coo- 


REMARKABLE  SUBSIDENCE. 


133 


Idition  was  the  same  where  there  were  no  hills  near,  I  was 

led  to  conjecture,  that  I  should  find  at  the  Cascades  the  river 

darned  up  with  volcanic  productions ;  and  I  was  induced  to 

believe  it  would  be  found  to  be  so,  from  the  fact,  that  the  riv- 

ler  the  whole  distance  from  the  La  Dalles,  is  wide  and  deep, 

land  moves  with  a  sluggish  current. 

On  the  15th,  the  wind  and  rain  continuing  through  the 
{fore  part  of  the  day,  I  did  not  leave  my  encampment  until 
noon,  when  we  set  forward  and  arrived  at  the  Cascades  at 
two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.     The  trees,  to-day,  were  still 
Iniore  numerous,  in  many  places  standing  in  deep  water,  and 
hvc  had  to  pick  our  way  with  our  canoe  in  some  parts,  as 
{through  a  forest.     The  water  of  this  river  is  so  clear,  that 
|l  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  their  position  down  to 
jtheir  spreading  roots,  and  found  them  in  the  same  condition 
IS  when  standing  in  their  natural  forest.     As  I  approached 
the  Cascades,  instead  of  finding  an  embankment  formed 
from  volcanic  eruptions,  the  shores  above  the  falls  were  low, 
md  the  velocity  of  the  water  began  to  accelerate  two-thirds 
3f  a  mile  above  the  main  rapid.     On  a  full  examination,  it 
bs  plainly  evident  that  here  has  been  an  uncommon  subsi- 
dence of  a  tract  of  land,  more  than  twenty  miles  in  length, 
md  more  than  a  mile  in  width.     The  trees  standing  in  the 
rater  are  found  mostly  towards  and  near  the  north  shore, 
md  yet,  from  the  depth  of  the  river  and  its  sluggish  move- 
nt, I  should  conclude  the  subsidence  affected  the  whole 
That  the  trees  are  not  wholly  decayed  down  to  low 
mtet  mark,  proves  that  the  subsidence  is,  comparatively,  of 
scent  date ;  and  their  undisturbed,  natural  position  proves 
[that  it  took  place  in  a  tranquil  manner,  not  by  any  tremen- 
Idous  convulsion  of  nature.     The  cause  lies  concealed,  but 
[the  fact  is  plain.     That  parts  of  forest  may  in  this  way 
submerge,  is  evident  from  similar  facts.     The  noted  one  on 
Ithe  eastern  coast  of  Yorkshire  and  Lincolnshire,  England, 

lis  about  fifteen  feet  below  low  water  mark,  extending  east. 
Id 


i>l'vt:-v  •i^.'- 


-   .J" 


■  '**;.    ■ 


Amr-- 


I. 


>  .    '...,"■  ft'x,  ■ 


fi  ••  " ) .'  '^ •     ""<•" 


wf'-'^-- 


P?^'-*.'^,      •. 


134 


Tm  CASCADES. 


waiJ  a  considerable  distance  from  the  shore,  of  whicb 
stumps  and  roots  are  seen  in  their  natural  position.  So 
manifest  is  the  evidence  of  great  changes  having  taken 
place  by  volcanic  power,  in  these  regions  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  both  by  upheaving  and  subsidence,  that  we  at« 
led  to  enquire  whether  there  are  not  now  such  agents  in  op. 
eration,  and  upon  such  materials,  that  the  valleys  shall  be 
literally  exalted,  and  the  mountains  be  made  low,  and  wa.  | 
ters  spring  up  in  the  deserts. 

The  Cascades,  so  called  to  distinguish  them  from  the  I 
Falls,  do  not  differ  very  materially  from  1  hem,  except  in  the 
wild,  romantic  scenery  around.     There  is  no  perpendicular 
fall,  but  the  water  concentrates,  from  its  wide  spread  fonn, 
w  a  very  narrow  compass,  and  then  rushes  with  great  im. 
petuosity  down  an  almost  perpendicular  precipice  twenty  or 
thirty  feet,  and  continues  in  a  foaming  and  whirling  descent 
most  of  the  way  five  miles  farther,  where  it  meets  the  tide 
waters  from  the  Pacific  ocean.     Above  the  falls,  in  the  river, 
there  are  many  islands,  none  of  which  are  very  large- 
flome  are  only  volcanic  rocks.     About  the  Cascades,  ai 
many  miles  below,  it  is  very  mountainous,  especially  on  the  I 
south  side.     Their  volcanic  peaks  are  as  diversified  in  their  | 
shapes,  as  they  are  numerous,  being  conical,  denticulated,  a 
needIe>pointed,  rising  from  one  t  >  fifteen  hundred  feet.  While  | 
imagination  generally  over-draws  her  pictures,  there  wil 
be  no  danger  here,  even  if  she  should  exert  all  her  powers,! 

A  little  above  the  Cascades,  upon  the  north  shore,  there 
is  a  small  village  of  Chenooks.  These  Indians  are  the  only 
i«al  Flatheads  and  Nez  Perces,  or  pierced  noses,  I  have 
found.  They  flatten  their  heads  and  pierce  their  noses. 
The  flattening  of  their  heads  is  not  so  great  a  deformity  as 
is  generally  supposed.  From  a  little  above  the  eyes  to  the 
apex,  or  crown,  of  the  head,  there  is  u.  depression,  but  not 
generally  in  adult  persons  very  noticeable.  The  pierciDg 
of  the  nos6  is  more  of  a  deformity,  and  is  done  by  inserting 


THE  FOBTAGE. 


135 


two  small  tapering  white  shells,  ahout  two  inches  long,  some- 
what in  the  shape  of  a  thorn,  through  the  lower  part  of  the 
I  cartilaginous  division  of  the  nose.      I  called  at  this  village 
to  obtain   men  to   carry  our  canoe  by   the  portage  of 
I  the  Cascades.     They  wished  to  engage  in  trade  with  me  in 
i  several  articles  of  small  value,  which  I  declined,  informing 
them  that  my  business  was  of  a  different  nature.     Whilst 
Metained,  the  daughter  of  the  chief,  fancifully  decked  out  in 
ornaments,  and  in  all  her  pride  and  native  haughtiness, 
[walked  to  and  fro  to  exhibit,  to  the  best  advantage,  her  fine, 
Icrect,  end  stately  person. 

After  considerable  delay,  I  obtained  four  Indians  to  carry 
I  the  canoe  about  one  hundred  rods  by  the  principal  rapids, 
[or  fallS)  for  which  I  gave  each  five  charges  of  powder  and 
balls ;  and  an  additional  reward  to  one  to  carry  a  part  of 
Imy  baggage  a  mile  and  a  half  past  the  most  dangerous  rap- 
lids,  to  a  bason  just  below  another  rapid,  formed  by  large 
{rocks  confining  the  river  to  a  very  narrow  passage,  and 
Ithrough  which  it  rushes  with  great  impetuosity.  My 
llndians  ran  the  canoe  over  this  rapid.  I  was  much  con- 
Icemed  for  their  safety  ;  but  they  chose  to  do  it.  Two 
years  before  this  time,  the  men  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
Ipany  cordelled  several  bateau  down  this  rapid — part  of  the 
Imen  going  in  the  boats,  and  part  on  the  shore  cordellingn 
JThe  rope  of  one  broke,  and  the  bateau,  in  spite  of  the  ef* 
■forts  of  the  men  in  it,  was  hurried  out  into  the  surging  and 
whirling  waves  among  the  rocks — capsized,  and  all  were 
Ilrst. 

I  walked  about  four  miles,  until  I  had  passed  all  the  rap^ 
ids  of  any  special  danger.  About  three-fourths  of  a  mile 
I  below  the  uppermost  cascade,  following  an  Indian  path,  1 
I  came  to  a  pleasant  rise  of  ground,  upon  which  were  several 
houses  of  a  forsaken  village,  which  were  both  larger  and  far 
better  than  any  I  had  seen  in  any  Indian  country.  They 
were  about  sixty  feet  long,  and  thirty  five  wide,  the  frame 


i   ,  i 


r:-\. 


■'  ■r> 


1.-    •n?'■■^^.:-- 


1^6 


INDIAN  BURYING  PLACES. 


U.*-V/. 

~  -ft 

I't^'v^' 

'•;*:i«;  ■ 

-  -    .       ' 

Ws.   ;■• 

-•'        ■ . 

-•J^'v 

Ui 

;  .-  .1,/ . 

*  -" 

» 

it    '*  • 

t-.-r- 

'  ■    1 

4:t* 

- ,- .    "  • 

..    .. 

■    •;'   .  . 

■  "i  'ii\ 

" "  t . '              "  * 

^^^ 

•'  "'.    "     . 

'^i^- 

r    L_        ■      » ' 

I 


-Hi; 


work  very  well  constructed  and  covered  with  split  plankj 
and  cedar  bark.     A  little  back  of  these  houses,  there  is  a 


small  lake,  in  which  were  a  number  of  wild  ducks 


enjoying 


the  comforts  of  life.      As   I  continued  down  the  Indian  I 
path,  at  no  great  distance  from  the  village,  I  came  to  ser. 
eral  depositories  of  their  dead.     They  were  built  of  plank  I 
split  from  balsam  fir  and  cedar,  about  eight  feet  long,  six  I 
wide,  and  five  high,  and  well  covered.     At  one  end  is  what 
may  be  called  a  door,  upon  which  are  paintings  of  various 
devices,  which  do  not  appear  to  be  designed  for  any  other 
purpose  than  for  ornament.      Some  had  painting  upon  the  | 
sides  as  well  as  upon  the  doors.     I  had  with  me  two  Indi. 
ans  who  paid  no  particular  attention  to  them,  more  than  n  I 
should  in  passing  a  burying  ground.     They  pointed  me  to 
them,  and  made  a  short,  solemn  pause,  without  any  actions 
which  would  indicate  their  paying  any  homage  to  the  pic 
tures  or  any  other  object.     The  number  of  these  deposito.  | 
lies  I  did  not  ascertain,  as  many  of  them  were  so  far  de- 
cayed,  as  hardly  to  be  distinguishable ;    but  of  those  in  I 
good  condition  there  were  eight  or  ten.     Below  this  we 
passed  several  houses  of  far  less  magnitude  than  those  above: 
and  while  the  floors  of  those  were  on  a  level  with  the  siir.  I 
face  of  the  ground,  these  were  sunk  about  four  feet  below, 
and  the  walls  rising  only  about  three  feet  above  the  ground.  I 
It  would  seem  these  were  designed  for  winter  habitations, 
but  at  this  time  their  occupants  were  all  absent.      At  the  I 
distance  of  four  miles  below  the  main  cataract,  the  coun- 
try,  on  the  north  side,  spreads  out  into  a  level  plain,  which  I 
near  the  river  is  a  prairie,  a  little  distance  back  covered 
with  dense  forests  ;    while  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  it 
is  very  mountainous. 

Toward  the  lower  part  of  Brant  island  I  re-embarked,  and 
we  proceeded  a  few  miles  farther  and  encamped  below  Pil- 
lar rock,  over  against  an  extraordinary  cascade  of  water 
which  descends  the  mountains  from  the  south.    Pillar  rock 


\h   ' 


^J 


BEAUTIFUL  WATEItPALL. 


13T 


Lg  0^  basaltic  formation,  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  a  few  rods  from  the  shore,  on  a  narrow  strip  of  rich 

I  bottom-land,  wholly  isolated,  rising  five  hundred  feet,  on 

I  the  river  side  perpendicular,  and  on  the  others  nearly  so. 

I  Upon  all,  except  the  river  side ,  there  are  some  very  narrow 

loflfsets  upon  which  grow  some  cedars,  and  also  a  very  few 
upon  the  highest  point.  The  base  in  comparison  with  the 
height,  is  very  small,  giving  the  whole  the  appearance  of 
an  enormous  pillar.     This  is  one  of  the  astonishing  wonders 

I  of  volcanic  operations. 

The  cascade  upon  the  south  side  of  the  river  is  a  pleas- 

[  ing  wonder.    According  to  the  best  estimation  I  could  make, 

j  its  whole  descent  is  not  less  than  a  thousand  feet.  There 
are  several  narrow  offsets,  from  most  of  which  the  water 

I  descends  in  a  white,  foaming  sheet,  at  an  angle  of  sixty  or 

[eighty  degrees,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  white  stripe 
laid  upon  the  side  of  the  mountains.  In  two  parts  of  the 
descent  there  are  perpendicular  falls  ;  the  last  and  lowest  is 
probably   not  less  than  two  hundred  feet,  and  before  the 

I  stream  reaches  the  bottom,  it  is  so  dissipated  into  spray  by 
I  the  accelerating  power  of  the  attraction  of  gravitation,  that 

I  it  disappears,  until  again  collected  at  the  foot  of  the  moun. 

I  tain,  and  winds  its  way  a  short  distance  into  the  Colum> 

Ibia.        '  ■  • 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th,  I  arose  before  day,  called' 
my  Indians,  and  as  soon  as  any  light  appeared,  we  again 
launched  out  into  the  broad  river  in  our  frail  canoe.  For 
about  ten  miles,  the  surrounding  country  was  mountainous, 
forming  bold  shores  ;  after  which  the  mountains  recede,  and 
the  river  spreads  out  in  some  places  from  one  to  three  miles 
wide,  and  an  extensive  region  around  presents  the  appear- 
ance of  a  rich  soil  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  There  are 
some  fine  prairies,  but  far  the  greatest  part  is  thickly  wood- 
ed.   In  this  part  of  the  river  there  are  many  fertile  islands, 

some  of  which  are  large ;  the  current  moves  on  gently,  and 
12* 


'•i  '-■■■  ■  '■' ^  ■  "<»  (,  . 
•  ■.;•<; -^k^ji'v,. 

■•■■■■    '.•'itili 
i-  ;     ■-"'.•'»]•  ''•■.^.*''-' 

J.-V-i:^?,,'r.V(.-^I:,'I 


I.  .■• 


\  : 


'.»:    ■• 


^ir''tii»  ■■■*:■  ■ .  ■ 


I, '" . 


138 


CIVILIZATION. 


the  whole  scenery  around  is  fascinating.  As  I  descended 
towards  the  great  Pacific  ocean,  water  fowl,  such  as  geese, 
swans,  and  a  very  great  variety  of  ducks,  began  to  multi. 
ply  ;  also  every  now  and  then  seals  made  their  appearance, 
so  that  I  became  cheered  with  the  increasing  exhibitions  of 
animated  nature,  greater  than  I  had  witnessed  since  leav. 
ing  the  buffalo  country.  Unexpectedly,  about  the  middle  of 
the  day,  on  the  north  shore  in  a  thick  grove  of  large  firs, 
I  saw  two  white  men  with  a  yoke  of  oxen  drawing  logs  for 
sawing.  I  hailed  them,  and  enquired  of  them  the  distance 
to  Fort  Vancouver.  They  replied, "  only  seven  miles  around 
yonder  point,  down  that  prairie,"  Soon  we  came  to  a  very 
large  saw-miU,  around  which  were  large  piles  of  lumber  and 
several  cottages.  This  looked  like  business  upon  a  mucli 
greater  scale  than  I  had  expected.  I  called  a  short  time  at 
this  establishment,  where  I  found  several  Scotch  laborers  be. 
longing  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  with  their  Indian 
families.  Although  it  was  then  about  noon,  they  offered 
me  a  breakfast  of  peas  and  fish,  taking  it  for  granted,  that 
men  who  travel  these  western  regions,  eat  only  when  they 
can  get  an  opportunity.  At  two  in  the  afternoon,  arrived 
at  Fort  Vancouver,  and  never  did  I  feel  more  joyful  to  set  my 
feet  on  shore,  where  I  expected  to  find  a  hospitable  people 
and  the  comforts  of  life.  Doct.  J.  McLaughlin,  a  chief  | 
factor  and  superintendent  of  this  fort  and  of  the  business 
of  the  Company  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  received  me 
with  many  expressions  of  kindness,  and  invited  me  to  make 
his  residence  my  home  for  the  winter,  and  as  long  as  it 
would  suit  my  convenience.  Never  could  such  an  invita. 
tion  be  more  thankfully  received. 

It  was  now  seven  months  and  two  days  since  I  left  my 
home,  and  during  that  time,  excepting  a  few  delays,  I  had 
been  constantly  journeying,  and  the  fifly-six  last  days  with 
Indians  only.  I  felt  that  I  had  great  reason  for  gratitude  to 
God  for  his  merciful  providences  toward  me,  in  defending 


PBOVIDENCE. 


139 


land  so  providing  for  me,  that  I  had  not  actually  suffered  a 
Isingle  day  for  the  want  of  food.  For  months  I  had  no  bread 
Inor  scarcely  any  vegetables,  and  I  often  felt  that  a  change 
laud  a  variety  would  have  been  agreeable,  but  in  no  case  did 
ll  suffer,  nor  in  any  case  was  I  brought  to  the  necessity  of 
leating  dogs  or  horse  flesh.  In  every  exigency  God  provi- 
Ided  something  wholesome  and  palatable. 


^^.. 


'VI    )' 


v-> 


♦* 


'.-.'V 


■K> 


:'■<■• 


•♦  ', 


•  .   ^-."  ■        ■  ■*■     ;, 


'>"'V**--"''^, 


ii'iliiii,^^-^  ■■■'■     ''"' 


If 

i 

r' 

li;. 

■• 

sill 

1 

i- 

lym 

.f' 

§r 

ftiH- 

'  'i     • 

i'i^^l^;: 

'  J* 

\ 

■  '■*• 

1 

■  ll   . . 


140 


PORT  VANCOUVEK. 


■■: .  ^f- 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Description  of  Port  Vancouver — departure  for  Port  George  and  monilj  | 
of  the  Columbia — mouths  of  the  Multnomah — Wappatoo  island- 
May  Dacre— Coffin  rock— Cowalitz  river — Indian  friendship— Pacific  | 
ocean — Gray's  bay — Astoria. 

Fort  Vancouver  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Co. 
lumbia  river  about  sixty  rods  from  the  shore,  upon  a  prairie 
of  some  few  hundred  acres,  surrounded  with  dense  woods. 
The  country  around,  for  a  great  distance,  is  generally  level 
and  of  good  soil,  covered  with  heavy  forests,  excepting  some 
prairies  interspersed,  and  presents  a  pleasing  aspect.     It  it  I 
in  north  latitude  45°  37',  and  longitude  122°  50',  west  from 
Greenwich — one   hundred  miles  from  the  Pacific  ocean.  | 
The  enclosure  is  strongly  stockaded,  thirty-seven  rods  long, 
and  eighteen  rods  wide,  facing  the  south.     There  are  about  I 
one  hundred  white  persons  belonging  to  this  establishment, 
and  an  Indian  population  of  three  hundred  in  a  small  coin. 
pass  contiguous.      There  are  eight  substantial  buildings 
within  the  enclosure,  and  a  great  number  of  small  onesi 
without,  making  quite  a  village  appearance. 

October  17th.  After  one  night's  rest  in  this  fort,  I  left  for  I 
Fort  George,  situated  ninety-one  miles  below  this,  near  the 
confluence  of  the  Columbia  with  the  Pacific,  known  in  the 
United  States  by  the  name  of  Astoria.  I  took  this  early 
departure  that  I  might  visit  the  lower  part  of  the  river  and 
the  sea  coast,  and  return  before  the  rainy  season  should 
commence ;  and  also  to  avail  myself  of  a  passage  in  the 
May  Dacre  of  Boston,  Capt.  Lambert,  a  brig  belonging  to 
Capt.  Wyeth  and  Company,  which  was  lying  twenty- five 
miles  below,  at  the  lowest  mouth  Oi*  the  Multnomah.    Mr. 


WAPPATOO  ISLAND. 


141 


Ij.  K.  Townsend,  an  ornithologist,  from  Philadelphia,  ac- 
jcompanied  me  to  the  brig.  Our  canoe  was  large  and  pro- 
pelled by  Sandwich  islanders,  of  whom  there  are  many  in 
this  country,  who  have  come  here  as  sailors  and  laborers. 
?ive  miles  below  the  fort,  we  passed  the  main  branch  of  the 

[ultnomah  river.     It  is  a  large  river  coming  from  the 

juth,  and  is  divided  by  islands  into  four  branches,  at  its 
confluence  with  the  Columbia.  Here  commences  the  W^p- 
[)atoo  island,  so  called  from  a  nutritive  root  found  in  the 
email  lakes  in  the  interior,  which  is  much  sought  for  by  In- 
dians as  an  article  of  food.    This  island  is  about  eighteen 

liles  long,  and  five  miles  wide,  formed  by  a  part  of  the 

[ultnomah,  branching  off  about  six  miles  up  the  main  riv- 
er, running  in  a  westerly  and  north-westerly  direction, 
ind  again  uniting  with  the  Columbia  eighteen  miles  below 
^he  main  branch.  The  branch  which  flows  around  and 
jfonns  the  island,  is  about  fifteen  rods  wide,  and  of  suffi- 
cient depth  for  small  shipping  most  of  the  year.  It  was 
apon  this  island  the  Multnomah  Indians  formerly  resided,  but 
llhey  have  became  as  a  tribe,  extinct.  The  land  is  very 
fertile,  and  most  of  it  sufficiently  high  to  be  free  from  inju- 
by  the  June  freshet.  Some  parts  of  it  are  prairie,  but 
ihe  greatest  part  is  well  wooded  with  oak,  ash,  balsam  fir, 
ind  the  species  of  poplar  often  called  balm  of  Gilead,  and 
by  most  travelers,  cotton-wood.  At  the  south-west  of  this 
Island,  there  is  a  range  of  mountains  which  render  a  space 
Df  country  broken,  but  beyond  these,  it  is  said  by  hunters, 
khat  there  is  an  extensive  valley  well  adapted  to  agricul- 
ture.     -        .. 

We  arrived  at  the  landing  place  of  the  May  Dacre,  five 
)'clock  in  the  aflternoon,  and  were   politely   received  on 

}ard  by  Capt.  Lambert.    The  brig  was  moored  along  side 

natural  wharf  of  basalt. 

Sabbath,  October  18th.  Part  of  the  day  I  retired  to  a 
Ismail  prairie  back  from  the  river  to  be  free  from  the  noise 


.  t.ii 


"  .V:  ■  ■■  "  -  ■-  ^  -  ;  .^»     ' 


>  .  .y.,^  i-ti.  ■. 


•    i 


->•  ;■; 


1-    ,    « ' 


■N 


y& 


- :  \ 


i  .■•*  . 


tm  ■■'■ 


If;:-- 


142 


HALLBT*8  COMET. 


of  labor  in  which  the  men  were  engaged  in  preparing  fop 
their  voyage ;  and  part  of  it  I  passed  in  the  state  room 
which  was  assigned  me.  There  is  much  reason  to  lament 
the  entire  disregard  manifested  by  many  towards  God's 
holy  sabbath.  His  justice  will  not  always  be  deferred.] 
Those,  who  will  not  submit  to  divine  authority,  must  re: 
the  fruit  of  their  disobedience.  None  can  slight  and  abuae  | 
the  mercy  of  God  with  impunity, 

Monday,  19th.     The  brig  fell  down  the  river  with  the  I 
tide,  about  three  miles,  but  for  the  want  of  wind  anchored, 
In  the  afternoon  I  went  on  shore  for  exercise,  taking  witli 
me  a  kanaka,  that  is,  a  Sandwich  islander,  for  assistance  in  | 
any  danger.     I  made  a  long  excursion  through  woods  a 
over  prairies,  and  found  the  country  pleasant  and  fertile.  I 
The  grass  on  the  prairies  was  green,  and  might  furnish  sub. 
flistence  for  herds  of  cattle.     When  will  this  immensely  ei.  | 
tended  and  fertile  country  be  brought  under  cultivation,  a 
be  filled  with  an  industrious  population  ?    From  time  io.  I 
memorial,  the  natives  have  not  stretched  forth  a  hand  to  tiQ 
the  ground,  nor  made  an  effort  for  the  earth  to  yield  a  sin. 
gle  article  of  produce,  more  than  what  springs  up  sponta. 
neously;  nor  will  tney,  until  their  minds  are  enlightened 
by  divine  tmth.     No  philanthropise,  who  is  not  under  the 
influence  of  christian  principles,  will  ever  engage  in  the 
8elf>denying  work  of  enlightening  their  minds  and  arousing 
them  from  their  indolence.     As  on  our  frontiers,  so  on  these 
western  shores,  the  work  of  destruction,  introduced  by  those 
who  would  be  called  the  friends  of  man,  is  going  forward. 
The  Indians  in  this  lower  country,  that  is,  below  the  Cas^  | 
cades,  are  only  the  remnants  of  once  numerous  and  power, 
ful  nations. 

The  evening  was  clear  and  pleasant,  which  gave  us  an  I 
opportunity  to  see  the  comet  which  was  observed  by  Hal. 
ley  in  the  year  1682,  and  which  was  seen  again  in  1759, 
and  now  in  1835,  proving  its  time  of  revolution  to  be  about 


DBBB  ISLAND—COFFIN  KOCK. 


143 


seventy-six  and  a  half  years.    Its  train  of  light  was  very 
perceptible  and  of  about  twelve  degrees  length. 

We  had  a  favorable  wind  on  the  20th,  which,  with  the 
[current  of  the  river,  enabled  us  to  make  good  progress  on 
our  way.  Among  the  many  islands,  with  which  the  lower 
Ipart  of  this  river  abounds.  Deer  island,  thirty-three  miles 
Ibelow  Fort  Vancouver,  is  worthy  of  notice.  It  is  large,  and 
Iwhile  it  is  sufficiently  wooded  along  the  shores,  the  interior 
|i8  chiefly  a  prairie  covered  with  an  exuberant  growth  of 
and  vines  of  different  kinds,  excepting  the  grape,  of 
irhich  there  is  none  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  of  natur- 
il  growth.  In  the  interior  of  this  island  there  are  several 
Bmall  lakes,  which  are  the  resort  of  swans,  geese,  and  ducks. 
This  island  was  formerly  the  residence  of  many  Indians,  but 
jthey  are  gone,  and  nothing  is  to  be  seen  except  the  remains 
)f  a  large  village. 

Among  some  interesting  islands  of  basalt,  there  is  one 
called  Coffin  Rock,  twenty  three  miles  below  Deer  island, 
kituated  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  rising  ten  or  fifteen 
feet  above  high  freshet  water.  It  is  almost  entirely  cover- 
ed with  canoes,  ii  which  the  dead  are  deposited,  which  cir- 
cumstance gives  it  its  name.  In  the  section  of  country  from 
^appatoo  island  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  the  Indians,  instead 
i)f  committing  their  dead  to  the  earth,  deposit  them  in  ca- 
noes, and  these  are  placed  in  such  situations  as  are  most  se^ 
kure  from  beasts  of  prey — upon  such  precipices  as  this  is- 
land, upon  branches  of  trees,  or  upon  scafiblds  made  for  the 
burpose.  The  bodies  of  the  dead  are  covered  with  mats, 
|ind  split  planks  are  placed  over  them.  The  head  of  the  ca- 
loe  is  a  little  raised,  and  at  the  foot  there  is  a  hole  made  for 
i^ater  to  escape. 

A  few  miles  below  Coffin  island,  the  Cowalitz,  a  river  of 
considerable  magnitude  coming  from  the  north-east^  flows 
[nto  the  Columbia,  which  is  about  thirty  rods  wide,  deep, 
md  navigable  for  boats  a  very  considerable  distance*     The 


',-■;  .";j,/r«;'..'-llf,.'l 


,  •■,■■.1'     Af  V    , 

^  ■    -.■■^  '^iM  -. 


) : 


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>    '^1 


%i^.:  I 


PS  >  ■■  - 


m":  .'' 


144         CAFT.  LAMBERT  AND  THE  SKILL00T8  CHIEF. 

country  up  this  river  is  said  to  equal  in  richness  of  goi] 
any  part  of  the  Oregon  Territory,  and  to  be  so  diversifiec 
with  woods  and  prairies,  that  the  farmer  could  at  once  reap 
the  fruits  of  his  labour. 

Anchored  for  the  night,  on  account  of  numerous  sand-bars  I 
and  the  windings  of  the  navigable  channel.  The  evenimi 
was  cloudy,  and  there  was  the  appearance  of  a  gatheriDpl 
storm  ;  but  we  were  so  surrounded  with  high  hills,  that  tiit| 
situation  was  considered  safe. 

The  wind,  on  the  21st,  was  light,  which  rendered  our  piul 
gress  slow.  This  section  of  the  country  is  mountaino 
the  ranges  running  from  the  south-east  to  the  north.we$t| 
and  covered  with  a  very  dense  and  heavy  growth  of  woodi 
mostly  fir  and  oak.  A  chief  of  the  Skilloots  with  a  few ol 
his  people  came  on  board.  He  was  very  talkative  and  sport  I 
ive.  When  he  was  about  to  leave  he  told  Capt.  L.  that  ail 
they  had  been  good  friends,  and  were  now  about  to  separate! 
he  wished  for  a  present.  Capt.  L.  told  his  steward  to  givtl 
him  a  shirt.  The  chief  took  it  and  put  it  on,  and  thensalil 
"  how  much  better  would  a  new  pair  of  pantaloons  look  witil 
this  shirt."  The  captain  ordered  him  the  article  asked  fori 
Now  said  the  chief,  "  a  vest  would  become  me,  and  increasl 
my  influence  with  my  people,"  This  was  also  given.  Theil 
he  added, "  well,  Tie*,  I  suppose  we  shall  not  see  each  othal 
again,  can  you  see  me  go  away  without  a  clean  blanket 
which  would  make  me  a  full  dress."  The  captain  anawerl 
ed,  "  go  about  your  business ;  for  there  is  no  end  to  yoiii| 
asking,  so  long  as  I  continue  to  give."  Then  the  chief 
brought  forward  a  little  son,  and  said,  "  he  is  a  good  bovl 
will  you  not  make  him  a  present  ?"  Captain  L.  gave  hirail 
few  small  articles,  and  they  went  away  rejoicing  more  oval 
the  presents  which  they  received,  than  sorrowing  for  thedc 


U,-'' 


*  Chief,  or  gentleman. 


fciit 


FIRST  VIEW  OP  THE  PACIFC  OCEAN. 


145 


parture  of  the  May  Dacre.     We  passed  to-day  Pillar  rock, 
which   stands  isolated,  more  than  a  half  mile  from   the 
north  shore,  composed  of  basalt,  and  is  about  forty  feet  high 
and  fifteen  in  diameter.     We  anchored  a  few  miles  below. 
On  the  morning  of  the  22nd,  we  waited  for  a  favorable 
[tide  until  nine  o'clock,  when  we  got  under  way  with  a 
brisk  wind  from  the  east.     Here  the  river  begins  to  spread 
lout  into  a  bay,  but  owing  to  many  shoals,  the  navigation  is 
Idifficult.    We  ran  aground,  but  the  increase  of  the  tide  set 
[us  afloat  again,  and  soon  the  great  Pacific  ocean  opened 
|to  our  view.     This  boundary  of  the  "  far  west "  was  to  me 
Ian  object  of  great  interest ;  and  when  I  looked  upon  the 
irk  rolling  waves,  and  reflected  upon  the  vast  expanse  of 
[five  thousand  miles,  without  an  intervening  island  until  you 
[arrive  at  the  Japan  coast,  a  stretch  of  thought  was  requir- 
ed, like  contemplating  infinity,  which  can  measure  only  by 
succession  its  expansion  and  sublimity.     Like  the  vanish. 
\nc  lines  of  prospect,  so  is  contemplation  lost  in  this  extent 
3f  ocean.  'j  ,      ■■.■.■ '     ;  ;'. 

As  we  proceeded  on  our  way,  we  left  Gray's  bay  at  the 
right,  extending  inland  to  the  north  some  few  miles,  in  which 
on  a  voyage  of  discovery  the  ship  Columbia  anchored,  and 
|from  whose  commander  the  bay  took  its  name.  Nearly  op- 
posite we  passed  Tongue  Point,  which  extends  nearly  two 
(liles  into  the  bay  or  river,  from  the  south.  It  is  considera- 
bly elevated,  rocky,  and  covered  with  woods.  Soon  after 
this,  Astoria  was  announced.  My  curiosity  was  excited. 
looked,  but  could  not  discover  what  to  all  on  board  was  so 
plainly  seen — I  blamed  my  powers  of  vision — and  reluc- 
tantly asked  the  captain,  where  is  Astoria  ?  "  Why,"  he  re- 
plied, "right  down  there — that  is  Astoria."  I  said  within 
|inyself,  is  that  "  the  far-famed  New  York  of  the  west  ?" 
^ic  transit  gloria  mundi  I 


^■J^<^''^: 


Vf'.'i 


■  '■  "k 


i :.  J. 


« 


W-- 


•'''.■,^ 


,••  A.. y'  ^-       .  .      :•>■  r 


13 


J  a" 

i 


t,  lit .;  <*  ■ 

rat'*  *  /.'      .   ■  ■'   .- 

11..  ''•■  ^'^ 


1     : 

-■.ri: 


te'  • 


146 


A8T0BIA. 


CHAPTER  X. 


Description  of  Port  George— Mouth  of  the  Columbia,— Dangerous  \A 
— Mountainous  coast — Varieties  of  timber— Good  location  for  ani»l 
sionary  station— Continued  rains — Dense  forests — Bxcursion  in  J 
canoe  down  the  bay — View  of  the  coast— Disasters  at  the  entranced 
the  Columbia— Ship  William  and  Anne — Ship  Isabella— TonqujiK I 
Japanese  junk— Reflections — Water  fowl— Return  to  Fort  Vancoutul 
•~The  regard  Indians  show  the  dead— Indian  kindness. 


When  we  arrived  in  the  small  bay,  upon  which  Foul 
George  (Astoria)  is  situated,  Capt.  L.  manned  a  boat  tol 
take  me  on  shore,  in  which  he  also  embarked  to  pay  his  n.1 
apects  to  the  governor,  who  had  the  politeness  to  meet  usul 
the  landing,  and  invited  us,  with  hearty  welcome,  to  li| 
dwelling.  After  having  interchanged  the  customary  s: 
tations  and  made  a  short  stay,  the  captain  re-embarked  aul 
made  his  way  for  cape  Disappointment ;  and  the  wind  akj 
tide  being  favorable,  without  any  delay,  he  passed  the  d 
gerous  bar,  and  shaped  his  course  for  Boston.  Fort  Geor^l 
is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  bay,  ten  miles  from  captl 
Disappointment,  is  without  any  fortifications,  has  only  twel 
small  buildings  made  of  hewed  logs ;  about  two  acres  clearl 
ed,  a  part  of  which  is  cultivated  with  potatoes  and  gardetl 
vegetables.  It  is  occupied  by  two  white  men  of  the  Huil 
son  Bay  Company,  for  the  purpose  of  trade  with  thefewre-l 
maining  Indians,  who  reside  about  these  shores.  Thougil 
this  is  the  present  condition  of  Astoria,  yet  the  time  musil 
come,  when  at  the  mouth  of  this  noble  river  there  will  be  il 
place  of  business,  and  es|>ecially  may  this  be  exj>ected,  at 
this  bay  affords  the  only  good  harbor  for  a  long  distance  oil 
this  coast.  I  should  think  the  north  side  of  iiie  bay  a  littkl 
above  the  cape,  adjoining  what  is  called  Baker's  bay,  wouldl 


fc^ 


'  .'if 


MOUTH  OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 


147 


be  the  most  desirable  location  for  a  place  of  business,  as 

Ithat  is  the  safest  place  for  ships  to  ride  at  anchor.     On  that 

side  of  the  Columbia  bay,  the  country  is  more  open  and 

pleasant  for  a  commercial  town.     On  the  south  side,  where 

storia  was  located,  the  mountains  or  higb  hills  come  down 

Uery  near  the  shore,  are  rocky  and  precipitous,  preventing 

southern  prospect,  and  in  the  short  winter  days  of  a  north 

latitude  of  46°  17'  they  almost  exclude  the  sun. 

A  difficulty,  of  such  a  nature  as  is  not  easily  overcome, 
exists  in  regard  to  the  navigation  of  this  river,  which  is 
|he  sand  bar  at  its  entrance.  It  is  about  five  miles  across 
the  bar  from  cape  Disappointment  out  to  sea.  In  no  part 
}f  that  distance  is  the  water  upon  the  bar  over  eight  fath. 
oms,  and  in  one  place  only  five,  and  the  channel  only  about 
lalfa  mile  wide.  And  so  wide  and  open  is  the  ocean,  that 
^here  is  always  a  heavy  swell,  and  when  the  wind  is  above 
gentle  breeze,  there  are  breakers  quite  across  the  bar,  and 
^here  is  no  passing  it  except  when  the  wind  and  tide  are 
jth  very  favorable.  Without  the  bar  there  is  no  anchor- 
age, and  there  have  been  instances,  in  the  winter  season, 
|)f  ships  laying  off  and  on  thirty  days,  waiting  for  an  op. 
}rtunity  to  pass  ;  and  always  a  good  pilot  is  needed.  Per- 
bps  there  have  been  more  lives  lost  here,  in  proportion  to 
(he  number  of  those  who  have  entered  this  river,  than  in  en- 
sring  almost  any  other  harbor  in  the  world.  But  the  ca- 
lamities have  been  less  frequent,  for  some  years  past,  than 
9rmerly ;  and  should  a  steam-boat  be  stationed  at  the  cape, 
rhen  business  shall  be  sufficiently  multiplied  to  warrant  the 
Expense,  to  tow  vessels  over,  the  delays  and  dangers  would 
greatly  diminished. 

The  main  bay  is  four  miles  wide  at  the  mouth  of  the  riv- 
fcr,  between  cape  Disappointment  and  Point  Adams  ;  ex- 
pends sixteen  miles  up  the  river  ;  is  nine  miles  wide  between 
Jhenook  bay  on  the  north  and  Youngs'  bay  on  the  south ; 
ind  seven  wide  between  tort  George  and  Chenook  point. 


'  **fll!. ..','    ••: 


SP»!' 


i ;  1 

It'  ?• 


146 


VARIETIES  OF  TDfBES. 


It  is  filled  with  many  sand-bars,  and  one,  which  is  called 
Sand  island,  a  little  within  the  capes,  seen  only  when  the 
tide  is  down,  is  dangerous  to  ships  when  not  in  the  charge 
of  skilful  pilots.     .1     ,,{>     .If*  ' 

The  section  of  country  about  the  sea  coast  is  very  rough 
and  mountainous,  and  covered  with  the  most  heavy  and 
dense  forest  of  any  part  of  America  of  which  I  have  anv 
knowledge.  The  trees  are  almost  all  of  the  genus  pinug, 
but  I  saw  none  of  the  species  commonly  called  pine,  am 
where  below  the  Cascades.  The  balsam  fir,  of  which  there 
are  three  species,  constitute  far  the  greatest  part  of  the  for. 
est  trees.  White  cedar,  spruce,  hemloc,  and  yew,  are  in. 
terspersed.  Three  species  of  oak,  of  which  the  white  is  far 
the  most  common,  prevail  in  small  sections ;  and  ig 
some  low  bottom-lands,  the  species  of  poplar,  commoniv 
called  the  balm  of  Gilead,  and  by  some  bitter  cotton.wood, 
is  most  general.  The  balsam  fir  grows  very  large ;  notuii. 
frequently  four  and  six  feet  in  diameter  and  two  hundred 
feet  high.  I  measured  one  which  was  eight  feet  in  diame. 
ter  and  about  two  hundred  and  fifly  feet  high.  As  I  do  not 
here  intend  to  enter  upon  the  dendrology  of  this  countr},l| 
pass  farther  remarks  upon  this  subject  ibr  the  present. 

There  are  some  tracts  of  good  land,  which  might  easily  | 
be  brought  under  cultivation,  in  difierent  parts  of  this  mous. 
tainous  and  iron  bound  coast.     One  about  Youngs'  bay,  ei. 
tending  down  to  and  about  Point  Adams.     This  would  be  a  I 
favorable  location  for  a  missionary  station,  where  access 
could  be  had  to  the  Clatsop  and  Killamook  Indians,  who  are  | 
said  to  be  numerous. 

At  this  season  of  the  year,  there  are  but  few  Indiaml 
who  reside  about  this  trading  post,  finding  it  more  for  their 
comfort  to  retire  into  the  forests  during  the  rainy  season  ol| 
the  winter,  locating  themselves  upon  small  prairies  along  ri> 
vers  and  streams,  where  fuel  is  easily  obtained  and  where  I 


It   '  . 


!:i4i> 


A  WATER  EXCURSION. 


149 


some  game  is  found  to  add  to  their  winter's  stock  of  provis- 
ions. 

During  my  continuance  in  this  place  it  was  my  inten- 
tion to  cross  the  bay  over  to  Chenook  point,  and  from  thence 
down  to  cape  Disappointment,  which  it  is  said  affords  a 
very  extensive  and  interesting  prospect.  But  from  day  to 
day  it  rained,  and  the  high  winds  created  such  a  sea  in  the 
whole  bay,  that  it  was  not  safe  to  attempt  the  passage. 

On  the  24th,  the  wind  was  high,  and  the  weather 
very  uncomfortable,  and  in  the  aft^noon  the  storm  increas- 
ed accompanied  with  snow,  which,  however,  melted  as  fast 
as  it  fell.  The  sea  fowl  appeared  to  be  alarmed  by  the  se- 
verity of  so  early  and  unexpected  a  storm  of  snow,  and 
came  in  from  the  ocean  in  great  numbers,  flying  and 
I  screaming,  as  if  in  search  of  a  safe  retreat. 

The  storm  being  somewhat  moderated,  on  the  26th,  Mr. 
I  Dunn,  the  superintendent  of  the  fort,  and  myself,  for  exer- 
cise took  our  rifles  to  go  back  into  the  woods  to  hunt  deer. 
But  so  dense  was  the  forest,  so  filled  and  interwoven  with 
various  vint-^       '  shrubbery,  that  it  was  next  to  impossible 
|to  make  any       ^less,  and  ^e  did  not  penetrate  the  woods 
|mor3  than  one  mile,  before  we  gave  up  the  object,  and  turn- 
ed our  course  back,  which,  with  diligent  efforts,  occupied 
Iflome  hours.     If  a  luxuriant  growth  of  trees  and  shrubbery 
lis  indicative  of  a  rich  soil,  then  no  part  of  the  world  can 
surpass  the  country  about  these  shores. 

The  morning  of  the  27th  was  pleasant  and  inviting  for  a 
yater  excursion ;  but  on  account  of  sudden  changes  of  weath- 
er which  are  common  at  this  season  of  the  year,  I  did  not 
think  it  best  to  cross  the  wide  bav,  but  took  four  Chenook 
Indians  and  a  half  breed,  named  Thos.  Pish  Kiplin  who 
could  speak  English,  and  went  iu  a  large  canoe  down  to 
/latsop  and  Point  Adams  .line  miles  from  the  fort.  There 
ras  a  gentle  wind  from  the  east,  which  favored  hoisting  a 

small  sail.   This  gave  us  a  pleasant  sail  at  the  rate  of  eight 
13* 


■•^■'V-'.-.ist/,-  • 

*'■  ^Kt-^V  ■■'■'''' 


.  H 


>. 


he,-*.'!:.*'-* 


^. 


150 


A  CBITICAL  SITUATION. 


miles  an  hour.  By  this  time  the  waves  had  so  increased 
and  the  white  caps  were  so  numerous  that  to  one  not  ac. 
quainted  with  nautical  adventures,  the  danger  in  a  canoe 
appeared  great.  We  could  do  nothing,  except  to  run  be. 
fore  the  wind,  and  when  we  were  upon  the  top  of  one  wave, 
it  seemed  the  next  plunge  would  swallow  us  up.  Fears 
were  of  no  use  in  this  situation,  and  I  therefore  kept  up  such 
conversation  as  was  calculated  to  suppress  any  which  might 
arise  in  the  minds  of  the  men.  It  was  interesting  to  see  how 
the  Indians  would  take  the  waves  with  their  paddles  so  as 
to  favor  the  safety  of  the  canoe.  But  our  rapid  progress 
soon  brought  us  to  the  shore  near  Point  Adams.  Here  a 
new  difficulty,  and  unexpected  to  me,  arose,  which  was, 
how  should  we  land  in  the  high  surf;  but  my  skilful  mar- 
iners  watched  an  opportunity  to  shoot  the  canoe  forward  as 
far  as  possible  on  a  flowing  wave,  and  as  soon  as  it  broke, 
they  leaped  into  the  water  and  seized  the  canoe  and  light. 
ened  it  over  the  returning  surge,  and  drew  it  up  beyond  the 
reach  of  the  waves.  This  management  was  an  ocular  den.  | 
onstration  of  the  skill  of  Indians  on  dangerous  seas.  1 
took  with  me  Kiplin  and  walked  several  miles  on  the  hard  | 
and  smooth  sandy  beach,  so  far  around  to  the  south,  that  I 
had  a  view  of  the  coast  north  and  south,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach.  High,  and  in  most  parts  perpendicular,  ba. 
Baltic  rocks  lined  the  shores.  Who  but  that  Being,  who 
sets  bounds  to  the  sea,  and  has  said  to  the  proud  waves, 
hitherto  shalt  thou  come  and  no  farther,  reared  these  vol.  | 
canic  walls  ?  This  vast  expanse  of  ocean  and  these  stu- 
pendous works  of  God  naturally  fill  the  mind  with  awe. 

In  returning,  I  walked  several  miles,  farther  than  the  | 
place  where  we  landed,  along  the  shores  toward  Youngs' 
bay,  and  went  on  board  the  brig  Lama,  Captain  McMel,  I 
which  was  on  its  way  up  to  the  fort.      In  my  excursion  | 
about  Clatsop  and  Point  Adams,  I  saw  several  canoes  cou- 
taining  the  dead,  deposited  as  I  have  already  described. 


LOSS  OF  THE  WILLIAM  AND  ANNE. 


151 


I  have  mentioned  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia^ 
and  Sand  island,  as  dangerous  to  those  who  are  not  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  entrance  into  this  river.     In  the  year 
1828,  the  ship  William  and  Anne  was  cast  away  a  little 
within  the  bar.     All  on  board,  twenty-six  in  number,  were 
lost,  and  it  could  not  be  ascertained  what  were  the  circum- 
stances of  the  lamentable  catastrophe,  as  no  one  was  left  to 
tell  the  story.     There  were  conjectures  that  after  the  ship 
had  run  aground,  the  Indians  for  the  sake  of  plunder  killed 
the  crew.     This  is  only  conjecture ;  but  it  is  very  strange, 
that  as  they  were  not  far  from  the  shore,  and  the  beach  was 
sandy,  that  none  escaped.     The  Indians  carried  off  and  se- 
creted whatever  of  the  goods  they  could  find.     The  men  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company  sent  to  the  chiefs  to  deliver  up 
what  they  had  taken  away.     They  sent  Dr.  McLaughlin  at 
Fort  Vancouver  two  small  articles  of  no  value.     Doct.  M* 
I  with  an  armed  force  went  down  to  the  Chenooks  and  de- 
j  manded  a  surrender  of  the  goods.     The  chief  with  his  war~ 
I  riors  put  himself  in  the  attitude  of  resistance,  and  fired 
I  upon  the  men  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.     They   re* 
j  turned  the  fire  with  a  swivel,  not  to  injure  them,  but  to  let 
them  know  with  what  force  they  had  to  contend,  if  they 
I  persisted  in  their  resistance.     On  this  the  Indians  all  fied 
into   the  woods.      The  doctor  with  his  men  landed  and 
searched  for  the  goods,  many  of  which  they  found.  Whilst 
I  they  were  searching,  the  chief  was  seen  skulking  and  draw- 
ing near — and  cocked  his  gun,  but  before  he  had  time  to 
fire,  one  of  the  white  men  shot  him  down.     None  besides 
were  hurt.     This  was  done,  as  the  men  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
I  Company  say,  not  so  much  for  saving  the  value  of  the  prop- 
I  erty,  as  to  teach  the  Indians  not  to  expect  profit  from  such 
disasters,  and  to  take  away  temptation  to  murder  white  men 
I  for  the  sake  of  plunder. 

On  the  23d  of  May,  1830,  the  ship  Isabella  was  cast  away 
upon  a  sand-bar  projecting  from  Sand  island,  which  is  a 


' '  L''^'i-f  .■■■ '  'I'icL  * 

■.•5  .'frt. 


J  ■ 
,« 


f- 


.    < 


162 


OTHER  DISASTERS. 


ir 


little  within  the  capes.  As  soon  as  she  struck,  the  men  all 
deserted  her,  and  without  stopping  at  Fort  George,  made 
their  way  to  Fort  Vancouver.  It  is  thought,  that  if  they 
had  remained  on  board  and  waited  the  tide,  she  might  have 
been  saved.     The  cargo  was  mostly  saved. 

In  1811,  the  Tonquin,  sent  out  from  New  York  by  Mr. 
Astor,  to  form  a  fur  trading  establishment  at  or  near  the 
mouth  of  this  river,  lost  eight  men  in  crossing  the  bar, 
The  calamity  resulted  from  the  ignorance  of  Captain  Thorn 
of  the  dangers,  and  his  great  want  of  prudence. 

About  thirty  miles  south  of  this  river,  there  are  the  re. 
mains  of  a  ship  sunk  not  far  from  the  shore.  It  is  not 
known  by  whom  she  was  owned,  nor  from  what  part  of  the 
world  she  came,  nor  when  cast  away.  The  Indians  fre. 
quently  get  bees- wax  from  her.  It  is  not  improbabable  that 
she  was  from  some  part  of  Asia. 

A  Japanese  junk  was  cast  away,  fifteen  miles  south  of 
cape  Flattery  in  March,  1833.  Out  of  seventeen  men  only 
three  were  saved.  In  the  following  May,  Captain  McNeil 
of  the  Lama  brought  the  three  survivors  to  Fort  Vancouver, 
where  they  were  kindly  treated  by  the  gentlemen  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  in  the  following  October,  they 
were  sent  in  one  of  their  ships  to  England,  to  be  forwarded 
to  their  own  country  and  home.  This  junk  was  loaded 
with  rich  China  ware,  cotton  cloths,  and  rice.  In  the  same 
year  eleven  Japanese,  in  distress,  were  drifted  in  a  junk  to  j 
Oahu,  Sandwich  islands.  It  is  not  a  very  uncommon  thing, 
that  junks  and  other  craft  have  been  found  by  whale  ships 
in  the  great  Pacific  ocean,  in  a  state  of  starvation,  without 
the  nautical  instruments  and  skill  of  mariners  to  enable  I 
them  to  find  their  way  to  any  port  of  safety.  Undoubted- 
\y  many  are  entirely  lost,  while  others  drift  to  unknown 
shores. 

May  not  the  above  facts  throw  light  upon  the  original 
peopling  of  America,  which  has  engaged  the  attention  of  I 


Km- 


■  •* 


DIFFERENT  THEORIES  OF  ORIGIN. 


153 


men  for  a  long  period.  While  one  man  demonstrates  to  hi» 
own  satisfaction,  that  the  first  inhabitants  of  this  continent 
must  have  crossed  from  the  north-east  part  of  Asia,  because- 
of  the  resemblance  of  the  people  to  each  other,  and  the  ease 
with  which  the  strait  is  passed  in  canoes — another  with  noi 
less  certainty,  proves  from  the  diversity  of  languages,  from* 
the  impossibility  of  tracing  their  origin,  and  from  other 
reasons,  that  an  equinoctial  union  of  Africa  and  America 
must  have  existed  in  some  age  of  the  world  i^nce  the  uni> 
versal  deluge,  and  some  violent  convulsion  of  nature  has* 
since  dissevered  them.  Others  would  confine  them  to  the 
descendants  of  the  Jews,  and  industriously  trace  in  their 
customs,  the  ancient  worship,  and  rites  of  God's  peculiar 
people.  Some  see  in  them  the  confirmation  of  their  favor- 
ite theory,  that  human  institutions  and  states,  like  human 
and  vegetable  nature,  have  their  birth,  growth,  maturity,  and 
decay ;  and  believe  that,  as  it  respects  these  tribes,  these 
tendencies  have  already,  for  centuries,  been  in  operation  ta 
produce  their  extinction.  But  from  whatever  single  or  nu» 
i  merical  causes  they  have  had  their  origin,  their  own  tradi- 
tions and  the  histories  of  more  civilized  nations  seem  unable 
I  to  inform  us.  Physical  causes  alone,  we  think,  are  ade- 
quate to  account  for  the  many  features  of  resemblance 
which  they  possess,  even  though  they  might,  at  different 
and  distant  periods  of  time  have  been  drifted,  or  in  any  oth- 
|er  manner  found  their  way,,  from  remote  countries. 

About  this  time  of  the  year,  water  fowl  of  various  genera 
land  species  begin  to  visit  the  bays  and  lagoons,  and  as  the 
season  advances,  they  gradually  proceed  into  the  interior  of 
the  country,  and  the  rivers  and  lakes  abound  with  them. 
[Geese,  swans,  ducks,  and  gulls,  wing  their  way  over  us,  and 
their  screams,  particularly  of  swans,  are  at  times  almost  deaf- 
ening. The  swan  is  not  the  one  common  in  the  United  States. 
It  is  the  Bewick's  swan,  but  is  characterized  by  the  same 
unsullied  plumage,  its  attitudes  and  motions,  while  sailing 


■  •  ■  :<<  :'''|:^ ; 


\m 


v^  ^> 


•^c- 


"'■    P  ■■'.'•        -r.  ■  ■ 


ffiii  .i« 


l(t.i:  t  \' 


154 


BETUBN  TO  FORT  VANCOUVES. 


over  its  liquid  element,  are  equally  graceful,  and  its  voice 
even  louder  and  more  sonorous.  Of  the  geese  there  are 
four  kinds ;  the  white,  white  fronted,  the  Canada,  and  Hutch. 
ins.  Of  the  ducks,  there  are  the  black  or  surf  duck,  the 
canvass-back,  the  blue-bill,  the  long-tailed,  the  harlequin, 
the  pin.tail,  and  the  golden-eyed.  The  number  of  these 
water  fowl  is  immense,  and  may  be  seen  on  the  wing,  swim. 
ing  upon  the  waters,  or  searching  for  their  food  along  the 
shores.  They  constitute  a  large  item  of  Indian  living  ajid 
trade,  and  find  a  conspicuous  place  upon  the  tables  of  the 
gentlemen  engaged  in  the  fur  business. 

Wednesday,  October  28th.  I  took  passage  on  board  a 
canoe,  going  on  an  express  from  the  Lama,  recently  arrived 
from  a  northern  voyage  to  and  about  Queen  Charlotte's 
island,  to  Fort  Vancouver.  The  canoe  was  large,  carrying 
about  fifteen  hundred  weight  including  men  and  baggage, 
manned  by  three  white  men  and  three  Indians.  The  day 
was  pleasant,  more  so  than  any  we  had  had  for  many  past, 
which  was  a  favorable  circumstance  for  passing  through 
the  bay,  and  around  Tongue  Point  where  the  current  wai 
80  strong,  that  it  required  the  full  exertion  of  the  men  to 
double  it.  Ten  miles  further  we  passed  Pillar  Rock,  a  few 
miles  above  which  we  encamped  on  the  north  shore,  where 
the  mountains  came  down  so  close  to  the  shore,  that  we  | 
hardly  found  room  to  pitch  my  tent  above  high  tide  water. 
The  men  maue  a  large  fire,  which  was  cheering  and  com. 
fortable,  and  the  supper  which  they  prepared  was  eaten  with 
a  keener  appetite  than  many  a  one  amidst  all  the  applian- 
ces of  wealth  and  luxury. 

On  the  29th,  arose  before  day,  and  was  willing  to  take  I 
an  early  departure  from  a  place  where  tide  and  mountains 
disputed  territory.  By  diligently  pursuing  our  way  until 
eight  in  the  evening,  we  made  forty-five  miles,  which  was  a 
great  day's  work  in  going  up  the  river  against  the  current, 
which  is  strong  when  the  tide  is  setting  out.     I  noticed  on 


REGARD  FOR  THE  DEAD. 


155 


my  return  a  singular  rouky  point  on  the  north  shore,  a  short 
distance  below  the  Cowalitz,  rising  nearly  perpendicularly 
about  one  hundred  feet  high,  separated  from  the  adjacent 
highhillS)  and  very  much  in  the  form  of  Coffin-rock.  It  was 
covered  with  canoes  containing  the  dead.  These  deposito. 
ries  are  held  in  great  veneration  by  the  Indians.  They  are 
not  chosen  for  convenience,  but  for  security  against  raven- 
ous  beasts;  and  are  often  examined  by  the  friends  of  the  de- 
ceased, to  see  if  the  bones  of  their  dead  repose  in  undisturb- 
ed  quiet.  And  such  is  their  watchful  care,  that  the  anato- 
mist could  rarely  make  depredations  without  detection,  or 
with  impunity.  And  if  they  have  such  regard  for  their 
dead,  are  they  without  affection  for  their  living  relatives 
and  friends?  Are  they  "callous  to  all  the  passions,  but 
rage  ?"  Are  they  "  steeled  against  sympathy  and  feeling  ?'* 
And  have  they  no  happiness  except  what  "exists  in  the  vis- 
ionary dreaming  of  those,  who  never  contemplated  their  ac- 
tual condition  1"  Have  those,  who  charge  upon  the  Indian 
character  "  sullen  gloom,  want  of  curiosity  and  surprise  at 
what  is  new  or  striking,"had  extensive  personal  acquaintance 
with  many  different  Indian  nations  and  tribes ;  and  have  they 

!  gained  their  familiar  friendship  and  confidence  ?  I  am  firm 
in  the  belief,  that  the  character  of  unabused  and  uncontam- 
inated  Indians  will  not  lose  in  comparison  with  any  other 
nation  that  can  be  named  ;  and  the  only  material  difference 
between  man  and  man,  is  produced  by  the  imbibed  principles 

{of  the  christian  religion. 
Wishing  to  avail  ourselves  of  calm  weather  and  a  favor- 

lable  monn,  we  kept  on  our  way  in  the  evening  until  thick, 
enin^;  clouds  and  descending  rain  admonished  us  of  the  nc- 
cessity  of  finding  an  encamping  place  ;  and  while  doing  this, 

Iwe  ran  upon  a  log,  which  came  very  near  upsetting  us   in 

[deep  water.     But  by  two  men  getting  out  upon  the  log  and 

Ihfting  the  canoe,  with  much  exertion  we  got  off  safely. 

lAfter  passing  round  a  point  we  saw  a  light  on  the  north 


.7*.  ■■  <  ■.  ■■'■.■.!f '    ■•  .'  ***■■    '       i 


r:-;i 


I'll  .  1^     ■". 


156 


INDIAN  KINDNESS. 


shore,  to  which  we  directed  our  course  and  landed,  where 
we  found  a  small  company  of  Indians  encamped  under  a 
large  projecting  rock,  giving  shelter  from  the  storm.  They 
kindly  shared  their  accommodations  with  us,  and  my  tent 
was  pitched  under  the  concavity  of  the  rocks  ;  and  mats, 
«kins,  and  blankets  made  me  a  comfortable  bed  upon  small 
stones.  A  good  fire  and  refreshing  supper  obliviscited  the 
labors  of  the  day  and  dangers  of  the  evening. 
*'j-:  Arose  on  the  30th,  before  day,  and  although  it  was  a  rainy 
morning,  yet  it  was  sufficiently  calm  for  the  express  to  pros. 
ecute  their  voyage.  I  so  managed  my  mats  and  skins  as  to 
shield  myself  and  baggage  from  the  rain ;  but  the  men 
whose  business  it  was  to  propel  the  canoe  were  exposed  to 
the  chilling  rain ;  and  after  a  few  hours'  labor  and  exposure, 
we  arrived  at  the  place  where  the  May  Dacre  had  made  her 
harbor,  near  where  the  southern  section  of  the  Williamette 
discharges  its  waters  into  the  Columbia.  We  brought  our 
canoe  into  a  small  bay  indented  in  the  basaltic  rocks,  and 
drew  it  so  far  upon  the  shore,  that  it  was  thought  safe  with- 
out any  other  security  ;  and  all  hastened  to  kindle  a  fire  | 
in  a  thatched  building,  which  was  constructed  by  some  Kan. 
akas  for  the  accommodation  of  the  May  Dacre.  This  shel- 
ter  was  very  desirable  to  protect  us  from  the  storm  and  to  I 
give  the  men  an  opportunity  to  dry  their  clothes.  Wliilst 
we  were  preparing  and  eating  our  breakfast,  the  flowing  tide, 
which  swells  the  river  and  slackens  the  current,  but  does  not  j 
stop  it,  took  our  canoe  from  its  moorings,  and  drifted  it  a 
considerable  distance  down  the  river.  Some  Indians  whose  | 
residence  was  far  up  the  Cowalitz,  and  who  were  descend. 
ing  in  their  canoes  down  the  river,  saw  it,  and  returned  I 
with  it  before  we  knew  it  was  gone.  This  act  proved  them 
to  be  susceptible  of  kindness,  and  increased  my  confidence 
in  their  integrity.  It  was  of  too  much  importance  to  go| 
unrewarded.  The  canoe  contained  valuable  baggage,  ai 
we  should  have  been  left  without  any  means  of  going  on  curl 


ARRIVAL  AT  VANCOUVER. 


157 


way.  We  could  not  have  crossed  the  Willamette  nor  Co- 
lumbia river,  and  in  addition  the  wood  and  undergrowth  are 
next  to  impassable.  Before  the  middle  of  the  day,  the 
storm  abated,  and  the  remainder  of  our  way  to  Fort  Van- 
couver was  pleasant,  at  which  place  we  arrived  before  even- 
ing. We  were  less  than  three  days  in  accomplishing  the 
passage  from  one  fort  to  the  other,  and  these  were  the  only 
three  calm  days  for  a  long  time  before  and  after. 


•<*   .  . . 


■'  r  »■ 


■>*»•"    •V''  •  ''  •.. 


•}\ 


,.y^     ,, 


vr 


\,>    ;>*■.) 


5-/  » 


■t~- 


i  >' 


■t    ■■',' 


t  •v" 


•>•«;{ 


k^f; .' 


ifr.    T    't^ 


14 


-> . ) 


'V'» 


Ifr*: 


1^™, "-v'fc  .-r*  •       '.• 

'fm''''k'^  ■■"'■  ■ 

i"&(^-.:  .-V^^- 


i4'S*  ^^  *-v-  •■■■•■■ 


^t  fS. 


-§k'-^ 


168 


WINTER  aUABTEBS. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

iReview  of  jouriieyings— school— journey  up  the  Willamette— walk  upon 
the  pebbly  shore — falls- -settlement  on  the  Willamette— methoditi 
mission— epidemic— voyage  down  the  river— hospitality  of  Wanaxki- 
construction  of  his  house — Fort  William  on  the  Wappatoo  island— as- 
tonishing  thirst  for  ardeni  spirits^retum  to  Fort  Vancouver. 

Here,  by  the  kind  invitation  of  Dr.  McLaughlin,  and  | 
Welcomed  by  the  other  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Cora. 
pany,  I  took  up  my  residence  for  the  winter ;  intending  to  I 
make  such  excursions  as  the  season  may  admit  and  the  ob. 
ject  of  my  tour  may  demand.    As  this  is  the  principal  trad. 
ing  post  of  the  company,  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  it  I 
may  be  expected,  that  many  Indians  from  different  parts  of 
the  country  for  considerable  distance  around,  may  be  seen 
here  during  the  winter,  and  more  information  obtained  of  their 
character  and  condition  than  could  be  in  any  other  course  I 
could  pursue.    Here  also  traders  from  different  stations  west 
of  the  mountains  will  come  in  for  new  supplies,  of  whose  | 
personal  acquaintance  with  Indians  I  may  avail  myself. 

Sabbath,  November  lst»     By  invitation,  I  preached  teal 
congregation  of  those  belonging  to  this  establishment  who 
understand  English.     Many  of  the  laborers  are  French Ca] 
nadians  who  are  Roman  Catholics,  and  do  not  understandl 
English. 

This  trading  post  presents  an  important  field  of  labor;! 
fi>r  if  a  christian  influence  can  be  exerted  here,  it  may  tie| 
of  incalculable  benefit  to  the  surrounding  Indian  population.! 
Let  a  branch  of  Christ^s  kingdom  be  established  here, 
its  concomitant  expansive  benevolence  exerted  and  difTui 
ed,  then  this  place  would  be  a  centre,  from  which  divin 


ir»5'- 


REVIEW  OF  J0URNBYING8. 


159 


liffht  would  shine  out,  and  illumine  this  region  of  darkness. 
fhis  is  ^^  object  of  so  much  importance,  that  all  my  powers, 
gnd  energies,  and  time,  must  be  employed  for  its  accom- 
plishment ;  so  that  I  do  not  feel  that  I  have  a  winter  of  idle 
confinement  before  me,  but  enough  labor  which  needs  to  be 

Idone. 

Monday,  2d.  In  taking  a  review  of  my  journeyings  since 

1 1  left  my  home,  I  can  say,  though  long  in  time  and  distance, 

yet  it  has  been  pleasant  and  full  of  interest.     So  diversified 

I  has  been  the  country  through  which  I  have  passed,  and  so 

varied  the  incidents,  and  so  few  real  hardsiiips,  that  the 

time  and  distance  have  both  appeared  short.    Although  this 

mission  was  .thought  by  the  Secretaries  of  the  Board  to  be 

one  which  would  probably  be  attended  with  as  grer  t,  if  not 

greater,  dangers  and  deprivations  than  any  which  tliey  have 

Isent  into  any  part  of  the  world,  yet  my  sufferings  have  been 

small,  and  my  mercies  so  great,  that  I  can  say,  that  if 

[this  is  taking  up  the  cross  let  none  be  dismayed ;  for  surely 

Ichrist's  yoke  is  easy  and  his  burden  light.     I  had  thought 

Iffluch  on  the  prospect  of  having  an  opportunity  to  se^ 

|vhether  I  could  <<  rejoice  in  sufferings"   for  the  heathen, 

'and  fill  up  that  which  is  behind  of  the  afflictions  of  Christ 

lin  my  flesh  for  his  body's  sake,  which  is  the  church,"  but 

(the  protecting  providence  of  God  was  so  conspicuous  and 

bis  mercies  so  constant,  that  the  opportunity  did  not  appear 

ko  be  presented.    As  to  want,  I  experienced  only  enough  to 

{teach  me  more  sensihly  the  meaning  of  the  petition,  '*  give 

this  day  our  daily  bread  ;"  and  the  truth  was  '^omfort- 

|ing,  that  '*  the  Lord  giveth  to  all  their  meat  in  dut^  season." 

can  say,  "  hitherto  the  Lord  hath  helped  me."     I  do  not 

know  what  awaits  me,  but  I  still  trust  the  Lord  will  carry 

ne  through,  and  return  me  in  safety. 

I  am  very  agreeably  situated  in  this  place.  Half  of  a  new 

[louse  is  assigned  me,  well  furnished,  and  all  the  attendance 

Khich  I  could  wish,  with  access  to  as  many  valuable  books 


".  'I 


■■■■A- 
•       .'  t'." 


*i 


-  ..'•■••I 


>;. 


,^^;^ 


•-^i 


.      I 


;•  * 


^• 


160 


SCHOOL. 


88 1  have  time  to  read ;  and  opportunities  to  ride  out  for  ex. 
ercise,  and  to  see  the  adjoining  country,  as  I  can  desire ; 
and  in  addition  to  all  these,  and  still  more  valuable,  the  so. 
ciety  of  gentlemen  enlightened,  polished,  and  sociable. 
These  comforts  and  privileges  were  not  anticipated,  and 
therefore  the  more  grateful. 

There  is  a  school  connected  with  this  establishment  for 
the  benefit  of  the  children  of  the  traders  and  common  la. 
borers,  some  of  whom  are  orphans  whose  parents  were  at. 
tached  to  the  company  ;  and  also  some  Indian  children,  who 
are  provided  for  by  the  generosity  of  the  resident  gentlemen. 
They  are  instructed  in  the  common  branches  of  the  En. 
giish  language,  such  as  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  gram. 
mar,  and  geography  ;  and  together  with  these,  in  religion 
and  morality.  The  exercises  of  the  school  are  closed  with 
singing  a  hymn  ;  after  which,  they  are  taken  by  their  teach. 
er  to  a  garden  assigned  them,  in  which  they  labor.  Find. 
ing  them  deficient  in  sacred  music,  I  instructed  them  in 
singing,  in  which  they  made  good  proficiency,  and  developed 
oxcellent  voices.  Among  them  there  was  one  Indian  boy, 
who  had  the  most  flexible  and  melodious  voice  I  ever  heard. 

It  is  worthy  of  notice,  how  little  of  the  Indian  complei. 
ion  is  seen  in  the  half-breed  children.  Generally  they  have 
fair  skin,  often  flaxen  hair  and  blue  eyes.  The  children  of 
the  school  were  punctual  in  their  attendance  on  the  three 
services  of  the  sabbath,  and  were  our  choir. 

Monday,  Nov.  28d.  The  weather  being  pleasant,  though 
generally  very  rainy  at  this  season  of  the  year,  and  wish. 
ing  to  explore  the  country  up  the  Willamette  river,  I  era. 
braced  an  opportunity  of  going  with  a  Mr.  Lucier  and 
family,  who  were  returning  in  a  canoe  to  their  residence 
about  fifty  miles  up  that  river.  Doctor  McLaughlin  fur* 
nished  and  sent  on  board  a  large  stock  of  provisions,  three 
or  four  times  more  than  I  should  need,  if  nothing  should  oc 
cur  to  delay  us,  but  which  was  a  wise  precaution.     Wc  leA 


i 


.  T 


lf„ 


JOURNET  UP  THE  WILLAMETTE. 


161 


Fort  Vancouver  about  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  pro. 
ceeded  five  miles  down  the  Columbia  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Multnomah,  and  about  fifteen  up  the  Willamette  before  we 
encamped.  The  name  Multnomah,  is  given  to  a  small  sec- 
tion of  this  river,  from  the  name  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  who 
once  resided  about  six  miles  on  both  sides  from  its  conflu* 
ence  with  the  Columbia,  to  the  branch  which  flows  down 
the  southern  side  of  the  Wappatoo  island  ;  above  this  sec- 
tion it  is  called  the  Willamette.  The  tide  sets  up  this  river 
about  twenty  miles,  to  v/ithin  a  few  miles  of  the  falls,  and 
through  this  distance  the  river  is  wide  and  deep,  afibrding 
rrood  navigation  for  shipping. 

Tiie  country  about  the  Multnomah,  and  also  some  miles 
up  tiie  Willamette,  is  low,  and  much  of  it  is  orverflowed  in 
the  June  freshet ;  but  as  we  ascend,  the  banks  become  high- 
er, and  are  more  generally  covered  with  woods. 

Mr.  Lucier  told  me  he  was  well  acquainted  with  the 
country  around ;  tliat  a  little  back  from  the  banks  of  the 
river,  there  are  fine  tracts  of  rich  prairie,  sufficiently  inter- 
spersed with  woods  for  all  the  i)urposes  of  fuel,  fencing,  and 
lumber.  As  we  advanced,  a  chain  of  mountains,  running 
from  the  south-east  to  the  north-tvest,  and  which  crosses  the 
Columbia  river  below  Deer  island,  runs  some  distance  near 
and  below  the  falls  along  the  west  shores  of  this  river. 
There  are  probably  as  many  Indians  who  navigate  with 
their  canoes  this  river,  as  any  of  the  rivers  in  the  lower 
country  ;  many  of  whom  I  had  an  opportunity  of  observ- 
ing tcday  in  their  busy  pursuits,  the  strokes  of  whosc^  pad- 
dles broke  in  upon  the  general  silence.  One  company  over- 
took us  towards  evening,  and  encamped  with  us  upon  the 
elevated  shore  on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  Owing  to  the 
dampness  of  the  day,  and  previous  rains  we  had  some  dilH- 
culty  in  making  a  fire,  but  at  length  it  was  accomplished, 
and  the  wood  was  unsparingly   applied.     With   my  tent 

pitched  before  a  large  fire,  under  the  canopv  of  wide  branch- 

14* 


V        ."1 


■•:.> 


■  i 


)' 


162 


FALLS  OF  THE  WILLAMETTE. 


',  >'  ^ '  * 

i" 

if 

J      . 

•'  -  * 

H    , 


iv^;! 


i  • 


"!••,•/, 


ing  trees,  I  partook  of  the  stores  of  my  large  wicker  basket 
with  as  much  satisfaction  as  could  be  felt  in  any  splendid 
mansion.  The  blaze  of  dry  crakling  fir  threw  brilliancy 
around,  softened  by  the  dark  forest,  like  the  light  of  the  astral 
lamp  ;  and  the  burning  balsam  perfumed  the  air.  The  lat. 
ter  part  of  the  night,  I  suffered  more  with  the  cold  than  at 
any  time  in  all  my  journeying,  not  having  taken  with  me 
as  many  blankets  as  the  season  required. 

The  morning  of  the  24th  was  overcast  with  clouus,  and 
rendered  chilly  by  a  mist  settled  near  the  surface  of  the  riv. 
er,  and  which  collecting  in  a  beautiful  frosting  upon  the  sur- 
rounding trees,  exhibited  one  of  those  picturesque  fancies, 
which  works  of  art  may  imitate,  but  which  only  nature  can 
perfect.  Soon  after  resuming  the  labor  of  the  day,  we 
passed  several  basaltic  islands,  some  of  them  of  sufficient 
magnitude  to  enclose  a  few  acres,  others  only  rocky  points, 
between  which  the  current  was  strong,  requiring  much  ef. 
fort  to  make  headway.  Part  of  the  way  from  our  last  en- 
campment to  the  falls,  which  was  six  miles,  I  walked  along 
upon  the  pebbled  shore,  where  I  found  calcedony,  agate,  jas. 
per,  and  carnelian,  of  good  quality.  Two  miles  below  the 
falls,  there  is  a  large  stream  which  comes  in  from  the  south- 
east, called  Pudding  river.  Its  entrance  makes  a  strong 
current,  which  we  found  difficult  to  stem,  and  once  we  were 
drifted  back  in  spite  of  all  our  effi)rts ;  but  on  the  second 
attempt  wc  succeeded.  We  arrived  at  the  falls  of  the  Will- 
amette at  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  and  hired  eight 
Clough-c-wnll-hah  Indians  to  carry  the  canoe  by  the  falls, 
the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  and  proceeded  about  five  miles 
farther  and  encamped.  These  falls  with  the  scenery  around 
have  much  to  charm  and  interest.  The  river  above  spreads 
out  into  a  wide,  deep  basin,  and  runs  slowly  and  smoothly 
until  within  a  half  mile  of  the  falls,  when  its  velocity  in- 
creases, its  width  diminishes,  eddies  arc  formed  in  which  the 
water  turns  back  as  if  luih  to  make  the  plunge,  but  u 


i 

« 

• 

■    ;•   -i. 

'liii 

i^wykl 

t^ 

•»■■  p 


SETTLEMENT  ON  THE  WILLAMETTE. 


163 


•it! 


forced  forward  by  the  water  in  the  rear,  and  when  still  near- 
er it  breaks  upon  the  volcanic  rocks  scattered  across  the 
channel,  and  then  as  if  resigned  to  its  fate,  smooths  its  agi- 
tated surges,  and  precipitates  down  an  almost  perpendicular 
of  twenty  five  feet,  presenting  a  somewhat  whitened  column, 
[t  was  a  pleasant  day,  a mI  ^he  rising  mist  formed  in  the 
ravs  of  the  sun  a  beautiful  bow  ;  and  the  grass  about  the 
falls,  irrigated  by  the  descending  mist,  was  in  fresh  green. 
The  rocks  over  which  the  water  falls,  and  along  the  adja- 
cent shores,  are  amygdaloid  and  basalt.  The  opportunities 
here  for  water  power  are  equal  to  any  that  can  be  named. 
There  cannot  be  a  better  situation  for  a  factory  village  than 
on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  a  dry,  wide-spread  level  extends 
some  distance,  and  the  shores  form  natural  wharves  for 
shipping.  The  whole  country  around,  particularly  the  east 
side,  is  pleasant  and  fertile.  And  can  the  period  be  far  dis- 
tant, when  there  will  be  here  a  busy  population  ?  I  could 
hardly  persuade  myself  that  this  river  had  for  many  thou- 
sand years,  poured  its  waters  constantly  down  these  falls 
without  having  facilitated  the  labor  of  man.  Absorbed  in 
these  contemplations,  I  took  out  my  watch  to  see  if  it  was 
not  the  hour  for  the  ringing  of  the  bells.  It  was  two  o'clock 
land  all  was  still,  except  the  roaring  of  the  falling  water. 
I  called  to  remembrance,  that  in  the  year  1809  I  stood  by 
the  tails  of  Genesee  river,  and  all  was  still  except  the  roar 
of  the  cataract.  But  it  is  not  so  now  ;  for  Rochester  stands 
Inhere  I  tnen  stood. 

Wednesday,  25th.  As  soon  as  the  day  dawned,  we  went 
[on  board  the  canoe  and  pursued  our  way  up  the  river  which 
for  thirtv  miles  runs  from  a  westerly  direction,  and  at  half 
past  one,  we  arrived  at  McKey's  settlement.  This  and 
Jfirvis'  settlement  twelve  miles  above,  contain  about  twenty 
families.  The  men  are  mostly  Canadian  Frenchmen  with 
Indian  wives.  There  are  a  very  few  Americans.  The 
Frenchmen   were  laborers  belonging  to   the  Hudson  Bay 


• 


:^i'.-' 


V'r:V 


»>1'' 

^:<' 


<  ■ 


lik*i^ 


164 


FINE  COUNTRY METHODIST  MISSION. 


It 


Company,  but  have  left  that  service,  and  having  famiUes  they 
have  commenced  farming  in  this  fertile  section  of  country, 
which  is  the  best  of  the  Oregon  Territory  which  I  have  as 
yet  seen.  It  is  well  diversified  with  woods  and  prairies, 
the  soil  rich  and  sufficiently  dry  for  cultivation,  and 
at  the  same  time  well  watered  with  small  streams  and  springs. 
These  hunters  recently  turned  to  farmers,  cultivate  the  most 
common  useful  productions, — wheat  of  the  first  quality  to  as 
great  extent  as  their  wants  require.  A  grist  mill  is  just 
finished  which  adds  to  their  comforts.  They  have  a  com. 
mon  school  in  each  settlement  instructed  by  American 
young  men,  who  are  competent  to  their  business. 

The  forest  trees  are  mostly  oak  and  fir,  the  latter  grow. 
iig  remarkably  tall.  The  misletoe,  attached  to  the  body 
and  large  branches  of  the  oak,  is  very  common.  Beautiful 
dark  green  bunches  of  this  plant,  seen  upon  the  leafless 
trees  of  winter,  excites  admiration  that  its  verdure  should 
continue,  when  the  trees,  from  which  it  derives  its  life  and 
support,  are  not  able  to  sustain  their  own  foliage. 

I  rode  on  Thursday  the  26th  twelve  miles  to  the  upper  set. 
tiement.  and  was  delighted  with  the  country.  For  richness 
of  soil  and  other  local  advantages,  I  should  not  know  where 
to  find  a  spot  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  superior  to  this. 
I  saw  on  the  way  a  large  number  of  horses,  lately  brought 
from  California,  fattening  upon  the  green  luxuriant  grassof| 
I  he  prairies. 

Near  this  upper  settlement,  a  short  distance  up  the  river,  I 
the  methodist  church  of  the  United  States  have  established 
a  mission  among  the  Calapooah  Indians  of  whom  there  are 
but  a  few  remaining.     Rev.  Messrs.  Jason  Lee  and  Daniel 
Lee  are  the  ordained  missionaries,  and  Mr.  Shepard  teacher. 

Their  principal  object  of  labor,  for  the  present,  is  by 
means  of  schools.  They  had  at  the  time  of  my  visit  four- 
teen  Indian  children  in  their  school  supported  in  their  fam> 


>..k  . 

.  ■  ■  ',t  ■ 


EPIDEMIC. 


165 


ily,  and  the  prospect  of  obtaining  others  as  fast  as  they  can 
accommodate  them.  Their  facilities  for  providing  for  their 
school  are  good,  having  an  opportunity  to  cultivate  as  much 
excellent  land  as  they  wish,  and  to  raise  their  necessaries  of 
life  in  great  abundance  with  little  more  labor  than  what  the 
scholars  can  perform  for  their  support.  The  missionaries 
have  an  additional  opportunity  of  usefulness,  which  is  to  es- 
tablish a  christian  influence  among  the  people  of  these  in- 
fant settlements.  Mr.  J.  Lee  preaches  to  them  on  the  sab- 
bath, and  they  have  a  very  interesting  sabbath  school  among 
the  half-breed  children.  These  children  generally  have  fair 
complexions,  active  minds,  and  make  a  fine  appearance. 
The  prospect  is,  that  this  mission  may  lay  a  foundation  for 
extensive  usefulness.  There  is  as  yet  one  important  desid. 
eratum — these  missionaries  have  no  wives.  Christian  white 
women  are  very  much  needeed  to  exert  their  influence  over 
Indian  females.  The  female  character  must  be  elevated, 
and  until  this  is  done  but  little  is  accomplished ;  and  females 
can  have  access  to,  and  influence  over,  females  in  many  de- 
partments of  instruction  to  much  better  advantage  than 
men.  And  the  model,  which  is  furnished  by  an  intelligent 
and  pious  family  circle,  is  that  kind  of  practical  instruction, 
I  whether  at  home  or  abroad,  which  never  fails  to  recommend 
the  gospel. 

At  the  time  of  my  continuance  in  this  place,  an  epidemic 
prevailed  among  the  Indians,  of  which  several  persons  died. 
In  some  respects  it  was  singular.  The  subjects  of  the  com- 
plaint were  attacked  with  a  severe  pain  in  the  ear  almost  in- 
I  stantaneously,  which  soon  spread  through  the  whole  head 
with  great  heat  in  the  part  affected ;  at  the  same  time  the  pulse 
became  very  feeble  and  not  very  frequent — soon  the  extremi- 
ties became  cold  and  a  general  torpor  spread  through  the  whole 
system  except  the  head — soon  they  were  senseless,  and  in  a 
short  period  died.     In  some  cases  the  attack  was  less  severe, 


■  1 


%./&•■• 


.k-f: . 


i-'i^ 


.'.^-A. ,. 


:'  ^i^  ^ 


^,  <  -Sr: 


N  • 


11' k- 
I 


''    'I.      ■■ 


166 


HOSPITALITY  OP  WANAXKA. 


and  the  patient  lingered,  and  after  some  days  convalesced,  or 
continued  to  sink  until  death  closed  his  earthly  existence. 

Friday,  Nov.  27th,  I  rode  out  with  Mr.  J.  Lee  several 
miles  south  to  see  more  of  the  country.  The  same  rich, 
black  soil  continued,  furnishing  nutritive  grass  in  abun. 
dance ;  and  also  the  same  diversity  of  wood  and  prairie. 
This  valley  is  very  wide  east  and  west,  generally  about  fifty 
miles ;  and  far  more  extended,  north  and  south. 

Towards  evening  we  attended  the  funeral  of  an  Indian 
boy,  who  belonged  to  the  school,  and  who  died  last  night 
with  the  epidemic.  Most  of  the  children  of  the  school  and 
sabbath  school  attended,  and  conducted  with  propriety. 

On  Saturday  I  returned  to  McKey's  settlement  to  fulfil 
an  appointment  to  preach  to  the  inhabitants  on  the  sabbath. 
I  put  up  with  Mr.  Edwards  who  is  temporarily  attached  to 
the  mission,  but  now  teaching  school  in  this  settlement. 

Almost  the  whole  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  settlement 
assembled  on  the  sabbath,  and  made  a  very  decent  coDgre. 
gation ;  but  not  more  than  half  could  understand  English. 
After  service  I  was  called  to  see  a  Mr.  Carthre,  who  was 
taken  severely  with  the  epidemic.  I  bled  him,  which  gave 
him  immediate  relief,  and  applied  a  blister,  and  as  I  after- 
ward learned,  he  recovered. 

Early  Monday  morning  of  the  30th,  McKey  furnished 
me  with  two  young  Indians  to  take  me  in  a  canoe  to  the 
falls,  where  we  arrived  safely  at  three  o'clock  in  the  after. 
noon.  Here  I  engaged  two  Indians  belonging  to  a  small 
village  of  Claugh-e-walUhah  Indians,  who  have  a  permanent 
residence  a  little  below  the  falls.  Wanaxka,  the  chief, 
came  up  to  the  falls,  where  I  was  about  to  encamp  alone  for  I 
the  night,  and  invited  me  toahare  his  hospitality  at  his  house. 
I  hesitated  what  to  do,  not  that  I  would  undervalue  his  kind. 
ness,  but  feared  such  annoyances  as  might  prevent  my  rest. 
On  the  other  hand  there  was  every  appearance  of  a  cold,  I 
heavy  storm,  very  little  wood  near,  which  I  could  procure 


*  - 1  *■ 


i^- 


>:■■.: 


CONSTBUCnON  OF  HIS  HOUSE. 


167 


for  a  fire  with  only  my  hatchet,  and  I  should  be  alone,  ex- 
posed to  ravenous  wild  beasts — the  latter  consideration, 
however,  I  scarcely  regarded.  But  believing  it  would  please 
the  chief,  should  I  accept  his  invitation,  I  went  with  him 
to  his  dwelling,  which  was  a  long  permanent  building  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  up  an  elevation  of  one  hundred  feet, 
and  near  which  were  several  other  buildings  of  nearly  the 
same  dimensions.  Besides  the  family  of  the  chief,  there 
were  two  other  families  in  the  same  building,  in  sections 
about  twenty  feet  apart,  separated  from  each  other  by  mats 
hung  up  for  partitions.  Their  houses  are  built  of  logs  split 
into  thick  plank.  These  Indians  do  not  sink  any  part  of 
their  buildings  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  as  some  of 
the  Indians  do  about  and  below  the  Cascades.  The  walls 
of  the  chief's  house  were  about  seven  feet  high,  the  roofs 
are  more  steeply  elevated  than  what  is  common  in  the  Uni- 
ted States,  made  of  the  same  materials  with  the  walls,  only 
the  planks  are  of  less  thickness*  They  have  only  one  door 
to  the  house,  and  this  is  in  the  centre  of  the  front  side. 
They  have  no  chimneys  to  carry  off  the  smoke,  but  a  hole 
is  left  open  above  the  fire-place,  which  is  in  the  centre  of 

I  each  family's  apartment.  This  answers  very  well  in  calm 
weather,  but  when  there  is  much  wind  the  whole  building 
becames  a  smoke  house.  The  fire-place  of  the  chief's  apart- 
ment was  sunk  a  foot  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  eight 
feet  square,  secured  by  a  frame  around,  and  mats  spread 
upon  the  floor  for  the  family  to  sit  upon.    Their  dormitories 

(arc  on  the  sides  of  the  apartment,  raised  four  feet  above  the 
floor,  with  moveable  ladders  for  ascent ;  and  under  them  they 

Istow  away  their  dried  fish,  roots,  berries,  and  other  effects. 

iThere  was  not  an  excess  of  neatness  within,  and  still  less 

Iwithout.  The  Indians  in  the  lower  country,  who  follow 
Ashing  and  fowling  for  a  livelihood  arc  far  from  being  so 

Ineat  as  those  in  the  upper  country  who  depend  more  upon 

|thc  chase^    The  latter  live  in  moveable  lodges  and  frequent^ 


••  • 

« 


.-    •'      i 


168 


FOBT  WILLIAM. 


PIP-* 


ly  change  their  habitations.  But  these  Indians  were  also 
kind.  They  gave  me  most  of  one  side  of  the  fire-place 
spread  down  clean  new  mats,  replenished  their  fire,  and 
were  ready  to  perform  any  service  I  should  wish.  I  i^t 
them  fill  and  boil  my  tea-kettle,  after  which  I  spread  out  my 
stores  so  bountifully  provided  by  Doct.  McLaughlin  and 
performed  my  own  cooking.  During  the  evening,  the  chief 
manifested  a  disposition  to  be  sociable,  but  we  had  but  a 
very  little  language  common  to  us  both,  besides  the  language 
of  signs.  The  next  thing,  when  the  hour  of  rest  arrived, 
was  to  fortify  myself  against  a  numerous  and  insidious  en. 
emy.  I  first  spread  down  the  cloth  of  my  tent,  then  my 
blankets,  and  wrapped  myself  up  as  securely  as  I  could,  and 
should  have  slept  comfortably,  had  I  not  too  fully  realised 
my  apprehensions. 

As  soon  as  daylight  appeared,  on  December  1st,  I  left  the  j 
hospitable  habitation  of  Wanaxka,  and   with  my  two  In. 
dians  proceeded  down  the  Willamette  about  sixteen  miles  I 
before  we  landed  for  breakfast.     I  find  a  great  difiference  in 
going  with  or  against  the  current  of  these  rivers.    Since 
going  up  this  river,  the  number  of  swans  and  geese  had  great. 
ly  multiplied  upon  the  waters  and  along  the  shores.    Theiil 
noise,  and  especially  that  of  the  swans,  echoed  through  I 
woods  and  prairies.    The  swan  is  a  beautiful  and  majestic  I 
fowl ;  its  large  body,  long  neck,  clear  white,  and  majestic 
movements  place  it  among  the  very  first  of  the  winged  tribe. 
The  common  seal  are  numerous  in  this  river.     It  is  veryl 
difiicult  to  shoot  them  with  the  best  rifles,  on  account  ofl 
their  diving  with  extreme  suddeness  at  the  flash.     I  bad  a 
fair  opportunity  to  shoot  one  to-day,  but  with  one  splash  hel 
was  out  of  sight  and  did  not  again  appear.     When  I  camel 
to  the  north-western  branch  of  the  Multnomah,  I  proceededl 
down  four  miles  to  Fort  William  on  the  Wappatoo  island,! 
an  establishment  which  belongs  to  captain  Wyeth  and  Com-f 


I.: 


LOVE  OF  ARDENT  SPIBITS. 


169 


m/m'^ 


^V 


'■■  •-••^•^^ '  .h. 


pany.  The  location  is  pleasant  and  the  land  around  is  of 
the  first  quality. 

Here  some  months  ago  a  man  named  Thornburgh  was 
killed  by  another  named  Hubbard,  both  from  the  United 
States.  A  controversy  arose  between  them  about  an  Indi- 
an woman.  Thornburgh  was  determined  to  take  her  from 
Hubbard  even  at  the  risk  of  his  own  life.  He  entered  H.'s 
cabin  in  the  night  armed  with  a  loaded  rifle.  H.  saw  him 
and  shot  him  through  the  breast  and  pushed  him  out  of  the 
door.  Thornburgh  fell  and  expired  almost  instantly.  A 
self-created  jury  of  inquest  aat  upon  the  body  of  Thorn- 
burgh, and  brought  in  a  verdict,  that  he  lost  his  life  by  the 
hand  of  Hubbard  in  self-defence. 

In  Thornburgh  there  was  an  instance  of  a  most  insatia- 
ble appetite  for  ardent  spirits.  Mr.  Townsend,  the  orni- 
thologist,  whom  I  have  before  mentioned,  told  me  he  was 
encamped  out  for  several  days,  some  miles  from  Fort  Wil- 
Ham,  attending  to  the  business  of  his  profession ;  and  that 
in  addition  to  collecting  birds,  he  had  collected  rare  speci- 
mens of  reptiles,  which  he  preserved  in  a  keg  of  spirits. 
Several  days  after  he  was  in  this  encampment,  he  went  to 
bis  keg  to  deposit  another  reptile,  and  found  the  spirits 
gone.  Mr.  Townsend,  knowing  that  Thornburgh  had  been 
several  times  loitering  about,  charged  him  with  having 
drank  off  the  spirits.  He  confessed  it,  and  pleaded  his  thirst 
as  an  apology. 

On  Wednesday  the  2d,  I  returned  to  Fort  Vancouver  well 
pleased  with  my  excursion.  The  weather  was  generally 
pleasant,  free  from  winds  and  heavy  storms.  There  are  no 
high  mountains,  nor  hills  which  would  not  be  capable  of 
cultivation)  and  when  this  valley  shall  be  filled  with  inhab. 
itants  and  farms  spread  out  in  high  cultivation,  it  will  be 
second  to  only  a  few  parts  of  the  world.  I  found  the  peo- 
ple of  the  fort  in  their  usual  active  business  pursuits,  and  I 

received  a  renewed  cordial  welcome. 
15 


■■m- 


-V-V 


«■' 


i-t.i^ 


> ''  ' 


'.Mi' 


.■"  '-  A 


i 


^■tk 


1^ ''..•' 


170 


SERVICES  ON  THE  SABBATH. 


nc : 


fk; 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Services  on  the  sabbath — obstacles  to  the  gospel — discouraging  case— 
i;<anner  of  spending  time — description  of  Vancouver  fur  and  farming 
establishment— garden  productions — lumber— commerce — peltries- 
system  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company— waste  of  life — hardships  of  a 
hunter's  life — their  perseverance— christian  principle— worldly  principle. 

Sabbath,  6th.  I  attended  three  services,  morning,  after- 
noon, and  evening,  and  expect  to  continue  them  during  my 
residence  in  this  place.  Through  the  week  there  will  be  but 
few  opportunities  to  do  much  for  the  spiritual  benefit  of  the 
common  laborers ;  for  in  this  high  northern  latitude,  the 
days  in  the  winter  are  so  short  that  the  men  are  called  out 
to  their  work  before  day,  and  continue  their  labor  until  near 
dark ;  and  as  their  families  do  not  understand  English,  I 
have  no  direct  means  of  benefiting  them. 

There  is  another  circumstance  which  operates  against 
the  prospects  of  benefiting  many  of  the  population  here,— 
the  common  practice  of  their  living  with  their  families 
without  being  married.  They  do  not  call  the  women  with 
■whom  they  live,  their  wives,  but  their  women.  They  know 
they  are  living  in  the  constant  violation  of  divine  prohibi. 
tion,  and  acknowledge  it,  by  asking  how  they  can  with  any 
consistency  attend  to  their  salvation,  while  they  are  living 
in  sin,  and  are  not  willing  to  break  off  their  sins  by  righ- 
teousness.  I  urged  the  duty  of  entering  into  the  marriage 
Delation.  They  have  two  reasons  for  not  doing  so.  One 
18,  that  if  they  may  wish  to  return  to  their  former  homes 
sand  friends,  they  cannot  take  their  families  with  them. 
The  other  is,  that  these  Indian  women  do  not  understand 


THE  HUDSON  BAY  COMPANY. 


171 


the  obligations  of  the  marriage  covenant,  and  if  they,  as 
husbands,  should  wish  to  fulfil  their  duties,  yet  their  wives 
might  through  caprice  leave  them,  and  they  should  be  bound 
by  obligations,  which  their  v  ives  would  disregard. 

There  is  no  doubt,  but  that  this  subject  is  attended  with 
real  difficulties,  but  are  they  insurmountable  ?  Has  God 
given  a  law,  which  if  obeyed  would  not  secure  our  greatest 
and  best  good  ?  Is  it  preferable  "  to  enjoy  the  pleasures  of 
sin  for  a  season,"  to  denying  ourselves  of  all  ungodliness, 
and  taking  up  the  cross  by  which  eternal  salvation  ma 
be  obtained  ?  And  what  would  the  enjoyment  the  whole 
world  can  give,  profit  a  man,  if  he  should  lose  his  sou!  ? 
But  I  could  not  believe,  that  if  these  men  should  marry  the 
women  with  whom  they  live,  and  do  all  they  could  to  in- 
struct them,  and  treat  them  with  tenderness  and  respect, 
that  there  would  be  many  cases  of  their  leaving  their  hus- 
bands. And  whatever  might  be  the  results,  they  had  better 
suffer  wrong,  than  do  wrong.  If  the  Holy  Spirit  should 
convince  them  of  sin,  what  would  they  not  do  to  flee  from  the 
wrath  to  come  ?  But  their  social  comforts  are  so  strongly 
bound  with  the  cords  of  sin,  that  they  feel,  as  they  express 
their  own  case,  that  it  is  useless  to  make  any  eflfbrts  to  ob- 
tain  spiritual  freedom,  until  they  shall  be  placed  in  diflferent 
circumstances. 

As  much  of  my  time,  through  the  week,  was  occupied  in 
study,  and  in  digesting  facts  connected  with  the  natural  sci- 
ence of  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the 
character  and  condition  of  the  Indians,  which  came  under 
my  observation  at  diflferent  times  and  places ;  and  also  that 
which  I  should  ol)tain  from  persons  whose  testimony  could  be 
relied  upon  and  which  came  under  their  personal  observation, 
I  shall  give  them  without  particular  dates. 

I  have  already  mentioned  my  agreeable  disappointment, 
in  finding  so  many  of  the  comforts  of  life,  atdifierent  trad- 
ing posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  ;  also  I  have  given. 


-J  .  *  -  I 

#.  ■  f     ■       • 

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172 


THE  HUDSON  BAY  COMPANY. 


a  brief  description  of  the  local  situation  of  Fort  Vancou. 
ver.  These  were  taken  from  such  observations  as  I  could 
make  in  a  hasty  view,  as  I  was  prosecuting  my  journey  to 
the  shores  of  the  Pacific  ocean.  This  e?ta'f  li  Uiment  was 
commenced  in  the  year  1824.  It  being  -i  cof?:'!"y  that 
the  gentlemen,  who  are  engaged  in  transacti^^g  ihe  business 
of  the  Company  west  of  the  mountains,  and  their  laborers, 
should  be  better  and  less  precariously  supplied  with  the  ne. 
cessaries  of  life,  than  what  game  furnishes ;  and  the  ex. 
pense  of  transporting  suitable  supplies  from  England  being 
too  great ;  it  was  thought  important  to  connect  the  business 
of  farming  with  that  of  fur,  to  an  extent  equal  to  their  ne. 
cessary  demands,  and  as  this  fort  is  the  central  place  of 
business  to  which  shipping  come,  and  from  which  they 
depart  for  different  parts  of  the  north- west  coast,  and  to 
which,  and  from  which,  brigades  of  hunting  parties  come 
and  go ;  the  principal  farming  business  was  established  here, 
and  has  been  progressing  until  provisions  are  furnish. 
ed  in  great  abundance.  There  are  large  fertile  prairies, 
which  they  occupy  for  tillage  and  pasture,  and  forests  for 
fencing  materials  and  other  purposes.  In  the  year  1635,  j 
at  this  post,  there  were  four  hundred  and  fifty  neat  cattle, 
one  hundred  horses,  two  hundred  sheep,  forty  goats, 
and  three  hundred  hogs.  They  had  raised  the  same  year 
five  thousand  bushels  of  wheat,  of  the  best  quality  I  ever 
saw ;  one  thousand  three  hundred  bushels  of  potatoes ;  one 
thousand  of  barley,  one  thousand  of  oats,  two  thousand  of  j 
peas,  and  a  large  variety  of  garden  vegetables.  This  est!. 
mate  does  not  include  the  horses,  horned  cattle,  &c.  and 
produce  raised  at  other  stations.  But  little  however,  is  done 
at  any  of  the  others,  excepting  Colville  the  uppermost  post 
on  the  northern  branch  of  the  Columbia.  The  garden  of  I 
this  station  enclosing  about  five  acres,  is  laid  out  with  regu. 
larity  and  good  taste.     While  a  large  part  is  appropriated 


I- 


ii?  '• 


THE  HUDSON  HAY  COMPANY. 


173 


to  the  common  esculent  vegetables,  ornamental  plants  and 
flowers  are  not  neglected.  Fruit  of  various  kinds,  such  as 
apples,  peaches,  grapes^  and  strawberries,  for  the  time  they 
have  been  introduced,  flourish  and  prove  that  the  climato 
and  soil  are  well  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  horticulture. 
Various  tropical  fruits  such  as  figs,  oranges,  and  lemons, 
have  also  been-  introduced,  and  grow  with  about  the  same 
care  as  they  would  require  in  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia^ 

In  connection  with  this  business  and  farming  establish- 
ment, the  Company  have  a  flour.mill  worked  by  ox  power, 
which  is  kept  in  constant  operation  and  produces  flour  of 
excellent  quality  ;  and  a  saw-mill  with  several  saws,  which 
is  kept  in  operation  most  of  the  year;  This  mill,  though 
large,  does  not  with  its  several  saws  furnish  more  lumber 
than  a  common  mill  would,  with  one  saw,  in  the  United 
States.  There  being  no  pine  below  the  Cascades,  and  but 
verv  little  within  five  hundred  miles  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river,  the  only  timber  sawed  in  this  mill  is  fir  and 
oak.  Besides  what  lumber  is  used  in  the  common  business 
about  this  station,  one  and  sometimes  two  ship  loads,  are 
sent  annually  to  Oahu,  Sandwich  islands,  and  is  there  called 
pine  of  the  north-west  coast.  Boards  of  fir  are  not  so  daw 
rable,  when  exposed  to  the  weather,  as  those  of  pine,  ner  so 
easily  worked.  One  half  of  the  grain  of  each  annual 
growth,  is  very  hard,  and  the  other  half  soft  and  spungy, 
which  easily  absorbs  moisture  and  causes  speedy  decay. 
There  is  a  bakery  here,  in  which  two  or  three  men  are  in 
constant  employment,  which  furnishes  bread  for  daily 
use  in  the  fort,  and  also  a  large  supply  of  sea  biscuit  for  the 
shipping  and  trading  stations  along  the  north-west  coast. 
There  arc  also  shops  for  blacksmiths,  joiners  and  carpen- 
|lers,  and  a  tinner. 

Here  is  a  well-regulated  medical  department,  and  a 
jhospital  for  the  accommodation  of  the  sick  laborei*s,  in 

which  Indians  who  are  laboring  under  any  diflicuU  and  dan^ 
15* 


*   • 

*           V 

■  .    ".■■■* 

.   '  _  • 

.» . . . 

'  •' 

.  •  *'  "*• 

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■.•'v'y-- 

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r 


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r  y'f  •iJ't  *'^  "■^'    "* 


174 


THE  HUDSON  BAY  COMPAKY. 


gerous  diseases  are  received,  and  in  most  cases  liave  gratu. 
itous  attendance. 

Among  the  large  buildings  there  are  four  for  the  trading 
department.  One  for  the  Indian  trade,  in  which  arc 
deposited  their  peltries ;  one  for  provisions  ;  one  for  goods 
opened  for  the  current  year's  business,  that  is,  to  sell  to  tiitlr 
men  and  to  send  off  to  various  fur  stations  ;  and  another 
for  storing  goods  in  a  year's  advance.  Not  less  than  a  ship 
load  of  goods  is  brought  from  England  annually,  and  aiwavb 
at  least  one  in  advance  of  their  present  use,  so  that  if  any 
disaster  should  befall  their  ship  on  her  passage,  the  business 
of  the  Company  would  not  have  to  be  suspended.  By  this 
mode  of  management,  there  is  rarely  less  than  two  ship 
loads  of  goods  on  hand  most  of  the  time.  The  annual  ship 
arrives  in  the  spring,  takes  a  trip  to  Oahu,  during  the  sum. 
mer  freighted  with  lumber  to  the  island,  and  bringing  back 
to  Vancouver  salt  and  other  commodities,  but  generally  noi 
enough  for  ballast ;  and  in  the  last  of  September,  or  in  Oc- 
tober, she  sails  for  England  with  the  peltries  obtained  dur* 
ing  the  preceding  year. 

The  fur  business  about  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  west, 
is  becoming  far  less  lucrative  than  in  years  past ;  for 
flo  extensively  and  constantly  have  every  nook  and 
corner  been  searched  out,  that  Ix  uver  and  other  valu- 
able fur  animals  are  becoming  very  scarce.  It  is  ra- 
tional  to  conclude  that  it  will  not  be  many  years  before  this 
business  will  not  be  worth  pursuing  in  the  prairie  country 
south  of  the  50*^  of  north  latitude ;  north  of  this,  in  tlic 
colder  and  more  densely  wooded  regions,  the  business  will 
not  probably  vary  in  any  important  degree. 

But  very  few  Americans  who  have  engaged  in  the  fur 
business  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains  have  ever  succcedwi 
in  making  it  profitable.  Several  companies  have  sustained 
great  loss,  and  generally  owing  to  their  ignorance  of  the 
country » and  the  best  mode  of  procedure.    The  lIudiH)D 


THE  Hl'DSON  BAY  COMPANY, 


175 


Bay  Company  have  reduced  their  business  to  such  a  system, 
that  no  one  can  have  the  charge  of  any  important  transac- 
tions without  having  passed  through  several  grades  of  less 
important  business,  which  constitutes  several  years'  appren- 
ticeship. Their  lowest  order  are  what  they  call  servants, 
(common  laborers.)  All  above  these  are  called  gentlemen, 
l)ut  of  different  orders.  The  lowest  class  are  clerks,  then 
chiet'*^^  lerks  ;  next  traders,  and  chief-traders ;  factor.'^,  and 
chief.factors ;  and  the  highest,  governors.  Of  the  last 
office  there  are  only  two  ;  one  resides  in  London,  who  is  at 
the  he -d  of  the  whole  business  of  the  Company,  and  the 
other  resides  in  Montreal,  Upper  Canada.  There  ire  only 
two  chief.factors  west  of  the  mountains,  John  McLaugh- 
lin, Esq.  and  Duncan  Finlayson,  Esq.  and  with  them  are 
associated  in  business  several  chief-traders  and  traders,  and 
chief-clerks  and  clerks.  The  salaries  of  the  gentlemen  are 
proportioned  to  the  stations  they  occupy.  This  being  their 
system  of  carrying  on  business,  no  important  enterprise  is 
ever  intrustr  d  to  any  inexperienced  person. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  comparatively  few  of  all 
those  who  engage  in  the  fur  business  about,  and  west,  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  ever  return  to  their  native  land,  and  to 
their  homes  and  friends.  Mr.  P.  of  Fort  Walla  Walla 
told  me,  that  to  keep  up  their  number  of  trappers  and  hunt- 
ers near,  but  west,  of  the  mountains,  tlu  were  under  the 
necessity  of  sending  out  recruits  annually,  about  one-third 
of  the  whole  number.  Captain  W.  has  said,  that  of  more 
than  two  hundred  who  had  been  in  his  employment  in  the 
course  of  three  years,  only  between  thirty  and  forty  were 
known  to  be  alive.  From  this  data  it  may  be  seen  that  the 
life  of  hunters  in  these  far  western  regions  averages  abouC 
three  years.  And  with  these  known  facts,  still  hundreds 
and  hundreds  are  willing  to  engage  in  the  hunter's  life,  and 
expose  themselves  to  hardships,  famine,  dangers,  and  death. 
The  estimation   has   been  mudo  from  sources  of  correct 


4    ,. 


'  .*••■  ■ 


4vf 

■   V  ■  • 


176 


CftBlSTIAN  PRINCIPLE. 


mm 


^H 


!>  ' 


It 


'♦  \. 


information,  that  there  are  nine  thousand  white  men  in  the 
north  and  in  the  great  west,  engaged  in  the  various  depart, 
ments  of  trading,  trapping,  and  hunting.  This  number  in- 
cludes Americans,  Britons,  Frenchmen,  and  Russians,  and 
it  is  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  since  white  men 
penetrated  far  into  the  forests,  in  their  canoes  freighted  with 
goods,  coasting  the  shores  of  the  remote  lakes,  and  follow, 
ing  up  the  still  more  remote  rivers,  to  traffic  with  the  In. 
dians  for  their  furs,  not  regarding  hunger,  toils,  and  dangers. 
These  enterprises  have  been  extended  and  pursued  with  avid. 
ity  until  every  Indian  nation  and  tribe  has  been  visited  bv 
the  trader. 

What  is  the  power  of  that  principle  which  draws  thou. 
sands  from  their  country,  and  their  homes,  a.id  all  tiie  ties 
of  kindred  ?  Is  the  love  of  gain  and  hope  of  wealth  the 
motive  by  which  courage  and  daring  are  roused,  and  dan. 
gers  defied  ?  And  shall  Christianity  be  a  less  powerful  prin. 
ciple  ?  Has  it  only  furnished  twenty  or  thirty  missiona. 
ries,  whose  sole  motive  is  to  carry  the  gospel  to  the  many 
ten  thousand  Indians  in  the  wide  extended  country,  over 
which  are  raijging  nine  thousand  traders,  trappers,  and 
hunters  ?  Are  these  the  only  evidences  the  church  of  God 
can  give  of  sincerity  in  her  professions  of  attachment  to 
Christ,  and  to  the  interests  of  the  immortal  soul  ?  It"  8o, 
then  christians  surely  must  sutfer  in  comparison  with  world. 
ly  men,  and  our  heavcn-descendo''  religion,  if  judged  of  by 
its  restricted  fruits,  must  Ix^  deemed  unworthy  of  its  natno 
and  origin.  But  this  want  of  christian  enterprise,  charac- 
terized by  the  late  period  in  which  it  is  begun,  and  curried 
forward  with  such  slow  and  faltering  steps,  is  not  only  lo 
be  lamented  as  a  blot  upon  the  christian  name,  but  ineom- 
parably  more  is  if  to  Iki  lamented  that  in  consequence,  ^ven- 
eration after  generation  «f  the  heathen,  to  say  nothing  ol 
the  tlionsands  who  are  ttafficking  among  them,  aie  let't  in 
their  ignorance  of  t!ie   Savior  to  perish  etenmllv*     How 


CHRISTIAN  FBINCIPLE. 


177 


•  ■■  f 


jn  in  the 
IS  depart, 
limber  in. 
ians,  and 
vhite  men 
;hted  with 
id  follow. 
h  the  In. 
i  dangers, 
with  avid, 
visited  by 

aws  thou. 
,11  the  ties 
ivealth  the 

and  dan- 
.rerful  prin. 
r  missiona. 

the  many 
ntry,  over 
ppers,  and 
rcli  of  God 
ichn»ent  to 

111  ?    h  so, 

wiih  world. 
[Iped  of  by 

its  nam*' 
^c,  cliarac- 
ind  carriod 
lot  only  to 
hut  incom- 
lencf.  fien- 
I  nothing  of 

aie  M't  in 
iHv.     How 


\on<f  shall  it  be,  that  when  an  adventurous  man  forms  a  plan 
for  traffic  in  far  distant  wilds,  in  a  short  time  a  company  is 
formed  with  a  capital  of  fifty  thousand  dollars,  and  a  hun- 
dred men  are  found  to  face  hardships  and  dangers,  and  they 
are  away  ?  But  when  a  christian  heart  is  stirred  up  to  go 
and  carry  the  gospel  to  some  far  distant  Indian  nation,  he 
may  plead  and  plead  for  four  men  and  two  thousand  dol. 
lars,  and  perhaps  plead  in  vain.  But  it  is  said  a  great  deal 
is  DOW  doing  for  the  heathen  world.  How  much  ?  As  much 
as  to  give  Jive  ministers  to  the  United  States.  All  that  is  do. 
ing  for  the  conversion  of  the  heathen  is  not  more  than  what 
it  would  cost  to  build,  and  man,  and  defray  the  expenses,  of 
one  ship  of  war. 


.'1 


Ik.V     '■*•  ■■  * ; 


Ik  n.-  •  •' 


I**,- ', 


.   ':  f  •    .1 


178 


INDIAN  POPULATION. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Indian  population — diseases— mortality— attributed  to  cultivation  of 
the  soil — destitute  of  medical  science — holidays — customs  at  home- 
customs  of  the  Indians — resemblance  to  Jewish  customs  in  punishinent 
— marriage  contracts— condition  of  the  females— slavery — division  into 
tribes— two  points  of  dissimilariiy— sacrifices- language. 


I  have  found  the  Indian  population  in  the  lower  counfrv. 
that  is,  below  the  fulls  of  the  Columbia,  far  less  than  I  ha(i 
expected,  or  what  it  was  when  Lewis  and  Clarke  made  thoir 
tour.  Since  the  year  1829,  probably  seven-eightiis  if  not,  as 
Doct.  McLaughlin  believes,  nine-tenths,  have  been  swept 
away  by  disease,  principally  by  fever  and  ague.  The  ma. 
lignancy  of  this  disease  may  have  been  increased  by  predis. 
posing  causes,  such  as  intemperance,  and  tiie  general  yprcad 
of  venerea,  since  their  intercourse  with  sailors.  But  a  more 
direct  cause  of  the  great  mortality  was  their  mode  of  treat. 
nient.  In  the  burning  stage  of  the  fever  they  plunged 
themselves  into  the  river,  and  continued  in  the  water  until 
the  heat  was  allayed,  and  rarely  survived  the  cold  stace  I 
which  followed.  So  many  and  so  sudden  were  the  deaths 
which  occurred,  that  the  shores  were  strewed  with  the  iiii. 
buried  dead.  Whole  and  large  villages  were  depopulattfi 
and  some  entire  tribes  have  disappeared,  the  few  remainiii!;| 
persons,  if  there  were  any,  uniting  themselves  with  other 
tribes.  This  great  mortality  extended  not  only  from  the 
vicinity  of  the  Cascades  to  the  shores  of  tlte  Pacific,  hut  tar 
north  and  south  ;  it  is  said  as  far  south  as  California.  The 
fever  and  ague  was  never  known  before  the  year  1829,  and 
Doct.  McLaughlin  mentioned  it  as  a  singular  circumslanceJ 
that  this  was  the  year  in  which  fields  were  plougheu  for  thel 


HOLIDAYS. 


179 


first  time.  He  thought  there  must  have  been  some  connec- 
tion between  breaking  up  the  soil  and  the  fever.  I  inform- 
od  him  that  the  same  fever  prevailed  in  the  United  States, 
about  the  same  time,  and  in  places  which  had  not  before 
lieen  subject  to  the  complaint.  The  mortality  after  one  or 
two  seasons  abated,  partly  for  the  want  of  subjects,  and  part- 
Iv  from  medical  assistance  obtained  at  the  hospital  of  Fort 
Vancouver.  The  mortality  of  Indians  and  their  sufferings 
under  diseases  are  far  greater  thu'x  they  would  be,  if  they 
were  furnished  with  a  knowledge  of  medicine.  Indian  doc- 
tors are  only  Indian  conjurers.  But  I  shall  have  occasion 
to  say  more  upon  this  subject  when  I  describe  Indian  cus- 
toms. 

December   25th,      The   holidays  arc   not  forgotten  in 
these  far  distant  regions.     From  Christmas  until  after  New 
Years,  all  labour  is  suspended,  and  a  general  time  of  indul- 
gence and  festivity  commences.     Only  this   once  in   the 
vhole  year  are  ardent  spirits  given  to  the  laborers,  when 
[they  have  a  free  allowance,  giving  them  the  opportunity  to 
exhibit  fully  what  they  would  do,  if  spirits  were  easily  and 
always  accessible.    On  Clu-istmas  morning  they  dress  them- 
selves in  their  best  attire,  accelerated  movements  are  seen 
in  every  direction,  and  preparation  is  made  for  dinners, 
whicli  are  sure  to  be  furnished  in  their  first  style,  and  grcat- 
lest  profusion  ;  and  the  day  passes  in  mirth  and  hilarity. 
IBut  it  does  not  end  with  the  day ;  for  th'^  passions  and  ap- 
Ipctites  pampered  t*   ougli  the  day,  prepare  the  wuy  for  the 
Inight  tu  be  spent  with  dancing,  and  the  loud  and  hoisterouB 
^augh,  shouts,  and  revelry,  consume  the  hours  designed  for 
rest.     They  continue  these  high-strung  convivialities  un- 
pl  they  pass  the  portals  of  the  new  year,  when  labor  and 
jtoii  take  their  place. 

Such  too  often  are  the  customs  of  Miosc  who  profess  to  be 
nser  and  better  people.  The  expiring  year  vanishes, 
inidst  the  noise  and  revels  of  many,  who  proless  by  such 


••  •    »• 


.Vfl 


rl      1 


.1 


;!! 


^m:-:^r 


•A'    t 

: ,  •* '  •'  ■ 

m't 


180 


CUSTOMS  AT  HOME. 


methods  to  honor  the  birth  of  our  Savior,  and  theintroduc. 
tion  of  that  only  religion,  which  requires  perfect  purity  and 
perfect  order.  And  too  many  give  as  they  profess,  but  a 
decent  honor  and  respect  to  tiiose  festival  days,  when  from 
house  to  house  of  their  best  or  more  indifferent  friends,  the 
wine  is  circulated  until  they  become  genteelly  inebriated. 
And  is  it  so,  that  these  days  are  baptized  with  the  name  of 
holy  days  ?  The  piety  of  primitive  christians  undoubtediv 
led  them  to  observe  the  supposed  anniversary  of  our  Sav. 
ior's  birth,  but  whenever  such  uncommanded  observances  are 
greatly  abused,  the  same  piety  will  exert  itself  to  bring  about 
a  reformation ;  and  if  this  cannot  be  done,  then  to  abolish 
the  custom  altogether.  Hezekiah  king  of  Judah,  in  the 
case  of  the  brazen  serpent,  which  was  preserved  as  a  nie. 
morial  of  the  salvation  wrought  instiamentaliy  by  it  for 
those  who  were  bitten  by  the  fier}'  serpents,  destroyed  it 
when  the  people  idolized  and  burned  incense  to  it.  Anda^ 
the  holidays  are  so  generally  abused  and  are  become  days 
of  revelry,  all  friends  of  t  iety  should  cease  from  their  obser. 
vancc  and  do  all  in  their  power  to  obviate  the  evils. 

The  question  whetiier  there  is  any  evidence  that  the  In. 
diana  arc  descended  from  tlic  Jews,  though  frequently  and 
largely  discussed,  has  not  been  satisfactorily  answered. 
From  all  the  personal  observations  I  could  make,  and  clfortg 
at  examination,  I  could  not  obtain  any  thing  conclusive  up. 
on  the  s'ioject,  but  am  very  much  induced  to  believe  their 
origin  will  remain  as  problematical  in  future,  as  it  has  been 
infimc  past.  There  are  some  things  in  their  belief  and 
customs  which  favor  the  idea,  that  they  are  of  Jewish  de. 
scent.  Their  ontir'i  freedom  from  idolatry  is  a  peculiar 
chamcteristic,  by  which  th^y  are  distinguished  from  all  oth 
er  heathen.  It  will  be  remeinbered,  that  the  propensity  ol 
the  Jews  to  idolatry  was  entirely  subdued  from  the  time 
their  captivity  in  Babylon.  Among  the  Indians  boyoi 
the  mountains,  I  found  no  idols,  nor  any  appearance  of  id 


[oVP 


lESBMBLANCE  TO  JEWISH  CUSTOMS. 


181 


'k' 


.» 


atry.  They  believe  in  only  one  God,  and  all  their  worship, 
so  far  as  they  have  any,  is  offered  to  Him,  or  as  they  would 
say  to  the  Great  Spirit.  They  believe  in  the  immortality 
fif  the  soul,  and  future  rewards  and  punishments.  They 
have  no  sacrifices,  their  minds  are  perfectly  open  to  receive 
any  truth  in  regard  to  the  character  and  worship  of  God. 
They  l»ave  their  superstitions  which  I  shall  mention  in 
another  place. 

Their  custom  of  punishing  the  crime  of  murder,  if  it  does 
not  differ  from  that  of  all  other  heathen  nations,  yet  co- 
incides with  what  was  the  custom  of  the  Jews.  The  near- 
est relatives  of  the  murdered  person  are  the  "  avengers  of 
blood,"  the  executioners,  or  "pursuers  of  blood."  They 
kill  the  murderer,  if  they  can  find  him  ;  and  in  their  own 
tribe  or  nation,  they  do  not  extend  the  punishment  to  any 
other  person,  so  that  "  the  fathers  are  not  put  to  death  for 
the  children,  neither  are  the  children  put  to  death  for  the 
lathers ;  every  man  is  put  to  death  for  his  own  sin."  As 
the  Jews  did  not  regard  other  nations  with  the  same  be- 
nevolence as  their  own,  so  the  Indians  make  a  distinction 
between  their  own  tribe  or  nation,  and  others.  If  one  is 
killed  by  a  person  belonging  to  another  nation,  if  they  can- 
not obtain  and  put  the  miirdcrcr  to  death,  they  will  take  the 
hfe  of  some  of  tiie  relatives  of  the  murderer ;  or,  if  they 
jail  of  this,  some  one  of  tr.e  nation  must  atone  for  the  cr'me. 
And  if  this  cannot  be  done  immediately,  the  debt  of  blood 
will  still  be  demanded,  though  years  may  pass  away  l)eforc 
it  is  cancelled. 

There  is  also  some  resemblance  in  their  marriage  con- 
tracts.  The  negotiation  is  commenced,  if  not  completed, 
with  the  parents  of  the  intended  bride,  as  in  the   case  of 

ac's  r.arrying  Rebekab.     Abraham  directed  his  servant 

jto  jTo  to  his  kindred  and  take  a  wife  for  his  son  Isaac.     Ho 

m\i,  and  when  God  had  shown  him  that  Rebekah  was  the 

ppointed  person,  he  first  consulted  her  father  and  brother 
16 


I 


■f\r.t: 


i>f 


.'1 


•  ■  f: 


■     «     mUL- 


Ul«lP-.'5 


|it^.*f.>^ 


182 


RESEMBLANCE  TO  JEWISH  CUSTOMS. 


I  •    !'^    'r    >^'  .  '  •      '     •:    ,       ,'  , 

I  "it  •■     •   . ,  T     - 


^r.: 


-■? 


and  when  their  approbation  was  obtained  Rebekah's  appro. 
val  closed  the  contract,  and  presents  were  made  to  the  sever. 
al  members  of  the  family.  The  customs  of  the  Indians  are 
substantially  the  same.  The  bridegroom  negociates  with  the 
parents,  and  the  approbation  of  the  daughter  being  obtain. 
ed,  the  stipulated  commodities  are  paid  and  the  man  takes 
his  wife.  But  as  much  or  more  is  given  in  dowry  to  the 
daughter.  The  presents  and  dowry  are  proportioned  to  the 
rank  and  wealth  of  the  contracting  parties.  Wanaxka,  the 
first  chief  of  the  Clough-e-wall-hah  Indians,  has  refused 
more  than  one  hundred  dollars  for  a  beautiful  daughter, 
whom  I  saw  when  I  shared  the  hospitality  of  his  house.  A 
chief  at  the  La  Dalles  has  refused  two  horses  and  six  blank, 
ets,  together  with  several  other  articles  of  smaller  value.! 
It  is  not  however  to  be  understood  that  marriage  is  a  mere 
mercenary  transaction  ;  for  fancy  and  choice  have  tlieirin. 
fluence  with  them,  as  well  as  among  more  refined  people. 

Another  resemblance  between  the  Indians  and  the  im 
may  be  traced  in  the  estimation  in  which  their  females  arc! 
held.     No  doubt  the  degradation  of  Indian  women  is  to  1 
attributed  in  a  large  degree  to  iheir  heathenism,  and  that  ud] 
uncivilized  and  savage  state  in  which  we  find  them ;  yet  ig 
their  respective  occupations  we  find  some  features  which  ar 
not  dissimilar.     Among  those  nations  and  tribes  who  doi 
possess  slaves,  the  women  cut  and  prepare  wood  for  fire, 
well  as  food  for  their  families,  they  pack  and  unpack  \l 
horses,  set  up  and  take  down  lodges,  gather  roots  and  berrie 
for  food,  and  dress  the  skins  for  clothing,  and  make  then 
into  garments.    So  Jewish  women  drew  water  for  the  flock 
and  camels,  and  watched  over  them  ;  they  gleaned  the  field 
in  harvest ;  they  also  performed  the  work  of  grinding  in  tli 
mill.    Our  Savior  refers  to  this,  when  he  foretold  the  destruij 
tion  of  Jerusalem.     "Two  women  shall  be  grinding  in  ill 
mill,  the  one  shall  be  taken  and  the  other  left." 

Slavery  was  suffered  among  the  Jews,  and  undoubtc 


service  v 
have  no  s 
live  in  tb 
termarry 
one  cruel 
ovfa  child 
fthich  th( 
heads,  is, 
«ho  have 
Polygat 
ly  the  sarr 
the  Jews, 
land  put  aw 
loccasions. 
Icharacter, 
|otten  as  ac 

Another 


RESEMBLANCE  TO  JEWISH  CUSTOMS. 


183 


<:;'y 


for  the  same  reasons  that  polygamy  was,  and  the  putting 
awav  their  wives  by  writing  a  bill  of  divorcement.     While 
the  great  law-giver  did  not  at  once  abolish  the  practice,  he 
brouglit  it  under  modified  restrictions.      The  stealing  and 
selling  a  man  was  punishable  with  death.    If  a  man  lx)ught 
a  Hebrew  servant,  the  time  of  his  service  was  not  to  exceed 
six  years.      Intermarriages  took  place  between  these  ser. 
vants  and  the  families  of  their  masters ;  and  the  betrothed 
maid  was  to  be  dealt  with  after  the  manner  of  daughters. 
The  same  restrictions  were  not,  however,  enjoined  in  relation 
to  those  bondmen  who  were  bought  of  the  heathen,  until  the 
days  of  the  prophets,  when  tiiey  were  commanded  to  break 
every  yoke  and  let  the  oppressed  go  free.     So  also  slavery 
exists  in  a  modified  form  among  the  Indians  west  of  the 
moantains,  not  generally,  but  only  in  the  nations  in  the 
lower  country.     They  are  bought ;  taken  prisoners  in  war ; 
taken  in  payments  of  debts  if  they  are  orplians  of  the  debtor ; 
bv  selling  themselves  in  pledges.    They  are  put  to  the  same 
[service  which  women  perform  among  those  Indians  who 
!  have  no  slaves.     They  are  generally  treated  with  kin  Incss ; 
ve  in  the  same  dwelling  with  their  masters,  and  often  in- 
jtermarry  with  those  who  are  free.     They  are  exempt  from 
one  cruel  practice  which  their  masters  inflict  upon  their 
own  children,  the  flattening  of  their  heads.     The  reason, 
which  those  who  own  slaves  assign  for  flattening  their 
heads,  is,  that  they  may  be  distinguished  from  their  slaves 
I  who  have  round  heads. 

Polygamy  is  practised  among  the  Indians,  and  with  near- 
lly  the  same  regulations  with  which  it  was  practised  among 
Ithe  Jews.  Though  they  do  not  write  bills  of  divorceuient 
land  put  away  their  wives,  yet  they  send  them  away  on  slight 
loccasions.  But  this  brings  no  disgrace  upon  the  woman's 
Icharacter,  and  generally  she  is  soon  married  to  another,  and 
jol'ten  as  advantageously. 

Another  resemblance  between  the  Javfn  and  the  Indians 


.V'- 


^f'y.t 


' 


164 


RB8BMBLANCE  OF  JKWISH  CUfTOXS. 


mi- 


;3 


is  fjfie  division  of  their  nations  into  tribes.  The  tribes  of 
the  children  of  Israel  were  the  descendant?  of  distinguished 
families  and  their  government  was  patriarchal.  The  tribes 
among  the  Indians  are  constituted  much  in  the  same  wav. 
Some  important  personage  gains  an  influence,  numbers  be. 
came  attached  to  him ;  and  though  they  do  not  separate 
from  their  nation,  nor  at  once  become  a  distinct  tribe,  yet 
they  are  denominated  a  band,  and  these  bands  Uk  many  cases 
grow  up  into  tribes. 

There  are  two  considerations  which  should  not  be  passed 
over,  and  which  are  against  the  evidences  of  the  Indians 
being  of  Jewish  origin.  One  is,  that  they  have  no  sacrifices. 
In  this  they  not  only  differ  from  that  nation,  but  also  from 
all  other  nations  of  the  earth,  who  are  not  under  the  influ. 
ence  of  the  light  of  the  gospel.  If  they  are  of  Jewish  de. 
scent,  it  is  strange  that  they  have  not  continued  the  prac 
tice  of  offering  up  sacrifices,  and  especially  when  there  is 
so  general  a  propensity  among  men,  particularly  among  the 
heathen,  to  resort  to  sacrifices  to  atone  for  their  sins. 
Whatever  of  truth  there  may  be  in  the  statements  that  the 
Indians  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  offer  up  sacrifices, 
yet  I  have  not  found  the  least  traces  of  evidence  that  the 
Indians  of  the  west  do  so. 

Tlie  other  consideration  is  the  want  of  evidence  in 
their  language*  There  are  several  entirely  distinct  laD> 
guages  among  the  different  Indian  nations.  These  Ian. 
guages  are  more  entirely  distinct  than  the  different  Ian. 
guages  of  Europe ;  for  in  all  the  different  languages  of  £u. 
rope  there  are  words  derived  from  Latin,  common  to  each,  and 
which  prove  a  common  relation.  Now,  if  the  Indians  are 
descended  from  the  Jews  and  of  course  once  had  a  common 
language,  the  Hebrew,  then,  notwithstanding  their  depart- 
ure by  different  dialects  from  their  original,  might  it  not  be 
expected  that  there  would  still  remain  words  and  idioms  in. 
dicative  of  their  common  origin.     But  it  is  not  so,  as  may 


BESEMB LANCE  TO  JEWISH  CUSTOMS. 


185 


lie  seen  in  a  vocabulary  of  a  few  languages  which  I  shall 
subjoin.  In  their  languages  there  are  some  words  in  com- 
mon with  Latin,  Greek  and  Hebrew,  but  these  are  used  in  an 
entirely  different  sense  from  that  in  which  they  are  used  in 
those  languages.  As  far  as  it  respects  language,  the  proof 
of  a  Jewish,  or  even  of  a  common  origin,  is  not  only  doubt- 
ful but  highly  improbable. 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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(716)I79-4S03 


li,';'-  kV.  -}J  ■•'•,■■ ',  .'  •  ■ 


186 


ANIMALar 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

The  various  animals  beyond  the  mountaini. 

It  is  generally  supposed  that  wild  animals,  in  all  Indian 
countries  and  especially  in  the  far  regions  beyond  the  moun. 
tains,  are  very  numerous ;  but,  excepting  buffalo  within 
their  range,  which  is  becoming  more  and  more  circum- 
scribed, game  is  scarce.  In  giving  an  account  of  animals 
beyond  the  mountains,  I  shall  not  go  into  a  minute  descrip. 
tion  of  those  which  are  familiar  to  all  classes  of  persons. 

There  are  four  varieties  of  bears,  though  it  is  supposed 
there  are  only  two  distinct  species.  This  is  a  point  I  shall 
not  attempt  to  decide.  These  are  the  white,  grizzly,  brown, 
and  black.  The  white  bear  is  ferocious  and  powerful,  but 
their  numbers  are  so  small  in  the  region  of  the  Oregon  coun- 
try, that  they  are  not  an  object  of  dread.  But  the  grizzly 
bear  is  far  more  numerous,  more  formidable,  and  larger, 
some  of  them  weighing  six  or  eight  hundred  pounds.  Their 
teeth  are  formed  for  strength,  and  their  claws  are  equally 
terrific,  measuring  five  inches  ;  and  their  feet  which  are  as- 
tonishingly  large,  exclusive  of  their  claws,  measuring  not  far 
from  ten  inches  long,  and  five  inches  wide.  There  are  some 
even  larger.  The  shades  of  their  color  vary  from  very 
light  gray  to  a  dark  brown,  always  retaining  the  grizzly 
characteristic.  Among  a  multitude  of  their  skins  which  1 
saw,  there  were  some  beautifully  dappled,  and  as  large  as 
buffalo  robes.  These  were  held  in  high  estimation.  Their 
hair  and  fur  is  longer,  finer,  and  more  abundant  than  any 
of  the  other  classes.  They  depend  more  upon  their  strength 
than  speed  for  taking  their  prey,  and  therefore  generally 


♦,      • .     't 


ANIMALS. 


187 


lurk  in  willows  or  other  thickets,  and  suddenly  seize  upon 
any  animal  which  may  be  passing  near  by.  The  moun- 
tain men  tell  as  many  wonderful  stories  about  their  encoun- 
ters  with  these  prodigies  of  strength  and  ferocity,  as  some 
mountain  travelers  tell  us  about  constant  battles  with  the 
Blackfeet  Indians,  and  starvation,  and  eating  dogs.  Now 
I  may  be  considered  deficient  in  a  flexible  and  fruitful  im- 
agination, if  I  do  not  entertain  my  readers  with  07ie  bear 
story,  after  having  traveled  thousands  of  miles  over  prairies 
and  mountains,  through  valleys,  ravines,  and  amongst  caves 
and  chasms.  But  ae  I  did  not  myself  have  any  wonderful 
encounters,  I  must  borrow  from  a  gentleman  of  established 
good  character  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  who 
gave  me  an  account  of  a  case  which  he  witnessed.  He 
and  a  number  of  others  were  traveling  in  canoes  up  the 
Athabasca  river,  and  on  a  morning  one  of  their  hunters 
shot  upon  the  shore  a  large  cub  of  a  grizzly  bear,  which 
they  took  on  board  a  canoe,  and  of  which  they  made  their 
supper  on  encamping  for  the  night.  While  seated  around 
their  fire  in  conversation,  the  supposed  mother  of  the  slain 
cub  approached,  sprang  across  the  circle  and  over  the  fire, 
and  seized  the  hunter  who  had  shot  the  cub,  threw  him 
across  her  shoulder,  and  made  off  with  him.  They  all  laid 
hold  of  their  rifles  and  pursued,  but  feared  to  fire  lest  they 
should  hurt  their  companion.  But  he  requested  them  to 
fire,  which  one  of- them  did  and  wounded  the  bear.  She 
then  dropped  the  first  offender  and  laid  hold  of  the  last  in 
like  manner  as  the  first,  but  more  roughly,  and  accelerated 
her  departure.  There  was  no  time  to  be  lost,  and  several 
fired  at  the  same  time,  and  brought  her  to  the  ground.  The 
last  man  was  badly  wounded,  but  recovered.  The  "  great 
medicine"  in  this  case  I  siiall  not  attempt  to  explain,  but  let 
every  one  account  for  it  in  their  own  way. 

The  brown  bear  is  less  ferocious,  more  solitary  and  not 
highly  esteemed  either  fbr  food  or  for  its  skin.     The  black 


K  •■.- 


►c""^' 

;.«*^'i  < 


•in- 


■1' ' 


^.^v*:v, 


Vfr- 


''M'¥i^ :'. 

'  .■•'^.'•*:i'  • .  • 

.  ' '"      -  '■'  ■ 


. "    ft'l 


E>i<' 


188 


ANIMALS. 


iiiifP'<?c>  ^'^:*•.v- 
ivE-.'.-.""--^  '■'.. 


f.. 


'  v'* ;  «,►•, 


,i'^.%- 


ill  :■'■'••:. 


bear  is  somewhat  similar  in  its  habits  to  the  brown,  but 
lives  more  upon  vegetable  food  and  is  more  in  estimation 
for  its  pure  black,  well-coated  skin. 

The  raccoon  is  somewhat  numerous  in  parts  of  this  coun. 
try,  more  especially  towards  the  ocean.  I  could  not  discov. 
er  any  difference  in  their  appearance  and  habits  from  those 
in  the  United  States. 

The  badger  inhabits  this  country,  and  is  found  on  the  plains 
west  of  the  great  chain  of  mountains.  Having  given  a 
short  description  of  this  animal  when  passing  through  the 
parts  where  it  was  seen,  it  is  not  necessary  in  this  place  to 
make  any  further  remarks. 

The  weasel,  the  polecat,  the  woodchuk,  the  mink  and 
muskrat,  are  common,  though  not  numerous,  in  this  coun- 
try, and  not  differing  from  those  on  the  eastern  part  of  this 
continent,  do  not  need  description. 

The  wolverine  is  said  to  inhabit  these  western  regions, 
of  which  I  saw  one  in  the  Salmon  river  mountains,  whicn 
my  Indians  killed.  The  animal  I  saw  differed  in  several 
particulars  from  the  description  given  by  Richardson.  It 
was  one  foot  nine  inches  from  its  nose  to  the  insertion  of 
its  tail ;  its  body  not  large  in  proportion  to  the  length,  short 
legs,  small  eyes  and  ears  ;  its  neck  short  and  large  as  the 
head,  and  its  mouth  shaped  like  the  dog.  Its  color  was 
uniformly  a  dark  brown,  nearly  black ;  and  its  fur  was  some 
more  than  an  inch  long  and  coarse.  I  had  no  opportunity 
of  observing  its  habits. 

The  hedgehog  is  common  in  all  parts  of  the  Oregon  Ter. 
ritory,  does  not  differ  from  those  found  in  other  parts  of 
America,  and  for  its  quills  is  held  in  high  estimation  by  the 
Indians,  It  is  interesting  to  see  with  how  much  ingenuity, 
and  in  how  many  various  forms,  the  Indians  manufacture 
these  quills  into  ornamental  work,  such  as  moccasons,  belts, 
and  various  other  articles. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  squirrels — two  of  which  I  have 


■(  .V. 


ANIMALS. 


189 


already  described.  The  third  is  the  gray,  which  differs 
from  those  in  the  United  States  in  being  larger  and  its  color 
more  beautifully  distinct.  I  saw  many  of  their  skins  made 
into  robes  and  worn  by  the  Indians  about  the  Cascades. 

Of  the  feline,  or  cat  kind,  there  are  panther,  the  long 
tailed  tiger  cat,  the  common  wild  cat,  pnd  lynx.  The  pan. 
ther  is  rarely  seen,  and  the  difference  of  climate  and  coun- 
try produces  no  change  in  its  ferociousness  and  other  habits, 
from  those  found  in  other  parts  of  America.  The  long 
tailed  tiger  cat  is  more  common,  very  large,  and  of  a  dull 
redish  color.  Also  the  common  wild  cat  is  often  seen.  It 
is  much  smaller,  its  tail  is  short  and  its  color  is  like  the 
above  named.  I  can  only  name  the  lynx,  as  they  did  not 
come  under  my  observation.  It  is  in  the  lower,  wooded 
country  they  are  found,  and  the  Indians  say  they  are  nu. 
raerous. 

There  are  five  different  species  of  wolves ;  the  common 
I  gray  wolf,  the  black,  blue,  white,  and  the  small  prairie  wolf. 
The  common  gray  wolf  iS  the  same  as  others,  found  in  the 
United  States,  and  has  all  its  common  habits.  The  black 
wolf,  which  I  did  not  see,  as  described  by  Mr.  Ermitinger, 
a  gentleman  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  is 
larger  than  the  gray  and  more  noble  in  its  appearance,  and 
is  the  strongest  of  the  wolf  kind.  Those  which  the  same 
[gentleman  called  the  blue  wolf,  are  but  rarely  seen,  as  also 
Ithe  white,  and  so  far  as  their  habits  are  known,  do  not  ma- 
jterially  differ  from  others. 

The  small  prairie  wolf  is  the  most  common,  and  bears  the 
reatest  resemblance  to  the  dog,  and  has  been  called  the 
dog.  It  differs  from  the  dog  in  all  the  peculiarities  of 
lilio  wolf  kind  as  much  as  the  others  do.  It  is  as  uniform 
|d  its  color,  size,  and  habits.  They  are  uniformly  of  a  dull 
edish  gray,  never  particolored ;  the  hair  is  always  long, 
blended  with  a  brown  fur  at  its  roots  ;  and  like  other  wolves, 
py  are  always  prowling  and  cowardly.     They  are  more 


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190 


ANIMALS. 


'fail  aB-..-jj- "iw    »> 


B?  »•  Id 


1;..  . 


I'ik'iiif'  i  ''■''     ■■?■■'    •■"     ' 
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numerous  than  the  other  kinds,  and  in  considerable  numbers 
follow  the  caravans  to  feed  upon  the  offals.  Although  we 
frequently  heard  them  howl  and  bark  around  our  encamp, 
ments,  yet  they  never  disturbed  our  rest. 

Notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  said  about  the  immense 
number  of  wolves  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  they  are 
far  less  numerous  than  might  be  expected.  I  do  not  make 
this  assertion  solely  from  the  fact  that  I  saw  or  heard  only 
a  few,  but  from  the  testimony  of  those,  whose  long  residence 
in  this  country  entitles  them  to  credit. 

The  fox  which  is  so  generally  dispersed  through  the  world 
is  found  here  in  three  different  kinds ;  the  red,  gray,  and 
silver.  They  do  not  differ  from  those  found  east  of  the 
mountains.  The  silver  gray  fox  is  scarce,  and  highly  es. 
teemed,  and  takes  the  highest  rank  among  the  furs  of  com. 
merce.  Its  color  is  dark,  sometimes  nearly  black,  the  ends 
of  the  hairs  tipped  with  white,  and  in  addition  to  the  un. 
commonly  fine  texture,  the  fur  presents  a  beautiful  glossy  ap. 
pearance. 

Martins  are  not  abundant;  some  are  found  about  the 
head  waters  of  the  Columbia  in  woody  mountains,  but  they 
are  more  numerous  and  of  superior  quality  farther  north. 

The  inoffensive,  timorous  hare,  in  three  different  species, 
abounds  in  all  parts  of  this  country.  Its  natural  instinct 
for  self  preservation,  its  remarkably  prominent  eye,  its  large 
active  ear,  and  its  soft  fur,  are  its  characteristics  in  this, 
as  in  other  regions.  The  three  species  are,  the  large  com. 
mon  hare,  which  is  generally  known,  the  small  chief  hare 
with  large  round  ears  ;  and  a  very  small  species,  but  five  or 
six  inches  long,  with  pointed  ears.  If  the  first  named  dif. 
fers  in  any  particular  from  those  in  the  United  States,  it  is 
in  its  manner  of  running,  and  its  speod.  Its  bound  is  not 
regular,  but  its  motions  arc  an  alternate  running  and  I 
leaping  at  an  almost  incredible  distance,  and  with  such 
swiftness  that  I  frequently  mistook  it,  at  first  view,  for  the 


'hi 


ANIMALS. 


191 


prairie  hen,  which  I  supposed  was  flying  near  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  Its  flesh  when  used  for  food,  is  tender  and 
of  a  pleasant  flavor. 

The  only  dress  which  many  of  the  Indians  have  to  pro- 
tect them  from  the  cold,  is  made  of  the  skins  of  these  ani- 
mals, patched  together  into  a  scanty  robe. 

There  is  a  small  species  of  the  marmot  of  which  I  have 
seen  no  description  in  any  work  on  natural  history,  which 
is  probably  peculiar  to  this  country.  It  is  called  by  the 
Nez  Perces,  eluet ;  is  five  inches  long  from  the  tip  of  its 
nose,  exclusive  of  its  tail,  which  is  two  in  length — its  body 
is  one  inch  and  a  third  in  diameter,  the  colour  is  brown, 
beautifully  intermixed  with  small  white  spots  upon  its  back. 
jthas  eight  long  hairs  projecting  from  the  nose,  on  each  side, 
and  two  over  each  eye.  Its  habits  resemble  those  belonging 
to  its  genus.  It  is  remarkably  nimble  in  its  movements. 
The  Indians  esteem  its  flesh  a  luxury. 

Among  the  animals  of  the  deer  kind,  elk  is  the  largest 
and  most  majestic.  It  exists  in  considerable  numbers  east 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  less  numerous  on  tlm  west 
side.  It  combines  beauty  with  magnitude  and  strength, 
and  its  large  towering  horns  give  it  an  imposing  appear- 
ance. Its  senses  are  so  keen  in  apprehension,  that  it  is 
difficult  to  be  approached ;  and  its  speed  in  flight  is  so 
great,  that  it  mocks  the  chase.  Its  flesh  resembles  beef, 
but  less  highly  flavored,  and  is  much  sought  for  by  the  Indi- 
ans and  hunters.  Its  skin  is  esteemed,  and  much  used 
in  articles  of  clothing  and  for  moccasons. 

I  saw  no  moose.  It  is  said  they  are  found  farther  north, 
in  the  more  cold  and  woody  regions. 

There  are  three  species  of  deer ;  the  red,  the  black-tailed, 

and  the  common  American  deer.     Like  those   found  in 

other  countries,  they  are  of  a  mild,  innocent,  timid  aspect ; 

elegant  in  form,  with  slender,  nervous  limbs.    When  any 

I  object  or   noise  alarms  them,  they  throw  up  their  heads, 


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192 


ANIMALS. 


erect  and  move  their  ears  in  every  direction  to  catch  the 
sounds  ;  snuff  up  the  wind,  and  bound  off  with  great  ce. 
lerity.  The  deer  west  of  the  mountains  are  more  lean  and 
the  flesh  less  inviting  than  those  found  in  the  United  States. 
This  may  arise  from  the  nature  of  the  food  to  which  they 
are  confined,  having  less  opportunity  for  browsing,  and  es. 
pecially  upon  such  shrubbery  as  are  congenial  to  their  na- 
tures,  there  being  but  very  few  of  the  sacchariferous  kinds 
found  in  their  country. 

The  red  deer  are  generally  found  about  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains  and  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia. 

The  black-tailed  deer,  while  they  are  of  a  dusky  sallow 
color,  like  the  common  American  deer,  are  somewhat  dark. 
er,  and  their  tails  are  larger  and  nearly  black,  which  gi\es 
them  their  name.  Their  eyes  are  large  and  prominent, 
their  ears  are  also  large  and  long,  and  judging  from  those  I  j 
saw,  they  are  smaller  than  the  common  deer.  When  they 
move  faster  than  a  walk,  they  bound. 

The  antelope,  which  I  have  already  described,  are  numer. 
ous  in  the  upper  and  prairie  country. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  the  beaver,  so  noted  for 
its  valuable  fur,  for  its  activity,  and  perseverence, — ^its  so. 
cial  habits,  its  sagacity  and  skill  in  constructing  its  vil- 
lage, and  preparing  its  neat  and  comfortable  dwellings,  is 
an  inhabitant  of  this  country.  It  has  been  sought  with 
avidity  and  has  been  a  source  of  wealth  to  many,  but  to  multi. 
tudes,  of  poverty,  misery  and  death.  It  would  be  difficult  to  | 
sum  up  the  woes  of  the  last  class. 

Its  flesh  is  very  good  for  food,  and  the  trapper  and  I 
hunter  depend  almost  entirely,  while  in  its  pursuit,  upon  it 
for  subsistence.  Although  I  ate  several  times  the  flesh  of 
the  beaver,  yet  I  discovered  no  evidence  of  the  truth  of  the 
assertion  often  made,  that  while  the  flesh  of  the  fore  parts  is 
of  tlie  quality  of  land  animals,  its  hind  parts  are  in  smell 
and  taste  like  flsh«    I  should  think  it  would  require  much 


are  numer- 


ANIMALS. 


193 


assistance  from  imagination  to  discover  the  fish  taste. 
Here  also  the  otter  is  found,  and  is  somewhat  numerous, 
^nd  next  to  the  beaver  is  sought  with  diligence  by  the  hunt- 
er and  trader.  The  shades  of  its  color  vary  from  a  light,  to 
a  deep,  beautiful  brown.  The  fur  is  rich  and  in  great  de- 
mand, and  there  is  none  found  in  any  country  of  better 
quality  than  those  skins  I  saw  at  different  trading  posts  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  Its  formation  is  adapted  to 
land  and  water,  having  short  and  muscular  legs,  so  articu- 
lated as  that  it  can  bring  them  horizontal  with  its  body,  and 
use  them  as  fins  in  the  water ;  and  its  toes  are  webbed  like 
water  fowl.  It  subsists  principally  upon  fish,  frogs,  and 
other  aquatic  animals.  It  has  a  peculiar  habit,  which  seems 
to  be  its  pastime,  for  we  know  of  no  other  motive  it  can 
havd  unless  it  be  the  love  of  amusement,  which  is  to  ascend 
a  high  ridge  of  snow,  and  with  its  legs  thrown  back,  slide 
down  head  foremost  upon  its  breast.  When  there  is  no 
mow,  it  will  in  the  same  manner  slide  down  steep,  smooth, 
grassy  banks. 

The  sea  otter,  so  highly  and  justly  valued  for  its  rich  fur, 
is  found  only  along  the  American  coast  and  adjacent  islands 
from  Kamtchatka  to  upper  California.  They  vary  in 
size,  are  generally  about  four  feet  long  when  full  grown, 
and  nine  inches  in  diameter.  Its  legs  are  very  short,  and  its 
feet  are  webbed.  Its  fur  is  of  the  first  quality,  long  and  glos- 
sy,  extremely  fine,  intermixed  with  some  hairs ;  the  outside 
is  black,  sometimes,  however,  dusky,  and  the  inside  a  cin- 
erous  brown.  They  are  amphibious,  sportive,  and  often  bask 
upon  the  shore  for  repose,  and  when  asleep  the  Indians  ap- 
proach and  slay  them.  They  have  been  so  much  hunted 
for  their  valuable  fur,  that  they  are  diminishing  in  numbers. 
The  hair  seal  is  very  frequently  seen  in  the  waters  of  Co- 
lumbia river.  Its  head  is  large  and  round,  its  eye  full  and 
mild.  1  often  saw  it  swimming  after  our  canoe,  presenting  to 

I  view  its  head,  neck,  and  shoulders,  appearing  in  some  de- 
17 


y. 


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194 


ANIMALS. 


gree  like  the  mastiff  dog.  Its  hair  is  of  various  colors,  g^n. 
erally  a  dappled  gray.  It  rarely  goes  far  from  its  most  na. 
tural  element,  water ;  but  is  sometimes  seen  basking  upon 
rocks  on  the  shore,  and  this  is  the  most  favorable  opportu. 
nity  for  killing  it ;  for  its  motions  are  so  quick  in  the  wa- 
ter,  that  it  will  submerge  at  the  flash  of  the  rifle,  and  if  kill. 
ed  in  the  water  it  sinks,  and  is  difficult  to  be  obtained. 

In  enumerating  the  animals  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
I  am  not  able,  as  might  be  expected,  to  describe  the  Rocky 
Mountain,  or  big-horn  sheep,  as  I  did  not  have  an  opportu. 
nity  to  see  it.  I  am  unwilling  to  state,  as  facts,  the  de- 
scriptions  of  others,  especially  as  there  are  so  many  wrong 
statements  made  in  natural  history.  I  did  not  see  any  of 
these  animals,  which  I  believe  I  should  have  done,  if  they 
were  as  numerous  as  travelers  have  said  they  are.  I  saw 
their  horns,  which  are  enormously  large,  if  their  bodies  are, 
as  they  are  said  to  be,  not  much  larger  than  a  common  deer. 
A  horn  which  I  measured,  was  five  inches  in  diameter  at  its 
juncture  with  the  head,  and  eighteen  long.  Its  flesh,  of 
which  I  had  an  opportunity  to  eat,  was  far  preferable  to  the 
best  mutton.  They  inhabit  the  mountains,  and  are  said  to 
aelect  the  most  rough  and  precipitous  parts  where  grass  is 
found.  They  are  not  covered  with  wool,  but  with  hair  so 
bordering  upon  wool  as  to  render  its  coat  warm  in  the  win- 
ter. 

The  mountain  goat,  and  sheep,  did  not  come  under  my 
observation.  I  was  anxious  to  obtain  specimens  of  them, 
but  failed  in  obtaining  only  small  parts  of  their  skins,  not 
sufficient  to  make  a  description. 

I  close  with  the  buffalo,  which  is  of  the  bovine  genus, 
and  is  the  largest  and  the  most  important  for  food  and  gov- 
ering  of  any  of  the  animals  in  our  country.  I  need  not  in 
this  place  go  into  so  long  description,  as  otherwise  would  be 
important,  having  already  spoken  of  them  as  I  was  passing  | 
through  their  range  of  country.     After  having  seen  thou- 


* .   - 


ANIMALS. 


195 


sands  and  ten  thousands  of  them,  and  having  had  months 
of  time  to  examine  their  forms  and  habits,  I  feel  at  a  loss 
whether  they  are  to  be  classed  with  the  bi  Jalo  or  bison  of 
the  eastern  continent.  Not  with  the  buffalo  if  historians 
have  given  a  correct  description  of  those  on  that  continent. 
The  flesh  of  those  is  said  to  be  black,  hard,  and  very  unpal- 
atable ;  their  hides  impenetrable,  making  leather  soft  and 
smooth, — their  race  so  fierce  and  formidable,  that  there  is 
no  method  of  escaping  their  pursuit  but  by  climbing  up 
into  some  immense  tree ;  for  a  moderate  tree  would  be  bro- 
ken down  by  them,  and  many  travelers  have  instantly  been 
gored  to  death  by  them  and  trampled  to  pieces  under  their 
feet.  It  is  said  their  voice  is  a  hideous  loud  bellow.  None 
of  these  things  are  true  of  the  buffalo  of  our  country. 

If  a  true  account  has  been  given  of  the  bison  of  the 
eastern  continent,  our  buffalo  differ  from  them  in  several 
material  traits  of  character  and  habits.  Those  of  the  east- 
ern continent  are  said  to  have  small  heads,  with  horns  so 
wide  spread,  that  three  men  can  sit  between  them, — that 
their  eyes  are  small,  red,  and  fiery, — that  they  have  a  hump 
upon  their  backs  like  a  camel,  and  which  is  preferred  to  be 
eaten  for  its  delicacy, — that  they  are  fierce  and  vindictive, 
so  that  men  have  to  fly  to  trees  for  safety, — that  the  bulls 
and  cowfi  live  in  separate  bands.  These  things  do  not  cor- 
respond with  the  buffalo  or  bison  of  our  western  prairies. 

The  buffalo  or  bison  of  our  countiy  are  generally  about 
&s  large  as  our  domestic  neat  cattle,  and  their  long,  shaggy, 
woolly  hair  which  covers  their  head,  neck,  and  shoulders, 
gives  them  a  formidable  appearance,  and  at  a  distance 
something  like  the  lion.  In  many  particulars  they  resem- 
ble our  horned  cattle ;  are  cloven  footed,  chew  the  cud,  and 
eelect  the  same  kind  of  food.  Their  flesh  is  in  appearance 
and  taste  much  like  beef,  but  of  superior  flavor,  and  remark- 
ably easy  of  digestion.  Their  heads  are  formed  like  tlie  ox, 
perhaps  a  little  more  round  and  broad,  and  when  they  rua 


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196 


ANIMALS. 


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carry  them  rather  low.  Their  horns,  ears,  and  eyes,  as 
seen  through  their  shaggy  hair,  appear  small,  uad  cleared 
from  their  covering,  they  are  not  large.  Their  legs  and 
feet  are  small  and  trim,  the  fore  legs  covered  with  the  long 
hair  of  the  shoulders  as  low  down  as  the  knee.  Though 
their  figure  is  clumsy  in  appearance,  yet  they  run  swiftly 
and  for  a  long  time  without  much  slackening  their  speed ; 
and  up  steep  hills  or  mountains  they  more  than  equal  the 
best  horses.  They  unite  in  herds,  and  when  feeding,  scat. 
ter  over  a  large  space,  but  when  fleeing  from  danger,  they 
collect  into  dense  columns,  and  having  once  laid  their  course, 
they  are  not  easily  diverted  from  it,  whatever  may  oppose. 
Their  power  of  scent  is  great,  and  they  perceive  the  hunter 
when  he  is  on  the  windwaxd  side,  at  a  great  distance,  and  the 
alarm  is  taken,  and  when  any  of  them  manifest  fear  they 
are  thrown  into  confusion,  until  some  of  the  cows  take  the 
lead  to  flee  from  the  pursuer,  and  then  all  follow  at  the  top  of 
their  speed.  So  far  are  they  from  being  a  fierce  and  re. 
vengeful  animal,  they  are  very  shy  and  timid ;  and  in  no 
case  did  I  see  them  offer  to  make  an  attack,  but  in  self  de. 
fence  when  wounded  and  closely  pursued,  and  then  they  al. 
ways  sought  the  first  opportunity  io  escape.  When  they 
run  they  lean  alternately  from  one  jside  to  the  other,  l^e 
herds  are  composed  promiscuously  of  bulls  and  cows,  except 
some  of  the  old  bulls  which  are  often  found  by  themselves 
in  the  rear  or  in  advance  of  the  main  bands.  Sometimes 
tin  old  blind  one  is  seen  alone  from  all  others ;  and  it  was 
amusing  to  see  their  consternation  when  they  apprehend  the 
approach  of  danger.  The  natural  instincts  of  fear  and  pnu 
•dence  lead  them  to  fly  alternately  in  every  possible  direction 
for  safety.  I  was  pleased  to  find  our  most  thoughtless  young 
men  respect  their  age  and  pity  their  calamity  ;  for  in  no  in. 
stance  did  I  see  any  abuse  offered  them.  They  are  fond  of  roll* 
ing  upon  the  ground  like  horses,  which  is  not  practised  by  «ur 


FM  i: 


1?  Hi,  V  » '  ■        ,  .  .. 


ANIMALS. 


197 


■    *    ;■ 

■■..:*»    r 
■--<*.  .... 


domestic  cattle.  This  is  so  much  their  diverson,  that  large 
places  are  found  without  grass  and  considerably  excava- 
ted. The  use  of  their  skins  for  buffalo  robes,  and  their 
woolly  fur  with  which  they  are  covered,  are  so  universally 
known,  that  a  description  is  entirely  unnecessary.  Anoth- 
er peculiarity  which  belongs  to  them  is,  that  they  nev- 
er raise  their  voice  above  a  low  bellow ;  in  no  instance  were 
we  disturbed  by  their  lowing,  even  wlien  surrounded  by 
thousands,  and  in  one  of  our  encampments,  it  was  supposed 
there  were  five  thousand  near  by.  It  has  been  said  they  do 
not  visit  any  of  the  districts  formed  of  primitive  rocks. 
This  is  said  without  reason,  for  I  saw  them  as  frequently  in 
those  districts  in  proportion  to  their  extent  as  where  other 
formations  existed.  It  is  also  said  that  as  they  recede  from 
the  east  they  are  extending  west.  This  is  also  incorrect ; 
for,  as  I  have  before  said,  their  limits  are  becoming  more 
and  more  circumscribed.  And  if  they  should  continue  to 
diminish  for  twenty  years  to  come,  as  they  have  during  the 
last  twenty  years,  they  will  become  almost  extinct. 


y-J'^ 


>'• 


: "  > 


iv-r^ 


17* 


.■ft  •■  •^, . 


^-'■■irt^lX 


m$^ 


*  HJt'f.--Ci    -k,   .'.•'•'■"•  ' 


^1 


*   -  ■ 

lPi(l',y !  >■' 


198 


FISH. 


j4&4  I;'  .    • 


CHAPTER  XV. 


'Pish — description  of  salmon — salmon  fishery — dendrology — shrubbery 
— nutritive  roots— geography— mountains— valleys— plains— forests- 
rivers — soil — seasons. 


I  pass  to  a  brief  notice  of  the  fish  found  in  the  waters  of 
the  Columbia.  Their  number  is  great,  but  their  variety  is 
small.  The  salmon,  sturgeon,  anchovy,  rock  cod,  and  trout 
are  all  that  I  shall  mention.  The  sturgeon  of  good  quality 
and  in  very  considerable  numbers,  commence  running  the 
fore  part  of  April,  and  give  relief  to  the  suffering  Indians. 
I  say  suffering ;  for  before  the  opening  of  the  spring,  their 
stock  of  provisions  are  consumed,  and  they  are  seen  search. 
ing  for  roots  and  any  thing  which  will  sustain  life ;  and 
though  I  do  not  feel  authorized  to  say  what  others  have  said, 
that  in  the  latter  part  of  the  winter  and  fore  part  of  the 
spring,  they  die  with  starvation  in  great  numbers,  yet  they 
are  brought  to  great  want,  and  look  forward  to  the  time 
when  the  sturgeon  shall  come  into  the  river  with  great  so. 
licitude.  I  do  not  in  these  remarks  include  the  Shoshones 
or  Snake  Indians.  A  small  fish,  like  the  anchovy,  about 
six  inches  long,  very  fat  and  well  flavored,  come  into  the 
river  in  great  numbers  about  the  time,  or  little  before  tlie 
sturgeon.  The  Indians  obtain  large  quantities  of  oil  from 
them  by  putting  them  into  a  netting  strainer  and  exposing 
them  to  gentle  heat. 

The  rock  codfish  were  not  known  to  inhabit  the  waters 
about  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  until  the  present  year. 
They  are  very  fine  and  easily  caught. 

The  salmon  is  far  the  most  numerous  and  valuable  fish 


it'  *  - 


FI6H. 


199 


found  in  these  waters,  and  of  excellent  flavor.  It  is  well 
ascertained  that  there  are  not  less  than  six  different  species 
of  the  true  salmon  that  ascend  these  waters,  commencing 
about  the  twentieth  of  ApriL  Their  muscular  power  is  ex- 
ceedingly great,  which  is  manifested  in  tiieir  passing  the 
falls  and  rapids,  which  it  would  seem  are  insuperable.  They 
are  never  known  to  return,  but  are  constantly  pressing 
their  way  upwards,  so  that  it  is  not  uncommon  to  find  them 
in  the  «mall  branches  of  the  rivers  near  the  very  sources. 
We  found  them  in  September  near  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
where  they  are  said  to  be  foimd  as  late  as  November  and 
December.  I  saw  some  with  parts  of  their  heads  worn  to 
the  bone,  and  the  skin  worn  oflT,  which  appears  to  be  the 
result  of  their  efforts  to  ascend  until  they  perish.  Late  in 
the  season,  great  numbers  are  found  dead,  furnishing  food 
for  crows,  and  even  Indians ;  for  I  have  seen  them  drive 
away  the  crows  and  appropriate  the  remnants  to  themselves. 
When  the  salmon  become  much  emaciated,  their  flesh  loses 
its  rich  redness,  and  it  is  seen  in  the  skin,  which  gives  the 
(ish  a  beautiful  appearance,  but  when  in  this  state  it  is  hard- 
ly palatable.  It  is  worthy  of  notice,  that  the  salmon  has 
its  preferences  of  water,  selecting  some  branches  of  the 
Columbia  river  and  passing  by  others ;  and  those  taken  in 
some  of  the  tributary  streams  are  far  better  than  those  ta- 
ken in  others.  While  those  which  ascend  the  rivers  never 
return,  their  young  are  seen  in  September  descending  on 
their  way  to  the  ocean,  in  immense  numbers.  It  is  believed 
these  return  the  fourth  year  after  their  descent ;  but  this 
may  be  only  conjecture.  It  is  difficult  to  estimate  how 
many  salmon  might  be  taken  in  these  rivers,  if  proper  meas- 
ures were  pursued ;  and  also  what  would  be  the  results  upon 
the  numbers  which  would  continue  to  enter  and  ascend.  I 
think  without  doubt  a  plan  might  be  devised  and  adopted  to 
I  carry  on  a  salmon  fishery  in  this  river  to  good  advantage 
and  profit.    The  experiment  was  made  by  a  company  from 


■•.:.-^-:;^*^?: 


■,•£♦.•. 


'S(1 


■  •  ■-,  ■•-•?>«■'■■ 


«■  ■  "■  •■■•■•■ 


1 


':'■&'' 


.t  «■ 


200 


FISHERr. 


I 


II'.    ■  .*  '.'■?i»  ■ .- 

I '    '>      ■            f  f  "  •     -  » 

I     •   .  '•  ,1  •        *     ■ 

'v-,  ,',-;■    i  .V--v;  * 


lj,2 


I 


ft"  t 


the  United  States,  which  failed,  for  it  contained  the  elements 
of  its  own  overthrow.  The  company  sent  out  large  quanti. 
ties  of  rum,  probably  calculating  on  the  fact  that  Indians 
are  fond  of  ardent  spirits,  and  if  they  should  gratify  this 
appetite,  they  should  enlist  them  in  their  favor,  and  as  In. 
dians  will  do  any  thing  for  rum,  they  would  catch  and  sell 
their  fish  to  them.  Whatever  the  object  of  the  company  might 
have  been  in  sending  and  dealing  out  so  much  rum,  the  In. 
dians  were  highly  pleased  with  receiving  it  in  pay  for  their 
salmon.  But  when  they  had  thus  obtained  it  they  would  be. 
come  intoxicated  and  disqualified  for  labor,  and  more  time  was 
wasted  in  drunkenness,  than  employed  in  fishing.  Besides 
their  salmon  were  often  suffered  to  lie  in  the  hot  sun  until  they 
were  much  injured,  if  not  wholly  spoiled.  The  result  was, 
that  the  company,  as  I  was  informed,  obtained  only  about  | 
four  hundred  barrels  of  salmon,  and  made  a  losing  voyage; 
and  the  superintendent  of  Fort  Vancouver  told  me,  that] 
when  the  company  abandoned  their  business  they  stored 
many  barrels  of  rum  at  his  fort.  My  information  was  not 
wholly  derived  from  those  who  had  been  in  the  employment  | 
of  that  Company,  and  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com. 
pany,  but  in  part  from  the  Indians.  The  Indians  often  I 
spoke  to  me  upon  the  subject  by  way  of  praise.  They 
would  say,  ^* close,  Mas  lum"  signifying,  good,  plenty of| 
rum. 

Having  frequently  made  mention  of  the  trees  and  shrub- 1 
bery  west  of  the  great  mountains,  I  shall  in  this  place  only 
enumerate  the  principal,  describing  a  few.    J  have  said  there 
are  three  species  of  fir,  and  that  they  constitute  far  the 
greatest  part  of  the  forest  trees,  and  are  very  large.    The 
three  kinds  are  the  rod,  yellow,  and  white.     They  not  onlyj 
differ  in  the  color  of  the  wood,  but  also  in  their  foliagc.| 
The  foliage  of  the  red  is  scattered  on  all  sides  of  the  branch. 
lets  in  tiie  same  form  as  those  found  in  the  United  States;] 
the  yellow  only  on  the  upper  side,  or  the  upper  half  of  the 


lit!     ■ 


1^ 


OENDBOLOGY. 


201 


mgs ;  the  white  is  oppositely  pinnated.  The  balsam  is 
alike  in  the  three  different  species,  found  in  blisters  upon 
the  bark  in  the  same  form  as  in  other  countries. 

White  pine  is  not  found  in  the  lower  country,  nor  far 
ffest  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  a  few 
pitch  are  found  in  the  same  region  with  the  white.  Nor- 
way and  yellow  pine  are  found  farther  west,  but  not  below  the 
Cascades.  The  new  species,  which  I  have  called  the  elas- 
tic pine,  is  far  the  most  numerous,  but  I  did  not  see  any  of 
tiiese  as  far  west  as  Walla  Walla. 

The  cedar  is  the  common  species,  grows  very  large  and 
tall,  and  is  the  best  of  any  of  the  forest  trees  for  various 
mechanical  uses.  The  yew  is  also  found  among  the  ever- 
greens, though  it  is  scarce.  The  tamarisk  is  found  in  small 
sections  of  the  country.  The  white  oak  of  good  quality, 
and  often  large,  is  a  common  tree  of  the  forests,  and  also  the 
black,  rough.barked  oak,  grows  in  some  of  the  mountainous 
parts.  In  an  excursion  down  the  rich  plains  below  Fort 
Vancouver,  where  there  are  trees  scattered  about  like  shade 
trees  upon  a  well  cultivated  farm,  I  measured  a  white  oak, 
which  was  eight  feet  in  diameter,  continued  large  about  thir- 
ty feet  high,  and  then  branched  out  immensely  wide,  under 
which  Mr.  J.  K.  T.  and  myself,  with  our  horses,  found  an 
I  excellent  shelter  during  a  shower  of  rain.  There  are  two 
kinds  of  ash,  the  common  wiiite  ash  and  the  broad  leafed. 
The  latter  is  very  hard.  There  is  also  alder,  which  I  have 
I  mentioned  as  growing  very  large  and  on  dry  ground  as  well 
I  as  on  that  which  is  low  and  swampy. 

There  are  three  species  of  poplar,  the  common  aspen,  the 
I  cotton,  and  balm.  The  first  is  common  in  various  parts  of 
the  United  States,  and  is  well  known ;  the  second  commonly 
called  cotton.wood,  skirting  rivers  and  streams  as  in  the  west- 
em  states;  the  third  is  the  bitter  cotton-wood,  but  is  that 
which  is  often  called  the  balm  of  Gilead.  Its  distinguish- 
ing properties  are  oblong  leaves,  and  a  bitter  balmy  sub- 
stance in  a  glutinous  state  found  in  the  small  twigs  but 


■* 

•*''- 

'■,1 

',' 

■     .  •    •'      * 

l%- 

'•'', 

;.?!: 

irJ^ 

r.  - 

'  1 


202 


SHRUBBERY. 


i 


•iJr.':.  »*;:-•.•  ,■ 


fe^'^^"^^%..- 


.->■■ 


I'   II'    M*.  .7-     ,  a'**    *• 


Mi  ft:- 


Hit,   < 


^■,-,  j; 


mostly  in  the  buds.  This  last  species  in  some  places  spreads 
over  large  sections  of  bottom-land,  where  the  soil  is  uncom. 
monly  good.  White  maple  is  found,  but  only  in  small  quan. 
tities.  Willows  are  very  common.  There  is  a  tree  in  the 
lower  country  which  grows  much  in  the  form  of  the  laurel 
or  bay  tree,  but  much  larger, — the  bark  is  smooth  and  of  a 
bay  red  color,  its  leaves  are  ovate.  It  has  been  called  the 
strawberry  tree,  but  I  do  not  know  with  what  proprietv. 
There  are  no  walnut  or  hickory  trees  west  of  the  great 
mountains,  nor  chestnut  of  any  species,  or  hard  or  sugar 
maple,  or  beach,  lind  or  bass-wood,  black  cherry,  cucumber, 
white  wood,  elms,  or  any  kind  of  birch,  except  a  species  of 
black  birch  which  grows  small ;  nor  are  there  any  of  the 
species  of  locusts,  hackberry,  or  buckeye.  I  might  length. 
en  out  the  catalogue  of  negatives,  but  the  above  observations 
are  sufficient  to  give  a  general  view  of  the  forest  trees  ofj 
the  country. 

The  variety  of  shrubbery  and  plants  is  so  numerous,  that  I 
it  would  employ  the  botanist  many  months  in  their  exarai. 
nation.     I  shall  only  sketch  a  few  of  those  which  are  scat. 
tered  over  the  prairies  and  through  the  forests.     Amongl 
these  are  several  varieties  of  the  thorn-bush,  many  of  whichl 
are  large  and  fruitful.     Those  bearing  the  red  apple  present! 
when  they  are  ripe,  a  very  beautiful  appearance.     There  isl 
one  species  peculiar  to  the  country  west  of  the  mountains,! 
the  fruit  of  which  is  black  and  of  a  delightful  sweet  tastej 
but  not  generally  dispersed  through  the  country.  It  is  prin.| 
cipally  found  about  the  Blue  Mountains,  the  Walla  Walla 
and  Ummatilla  rivers.     The  choke  cherry  is  common  to  alll 
parts  of  the  country,  and  its  fruit  is  very  grateful  whera 
animal  food  is  principally  depended  upon  for  subsistence] 
The   salalberry  is  a  sweet  and  pleasant  fruit,  of  a  darlj 
purple  color,  and  about  the  bigness  of  a  grape.     Tlie  ser] 
viccberry  is  about  the  bigness  of  a  small  thorn  apple,  blacli 
when  fully  ripe,  and  pleasantly  sweet  like  the  whortleberry  i 


f^  , 


■'A--' 


PLANTS. 


203 


and  the  pambina  is  a  bush  cranberry.  The  varieties  of 
the  gooseberry  are  man), — the  common  prickly,  which 
grows  very  large  on  a  thorny  bush, — the  small  white,  which 
is  smooth  and  very  sweet, — the  large  smooth  purple,  and  the 
smooth  yellow,  which  are  also  of  a  fine  flavor.  All  of  thcje 
attain  to  a  good  maturity,  and  those  growing  on  the  prai- 
ries are  very  superior.  There  are  three  varieties  of  the 
current,  the  pale  red,  the  yellow,  which  is  well  tasted,  and  the 
black.  Though  these  are  a  pleasant  acid,  yet  they  are  not 
60  prolific  and  desirable  as  those  which  grow  under  the 
hand  of  cultivation.  The  beautiful  shrub  called  the  snow- 
drop, which  is  found  in  some  of  our  gardens,  grows  here 
wild  and  in  great  abundance. 

Besides  the  common  raspberries,  there  is  a  new  species 
i  which  grows  in  the  forests,  the  berry,  which  is  three  times 
as  large  as  the  common,  is  a  very  delicate,  rich  yellow,  but 
I  the  flavor  is  less  agreeable.  There  is  a  new  species  of 
I  sweet  elder  which  I  have  already  described.  The  vining 
I  honeysuckle  is  among  the  first  ornaments  of  nature. 

The  sweet  flowering  pea  grows  spontaneously,  and  in 
I  some  places  ornaments  large  patches  of  ground.  In  some 
small  sections  red  clover  is  found,  diflering,  however,  from 
the  kind  cultivated  by  our  farmers,  but  not  less  sweet  and 
beautiful ;  white  clover  is  found  in  the  upper  and  mountain. 
ous  parts.  Strawberries  are  indigenous,  and  their  flavor 
I  more  delicious  than  any  I  have  tasted  in  other  countries. 

Wild  flax  I  have  mentioned  and  described  on  page  eighty- 
isix. 

Sun-flowers  are  common,  but  do  not  grow  large ;  also  a 
Ispecics  of  broom  corn  is  found  in  many  places  of  the  bot- 
tom-lands of  the  Columbia  and  other  streams.     To  these 
may  be  added  a  wild  grain  somewhat  resembling  barley,  or 
Irye. 

Among  the  nutritive  roots,  I  have  mentioned  the  w&ppa- 
Itoo  and  the  camraas.     The  w&ppatoo  is  a  bulbous  root,  the 


''  •       -    fc' .    -*"     '  '■^*  ■'•  'i  m   ' 


'  >;-'7.   :\i:^'  ■■■■ 


■  •■■■•««*  V:   ■■■ 

'■••>■, 

.  ,1-  )     • 


■•V .. 


•  •>  ■  - 1  ;  ■ 


0 


204 


GEOGRAPHT. 


I 


t-iy 


S«P#V:'^; 


if:|  ;r.';.  ■•    . 
r  •i'lfft   ij' '  •■■■ 


«,i-L  ■-,'■•■•.■       t,- 


common  sagittafolia  or  arrow  head,  and  is  found  only  in  the 
valley  of  the  Columbia  below  the  Cascades.  It  becomes 
soft  by  roasting  and  is  a  nourishing  and  palatable  food,  is 
much  used  by  the  Indians,  and  is  an  article  of  trade.  It 
grows  in  shallow  lakes,  and  in  marshes  which  are  covered 
with  water.  The  Indian  women  wade  in  search  of  this 
root,  feel  it  out  in  the  mud  and  disengage  it  with  their  feet 
when  it  rises  to  the  surface  of  the  water  and  is  saved.  The 
cammas,  a  tunicated  root,  is  one  of  great  importance  to  the 
Indians,  and  grows  in  moist,  rich  ground,  in  the  form  of  an 
onion.  It  is  roasted,  pounded,  and  made  into  loaves  like 
bread,  and  has  a  licorice  taste.  The  cowish,  or  biscuit  root, 
grows  on  dry  land,  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  or  considera. 
bly  larger,  tastes  like  the  sweet  potato,  is  prepared  in  thej 
same  manner  for  food  as  the  cammas,  and  is  a  tolerable] 
substitute  for  bread.  To  these  may  be  added  the  racine 
amere,  or  bitter  root,  which  grows  on  dry  ground,  fusiform  J 
and  though  not  pleasant  to  the  taste,  yet  is  very  conducive! 
to  health  ;  also  the  common  onion,  and  another  characteri- 
zed for  its  beautiful  red  flower,  which  often  grows  upon  patcli.| 
es  of  volcanic  scoria  where  no  other  vegetation  is  seen. 

Although  a  description  of  the  Oregon  Territory  has  beenl 
necessarily  interwoven  in  the  narrative,  yet  a  condensed| 
account  of  its  geography  may  with  propriety  be  given  here. 
In  comparing  the  country  west  with  that  east  of  the  moun. 
tains,  especially  the  great  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  we  ai 
impressed  very  powerfully  with  the  strong  contrast  whicl 
their  distinguishing  features  present.  The  valley  of  ik 
Mississippi  may  be  called  the  garden  of  the  world— €ver}j 
part  abounding  in  rich  soil  inviting  cultivation.  We  « 
no  barren  or  rocky  wastes,  no  extended  swamps  or  marshei 
—no  frozen  mountains.  Destitute  of  prominent  land-markj 
to  catch  the  eye  of  the  traveler,  he  sees  in  the  wide  distaiK 
before  him  onlv  the  almost  horizontal  lines  of  level  or  roll] 
ing  meadow.     No  one  points  him  to  the  peaks  of  dim  moui 


wards  a 
these,  b 
these  tl 
and  hig 
-the 
Cooscoo 
Colvilk 
Betwe 

plains. 

tween 

the  Cas 

tending 


^P^ 


MOUNTAINS, 


205 


tains  and  tell  him  that  the  range  divides  two  sister  states, 
or  separates  two  noble  rivers.  He  sees  no  clouds  resting 
on  the  shoulders  of  lofty  Butes  and  blending  their  neutral 
tint  with  the  hazy  blue  of  the  landscape  before  him — nor 
Tetons  rearing  their  heads  into  the  region  of  perpetual 
snow — and  day  after  day,  he  pursues  his  journey  without 
any  thing  to  create  in  his  bosom  emotions  of  the  grand 
and  sublime,  unless  it  be  the  vastness  of  the  expanse. 

Beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  nature  appears  to  have 
studied  variety  on  the  largest  scale.  Towering  mountains 
and  wide  extended  prairies,  rich  valleys  and  barren  plains  ; 
and  large  rivers  with  their  rapids,  cataracts,  and  falls,  pre- 
sent a  great  diversity  of  prospect.  The  whole  country  is 
so  mountainous,  that  there  is  not  an  elevation  from  which 
a  person  cannot  see  some  of  the  immense  ranges  which  in- 
tersect its  different  parts.  On  an  elevation  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Fort  Vancouver,  five  isolated  conical  mountains, 
from  ten  to  fifteen  thousand  feet  high,  whose  tops  are  cov- 
ered with  perpetual  snow,  may  be  seen  rising  in  the  sur» 
rounding  valley.  There  are  three  general  ranges,  west  of  the 
rocky  chain  of  mountains,  running  in  northern  and  south- 
ern directions.  The  first  above  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia 
river ;  the  second  at  and  below  the  Cascades ;  the  third  to- 
wards and  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  From  each  of 
these,  branches  extend  in  different  directions.  Besides 
these  there  are  those  in  different  parts  which  are  large 
and  high,  such  as  the  Blue  Mountains  south  of  Waila  Walla, 
—the  Salmon  river  mountains  between  Salmon  and  the 
Cooscootske  rivers ;  and  also  in  the  regions  of  Okanagan  and 
Colville. 

Between  these  mountains  are  wide  spread  valleys  and 
plains.  The  largest  and  most  fertile  valley  is  included  be- 
tween Deer  island  on  the  west,  to  within  twelve  miles  of 
the  Cascades,  which  is  about  fifty-five  miles  wide,  and  ex- 

tending  north  and  south  to  a  greater  extent  than  I  had  the 
18 


•«    .  •  -.tbi" '  *  r 


:/Sf 


ft    \ 


..V 


■  ■•4- 


'         I 


206 


VALLEYS — PLAINS FORESTS. 


Iff 'v;  ;^^'.  :. 

v.!  "."i'     *  :"   ,,-■■    •' 

^^■{«.?  ^.^■^■•' 

I*'  ,;■■■  iYr-     ' 


\'.\ 


means  of  definitely  ascertaining ;  probably  from  Pugetg 
sound  on  the  north  to  the  Umbiqui  river  on  the  south. 
The  Willamette  river  and  a  section  of  the  Columbia  are  in. 
eluded  in  this  valley.  The  valley  south  of  the  Walla  Walla 
called  the  Grand  Round  is  said  to  excel  in  fertility.  To 
these  may  be  added  Pierre's  hole  and  adjacent  country ; 
also  Racine  Amere  east  of  the  Salmon  river  mountains. 
Others  of  less  magnitude  are  dispersed  over  different  parts. 
To  these  may  be  subjoined  extensive  plains  most  of  which 
are  prairies  well  covered  with  grass.  The  whole  region  of 
country  west  of  Salmon  river  mountains,  the  Spokein  woods 
and  Okanagan,  quite  to  the  range  of  mountains  which  cross 
the  Columbia  at  the  Falls  is  a  vast  prairie  covered  with 
grass,  and  the  soil  is  generally  good.  Another  large  plain, 
but  which  is  said  to  be  very  barren,  lies  off  to  the  south- 
west  of  Lewis'  or  Snake  river,  including  the  Shoshones' 
country  ;  and  travelers  who  have  passed  through  this  have 
pronounced  the  interior  of  America  a  great  barren  desert; 
but  this  is  drawing  a  conclusion  far  too  broad  from  premis. 
es  so  limited.  So  far  as  I  have  had  opportunity  for  obser- 
vation, I  should  feel  warranted  in  saying,  that  while  some 
parts  of  the  Oregon  Territory  are  barren,  large  parts  are 
well  adapted  to  grazing ;  and  other  parts,  though  less  ex. 
tensive,  to  both  tillage  and  grazing. 

Upon  the  subject  of  forests,  I  would  only  observe,  that  a 
large  proportion  of  the  country  west  of  the  mountains  is 
destitute,  while  some  parts  are  well  supplied.  I  have  al. 
ready  mentioned  the  lower  country^  from  below  the  Falls  of 
the  Columbia  to  the  ocean,  as  being  well  wooded,  and  in 
many  parts,  especially  near  the  ocean,  densely.  The  moun- 
tains  north  of  the  Salmon  river,  and  the  country  about  the 
Spokein  river,  and  so  on  still  farther  north,  are  well  supplied. 
In  some  other  sections  there  are  partial  supplies. 

The  country  in  general  is  well  watered,  being  intersected 
with  lakeS)  and  many  large  rivers  and  tributary  streams. 


RIVERS — SOIL^oSEASONS. 


207 


This  might  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  there  are  so  many 
mountains,  upon  the  sides  and  base  of  which  are  multitudes 
of  the  finest  springs.  No  country  furnishes  water  more 
pure  and  of  crystal  clearness.  As  the  spring  and  summer 
beat  commences,  the  snows  of  the  mountains  melt,  and  be- 
gin to  swell  the  rivers  the  first  part  of  May,  and  continue 
to  increase  until  June,  when  the  freshet  is  the  greatest,  and 
overflows  large  sections  of  the  low  lands  of  the  valleys,  and 
gome  parts  present  the  appearance  of  inland  seas.  No  part 
of  the  world  furnishes  superior  advantages  for  water  power. 
The  seasons.  These  are  divided  into  two  ;  the  rainy  in 
the  winter,  commencing  in  November  and  terminating  in 
May ;  the  dry  season  in  the  summer,  which  is  entirely  desti- 
tute of  rain,  and  during  which  time  the  atmosphere  is  remark- 
aWy  serene  ;  and  the  daily  prairie  winds  relieve  the  heat  of 
the  sun,  and  the  season  is  most  delightful.  The  climate  is 
far  more  temperate  and  warm  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
than  east  in  the  same  latitude,  there  being  at  least  eight  de- 
grees of  latitude  diflTerence,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  subjoin- 
ed meteorological  table*  There  were  only  three  days  in  the 
whole  winter  of  my  residence  in  the  country,  that  the  ther- 
mometer sunk  to  22°  Fahrenheit,  at  Fort  Vancouver.  Snow 
does  not  fall  deep  excepting  upon  the  mountains ;  in  the 
valleys,  it  rarely  continues  but  a  few  days,  or  at  the  farthest 
only  a  few  weeks  ;  and  by  the  latter  part  of  February  or 
the  first  of  March,  ploughing  and  sowing  is  commenced. 
And  not  only  is  the  climate  uncommonly  delightful,  but  it  is 
also  healthy,  there  being  scarcely  any  prevailing  diseases, 
except  the  fever  and  ague  in  the  lower  country,  which,  as 
has  been  stated,  commenced  in  1829 ;  and  ophthalmy  which 
is  very  general  among  the  Indians  of  the  plains.  It  is 
worthy  of  notice,  and  is  remarkable,  that  thunder  and  light- 
ning are  seldom  witnessed  west  of  the  mountains,  but  in 
the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  it  is  very  frequent  and  un- 
usually heavy. 


:'.■■      ■'«,',-r.iSl.;C;:--'',v     ' 


:     »     ... 


.'i 


'■;■'  ::'!>.: 


•>i-l,. 


i.f  i-^^t  ■ffi'i  :"-•■■' A 

■,'-fi''*t  Viii  ■■. 'T  -'.■  '•■ 

tj  t      ••♦•■  ■    » .    -.'■.■■'    ■ 


fy^i 


'V.KC^':V 


*  -,T« 

4. 


■  '\V-W- 


i  ■-  *  .-• 


u 


o 


08 


GEOLOOY. 


CHAPTER  XVL 


Geology. 


I  proceed  to  a  more  general  view  of  the  geology  of  this 
country,  which  has  only  been  taken  up  in  detached  parts. 
However  quiescent  the  present  stale  of  the  earth  is,  yet 
in  this  whole  region  west  of  the  great  dividing  range  of 
mountains,  there  have  been  astonishing  geological  changes, 
and  we  are  compelled  to  believe  that  the  whole  has  been  a 
great  volcanic  furnace.  Wo  are  driven  to  this  belief  for  a 
rational  and  satisfactory  solution  of  the  existing  phenome. 
na.  The  whole  country,  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the 
east  and  Pacific  ocean  on  the  west,  and  from  Queen  Char, 
lotto's  island  on  the  north  to  California  on  the  south,  pre- 
sents one  vast  scene  of  igneous  or  volcanic  formation.  In. 
ternal  fires  appear  to  have  reduced  almost  all  the  regular 
rock  formations  to  a  state  of  fusion,  and  then  through  fis. 
sures  and  chasms  of  the  earth  to  have  forced  the  substances 
which  constitute  the  present  volcanic  form.  Such  has  been 
the  intensity  and  extent  of  this  agency,  that  mountains  of 
amygdaloid  and  basalt  have  been  thrown  up  ;  and  the  same 
substance  is  spread  over  the  neighboring  plains,  to  what 
depth  it  is  not  known ;  but  from  observations  made  upon 
channels  of  rivers,  and  the  precipices  of  ravines,  it  is  evi- 
dcntly  very  deep.  The  tops  of  some  mountains  are  spread 
out  into  horizontal  plains,  some  are  rounded  like  domes,  and 
others  terminate  in  conical  peaks,  and  abrupt  eminences  of 
various  magnitudes,  which  are  numerous,  presenting  them- 
selves  in  forms  resembling  pillars,  pyramids,  and  castles. 

The  basalt  in  this  section  of  country  is  of  a  dark  color, 


■i^H^P 

• 

H 

iii.--- 

»y  of  this 
led  parts, 
th  is,  vet 
range  of 
changes, 
IS  been  a 
slief  for  a 
phenome- 
ins  on  the 
;en  Char- 
outh,  pre- 
ion.    In. 
le  regular 
rough  fis. 
ubstances 
1  has  been 
mtains  of 
the  same 
!,  to  what 
lade  upon 
,  it  is  evi- 
ire  spread 
omes,  and 
inences  of 
ing  them- 
castles. 
lark  color. 


.==^ 


f-  «• 


«'.•".> 


s-*«lV 


T     X 


i-K. 


1    *• 


:-f-..: 


^n,  t 


>,*:« 


^  JI.H, - 


»f«.^• 


r^ 


-*j": 


t.'*^ 


■l'*'   J'  w 


■^i 


i' 


ft; 


7 


i         ^p 


r^^  ^ 


.-  « 


T'Ji' 


»      is 


r*' 


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J!    .1 


.^!v 


^M 


i-'V 


Kf; 


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i 


^jvf. 


:yt>^^ 


uCf^i 


'  ■'..*•■*{ 


'■1.-5;- 


Ji»^*i 


mM 


m 


im 


<4  I- 


■  V«  1 


■"^/,, 


^,•*? 


!■< 


f'^' 


US'  ''7 


'  ^S''J 


■lt'1 


3W' 


-l! 


it^j. 


■'■Nk^.^ 


!  .<*r  7 


„»^.. 


from  wh 
The  sai 
which  is 
fire  witF 
There 
seating 
obscure 
there  ca 
operatio] 
common! 
in  Augui 
caused  t 
whole  da 
red,  luri< 
night.     ] 
The  atm 
some  of 
light,  lik< 
aoce  of  I: 
known  to 
day  was 
after,  the 
bluish  fla 
no  earth( 
the  atmos 
perpetual 
presenting 
eluded,  th 
Indians  s 
Hood. 
is  a  mac 
quently  s< 
I  mountain 
Leavin 
Isei,  when 


GEOLOGY. 


209 


from  which  it  appears  that  augite  is  one  of  its  ingredients. 
Xhe  same  is  indicated  by  the  obsidian,  or  volcanic  glass, 
which  is  black,  and  is  harder  than  glass,  and  easily  strikes 
fire  with  steel. 

There  are  several  regularly  formed  craters,  but  these,  pre- 
senting themselves  in  depressions  or  in  cones,  are  rendered 
obscure  by  the  lapse  of  time.  That  volcanoes  have  cxisl  d 
there  can  be  no  doubt ;  but  that  they  luivo  been  in  fictive 
operation  recently  is  more  uncertain.  There  was  an  un- 
commonly dark  day  at  Fort  Vancouver,  and  in  its  vicinity, 
in  August,  1831,  which  some  have  thought  must  have  been 
caused  by  smoke  from  an  eruption  of  a  volcano.  The 
whole  day  was  nearly  as  dark  as  night,  except  a  little 
red,  lurid  appearance,  which  was  perceptible  until  near 
night.  Lighted  candles  were  necessary  through  the  day* 
The  atmosphere  was  filled  with  smoke,  ashes,  and  leaves,, 
some  of  the  latter  were  scorched,  and  the  ashes  were  very 
light,  like  the  white  ashes  of  wood ;  all  having  the  appear* 
ance  of  being  produced  by  great  fires,  and  yet  none  were 
known  to  be  in  any  part  of  the  whole  region  around.  The 
day  was  perfectly  calm  without  any  wind.  For  a  few  days 
after,  the  fires  out  of  doors  were  noticed  to  burn  with  a 
bluish  flame,  as  though  mixed  with  sulphur.  There  were 
no  earthquakes.  By  observations,  which  were  made  after 
the  atmosphere  became  clear,  it  was  thought  the  pure,  white, 
perpetual  snow  upon  Mount  St.  Helens  was  discolored, 
presenting  a  brown  appearance,  and  therefore  it  was  con- 
cluded, that  there  had  been  upon  it  a  slight  eruption.  The 
Indians  say  they  have  seen  fires  in  the  chasms  of  Mount 
Hood.  TilkT,  the  first  chief  of  the  La  Dalle  Indians,  who 
is  a  man  of  more  than  ordinary  talents,  said  he  had  fre- 
I  quently  seen  fires  iu  the  fissures  of  rocks  in  the  last  named' 
[mountain. 

Leaving  the  subject  of  recent  volcanoes,  the  enquiry  ari- 

Isei,  when  were  those  fires  in  operation,  which  have  produc- 

18* 


•>  •    • 

'ft 

*  (• 

' '"!» 

■  --^*  . . 

, 

'  '■  r   ■    .;■ 

i''^-*^-' 

"    •       '-    * 

:%    ■'        ,* 

-      •     *.   ' 

f :  ■'- 

'■-'■■  ■■ . 

■*',:  f  ':"■ 

.V:|i|..^».r. 

-  ^    • 

^t;;  I 

•1    V, 

!i; 

'.      ''  \<    \ 

''if, ,  '■«■,' 


i'^A'- 


■  ..(ill':'     ,!•. 


%-''^ii  X'%^f '. 


^1^    ^-*'?*:V 


% 


m^^y 


y;=f 


,■.;.» 


210 


GEOLOGY. 


v:mp_ 


,  I 


i,'^'"--" 


4-^     . 


b.iiM 

1    ;t 


ed  such  mighty  effects,  and  spread  such  devastations  ?  I 
th I uk  evidently  after  the  flood,  and  with  a  very  few  excep. 
tions,  very  near  the  time  of  that  memorable  event.  I  am 
led  to  this  conclusion,  from  the  fact  that  no  fossil  remains 
are  found  in  any  part  of  this  whole  region,  with  two  or 
three  exceptions^ 

I  have  improved  every  opportunity  which  has  been  pre- 
sented  to  make  observations ;  and  have  also  made  many- 
enquiries  of  men  who  have  traveled  extensively  and  for  a 
long  time  in  different  parts  of  this  country,  some  of  whom 
are  men  of  science.  No  evidence  of  fossil  remains  have 
been  noticed  by  them,  with  the  exception  of  two  specimens, 
one  a  piece  of  bone,  the  other  a  small  shell — a  Turritella. 
The  latter,  which  I  saw,  was  found  in  a  mountain  south  of 
Mount  Hood,  in  the  Callapooa  country.  If  this  large  re- 
gion was  the  abode  of  animals,  they  and  all  fossil  remains 
must  have  been  destroyed,  by  that  powerful  heat,  which  has 
changed  all  the  natural  formations.  It  is  not  to  be  sup. 
posed  there  were  no  fossil  remains  here  as  in  other  coun. 
tries,  for  in  the  country  about  and  above  the  arctic  circle, 
where  these  evidences  of  volcanic  fires  are  not  found,  yet 
organic  remains  are  found  in  alluvial  soils,  and  in  the  an- 
nexed masses  of  ice ;  and  of  such  animals  as  inhabit  warm 
climates  only.  The  mammoth  elephant,  and  the  fossil  re- 
mains of  many  other  animals,  are  found  in  Eschscholtz, 
north  of  Behring's  straits,  and  in  Siberia,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Lena.  The  geological  formations  in  and  about 
Eschscholtz  bay  are  primitive,  presenting  granite  and  mica- 
ceous  slate  in  their  natural  position,proving  that  the  northern 
regions  have  not  undergone  the  igneous  changes  which  have  I 
taken  place  in  these.  In  the  cliffs  of  Eschscholtz,  where 
the  fossil  bones  are  found,  and  on  the  banks  below,  pebbles 
of  basalt  mixed  with  pebbles  of  porphyry  are  found,  and 
also  a  few  large  blocks  of  basalt.  But  there  were  no  rocks  otj 
basalt  noticed,  from  which  these  stones  could  have  been  del 


OEOLOGT. 


211 


rived.  It  is  thought  by  those  who  observed  them,  that  they 
were  brought  to  their  present  situation  by  oceanic  currents. 
It  is  stated  by  travelers  and  historians,  that  in  all  the  far 
northern  regions  of  Asia,  there  is  scarcely  a  large  river,  in 
the  banks  of  which  there  are  not  found  the  fossil  remains  of 
elephants  and  other  large  animals ;  that  from  their  lofty, 
precipitous  and  sandy  banks,  fossil  ivory  is  extracted,  and 
collected  for  sale ;  and  although  those  fossils  are  found  in 
every  climate  and  latitude,  yet  those  obtained  in  the  frozen 
regions  of  the  arctic  circle  are  by  far  the  best.  In  some 
places,  also,  the  bones  of  large  and  small  animals  lie  piled 
together  in  heaps  :  but  commonly,  they  are  scattered  as  if 
they  had  been  displaced  by  waters,  and  buried  in  mud  and 
gravel.  Now  if  these  immense  volcanic  fires,  which  have 
changed  nearly  all  the  rock  formations  of  this  country,  into 
amygdaloid,  basalt,  lava,  and  obsidian,  had  existed  before  the 
Hood,  and  ceased  their  operations,  with  some  few  exceptions 
before,  or  at  the  time  of  the  flood,  why  do  we  not  find 
here  as  well  as  in  the  higher  regions  of  the  north,  and  in 
most  other  parts  of  the  world,  fossil  organic  remains  ?  They 
certainly  might  be  expected.  If  it  is  asked,  why  the  revolu- 
tion, by  which  the  fossil  mammoth  elephant,  and  many  oth- 
er  animals  have  become  extinct,  and  by  which  their  remains 
have  been  deposited  in  the  earth,  is  ascribed  to  the  flood  ? 
The  following  might  be  offered  in  reply  ; 

The  animals  whose  remains  are  found  in  the  frozen  re- 
gions of  the  north,  and  whose  natures  required  a  warm  cli- 
mate, must  have  been  carried  and  deposited  there  by  such 
agency.  Facts  are  against  the  theory,  that  the  high  re- 
gions of  the  north  had  a  climate  as  warm  as  the  tropics  are 
at  the  present  time.  If  they  had,,  and  a  gradual  change 
took  place,  how  could  any  animal  become  incased  in  ice  or 
frozen  earth,  without  the  flesh  having  undergone  decompo- 
sition or  decay.  The  mammoth  elephant  which  was  dis- 
covered  in  a  cliff*  of  a  peninsula  in  Siberia,  near  the  mouth 


.»     r 


■fa- *" ••-.*;'-»-  ^ a' -jj,  ^  ;.'■   > 


X 


V  -f 


:rrJ?-(.:^^;*v:r-*^?  i 


m 


212 


OEOLOGT. 


m:k 


'■:S'} 


4 


4>. 
.-.>■ 


I  ..'1; .  ^  »>•;,    ,-■ 


m-'v- 


•:^^^^^•: 


■ik. 


t, 


of  the  Lena,  and  was  disengaged  and  fell  in  the  year  1803 
must  have  been  suddenly  and  entirely  enveloped  soon  after 
its  death,  and  at  a  period  of  intense  cold,  which  intensity  of 
cold  must  have  continued  ever  since.  This  is  inferred  from 
the  fact  that  its  flesh,  skin,  and  hair  were  in  a  fresh  and 
well  preserved  state,  when  found  by  Mr.  Adams.  The  fossil 
elephant  according  to  Cuvier  differs  widely  from  the  Asiatic 
or  the  African  elephant.  Mr.  Adams,  after  having  given 
a  description  of  the  mammoth  elephant,  farther  remarks : 
"  In  various  places  were  seen  enormous  pieces  of  wood,  of 
all  the  kinds  produced  in  Siberia,  and  also  mammoth  horns 
(tusks)  in  great  numbers,  appeared  between  the  hollows  of 
the  rocks  ;  they  were  all  of  astonishing  freshness." 

Before  this  time,  in  1771,  a  rhinoceros  was  found  entire, 
with  its  skin,  flesh,  and  tendons  well  preserved  in  frozen  soil 
in  the  banks  of  the  Wiluji,  a  branch  of  the  Lena.  Can  it 
be  supposed  that  these  animals  inhabited  these  cold  and  fro. 
zen  regions,  or  that  this  country  was  warm,  down  to  the 
time  of  their  envelopment  ?  Is  it  not  far  more  reasonable 
to  suppose,  that  their  carcases  were  drifted  from  the  warm, 
er  regions  of  the  south,  by  a  cause  as  sudden  and  as  pow. 
erful  as  the  deluge  ?  Many  other  parts  of  the  world  fur. 
nish  like  evidence  of  a  great  catastrophe,  by  which  diluvial 
clay  and  sand  were  deposited,  containing  fossil  remains  of 
the  elephant,  the  rhinoceros,  and  various  other  animals, 
whose  species  are  now  extinct,  which  diluvial  deposites  are 
found  in  locations  of  various  altitudes  ;  the  circumstances 
of  which  indicate  the  same  cause,  a  powerful  inundation. 
There  is  so  much  of  coincidence  in  the  fossil  deposites  of 
the  frozen  regions  of  the  north,  and  those  of  other  and  warm- 
er  regions,  that  it  is  certainly  rational  to  suppose,  that  one 
and  the  same  revolution  was  the  cause  of  both.  In  both 
cases  the  fossils  are  of  the  same  species  of  animals ;  they 
are  imbedded  in  the  same  argi'iaceous  alluvium  of  great 
depth  and  extent ;  they  arc  acquiring  no  new  accessions, 


'.% 


\. 


GEOLOOT. 


213 


dut  are  losing  by  existing  causes.  No  operation  of  existing 
seas  and  rivers  can  account  for  such  phenomena,  without  the 
ipecial  interposition  of  divine  agency.  But  when  we  refer 
them  to  one  and  the  same  cause,  we  find  them  rationally 
I  accounted  for,  without  assuming   that  which  is  without 


The  fact  that  there  are  no  fossil  remains  found  in  this 
large  section  of  country,  does  not  militate  against  such  an 
inundation  of  the  world,  but  only  shows  that  these  aston« 
ishing  volcanic  fires  had  their  existence  and  operation  in  a 
jabsequent  period  of  time. 

Some  have  supposed  from  the  fact  that  the  mammoth  ele- 
phant found  near  the  mouth  of  Lena  was  covered  with  red- 
dish wool  and  black  hairs,  that  it  was  formed  for  that  cold 
climate,  and  therefore  was  not  drifted  from  the  south  by  any 
n  and  violent  inundation.  If  such  covering  of  ani- 
was  peculiar  to  the  north,  and  was  not  found  in  warm 


Iclimates,  the  argument  would  have  some  force.  But  we  find 
many  animals  in  warm  climates  with  this  covering ;  such 
IS  the  hyena  villosa,  the  lion,  and  the  buffalo.  Therefore 
DO  argument  can  be  drawn  from  the  covering  of  the  mam- 
moth elephant  of  the  Lena  against  the  catastrophe  of  the  flood; 
and  certainly  none  that  can  explain  its  sudden  congelation 
ifld  encasement  in  the  ice  and  frozen  earth.  Those  who 
deny  the  inundation  of  the  world  by  the  deluge,  may  be  fairly 
lealled  upon  to  account  for  the  extermination  of  these  ani- 
and  the  condition  in  which  they  are  found. 
It  is  thought  by  some,  that  notwithstanding  the  clear  and 
icisive  evidence  that  the  polar  regions  were  intensly  cold 
ihen  these  fossil  remains  were  deposited,  and  have  contin- 
led  so  ever  since,  yet  it  is  probable  that  in  a  period  far  re- 
te,  the  climate  of  these  countries  was  as  warm,  if  not 
armer,  than  our  present  tropics,  and  that  by  successive 
hanges  it  has  been  reduced  to  its  present  state.  The  ar- 
UQients  deduced  to  prove  this  position  are,  that  "  in  a  few 


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1214 


GEOLOGY. 


■detached  spots  within  the  arctic  circle,"  coral  reefs  are  foundj 
that  "  Capt.  Beechy  found  at  Cape  Thomson,  near  Behl 
ring's  straits  fossil  coral  in  limestone,  and  that  fossil  marinJ 
turtles  are  found  in  Siberia."     Are  these  arguments  suffi) 
cient  to  show  that  the  climate  could  not  have  been  00^ 
at  the  time  and  place  in  which  they  were  deposited  ?    Mighj 
not  the  same  general  inundation,  which  drifted  the  elephant 
rhinoceros  and  other  land  animals  now  extinct,  intothj 
cold  regions  of  the  arctic  circle  and  deposited  them  in  ic 
and  argillaceous  and  gravel  alluvium,  have  carried  the  fossil 
marine  turtle  into  Siberia  ?     And  when  the  fountains  of  th] 
great  deep  were  broken  up,  might  not  detached  reefs  of  cora 
have  been  carried  into  the  north  seas  ?      There  is  nothini 
credulous  nor  inconsistent   in  believing  that  the  might] 
aqueous  phenomanon  which  produced  the  one,  might  havj 
caused  the  other ;    and  that  the  regions  of  the  arctic  circlj 
were  before  the  flood,  as  they  now  are,  intensely  cold.  And : 
so,  then  there  are  existing  phenomena,  which  present  fu| 
evidence  of  an  universal  and  powerful  deluge,  which  wa 
the  cause  of  astonishing  changes  in  the  earth.     And  whili 
we  have  this  proof,  we  have  proof  carrying  with  it  at  leas| 
strong  probability,  that  the  widely  extended  volcanic  fir 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  existed  after  the  flood,  an 
by  their  intensity  destroyed  the  organization  of  fossil  rej 
mains.     That  the  intensity  of  these  fires  must  have  produc 
«d  such  an  eflfect  is  evident  from  the  fact  before  stated,  tba 
by  igneous  fusion  all  the  rock  formations,  with  a  ^qw  excep 
tions,  have  been  changed  into  basalt  and  amygdaloid. 

That  these  volcanic  fires  are  very  ancient,  is  evident  fioij 
the  condition  of  the  basaltic  rocks,  and  others  of  igneou 
formation  ;  as  also  from  the  nature  and  appearances  of  thl 
general  soils  found  in  this  country.  Far  the  greatest  paif 
is  composed  of  disintegrated  basalt,  to  a  great  extent  m 
tliiced  by  atmospheric  agency,  to  a  fine  black  mould. 
few,   and   only  a  ^GVf^  localities  furnish  vegetable   mould 


^T 


;v,.. 


•!> 


GEOLOGY. 


21& 


Igome  small  tracts  are  argillaceous,  often'mixed  with  volcan- 
lic  detritus.  There  are  many  escarpments  of  clay  of  va- 
[ious  colors,  white,  red,  and  green,  and  not  unfrequently  in 
1 1  greater  or  less  degree  indurated.  In  some  places  especial- 
Ijv  near  the  mountains,  quartose  sand  predominates. 

In  looking  over  the  geological  state  of  this  western  sec- 
Ition  of  our  continent,  and  the  evidences  that  these  subterra- 
Igean  fires,  in  all  probability,  have  had  their  operation  since 
flood,  the  question  forces  itself  again  and  again  upon  my 
linind,  what  agency,  by  the  rule  of  geologists,  formed  the 
Lannel  of  the  Columbia,  and  other  rivers  flowing  through 
Ldges,  and  mountains  of  hard  basalt  ?  The  channel  of  the 
IColumbia  in  many  parts,  is  walled  up  on  its  sides,  and  stud- 
M  with  islands  of  basaltic  rocks,  rising  in  perpendicular 
jlieight  from  20  to  400  feet ;  and  it  passes  through  a  moun- 
|luD  of  the  same,  below  the  Cascades,  of  more  than  1,000 
Ijeet;  the  walls  receding  but  little  from  vertical.  It  cannot 
lie  that  the  river  has  formed  its  own  channel  by  forcing  or 
liashing  through  the  rocks,  for  they  are  too  solid  and  im- 
Inense.  Undoubtedly  the  flowing  waters  have  worn  the 
liocks  very  considerably,  and  have  produced  changes,  but 
Lpon  no  principles  can  it  be  supposed,  that  they  have  pro- 
ced  so  long  and  so  deep  a  channel,  as  the  one  through 
ihich  the  Columbia  flows,  and  through  such  solid  rock  form- 
litions.      '■  ^..   ■  ■ 

Conversing  upon  this  subject  with  some  literary  gentle* 

en  who  had  frequently  passed  up  and  down  this  river, 

ifter  several  theories  were  proposed,  none  of  which  could 

|jven  bear  the  test  of  probability,  one  of  them  remarked, 

)  had  been  reminded  of  his  boyish  sports ;  when  he  had  dam. 

cd  up  water,  and  then  with  his  flnger  had  drawn  a  chan- 

el  through  the  sand  for  the  water  to  run ;  so  it  seemed  to 

kini  that  God  had  with  his  flnger  drawn  a  channel  for  the 

Diumbia.      It  was  readily  agreed,  that  that  was  the  most 

itional  one  of  any  that  could  be  supposed. 


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1216 


GEOLOGY. 


This  brought  to  my  recollection  a  conversation  Mr. 
Schoolcraft  and  myself*  had  when  passing  through  Lakei 
Huron  in  the  summer  of  1834,  in  which  we  were  consider- 
ing  some  of  the  difficulties  in  regard  to  the  evidence  of  the  i 
several  geological  formations.      After  some  considerable! 
conversation  upon  the  subject,  Mrs  Schoolcraft,   a  vervl 
amiable  woman,  sitting  by  and  hearing,  remarked,  "gentle. 
men,  you  need  not  give  yourselves  any  trouble  upon  this  sub. 
ject ;  God  could  with  perfect  ease  order  all  these  things." 
This  must  be  our  resting  place.  "  Every  house  is  builded  by] 
some  man,  but  he  that  built  all  things  is  God."     If  we  loosei 
sight  of  this  great  truth,  and  do  not  keep  it  in  view,  as  a  land. 
mark  in  our  investigations,  but  look  to  nature,  as  our  only] 
guide  and  instructor,  at  work  in  her  great  laboratory,  the! 
earth,  to  teach  us  mathematically  how  the  earth  is  formedj 
we  shall  wander  into  mazes  from  which  we  shall  not  be  able 
to  extricate  ourselves.     These  remarks  are  not  designed  to 
detract  from  the  science  of  geology ;    for  it  is  undoubtedly! 
very  interesting,  and  may  be  made  very  useful.     It  expand 
the  mind,  and  shows  more  clearly,  that  the  invisible  thingsl 
of  God  may  be  undei*stood  by  the  things  which  are  made ; 
and  shows  us  our  dependance  upon  Him  for  his  upholding 
and  protecting  providence.     Let  theorizing,  and  reasoning 
apriori  be  laid  aside;    and  none  but   truly  philosophical 
reasoning  be  pursued,  which  is  inductive,  and  nothing  is  to 
be  feared,  but  much  to  be  hoped,  from  geok)gical  investigaJ 
tions.      Many  geological  writers  indulge  much   in  theoJ 
ry,  and  to  establish  their  theories,  take  many  things  foi| 
granted  which  need  proof.     To  make  out  their  evidenc 
many  things  arc  supposed  to  be  the  results  of  mechanical 
and  chemical  agencies,  attractions  and  repulsions,  combinaj 
tions  and  transpositions.     We  are  told,  "  that  unless  we  i 
mit  that  the  earth  was  formed  in  long  and  successive  epochs 
before  the  creation  of  man,  we  deny  tho  evidence  of  mi 
senses.    And  it  ia  cusumed  as  an  undeniable  fact,  that  man 


liK- 


GEOLOGY. 


217 


was  not  created  till  many  generations  of  animals  and  plants 
had  lived  and  died ;  depositing  their  remains  in  the  rocks, 
whose  materials  were  accumulated  by  catastrophes  that  also 
overwhelmed  the  organized  beings."  This  is  assuming  very 
much,  and  what  ought  to  be  fully  proved. 

What  is  there  absurd  in  taking  the  language  which  Mo- 
ses uses  to  describe  the  creation  of  the  world  in  its  obvi- 
ous meaning?     And  if  we  do  this  shall  we  be  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  assuming  and  taking  more  for  granted^  than 
those   do,  who  suppose  long  successive   periods  of  time, 
in  each  of  which  astonishing  revolutions  have  taken  place, 
l)efore  man  was  created,  and  before  the  earth  was  reduced 
to  a  fit  condition  for  his  residence  ?     If  a  series  of  forma- 
tions in  regular  succession  surrounded  the  earth  like  the 
coats  of  an  onion,  and  these  in  all  parts  had  their  regular  and 
particular  deposits,  then  there  would  be  more  to  induce  the 
belief,  that  these  hypotheses  arc  correct,  and  the  six  days 
mentioned  by  Moses  were  six  epochs  of  indefinite  duration. 
But  it  is  not  so  ;  for  many  and  large  portions  of  countries 
ere  entirely  destitute  of  formations  which  are  found  in  other 
')laces.     In  some  the  transition  is  wanting,  and  the  second- 
ary rests  upon  the  primary.     In  others  the  tertiary  is  want- 
ing, or  scarcely  found.     It  is  also  assumed  that  different 
genera  and  species  of  plants  and  animals  designate  a  dis- 
tinct formation,  and  a  particular  period  of  time  in  which  it 
took  place.    If  it  was  known  to  be  true  that  different  genera 
and  species  of  animals  and  plants  had  their  existence  in  the 
same  periods  of  time,  in  all  countries  of  the  same  climate,  or 
in  corresponding  latitudes  ;  then  the  age  of  different  forma* 
tions  might  be  better  known  by  fossil  remains.     But  it  is  a 
fact,  that  the  genera  and  species  of  animals  and  plants  may 
differ  widely  and  materially  in  the  same  country,  age,  and 
latitude.     This  is  now  the  case  in  North  America,  on  the 

■•^  id  west  oide  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

I^t  North  America  now  be  submerged,  and  after  a  long 
19 


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218 


GEOLOGY. 


time  be  again  elevated  to  its  present  position,  and  let  future 
generations  examine  its  fossil  remains,  and  by  the  rules  very 
generally  laid  down,  would  they  not  conclude  that  the  sec. 
tion  on  the  east  side,  and  that  on  the  west  side  of  the  moun. 
tains  indicate  two  different  periods  of  submersion,  and  that 
there  was  a  Jong  intermediate  period  of  tranquillity  between 
them  ?  Would  not  the  different  genera  and  species  of  veg. 
etables  and  animals  lead  to  this  conclusion  ?  Would  they 
not,  from  the  evident  difference  of  temperature  of  climate 
in  the  same  latitudes  on  the  east  and  on  the  west,  conclude 
that  the  western  section  was  submerged,  at  the  period  when 
the  earth  was  much  warmer  than  at  a  period  when  the  eas. 
tern  section  was  submerged  ?  This  would  be  a  rational  and 
legitimate  conclusion  from  the  rule,  that  in  strata  of  the 
same  class,  dissimilar  organic  remains  belong  to  a  different 
period  of  time,  and  were  deposited  under  a  different  condi. 
tion  of  the  globe.  And  the  gigantic  balsam  firs,  found  in 
the  west  and  not  found  in  the  east,  would  as  clearly  prove  a 
different  climate  in  the  same  latitude  and  therefore  a  dif. 
ferent  period  of  submersion,  as  the  gigantic  ferns  prove  a 
different  temperature  of  the  earth,  and  of  course  a  differ- 
ent period  of  time,  in  which  they  were  deposited. 

On  the  west  side,  the  enormous  balsam  firs,  measuring  from 
five  to  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  between  one  and  two 
hundred  feet  in  height,  would  be  found  so  numerous  as  to 
constitute  whole  forests.  Also  the  alder  of  various  diara. 
eters,  from  the  small  to  those  of  two  feet  and  proportionably 
tall ;  and  also  the  rush  varying  from  four  to  ten  feet  long,  and 
proportionably  large.  While  the  fir,  the  alder,  and  rush 
would  be  found  on  the  east  side,  they  would  be  mere  dwarfs 
in  comparison  with  those  on  the  west,  and  also  very  sparse. 
And  many  genera  of  trees  and  plants  would  be  found  on 
the  one  side  which  would  not  be  found  on  the  other.  On 
the  west  there  would  be  no  walnut,  chestnut,  sugar  maple,  | 
elm,  and  many  other  kinds  of  trees.     And  of  animals  there  I 


GEOLOGY. 


219 


IT" 


■.-i-.iit-^.  f 

■!<*.,•  ilk' 


would  not  be  found  any  of  the  present  fossils  of  the  east, 
nor  the  ox,  the  ass,  the  swine,  nor  common  sheep, — the  buffalo 
would  be  found  east  and  in  the  mountains,  but  hardly  be- 
yond. What  conclusions  would  be  drawn  from  such  data, 
if  the  rules  which  have  been  adopted  by  some  geologists  are 
received  as  correct  ? 

If  such  is  now  the  difference  of  climate,  of  vegetables,  and 
of  animals,  between  the  country  on  the  east,  and  the  coun- 
try on  the  west,  of  our  continent,  and  in  the  same  latitude, 
may  not  mistakes  be  made  in  regard  to  different  formations 
and  different  periods  of  time  in  which  they  may  have  taken 
place  ?  And  especially  when  the  periods  are  so  remote,  and 
the  depth  of  the  earth  so  little  explored,  and  this  confined 
to  so  small  limits.  All  that  has  yet  been  done  is  only  like 
making  a  few  small  punctures  in  the  paper  covering  the  ar- 
tifical  globe. 

No  doubts  need  be  indulged,  but  that  such  advances  may 
and  will  be  made  in  the  science  of  geology,  that  it  will  become 
one  of  the  strong  corroborating  evidences  of  the  inspiration 
of  the  scriptures,  without  departing  from  the  obvious  mean- 
ing of  any  part  of  the  inspired  language.  The  books  of  na- 
ture, of  providence,  and  of  revelation  harmonize ;  and  it  is 
owing  to  our  darkened  and  limited  understandings,  that  we 
have  any  difficulty  in  seeing  their  harmony ;  and  the  more 
correct  knowledge  we  gain  of  them,  the  more  we  shall  see 
and  admire  their  coincidence.  •  • 

It  is  also  assumed  that  geology  proves,  that  "  man  was 
not  created  till  many  generations  of  animals  and  plants  had 
lived  and  died,"  and  could  not  be  cotemporaneous  with  them, 
because  fossil  remains  of  him  are  not  found  in  the  oldest 
strata  containing  such  remains.  Before  we  make  this  con. 
elusion,  let  us  take  the  biblical  account  of  the  creation  of 
man;  that  only  Adam  and  Eve  were  created,  and  that  of 
one  blood  God  hath  made  all  nations ;  that  man  had  his  first 
residence  in  Asia,  a  part  of  the  world  of  which  we  have  but 
little  geological  knowledge ;  and  for  a  long  time  after  the 


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220 


GEOLOGY. 


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I- J»W  »■■»  t'^WJ!*    ■   •"■  ■ 


H^i^m , 


creation,  population  was  not  numerous,  and  therefore  there 
would  be  little  inducement  to  emigrate  into  other  coun. 
tries,  where  geological  surveys  have  been  more  particular  • 
which  emigration  did  not,  perhaps,  occur  until  after  the 
flood.  And  besides,  mankind  have  always  been  very  care- 
ful  in  disposing  of  the  dead  where  they  would  not  become 
mingled  with  the  beasts  of  the  earth..  How  then  is  it 
strange  that  there  are  not  relics  of  man  and  of  art  found 
with  those  of  animals  and  vegetables?  But  it  is  not  true 
that  no  such  human  remains  have  been  discovered.  An  en. 
tire  skeleton  of  a  man  was  found  embedded  in  coal  in  a 
mine  in  England,  called  Ashley's  Wolds,  worked  through 
various  strata  of  iron,  stone,  coal,  and  solid  sandstone,  to 
the  depth  of  six  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet.  There 
were  no  appearances  of  this  bed  having  been  formerly  ex. 
cavated,  but  it  is  'presumed  there  had  been  a  pit  into  which 
the  person  fell,  and  that  its  sides  had  fallen,  enclosing  the 
body  in  the  condition  in  which  it  was  discovered,i 

It  is  difficult  to  determine  how  much  antiquity  is  to  be 
given  to  fossil  organic  remains  found  deep  in  the  earth,  es. 
pecially  since  we  do  not  know  how  many  of  them  may  have 
been  deposited  where  they  now  are  found,  by  animals  hav. 
ing  fallen  through  fissures  into  caverns,  and  then  ca-ried  by 
subterranean  streams  and  deposited  in  different  and  remote 
places.  And  by  the  changes,  which  these  subterranean 
rivers  and  streams  are  making,  caves  may  have  been  filled 
up  embodying  these  deposits.  Those,  who  have  made  them, 
selves  conversant  with  caves  and  deep  wrought  mines,  in. 
form  us  that  such  subterranean  rivers  do  exist,  and  that  such 
changes  take  place. 

There  are  various  ways  by  which  great  and  important 
changes  may  and  have  taken  place  in  the  earth,  since  its 
creation,  and  fossil  deposits  made  without  disturbing  very 
materially,  the  residence  of  man  more  than  it  has  been  dis. 
turbed,  long  since  his  creation.      Immense  changes  may 


6E0L00T. 


221 


have  taken  place,  by  gradual  and  tranquil  subsidence  and 
elevation,  so  as  to  have  occasioned  but  very  little  derange- 
ment of  strata,  and  between  them  there  may  have  been  long 
periods  of  repose.  At  other  times  and  places  subterranean 
agencies  have  produced  subsidences  and  elevations  with  such 
sudden  violence  as  to  produce  great  dislocations  and  confu- 
sion in  strata  and  fossil  remains.  Mountains  and  islands 
have  been  thrown  up,  and  portions  of  the  same  series  of 
strata  have  been  submerged  and  elevated  at  different  peri- 
ods of  time  ;  and  parts  of  the  present  continents  may  have 
become  dry  land  at  different  periods.  So  that  we  have  no 
means  of  ascertaining,  that  similar  rocks  of  distant  districts 
were  formed  at  the  same  time.  Why,  according  to  these  sen- 
timents, or  perhaps  it  may  be  said,  great  truths,  and  which 
are  admitted  by  geologists,  need  we  depart  from  the  obvious 
meaning  of  the  term  day,  as  used  by  Moses  in  recording 
the  work  of  creation  1  Why  could  not  such  changes  have 
fr.ken  place  after  the  creation  of  man,  and  man  in  the  prov- 
idence  of  God,  without  a  miracle,  be  preserved  in  safety  ? 
It  is  said,  that  Hhe  calcareous  mountains  of  Jura  and  the 
outer  range  of  the  Alps,  at  the  height  of  six  or  eight  thou- 
sand feet,  contain  beds  filled  with  the  remains  of  marine 
animals;  that  similar  phenomena  are  found  in  the  secon- 
dary strata  in  England,  also  in  the  calcareous  mountains  of 
the  Pyrenees ;  and  organic  remains  are  found  at  the  height 
of  fourteen  thousand  feet  in  the  Andes ;  and  that  the  dis- 
tinct characters  of  these  animals  prove  that  they  were  not 
brought  into  their  present  situation  by  any  sudden  inunda- 
tions. Let  these  facts  take  place  as  they  may,  and  by  causes 
unknown  to  us,  yet  it  is  dithcult  to  see  how  they  prove  that 
[man  might  not  have  existed  before  they  transpired.  And 
the  admittance  of  geologists  that  many  portions  of  the  con- 
Itinent,  at  different  periods  of  time,  may  have  been  sub- 
merged, and  again  raised,  and  some  parts  in  the  mean  time 

become  dry  land,  only  increases  the  difficulty  of  seeing  how 
19* 


I 


■■■■>v  ^^ 


;v  ,> 


I'i  Up'- 


«.** ; 


1 1  1  *^. 


f 


'it  ';|. 


* 

-*«rU  '^ 

•'  I. 


4      f 


^ 


222 


GEOLOGY. 


'>^X" 


i 


.•:«v, 


:;  f- 


^m  ri:  ■»*>#»  •^■.■. . ' 


t,0.r, 


I'jR't  *    '•'ff':^''-" 
III  ;>"'..■*>/   ■'>"■■'    ■ 


"  we  deny  the  evidence  of  our  senses,  if  we  believe  man  was 
created  before  many  generations  of  animals  and  plants 
had  lived  and  died." 

It  is  said,  many  remains  of  animals  arc  embedded  in  solid 
rocks.  And  could  not  man  have  lived  upon  the  earth,  when 
these  deposits  and  petrifactions  were  taking  place  ?  The 
work  of  petrifaction  has  not  ceased  to  operate,  though  man 
has  long  existed. 

May  not  the  order  of  organic  fossil  remains  depend  upon 
the  longevity  of  animals  and  plants,  and  not  upon  long 
epochs  of  time  in  creation  ?  In  relation  to  this  let  us  examine 
the  historical  account  of  the  creation  in  the  scriptures.  On 
the  first  day  of  creation  God  divided  light  from  darkness. 
On  the  second.  He  formed  the  firmanent.  The  third  day, 
He  caused  dry  land  to  appear,  and  vegetation  to  spring 
forth.  On  the  fourth.  He  created  the  planets  and  stars.  The 
fifth,  the  inhabitants  of  the  sea,  and  winged  fowls.  The 
sixth,  animals,  and  also  man ;  and  He  rested  and  sanctified 
the  seventh  day.  In  this  order  plants  were  formed  previ. 
ous  to  animals.  But  in  geological  surveys,  zoophite  animals, 
such  as  madrepores  and  encrinites,  are  found  dispersed 
abundantly,  with  a  few  of  the  most  frail  plants  in  the  trans. 
ition  formation,  which  is  the  first  containing  organic  re. 
mains.   --  :'   ■^'   -  .    :  .',■.■ 

God  said  on  the  fifth  day,  let  the  waters  bring  forth  abun. 
dantly  the  moving  creature  that  hath  life.  But  the  terra  | 
"  moving  creature"  does  not  necessarily  imply  locomotion, 
Madrepores  and  encrinites,  which  greatly  abound,  have  the  | 
power  of  motion,  though  not  from  place  to  place.  These 
ephemeral  animals  are  found  abundantly,  with  a  few  frail 
plants,  in  the  transition  strata,  and  but  few  of  any  other 
organic  bodies.  But  in  the  next  formation,'which  is  the  low. 
est  series  of  the  secondary,  plants  are  numerous,  and  the  most 
so  of  any  other  relics.  Now  if  each  day  of  the  creation 
was  a  long  epoch  of  indefinite  duration,  why  are  not  plcmisi 


0E0L06T. 


223 


which  were  created  before  animals,  found  chiefly  if  not  en- 

jtirely,  predominating  in  the  transition  formation  ? 

But  if  the  days  of  creation  were  what  is  commonly  un- 
^rstood  by  natural  days,  and  the  order  of  fossil  deposits 
depends  upon  the  longevity  of  organic  life,  and  not  upon 
periods  of  time,  then  madrepores  and  encrinites  may  be  dis- 
persed in  great  abundance,  with  some  few  of  the  frailest 
plants,  in  the  first  geological  strata,  containing  such  re- 
mains, although  not  created  until  the  fifth  day. 

Some  moUusca,  chiefly  bivalves  are  also  found  in  the 
transition.  And  although  their  lives,  generally,  may  be 
longer  than  many  plants,  yet  it  is  not  strange  from  their 
habits,  that  they  should  be  in  a  lower  formation,  than  where 
vegetables  are  often  found.     The  moUusca,  however,  are 

Lore  generally  in  the  upper  series  of  the  secondary  strata. 
Vertebra  ted  animals  such  as  flshes,  reptiles,  birds,  and  quad- 
rupeds, are  rarely  found  in  the  transition ;  but  they  appear 
in  greater  numbers  in  the  secondary;  and  still  more  nu- 
merous in  higher  formations.  And  in  the  tertiary,  are  the 
fossil  remains  of  the  mastodon,  the  hippopotamus,  the  rhi- 
noceros, the  elephant,  and  the  whale.  The  same  order  is 
observable  in  plants.  The  firm  and  long  lived,  such  as 
trees  are  rarely  found  below  the  tertiary  and  alluvial  forma- 

Itions.     So  the  order  of  fossil  organic  remains,  both  of  plants 
d  animals,  evidently  proceeds  from  the  frail  to  the  more 

holid;  from  those  of  shorter  lives  to  those  of  longer,  and 
the  principles  of  longevity,  according  to  the  intermixture  of 

Ifossil  remains,  more  consistently  account  for  fossil  order, 
than  long  epochs  of  time.     And*if  so.  then  in  taking  the 

Imost  obvious  meaning  of  the  scriptures,  we  take  the  most 

[rational  and  consistent  way  to  account  for  geological  phe- 


lD0in3na. 


It  is  true  the  terra  day  in  the  scriptures  is  sometimes  used 
to  express  an  indefinite  length  of  time,  as  in  Genesis  ii.  4  : 
In  the  day  that  the  Lord  God  made  the  earth  and  the  heav- 


•>:  .  - 


!? 


i  V  ,-»■• 


J  f.  .»' 


•1-      ■      .  . 

Ii,    :■;•'  ■    '    '' 


■■*  .f- 


kV       ill- 


11- 


l'-T^:ii.>:<.' 


H'^i 


mm 


•■•'■  ■  <• 


Iff  W'-^ 


*,"i  . 


■    :> 
'    II 


I        ;   ><  •    ■     .'■    ■ 


* 


III'    '  '. 


M:i-im- 


224 


OEOLOOY. 


ens."     John  viii.  56:  "Your  father  Abraham  rejoiced  to 
see  my  day.''     Job  xiv.  6  :  "  Till  he  shall  accomplish  as  an 
hireling  his  day,''     To  prevent  any  such  understandinff  of 
the  word  day,  it  seems  the  inspired  writer  uses  a  particular 
precaution  in  giving  an  account  of   the  creation  of  the 
world,  to  confine  the  word  day  to  a  definite  period.     "  The 
evening  and  the  morning  was  the  first  day."     And  the  same 
phraseology  is  used   with  all  the  days,  including  the  seventh 
which  was  sanctified,  and  which  is  recognized  in  the  ten 
commandments.      Why  this  particular  caution  in  limiting 
the  term  day,  if  it  was  to  be  taken  for  an  indefinite  length, 
a  caution  which  is  not  used  in  any  other  part  of  the  scrip. 
tures,  and  in  no  other  part  was  so  much  needed.* 

It  does  not  follow  from  the  point  of  view  above  stated, 
thus  the  fossil  deposits  and  strata  formations  were  coraple. 
ted  in  a  few  natural  days.  The  subsidence  of  the  materials 
of  the  several  formations,  and  the  fossils  found  in  them,  might 
have  occupied  a  long  period  of  time,  and  the  work  has  not 
yet  ceased.  Different  portions  of  the  earth,  by  subterrane.j 
an  agencies,  might  have  been  submerged  and  again  elevated; 
changes  in  various  ways  might  have  taken  place  in  accor- 
dance with  physical  laws  ;  and  together  with  these,  tiie  in- 
undation of  the  flood  performed  its  part  in  bringing  the| 
world  into  its  present  condition.  While  there  is  an  observ- 
able order  in  fossil  deposits,  yet  there  is  an  intermixture,  for 
which  it  is  very  difiicult  to  account  on  the  theory,  that  the] 
days  of  creation  were  long  epochs,  in  each  of  which  ccr. 
tain  animals  and  plants  were  created,  and  from  which,  inl 


each  ep 
strata  ft 
if  we  ii 

licve  thi 
the  orde; 
of  each 
life;  anc 
see  how, 
order  of 
There 

iad  lived 
1  sinn< 
»as  by  c 
I  by  sin, 
lion  have 
of  man's  ( 
earth,  so  * 
pain  togei 
thistles  in 
same  reasc 
tor  the  sar 
tion  of  ur 
struction 
rebelhon 
fore  death 
1st  and  die 
I  see  n( 
?y.  or  find 
is  always 


*  After  writinfj  the  above,  I  road  Professor  Jumeson's  critical  exnmin 
ation  of  the  Htibrew  terms,  used  in  the  first  chapter  of  Genesis^  and  wai 
happy  to  find  so  much  coincidence  of  his  views  with  mine,  in  regard  to  iheHfonize,  a 
order  of  creation  and  fossil  deposits  of  plants  and  animals,  from  •belowmi  ^j 

er  and  more  fraU,  to  the  higher  and  more  durable;  although  his  views ufB      ""J?'>  « 
this  order  were  used  to  estuhlish  his  belief  in  long  periods  ol  time,  yctB(})(>  scienc 
they  confirmed  my  b( '  ef,  that  I  had  not  taken  a  mwtnken  view  of  .'1'4 
subject,  viz:  that  the  order  of  fossil  deposits  depends  upon  the  loogevityJ'fctly  wnn 
as  a  general  rule,  of  plants  and  ttnimaw.  Mj^.     1  . 


•M ':  1 


GBOLOOY. 


225 


each  epoch,  certain  fossils  were  deposited  in  their  several 
strata  formations.  But  this  difficulty  is  not  found  to  exist, 
if  we  take  the  obvious  meaning  of  the  scriptures,  and  be- 
lieve that  longevity  might  have  done  much  to  bring  about 
the  order  of  organic  fossils.  Durability  does  not  fix  the  age 
of  each  individual  animal  and  plant,  but  a  general  order  of 
life;  and  therefore  on  the  principles  of  longevity,  we  can 
see  how,  that  while  there  is  a  mixture,  there  is  also  a  general 
order  of  fossils. 

There  is  another  difficulty  in  admitting  that  "  man  was 
net  created  until  many  generations  of  plants  and  animals 
bad  lived  and  died."  The  earth  was  not  cursed  till  man 
had  sinned,  and  it  was  then  cursed  for  his  sake.  Also  it 
I  was  by  one  man  that  sin  entered  into  the  world,  and  death 
by  sin.  It  is  not  to  be  understood  that  the  irrational  crea- 
tion have  sinned,  and  therefore  die  ;  but  as  a  consequence 
of  man's  disobedience,  the  curse  of  God  came  on  the  whole 
earth,  so  "  that  the  whole  creation  groaneth  and  travaileth  in 
pain  together  until  now, "  The  earth  produces  thorns  and 
iliistles  in  consequence  of  the  apostacy  of  man.  For  the 
same  reason  the  world  has  been  desolated  by  the  flood  ;  and 
for  the  same  cause  is  now  reserved  unto  fire,  and  the  perdi- 
tion of  ungodly  men.  It  is  very  evident  that  all  the  de- 
struction and  misery  in  the  world  arc  consequent  upon  the 
Irebellion  of  man,  and  if  so,  sin  entered  into  the  world  be- 
Ifore  death  and  the  curse,  and  animated  nature  did  not  ex- 
|ist  and  die  long  before  man  was  created. 

I  see  no  reason  why  any  one  should  be  sceptical  in  geolo- 
Igy,  or  find  from  it  any  reason  to  doubt  the  scriptures.  Truth 
lis  always  consistent,  and  the  word  and  works  of  God  har- 
Imonize,  and  all  that  is  necessary  to  sec  their  harmony  is  a 
Itliorough  acquaintance  with  both.  Comparatively  speaking 
IiIk'  science  of  geology  is  of  recent  origin,  and  is  butimper- 
Ifectly  understood,  and  until  our  knowledge  is  more  exten- 
sive, let  us  reason  and  infer  with  caution. 


.     ■  *     .1-  *      . 

*4:'--   •■..K'>.;*' r' 
'iii4L  v.    .  ■.*k  -  r  »  I 


,.,,...*),■ 

4'  ,(j 


*•■  'H: 


•Jr-v  U  •'. 


f.  ■■■■         ■  ?    ■       ;  ' 


226 


GEOLOGY. 


*r< 


-  - 


1^*-.^  *  "  ■-■■ 


#  * 


b  >(.,■« 


From  careful  examination  of  the  geological  condition  of  j 
this  country  I  have  been  led  to  conclude,  that  the  great  vol. 
canic  fires  continued  in  operation  through  a  long  period  of 
time  and  in  many  series  of  operations.      On  examining  1 
bluffs,  or  perpendicular  banks  of  rivers  and  mountains,  I 
have  numbered  from  between  ten  and  twenty  different  strata  I 
of  amygdaloid,  basalt,  and  breccia.     These  appear  to  be 
thrown   up  through  dykes,  or  through  craters,  rising  in  dif. 
ferent  succession  one  above  another.     In  some  places  thel 
lowest  formation  was  pudding  stone,  above  this  amygdaloidj 
then  a  stratum  of  angular  fragments  of  basalt  and  amygda.l 
loid,  and  someti  les  intermixed  with  lava,  which  may  bej 
called  breccia  ;  and  over  these,  basalt,  frequently  in  reguJ 
lar  pentagons,  which  vary  in  size  from  one  to  five  feet  ii 
diameter,  and  in  regular  articulated  sections;    and  upon 
the  basalt  another  stratum  of  breccia  ;  and  again  upon  thes 
is  superimposed  another  stratum  of  basalt,  or  in  some  case 
amygdaloid ;  and  in  the  same  manner  strata  above  strata 
in  some  places  to  twenty  in  number.     These  strata  vary  in 
depth  from  a  very  few  feet  to  thirty  or  forty  ;  and  the  whole 
series  rising  from  two  to  five  hundred  feet.     In  some  locaJ 
tions  the  number  of  strata  are  f!e\v.      The  section  of  tlia 
broken  but  consolidated  fragments,  laying  between  the  reguJ 
larly  formed  basalt,  or  the  amygdaloid,  is  generally  only 
very  few  feet  in  thickness.      This  presents  the  appearanc 
of  having  been  the  surface  for  a  long  period  of  time,  until 
a  partial  disintegration  and  decomposition  had  taken  place 
after  which  a  new  eruption  superimposed  another  stratuiii 
of  basalt,  or  amygdaloid.     Thus  it  appears,  that  the  intcrj 
nal  fires  have  had  intervals  of  repose,  and  then  again  hav^ 
Bent  forth  their  volcanic  substances.     The  probability  a 
that  they  were  thus  in  operation  for  centuries,  but  for  cenj 
turics  past  have  ceased;  so  that  time  has  been  given  forutj 
mospheric  agencies  to  decompose  the  volcanic  productions 
fiufficiently  to  form  a  soil  covering  most  parts  of  tlie  coui 


% 


r.    ■  f 


i    ■      ■■.■*■' 


GEOLOGY. 


227 


Itrv  excepting  the  great  desert  in  the  Shoshones  country,  lay- 
ing between  two  ranges  of  mountains,  extending  three  hun- 
Ujed  miles  from  the  south-east  to  the  north-west,  a  id  one 
kiindred  miles  in  width.  It  is  not  to  he  understood,  that 
tiere  is  no  other  soil  in  the  Oregon  country.  In  some  parts 
I  there  are  sections  of  argillaceous  earth  ;  in  some  other  parts 
a  sandy  and  gravely  soil;  but  far  the  greatest  part  pre- 
|«ents  evidences  of  igneous  power. 

The  enquiry  naturally  arises  in  the  mind,  whether  it  may 
[not  be  on  account  of  the  great  internal  fires  of  this  country 

liat  the  climate  is  so  aiuch  warmer  on  the  west  side  of 
[tlie  great  mountains,  than  on  the  east.     It  is  an  interest- 

ind  tact,  that  the  eastern  side  of  North  America  is  the  cold- 
lesiof  any  part  of  the  world  in  the  same  latitude  ;  and  the 

western  side  is  the  warmest  part  of  the  world  in  the  same 
llatitude.  And  may  this  not  arise  from  the  comparatively 
[recent  volcanic  fires,  which  pervaded  about  the  whole  region 
lof  the  setting  sun  ? 


¥"*  ■ 

•     ■  ,         .  n."  «'»»•■  - 

t  ■'  .  ■   '   ■  f       .' 


-  "1    .-     •■V 


•'*: 


, "i'  r  ». 


„' 


."■■T. 


.-r  I'' 


;•  iii: 


'M '  *  "'■ 


|-|-,.1.H.. 


I  n  .  k 


228 


CHARACTER  AND  CONDITION  OF  INDIANS. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Character  and  condition  of  the  Indians— Indians  of  the  plains— their 
persons— dress — wealth — habits — physical  character — manufactures— 
their  religion— wars — vices—moral  disposition— superstitions— medi-  j 
cine  men. 

As  it  was  the  principal  object  of  my  tour  to  ascertain  the] 
character  and  condition  of  the  Indians  beyond  the  Rockyj 
Mountains^  their  numbers,  and  prospects  of  estabhshing  tliej 
gospel  among  them,  it  will  not  only  be  proper  but  importantj 
to  give  a  full  and  connected  description  of  these  particulars,) 
In  doing  this,  while  I  have  availed  myself  of  information 
collected  from  men  of  intelligence  and  integrity,  yet  I  have 
confined  my  statements  to  those  things  which  have  been 
corroborated  by^  or  came  undcr^  my  own  observations ;  feel^ 
ing  it  a  duty  to  avoid  the  many  fabulous  accounts  whicli 
have  been  given  of  Indian  character  and  customs.     Ro^ 
tnance  may  please  and  excite  admiration,  fiction  ma^ 
charm,  but  only  truth  can  instruct. 

I  shall  first  describe  the  Indians  of  the  plains.  These! 
live  in  the  upper  country  from  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia  td 
tiie  Rocky  Mountains,  and  are  called  the  Indians  of  m 
plains,  because  a  large  proportion  of  their  country  is  prairij 
land.  The  principal  tribes  are  the  Nez  Perces,  Cayuses 
Walla  Wallas,  Bonax,  Shoshones,  Spokeins,  FlatheadiJ 
Coeur  De  Lions,  Ponderas,  Cootanies,  Kettlefalls,  Okana 
gans,  and  Carriers.  These  do  not  include  probably  mor 
than  one  half  of  those  east  of  the  Falls,  but  of  others 
have  obtained  but  little  definite  knowledge^     These  all  k 


h    ih'  ' 


COSTUMfi. 


229 


semble  eaCh  other  in  general  characteristics.  In  their  per- 
5ons  the  men  are  tall,  the  women  are  of  common  stature, 
md  both  men  and  women  are  well  formed.  While  there  is 
a  strong  natural  as  well  as  moral  resemblance  among  all  In- 
dians, the  complexion  of  these  is  much  the  same  as  other 
Indians,  excepting  a  little  fairer.  Their  hair  and  eyes  are 
black,  their  cheek  bones  high,  and  very  frequently  they  have 
aquiline  noses.  Their  hands,  feet,  and  ancles,  are  small  and 
well  formed ;  and  their  movements  arc  easy,  if  not  graceful. 
They  wear  their  hair  long,  part  it  upon  their  forehead,  and 
let  it  hang  in  tresses  on  each  side,  or  down  behind. 

There  is  a  great  resemblance  in  their  dress,  which  gen- 
erally consists  of  a  shirt,  worn  over  long,  close  leggins,  with 
•noccasons  for  their  feet.  These  are  of  dressed  leather 
made  of  the  skins  of  deer,  antelope,  and  mountain  goats 
and  sheep ;  and  over  these  they  wear  a  blanket  or  buffalo 
robe.  The  borders  of  their  garments  are  ornamented  with 
long  fringes,  after  the  manner  of  the  ancient  Jews.  They 
tG  fond  of  ornaments,  and  according  to  their  means,  their 
heads  and  garments  are  decorated  with  feathers,  beads,  but- 
tons, and  porcupine  quills  ;  the  last  of  which  are  colored 
red,  yellow,  blue,  and  black,  and  worked  with  great  skill 
and  variety  of  design.  They  appear  to  have  less  of  the 
propensity  to  adorn  themselves  with  painting,  than  the  In- 
dians east  of  the  mountains ;  but  still  at  their  toilet,  vermil- 
ion,  mixed  with  red  clay,  is  used  not  only  upon  their  faces, 
I  but  also  upon  their  hair.  The  dress  of  the  women  does  not 
[  vary  much  from  the  men,  excepting,  that  instead  of  the  shirt, 
they  have  what  may  be  called  a  frock  coming  down  to  the 
ancles.  Many  of  them  wear  a  laf  ge  cape  made  of  the  same 
material,  and  often  highly  ornamented  with  large  oblong 
beads  of  blue,  red,  purple,  and  white,  arranged  in  curved 
lines  covering  the  whole.  Some  of  the  daughters  of  the 
chiefs,  when  clothed  in  their  clean,  white  dres^ses  made  of 

Untelope  skins,  with  their  fully  ornamented  capes  coming 
20 


W'^ 


•^  :^'"> 


lifl' 


^'S 


i 


230 


TttEIR  WEALTH. 


R.-'.  t-'L  ■,"■•.  V'j;-  • 
li  ■■  -,1       /'■   ■    ~  *    ■■ 


down  to  the  waist,  and  mounted  upon  spirited  steeds,  going 
at  full  speed,  their  ornaments  glittering  in  the  sun-beams 
make  an  appearance  that  would  not  lose  in  comparison  with 
equestrian  ladies  of  the  east. 

Their  horses  are  not  less  finely  caparisoned  with  blue  and 
scarlet  trimmings  about  their  heads,  breasts,  and  loins,  hung 
with  little  braids  bells. 

While  a  want  of  cleanliness  is  a  characteristic  of  all  hea. 
then,  the  Indians  of  the  plains  are  less  reprehensible  than 
others,  and  far  more  neat  than  those  of  the  lower  country  to- 
ward  the  Pacific.  It  is  not  to  be  understood  that  there  are 
not  those  who  are  poor,  suffering  from  the  want  of  food  and 
clothing. 

Their  wealth  consists  in  their  horses,  and  in  a  great  de. 
gree  their  consequence  upon  the  number  they  possess ;  some 
owning  several  hundreds  ;  and  that  family  is  poor  whose 
numbers  are  not  sufficient  for  every  man,  woman,  and  child 
to  be  mounted,  when  they  are  traveling  from  place  to  place  ; 
and  also  to  carry  all  their  efiects.  In  these  respects  they  I 
are  far  better  supplied  than  any  tribes  I  saw  east  of  the  | 
mountains.  While  their  horses  are  their  wealth,  they  de. 
rive  but  little  from  them  for  the  support  of  themselves  and  I 
families ;  for  they  do  not  employ  them  to  cultivate  the  earth; 
and  the  market  for  them  is  so  low,  that  they  command  but 
a  small  price.  A  good  horse  will  not  sell  for  more  than 
enough  to  purchase  a  blanket,  or  a  few  small  articles  of  mer* 
chandize.  For  subsistence,  they,  of  necessity,  depend  upon 
hunting  and  fishing,  and  gathering  roots  and  berries.  Their 
mode  of  cooking  is  plain  and  simple.  Most  of  their  food 
is  roasted,  and  they  excel  in  roasting  fish.  The  process  is 
to  build  in  the  centre  of  their  lodge  a  small  fire,  to  fix  the 
fish  upon  a  stick  two  feet  long,  and  to  place  one  end  in  the 
ground  so  as  to  bring  the  fish  partly  over  the  fire,  and  then! 
by  a  slow  process  it  is  most  thoroughly  roasted  without  aDyj 
scorching,  or  scarcely  changing  the  color.    The  princij 


.r-. 


•^jr 


HABITS. 


231 


art  consists  in  taking  time,  and  our  best  cooks  might  im- 
prove by  following  their  mode. 

Their  habits.  The  habits  of  Indians  are  said  to  be  indo- 
lent. As  a  general  remark  it  may  be  true,  but  I  saw  but 
very  little  to  confirm  its  truth  among  the  Indians  of  the 
plains ;  for  I  rarely  saw  any  of  these  Indians  without  their  be- 
ing engaged  in  some  object  of  pursuit ;  not  the  most  produc- 
tive, perhaps,  but  such  as  enlisted  their  attention.  While  I  be- 
lieve in  the  striking  resemblance,  both  physical  and  moral, 
of  all  the  different  nations  and  tribes  of  Indians  spread  over 
large  portions  of  the  continent  of  America,  more  so  than  is 
seen  in  any  people  of  any  other  country  of  equal  extent,  yet 
if  it  is  true,  that  as  a  general  fact,  they  are  morose  and 
gloomy  in  their  countenances;  sullen,  or  bachanalian  in 
their  dispositions ;  that  they  are  rarely  so  joyful  as  to  laugh, 
unless  excited  by  ardent  spirits ;  that  they  are  taciturn  and 
never  indulge  in  mirth ;  that  they  are  obtuse  in  sympathy, 
and  destitute  of  social  affections ;  that  in  proud  disdain 
they  turn  away  from  whatever  would  excite  curiosity ;  that 
no  common  motives  or  endearments  excite  them  to  action ; 
if  these  things  are  true,  then  the  Indians  in  the  Oregon 
Territory  are  an  exception  to  the  general  fact.  In  all  the 
above  named  particulars,  I  saw  no  special  difference  between 
them  and  other  nations.  As  a  part  of  the  human  family, 
they  have  the  same  natural  propensities  and  the  same  social 
affections.  They  are  cheerful  and  often  gay,  sociable,  kind, 
and  affectionate ;  and  anxious  to  receive  instruction  in  what- 
ever may  conduce  to  their  happiness  here  or  hereafter.  It 
is  worse  than  idle  to  speak  of  "  physical  insensibility  in- 
wrought into  the  animal  nature  of  the  Indians,  so  that  their 
bodies  approximate  to  the  insensibility  of  horses'  hoofs." 
The  influence  of  this  kind  of  remarks  is  to  produce,  in  the 
bosoms  of  all  who  read  them,  the  same  insensibility  which 
is  charged  upon  the  native  character  of  the  Indians.  To 
represent  their  characters  and  their  restoration  to  the  com- 


"11 


V  I*;.-, 
.••ir-: 

7^   • 


%1 


^ 


vt,.  i;'*:'^:. 


:-?> 


■  J 


'I 


^•r 


2S2 


MANUFACTURES. 


C- a'  ■■'.'*'**■  ■         : 


-■'i*^ 


if^. 


'^  '    »-    \    ,       *  '*   i    *,*  . -^  '1 

■;•■.  '4:     '«».t  ;?*■  v 


}|r*jsr;.(.f!,:  -x*--*"^'     ■:■■■ 


mon  feelings  of  humanity  so  hopeless,  is  to  steel  the  heart 
of  even  Christianity  itself,  if  it  were  possible,  against  all 
sympathy,  and  to  paralize  all  exertions  and  effort  to,  save 
them  from  the  two-fold  destruction  to  which  they  doom  them 
temporal  and  eternal.  Is  this  the  reason  that  christians 
are  sitting  in  such  supineness  over  their  condition,  and  the 
heart-thrilling  appeals  from  them  for  teachers  to  enlighten 
themi  Ivak  this  the  reason,  that  while  the  philanthropy  of 
the  United  States'  citizens  towards  them  is  so  widely  bla. 
zoned,  that  those,,  who  are  sent  to  teach  them  the  arts  of  civ- 
ilized life,.are  sitting  quiet  on  the  borders  in  governmental  pay, 
while  the  Indians  are  roaming  still  over  the  prairies  in 
search  of  uncertain  and  precarious  game  ?  I  forbear  to  tell 
the  story. 

They  have  but  a  few  manufactures,  and  those  few  are  the 
most  plain  and  simple,  not  extending  much  beyond  dressing 
the  skins  of  animals,  and  making  them  into  clothing;  male, 
ing  bows  and  arrows  and  some  few  articles  of  furni. 
ture.  In  dressing  their  skins  they  never  make  any  use  of 
bark,  or  tannin  in  any  way.  Their  process,  is.  to  remove 
the  hair  and  flesh  from  the  skins  by  sesaping  them  with  a 
hard  stone  or  wood,  or,  when  it  can  bo  obtained^  a  piece  of 
iron  hoop,  and  then  besmearing  them  with  the  brains  of  some 
animal,  they  smoke  them  thoroughly  and  rub  them  until 
they  are  soft ;  and  after  this  bleach  them  with  pure  white 
clay.  Their  mode  of  smoking,  is  to  dig  or  excavate  a  small 
place  in  the  ground,  about  a  foot  deep,  and  over  this  to  con. 
struct  a  small  fixture  in  the  form  of  a  lodge,  a  few  feet  wide 
at  the  base  and  brought  to  a  point  at  the  top.  Then  they 
build  a  small  fire  in  the  centre,  and  place  the  skins  around 
upon  the  frame  work,  so  as  to  make  the  enclosure  almost 
smoke  tight.  The  process  occupies  about  one  day.  Their 
mode  of  dressing  bufialo  robes  is  different.  It  is  by  stretch- 
ing  the  skin  upon  the  ground,  flesh  side  up,  fastening  it 
down  with  pins  around  the  border.     Then  with  an  instru,. 


■'J  \.K 


lit' }, 

5  ■'\i-7  >•  ■ 


'v'li 


MANUFACTURES. 


233 


ment  formed  somewhat  like  a  cooper's  adz,  made  of  stone,  or 
^o(A  overlaid  with  a  piece  of  iron,  brought  to  a  blunt  edge 
like  the  currier's  knife,  they  clear  from  it  all  remaining  flesh 
and  let  it  thoroughly  dry.  After  this,  with  the  same  in- 
strument, they  work  upon  it  with  a  pounding,  hewing  stroke, 
until  they  have  brought  it  to  a  suitable  thickness  and  ren- 
dered it  soft  and  white,  in  the  same  condition  as  our  buffalo 
robes  are,  when  brought  into  market.  It  is  a  work  of  great 
labor  performed  by  the  women.  We  little  think  how  much 
toil  it  costs  a  woman  to  prepare  one  of  these  robes,  and  then 
how  little  is  paid  for  it  by  the  purchaser ;  a  pound  of  tobacco 
or  a  bunch  of  beads,  is  as  much  as  the  Indian  generally  re- 
ceives. 

Their  bows  are  made  of  the  most  elastic  wood,  strength- 
ened with  the  tendons  of  animals,  glued  upon  the  back  side,. 
and  a  string  made  of  the  same  substance.  Their  arrows 
are  made  of  heavy  wood,  with  one  end  tipped  with  a  sharps 
stone  or  pointed  iron,  and  the  other  end  pinnated  with  a 
feather.  While  the  first  is  to  pierce,  the  latter  is  to  govern; 
the  direction.  Their  bows  and  arrows  perform  astonishing 
I  execution,  and  they  manage  them  with  great  dexterity. 

Most  of  their  cooking  utensils,  which  they  now  use,  are 
I  obtained  from  traders^  These  do  not  often  extend  beyond 
a  brass  kettle,  tin  pail,  and  a  very  few  knives.  They  have 
bowls  which  they  manufacture  very  ingeniously  from  the 
horns  of  buffalo ;  and  sometimes,  those  that  are  larger  and 
more  solid,  from  the  horns  of  the  big  horn  mountain  sheep. 
They  have  spoons  of  very  good  structure  made  of  buffalo 
horns;  also  they  have  various  kinds  of  baskets  of  rude 
workmanship..  Their  saddles  are  rude,  somewhat  resembling 
tile  Spanish  saddle,  having  a  high  knob  forward,  and  rising 
high  on  the  back  part ;  generally  sitting  uneasy  upon  the 
horse's  back.  Their  bridles  are  only  a  rope  well  made  of 
|hair,  or  the  shag  of  the  buffalo,  fastened  to  the  under  jaw  of 

horsey  very  long,  so  as  to  form  the  lasso ;  this  is  so  coiled 

ao* 


iiiffw^'ir*'--  ■■■■■  ■  . 


■?4'^:-^- 


f:'*--')^' 


t? 


234 


SELIOIOTT. 


,.» ;, 


M-?: 


M 


III  ,,,M,t,-*.  -.iiVj^-,;.  ,,■ 


:i    B  ;'V^'  ■•-■•Itir-.  '        • 


in  the  hand  as  to  form  a  noose  when  thrown  over  the  horse's 
head,  which  is  done  very  dexterously  ;  and  when  they  are 
mounted,  the  rope,  or  leather  thong  which  is  often  used  in  its 
place,  trails  along  upon  the  ground.  This  is  often  left  upon 
the  horse's  nock,  when  he  is  turned  out  for  a  short  time  to 
feed,  for  the  convenience  of  more  easily  catching  hira. 

Their  canoes,  before  they  obtained  iron  hatchets  of  the 
traders,  were,  with  great  labor  and  patience  made  with  hatch, 
ets  of  stone  ;  and  even  now,  it  is  with  no  small  effort.  A 
canoe  of  good  construction  is  valued  as  high  as  one  or  two 
good  horses.  Their  fishing  nets  are  another  article  which  is 
well  constructed,  formed  of  wild  flax ;  and  in  every  partic- 
ular  like  our  scoop  nets. 

As  regards  the  religion  of  the  Indians,  we  have  already 
stated  in  tracing  their  resemblance  to  the  ancient  Jews,  that 
they  believe  in  one  God,  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  and 
in  future  rewards  and  punishments*     But  while  these  are 
the  prominent  points  of  their  belief^  their  definite  ideas  of  | 
a  religious  nature  appear  to  be  extremely  limited,  both  in 
number  and  in  comprehensiveness*     As  much  as  this,  how. 
ever,  appears  to  be  true.    They  believe  in  one  Great  Spirit,  i 
who  has  created  all  things,  governs  dl  important  events, 
and  who  is  the  author  of  ail  good ;  and  who  is  the  onlyob. 
ject  of  religious  homage.     They  believe  he  may  be  dis. 
pleased  with  them  for  their  bad  conduct,  and  in  his  displeas. 
ure  bring  calamities  upon  them.     They  also  believe  in  an 
evil  spirit,  whom  they  call  cmim  A:cweA;i  meoJiot  cinmo-cimo;\ 
that  is,  the  black  chief  below,  who  is  the  author  of  all  evils 
which  befall  them,  undeserved  as  a  punishment  frwn  the 
Great  Spirit  above.      They  believe  in  the  immortality  ofj 
the  soul,  that  it  enters  the  future  world  with  a  similar  form, 
and  in  like  circunistances  to  those  under  which  it  existed] 
in  this  life.     They  believe  that  in  a  future  state,  the  happi. 
ness  of  the  good  consists  in  an  abundance  and  enjoymentl 
of  those  things  which  they  value  here,  that  their  presenti 


TRADITIONS. 


335 


sources  of  happiness  will  be  carried  to  perfection  ;  and 
that  the  punishment  of  the  bad  will  consist  in  entire  exclu> 
sion  from  every  source  of  happiness,  and  in  finding  all 
causes  of  misery  here,  greatly  multiplied  hereafter.  Thus 
their  ideas  of  future  happiness  and  misery  are  found  to  vary 
according  to  their  different  situations  and  employments  in 
life.  It  is  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  ascertain  any  thing 
of  their  religious  belief  beyond  these  general  notions.  The 
number  of  words  and  terms  in  their  language  expressive  of 
abstract  and  spiritual  ideas,  is  very  small,  so  that  those* 
who  wish  to  instruct  them  in  these  subjects,  are  compelled 
to  do  it  by  means  of  illustrations  and  circumlocutions,  and' 
the- introduction  of  words  from  foreign  languages.  Besides, 
conscious  of  their  ignorance,  they  ar«,  for  the  most  part, 
unwilling  to  expose  it,  by  revealing  the  little  knowledge 
which  they  posses.  Indeed,  wherever  a  feeUng  of  igno- 
rance upon  any  subject  prevails,  we  find  that  all  endeavors 
to  elicit  the  true  amount  of  knowledge^,  are  repelled  or  eva- 
ded. Even  men  of  talents  and  education,  who  converse 
fluently  upon  most  subjects,  are  often  silent  when  religious 
topics  are  introduced.. 

I  am  j^r  from  believing  the  many  long  and  strange  tradi- 
tions, with  which  we  are  often  entertained-  It  '3  more  than 
probable^  that  they  are  in  nu)st  instances  the  gratuitous  of- 
ferings of  designing  and  artful  traders  and  hunters  to  that 
curiosity,  which  is  ever  awake  and  attentive  to  subjects  of 
this  description.  The  Indians  themselves  would  often  be 
as  much  surprised  at  the  rehearsal  of  these  traditions,  as 
those  are,,  for  whose  amusement  they  are  fabricated.. 

My  own  opinion  is  confirmed  by  that  of  several  gentlemen 
of  integrity  and  veracity,  who  stand  at  the  head  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  who  have  long  been  resident  in  the 
Indian  country,  and  who  have  become  extensively  acquaint-^ 
ed  with  their  languages.. 

The  Indians  west  of  the  great  chain  of  mountains,  havs; 


%.^- 


,,*      Vl    Sy. 


m 


."t. 


m 


7trf' 


•if.'-  -^-'il;'^  ■''",'•  •' 
,1.,"..  ■■:;>* '^''V,;  -i 


^ll\. 


:!;#• 


m 


^-t: 


.p 


■■ill:- Jv,  •■,.';>,:'■;,  hi" 


^^;  -'w-^^i'- 


5j*,  [   f 


Ti 


,y'- 


236 


WAR. 


fi'Hj-^ 


I,  sS'iiV-  ■'Wi  '*«"!'  fe'f' ;   '• 

i.'r-w||^).5iJ.-..i''j'.j&'-< '.  i'' ' 


no  wars  among  themselves,  and  appear  to  be  averse  to  all 
war,  and  do  not  enter  into  battle  except  in  self-defence,  and 
then  only  in  the  last  extremity.     Their  only  wars  are  with 
the  Blackfeet  Indians,  whose  country  is  along  the  east  bor- 
der of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  who  are  constantly  rov. 
ing  about  in  war  parties,  on  both  sides  of  the  mountains 
in  quest  of  plunder.      When  the  Indians  on  the  west  meet 
with  any  of  these  war  parties,  they  avoid  an  encounter  if  j 
possible,  but  if  they  are  compelled  to  fight,  they  show  a  firm, 
undaunted,  unconquerable  spirit,  and  rush  upon  their  ene. 
mies  with  the  greatest  impetuosity ;  and  it  is  said  that  one 
Nez  Perce,  or  Flathead  warrior  is  a  match  for  three  Black, 
feet.    The  only  advantage  which  the  latter  have  over  the  for. 
mer  consists  in  their  numbers,  there  being  more  than  twen- 
ty thousand  of  the  Blackfeet  Indians.     When  an  enemy  is 
discovered,  every  horse  is  driven  into  camp,  and  the  women 
take  charge  of  them,  while  every  man  seizes  his  weapons  of  j 
war,  whatever  they  may  be,  mtwints  his  horse,  and  waits 
firm  and  undismayed  to  see  if  hostilities  must  ensue.    If  a 
battle  cannot  be  avoided,  then  they  rush  forward  to  meet 
their  foes,  throwing  themselves  flat  upon  their  horses  as  they 
draw  near,  and  fire,  and  wheel,  and  re-load,  and  again  rush 
full  speed  to  the  second  encounter..    This  is  continued  until 
victory  is  decided,  which  is  as  often  by  the  failure  of  amrau. 
nition,  as  by  the  loss  of  men.     Very  frequently,  when  the 
Blackfeet  see  white  men  with  the  Nez  Forces  or  Flatheads, 
they  decline  a  battle,  though  they  themselves  may  be  far 
superior  in  numbers,  knowing  that  the  white  men  can  fur^ 
nish  a  large  supply  of  ammunition ;  and  in  such  cases  they 
will  raise  a  flag>  and  come  in  to  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace* 
The  Nez  Fierce  or  Flathead  chief,  on  such  an  occasion,  will 
say  "we  accept  your  offer  to  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace,  but  it 
IS  not  in  ignorance,  that  your  heart  is  war,,  and  your  hand 
blood,  but  we  love  peacCk     You  give  us  the  pipe,  but  blood 
qJw^ys  follows.' 


»»■ 


'^} 


VICES. 


237 


But  these  Indians  are  not  without  their  vices.  Gambling 
1,3  Mie  of  the  most  prominent,  and  is  a  ruling  passion  which 
they  will  gratify  to  the  last  extremity.  It  is  much  prac- 
tised in  running  horses,  and  foot  races,  by  men,  women,  and 
children ;  they  have  some  games  of  chance  played  with 
sticks  or  bones.  When  I  told  the  Nez  Perces  that  gam- 
bling is  wrong,  that  it  is  a  violation  of  the  tenth  command- 
ment ;  for  it  is  coveting  the  property  of  another,  and  taking 
it  frithout  compensation,  as  much  so  as  stealing ;  they  said 
they  did  not  know  it  before,  but  now  they  know  God  forbids 
it,  they  will  do  so  no  more.  Most  of  the  tribes  of  the 
plains  are  remarkably  free  from  the  crime  of  stealing,  and 
it  is  scarcely  known,  except  among  the  Shoshones  nation, 
vhere  it  is  practised  to  a  considerable  degree,  but  less  so 
than  in  former  times.  Drunkeness  is  a  stranger  vice  among 
these  Indians,  but  what  they  would  do,  if  ardent  spirits 
were  introduced  among  them,  is  not  known,  and  it  is  most 
lievoutly  to  be  desired  it  may  not  be  known.  It  is  only  the 
eipense  of  transportation  that  keeps  back  its  introduction. 
A  man  from  th&  linked  States  attempted  to  construct  a  dis- 
tlery  upon  the  Willamette  river,  but  for  the  want  of  suita- 
ble materials  failed  in  his  object. 

The  moral  disposition  of  these  Indians  is  very  commend. 
able,  certainly  as  much  so  as  any  people  that  can  be  nam- 
ed.  They  are  kind  to  strangers,  and  remarkably  so  to  each 
otber^  While  among  them  I  saw  no  contentions,  nor  did  I 
hear  any  angry  words  from  one  to  another.  They  mani- 
fest  an  uncommon  desire  to  be  instructed  that  they  may 
obey  and  fulfil  all  moral  obligations.  Harmony  and  peace 
prevail  in  all  their  domestic  concerns.  But  in  case  they 
any  difficult  subject,  which  they  do  not  know  how  to 
ose  of,  they  go  to  their  chiefs,  and  if  it  involves  any 
important  principle,  the  chiefs  bring  the  case  to  any  white 
man,  who  may  be  among  them,  to  obtain  his  opinion,  which 
is  generally  followed.     They  are  scrupulously  hone;  t  in  all 


n- 


.Kill.'  .    :! 

ffl  •'  :i  ■  •.»      ■   i 


i 


'-.fj, 


238 


SUPERSTITIONS. 


K^.    '.-i'r 


S-W' 


V  * 


n 


AS-  Y 


ly -l-^'-i-'- 


1'  h 


their  dealings,  and  lying  is  scarcely  known.  They  say 
they  fear  to  sin  against  the  Great  Spirit,  and  therefore,  they 
have  but  one  heart,  and  their  tongue  is  straight  and  not  { 
forked.  And  so  correctly  does  the  law  written  upon  their 
hearts  accord  with  the  written  law  of  God,  that  every  in.  I 
fraction  of  the  seventh  command  of  the  decalogue  is  pun. 
ished  with  severity. 

I  have  not  witnessed  many  things  characteristic  of  their  I 
being  very  superstitious.      The  practice  of  the  Shoshonesj 
in  cutting  themselves  for  the  dead,  I  have  already  mention. 
ed.     The  Carriers  burn  their  dead.     When  a  person  dies,] 
all  the  relations  must  be  assembled,  to  do  which  often  occu. 
pies  many  days ;    and  if  a  husband  is  deceased,  the  wife] 
must  sleep  with  her  dead  husband  to  show  her  affection  fori 
him  ;  and  when  the  body  is  laid  upon  the  funeral  pile,  she| 
must,  during  the  burning,  frequently  put  her  hands  upon  liis 
bosom.     Their  first  chief  lost  his  wife.     He  was  asked  if 
he  would  show  the  affection  for  her,  which  was  required  o(j 
others.     He  thought  on  account  of  his  station  he  might 
excused.      The  people  were  urgent,  and  he  consented,  and 
on  account  of  the  pain  ho  endured,  he  was  willing  the  prac.| 
tice  should  be  ameliorated,  and  it  is  hoped  it  will  soon 
abolished. 

They  have  no  unlucky  days,  but  as  a  substitute  for  the 
white  man's  Friday,  they  have  a  portentous  howling  of 
large  wolf,  which  they  call  the  medicine  wolf.  If  they 
hear  this  when  traveling,  a  sadness  is  at  once  visible  in  theirj 
countenances,  as  foreboding  some  calamity  near. 

Among  their  superstitions  may  be  classed  their  mode  ol 
curing  diseases.  They  have  what  are  called  medicine  menJ 
who  make  no  pretensions  to  any  knowledge  of  diseases  oii 
skill  in  medicine ;  but  they  have  a  bag  in  which  is  deposited 
various  relics,  not  to  be  administered  to  their  patients,  hut  to 
operate  as  a  charm.  The  patient  is  stretched  upon  tlid 
ground  ;  a  number  of  persons  encircle  around  and  sing  thi 


MEDICINE  MEN. 


239 


medicine  song.  The  medicine  man  enters  the  circle  and 
commences  his  magical  incantations  ;  uses  much  gesture  and 
inarticulate  sounds  ;  he  pats  or  kneads  the  patient  with  his 
hands,  beginning  very  softly,  and  gradually  increasing  to  a 
considerable  degree  of  severity ;  blows  into  the  patient's 
ears,  and  practices  other  like  ceremonies.  By  the  process 
employed,  the  patient  is  often  much  fatigued,  and  thrown 
into  a  free  perspiration,  and  his  imagination  is  much  excited. 
When  the  friction  has  been  sufficiently  employed,  the  imagin- 
ation well  wrought  upon,  and  the  medicine  bag  has  invisibly 
imparted  its  virtues,  the  medicine  man  presents  some  trifling 
article,  such  as  a  small  bone,  a  stick,  or  pebble,  and  says  he 
jias  taken  it  from  the  body  of  the  patient,  and  it  was  the 
cause  of  the  disease ;  or  he  gives  a  heavy  puff  upward,  and 
gavs  the  disease  has  come  out  of  the  patient  and  gone  up. 
ward,  and  then  asks  him  if  he  does  not  feel  better.  The 
patient  says  yes ;  for  he  certainly  feels  better  in  being  re- 
lieved from  the  process.  And  often  the  effect  is  permanent ; 
jbr  the  friction  may  have  been  beneficial,  and  the  imagina- 
tion  often  performs  wonders.  The  medicine  man  stands  re- 
iponsible  for  the  life  of  his  patient,  and  if  his  patient  dies, 
not  unfrequently  his  own  life  is  taken  by  some  of  the  rela- 
lives  of  the  deceased.  He  makes  a  heavy  charge  for  his 
jervices,  often  a  horse,  and  why  should  he  not  7  for  who 
in  such  cases  would  endanger  his  life  without  being  well 
paid  ?  In  some  parts  of  the  country,  but  more  especially  in 
the  lower  country,  the  lives  of  medicine  men  are  short,  and 
it  would  be  supposed  this  would  deter  others  from  entering 
into  the  profession.  But  the  love  of  fame  and  wealth  is 
powerful  among  heathen  as  well  as  among  civilized  com- 
munities, where  there  are  those  who  will  sell  their  souls,  as 
veil  as  their  bodies,  to  gratify  their  sinful  propensities. 
Undoubtedly  the  medicine  men,  when  they  begin  their  pro- 
Jession,  know  that  they  are  practising  deception,  but  by 
continuance  in  practice,  by  the  confidence  others  place  in 


::*^;, 

i"  ' 

f*  • 

,, 

'■*!• 

-                     '                .      "       ■••:     »«           ' 

••'' 

itt.„ 

:>::;■  --  ■■ 

.  ■     i  '  ■    ••  .  ■ 

i;,, 

i"- 

■    "   •        / 

1K. 

j                        . 

/■ 

■'*        - .  ,■'*     ''■ 

j.  .1 

■  -      ' 

»*■'.      .. 

"*   .      '     ' 

i. 

Mt       r 

y           • 

•  ■  V 


it, 


mh 


240 


STEAM  BATtt. 


rif 


■    ^     -      ^     ■-♦     « 


£4  i'Cd:' 


^-*.4..^ry. 


their  skill,  and  by  the  effects  produced  through  the  mediw 
um  of  the  imagination,  they  believe  in  the  efficacy  of  their 
enchantments,  and  that  they  themselves  are  consequential! 
men.  •    " 

I  have  seen  no  "  root  doctors"  in  any  tribe  east  or  west] 
of  the  mountains.     The  Indians,  so  far  as  I  have  had  an  op.. 
portunity  of  ascertaining,  have  but  few  diseases,  and  fori 
the  cure  of  these,  they  use  but  little  medicine  ;  nor  do  theyf 
profess  to  have  scarcely  any  knowledge  of  remedies  beyonii 
a  few  specifics. 

They  have  a  practice  of  producing  perspiration,  the 
object  of  which  is  to  invigoTate  their  constitutions,  and 
as  a  luxury  is  practised  very  extensively.  They  conn 
struct  a  steam  bath  in  the  form  of  an  oblong  oven,  tw( 
or  three  feet  high,  about  six  feet  long,  made  of  willows,  each 
end  inserted  into  the  ground,  forming  an  arch,  which  is  cov^ 
cred  with  grass  and  mud,  or  more  generally  with  skins.  Ig 
this  they  place  a  number  of  hot  stones,  upon  which  the) 
pour  water.  The  person,  who  is  to  go  through  the  process 
enters  and  is  enclosed  nearly  air  tight,  and  remains  until 
very  profuse  perspiration  is  produced,  and  until  nearly  suf 
focated.  He  then  comes  out  and  plunges  at  once  into  col^ 
water.  No  regard  is  paid  to  the  season  of  the  year,  whethj 
er  summer  or  winter. 

They  are  wholly  destitute  of  the  means  of  obtaining  ai| 
education,  and  therefore  are  ignorant  of  all  the  sciences] 
In  things  with  which  they  are  conversant,  such  as  appertaiij 
to  hunting,  war,  and  their  limited  domestic  concerns,  thci 
manifest  observation,  sjkill,  and  intellect ;  but  beyond  thcsJ 
their  knowledge  is  very  limited.  They  necessarily  coraputj 
by  numbers,  but  their  arithmetic  is  entirely  mental.  It  ij 
an  interesting  fact,  that  of  four  different  languages,  which 
examined,  the  mode  of  counting  is  by  tens. 

The  Klicatat  nation  count  with  different  words  up  to  ten 
iaA'5,  one;  neep%  two;  and  so  to  ten ;  tlien  they  add  wai 


"MUSIC. 


241 


to  lah's ;  aslah^s  wappena,  eleven  ;  neepH  tcappcna,  twelve  ; 
neep^t  tit,  twenty ;  and  in  like  manner  to  one  hundred,  and  so 
on  to  a  thousand  by  hundreds.  In  the  Nez  Perce  language, 
nox  is  one,  lapeet  two,  metait  three,  &c.  After  ten  they  re- 
peat the  radical  numbers  with  the  addition,  tUy  as  nox  tU, 
eleven  ;  laap  tit,  twenty ;  metap  tit,  thirty.  This  may  be  a 
Bufficient  specimen  for  the  four  languages,  as  the  other  two 
proceed  in  the  same  manner. 

They  count  their  years  by  snows ;  as,  maika  elaix,  snows, 
six,  that  is  six  years ;  and  months  by  moons,  and  days  by 
sleeps ;  pinemeek pe-c-lep,  sleeps  four,  (four  days.)  It  is  not 
common  that  they  know  their  exact  age ;  nor,  generally 
gpeaking,  are  they  very  accurate  in  chronology. 

They  are  very  fond  of  singing,  and  generally  have  flcxi- 
ble  and  sweet-toned  voices.  Most  of  their  singing  is  with- 
out words,  excepting  upon  some  special  occasions.  They 
tise  hi  ah  in  constant  repetition,  as  we  use  fa,  sol,  la  ;  and 
instead  of  several  different  parts  harmonizing,  they  only 
take  eighths,  one  above  em.  'er,  never  exceeding  three. 
They  are  conscious  of  the  -i  ^  rity  of  their  tunes  to  ours, 
and  wished  to  be  instructed  in  mis  departmeni  of  knowledge. 
In  this  land  of  moral  desolations,  it  was  cheering  to  hear 
the  sounds  of  melody  and  harmony,  even  in  the  most  simple 
strains. 


^»'  -..-t  "j^  ■ill 


ill: 

I't:     ■ 


I  ■  *"      ■        ■ 


■id;  V.  -if'  to. J.  ■ 


('.1  -^ 


'^■3  ■ 

'•!»■■*  - 


\ 


;  h:  ;»- 


I 


*il 


242 


THE  INDIANS  OF 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


The  Indians  of  the  lower  country. 


'I" 


1(1!  '..-tf    ■;,;i;-<'3     • 


« % 


The  Indians  of  the  lower  country  are  those  between  the  I 
shores  of  the  Pacific  and  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia  river, 
and  from  Pugets  Sound  to  upper  California.     The  principal  1 
nations  are  the  Chenooks,  the  Klicatats,  the  Callapooabs 
and  the  Umbaqu^s.     These  nations  are  divided  into  a  great  { 
number  of  tribes,  which  have  their  respective  chiefs,  and 
yet  each  nation  has  its  principal  chief,  who  is  head  over  all 
the  several  tribes,  and  has  a  general  superintending  control.] 
These  Indians  are  rather  below  a  middle  stature,  not  gener.j 
ally,  in  their  persons,  so  well  formed  as  the  Indians  of  the! 
plains  or  upper  country.     Their  women  are  uncouth,  in.j 
dining  to  be  pendulous :  and,  at  an  early  age,  they  appear 
old,  which  is  owing  to  several  causes.     One  among  theseJ 
is  the  habit  of  painting,  which  destroys  the  smooth  and 
healthy  appearance  of  the  skin. 

These  Indians  appear  to  have  less  sensibility,  both  physiJ 
cal  and  moral,  than  those  of  the  upper  country.  Their  de^ 
pendence  for  subsistence  being  mostly  confined  to  fishing 
and  fowling,  they  are  not  so  well  supplied  with  clothing  a^ 
the  upper  Indians,  who  hunt  the  buffalo,  the  elk,  the  antej 
lope,  and  other  game.  The  lower  Indians  obtain  somd 
game,  and  clothing  from  the  lower  posts  of  the  Hudson  Baj 
Company.  I  have  often  seen  these  going  about,  half  naj 
ked,  when  tlie  thermometer  ranged  between  thirty  and  fortj 
degrees ;  and  their  children  barefooted  and  barelegged  Id 
the  snow ;  and  yet  when  exposed  to  fatigue,  they  canno 


THE  LOWER  COUNTRT. 


343 


endure  the  cold  half  so  well  as  civilized  people.  I  have  no- 
ticed this,  when  I  have  had  them  employed  in  conveying 
me  any  considerable  distance  in  a  canoe.  Their  taste  and 
smelling  are  obtuse,  rendered  so  by  their  filthy  habits  and 
contaminated  food.  But  their  hearing  and  sight  are  un. 
commonly  good ;  rendered  so,  undoubedtly,  by  their  habits  of 
looking  closely  to  see  their  game,  and  listening  attentively 
to  catch  the  least  sound.  These  Indians  being,  from  their 
mode  of  subsistence,  more  stationary  than  those  of  the 
plains,  have  more  durable  and  comfortable  habitations, 
which  are  built  of  split  plank,  after  the  manner  which  I 
have  described  Wanaxka*s,  near  the  falls  of  the  Willamette. 
Some  of  them,  however,  indulge  the  fancy  of  making  their 
doors  like  the  face  of  a  man,  the  mouth  being  the  place  of 
entrance. 
The  lower  Indians  do  not  dress  as  well,  nor  with  as  good 
taste,  as  the  upper.  Their  robes  are  much  shorter,  and  are 
made  of  inferior  materials ;  such  as  deer  skins  with  the  hair 
o,  and  skins  of  hares  and  of  squirrels.  The  women  wear  a 
sort  of  petticoat,  made  of  cedar  bark,  or  a  species  of  strong 
psSf  twisted  into  strands,  which,  at  one  end,  is  fastened 
into  a  girdle,  and  the  other  is  knotted  and  suspended  from 
the  band.  These  Indians  are  as  degraded  as  those  on  our 
frontiers,  and  from  the  same  causes.  By  their  intercourse 
with  those  who  furnish  them  with  the  means  of  intoxica- 
tion, and  who  have  introduced  kindred  vices,  they  have  be- 
come indolent  and  extremely  filthy  in  their  habits,  and  more 
liebased  than  the  beasts  of  the  earth.  If  we  go  to  the 
abodes  of  the  beasts  of  the  field  and  of  the  forest,  we  may 
find  examples  of  neatness  and  industry  far  above  that  of  these 
iieatlien.  How  perfectly  neat  are  the  deer  and  the  ante- 
[bpe ;  how  industrious  the  beaver  and  the  bee  ;  how  clean  is 
lie  plumage  of  the  fowl ;  how  well  adapted  to  repose  are 
heir  habitations ;  in  a  word,  how  diflerent  are  all  their  hah- 
ts  from  those  of  fallen,  polluted  man.     What  has  brought 


■..•  f  >  %■  ■', 


■  t 


I' if." 


t 


••:.*?  •'^. 
'*'^.l' 


(of      r..  ••'';■' 
III!  •■ 


■^f 


244 


THE^INDIANS  OF' 


V'\-      .;••  V  g-  ■■  I* '..  < 


man,  unreclaimed  by  the  gospel,  into  this  degraded  statft  ? 
Not  the  want  of  rational  powers,  but  their  abuse  by  sin ;  and 
nothing  but  Christianity,  by  which  he  may  be  brought  back 
to  God,  can  ever  bring  him  into  the  comforts  and  decencies 
of  life. 

Tell  us  no  more  about  the  happiness  of  the  untaught 
children  of  nature ;  poor,  miserable,  degraded,  sinful  na- 
ture,  alienated  from  the  life  of  godliness ;  and  alienated  from 
the  decencies  of  life.  Let  infidels  and  novelists  scatter 
their  eulogies  of  the  untutored  children  of  nature  to  the 
wind,  but  do  not  let  them  be  found  near  tl^  habitations  of 
ignorance,  pollution,.  i.nd  misery.  The  want  of  moral  in. 
struction,  the  influence  of  bad  examples,  and  unrestrained 
licentiousness,  have  brouglU  the  lower  Indians  into  a  state 
of  wretchedness  which  will  be  entailed  upon  future  genera. 
tions,  and  which  nothing  but  the  healing  power  of  the  gos. 
pel  can  ever  eradicate.  There  are  some  exceptions  to  these 
remarks,  but  not  enough  to  exert  a  redeeming  power  to  save 
these  remnants  of  once  populous  nations,  if  benevolence 
and  humanity  do  not  soon  break  their  slumbers.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  the  methodist  missionaries,  now  in  the  field,  under 
God,  will  interpose  a  barrier  to  thcye  sweeping  desolations. 

In  their  religious  belief,  they  do  not  materially  differ  from 
the  upper  Indians.  While  they  believe  in  one  Great  Spirit, 
they  in  addition  believe  in  subordinate  spirits,  or  invisible 
agencies,  to  whom  they  ascribe  much  the  same  power  as 
has  been  ascribed  to  witchcraft.  We  had  a  specimen  of  | 
this,  when  the  May  Dacrc  was  passing  down  the  river  in 
October.  On  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia,  near  the  con. 
fluence  of  the  Cowlitz  there  were  some  dark  recesses  in 
the  basaltic  rocks.  An  Indian  chief  on  board  warned  Capt. 
L.  not  to  approach  those  dark  places ;  for  they  were  the 
residence  of  bad  spirits  who  would  destroy  the  ship  and  all 
on  board.     Capt.  L.  purposely  passed  near  the  place  ;  and 


n^2:  . 

<:■     •  • 


THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


245 


the  Indian  was  astonished  that  we  escaped  unhurt,  and  con- 
cluded there  must  have  been  some  great  "  medicine"  in  the 
ship>  which  defended  us.  They  beUeve  in  the  immortahty 
of  the  soul,  and  that  in  the  future  state  we  shall  have  the 
same  wants  as  in  this  life.  Under  the  influence  of  this  be- 
lief, the  wife  of  Calpo,  a  very  influential  chief  of  the  Che- 
nook  village  near  cape  Disappointment,  on  losing  a  daugh- 
ter, in  the  year  1829,  killed  two  female  slaves  to  attend  her 
to  the  world  of  spirits,  and  for  the  particular  purpose  of 
rowing  her  canoe  to  the  far  oflf  happy  regions  of  the  south, 
nhere  in  their  imagination  they  locate  their  elysium.     She 

I  (jeposited  her  daughter,  with  the  two  slain  females  by  her 

I  fide,  in  a  canoe,  with  articles  of  clothing  and  domestic  im- 
plements.    She  was  the  daughter  of  Concomly,  and  a  wo- 

Uan  of  more  than  common  talents  and  respectability,  a 
tirai  friend  of  white  men,  and  more  than  once  saved  them 
from  slaughter.     How  dark  was  the  mind  of  this  talented 

Loman,  and  how  differently  would  she  have  conducted  un- 
lier  the  influence  of  divine  revelation  !     These  Indians  nev- 

|er  mention  the  name  of  their  relatives  after  they  are  dead. 
It  is  only  in  the  lower  country  of  the  Oregon  Territory, 
nd  along  the  coast,  that  slavery  exists.     It  was  formerly 

[practiced  in  the  upper  country,  but  was  long  since  abolish- 
The   Walla  Walla  tribe  are  descended  from  slaves 

Iformerly  owned  and  liberated  by  the  Nez  Perce  Indians,  and 

|ire  now  a  respectable  tribe. 
Gambling  is  also  practiced  among  the  lower  Indians,  and 

Itarried  to  perfection.     After  they  have  lost  every  thing 

|tliey  possess,  they  will  put  themselves  at  stake ;  first  a  hand, 

od  if  unsuccessful,  the  other  ;  after  this  an  arm,  and  in  the 

ame  manner,  piece  by  piece,  until  all  is  lost  except  the  heady 

Dd  at  last  their  head,  and  if  they  lose  this,  they  go  into 

erpetual  slavery.     If  civilized  men  will  gamble,  it  is  de- 

ible  they  should  carry  the  game  to  the  same  perfection  f 

br  then  they  would  cease  to  be  a  pest  in  society,  and  how* 
21* 


->-* 


K:  ;y- 


■■r  .If- 


246 


THB  INDIATfS  or 


'!«U-%4'ivs 


yiiiij.--^ 


ever  different  may  be  our  sentiments  upon  the  subject  of 
slavery,  in  this  we  should  generally  be  agreed,  that  such 
gamblers  would  not  deserve  commiseration.  The  Indians 
however,  do  not  set  their  souls  at  the  hazard  of  the  game^ 
as  civilized  gamblers  do,  when  they  imprecate  the  eternal 
vengeance  of  God  upon  their  souls  if  they  are  not  success- 
ful. The  Indian  gambles  away  his  inalienable  rights  for 
time  only. 

It  is  a  universal  practice  to  indulge  in  smoking.  When 
they  saturate  their  bodies  with  smoke^  thoy  do  it  in  a  digni- 
fied  manner.  They  use  but  little  tobacco,  and  with  it  they 
mix  freely  a  plant  which  renders  the  fume  less  offensive.  It 
is  a  social  luxury,  for  the  enjoyment  of  which,- they  form  a 
circle,  and  only  one  pipe  is  used.  The  principal  chief  be- 
gins by  drawing  three  whiffs,,  the  first  of  which  he  sends 
upward,  and  then  passes  the  pipe  to  the  next  person  in  dig- 
nity, and  in  like  manner  it  passes  around  until  it  comes  ta 
the  first  chief  again.  He  then  draws  four  whiffs,  the  last 
of  which  ho  blows  through  his  nose  in  two  columns,  in  cir- 
cling ascent,  like  a  double-flued  chimney.  While  thus  em- 
ployed, some  topic  of  business  is  discussed,  or  some  exploit 
in  the  chase,  or  some  story  of  the  battle-field,  is  related; 
and  the  whole  is  conducted  with  gravity.  Their  pipes  are 
variously  constructed,  and  of  different  materials.  Some  of 
them  are  wrought  with  much  'ibor  and  ingenuity  of  an  ar- 
gillaceous  stone,  of  very  fine  texture,  found  at  the  north  of 
Queen  Charlotte's  island,  of  a  blue-black  color ;  and  which 
is  of  the  same  kind  of  ston&  as  that  found  upon  the  head, 
waters  of  the  Missouri,  except  in  color,  the  latter  of  which 
is  brick  red.  Tiiese  stones, .  when  first  taken  out  of  the 
quarries,  are  soft  and  are  easily  worked  with  a  knil^,  but 
on  being  exposed  to  the  air  they  become  hard,  and  take  a 
very  good  polish. 

The  Indians  in  the  lower  ocuntry  are  more  indolent  than 
in  the  upper  ;  and  the  common  motives  for  industry  operate 


THE  LOWEE  COlrtfTBT. 


247- 


rcversely    from    those    in    civilized    communities.      The 

Lore  they  can  get  for  their  labor,  the  less  they  will  do ;  the 

I  more  they  can  get  for  an  article  in  sale,  the  less  they  will' 
ring  into  market.     Their  wamts  are  but  ^eWf  and  when 

I  these  are  supplied  they  will  do  no  more.  They  have  no  dis- 
position to  hoard  up  treasures^  nor  any  enlarged  plans  tc 
execute^  requiring  expense  and  labor.  If  they  have  any 
particular  present  want  to  supply,  they  will  do  only  what  is 
sufficient  to«atisfy  it,  and  make  no  farther  effort  until  urged 
bv  a  returning  necessity.  To  make  them  industrious  and 
provident,  you  must  induce  them  to  set  a  higher  estimate 
upon  the  comforts  of  life,  and  show  them  that  they  are  at- 
tainable, and  that  there  is  an  increase  of  happiness  growing 
out  of  industry ;  and  they  must  be  taught  by  experience. 

I  Abstract  reasoning  and  theories  are  of  no  avail  with  the 
idians.  They  must  be  taught  experimentally, .at  their  own 
houses,  and  upon  their  own  lands.  An  Indi«n^may  be  taken 
abroad  and  instructedr  and  convineed  of  the  advantages  of 
civilization  above  heathanism,  and  if  sent  back  to  his  coun- 
tr\'  alone,  he  will  become  discouraged,  and  return  te  his 
former  habits.  Experimental  farmers  and  missionaries 
must  go  among  them,  and  make  it  the  business  of  their 
lives  to  do  them  good,  and  identify  their  own  interests  with 

I  theirs.  Charging  indolence,  and  insensibility^  and  cruelty, 
upon  them  will  never  make  them  wiser  or  better.     He  is 

I  the  true  philanthropist,  who,  instead  of  passing  by  on  the 
other  side,  goes  to  them,  and  does  all  in  his  power  to  raise 
them  from  their^  degradation,  and  bring  them  to  God  and  to 

[heaven. 
The  Indians  of  the  lower  country, -although  less  anxious 

I  to  be  instructed  in  the  things  of  religion,  than  in  the  upper 
country,  yet  express  a  readiness  to  receive  instructors.    I , 
have  not  found  among  them,  nor  among  any  Indians  beyond 
the  influence  of  frontier  settlements,  anything  like  what 
hag  been  .stated  ta  have  taken  place  ia  other  sections  of  our.- 


•  ■  *;  *•  ■ 

...     -  «.;■  V; 

■'"  ,'■    •        ■"»r  t 


.-?    :JJ 


■      ^ 


I'  .ilf  •   • 


248 


THE  INDIANS  OP 


-'M..' 


1*^^ 


'4 


i''ivlBj.»'tli'lf*'.''''.l''-'   '    ■ 

til  if'' w  v'-'Si.-T' ••■^ 


country,  and  in  other  times  :  that  they  will  listen  to  state. 
ments  made  by  missionaries,  and  give  their  assent  to  wliat 
is  said  as  very  good ;  and  then  state  their  own  theories  of 
religion,  expecting  the  same  courteous  assent  in  return. 
Neither  have  I  seen  any  disposition  manifested,  to  say  tlie 
christian  religion  is  very  good  for  white  men,  but  us  red 
men  differ,  they  need  a  different  religion  and  mode  of  lile. 
They  have  not  yet  been  instigated  by  infidels  to  say  sijcli 
things.  They  are  conscious  of  their  ignorance  of  God  and 
salvation,  and  of  the  various  arts  and  sciences.  While  an 
indifference  and  apathy  characterize  some,  which  is  dis. 
couraging,  yet  there  has  been  nothing  manifested  which  is 
forbidding. 

While  gratitude  is  a  general  characteristic  of  Indians, 
yet  they  have  in  some  cases  their  peculiar  way  of  express. 
ing  it.  An  Indian  had  a  son  laboring  for  a  long  time  under 
a  languishing  and  dangerous  complaint.  Their  medicine 
men  had  done  all  they  could  for  him,  but  without  success. 
The  father  brought  his  son  to  the  hospital  at  Fort  Vancou. 
ver,  and  earnestly  desired  to  have  him  treated  with  care 
and  with  the  best  medical  attendance.  The  sick  son  was 
received,  and  in  about  six  months  was  restored  to  good 
health.  When  his  father  came  to  take  him  home,  he  re- 
marked  to  Doct.  McL.  "  my  son  is  a  good  boy,  he  has  been 
with  you  a  long  time,  and  I  think  you  must  love  him ;  and 
now  as  he  is  about  to  leave  you,  will  you  not  give  him  a 
blanket  and  shirt,  and  as  many  other  small  things  as  you 
think  will  be  good  ?     We  shall  always  love  you  " 

The  lower  Indians  make  their  medicine,  in  some  particu- 
lars, differently  from  those  farther  east.  Their  professed 
object  is  to  obtain  present  relief,  if  not  a  radical  cure  ;  to 
assuage  the  sorrow  of  the  relatives  if  the  patient  dies,  and 
that  he  may  die  more  easily,  and  his  soul  may  be  rendered 
more  capable  of  performing  its  journey  to  its  far  distant 
and  happy  country.     The  process  is  simple,  and  occupies 


THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


249 


five  09  six  hours.     The  patient  is  laid  upon  a  bed  of  mats 
and  blankets,  sometimes  a  little  elevated,  and  surrounded  by 
I  a  frame  work.    Two  "  medicine  men"  place  themselves  up- 
on this  frame,  and  commence  a  chant  in  a  low,  long-drawn 
voice,  each  holding  a  wand  in  his  hand,  three  or  four  feet 
long,  with  which  they  beat  upon  the  frame,  keeping  time 
ffith  their  tune.      They  gradually  increase  the  loudness 
and  the  movement  of  their  medicine  song,  with  a  corres- 
pondent use  of  their  wand,  until  the  noise  becomes  almost 
deafening,  and  undoubtedly  often  hurries  the  patient  out  of 
the  world..    During  this  time  the  neap  relations  appear  to 
be  perfectly  indifferent  to  the  condition  of  the  sick  person, 
lest  their  anxiety  should  affect  the  influence  of  the  charm, 
and  they  are  generally  employed  about  their  common  busi- 
ness,  such  as  the  women  making  mats,'baskets,  and  mocca- 
sons ;  and  the  men  are  lolling  about,  smoking,  or  convers- 
ing upon  common  subjects.    In  some  cases,  especially,  if 
their  confidence  in  the  medicine  man  issmall^  th^  mani. 
fast  much  affliction  and  concern ;  and  in  ah  cases  after  the 
person  dies,  they  make  great  lamentation. 
,  I  have  already  mentioned  the  practice  of  the  lower  In- 
dians of  flattening  their  heads  and  piercing  their  noses. 
But  another  reported  custom,  of  having   pieces  of  sea- 
horse's tusks,  or  oval  pieces  of  wood  an  inch  and  a  half 
long  and  an  inch  wide,  inserted  into  a  hole  in  their  under 
lip,  made  for  the  purpose,  is  not  correct  in  regard  to  any  of 
the  Indians  in  this  section  of  country.     Captain  Beechy 
mentions  this  as  a  common  practice  from  Norton's  island 
and  northward ;  which  was  noticed  by  Deshnow  as  long 
ago  as  1648,  worn  by  men,  and  by  women  about  Prince 
William's  sound,  and  which  custom,  Captain  B.  says,  is 
common  the  whole  distance  along  the  western  shores  of 
America,  as  far  as  to  California.     I  saw  some  specimens  of 
this  ornament,  or  rather  deformity,  which  were  worn  by 
the  Indians  at  Millbank  Sound. 


'nii'.i  '"I 

■      in.-   .'I 


T 


iC"'    1, 


fc:.v 


•*.■■■■  *; 


'.t 

■fui' 


\» , 


J'  ft-/  ■  ' 
:»  *-;     "  ■ 


t 


.1     *'!        7    ^         • 


I 


f*."^ 
'&^ 


vrrf  r- 


250 


THE  INDIANS  OF 


The  wealth  of  the  lower  Indians  is  estimated  by  the 
number  of  their  wives,  slaves,  and  canoes.  Every  Indian 
of  any  distinction  takes  as  many  wives  as  he  is  able  to  sup. 
port,  and  his  wealth  is  supposed  to  accord  with  the  number. 
They  are  quite  destitute  of  horses,  and  their  almost  only 
mode  of  traveling  is  in  canoes  ;  for  the  forests  are  so  dense 
that  they  are  nearly  impeneirable,  and  they  do  not  construct 
any  roads.  As  the  upper  Indians  excel  in  horsemanship, 
80  these  excel  in  the  management  of  their  canoes.  These 
are  uncommonly  well  made,  and  of  various  sizes,  from 
twelve  to  thirty  feet  long ;  the  largest  will  carry  as  much  as 
a  good  bateau.  They  are  generally  made  of  the  fir  tree. 
Their  bow  and  stern  are  raised  high,  so  as  to  meet  and  ward 
off  the  boisterous  waves,  and  the  bow  is  sometimes  decora, 
ted  with  figures  of  animals.  Slaves  are  employed  in  pro. 
polling  the  canoes,  but  not  exclusively ;  for  often  the  chiefs 
will  perform  their  part  of  the  labor,  and  the  women  are 
equally  expert  with  the  men. 

Their  manufactures  do  not  widely  differ  from  those  of 
the  upper  country,  only  with  the  addition  of  hats  and  bask, 
ets  of  uncommonly  good  workmanship,  mp.de  of  grass  of 
superior  quality,  equal  to  the  Leghorn.  The  native  hats 
are  a  fiaring  cone.  Their  baskets  are  worked  so  closely  as 
to  hold  water,  and  are  used  for  pails.  Some  of  them  are 
interwoven  with  various  colors  and  devices,  representing 
fancifully,  men,  horses,  and  flowers. 

The  government  of  the  Indian  nations  is  in  the  hands  of 
chiefs,  whose  ofiice  is  hereditary,  or  obtained  by  some  spe. 
cial  merit.  Their  only  power  is  influence  ;  and  this  is  in 
proportion  to  their  wisdom,  benevolence,  and  courage. 
They  do  not  exercise  authority  by  command,  but  use  their 
influence  by  persuasion,  stating  what  in  their  judgement 
they  believe  to  be  right  and  for  the  greatest  good  of  their 
tribe  or  nation,  or  of  any  family  or  community.  The  chiefs 
have  no  power  of  levying  taxes,  and  they  are  so  much  in  the 


>; 


THE  LOWER  COUNTBY. 


251 


habit  of  contributing  their  own  property  for  individual  or 
pubJic  good,  that  they  are  not  generally  wealthy.  Their  in- 
fluence, however,  is  great ;  for  they  rarely  express  an  opin- 
ion or  desire,  which  is  not  readily  assented  to  and  followed. 
Any  unreasonable  dissent  is  subdued  by  the  common  voice 
of  the  people.  Probably  there  is  no  goverument  upon  earth 
where  there  is  so  much  personal  and  political  freedom,  and 
at  the  same  time  so  little  anarchy ;  and  I  can  unhesitating- 
ly say,  that  I  have  no  where  witnessed  so  much  subordina- 
tion, peace,  and  friendship  as  among  the  Indians  in  the  Or- 
egon Territory.  The  day  may  be  rued,  when  their  order 
and  harmony  shall  be  interrupted  by  any  instrumentality 
whatever. 

There  are  exceptions,  however,  to  the  general  fact  of  the 
good  conduct  of  the  chiefs  and  the  respect  which  is  given 
them.  Cazenove,  the  first  chief  of  the  Chenook  nation,  is 
one.  He  was  a  great  warrior,  and  before  the  desolating 
sickness,  which  commenced  in  the  year  1829,  be  could  bring 
a  thousand  warriors  into  action.  He  is  a  man  of  talents, 
and  his  personal  appearance  is  noble,  and  ought  to  repre- 
sent a  nature  kind  and  generous  ;  but  such  is  his  character, 
that  his  influence  is  retained  among  his  people  more  by  fear 
than  by  affection.  I  saw  him  often,  and  several  times  at  my 
room,  while  at  Fort  Vancouver.  On  Tuesday,  February 
2d,  I  attended  the  funeral  of  his  only  son,  and  heir  to  his 
chieftainship,  a  young  man,  who  had  lingered  under  a  pro- 
tracted disease.  Cazenove  departed  from  the  long  estab- 
lished  custom  of  his  nation  and  fathers,  of  depositing  their 
dead  in  canoes,  and  had  him  buried  in  the  cemetery  of  the 
Fort,  in  the  decent  manner  of  civilized  people.  He  had 
the  coffin  made  large  for  the  purpose  of  putting  into  ic 
clothing,  blankets, and  such  other  articles,  as  he  supposed 
necessary  for  his  comfort  in  the  world  to  which  he  was 
gone.  Every  thing  connected  with  the  ceremony  of  his 
interment  was  conducted  with  great  propriety.     I  was  not 


■V- 

,    V 

i  L..1 

.  •  b,'- 

•  .. 

it-; 

% 

a-- 

ft'    ' 

;M 


.:.  •■■•»  ii»;  »J«  L;  -i 


V  ,-»• 


!|,: 


,    V' 


I 


252 


■THE  INDIANS  OF 


'^M^ 


'^U 


-% 


••r 


•  '.'V  .  ;■  i  ♦'.■;;  . 


1  • 


(    ! 


at  the  time  furnished  with  an  interpreter,  but  addressed 
those  present  who  understood  EngHsh.  Cazenove  express- 
ed  his  satisfaction  that  an  address  was  given,  considering  it 
an  expression  of  respect  for  his  son ;  and  he  appeared  sol. 
cmn  in  his  affliction,  indulging  tears  only,  and  not  any  loud 
lamentations.  Had  he  conducted  with  equal  propriety  sub- 
ecquently,  he  would  have  been  worthy  of  commendation. 
But  he  did  not,  for  when  he  returned  to  his  dwelling  that 
evening,  he  attempted  to  kill  the  mother  of  this  deceased 
eon,  and  who  was  the  daughter  of  Concomly,  and  formerly 
the  wife  of  Mr.  McDougal.  The  chiefs  say,  that  they  and 
their  sons  are  too  great  to  die  of  themselves,  and  although  i 
they  may  be  sick,  and  decline,  and  die,  as  others  do,  yet 
some  body,  or  some  evil  spirit  instigated  by  some  body,  is 
the  invisible  cause  of  their  death ;  and  therefore  when  a 
chief,  or  chief's  son  dies,  the  supposed  author  of  the  deed 
^ust  be  killed.  Cazenove,  on  this  occasion,  fixed  on  the 
mother  of  this  son  as  the  victim  of  his  rage,  notwithstand. 
ing  she  had  been  most  assiduous  in  her  attention  to  him, 
during  his  protracted  sickness.  Of  his  several  wives,  she 
was  the  most  beloved,  and  his  misguided  mind  led  him  tol 
believe,  that  the  greater  the  sacrifice,  the  greater  the  man. 
ifcstation  of  his  attachment  to  his  son,  and  the  more  propi. 
tiatory  to  his  departed  spirit.  She  fled  into  the  woods,  and 
the  next  morning,  when  the  gates  were  opened,  she  came 
into  this  fort  and  implored  protection.  She  was  secreted 
here  several  days,  until  her  friends  at  Chenook  Bay  heardi 
of  her  situation,  and  came  and  secretly  took  her  away. 
Some  days  after  this,  a  woman  was  found  killed  by  the  hand 
of  violence,  and  it  was  supposed  it  was  done  by  Cuzenovel 
.or  by  some  one  in  his  employ. 


C0NVEB8ATI0N  WITH  AN  INDIAN. 


253 


*  ■ 
I" 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


'«- »    T:  '-It  . 


I 


Conversation  with  an  intelligent  Indian— meeting  with  Indiana— «ariy 
and  mild  season — La  Dalle  Indians — their  anxiety  to  receive  the  gos- 
pel—ornithology— Nootka  humming  bird — number  and  location  of  the 
Indians  in  the  lower  country — Indians  of  the  north — the  agitated 
question — solitariness. 


A  VERY  intelligent  and  influential  Indian  from  the  Cas- 
cades called  at  my  room,  on  the  8th  of  February,  to  en- 
quire about  God.  I  endeavored  to  obtain  from  him  his  own 
system  of  religion.  He  said,  he  believed  there  is  a  God, 
and  he  supposed  he  made  all  things,  but  did  not  know 
any  thing  more  about  him.  I  questioned  him  in  regcrd  to 
his  belief  of  a  future  state,  and  what  he  expected  would  be- 
come of  him  when  he  died.  He  said  he  did  not  know.  He 
supposed,  that  he  should  have  an  existence  after  death,  but 
did  not  know  of  what  sort  it  would  be  ;  and  wished  I  wouid 
lell  him.  I  endeavored  to  enlighten  his  mind,  and  to  un- 
fold to  him  the  great  fundamental  truths  of  God  and  eter- 
nity, and  the  way  to  be  saved.  He  listened  with  attention, 
and  appeared  sober.  He  told  me  the  Indirns  were  growing 
better ;  that  they  did  not  kill  each  other  in  wars  as  in  times 
past ;  that  they  did  not  rob  and  steal  as  heretofore.  I  told 
aim  that  was  good,  but  to  be  saved,  they  must  repent  and  re- 
ceive the  Savior  by  faith,  as  the  only  one  who  could 
nve  sinners.  So  l)enighted  arc  the  minds  of  these  hea- 
then, and  so  barren  their  language  upon  spiritual  and  invis- 
ible subjects,  that  I  had  to  use  such  illustrations,  as  I  judg- 
ed the  best  adapted  to  convoy  to  his  mind  divine  trttth,  and 
ido  not  doubt,  but  thnt  he  received  some  divine  knowledge. 

The  next  day  he  called  again,  and  wished  me  to  take  his 
22 


'» 


254 


SERVICE  WITH  THE  INDIANS. 


^:m.^ 


'^^^l 


I 


•  #..•  • 


.(* 


children  and  teach  them  how  to  read  and  write,  and  how 
to  worship  God.  I  endeavored  to  explain  to  him  the  object 
of  ray  tour,  and  that  when  I  returned,  I  would  use  my  influ. 
ence  to  have  others  come  and  live  among  them.  But  he 
wanted  to  have  me  continue  with  them  and  instruct  them. 
And  when  I  told  him  I  must  go,  and  endeavor  to  get  sever. 
al  to  come  and  teach  in  difTereut  tribes,  he  wished  to  know 
how  many  sleeps  it  would  take  me  to  go,  and  how  many 
sleeps  before  others  would  come.  I  told  him  it  would  be  a 
great  number.  He  wished  to  know  if  it  would  be  moons. 
I  answered  in  the  affirmative,  and  told  him  it  would  be  at 
least  two  snows.  He  paused  and  looked  sorrowful.  His 
very  look  affected  me  ;  he  arose  and  went  out. 

Sabbath,  14th.     I  attended  service  as  usual  in  English. 
There  were  many  Indians  from  the  La  Dalles  who  wisii.  i 
ed  to  know  if  they  might  be  present.     We  told  them  there  I 
would  not  be  sufficient  room  in  the  hall ;  but  a  few  or| 
their  chiefs  might  attend,  and  that  after  the  English  service, 
I  would  have  service  with  them ;  and  I  met  with  them  in  j 
the  afternoon.     They  were  punctual  at  the  hour,  and  came 
in  single  file,  the  first  chief  leading  the  way.     When  I 
prayed  with  them,  they  all  kneeled  down  except  two  or  three,) 
and  these  were  reprimanded  by  the  chief  for  impropriety  of 
conduct,  which  was  soberly  received  and  implicitly  obeyed.! 
As  on  other  similar  occasions,  I  endeavoi*ed  to  instruct  them 
in  the  first  principles  of  our  revealed  religion ;  to  which 
they  gave  close  attention.     The  first  chief,  at  the  close  o( 
service  wished  to  speak ;  and  on  permission  being  given,  hel 
spoke  a  short  time  to  his  people,  and  then  told  me  ho  liad 
prayed  much  to  the  Great  fci>irit,  and  found  his  heart  was] 
no  better,  but  worse.     He  said,  a  white  man  gave  them  al 
flag,  and  told  them  to  set  it  up  on  a  pole,  on  Sundays,  and! 
meet  and  pray,  sing  their  songs,  and  dnnro  around  the  pole 
bearing  the  flag ;  and  that  they  had  done  so  a  long  time' 

*  The  reason  assigned  for  including  dancing  in  rhc  services  of  tho  \\o\ 


'\. 


i 

' '  -J 


I- 


EARLY  SPRING. 


255 


He  wished  to  know  if  it  was  right.  I  told  him  it  was  right 
to  meet  on  the  sabbath,  and  pray,  and  sing,  and  talk  about 
God,  but  to  dance  on  the  sabbath  was  very  wrong,  and  would 
offend  God.  I  added  farther,  that  they  needed  some  person 
to  teach  them  in  the  right  way  to  worship  God  and  to  be 
saved.  He  was  affected,  and  kneeled  down  and  with  tears 
in  bis  eyes  said,  if  you  must  go  away,  do  send  us  somebody 
to  teach  us  the  right  way  to  serve  God.  We  will  now 
throw  away  what  the  man  said  to  us  about  dancing.  We 
will  go  to  our  people  and  tell  them  what  you  have  c^aid,  and 
we  will  worship  God  as  you  have  taught  us.  I  never  felt  so 
much  like  weeping  over  the  heathen,  as  on  this  occasion ; 
to  see  this  poor  benighted  Indian  chief  upon  his  knees,  and 
with  tears  in  his  eyes  pleading  for  some  one  to  come  and 
teach  them  the  way  to  heaven.  What  a  spectacle  for 
angels! 

March  1st.  We  have  many  indications  of  the  presence 
of  spring.  The  mildness  of  the  climate,  and  the  soft  tem. 
perature  of  the  season,  west  of  the  mountains,  render  it  one 
of  the  most  delightful  portions  of  our  continent.  The  wide 
and  often  sudden  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  to  which  the 
eastern  portions  are  subject,  are  almost  unknown  here,  and 
while  it  is  more  agreeable  to  our  feelings,  it  is  also  more  fa. 
vorable  to  health*  Those  who  have  the  charge  of  the 
farming  establishment  at  this  place,  have  commenced  thus 
early  to  cultivate  their  spring  crops  ;  and  the  gardener  is  pre- 
paring his  ground  for  the  seeds.  The  grass  in  the  yard  be- 
gins to  assume  its  beautiful,  fresh  green.  The  robin  and 
blackbird  have  continued  here  through  the  winter,  and  now, 
with  some  others  of  their  feathered  brethren,  resume  their 
cheerful  warblings  in  the  fields  and  groves.     During   the 


«"i  ''■   ■■■■•  -Vf: 


.   *   •  •k 


ly  sabbath,  was  the  fcor,  that  singing  and  praying,  without  dancing, 
would  not  interest  the  Indians ;  and  to  include  it,  would  not  lie  so  great 
a  departure  from  their  coromon  practices,  as  to  excite  aversion  to  pure 
worship. 


256 


LA  DALLE  INDIANS. 


;^-  h,^^' 


U 


'''  wf^'»''-  '■■'.'  ■;  *   .■ 

mm  •  : 


r'.f^htd^-'    ■'■■ 

.  If. .  ^'  \*,jf . ' . ..  , 


.';'^.  yr* , 


'l-f 


Si. .■■•-. 


winter,  the  thermometer  has  not  fallen  below  22°  Fahrenheit, 
and  to  this  point  only  three  days.  At  this  date  it  stood, 
at  sunrise,  at  37°  ;  at  noon,  46° ;  and  at  sunset  at  44°. 
The  rains  through  the  winter  have  been  less  constant  and 
heavy  than  I  had  anticipated  ;  and  snow  has  fallen  only  ten 
days,  sometimes  in  trifling  quantities,  and  at  no  one  time 
over  the  depth  of  six  inches,  and  has  remained  on  the  ground 
only  a  few  days.  Some  have  supposed,  that  the  genial  cli. 
mate  of  the  Oregon  Territory  is  attributable  to  the  proximi. 
ty  of  the  great  Pacific,  shedding  the  influence  of  its  soft 
winds  far  into  the  interior.  But  the  fact  is,  that  almost  the 
only  winds  through  the  winter  are  easterly  winds,  conse. 
quently  coming  direct  from  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow. 

Swallows  made  their  appearance  on  the  12th  of  RIarch ; 
and  among  them  a  new  species,  characterized  by  the  pfu. 
mage  of  their  head  and  back  being  a  most  beautiful  change. 
able  green,  with  other  parts  purple  and  white. 

A  number  of  the  La  Dalles  Indians  arrived  to-day,  who 
reside  eighty  miles  di-^tant.  One  of  their  chiefs  stated  to 
my  friend  Mr.  T.  that  they  had  changed  their  mode  of 
worship ;  that  they  do  not  now  dance  on  the  sabbath,  as 
they  used  to  do,  but  they  meet,  and  sing,  and  pray ;  and 
that  since  they  have  been  better  acquainted  with  the  way 
to  worship  God,  He  hears  their  prayers,  and  that  now, 
when  they,  and  their  wives  and  children,  are  hungry,  they 
pray  for  deer,  and  they  go  out  to  hunt,  and  God  sends  them 
deer  to  satisfy  their  wants.  It  was  interesting  to  know 
that  they  were  disposed  to  do,  as  well  as  listen  to,  what  is 
taught  them. 

Sabbath,  13th.  Besides  the  usual  service  in  the  hall  in 
English,  I  met  the  Indians  from  the  La  Dalles,  and  endeav- 
ored to  exhibit  to  them  the  great  truths  of  the  Bible.  They 
listened  with  deep  interest  to  what  I  said,  and  then  enquir- 
ed whether  they  might  expect,  after  I  should  go  away,  that 
some  one  would  como  and  teach  them.     I  could  not  promise, 


THE  NOOTKA  HUMMING  BIRD. 


257 


but  replied,  that  I  hoped  it  would  not  be  more  than  two 
snows,  before  some  one  would  be  sent.  They  enquired  if 
after  one  or  two  sleeps,  I  would  let  them  come  to  my  room 
and  hear  more  about  God.  I  appointed  to  meet  them  on 
Tuesday  afternoon,  and  spoke  with  them  several  succeed* 
ing  times  before  their  departure. 

It  seems  apparent  to  any  observing  christian,  that  the 
present  is  the  favorable  time  for  the  introduction  of  the 
gospel  and  civilization  among  the  natives  of  this  wide  in. 
terior.  Soon  the  cupidity  and  avarice  of  men  will  make 
the  same  aggressions  here,  as  on  the  east,  and  the  deadly  in- 
fluence of  frontier  vices  will  interpose  a  barrier  to  the  reli- 
gion  which  they  now  are  so  anxious  to  embrace  and  prac- 
tice. Every  circumstance  combines  to  point  out  the  time 
when  this  work  should  begin,  and  not  the  Ictist  is  that,  which 
has  enlisted  these  Indians  in  favor  of  white  men,  and  made 
them  feel  that  their  condition,  in  all  respects,  for  this  world, 
as  well  as  the  coming  one,  is  better  than  their  own.  A 
well-established  christian  influence  among  these  tribes, 
would  surely  be  respected  by  any,  who  otherwise  would  in- 
vade  their  rights,  and  deprive  them  of  a  home  dear  to  them, 
as  our  own  is  to  us. 

March  24th.  The  season  is  progressing  in  delightful 
mildness.  Flowering  shrubbery  and  plants  are  bcgining  to 
send  forth  their  fragrance  ;  and  the  Nootka  humming  bird 
has  arrived,  and  is  seen  darting  from  bush  to  bush,  feeding 
upon  the  opening  flowers.  This  most  splendid  species  is 
not  known  east  of  the  mountains.  The  whole  of  the  upper 
part  of  the  body  is  rufous,  its  head  greenish,  its  throat  cupre- 
ous and  metalloidal  crimson,  varying  according  to  the  inci- 
dence of  light.  The  throat  of  this  species  resembles  that 
of  the  common,  except,  that  it  is  even  more  gorgeous  in  its 
colors,  and  in  presenting  the  metalic  feathers,  forms  a  broad 
ruif  in  the  inferior  part  of  the  neck,  instead  of  being  whol- 

ly  a  component  part  of  the  plumage.     A  new  species  of 
22* 


■  ■■        , 


f"-"t     '..''4  -.Jf- 


•5      z^ 


1  i 


m. 


266 


THE  INDIAir 


fT4  •  •■« 


n^.my:^-^ 


It     ^   •    '■      .'iA*   1* 

'  \  >  •   -7>'  ■>  •    ■  ■ 

(•■  1  >■•  •}'  »^     'i*'^^     • 
||-;^  !  J:  .»'  ;,v  -'     ='" 


blue  bird  of  uncommonly  beautiful  plumage;  arrived  on  the 
14th.  The  swan,  the  several  species  of  geese,  and  the  sand 
hill  crane,  are  passing  to  the  north  for  incubation.  Their 
screaming  notes  are  constantly  heard,  and  in  the  night  not 
the  most  inviting  to  repose. 

Before  leaving  the  lower  country,  it  will  be  proper  to  pre. 
sent,  in  a  connected  point  of  view,  the  best  informati(»i  I 
have  been  able  to  obtain  of  the  several  nations,  their  loca- 
tions,  and  numbers.  There  are  several  tribes,  about  whom 
my  knowledge  is  too  limited,  to  make  any  definite  state, 
ments.  Among  these  are  those  about  Pugets  Sound,  and  the 
upper  part  of  the  Cowlitz ;  also  the  Chiltz  Indians,  north 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  and  Chealis  rivers.  And  al. 
though  I  have  seen  many  of  the  Klicatat  nation,  who  re- 
side at  the  north  of  the  Cascades,  yet  I  have  not  been  able 
to  learn  of  them  any  thing  more  definite,  than  that  they  arc 
a  large  nation.  The  Chenook  nation  resides  along  upon 
the  Columbia  river,  from  the  Cascades  to  its  confluence 
with  the  ocean,  and  though  once  numei'ous  and  powerful, 
they  do  not  now  number  more  than  fifteen  hundred,  or  two 
thousand.  The  Calanooah  nation  arc  located  south  of  the 
Chenooks,  upon  the  Willamette  river  and  its  branches. 
They  are  divided  into  seventeen  different  tribes,  under  their 
respective  chiefs,  and  number  about  eight  thousand  seven 
hundred  and  eighty  persons,  who  speak  the  same  language, 
radically,  with  only  a  little  difference  in  dialect.  They  are 
scattered  over  a  territory  of  two  hundred  miles,  north  and 
south,  and  sixty  east  and  weat.  Their  country  is  uncom- 
monly good. 

South  of  the  Calapooah  is  the  Umbaqu&  nation,  residing 
in  a  valley  of  the  same  name.  They  are  divided  into  six 
tribes;  the  Sconta,  Chalula,  Palakahu,  Quattamya,  and 
Chaste.  Their  number  is  about  seven  thousand.  South 
of  this  nation  and  north  of  California,  there  was  a  very 
powerful  nation  called  the  Kincl&,  which,  before  the  year 
J 629,  numbered  four  thousand  warriors.     But,  if  they  have 


iP.v..-' 


V     *. 


NATIOlfS. 


259 


been  swept  away  by  sickness,  as  the  other  nations  of  the 
lovrer  country  have,  it  is  probable  their  whole  number  of  men, 
women,  and  children,  would  not  now  amount  to  more  than 
eight  thousand. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  along  the  coast,  are  the 
Killamooks  who  are  numerous,  but  their  numbers  are  not 
known.  South  of  these,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Umbaqu£L 
river,  there  are  the  Saliutla,  and  two  other  tribes  supposed 
to  number  2050  persons. 

This  estimate  of  the  Indians,  in  the  lower  country,  makes 
the  number  of  those  known,  to  be  about  twenty-five  thou- 
sand. This  is  probably  a  low  estimate.  It  may  safely  be 
concluded  from  facts  now  collected,  that  there  are,  between 
the  42°  and  47°  north  latitude,  in  what  we  term  the  lower 
country,  as  many  as  twenty -five  thousand  more,  making 
fifty  thousand,  who  at  the  present  moment  would  gladly  re- 
ceive  teachers. 

Gentlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  gave  the  follow. 
iog  statements  of  the  number  of  Indians  north  of  Pugets 
Sound  ;  viz.  at  Millbank  Sound,  three  tribes,  numbering 
two  thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty.six.  At  Hygdna 
Harbor,  five  tribes  or  bands,  amounting  to  two  thousand 
ninety-two.  At  Queen  Charlottes  Island,  eleven  tribes, 
numbering  eight  thousand  six  hundred  persons.  About 
Hanaga  and  Chatham  Straits,  there  are  nine  tribes,  con- 
taining six  thousand  one  hundred  and  sixty  persons.  Ma- 
king the  whole  number  of  inhabitants,  at  and  about  these 
places  between  the  47°  and  55°  of  north  latitude,  nineteen 
thousand  thirty.eight.  At  Queen  Charlottes  Island  there  is 
a  field  of  much  promise  for  a  missionary  station,  where  the 
necessaries  of  life  could  be  easily  obtained,  and  for  that  high 
northern  latitude,  the  climate  is  very  mild. 

Their  summer  and  winter  residences  are  built  of  split 
plank,  in  about  the  same  manner  as  those  of  the  Chenooks. 
It  is  said  they  are  well  supplied  with  fish,  fowl,  oil,  berries, 
and  potatoes  of  superior  quality  and  in  great  abundance ; 


.1  ' 

*   ^■ 

l'. 

•"  \<  . 

m  ' 

«•: 

-         %.' 

*» '. 

■ 

*"' ' 

• 

.^  , 

¥  .   ,          ' 

», 

.  ■•  • 

*•  " 

i.  ) 

fH 

* 

*'^    V 


f.  ^"•••. 


'V 


I) 


m^ 


mt 


I!  hi 


^*^:'^ 


■'^•r;:':^ 


»-4-  ■  •   '     ■ 


.  'l■^^lf';^a,■4•'^■H,v 
<ini,»..i-.    .Hyf'-'ijt   -r  -.  . 

,.<,.  „..',f         ■,  ^f>     v>'    -I'  '-■ 


ret'?  "t-  --^fir 


260 


DUELING. 


and  wild  meat  is  sometimes  obtained.  Their  dress  is  much 
the  same  as  what  has  already  been  described.  Polygamy 
prevails,  and  also  slavery.  They  do  not  treat  their  slaves 
as  kindly,  as  the  Indians  in  the  lower  country  of  the  Oregon 
Territory  treat  theirs.  They  think  no  more  of  killing  their 
slaves  than  the  loss  of  property.  Sometimes  when  one 
chief  becomes  offended  with  another,  instead  of  fighting  a 
duel,  he  goes  home  and  kills  a  certain  number  of  slaves,  and 
challenges  the  other  to  kill  as  many.  The  challenged  per. 
son,  if  he  can,  kills  as  many  or  more,  and  notifies  the  chal- 
lenger of  the  number ;  and  thus  they  proceed  until  one  or 
the  other  gains  the  victory;  and  the  one  who  fails  in 
this  mode  of  combat  ceases  to  be  a  gentleman.  "  The  point 
of  honor  "  with  these  barbarous  gentry  is  fixed  higher  than 
in  our  christian  country,  for  here  the  life  of  one  satisfies  the 
powerfiil  principle,  but  there  blood  must  flow  profusely  to 
quench  the  noble  fire  of  high  minded  revenge.  They  are 
not  unfrequently  engaged  in  wars,  which  are  often  very 
bloody. 

They  are  much  addicted  to  gambling,  singing,  and 
dancing;  and  it  is  said  their  voices  excel.  The  coun. 
try  is  mountainous,  and  is  generally  covered  with  dense  for- 
ests,  consisting  mostly  of  fir. 

On  and  about  McKenzie  river  there  are  six  tribes  of  I 
Indians,  making  a  population  of  about  four  thousand  two 
hundred  and  seventy-five.  The  climate  is  very  cold  and 
unpleasant ;  but  as  cold  and  uninviting  as  it  is,  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  have  found  men  who  are  willing  to  reside 
there  in  sufliicient  numbers  to  make  six  establishments,  for 
the  purpose  of  obtaining  the  peltries  which  the  Indians  col- 
lect. Their  principal  establishment,  which  is  Fort  Simp- 
son, is  on  the  upper  part  of  the  river  and  is  a  place  of  much 
resort  for  the  Indians. 

March  26  th.     Rode  down  once  more  to  the  lower  plains, 
OS  they  are  called,  and  was  delighted  with  the  freshness  of  I 
the  wheat  fields,  which  are  beginning  to  wave  in  the  gentle ! 


THE  AOITATXD  QUKSTION. 


261 


breezes,  and  the  forest  trees  are  beginning  to  show  their 
leaves,  and  the  plants  their  flowers.  The  sea  fowl,  which 
through  the  winter  covered  these  fields,  are  gone  to  their 
summer  residences,  and  the  little  feathered  tribes  are  tuning 
their  notes,  which  though  less  in  sound  than  the  swan,  are 
vet  more  full  of  melodv. 

Whose  country  is  this?  is  a  question  which  has  been  agi- 
tated in  the  parliament  of  Great  Britian  and  in  the  congress 
of  the  United  States.  The  natives  claim  i :  as  theirs,  and 
say  they  only  permit  white  men  to  reside  among  them.  But 
the  governments  of  Great  Britain  and  of  the  United  States 
have  assumed  the  right  to  lay  their  claims ;  Great  Britain 
claiming  the  Columbia  river  for  their  southern  boundary, 
and  the  United  States  the  49°  of  north  latitude  for  their 
northern  boundary.  The  two  governments  have  discuss- 
ed the  question,  but  postponed  it  until  1838,  when  it  is  to 
be  again  taken  up  for  discussion.  The  United  States  claims 
the  49°  on  the  ground,  that  as  that  parallel  is  established  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  so  by  parity  of  rea- 
soning, it  should  be  continued  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  Great 
Britain  claims  the  Columbia  river,  for  her  southern  bound- 
ary, by  right  of  discovery  ;  Captain  Broughton  of  the  ship 
Chatham,  having  ascended  the  river  with  two  boats,  as  far 
as  to  where  Fort  Vancouver  is  now  situated,  and  having 
formally  taken  possession  of  the  river  and  country  in  the 
Dame  of  his  Britannic  Majesty,  on  the  31st  of  October, 
1792.  Captain  Broughton  was  associated  with  Captain 
Vancouver  of  the  ship  Discovery,  on  a  voyage  of  discove- 
ry in  the  north  Pacific,  and  around  the  world.  The  posses- 
sion was  taken  in  his  Britannic  Majesty's  name  in  due  form. 
A  friendly  old  chief,  who  did  not  understand  a  word  of  their 
language,  nor  they  a  word  of  his,  was  invited  to  join  in  the 
ceremony,  and  to  drink  his  Majesty's  health.  Captain 
Broughton  says  the  chief  appeared  much  pleased  with  the 
transaction.     But  it  may  be  a  subject  of  inquiry,  with 


f . 

*    .  •  ' 

..'  ■ 

'-■'^".S 

«: 

■*•» 

I  '. 

•'     ■    '  ■  .  ' 

i>  ■ 

.^'^ 


262 


.^f 


SOLITABINESS.     Vl*!' 


which  the  old  friendly  chief  was  best  pleased,  with  the  rum 
he  drank  on  the  occasion,  or  with  the  ceremony  which  was 
so  full  of  import  ?  And  farther,  did  the  chief,  by  partaking 
of  his  Majesty's  rum  and  joining  in  the  ceremony,  cede  all 
this  country  to  be  the  bona  fide  property  of  a  foreign  na- 
tion ?  These  deep  and  intricate  questions  I  leave  for  learn, 
ed  diplomatists  to  decide,  retaining  my  private  opinion  that 
the  Indians  have  a  priority  of  claim. 

The  time  has  arrived  when  I  expect  to  resume  the  work 
of  further  exploration.  The  weeks  and  months  which  I 
have  spent  here  have  fled  rapidly  away,  while  I  have  been 
feebly  endeavoring  during  the  winter  to  benefit  the  people 
of  the  fort,  and  the  Indians ;  and  to  embrace  all  the  oppor. 
tunities  that  should  present,  to  collect  information  in  those 
particulars  which  pertain  to  the  direct  object  of  my  tour. 
I  shall  wander  for  a  length  of  time,  yet  future,  among  the  wild 
Rcenes  of  nature,  which  have  so  giatified  and  delighted  me 
in  traversing  the  wilderness  of  forest  and  prairie ;  but  my 
heart  looks  back  to  a  variety  of  the  interesting  scenes  of  { 
civilized  life  and  cultivated  society  in  my  own  far  distant 
|and«  and  I  ardently  desire  to  see  the  wide  field  lying  before 
me,  brought  under  the  same  beauty  and  cultivation.  All  the 
social  afiections  of  our  nature  strongly  desire  the  happiness,  | 
which  refined  and  christian  society  and  its  concomitant 
blessings  can  alone  give.  A  feeling  of  solitariness,  and  of 
desolation  comes  over  the  mind  as  you  stand  on  the  banks 
of  the  noble  Columbia,  and  perhaps  for  weeks,  it  may  be  for 
months,  no  whitened  sail  becomes  visible  to  the  gaze  of  your 
watching  eye.  At  length  a  ship  enters  its  waters,  and  the 
Indians  hasten  fifty  miles  to  tell  you  the  white  man's  great 
canoe,  with  its  three  upright  sticks,  is  on  its  way,  to  bring 
a  new  supply  of  blankets,  beads,  and  tobacco.  The  most 
unimportant  incidents  become  interesting  events,  where  so| 
much  monotony  exists. 

Monday,  11th  April.  Having  made  arrangements  to  leave 


LIBERALITY. 


263 


this  place  on  the  14th,  I  called  upon  the  chief  clerk  for  my 
bill.  He  said  the  Company  had  made  no  bill  against  me, 
but  felt  a  pleasure  in  gratuitously  conferring  all  they  have 
done  for  the  benefit  of  the  object  in  which  I  am  engaged. 
In  justice  to  my  own  feelings,  and  in  gratitude  to  the  Hon. 
orable  Company,  I  would  bear  testimony  to  their  consist- 
ent politeness  and  generosity  ;  and  while  I  do  this,  I  would 
express  my  anxiety  for  their  salvation,  and  that  they  may 
be  rewarded  in  spiritual  blessings.  In  addition  to  the  ci- 
vilities I  had  received  as  a  guest,  I  had  drawn  upon  their 
store  for  clothing,  for  goods  to  pay  my  Indians,  whom  I  had 
employed  to  convey  me  in  canoes,  in  my  various  journey- 
ings,  hundreds  of  miles  ;  to  pay  my  guides  and  interpreters ; 
and  have  drawn  upon  their  provision  store  for  the  support  of 
these  men  while  in  my  employ. 


...  F  r 


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264 


DXPASTUSB  FOR  THE  UPPER  OOVIfTSY. 


■fi  :      .. 


>;■* 


CHAPTER  XX. 


Departure  for  the  upper  country— American  hunters— geology  at  the  Cas- 
cades— Indian  honesty— dangerous  escape  in  a  gale — the  Falls  a  fa- 
vorable location  for  a  missionary  station— tender  sympathy— famished 
Indians — arrival  at  Walla  Walla— interesting  meeiing  of  Indians— op- 
portunity to  give  them  religious  instruction— a  walk — the  nutritious 
quality  of  prairie  grass.  ... 


April  14th.  Having  exchanged  farewells  with  the  gen. 
tlemen  of  the  fort,  whose  kindness  I  shall  ever  remember, 
I  took  passage  in  a  canoe  of  an  Indian  chief  belonging  to 
the  La  Dalles.  Our  company  consisted  of  the  chief  and 
his  daughter,  another  Indian  who  took  the  bow,  a  half-blood, 
named  Baptiste,  who  took  the  stern,  and  two  white  men,  who, 
with  the  chief,  helped  propel  the  canoe,  making  seven  per. 
sons.  These,  with  the  baggage  of  several  hundred  weight, 
loaded  the  frail  craft  so  heavily,  that  its  sides  were  only 
about  seven  inches  above  water.  This,  upon  a  river  aver, 
aging  about  a  mile  in  width,  with  many  rapids,  and  subject 
to  winds,  was  not  a  pleasant  undertaking.  But  at  this  sea. 
son  of  the  year,  when  the  Indians  are  about  to  commence 
fishing,  another  canoe  could  not  be  obtained. 

We  proceeded  up  the  river  about  twelve  miles,  to  what 
are  called  the  upper  plains,  on  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
and  encamped.  This  is  a  rich  and  beautiful  prairie  of  some 
miles  in  circumference,  and  at  this  early  part  of  the  spring 
was  covered  with  a  coat  of  fresh  green  grass  five  or  six 
inches  high.  A  little  back  from  the  river,  there  is  a  beau- 
tiful lake,  which  is  the  resort  of  water  fowl  sailing  about,  ex* 
hibiting  their  unsullied  plumage ;  and  in  the  rear  are 
forests  of  fir,  whither  the  deer,  which  crop  the  grass  of 


GEOLOGY  AT  THE  CASCADES. 


265 


Is 


gy  attheCae- 
he  Falls  a  fa- 
thy — famished 
f  Indians— op- 
-the  nutritious 


i  I  '  \ 


th  the  gen. 
r  remember, 
)elonging  to 
le  chief  and 
a  half-blood, 
Lte  men,  who, 
g  seven  per- 
Ldred  weight, 
were  only 
river  aver- 
and  subject 
t  at  this  sea- 
commence 

es,  to  what 
of  the  river, 
airie  of  some 
.f  the  spring 
ss  five  or  six 
re  is  a  beau- 
ng  about,  ex- 
he  rear  are 
;he  grass  of 


the  prairie  flee,  when  they  see  men  ascend  the  river's  bank. 
\  gathering  storm  rendered  the  night  dark,  cold,  and  drea- 
rv ;  for  as  yet  no  friendly  habitations  are  reared  upon  these 
fertile  tieldn  for  the  resort  and  comfort  of  man. 

Th(  rain  continuing  with  some  wind,  we  did  not  decamp 
on  the  morning  of  the  15th,  until  a  late  hour ;  after  which 
we  passed  up  into  the  mountainous  part  of  the  country  he- 
iow  the  Cascades,  and  encamped  near  the  high  Piliar  rock 
which  I  have  mentioned.  Soon  after  leaving  our  encamp, 
ment  this  morning,  we  met  Captain  W.  with  a  small  com- 
pany  of  men  in  two  canoes  lashed  together,  on  their  way  to 
Fort  William  upon  WiLppatoo  island.  They  were  wet  with 
the  rain  of  the  morning ;  and  their  meagre  countenances 
and  tattered  garments  did  not  speak  much  in  favor  of  the 
happiness  of  mountain  life,  or  that  they  had  found  the  hun- 
ter's  eiysium.  But  they  were  in  good  spirits  and  passed 
merrily  on  their  way. 

The  basaltic  rocks,  which  wall  up  the  shores,  in  some 
places  two  and  three  hundred  feet  perpendicular,  and  for 
miles,  do  not  loose  in  interest  by  review.  For  more  than 
half  a  mile  the  basalt  presented  the  regular  pentagons. 
Near  these,  where  the  shore  was  inaccessable,  we  /ound  a 
deer  almost  exhausted  with  swimming  in  the  cold  water. 
Its  condition  and  its  mild,  large,  black  eye,  excited  by  fear, 
pleaded  for  the  exercise  of  humanity  ;  but  our  men,  instead 
of  rendering  it  that  assistance  which  it  needed,  shot  it,  and 
stained  the  pure  water  of  the  river  with  its  blood.  I  could 
not  help  feeling  a  sympathy  for  this  poor,  beautiful  animal. 

While  the  men,  on  the  morning  of  the  16th,  were  enga- 
ged in  taking  the  canoe  up  the  rapids  and  the  Cascades,  I 
walked  five  miles,  sometimes  along  the  shore  of  the  river, 
and  sometimes  climbing  over  precipices ;  and  so  laborious 
was  the  task  to  get  the  canoe  above  all  the  rapids  and  falls, 
that  it  occupied  most  of  the  day,  giving  me    time    for 

examining  the  scenery  around.     Almost  every  variety  of 
23 


.«»•?■.■ 


.    ;       ■ 


mi 


266 


INDIAN  HONESTY. 


t .  v-r ;. 


'  ('■  •* 


•'t.    v' 


l^^lf 


,      i 


i 


>■»*. 


P'« 


^j^^ 


volcanic  production  was  to  be  seen,  mostly  basalt  and  amyg. 
daloid.  Large  quantities  of  petrified  wood  were  scattered 
along  the  shores,  some  of  which  preserved  its  natural  ap. 
pcarancc,  but  the  large  blocks  on  being  broken  presented 
the  appearance  of  mineral  coal.  The  scenery  arounu  is 
grand ;  yet  such  was  the  misty  state  of  the  atmosphere 
about  the  tops  of  the  mountains,  which  were  at  this  time 
covered  with  snow,  and  a  chilliness  accompanying,  that  the 
enjoyment  was  less  than  would  be  felt  under  other  circiim. 
stances.  After  having  finished  the  portage  by  the  Cascades, 
we  launched  out  upon  the  gentle  current  above,  and  pro. 
ceeded  up  the  river  two  miles  and  encamped  upon  the  north 
side.  Several  Indians  came  to  our  encampment  and  man. 
ifested  &  kind  and  sociable  disposition.  They  told  us  that 
Captain  W.  the  day  before,  in  cordelling  his  canoes  down 
the  Cascades,  lost  one,  and  with  it  baggage,  of  which  the\ 
had  found  some  articles,  and  they  would  deliver  them  to 
him  when  he  should  again  pass  this  way.  The  Indians  are 
coming  in  from  their  winter  retreats,  and  are  engaged  in 
catching  sturgeon. 

The  17th  being  the  sabbath,  we  did  not  remove.  It  was 
a  rainy  day,  ihe  forepart  of  which,  the  rain  came  down  like 
torrents,  which  is  common  about  these  mountains  through 
the  rainy  season  of  the  year.  We  were  not  able  to  makt 
a  fire  for  preparing  food,  until  after  twelve  o'clock,  when 
the  rain  began  to  abate. 

On  Monday  the  weather  was  more  pleasant,  though  chil 
ly,  and  we  made  very  good  progress  up  the  river,  through  | 
a  country  of  diversified  scenery.  Though  less  mountain- 
ous, yet  there  were  some  mountains  of  interesting  formo:| 
one  almost  a  perfect  cone,  a  thousand  feet  high,  rising  at  an 
angle  of  45  degrees,  Ijeautifully  smooth  and  covered  with 
grass.  We  passed,  a  few  miles  above  tliis,  a  bluft*  present- 
ing a  perpendicular  semicircle,  regularly  stellated.  In  ditTer- 
ent  places  there  were  red  iiills  of  the  color  of  weil-burntj 


i 


DANGEROUS  OALE. 


267 


Itandamyg.  I 
re  scattered  | 

natural  ap.  | 
in  presented  i 
:y  arounu  is  i 
!  atmosphere 
at  this  time 
ying,  that  the  \, 
ither  circum. 
the  Cascades, 
>ve,  and  pro. 
pon  the  north 
ent  and  man- 
y  told  us  that 

canoes  down 
of  which  they 
jliver  them  to 
le  Indians  are 
re  engaged  in 

nove.     It  was 

ame  down  like . 

tains  through 

able  to  make 

o'clock^  when 


t,  thoiigh  cliil- 
river,  through 
ess  mountain- 
resting  forms: 
t\\,  rising  at  an 
covered  with 
blufi*  present. 
ated.  In  differ. 
of  well-burnt 


brick.  We  encamped  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  upon 
a  pleasant  spot  just  above  a  small  Indian  villap;e,  where  we 
found  a  good  supply  of  dry  wood,  which  added  to  both  com- 
fort and  convenience. 

A  wind  which  blew  very  fresh  through  the  night  abated  on 
the  morning  of  the  ifth  and  we  proceeded  on  our  way  with 
a  gentle  breeze,  before  which  v/e  spread  a  sail  made  of  a 
blanket.     The  wind  continued  to  increase  until  the  middle 
of  the  day,  which  rei;  dered  our  navigation  rather  danger- 
ous.    We  came  to  a  large  bend  in  the  river,  and  to  save  the 
distance  of  coasting  around  the  bend,  the  men  who  rowed 
the  canoe,  wished  to  pass  over  to  the  south  side  of  the  river, 
which  was  here  more  than  a  mile  wide.     This  seemed  a 
dangerous  experiment,  because  the  wind  and  waves  were  too 
high  for  our  deep-laden  canoe ;  but  as  they  were  anxious  to 
save  labor,  I  did  not  persist  in  my  objections.     We  had  not 
gotten  more  than  half  way  across,  before  the  increasing 
wind  raised  waves  which  rolled  and  broke  three  times  as 
high  es  our  canoe,  and  threatened  to  overwhelm  us.     At 
length  the  men  were  not  able  to  keep   the   canoe  headed 
across  the  waves,  and  it  turned  sideways  to  them.     It  seem- 
ed that  nothing  short  of  a  miraculous  providence  could  save 
us.    After  some  time,  by  exertion  and  by  some  abatemt  nt  of 
the  wind,  we  got  our  canoe  upon  our  course,  and  across  the 
waves,  and  safely  arrived  at  the  south  shore.    But  our  great- 
est danger  was  not  over.     After  coasting  a  few  miles  along 
the  south  shore,  we  came  to  a  promontory  called  Cape  Horn, 
a  Dame  given  it  on  account  of  the  dangers  of  passing  it. 
It  is  of  basaltic  formation,  rising  two  hundred  feet,  as  I  af- 
terwards found  by  measurement,  perpendicular  upon   the 
water's  edge,  extending  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  the  lower 
end  projecting  several   hundred  feet  into  the  river.     The 
wind  had  so  far  lulled,  that  wc  did  not  npprclicnd  any  dan- 
pfcr  in  passing  it.     When  we  had  passed  the  Horn,  tho  wind 
drew  around  and  increased  to  a  gale.     The  foaming,  break- 


r«i'  ■>    La  •' 


.   .<,,' 


m^ 


268 


EXTRAORDINARY  ESCAPE. 


'  I. 


*m 


l"c\ 


m 


•.•■» 


\,i.i 


J 


J  '*^ 


I 


'/fra 


.«! 


ing  waves  ran  high,  and  we  could  not  return  against  the 
wind,  and  to  go  forward  was  to  add  to  the  danger  of  beinw 
filled,  or  dashed  against  shoreless  rocks.  Such  was  the 
force  of  the  wind,  and  such  the  effort  of  the  men  to  keen 
the  canoe  across  the  waves  and  away  from  the  rocks,  that, 
in  the  same  instant  of  time,  the  bowman  and  the  steers. 
man  both  broke  their  paddles,  and  the  sail  broke  away  from 
the  left  fastenings,  and  whirled  over  to  the  right.  It  seem. 
ed  that  all  hope  was  gone.  There  were  only  three  paddles 
left,  two  of  which  were  immediately  put  into  the  hands  of  the 
steersman  and  bowman.  It  was  impossible  to  return,  and 
to  make  progress  against  the  current,  with  only  the  remain- 
ing means,  up|)eared  equally  impracticable.  A  watery  grave 
seemed  inevitable ;  but  so  it  was  in  the  protecting  mercy  of 
God,  that  when  the  waves  broke,  it  was  just  without  the  ca. 
noe.  It  was  necessary  in  order  to  our  safety  to  be  coiiec 
ted  and  fearless,  and  we  cleared  the  sail,  and  gave  orders  as 
though  no  danger  was  near.  Contrary  to  even  our  highest 
expectations,  we  continued  tj  make  headway  against  the 
current,  assisted  probably  by  one  of  those  large  eddys,  whicli 
abound  in  this  river,  until  we  came  to  a  bay  with  a  sandv 
shore,  where  we  put  our  frail  barque  in  safely,  and  waited 
until  the  winds  and  weather  Iwcame  more  favorable. 

Indians  caiiic  to  us,  of  whom  we  bought  prjdles;  and 
being  again  cquij)pc(l  for  our  voyage,  we  proceeded  up 
the  river  to  the  La  Dalles,  and  as  far  as  we  could  safely  go. 
and  encamped  near  ii  very  large  eddy,  where  two  years  l)0. 
fore  nine  men  \\\m-c  drowned  by  l)ein^  drawn  into  it,  and  tho 
bateau  capsi/od.  Only  one  escaped,  wiiich  he  effected  hy 
layin<];  liol<l  of  a  bag  containing  some  ein|)ty  kegs.  He  was 
carried  Koine  few  miles  down  the  river,  and  taken  up  by  In. 
(iiaiis  who  were  passing  on  the  river  in  a  canoe.  A  nuinl)er 
of  Indians  cauje  to  us  witii  horses,  wlioui  we  engaged  to 
take  us  and  our  baggage  to  tlie  navigai)le  water  above  tliu 
Fails. 


CALL  AT  AN  INDIAN  LODGE. 


269 


The  20th,  was  occupied  in  passing  the  La  Dalles  and  the 
Falls,  above  which  we  encamped.  The  Indians  in  great 
numbers  are  making  their  preparation  for  fishing.  This 
place  affords  a  favorable  location  for  missionaries.  The 
Indians  resort  here  in  large  numbers  for  fishing  and  remain 
usually  through  the  summer,  and  some  of  them  through  the 
year.  An  intercourse  would  be  always  open  with  surround- 
ing tribes,  and  facilities  would  always  be  at  hand  both  to  dis- 
seminate the  truths  of  the  gospel,  and  to  obtain  the  means  of 
comfortable  subsistence. 

As  soon  as  we  were  encamped,  the  Indians  came  around 
us  and  their  first  enquiry  was  for  pi  pi  (tobacco.)  I  am 
much  disgusted  with  this  noxious  plant,  and  am  resolved  to 
diiimiss  it  as  a  necessary  article  to  conciliate  the  Indians 
by  smoking  the  friendly  pipe.  If  an  Indian  is  suffering 
witli  hunger  and  nakedness,  his  first  request  is  tobacco.  As 
we  had  parted  with  the  Indians  who  came  with  us  from 
Fort  Vancouver,  we  here  engaged  two  others  to  assist  uh 
as  far  as  to  Walla  Walla. 

On  the  21st,  we  took  a  bateau  which  was  left  here,  and 
made  slow  progress  up  the  river  against  the  current  and 
frequent  rapids.  Our  progress  was  much  the  same  on  the 
2'2d.  This  morning  wliile  encamped  for  breakfast,  and  the 
men  were  making  preparation,  I  went  into  a  little  village 
near  by,  and  called  at  a  lodge  where  I  found  an  elderly  and 
youngerly  woman,  and  four  little  girls.  I  spake  to  tbcm  in 
the  Chcnook  language,  but  they  did  not  understand  it.  I 
then  asked  them  by  the  language  of  signs,  whose  were  those 
children.  The  youngest  woman  told  me  three  were  hers, 
but  the  eldest  was  an  orphan,  whom  she  had  taken 
to  provide  for  as  her  own.  She  then  proceeded  to  toll 
mc  a  lamentable  story  of  her  orphan  condition.  Th  i  grand- 
mother would  every  now  and  then  put  in  a  f^w  sentences, 
while  she  supported  her  chin  upon  her  hand.     So  tender 

were  the  accents,  and  so  moving  the  sound  of  their  voices, 
23* 


>■?■' 


^^^^^HUH^^^ift 

■■S^^f 

^■^^^HBQ&r^i  t 

i'''    ■i'i-p 

% 

"'^'^t^H 

'^' 

||^^^j;g; 

^^^■HSsiiffi^^^^ i^  > 

KjSHPp'i'ij 

MfclHEj|MC|B5aWj?y*^t ' 

^^^p: 

Ij^^^^K-!;' . ' ; 

IMB| 

*H^^^^i'  i  ■  '^• 

1  i|nnKi|%n^>'.'« 

|^|^|:  *:  ■  •' 

K^;":; 

^.iwrl^fe^ ' ' 

•(WTf^'V' 

j.«'W'''-^i[t,  ■ 

^^Rl^r 

'•P^^S'^'f'  ■ 

270 


FAMISHED  INDIANS. 


that  1  felt  affected  with  the  narration,  although  I  could  not 
understand  a  word  of  their  language.  As  they  proceeded 
I  could  only  nod  assent.  Their  tenderness  appeared  to  in- 
crease  by  having  a  stranger's  sympathy,  and  it  was  with  re 
luctance,  that  I  had  to  leave  them  without  being  able  to 
point  them  to  Him,  who  is  touched  with  the  feelings  of  our 
infirmities,  and  who  binds  up  the  broken  heart,  and  who 
saves  from  sin.  I  said  within  myself,  as  I  moved  slowly 
away  to  our  encampment,  surely  these  heathen  are  not  sav. 
ages. 

Our  encampment,  on  the  24th,  was  on  the  south  side  ol 
the  river,  at  a  place  of  much  resort  for  Indians,  but  who 
had  not  come  in  from  their  winter  retreat.  There  were 
here  many  canoes  drawn  up  a  short  distance  from  the  shore. 
and  left  without  any  apprehensions  of  their  being  stolen. 
showing  the  confidence  the  Indians  have  in  each  others 
honesty.  They  do  not  need  guards,  nor  bolts  and  bars,  and 
state  prisons. 

To  secure  ourselves  from  a  strong,  cold  wind,  we  selected 
a  place  covered  densely  with  wild  broom  corn  of  last  years 
growth  yet  standing,  and  in  the  rear  of  willows  which  here 
skirted  the  shore  of  the  river.  Two  Indians  came  to  our 
encampment,  who  were  as  distressed  objects  as  I  have  seen. 
They  were  not  more  than  half  covered  with  tattered  skins 
of  rabits  patched  together  ;  and  they  were  emaciated  with 
starvation.  To  relieve  the  sufferings  of  such  objects  ol 
pity,  the  traveler  needs  to  carry  with  him  a  store  of  cloth- 
ing and  provisions.  It  is  distressing  to  see  them,  without 
having  the  means  of  furnishing  them  substantial  sup- 
plies. 

On  the  25th,  we  made  slow  progress  against  the  strong 
current  with  our  poorly  manned  bateau,  and  failing  of  ar- 
riving  at  Walla  Walla  as  we  had  hoped,  we  encamped  under 
the  high  basaltic  rocks,  where  we  found  a  small  spot  of  soil 
furnishing  some  wood.     The  next  morning  arrived  at  the 


FULFILMENT  OF  PROMISE. 


271 


fort,  where  I  met  at  the  landing,  a  number  of  Nez  Perce 
Indians  waiting  my  arrival.  I  felt  much  satisfaction  in 
seeing  them,  and  in  witnessing  their  tokens  of  affection.  It 
was  like  meeting  old  friends  ;  and  there  appeared  to  he  so 
much  unfeigned  sincerity  in  the  reception  they  gave  me, 
that  it  inspired  the  hope,  that  the  disposition  they  express 
to  learn  the  way  of  salvatio  is  based  on  a  fouh-^ation  more 
[)ermanent  than  novelty.  I  had  told  a  band  of  the  Cayuse 
Indiana  last  October,  on  my  way  down  the  river,  I  would 
meet  them  here  in  the  spring,  and  talk  to  them  about  God, 
and  the  way  to  worship  him.  Many  of  them  were  hero 
ready  to  attend  to  the  fulfilment  of  my  promise,  and  un- 
doubtedly my  arrival,  at  the  appointed  time  confirmed  their 
confidence.     Mr.  Pambrun  maiifestcd  his  usual  friendship. 

As  the  season  is  yet  early,  I  judged  it  expedient  to  con- 
tinue here  two  weeks,  and  improve  such  opi)ortunities  as 
miglit  offer  for  instructing  the  Indians  residing  near  this 
place,  and  such  as  might  come  here  from  more  remote  pla- 
ces ;  making  the  best  use  of  such  facilities  as  can  be  ob- 
tained, without  waiting  for  a  thorough  knowledge  of  their 
language,  as  the  slow  prudence  of  some  persons  would  con- 
sider  indispensible  to  the  commencement  of  teaching  them 
tlir  way  of  eternal  life.  Their  anxious  curiosity  to  know 
what  the  religion  of  the  Bible  is,  cannot  be  kept  awake  while 
its  gratification  is  postponed,  '^'he  danger  that  delay  v»'ill 
result  in  indifierencc  or  disgusi  is  as  great,  as  that  an  ear- 
iy  attempt  to  impart  instruction  may  bo  connected  with  im- 
perfections. 

During  my  continuance  in  this  place,  I  i  .cached,  on  the 
sabbath,  to  the  white  people  belonging  to  the  fort  in  the 
morning,  and  in  the  afternoon  to  the  Indians  of  the  Cay- 
use,  Walla  Walla,  and  Nez  Perce  tribes  ;  ai>d  also  improved 
other  opportunities  with  the  Indians  besides  on  the  sabbath. 
They  always  gave  good  attention,  and  some  api)ear  to  be 
much  interested.     An  instance  of  opposition  to  i!ie  truths 


■■| 


'  I 


272 


A  WALK — GRAND  SCENERY. 


'i    ''^& 


1  "■  A  '■^   ' 


.'•■>;■  i  »<•• ;  • 


■  •'.'  >  ^-  • 


>  *■  ■■»■  ■■  i -,■  ■ 


•V) 

■■*♦. 


•''  t' . 


of  the  gospel,  however,  occured  here,  proving  the  truth  of 
the  scriptures,  that  the  Savior  is  set  for  the  fall  and  rising  of 
those  who  hear.  A  chief  of  the  Cayuses,  who  several  times 
came  to  hear,  disliked  what  was  said  about  a  plurality  of 
wives.  He  said  he  would  not  part  with  any  of  his ;  for  he 
had  always  lived  in  sin,  and  was  going  to  the  place  of  burn. 
ing,  and  it  was  too  late  for  him,  now  he  was  getting  old,  to 
repent  and  be  saved  ;  and  as  he  must  go  to  that  place,  he 
would  go  in  all  his  sins,  and  would  not  alter  his  life.  Those. 
who  are  familiar  with  liic  various  methods  to  which  sinners 
resort,  to  avoid  the  convictions  of  truth  and  conscience, 
may  see  in  his  deep-rooted  hatred  to  holiness,  that  the  oper. 
ation  of  isin  is  the  same  in  every  unsanctified  heart.  Thii 
is  the  onlv  instance  of  open  opposition,  I  witnessed  uumv^ 
thv'  Ju<liians ;  nor  does  it  characterize  the  Cayusu  trihc. 
Tiiiey  '  ory  i^nich  resemble  the  Nez  Pcrccs  in  their  pciiccahle 
di^voi^i^ori,  .'«nd  desire  to  be  instructed  in  divine  truth,  «ind 
the^  present  in  connection  with  the  Wa'isi.  Wallas  a  prom. 
ising  field  of  missionary  labor. 

May  3d.  I  walked  down  to  the  passage  of  the  Colum. 
bia  through  the  basaltic  mountain,  two  miles  below  the  fort, 
to  take  a  more  partic-lar  view  of  the  scenery,  than  cun  be 
taken  in  a  hasty  passage  on  the  river.  I  ascended  tlie  moun- 
tain, from  the  top  of  which  I  liad  a  fine  prospect  of  the 
country  around,  opening  m  every  direction  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach.  All  parts  v,cre  covered  witli  tijc  fresh  green  of 
spring  vegetation.  Very  few  forests  were  to  be  seen  in  any 
direction,  exceptii'^;  upon  the  Blue  mountains  at  the  south : 
but  their  disianiV  presented  mor'^  of  V.u'.  hazy  blue,  than  the 
distinctiveness  of  forests.  Even  at  tliis  disiancc,  the  per- 
petual  snows  of  Mount  Hood  at  tlic  west  could  be  distinguish- 
ed,  and  at  the  north-west.  Mount  Rainier  near  Pugets  Sound; 
and  at  the  north  and  the  east  various  parts  of  scattered 
mountain.  After  some  time  employed  in  looking  around 
upon  tlie  vast  expanse,  I  approached  the  perpendicular  walk 


NUTRITIOUS  GRASS. 


273 


between  which  the  Columbia  decends,  which  are  about  three 
hundred  feet  high,  as  I  ascertained  by  the  number  of  seconds 
in  the  descent  of  large  stones,  which  I  threw  from  the  brink  of 
the  precipice  ;  the  sounds  of  which  I  distinctly  heard  when 
they  struck  upon  the  shore  below.  I  found  a  great  variety  of 
scoria  and  lava,  the  latter  varying  much  in  color  and  dens- 
ity ;  some  sufficiently  porous  and  light  to  swim  upon  water. 
Two-thirds  of  the  way  down  this  deep  channel,  are  two 
high  eminences  called  the  Pillars,  to  which  I  descended. 
They  stand  upon  conical  bases  of  eighty  or  a  hundred  feet 
high  above  the  river ;  and  above  these  bases  rise  nearly  a 
hundred  feet  perpendicular.  They  are  a  curiosity  ;  but 
there  are  so  many  singular  formations  in  this  volcanic  coun- 
try, that  curiosities  became  common.  1  returned,  though 
much  fatigued  with  my  long  walk  over  prairie,  and  preci- 
pices, and  mountains,  yet  much  gratified  with  the  examina- 
tion of  the  works  of  nature. 

My  horses  and  mule,  which  I  had  left  with  the  Ncz  Perce 
Indians  and  were  kept  in  their  country,  one  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  east'of  this  place,  were  in  April  brought  into 
this  neighbourhood.  To-day,  May  r)th,  they  were  caught 
and  brought  to  the  fort.  I  was  suri)riscd  to  find  them  in 
fine  order,  with  their  coats  shed,  and  in  high  spirits.  They 
had  run  out  on  the  prairies  without  any  shelter  from 
the  storms,  and  nothing  more  to  eat  than  what  tlie  remains  of 
the  previous  summer's  growth  ufTortled.  VVho  would  liave 
supposed,  considering  tlieir  worn  down  condition,  when  I 
left  tliem  in  October,  and  with  no  other  fare,  tliey  would 
liave  fattened  during  the  winter.  This  fact  shows  the  su- 
jtorior  mildness  of  the  olimato,  and  nutritixe  (luality  of  the 
prairie  grass,  even  after  being  dried  up  with  the  sninmcr 
drouth.  Anoiicr  evidence  of  th(;  truth  of  this  remark 
may  Ix;  seen  in  the  condition  of  the  cattl(»  kept  at  this  tort. 
With  nolhini!  Piore  to  1ml  upon  than  what  they  finil  upon  the 
itraiiics,  thev  now  are  not  only  in  ffood  order,  Imt  some  of 


^:i\' 


I 


374 


HIGH  WIND. 


1>«. 


'.,«    ft  ',  1,;' 


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1 


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■ '  4  .;■  ■ 


them  are  actually  fat,  and  in  as  good  condition  for  market, 
as  oxen  driven  from  the  stalls  of  New  England. 

Rode  with  Mr.  P.  ten  miles  up  the  river  to  the  confluence 
of  the  Lewis,  or  as  it  is  called  the  Nez  Perce  river,  with  the 
Columbia.  They  are  both  noble  rivers;  the  Columbia, 
near  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  and  the  Nez  perc6  a  half  mile 
wide.  The  prospect  around  is  very  pleasing ;  the  soil  i» 
good,  as  evidenced  by  the  fresh  verdure,  which  is  springing 
up,  luxuriantly,  at  this  early  season.  A  large  band  of  hor. 
ses  belonging  to  a  Walla  Walla  chief,  are  feeding  at  this 
place.  It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  the  Indian  horses  do  not 
often  stray  from  the  place  where  they  are  left ;  habit,  how. 
ever  produced,  is  as  good  a  safe  guard  as  inclosures.  Along 
upon  the  shores  of  the  river,  I  found  calcedony  and  cor. 
nelian. 

The  sixth  was  a  very  warm  day,  the  thermometer  stand. 
ing  at  noon  at  84°.  Distant  thunder  was  heard,  which  is 
an  unfrequent  occurrence  west  of  the  great  mountains.  To. 
wards  and  through  the  night  the  wind  blew  very  strongly, 
and  so  shook  the  bastion  which  I  occupied,  that  it  seemed 
that  it  would  be  prostrated  to  the  earth  ;  but  such  wind  in 
this  particular  section  of  country  is  common. 

During  the  time  of  my  cdntinuancc  here,  I  had  more  fre- 
quent opportunities  to  address  the  Indians,  and  in  greater  | 
numbers,  than  I  had  anticipated.  From  the  promise  that  { 
the  word  of  God  shall  not  return  void,  but  shall  accomplish  I 
that  where  unto  it  is  sent,  may  not  the  hope  be  indulged,  that 
some  good  fruits  will  be  the  result  of  these  labors.  The 
Walla  Walla  tribe,  though  the  descendants  of  emancipated 
slaves,  are  not  inferior  to  others,  and  are  treated  with  thej 
same  respect. 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  NEZ  PERCE  COUNTRY. 


275 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


Journey  to  the  Nez  Perce  country — funeral  of  a  child— natural  Bcei>ery~ 
worship  on  the  sabbath— return  to  Walla  Walla— industry  of  the  Indi- 
ans—battle ground — practice  of  smoking— journey  to  Colville. 


In  company  with  several  Nez  Perce  Indians  who  had 
come  down  from  their  own  country  to  escort  me,  I  com- 
menced my  journey  on  the  ninth,  and  pursued  the  same 
route  hy  which  I  came  last  autumn.  Nothing  eventful 
marked  our  journey,  and  we  arrived  at  the  Snake  or  Lewis 
river  the  evening  of  the  eleventh,  where  we  found  several 
lodges  of  the  Nez  Perces,  who  gave  us  a  very  cordial  re- 
ception, and  a  warm-hearted  shake  of  the  hand,  the  common 
expression  of  Indian  friendship.  The  night  of  our  arrival 
a  little  girl,  of  about  six  or  seven  years  of  age,  died.  The 
morning  of  the  twelfth  they  buried  her.  Every  thing  re- 
lating to  the  ceremony  was  conducted  with  great  propriety. 
The  grave  was  dug  only  about  two  feet  deep.  They  have 
no  spades,  and  a  sharpened  stick  was  used  to  loosen  the 
earth,  and  this  was  removed  with  the  hands ;  and  with  their 
hands  they  fill  up  the  grave  after  the  body  is  deposited  in  it. 
A  mat  is  laid  in  the  grave,  then  the  body  wrapped  in  its  blan- 
ket with  the  child's  drinking  cup  and  spoon,  made  of  horn ; 
then  a  mat  of  rushes  ivS  spread  over  the  whole,  and  filled  up, 
as  al)ove  described.  In  this  instance,  they  had  prepared  a 
cross  to  set  up  at  the  grave,  most  probably  having  been  told 
to  do  so  by  some  Iroquois  Indians,  a  few  of  whom,  not  in 
the  capacity  of  teachers,  but  as  trappers  in  the  employ  of 
the  fur  companies,  I  saw  west  of  the  mountains.  One 
grave  in  the  same  village  had  a  cross  standing  over  it,  which 


276 


NATURAL  SCENERY. 


1^'*'?^?/ 


E.i.i-"'fc.j  J 


was  the  only  relic  of  the  kind  I  saw,  together  with  this  just 
named,  during  my  travels  in  the  country.  But  as  I  view. 
ed  a  cross  of  wood  made  my  men's  hands  of  no  avail,  to 
benefit  either  the  dead  or  the  living,  and  far  more  likely 
to  operate  as  a  salvo  to  a  guilty  conscience,  or  a  stepping. 
stone  to  idolatry,  than  to  be  understood  in  its  spiritual  sense 
to  refer  to  a  crucifixion  of  our  sins,  I  took  this,  which  the 
Indians  had  prepared,  and  broke  it  to  pieces.  I  then  tol<l 
them  we  place  a  stone  at  the  head  and  foot  of  the  grave,  o»n 
ly  to  mark  the  place  ;  and  without  a  murmer,  they  cheerful. 
ly  acquiesced,  and  adopted  our  custom. 

As  we  proceeded  up  the  river  to  the  confluence  of  the 
Cooscootske,  on  account  of  the  high  water  in  the  river, 
we  had  to  pass  over  the  huge  precipices  of  basalt,  at  the  foot 
of  which  we  traveled  down  last  fall,  and  which  I  have  men- 
tioned.  We  were  compelled  often  to  approach  very  near 
the  brink,  where  it  seemed  as  if  we  were  almost  suspended 
over  the  dizzy  depth  of  three  hundred  feet.  We  arrived  at 
the  Cooscootske  early  in  the  aflernoon  of  the  third  day  af- 
ter leaving  Walla  Walla,  making  the  distance  about  120 
miles.  The  whole  country  around  had  put  on  the  loveli. 
ness  of  spring,  and  divested  itself  of  the  dreariness  of  win- 
ter,  and  the  grandeur  of  the  mountain  scenery  appeared 
to  rise  before  mn  with  new  freshness  and  delight.  The 
Indians  are  assembling  in  great  numbers  from  different  and 
distant  parts  of  the  country  to  enquire  about  the  religion 
that  is  to  guide  them  to  God  and  heaven ;  and  which  they 
also  ihink,  has  power  to  elevate  them  in  the  scale  of  socie- 
ty in  this  world,  and  place  them  on  a  level  with  intelligent 
as  well  as  christian  white  men. 

On  the  north  of  the  confluence  of  these  two  rivers,  and 
down  the  Nez  Perce,  the  country  is  diversified  with  hills  and 
mountains  of  a  great  variety  of  forms,  from  five  hundred  to  { 
two  thousand  feet  high.  The  volcanic  and  argillaceous  stra- 
ta  are  generally  horizontal,  but  in  some  places  thrown  into  I 


THE  OPTHALMY. 


277 


\1 


various  degrees  of  inclination,  from  horizontal  to  perpen- 
dicular ;  in  other  places  curved  or  waving.  They  have  all 
the  regularity  of  works  of  art,  raised  up  by  human  skill  { 
why  should  not  then  the  power  and  skill  of  an  Omnipotent 
hand  be  acknowledged  in  these  stupendous  works  ? 

After  having  l)een  several  months  where  the  Indians  of 
the  lower  country  came  daily  under  my  observation,  the 
contrast  between  them  and  these  with  whom  I  now  am,  is 
very  noticeable.  The  former  are  more  servile  and  abject, 
both  in  their  manners  and  spirit ;  while  the  latter  are  truly 
dignified  and  respectable  in  their  manners  and  general  np> 
pcarance,  far  less  enslaved  to  their  appetites,  or  to  those  vi- 
ces whose  inevitable  tendency  is  to  degrade.  They  know 
enough  to  set  some  estimate  upon  character,  and  have  much 
of  the  proud  independence  of  freemen  ;  and  are  desiroi 
possessing  a  consequence  in  the  estimation  of  other  peopie, 
aod  for  this  reason,  no  doubt,  wish  to  be  taught,  and  they 
receive  any  instruction  for  their  benefit  with  remarkable 
docility. 

Saturday,  May  14th.  Very  many  of  the  natives  ar^ 
coining  in  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  sabbath  with  me ; 
but  as  I  have  only  a  small  prospect  of  the  arrival  of  my  in- 
terpreter, I  shall  be  left,  probably,  to  commiserate  their  anx- 
iety, while  it  will  be  out  of  my  power  to  do  them  good. 

I  have  frequent  applications  to  prescribe  for  the  opthaI« 
my,  with  which  the  people  are  much  afflicted,  not  only  at 
this  present  time,  but  whicii  I  should  think  is  a  prevalent 
endemic.  Calomel,  applied  in  about  the  quantity  of  one 
grain  to  eacli  eye,  once  in  twenty,  four  hours,  I  found  to  be 
an  efficacious  remedy.  No  injurious  effects  were  known  to 
have  occurred  from  its  use,  and  in  most  cases  it  was  suc- 
cessful. 

The  Nez  Ferces  have  been  celebrated  for  their  skill  and 

hravery   in  war.     This  they  have  mentioned  to  me,  but 

they  say  they  now  are  afraid  to  go  to  war  ;  for  they  do  not 
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278 


WORSHIP  ON  THE  SABBATH. 


^^■■'h'M 


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sri 


now  believe  that  all  who  fall  in  battle  go  to  a  happy  coun. 
try.     They  now  believe  there  is  no  other  way  to  be  happy 
here  or  hereafter,  but  by  knowing  and  doing  what  God  re- 
quires.    They  have  learned  enough  to  fear  the  consequences 
of  dying  unforgiven,  but  not  sufficient  to  embrace  the  hope 
and  consolations  of  the  gospel.     I  have  been  interested  to 
see  the  reasonings  of  their  minds,  and  the  results  of  their 
reflections,  amidst  the  dimness  of  so  imperfect  a  knowledge 
as  they  yet  possess.     It  demonstrates  that  they  are  not  in. 
different  to  what  they  hear,  and  that  their  minds  are  inquis. 
itive,  and    capable  of  thought  and  investigation.     Tliey 
have  obtained  light  sufficient,  at  least,  to  show  how  great  is 
the  darkness  in  which  they  have  been  enveloped ;  and  it  is 
to  be  hoped,  that  these  efforts  will  be  followed  by  efforts  still 
more  efficient,  until  that  meridian  day  foretold  in  prophc. 
cy,  flhall  fully  come,  and  these  heathen  be  given  with  all 
the  remote  ends  of  the  earth  to  the  Savior  for  a  possession. 
Sabbath,  16th.     The  interpreter  I  had  been  expecting  did 
not  arrive,  and  consequently  much  of  what  I  wished  to  say 
to  these  hundreds  of  Indians,  could  not  be  communicated 
for  the  want  of  a  medium.  I  felt  distressed  for  them.  They 
desired  to  celebrate  the  sabbath  after  a  christian  manner. 
When  the  chiefs  came  and  enquired  what  they  should  do,  I 
told  them  to  collect  the  people  into  an  assembly  and  spend 
the  hours  of  this  sacred  day  in  prayer  and  singing,  and  in 
conversation  on  those  things  about  which  I  formerly  in. 
structed  them.     They  did  so  ;  and  it  was  truly  affecting  to 
see  their  apparent  reverence,  order,  and  devotion,  while  1 
could  not  but  know  that  their  knowledge  was  limited  indeed. 
The  voice  of  their  singing  echoed  from  the  hills  and  vales,  I 
and  I  could  not  but  hope,  that  the  time  will  not  be  greatly  | 
future,  when  they  will  sing  with  the  spirit  and  with  the  un- 
dcrstanding.     As  a  proof  that  they  have  acquired  sonic  cor- 
rect ideas  of  spiritual  worship,  in  distinction  from  the  em- 
ploymcnt  of  mere  outward  forms,  Kentuc,  my  Indian  wjiol 


•istian  manner. 


RETURN  TO  WALLA  WALLA. 


279 


attended  me  so  faithfully  on  my  outward  route,  came  to  me, 
anxious  to  describe  the  different  manner,  in  which  he  re- 
garded the  worship  of  the  two  chiefs,  Charle  and  Tuetacus. 
He  said  Charle  prayed  with  his  lips,  but  Tuetacus  prayed 
with  his  heart.  Confession  of  sin  appears  to  occupy  much 
of  his  prayers,  and  if  there  is  one  among  this  multitude, 
who  it  may  be  hoped,  has  been  everlastingly  benefited  by 
the  gospel,  I  should  believe  it  is  this  man. 

Monday,  16th.  I  had  hitherto  been  somewhat  undecided 
what  course  to  pursue  in  my  future  movements ;  but  came 
to  the  conclusion  to  proceed  to  the  place  of  Rendezvous, 
and  join  the  returning  caravan,  provided  I  could  go  by  the 
way  of  the  Grand  Round,  and  to  the  south-west  of  the 
Snake  river,  and  explore  a  part  of  the  country  which  I  had 
not  passed  through  the  preceding  autumn.  But  the  Indians 
chose  to  take  the  retired  route  of  the  Salmon  river  moun- 
tains, to  avoid  danger  from  hostile  Indians,  as  it  was  well 
ascertained,  that  there  was  a  party  of  Blackfcet  warriors 
ranging  the  territory  west  of  the  great  mountains.  I  wish- 
ed to  explore  the  north>east  branch  of  the  Columbia,  which 
runs  through  an  important  part  of  the  country,  and  upon 
which,  and  its  branches,  many  considerable  tribes  reside. 
To  return  by  the  way  my  company  would  travel,  and  by 
which  I  came,  would  be  to  leave  the  object  of  my  tour  only 
partially  accomplished  ;  and  after  giving  the  subject  as  de- 
hberate  a  canvassing  as  I  was  capable,  I  concluded  to  return 
to  Walla  Walla,  procure  guides  and  assistants,  and  go  up  the 
Columbia  as  far  as  CoIviUe,  which  is  the  highest  post  of  the 
Hudson  Pay  Company,  and  about  seven  hundred  miles,  by 
the  traveled  route,  from  the  Pacific  ocean.  I  informed  the 
Indians  of  my  determination,  who,  though  they  evidently 
preferred  that  I  should  accompany  them,  yet  acquiesced  in 
the  decision  and  showed  more  kindness  than  I  expected. 
They  readily  appointed  Haminilpilt,  one  of  tiieir  young 
chiefs,  to  attend  me  on  my  return  down  the  river.     After 


'■■■■  ■;'.'•':!'.?;  ■•  '   . 

;'ji.:r,:  .■ 


..i  r  i' 


,..'« 


i:! 


;-h;- 


.  ••'.',» 


^'u-X':- 


■ '■>".*i 

'•;■■.:,■•#      •    (■ 
•  HIT  "».  ., 


:.   t 


.H 


280 


INDIAN  INDUSTRY. 


,^m 


mm 


WB' 


writing  several  letters,  to  forward  to  the  United  States  from 

Rendezvous,  we  turned  our  faces  to  our  proposed  destina- 

tion,  and  at  night  arrived  at  the  village  on  the  Nez  Perce 

river,  where  we  had  encamped  on  the  eleventh. 

At  this  place  I  was  peculiarly  gratified  to  notice  the  in. 

dustry  of  these  people.     Some  were  engaged  in  catching 

fish,  of  which  they  gave  me  some  excellent  salmon ;  the 
women  and  children  were  early  out  on  horseback  to  pro. 

cure  the  cowish  root,  which  they  often  manufacture  into 
bread  ;  and  when  we  left,  only  a  few  old  persons  and  very 
young  children  remained  in  their  village.  Five  or  six  miles 
from  this  village,  up  a  small  branch  of  this  river,  we  passed 
a  spot,  which  some  few  years  ago,  was  a  battle-field  be. 
tween  the  Nez  Perces  and  some  other  nation,  whose  name 
I  could  not  with  certainty  ascertain,  but  probably  it  was  the 
*t\ielca.  The  ground  was  judiciously  chosen  by  the  inva. 
ding  party,  which  was  just  back  of  a  point  of  land  coming 
down  near  the  stream  of  water,  leaving  only  a  narrow  pass, 
around  which  they  opened  a  fire,  while  the  Nez  Perces,  not 
expecting  the  approach  of  a  foe,  were  taken  by  surprise, 
and  fifteen  or  twenty  of  their  number  were  killed.  The 
very  spot  where  each  individual  fell,  is  now  designated  by  a 
pile  of  stones  raised  three  and  four  feet  high. 

The  country  over  which  we  passed  to-day,  the  distance 
of  forty  miles,  was  uncommonly  pleasant,  diversified  with 
hills  and  valleys  and  covered  with  its  self-provided  carpet 
of  lovely  green.  Several  Indians  came  on  after  us  and 
traveled  in  company.  Near  night  we  encamped  in  a  rich 
valley,  through  which  a  considerable  stream  of  water  runs 
to  the  north.  Before  it  was  dark  a  number  more,  whom  I 
recognized  as  former  acquaintances,  overtook  us,  apparent- 
ly reluctant  to  separate  from  our  company.  I  conversed 
with  them  about  the  practice  so  universal  among  the  men» 
of  using  tobacco  for  smoking,  a  very  expensive  indulgence, 
for  which  they  pay  almost  as  much  as  for  their  whole  list 


^•ii^  •!,?:. 


m 


BICH  SOIL. 


281 


of  comforts  besides.  In  reply  to  my  arguments  to  dissuade 
them  from  its  use,  they  said,  "  white  men  smoke."  I  ad- 
mitted the  truth,  but  told  them  that  all  white  men  are  not 
wise  in  every  thing  they  do ;  that  they  have  practices 
among  some  clases  which  are  not  good.  They  call  tobac- 
co, smoke.  They  remarked,  "  we  are  better  then  than  white 
men  ;  for  they  eat  smoke," — meaning  tobacco—"  we  do  not 
eat  smoke."  This  to  be  sure  was  a  mark  of  much  shrewd- 
ness, and  wholly  unanswerable.  Such  is  their  attachment 
to  this  stupifying  vegetable,  that  they  will  part  with  the  last 
article  of  food  or  clothing,  or  even  with  their  own  hands 
take  down  the  poles  which  uphold  their  dwellings,  and  sell 
them  for  fuel  to  obtain  it.  In  this  view  I  regard  it  as  a  vice, 
from  which  they  should  be  rescued  if  practicable. 

The  18th  we  continued  our  journey,  and  rode  forty-five 
miles  over  a  more  fertile  tract  than  we  passed  yesterday,  and 
better  supplied  with  wood.  On  the  upper  part  of  the  Wal- 
la Walla  river  is  a  delightful  situation  for  a  missionary  es- 
tablishment,  having  many  advantages  not  found  for  some 
distance  around.  It  is,  however,  not  so  central  for  either 
the  Nez  Percys,  Cayuses,  or  Walla  Wallas,  as  could  be  de 
sired.  Yet  a  mission  located  on  this  fertile  field  would  draw 
around  an  interesting  settlement,  who  would  fix  down  to  cul- 
tivate the  soil,  and  to  be  instructed.  How  easily  might  the 
plough  go  through  these  vallies,  and  what  rich  and  abund^ 
ant  harvests  might  be  gathered  by  the  hand  of  industry.  But 
even  now  the  spontaneous  growth  of  these  vast  plains,  in- 
cluding millions  of  acres,  yield  in  such  profusion,  that  not 
the  fiftieth  part  becomes  the  food  of  organic  life.  In  some 
places  bands  of  Indians'  horses  are  seen ;  the  timid  deer 
or  hare  ;  the  wary  marmot,  and  the  swift  gazelle. 
But  these  with  all  the  other  animals  and  insects  consume  so 
small  a  proportion,  that  it  can  hardly  be  seen  that  there  are 
any  occupants  of  these  wide  fields. 

We  experienced  a  long  detention  on  tlie  morning  of  the 
24* 


■I  .-■  I'.T  w:^ . :»  til. 

!■ ,  ;.,  .  iinr   . 

;:,j-'v'^*;;-:..  .. 
',  .■.•■■'  ■■■i; 

.1  '  ^,   :  {i.T 
...f    J". 

!.*';.J^':,"vr  •■»- 
;■'',  .'r  «•■  .  .. 

,4  ^iW:;,  ft  >:!'.:. 
•-■•  4L;:'H'''' 


:;#: 


■•v^'' 


H 


282 


JOURNEY  TO  COLVItK* 


-su 


1 


19th,  in  consequence  of  our  horses  wandering  into  a  ravine/ 
to  which  retreat  wc  could  not  easily  trace  them.  They  did 
not,  however,  violate  their  rule,  of  making  our  encampment 
for  the  time  being,  their  home.  We  rode  twenty-two  miles 
and  arrived  at  Walla  Walla.  Much  of  the  remainder  of  the 
week  was  occupied  in  necessary  arrangements  for  my  north, 
east  tour,  and  in  writing  letters  to  friends.  Mr.  P.  assist- 
ed in  obtaining  Indian  guides,  and  designated  two  French 
voyageurs  to  be  my  assistants ;  one  of  whom  could  speak- 
some  English.  I  concluded  to  take  horses,  and  to  go  up 
through  the  Spokein  country,  leaving  the  great  bend  of  the 
Columbia  to  the  left  some  fifty  or  sixty  miles,  and  when  we 
should  return  to  take  the  river.  This  would  give  a  more  ex. 
tended  observation  of  the  country,  of  the  tribes  who  inhabit 
it,  and  of  their  condition  in  regard  to  prospects  of  estab- 
Ushing  teachers  among  them. 

On  sabbath  22d,  we  had  worship  as  usual,  and  the  fo). 
lowing  day  commenced  the  journey  for  Colvile.  Our 
course  was  in  an  easterly  direction  forty  miles,  and  at  night 
we  found  a  new  place  to  lay  our  heads  for  rest,  in  a  valley, 
presenting  all  the  appearance  of  the  farmer's  grass  fields, 
which  are  to  be  put  under  the  mower's  hand,  and  from  which 
he  expects  to  receive  a  future  gain.  But  the  natives  not  ap- 
preciating these  sources  of  profit,  neglect  them  altogether, 
and  gather  only  a  scanty  living  from  a  few  esculent  roots/ 
which  grow  spontaneously  in  the  waste. 


m 


PALOOSE  INDIANS. 


283 


i  CHAPTER  XXII. 


Paloose  Indians— Pavilion  river— extraordinary  excavation— lost  on  th« 
prairie— Indian  principle— Spokein  woods  and  country— Indian  ferry — 
Spokein  valley— Granite — volcanic  curiosities— fertile  valley— worship 
with  the  Spokeins— Mill  river  valley— arrival  at  Fort  Colvile— descrip- 
tion of  the  place— leave  Colvile  for  Fort  Okanagan— a  mountain  of 
Marble— Grand  Coule,  or  old  bed  of  the  Columbia— Okanagan  descri- 
bed— Long  rapids— arrive  at  Walla  Walla. 


The  morning  of  the  24th,  we  took  a  more  northerly 
course,  and  after  traveling  five  hours  over  a  somewhat  high 
but  diversified  country,  we  descended  into  a  fertile  vale, 
through  which  flowed  a  small  tributary  of  the  Snake  river. 
Here  we  found  a  village  of  Paloose  Indians  who  are  a  band 
of  the  Nez  Perce's.  We  hired  them  to  assist  us  in  crossing 
the  river  which  here  is  a  half  mile  wide,  and  has  a  rapid 
current.  We  had  only  a  small  canoe,  which  the  strength  of 
the  current  carried  more  than  a  half  mile  down  the  river  be- 
fore we  could  gain  the  opposite  shore.  Three  times  we  had 
to  encounter  the  stream,  before  every  thing  was  safely  over ; 
and  the  horses  made  a  strong  effort  to  swim  to  the  shore. 
This,  together  with  refitting,  employed  several  hours.  We 
traveled  up  the  Pavilion  river  which  comes  from  the  high 
lands  which  divide  the  waters  of  this  and  the  Spokein  river. 
The  distance  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  this  river  is  walled 
up  with  basalt,  generally  high  and  perpendicular,  in  various 
windings  and  forms.  In  some  places  the  walls  are  spread 
out  so  widely  as  to  enclose  large  spaces  of  rich  interval ;  in 
other  places  so  closing  upon  the  river  as  only  to  leave  suffi* 
cient  space  for  the  river  to  pass.  The  night  was  cold,  the 
thermometer  standing  on  the  morning  of  the  25th,  at  34°. 


'• '  iiii .' .'  I  '• 

...;!•:-,.,•.:*■•...:, 
"'■■  •f.''-  A  .'•    •  •• 

,11,.  I**.".-!-'"'*.'' 
!  ;  „.  i  ,ar  I",   ,    • 

'",;«•  ;!•■£:;    •. 
..•k:f■"i*?'i'■'•^t'l 

!:*v"  ;=  r  ii""'f;-'.. 

■  ;.,j>M,'.'  !,«•■.<: 

■'-■  ■>^'l:i;;'f.^ .  i^:' 
■««;■'*■!; I, ^  t4  ■''■ 
:«•  ■  'J  1  -i*  f\  -f ft. 


\¥\ 


'"'  \  '1- 


^i-f:V':' 


284 


EXTRAORDINART  EXCAVATIOPT. 


IS, 

IJf,,; 


1--     f^0 


■iiy' 


We  pursued  our  way  over  hills  and  valleys  of  an  entire 
prairie,  until  we  came  to  the  south  part  of  the  Spokein 
country.  Near  the  summit  level,  which  divides  the  waters 
of  the  Snake  and  Spokein  rivers,  there  is  an  interesting  ex. 
cavation,  walled  within  by  basaltic  rocks.  The  pillars  are 
regular  pentagons  from  two  to  four  feet  in  diameter,  in  sec- 
tions of  various  lengths,  standing  erect  and  closely  joined, 
making  a  wall  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  feet  high.  The  exca. 
vated  enclosure  though  not  in  a  regular  form,  yet  is  nearly 
entire,  containing  fifty  acres,  or  more.  On  the  outside  of 
this  wall,  the  earth  is  as  high  as  the  pillars,  and  gradually 
slopes  off*  in  hills  and  dales.  By  what  agency  this  excava. 
tion  was  formed,  no  rational  theory,  perhaps,  can  be  given ; 
for  there  is  no  appearance,  as  in  many  other  places,  of  vol. 
canic  craters,  and  no  signs  of  the  action  of  water.  That 
these  walls  of  basalt  were  forced  up  in  dykes  is  rational,  but 
this  leaves  still  unexplained  the  mystery  of  the  excavation. 
May  it  not  have  been  a  subsidence  ?  I  passed  through  it 
leisurely,  and  surveyed  with  admiration  these  huge  crystals, 
of  dark  materials  truly,  but  showing  not  the  less  for  that 
circumstance,  that  certain  laws  govern  the  mineral  world, 
as  well  as  the  animal  or  vegetable.  We  passed  to.day  sev- 
eral  small  villages  of  the  Nez  Perce  and  Spokein  nations. 
They  all  manifested  a  perfectly  friendly  disposition,  but 
they  appeared  to  be  poor,  evidently  in  want  of  a  comfortable 
subsistence.  We  stopped  for  the  night,  after  a  ride  of  fifty 
miles,  near  one  of  these  villages  of  Spokeins.  Their  Ian. 
guage  differs  almost  entirely  from  any  tribe  or  nation  I  have 
yet  seen.  One  of  my  Indian  guides  was  sufficiently  ac- 
quainted  with  their  language,  to  inform  them  of  the  object 
of  my  tour  through  their  country,  with  which  they  were  not 
only  satisfied,  but  manifested  an  interest  in  it. 

We  took  an  early  departure  on  the  morning  of  the  26th, 
but  had  traveled  only  a  few  hours  before  my  Indian  guides 
lost  the  track  and  the  course  they  should  pursue.    Becoming 


^^'l'.^:. 


LOST  ON  THE  PRAIRIE. 


285 


confident  they  were  not  right,  I  alighted  and  set  my  pocket 
compass,  and  discovered  that  instead  of  a  north-east  direc 
tion,  they  were  going  west.     Enquiring  of  them  if  they 
knew  where  to  find  our  course  again,  a  young  chief  putting 
his  hand  to  his  head,  and  with  gestures  expressing  the  con- 
fusion  of  his  mind,  answered  waiitu  en  soko,  "  I   do  not 
know."     Our  situation  was  rather  embarrassing.     We 
had  very  injudiciously  left  our  rifles  behind,  and  at  about 
equal  distance  from  Walla  Walla  and  Colvile,  on  a  widely 
extended  prairie,  with  provisions  adequate  to  our  wants  on* 
ly  for  two  days,  and  no  probable  means  of  obtaining  more 
until  we  should  arrive  at  the  fort ;  to  be  lost  under  these  cir- 
cumstances was  no  pleasant  affair.     The  point  of  a  high 
mountain  we  had  passed  was  in  view,  and  we  might  retrace 
our  path,  and  therefore  I  was  determined  not  to  lose  sight 
of  this  land-mark,  until  we  should  find  the  trail  leading  to 
the  Spokein  river.    While  my  guides  went  oflT  in  search  of 
it,  I  could  hardly  fail  to  find,  even  in  our  circumstances* 
some  amusement  in  the  apathy  of  my  two  Frenchmen. 
They  are  so  confiding  in  Indian  skill  to  find  their  way 
through  any  country,  as  by  intuition,  that  they  will  sing  or 
go  to  sleep  with  the  same  heedless  indiflference  when  lost  in 
a  wide  wilderness,  as  when  launched  upon  the  waters  of  a 
well  known  river,  or  performing  the  duties  of  the  fort.  They 
appear  wholly  unconsious  of  danger  on  the  approach  of 
hunger  and  starvation,  until  long  after  the  last  morsel  is  con- 
sumed, and  never  borrow  from  futurity  to  add  to  the  evils 
that  afilict  them  to-day.    On  this  occasion  these  men  spent 
the  time  of  our  detention  in  calm  repose.     Afler  some  time 
our  guides  returned  and  told  me  they  had  found  some  Spo- 
kein Indians  abbut  a  mile  distant,  who  were  traveling  to. 
wards  the  south,  but  then  were  stopped  to  refresh  their  hor- 
ses.   We  proceeded  to  the  place,   and  I  engaged  one  of 
them  to  assist  us  in  finding  the  way  to  the  main  trail,  or  to 
the  Spokein  river.     He  was  a  tall,  intelligent-looking  man- 


■''■  ';■«.  '.Int.  —     ' 

■': \.  f^  ...   ,  ^ 

■I!  '*"  If?.  K.  •  • 


:''    -■-  U.-  .  ,.'•■      , 


■  :;.  if:  ■  '. 

■r     ,*      I     1 


u. 


■■|! 


.":.'v;.:'^'''-:. 


286 


THE  SFOKEIN  WOODS. 


i'^'l 


He  mounted  his  horse,  and  set  off  with  such  speed,  that,  ja- 
ded  as  our  horses  were,  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  keep 
up  with  him.  After  going  at  this  rate  more  than  an  hour 
he  stopped,  and  pointed  us  to  a  lake,  and  said  we  should 
find  the  great  trail  on  the  east  side.  Lest  we  should  again 
lose  our  way,  I  was  anxious  to  have  him  conduct  us  to  their 
village  on  the  river,  but  could  not  prevail  upon  him  to  go 
any  farther,  although  I  offered  him  a  large  compensation. 
His  only  and  unvarying  answer  was,  that  he  had  done  foi 
us  all  that  was  needed,  and  why  should  he  perform  any  ur,- 
necessary  labor  for  us  and  take  pay.  It  appeared  to  be  a 
principle  with  him,  that  it  would  be  wrong  for  him  to  take 
pay  for  what  we  did  not  need.  I  was  astonished  at  the  hon. 
esty  of  this  heathen,  and  his  steadfast  adherence  to  it,  \^hen 
I  remembered  how  many  there  are  in  civilized  lands,  who, 
to  be  well  paid,  would  lengthen  a  service  to  an  unnecessary 
extent,  and  who  would  artfully  deceive  you  to  make  you  be. 
lieve  it  very  important.  For  his  faithfulness  and  Jiaiesty  I 
not  only  paid  him  on  the  spot  to  his  satisfaction,  bu<.  after, 
ward  sent  him  a  present  of  powder  and  balls,  articles  high- 
ly  valued. 

Without  any  farther  difficulty,  we  arrived  at  th3  Spokein 
river,  at  four  o'clock  P.  M.  A  few  miles  after  we  left  the 
lake,  we  entered  the  Spokein  woods  which  are  very  exten- 
sive,  consisting  of  yellow,  pitch,  and  elastic  pino,  some  hem. 
loc,  spruce,  and  fir;  together  with  various  shrubbery. 
These  are  the  woods  in  which  Ross  Cox  was  lost,  about  the 
circumstances  of  which,  he  gives  a  very  interesting  descrip. 
tion,  but  which,  so  far  as  I  have  had  as  yet  an  opportunity 
to  judge,  contains  far  more  fiction  than  truth.  But  his  mul- 
titude  of  growling  bears,  and  howling  wolves,  and  alarming  | 
rattle  snakes,  of  which  I  have  seen  only  one,  may  yet  come 
out  from  their  lurking  places  in  hostile  array. 

When  we  came  to  the  river,  which  is  about  thirty  rods  I 
wide,  we  hallooed  a  long  time  for  the  Indian  who  keeps  a  I 


i^'- 


SFOKEIN  VALLEY. 


287 


canoe  ferry,  but  without  success.  At  length  two  women 
came  to  the  river,  and  with  uncominonly  pleasant  voices, 
together  with  the  language  of  signs,  the  latter  of  which 
only  I  could  understand,  informed  us  that  the  ferryman  was 
gone  upon  a  short  hunt,  would  return  in  the  evening,  and 
the  next  morning  at  sun  two  hours  high,  he  would  come 
and  take  us  over.  I  never  heard  voices  more  expressive  of 
kindness.  I  requested  them  to  paddle  the  canoe  over  to  us, 
and  my  men  would  perform  the  labor  of  ferrying  over  our 
baggage.  They  declined  on  account  of  the  rapidity  and 
strength  of  the  current,  the  river  being  in  full  freshet. 
Therefore  we  had  to  encamp  and  wait  for  the  morning. 

This  is  a  very  pleasant,  open  valley,  though  not  exten- 
sively wide.  The  North-west  Company  had  a  trading  post 
here,  one  bastion  of  which  is  still  standing.  These  woods 
present  a  fine  range  for  the  ornithologist.  The  magpie  is 
seen  in  great  numbers,  flying  from  tree  to  tree,  vociferating 
their  chattering  notes.  Also  thrushes,  warblers,  and  wrens, 
are  numerous,  cheering  those  otherwise  solitary  wilds  with 
their  delightful  songs,  grateful  to  the  weary  traveler.  Their 
carols  appear  to  be  designed  to  animate  each  other  in  their 
intervals  of  labor,  while  constructing  their  fabric  admirably 
adapted  for  the  habitation  of  their  tender  offspring ;  on  an 
examination  of  which,  the  most  infidel  philosopher  must  be 
astonished,  and  be  constrained  to  acknowledge,  that  God 
has  manifested  himself  in  supplying,  instead  of  reason,  a 
mysterious,  unerring  instinct,  always  sufficient  for  the  end 
to  be  accomplished. 

On  the  27th,  about  the  time  in  the  morning  mentioned  by 
the  two  women,  the  Indian  ferryman  came,  and  crossed  the 
river  in  his  canoe.  His  appearence,  together  with  that  of 
his  canoe,  reminded  me  of  Eneas'  ferryman,  who  carried 
him  over  the  Stygian  lake. 

Canites  inculta  jacet ; 
Sordidus  ex  humeris  nodo  depcndet  amictus, 
Coeruleam  advertit  cymbam,  ripajque  propinquat. 


■i!  ?  :■  Vr.  h.  , 

!ir':-:;.f-|'"-l 


SI  I 


wx 


'It  •■      •   ,• 

■■■••'♦  .;iii:r'i  • 

"     • !   .  *  f      ' 

(■■>■.,,.?;, 

;l;^":iC;.;. 

11'  'J."  .II'- '  ■ 

I'A  ■■■;; 
;'«']?  !• ' 

J-^H''!' 


m- 


,1 ,  f 


I'      :  1  all  '      'S-  * 

'•','*  iHr  I' r  :■  ' 

,  ■  -■■..•  ;'',■  .'    ■     'I 


288 


VOLCANIC  CURIOSITIES. 


^i; 


■■r^..'« 


ill 


111 

PJj-^  •••;■■ 


i 


i; 


After  the  river,  we  crossed  the  valley  of  level  alluvial 
soil,  where  it  is  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  wide,  and  the 
east  side  especially  is  very  fertile.  Here  the  village  of  the 
Spokeins  is  located,  and  one  of  their  number  has  commenc> 
ed  the  cultivation  of  a  small  field  or  garden,  which  he  has 
planted  with  potatoes,  peas,  and  beans,  and  some  other  ve- 
getables ;  all  of  which  were  flourishing,  and  were  the  first 
I  had  seen  springing  up  under  Indian  industry  west  of  the 
mountains.  Our  ferryman  conducted  us  through  the  valley 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on  the  east,  and  pointed  out  the 
trail  we  should  pursue.  As  we  wound  our  way  up  the  moun- 
tain,  I  looked  down  into  the  vale  we  had  crossed,  and  which 
stretches  along  the  winding  river,  and  I  drew  in  my  imagin. 
ation  a  picture  of  what  this  valley  will  be,  when  this  people 
are  brought  under  the  influence  of  Christianity  and  civili. 
zation.  This  section  of  country  presents  less  appearance 
of  volcanic  operation  ;  and  in  several  places  I  found  gran* 
ite  in  its  natural  form  and  position,  and  which  resembles 
that  found  in  the  eastern  states.  When  we  had  arrived  at 
the  height  of  this  mountain,  we  came  to  a  sandy  plain,  sev* 
eral  miles  wide,  covered  with  yellow  pine  forming  an  open 
woods.  Over  parts  of  this  plain  were  scattered  volcanic 
eruptions  of  singular  formation.  Hundreds  of  regular 
cones  of  various  magnitudes,  from  those  of  only  a  few  feet 
in  diameter  and  height,  to  those  of  a  hundred  in  diameter 
and  sixty  feet  high.  They  all  had  the  same  appearance, 
only  differing  in  magnitude  ;  and  were  composed  of  broken 
granite,  in  angular  pieces,  from  those  that  were  very  small, 
to  six  or  eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  on  the  outside 
were  nearly  black,  as  if  colored  with  rising  smoke.  They 
had  more  the  appearence  of  being  broken  by  manual  labor, 
and  piled  up  for  future  use  in  constructing  roads  or  wharves, 
than  of  the  result  of  internal  fires,  and  yet  no  other  cause 
but  the  latter  can  be  assigned.  The  sandy  plain  around 
them  was  undisturbed,  and  large  pine  trees  growing  about 


ANXIETY  OP  THE  SPOKEINS. 


289 


them  as  in  otlier  places.  At  the  south  of  these  were  large 
rocks  of  granite,  and  in  one  place  a  basaltic  dyke  extend- 
ing a  hundred  rods  or  more. 

After  passing  this  plain,  we  descended  and  came  again  to 
the  Spokein  river,  which  makes  a  bend  around  to  the  north- 
cast.  In  this  place  the  valley  is  less  extensive,  and  the 
mountains  more  precipitous.  We  again  ascended  the  moiin. 
tain,  upon  which  granite  and  mica  slate  prevail,  without 
any  volcanic  appearances.  From  this  we  descended  into 
a  rich  valley,  which  was  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  grass,  though  but  just  springing  up.  This  valley  has 
the  appearance  of  having  been  a  lake  filled  up  with  moun- 
tain deposits.  In  the  centre  is  a  small  lake,  from  which 
proceeds  a  small  rivulet  passing  out  at  the  south-west ; 
and  leaving  this  place,  we  wound  around  a  mountain 
in  a  northerly  direction,  down  a  valley  less  fertile  but  more 
extensive,  and  at  four  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to  a  stream 
of  water,  coming  from  the  mountains  at  the  east,  where  our 
guides  said  we  must  stop  for  the  night. 

Near  evening,  many  Spokein  and  some  Nez  Perce  Indi- 
ans came  riding  into  the  place  of  our  encampment,  and 
turned  out  their  horses  with  ours  in  the  half  wood  and  prai- 
rie. The  Spokeins  who  had  seen  me  on  my  way,  and  had 
learned  who  I  was,  sent  information  out  to  the  various 
hunting  parties,  that  a  minister  was  passing  through  their 
country,  and  as  it  was  the  first  time  any  one  was  ever 
among  them,  they  wished  to  see  him  and  hear  what  he  had 
to  say  to  them.  They  brought  with  them  a  good  interpre- 
ter, a  young  man  of  their  nation,  who  had  been  to  school  at 
the  Red  river  settlement  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountain, 
and  who  had  a  very  good  knowledge  of  English.  We  had 
public  worship  that  evening  in  the  Spokein  and  Nez  Perce 
languages.  One  of  the  Nez  Perces,  a  chief,  understood  the 
Spokein  language,  and  collected  his  people  a  little  back  of 

the  Spokeins,  and  translated  the  discourse  us  it  was  deliv- 
25 


'I  i..  ■! , 


!;,!: 


■  ■■''■■<  i 


u-^.-v 


290 


MILL  RIVER  VALLEY. 


pi   '^^   •■■|7  ■ 


ered,  into  the  language  of  his  people,  without  any  interrup 
tion  to  the  service.  This  was  a  plan  of  their  own  devising. 
All  the  circumstances  combined  were  to  me  very  interest, 
ing.  If  I  had  not  been  delayed  the  three  several  times, 
they  would  not  have  had  time  to  collect  their  people  and 
overtake  me.  Some  of  them  had  been  engaged  in  the 
business  of  assembling  and  following  a  day  and  a  half. 
Man}  of  them  were  unwilling  to  return,  and  expressed  their 
determination  to  go  with  me  to  Colville.  What  influenced 
these  benighted  Indians  to  manifest  so  much  solicitude  in 
my  instruction  derived  from  the  word  of  God  ?  It  must 
be  the  influences  of  the  Divine  Spirit.  And  shall  these 
influences  pass  unregarded  and  unimproved  ? 

The  morning  of  the  28th  was  cloudy  and  some  rain  fell, 
but  this  did  not  prevent  our  taking  an  early  departure  ;  for 
it  was  necessary  to  be  on  our  way,  as  my  men  had  the  even- 
ng  before  consumed  their  entire  stock  of  provisions,  and 
et  what  would  take  place,  we  could  obtain  no  more  until 
we  should  reach  Colville.  We  could  not  obtain  any  game ; 
for  being  advised  by  the  superintendent  of  Walla  Walk  not  to 
encumber  ourselves  with  rifles,  we  had  unwisely  left  them 
behind.  After  traveling  a  few  miles  in  an  easterly  direc* 
tion  we  came  to  a  very  fertile  valley  extending  north  and 
south  at  least  fifty  miles,  and  of  various  extent  in  width, 
from  a  half  mile  to  two.  It  is  well  adapted  to  cultivation. 
The  valley  is  an  open  prairie  well  supplied  with  grass,  and 
even  in  this  high  latitude  of  48°  cattle  could  do  well  through 
the  whole  year,  without  the  labor  of  cutting  hay.  The  hills 
on  each  side  are  covered  with  woods.  As  we  proceeded 
down  this  valley,  we  came  to  villages  of  Indians  who  un. 
derstood  the  Spokein  language,  but  belonged  to  another  tribe, 
probably  to  the  Cceur  d'AlSne.  Near  their  principal  viK 
lage  we  came  to  Mill  river,  which  was  in  full  fresh.  They 
had  no  canoes,  and  we  found  difficulty  in  getting  my  bag- 
gage acroM.    But  the  Nez  Perc6  chief  took  part  of  it  upoD 


FOBT  COLVILLE. 


291 


his  shoulders,  mounted  his  horse,  and  swam  over,  and  cross. 
ed  and  recrossed  until  all  was  upon  the  other  side.  I  then 
crossed  upon  a  pole,  which  was  not  the  most  desirable  meth- 
od, but  still  it  was  preferable  to  a  cold  bathing  on  horseback. 
After  pursuing  our  course  a  few  miles  farther,  I  divided  my 
remaining  stock  of  eatables  with  my  destitute  French  and 
Indian  attendants,  leaving  the  anticipation  of  our  next  meal 
to  the  time  when,  after  a  long  day's  industrious  travel,  we 
should  find  ourselves  safely  at  Colville. 

Towards  the  lower  part  of  the  valley,  through  which  we 
were  passing,  the  land  is  remarkably  fertile.  A  missiona- 
ry located  here  would  have  easy  access  to  the  Spokein, 
Sapwell,  Sintou-too-oulish,  Kettle  falls,  Lake?,  CoBur  d'Alene, 
and  Pondera  Indians.  I  know  not  of  so  important  a  field 
within  two  hundred  miles,  presenting  the  natural  advanta- 
ges of  mild  climate,  good  soil,  and  forests,  all  combined. 

We  arrived  at  Fort  Colville  late  in  the  afternoon  after  a 
weary  journey  of  sixty  miles.  The  situation  of  this  fort  is 
on  an  elevated  spot,  about  fifty  rods  from  the  river,  sur- 
rounded by  an  alluvial  plain  of  rich  soil,  and  opening  in 
every  direction  an  extended  prospect  of  mountain  scenery  ; 
and  a  half  mile  below  are  Kettle  falls,  above  which,  the  riv- 
er spreads  out  widely,  and  moves  slowly,  until  just  above 
the  precipice,  it  contracts  into  a  narrow  channel,  and  dis- 
appears  from  the  view  of  the  spectator,  who  beholds  it  at 
the  fort,  winding  its  way  among  rocks  below.  This  estab- 
lishment is  built  for  defence  and  is  well  stoccaded,  but  so 
friendly  have  the  natives  always  been,  that  no  wars  have 
ever  occurred  among  them.  It  is  occupied  by  some  half 
dozen  men  with  Indian  fimilies,  and  is  well  supplied  with 
the  useful  animals  and  fowls  common  to  farming  establish- 
ments. The  winter  and  summer  grains,  together  with  gar- 
den vegetables,  are  cultivated  with  success  and  in  profusion. 
This  place  does  not  suffer  with  summer  drouth,  as  many 
other  parts  of  this  country  do,  and  rains  are  of  frequent-. 


U  '  !.  '*'•  t'si  ■ 

.■'iki.j  *i  !..f  ■•■ 


!«' 


0'- 


I 


.1 

Ml. 

M'  ■ 


292 


WORSHIP  AT  THE  FORT. 


5? 


occurrence  ;  the  seasons  here  not  being  marked,  as  on  the 
lower  parts  of  the  Columbia,  by  wet  and  dry. 

I  was  much  disappointed  in  not  finding  Mr.  McDonald, 
the  superintendent  of  the  fort,  at  home.  He  had  left  a  few 
days  before  with  a  brigade  for  Fort  Vancouver ;  but  the 
kindest  attention  was  paid  me  by  those  who  had  the  charge 
of  the  fort.  I  found  here  an  old  man,  who,  thirty  years  be- 
fore,  accompanied  Lewis  and  Clarke  across  the  continent, 
and  had  for  several  years  past  taken  up  his  residence 
here.  He  is  in  the  employ  of  the  fur  company,  and  acts 
as  interpreter  to  the  neighboring  Indians. 

On  sabbath  29th,  the  people  of  the  fort  who  understood 
English,  assembled,  and  we  worshipped  the  God  of  our  lives, 
who  had  protected  us  hitherto,  and  from  different  nations 
had  collected  us  in  a  little  group  in  this  end  of  the  work). 
The  Indians  too  came  about  me  and  expressed  great  anxie- 
ty  to  be  taught  the  revealed  will  of  God.  They  endeavor- 
ed to  make  me  understand  what  their  former  traditionary 
belief  and  practices  had  been,  and  to  let  me  know,  that 
what  they  had  learned  from  me  was  reasonable  and  satis- 
factory to  them,  and  that  they  wished  to  know  all  that  re- 
lated  to  so  important  and  momentous  a  subject.  But  our 
medium  of  communication  was  inadequate  to  a  full  disclo- 
sure  of  that  most  interesting  truth,  that  God  so  loved  the 
world,  that  he  gave  his  only  Son  to  die  for  its  redemption. 

Wherever  I  have  met  with  the  natives  of  this  distant  re- 
gion  they  have  invariably,  with  earnestness  and  with  im. 
portunity,  asked  the  gift  of  the  gospel  from  the  hands  of 
christians.  But  how  little  of  the  faith,  and  love,  and  liber- 
ality  of  the  church  is  invested  in  the  most  profitable  of  all 
enterprises,  the  conversion  of  the  world.  Should  some  one 
propose  the  construction  of  a  rail  road  from  the  Atlantic 
to  the  Pacific,  and  demonstrate  the  practicability  of  the 
measure,  and  show  that  nature  has  interposed  no  effectual 


...  ■  .L  V^ 


1,  as  on  the 


lo  understood 
i  of  our  lives, 
;rent  nations 
)f  the  workl. 
I  great  anxie- 
ley  endeavor- 
traditionary 
le  know,  that 
3le  and  satis- 
V  all  that  re- 
ct.     But  our 
a  full  disclc 
so  loved  the 
redemption, 
lis  distant  re- 
and  with  im- 
the  hands  of 
ve,  and  liber- 
fitablc  of  all 
uld  some  one 
the  Atlantic 
bility  of  the 
ll  no  effectual 


JOUBNEY  DOWN  THB  COLOMBIA. 


293 


barrier,  and  that  it  would  concentrate  not  only  the  whole 
internal,  but  also  the  China  trade,  and  the  stock  would  pro- 
duce annually  a  rich  dividend,  how  soon  woijld  christians 
engage  in  it. 

Monday,  the  30th  of  May,  we  commenced  our  journey 
down  the  Columbia.  The  brigade  having  taken  all  the  boats 
from  this  place  on  their  late  passage  to  Fort  Vancouver,  we 
were  compelled  to  take  horses  for  Okanagan.  I  changed 
my  guides  for  two  others ;  one  a  Spokein,  and  the  other  a 
Paloose ;  retaining  my  two  voyageurs.  As  we  left  Fort 
Colville  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Kettle  falls.  The  Columbia 
was  in  its  freshet,  and  as  it  rolled  down  in  a  broken  catract 
the  distance  of  one  hundred  feet,  it  was  a  sublime  spectacle. 
The  whole  scenery  as  we  proceeded  down  the  river  was 
marked  by  variety,  wildness,  and  romantic  grandeur,  as  if 
the  hand  of  nature,  in  decking  these  remote  regions,  had 
consulted  for  her  own  amusement  some  of  her  most  playful 
and  tasteful  fancies.  The  mountains  around  are  construct- 
ed on  a  scale  of  magnificence,  presenting  almost  all  the  vari- 
eties of  elevation,  precipice,  and  forest.  This  is  the  country 
which  by  more  than  one  of  my  predecessors  in  travel,  has 
been  celebrated  as  the  abode  of  wolves,  bears,  and  rattle- 
snakes, to  an  extent  that  renders  it  almost  impenetrable, 
by  ordinary  courage ;  but  we  found  no  indications  of  the 
presence  of  these  animals  before  this  evening,  when  the 
I  distant  barking  of  prairie  wolves,  for  once,  interrupted  the 
I  universal  silence  by  which  we  were  surrounded. 

After  a  few  hours  ride,  on  the  morning  of  the  81st, 'we 
recrossed  the  Spokein  river  just  above  its  entrance  into  the 
Columbia.  This  large  valley  is  capable  of  supporting  a 
much  more  numerous,  population  than  now  obtain  a  subsist- 
ence by  hunting  and  fishing.  The  Indians  residing  here 
afforded  us  very  cheerfully  all  the  assistance  we  needed  in 
ferrying  the  river.     In  the  neighborhood  of  this  place  I 

discovered  a  mountain  of  rich  and  very  beautiful  marble, 
24* 


■if '^t' sVn-'l  ■■ ' 
■if'  .     ■ 

'  {:■■,  ■■•:  *■  ■  '  " 


m^:^' 


"It,  '  •!  >'.■  : 


294 


GRAND  COULE.      ri- 


if 


■"    -Hi 

^ 

■  ''■-'■m 

ify' 

P 

'■'w-...-^.^ 

rH',: 

— - 

-,-4.-V:  sag:^i 

'■/yy, 

V  ^•;'^.-BffiJ 

^A 

^^B^^-'< 

T- 

^Sm^a^^ 

t^^l 

f 

^^K^B^SaSt}L    f'  "* 

••p;v 

I 

^^cvUfiKK'^^^'^'i^^  ' 

4; 

^M^P|^:'y^^l'f>  f 

' 

KUHD^.V  '^  ■5-  i  r " 

[ 

BMPIJJ^; 

^^||;v 

M|^^pC'^^r-. 

|^k|;; 

^S^^l>-' 

If 

I^Bi^... 

if 

^^Ki'V 

t. 

■B^^,^-.' :>'' 

■  1/,,, 

^^^?^if 

H^K^^^^' 

L  Infl 

Ik" 

."'•Pi 

ll: 

«>H.-feii 

situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  Columbia  river ;  some  sec. 
tions  are  pure  white,  or  saccharine,  while  others  are  beau- 
tifully clouded  with  blue  and  brown.  It  effervesced  freely 
with  sulphuric  acid.  This  will  in  time  become  very 
valuable  ;  for  being  upon  navigable  waters,  it  can  be  trans, 
ported  into  various  countries.  Several  miles  below  this 
marble  location  I  was  interested  with  the  juxtaposition  of 
granite  and  basalt.  It  was  on  an  elevated  piece  of  land  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  river.  Near  the  river  there 
were  large  quantities  of  solid  granite  in  its  natural  position, 
not  having  the  appearance  of  its  ever  having  undergone  an 
igneous  influence,  and  near  by  to  the  left  was  a  stupend. 
ous  dyke  of  basalt  rising  two  hundred  feet,  presenting  the 
appearance  of  having  been  thrown  up  by  several  succes- 
sive volcanic  eruptions ;  the  earth  on  the  back  side  gradu- 
ally rising  to  a  mountain. 

At  this  place  we  left  the  river,  to  save  traversing  a  great 
bend,  and  took  a  westerly  course,  expecting  to  arrive  ac  it 
again  before  night.  We  pursued  our  way  over  an  elevated 
prairie,  destitute  of  wood  and  water.  It  was  evident  night 
would  overtake  us  before  we  could  reach  the  river,  unless 
we  should  urge  forward  with  all  the  speed  that  humanity 
for  our  horses  would  permit.  Before  five  o'clock  we  came 
near  to  the  great  gulf  walled  up  with  basalt,  which  as  we 
supposed,  embosomed  the  deep-flowing  Columbia.  Our  next 
object  was  to  find  a  place  where  we  could  descend  to  its 
shores.  After  ranging  along  two  or  three  miles,  we  found 
an  entrance  by  a  ravine  ;  but  to  our  disappointment  it  was 
the  Grand  Coule,  which  was  undoubtedly  the  former  chan. 
nel  of  the  river.  With  considerable  difficulty  we  descend, 
ed  into  it,  and  found  it  well  covered  with  grass,  and  by 
searching,  obtained  a  small  supply  of  water.  This  quon. 
dam  channel  of  the  river  is  nearly  a  mile  wide,  with  a  lev. 
el  bottom,  and  studded  with  islands.  Its  sides  are  lined,  as 
the  river  itself  is  in   many   places,   with  basaltic  rocks 


v.,  ,  > 


tOST  ON  THE  PRAIRIE. 


295 


of  two  and  three  hundred  feet  perpendicular.  This  Coule 
separates  to  the  leii  from  the  present  channel  of  the  Colum- 
bia, about  one  hundred  miles  below  Colville,  and  is  about  one 
hundred  in  length,  when  it  again  unites  with  the  river. 
The  basaltic  appearances  are  exhibited  here  as  i  \  other  pla- 
ces, furnishing  evidences  of  eruptions  at  different  periods  of 
time.  A  peculiarity  in  this  instance  was  a  stratum  of  yel- 
low earth,  eight  or  ten  feet  in  thickness  between  the  strata 
of  basalt.  Those  who  have  traveled  through  the  whole 
length  of  the  Coule  represent  it  as  having  the  same  gener- 
al features  throughout,  while  the  whole  distance  of  the  riv- 
er, around  to  the  place  where  it  again  unites,  as  I  know 
from  personal  observation,  has  not  the  peculiarity  of  a  deep 
channel,  cut  through  the  rocks.  We  left  the  Grand  Coule 
early  on  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  June,  and  with  dif- 
ficulty ascended  the  western  bank.  Before  noon  my  guides 
lost  their  way  to  Okanagan,  and  wandered  far  out  upon  the 
wide  prairie  where  there  was  no  water.  Losing  my  confi- 
dence in  their  knowledge  of  the  country,  except  on  some 
frequented  track,  I  directed  my  course  for  the  river  ;  and 
perceiving  a  snow-topped  mountain  in  the  distance,  I  con- 
cluded the  river  must  lie  between  it  and  ourselves,  and  ac 
cordingly  made  it  my  land-mark.  Pursuing  this  direction 
a  few  hours  with  rapid  speed  we  came  to  a  slope,  which 
gradually  narrowed  into  a  ravine,  and  introduced  us  at  length 
to  a  spring  of  water.  Our  thirsty  horses  rushed  into  it, 
and  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  control  their  excess  in 
drinking.  We  followed  this  ravine,  the  water  of  which 
continually  gained  accessions  until  it  became  a  large  stream, 
with  a  rich  valley  of  alluvial  bottom,  and  united  its  waters 
with  the  Columbia,  a  few  miles  above  Fort  Okanagan,  the 
place  of  our  destination. 

Fort  Okanagan  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, above  the  confluence  of  the  Okanagan  river,  from 
which,  and  from  the  Indians  residing  in  its  vicinity,   the 


■J-rii'i^'. '••-;' 


;¥ •»  ;•«  Ifi  Wv  , 


I 


>>^ 


r 

.J..  ■ 


296 


FORT  OKAHTAGAir. 


fort  takes  its  name.  It  was  first  built  by  Mr.  David  Stu- 
art, a  partner  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  in  1811. 
There  is  an  open  space  of  considerable  extent  around,  but 
the  soil  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  hard  and  gravelly,  but  pro. 
ducing  grass  to  supply  the  cattle  and  horses  belonging  to 
the  station.  A  few  fertile  spots  of  alluvial  soil  are  found 
in  the  vicinity.  The  Columbia  does  not  appear  to  have 
continued  so  long  in  its  present  channel,  after  leaving  the 
Grand  Coule,  as  to  form  those  extensive  alluvial  bottoms 
which  exist  in  many  other  parts  of  its  course.  After  leav. 
ing  the  Spokein  woods  there  is  very  little  forest  to  supply 
timber  for  fuel,  fencing,  or  building.  They  are  dependent 
on  floodwood  which  descends  the  river  for  their  ordinary  fu. 
el,  and  the  freshets  generally  furnish  a  large  supply.  Not 
far  distant,  at  the  north  there  are  snow-topped  mountains,  but 
the  country  here  is  not  remarkably  mountainous.  At  this 
place  I  had  an  opportunity  to  see  some  of  the  Okanagan 
tribe.  Their  personal  appearance  is  less  noble  than  the 
Spokeins,  but  they  are  not  less  peacable,  friendly,  and  hon- 
est in  their  dispositions.  This  is  evident  from  the  fact  that 
the  charge  of  the  fort  in  the  absence  of  Capt.  Ogden,  the  su. 
perintendent,  was  committed  temporarily  to  a  Frenchman, 
and  several  of  the  Indians.  This  tribe  with  the  Shooshaps 
number  about  two  thousand  persons.  They  are  much  em- 
ployed  in  the  salmon  fishery,  and  large  quantities  are  pre- 
pared  by  drying  for  their  winter's  use.  Their  country  does 
not  abound  in  game,  and  hunting  occupies  but  little  of  their 
time.  The  climate  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  Oregon 
Territory,  is  very  mild  and  salubrious. 

Wishing  to  pursue  my  way  down  the  river,  I  hired  two 
Indians  to  assist  my  two  Frenchmen  in  navigating  a  bateau 
which  we  obtained  at  this  place ;  and  committed  our  horses 
to  my  Indian  guides  to  take  them  across  the  country  to 
Walla  Walla.  My  confidence  in  the  honesty  of  these  men 
was  without  any  suspicion,  and  I  could  trust  them  with 


PETRIFIED  TREE. 


297 


our  six  horses,  saddles,  and  bridles,  to  go  on  any  enterprise 
within  their  capacity  to  accomplish.  They  have  so  much 
self-respect,  that  they  would  not  on  any  account  commit  a 
crime,  which  would  expel  them  from  their  people,  induce 
them  to  seek  concealment,  or  abridge  their  liberties  as  free- 
men. 

We  embarked  in  our  boat  June  2d,  to  perform  a  voyage 
of  four  hundred  miles,  with  the  river  in  full  freshet ;  and  its 
strong  current  increased  by  high  water,  secured  to  us  a  ve- 
locity  beyond  the  ordinary.  We  passed  several  rapids,  and 
(lashed  over  tho  breaking  surges,  where  tlie  least  misman- 
agement  would  have  been  inevitable  submersion,  without 
<iny  prospect  of  escape.  But  my  voyageurs  showed  by 
their  adroitness  at  the  oar,  that  they  were  upon  their  favor- 
ite element,  and  their  gayety  and  songs  began  to  revive,  on 
teing  relieved  from  the  rough,  and  to  them,  unpleasant  jour- 
ney on  horseback,  over  hills  and  down  ravines,  and  through 
forests.  The  elasticity  of  their  native  character  was  al- 
most immediately  apparent,  and  we  glided  on  with  celerity, 
making  a  voyage  of  one  hundred  miles  before  it  was  neces- 
sary to  seek  our  safety  for  the  night  on  shore.  The  coun- 
try  through  which  we  passed  to-day  was  rather  mountain- 
ous. I  saw  many  locations  of  granite  in  its  natural  state, 
but  as  we  proceeded,  volcanic  operations  began  to  appear, 
and  the  granite  exhibited  the  effects  of  intense  heat,  until 
it  wholly  disappeared,  and  breccia,  amygdaloid,  basalt,  and 
lava  took  its  place.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  a  section 
of  rock,  perpendicular  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet ;  half  way 
to  the  top  of  which,  a  petrified  tree  of  considerable  magni- 
tude is  suspended.  It  sppears  to  be  retained  in  its  place  by 
having  its  roots  inserted  in  the  crevices  of  the  rocks,  be- 
tween the  layers  of  different  eruptions.  How  it  procured 
its  elevated  situation  is  quite  a  mystery.  It  could  not  have 
vegetated  there,  unless  at  the  time  of  its  growth,  it  was  sup- 
ported by  a  surface  upon  which  to  rise ;  and  taking  the  pre. 


M.   •;)«■      L":.-!      • 

jj',..."V'  '■■'<.. 
>'-:';  .;:'i.ir::r 

"'■1  INI        n,  .,     J,,,L       1 

'■¥  '      .  ■  .'■' 


■U".i- 


lliif" 


1 

•iy:. 

'4 


);.«, 


I 


\ 


V 


I  ! 


298 


LONG  RAPIDS. 


PI 


^ 

U 


n 


sent  condition  of  the  rocks,  it  could  not  be  deposited  there 
by  any  floods  of  the  river,  and  certainly  it  could  not  in  such 
case,  intertwine  its  roots  in  the  crevices  of  the  rocks.  Gen- 
tlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  others  who  nav. 
igate  this  river,  have  amused  themselves  by  shooting  off 
pieces  with  their  rifles,  and  they  assured  me  it  was  whol. 
ly  a  petrifaction.  Our  encampment  this  evening  was  a  few 
miles  above  the  Long  Rapids,  which  extend  nine  miles. 

On  the  3d,  as  we  approached  the  Long  Rapids  about  fifty 
miles  above  Walla  Walla  they  presented  the  appearance  of 
waves  rolling  under  a  strong  breeze  of  wind,  and  their  dis. 
tant  murmur  broke  upon  the  stillness  of  the  morning.  To 
pass  them  without  fear,  is  an  undertaking  which  requires 
courage  and  self-possession  ;  but  knowing  that  these  inland 
navigators  are  experienced  in  all  the  dangers  of  boating  ex. 
cursions,  I  had  but  little  drawback  upon  the  pleasure  I  an. 
ticipated  in  a  swift  descent  over  them.  With  much  care 
and  exertion  of  my  men  we  safely  outrode  them,  a  distance 
of  nine  miles,  in  forty  minutes.  It  is  this  variety  of  falls, 
cascades,  and  rapids,  together  with  the  ever-varying  scene. 
ry  of  nature's  wildest  and  grandest  forms,  that  keeps  the 
mind  from  wearying,  and  awakens  almost  perpetually  some 
new  emotions  and  energies,  while  performing  a  voyage  of 
several  hundred  miles  in  open  bateaux  or  light  canoes.  Not 
unfrequently  in  the  stillness  and  solitude  of  the  river,  when 
it  assumed  its  more  placid  features,  such  a  sense  of  security 
is  enjoyed,  that  a  resort  to  books,  to  assist  in  a  profitable 
disposition  of  time,  is  pleasant.  .    ..   >   - 

The  distance  of  about  one  hundred  miles  we  passed  to- 
day, the  country  is  level  and  destitute  of  wood.  I  observ- 
ed  a  bank  of  clay  in  layers  of  diversified  structure,  resem- 
bling  the  basaltic  strata  which  I^have  often  noticed.  The 
dififerent  sections  were  of  various  colors ;  some  dusky  red, 
some  yellow,  and  blue,  and  others  white,  making  an  upright 
elevation  of  one  hundred  feet  or  more,    Salmon  are  ascend. 


sposited  there 
Id  not  in  such 
I  rocks.  Gen- 
ers  who  nav- 
shooting  off 


ARRIVAL  AT  WALLA  WALLA. 


299 


mg  the  river  in  j^reat  numbers,  and  groups  of  Indians  are 
scattered  along  pursuing  the  employment  of  catching  them. 
Wherever  we  passed  them,  they  came  off  in  their  canoes, 
bringing  salmon  to  sell,  some  of  which  were  roasted  in  the 
best  manner,  and  served  up  on  broad  pieces  of  bark,  which 
answered  a  good  purpose  in  the  absence  of  plates ;  and  of- 
ten large  leaves  of  plants  were  spread  neatly  upon  the  bark. 
My  voyageurs  found  sufficient  employment  in  the  gratifica- 
tion of  their  appetites,  to  interrupt  for  a  while  their  anec- 
dote and  song.  We  arrived  at  Walla  Walla  at  evening, 
just  in  season  to  find  a  shelter  from  one  of  the  most  violent 
thunder  storms,  accompanied  with  wind,  which  I  have  wit- 
nessed in  this  country.  Such  storms  are  of  rare  occurrence 
west  of  the  mountains. 


i'S^I  :■/'..  i".'-  t,* 


t*.i 
if, 


c '  ■/■''- ' 


I;., 


■  \^- 


'.-.  ■    r  f  «  '      :    V 


r 

% : 
(t  ■ 


'('it  i>'-r^ ill! "/!'.'    , 

'■  ,'i      •    ■t<lri.  ' 


■'"'  ".i"''"* 


^i.'^. 


300 


SNAKE    INDIANS. 


.:^vM 


CHAPTER  XXIll. 


A  summary  of  the  Indians  of  the  Upper  country— names  of  the  tribe? , 
their  locations  and  numbers— leave  Walla  Walla  for  Fort  Vancouver 
— swift  passage  down  the  river- run  the  Falls— Cascades — dangerous 
eddy — arrive  at  Vancouver — steam -boat  excursion. 


111' 


ii'i\  . 


^m'^ 

'  -'i: 

i::/;-;-' 


0i- 


■  Having  traveled  over  the  most  important  parts  of  the  up. 
per  country,  and  collected  the  facts  of  its  physical  condi- 
tion, together  with  the  location,  character,  and  condition  of 
the  most  numerous  tribes  of  Indians;  before  leaving 
this  section  of  the  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
it  may  be  proper  to  give  a  connected  summary  of  these  par. 
ticulars.  On  the  south  part  of  the  Oregon  Territory  adjoin. 
ing  Upper  California  are  located  the  Shoshones  or  Snake 
Indians.  I  was  not  able  to  gain  knowledge  of  their  defi. 
nite  numbers,  but  the  general  estimate  is  that  they  are  more 
than  ten  thousand.  Their  country  is  decidedly  the  most 
barren,  west  of  the  mountains  ;  most  parts  being  covered 
with  scoria  and  other  volcanic  productions.  These  Indians 
are  poor,  and  as  indicative  of  their  condition  and  their  re- 
sources,  they  are  called  Snake  Indians,  and  Rootdiggers. 
Some  of  them  go  to  the  mountains  and  hunt  buffalo,  and 
they  very  generally  resort  to  the  river  in  the  season  of  fish. 
ing.  They  have  a  tolerable  supply  of  horses.  When  they 
go  to  Rendezvous  they  make  a  great  display,  advancing  on 
horseback,  dressed  in  their  most  fantastical  manner,  exhib- 
iting  all  their  ornaments  of  feathers,  beads,  wolf-tails,  teeth 
and  claws  of  animals,  arranged  according  o  their  notions 
of  good  taste.  Their  warriors  are  armed,  nideously  paint- 
ed,  and  those  who  have  been  wounded  in  battle  are  very 
fond  of  showing  their  scars.     After  coursing  around  and 


INDIANS DIFF£B£NT  TRIBES. 


301 


through  the  camp  of  Rendezvous  for  some  time,  they  dis- 
mount and  go  through  the  ceremony  of  sliaking  hands.  I 
!uid  also  an  opportunity  of  seeing  many  of  the  Utaws  at 
Rendezvous.  Their  country  is  situated  to  the  east  and 
south-east  of  the  Shoshones,  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Colora- 
do river,  which  empties  into  the  gulf  of  California.  They 
number  nearly  four  thousand  persons.  They  appear  to  be 
a  mild  and  peaceable  people,  honest,  kind,  and  hospitable  to 
strangers ;  and  mild  and  affectionate  among  themselves. 
Tliey  live  by  hunting,  fishing,  and  gathering  roots  and  ber- 
ries.  Their  dress  is  plain,  and  their  manners  are  unassum. 
ing.  Their  country  is  warm,  of  fine  climate,  and  good 
soil.        1-  ,    /      .  ... 

Proceeding  north,  we  come  to  the  country  of  the  Nez  Per- 
ces,  which  has  many  fertile  parts  adapted  to  tillage,  and  all 
of  which  is  a  fine  grazing  country.  They  number  about  two 
thousand  five  hundred ;  but  they  have  been  so  often  rnen- 
lioned,  that  I  need  not  add  to  what  has  been  said  of  then). 

The  Cayuses  are  situated  to  the  west  of  the  Nez  Perc6s, 
and  very  much  resemble  them  in  person,  dress,  habits,  and 
morals.  They  are  equally  peaceable,  honest,  and  hospitable  to 
I  strangers.  They  number  more  than  two  thousand  persons. 
Their  wealth  consists  in  horses,  which  are  unusually 
fine,  and  numerous  ;  it  being  no  uncommon  thing  for  one 
man  to  own  several  hundred.  Their  country,  especially 
I  about  the  Grand  Round,  is  uncommonly  fertile,  producing 
spontaneously  cammas  in  great  abundance,  upon  which, 
with  fish  and  some  game,  they  principally  subsist.  Their 
anxiety  to  be  instructed  in  the  way  of  salvation  is  as  great 
as  that  of  the  Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads. 

The  Walla  Walla  Indians  inhabit  the  country  about  tbfd 
river  of  the  same  name,  and  range  some  distance  below, 
along  the  Columbia  river.  The  number  of  persons  in  this 
I  tribe  is  about  five  hundred.    In  their  character,  employ- 

..  ,  ,....    .,      26 


I",  j:.  f  1 

I'  "!•<:•.•  •■•'i;'"'  1 


■'.■yyPp.-'lr 

((-..••Ml."'    ■        ■     •■ 
•IV'i  i'    I     ,'    i* 

>  :r» "'it  ' 
i ':•■;':' r^  In.  ■  ■■ 


in    1<'  : 


iivrl'ii:' 


M;:i',i|:;:j:tr: 


•t|.  I'.' 


302 


INDIANS DIFFERENT  TRIBES. 


'M'. 


#-^ 


ments,  and  moral  habits,  they  do  not  materially  differ  from 
the  last  named  tribes. 

The  Paloose  tribe  are  properly  a  part  of  the  Nez  Perce  s, 
and  in  all  respects  are  like  them.  Their  residence  is  along 
the  Nez  Perce  river  and  up  the  Pavilion.  They  number 
about  three  hundred.  The  four  last  named  tribes  speak  the 
same  language  with  a  little  dialectical  difference. 

North.east  of  the  Palooses  are  the  Spokein  nation.  They 
number  about  eight  hundred  persons,   besides  some  small 
tribes  adjoining  them  who  might  be  counted  a  part  of  their 
nation.     I  have  so  fully  described  them  that  it  is  unneces. 
sary  to  enlarge  upon  their  character.     Their  country  is 
very  much  diversified  with  mountains  and  valleys,  prairie 
and  woods ;  and  a  large  part  is  of  primitive  formation ; 
some  parts  are  very  fertile.     They  denominate  themselves  I 
the  children  of  the  sun,  which  in  their  language  is  Spokein.  | 
Their  main  dependence  for  subsistence  is  upon  fishing  and  I 
hunting,  together  with  gathering  roots  and  berries.   1  have ! 
stated  that  a  commencement  is  made  in  agriculture,  which  { 
it  may  be  hoped  will  be  generally  adopted,  so  that  their  pre. 
sent  precarious  mode  of  living  may  give  place  to  that  which] 
will  be  substantial.  They  have  many  horses,  but  not  so  nu. 
merous  as  their  neighbors  farther  south. 

East  of  these  are  the  Coeur  d'Alene  Indians,  whose  num.j 
bers  are  about  seven  hundred,  and  who  are  characterized! 
by  civility,  honesty,  and  kindness.  Their  country  is  morel 
open  than  the  Spokeins',  and  equally,  if  not  better  adaptedl 
to  agriculture. 

The  country  of  the  Flatheads  is  still  farther  east  and 
south-east,  and  extends  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The\1 
are  a  very  interesting  tribe  ;  dignified  in  their  persons,  noJ 
ble,  frank,  and  generous  in  their  dispositions ;  and  have  alJ 
ways  shown  a  firm  attachment  to  white  men.  They  numJ 
ber  about  eight  hundred  persons,  and  live  a  wandering  lifeJ 
For  subsistence  they  follow  the  buffalo  upon  the  waters  oi 


if 


INDIANS*— A  chief's  ANECDOTE. 


303 


illy  differ  from 


Clarke  and  Salmon  rivers,  and  often  pass  over  to  the  head 
waters  of  the  Missouri.  They  have  become  a  small  tribe 
by  constant  wars  with  the  Blackfeet  Indians;  not  that  they 
themselves  are  of  a  ferocious  or  hostile  disposition.  Being 
averse  to  war,  they  wish  to  settle  upon  their  laniis,  and  are 
only  waiting  to  be  instructed  in  the  arts  of  civilization  and 
in  Christianity. 

Their  country  is  mountainous,  but  intersected  with  pleas- 
ant,  fertile  valleys,  large  portions  of  which  are  prairie. 
The  mountains  are  cold,  but  in  the  valleys  the  climate  is 
mild. 

An  anecdote  was  related  by  a  chief  of  this  nation,  which 
illustrates  their  native  character,  and  the  propensity  of  In- 
dians to  imitation.  He  said  the  first  white  men  he  saw, 
was  when  he  was  young.  It  was  summer.  He  said  these 
are  a  new  people,  they  look  cold,  their  faces  are  white  and 
red ;  go  make  a  large  fire,  and  I  will  ask  them  to  come  and 
warm  them.  In  a  short  time  his  people  had  made  a  fire, 
and  brought  new  buffalo  robes.  The  white  men  came  into 
his  lodge,  and  he  wrapped  them  in  the  robes  and  seated  them 
by  the  fire  that  they  might  be  warm.  The  robes  slipped 
off;  he  replaced  them.  Soon  the  white  men  made  signs  to 
smoke  their  pipe.  The  chief  thought  they  asked  for  food, 
and  brought  them  meat.  The  white  men  gave  him  the  pipe 
and  they  smoked,  and  after  this  they  loved  smoke,  and  they 
loved  the  white  men,  they  said  they  were  good. 

The  Ponderas  are  so  nearly  like  the  Flatheads  in  person, 
manners,  and  character,  that  a  particular  description  of 
them  may  be  passed  over.  They  number  about  two  thou- 
sand two  hundred,  and  live  on  the  north  of  Clarke's  river 
and  on  a  lake  which  takes  its  name  from  the  tribe.  Their 
country  has  many  fertile  parts,  and  would  soon  be  put  un- 
der cultivation,  if  they  could  obtain  instructors  to  teach 
them  agriculture  and  to  impart  to  them  a  knowledge  of  those 
things  which  are  necessary  to  constitute  a  happy  and  pros. 


...  'I*. 

'■•.■■...Vl.;.. 


m  ■  ■ 


■:■  •'•'1/  ••';■■ 


(h    ■„.. 

It- 


!l''i^, 


|!l!|l 


r 


304 


INDIANS DIFFERENT  TRIBES. 


w 


;m 


•I  1  •  ■'■■  ,A: 


tt 


mm 


perous  community.  Their  language  is  the  same  as  tlie 
Spokeins'  and  Flatheads'.  The  Cootanies  inhabit  a  section 
of  country  to  the  north  of  the  Ponderas  along  M'Gillivrav's 
river,  and  they  are  represented  as  an  uncommonly  interest. 
ing  people.  They  speak  a  language  distinct  from  all  the 
tribes  about  them,  open  and  sonorous,  and  free  from  gnttu. 
rals,  which  are  common  in  the  language  of  the  surroundinji 
tribes.  They  are  neat  in  their  persons  and  lodges,  candid 
and  honest,  and  kind  to  each  other.  I  could  not  ascertain 
their  numbers,  but  probably  they  are  not  over  a  thousand. 

There  are  several  other  tribes  of  Indians,  whose  countries 
are  situated  upon  the  waters  of  the  north-east  branch  of  the 
Columbia  river,  resembling  each  other  so  nearly  in  tlieir 
customs,  morals,  manners,  and  mode  of  living,  that  it  is  un- 
necessary  to  go  into  a  particular  description  of  each  sepa- 
rately.  I  will  mention  the  names,  locations,  and  number 
of  some  of  the  principaJi'  North  of  the  Cootanies  are  the 
Carriers,  whose  number  is  estimated  to  be  four  thousand ; 
and  south  of  these  are  the  Lake  Indians,  so  named  from 
their  place  of  residence,  which  is  about  the  Arrow 
lakes.  They  are  about  five  hundred  in  number.  At  the 
south,  and  about  Colville,  are  the  Kettle  Falls  Indians. 
Their  number  is  five  hundred  and  sixty.  West  of  these 
are  the  Sinpauelish,  one  thousand  in  number ;  and  below 
these  are  the  Shooshaps,  having  a  population  of  five  hund- 
red  and  seventy-five.  At  the  west  and  north-west,  next  in 
order,  are  the  Okanagans,  numbering  one  thousand  fifty. 
To  the  north  and  west  are  several  tribes,  about  whom  I  ob- 
tained  no  definite  information.  Between  Okanagan  and 
the  Long  Rapids  are  detachments  of  Indians,  who  appear 
poor,  and  wanting  in  that  manly  and  active  spirit,  which 
characterizes  the  tribes  above  named.  South  of  the  Long 
Rapids,  and  to  the  confluence  of  Lewis'  river  with  the  Colum- 
bia, are  the  Yookoomans,  a  more  active  people,  numbering 
about  seven  hundred.  The  whole  number  of  the  above  named 
Indians  is  thirty-two  thousand  five  hund  red  and  eighty. five. 


m:i 


DESCEND  THE  RIVER — STRONG  WIND. 


305 


This  is  probably  a  low  estimate,  and  in  the  number,  there 
are  not  included  the  Fall  and  La  Dalle  Indians,  and  many 
other  numerous  tribes  residing  at  the  north  and  south  of 
the  Falls  of  the  Columbia,  whose  numbers  I  could  not  with 
certainty  ascertain.  We  might  more  than  double  this  num- 
ber, and  probably  still  come  below  the  population  of  the  up- 
per country. 

The  Indians  to  whom  our  horses  were  entrusted,  came  in 
safely  as  I  expected.  After  resting  on  the  sabbath,  we  re- 
newed, on  Monday  the  6  th,  our  voyage  down  the  river,  hav- 
ing Fort  Vancouver  for  our  next  destination.  We  exchang- 
ed the  bateau  for  a  large  canoe,  retaining  the  men  who  at- 
tended  me  from  Okanagan.  Assisted  by  the  high  water, 
we  made  rapid  progress  until  three  in  the  afternoon,  when  a 
strong  head  wind  compelled  us  to  take  to  the  land  for  the 
remainder  of  the  day,  having  gone  seventy-five  miles.  The 
Indians  as  usual  came  to  us  in  their  friendly  manner, 
offering  us  salmon,  and  asking  tobacco,  which  they  esteem 
more  highly  than  either  gold  or  silver.  They  have  been 
accustomed  to  traffic  in  this  commodity,  until  they  expect 
it  of  every  passing  traveler. 

The  morning  of  the  7th  was  more  calm,  and  we  got  un. 
der  way  at  an  early  hour,  but  with  the  rising  day  the  wind 
again  increased  to  such  a  degree,  that  we  were  obliged  to 
suspend  our  voyage.  After  a  strenuous  endeavor  to  effect 
a  landing  on  the  north,  we  were  at  length  driven  across  to 
the  opposite  shore  ;  and  here  for  the  first  time  in  all  my 
travels,  I  found  it  impossible  to  pitch  my  tent ;  such  being 
the  strength  of  the  wind,  that  it  would  have  been  carried 
away.  The  canoe  was  drawn  upon  the  shore,  and  wrap- 
ping myself  in  my  blankets  and  buffalo  robes,  I  laid  me 
down  in  safety  by  the  side  of  the  canoe.  We  had  hero,  as 
at  all  our  other  landing  places,  the  usual  friendly  visit  from 
the  neighboring  Indians. 

The  following  day  we  were  able  to  resume  our  joumcv, 

26* 


■■■,  T'»*    „, 

,■ '•.{'■.  f>  .'.  ,-  ;,; 


"'■':: !..^.i;  '-■  "■- 

iv!;|r:-,|i;::  ■  4 


1  ! 


ill 


306 


FALLS  OF  THE  COLUMBIA LA  DALLESf^ 


■  »i 


mm- 


■"if  '?i-  «•      ■'■■ 


■Hr^l  \- 


I' 


a 


m\ 


and  passed  the  rapids,  which  in  the  tempest  of  yesterday^ 
looked  so  forbidding;  A  little  caution  on  the  part  of  my 
experienced  Frenchmen  in  regard  to  the  numerous  islands 
and  eddies,  enabled  us  to  effect  the  passage  in  perfect  safety. 
In  a  short  time  we  approached  the  falls  of  the  Columbia, 
which,  in  low  water  are  twenty  feet  perpendicular,  followed 
by  raging  rapids  below,  but  now  in  the  high  freshet  season 
they  are  passable  by  the  descending  boats  when  not  heavy 
laden.  Bousheau,  my  steersman,  proposed  to  run  them, 
and  while  I  was  revolving  in  my  mind  the  chances  of  safe. 
ty,  and  thought  of  going  on  shore,  before  I  anticipated,  we 
were  between  breakers  on  the  right,  and  on  the  left,  and 
onward  we  must  go  let  consequences  be  what  they  would. 
We  kept  near  the  middle  of  the  river,  which  was  free  from 
breakers,  though  not  from  high  surges.  Soon,  with  amaz< 
ing  velocity,  we  were  over  the  cataract  of  the  mighty  wa- 
ters, and  made  our  way  into  a  bay  at  the  head  of  the  first 
portage  of  the  La  Dalles.  The  accumulation  of  water 
from  those  stupendous  mountains  above,  was  so  great 
that  the  falls  were  almost  lost  in  the  depth. 

Such  were  the  eddies  and  surging  of  the  water  among  the 
rocky  islands  in  the  narrow,  broken  channel  of  the  La 
Dalles,  that  we  had  to  make  three  portages.  Our  canoe 
was  so  large  that  twenty  Indians  were  not  too  many  to  car- 
ry  it  safely.  Their  mode  of  carrying,  is  to  invert  it  up. 
on  their  heads  and  shoulders,  and  then  it  is  with  difficulty 
and  danger  that  they  pass  the  steep  and  rocky  ravines. 
When  we  came  to  the  last  portage,  the  Indians  were  not 
willing  to  take  hold  again  unless  we  would  pay  them  in 
powder  and  balls  ;  and  although  their  demands  were  rea. 
sonable,  yet  our  stores  were  not  adequate  to  meet  them,  and 
they  would  not  perform  ths  labor  without  the  required  arti- 
cle.  I  engaged  Sopelay,  and  another  influential  chief,  to 
induce  their  men  to  perform  the  labor  of  making  this  last 
portage,   and   promised  that   I  would  send  them  the  de- 


Mt^' 


BAXGEROUS  WHIRLPOOL* 


307 


mand  from  Fort  Vancouver,  and  for  their  security  f  would 
give  them  a  talking  paper.  They  stated  to  their  people  my 
proposal,  and  were  about  to  succeed,  when  TilkT,  the  first 
chief,  who  had  become  familiar  with  an  American  trader, 
laughed  at  their  credulity.  Sopelay,  however,  stated  to  the 
people,  that  he  had  seen  me  at  the  fort,  and  that  he  heard 
me  teach  the  Indians  good  things,  and  did  not  believe  f 
would  deceive  them.  He  prevailed,  and  the  men  took  hold 
of  the  work  ;  and  in  four  hours  from  passing  the  falls 
we  were  beyond  the  raging  waters,  where  we  made  our 
morning  repast  upon  very  fine  salmon. 

Our  passage  the  remainder  of  the  day  was  pleasant ;  we 
passed  Cape  Horn  without  difficulty,  and  landed  for  the 
night  twelve  miles  above  the  Cascades.  In  this  high 
state  of  the  water,  very  few  of  the  trees  of  the  submerged 
forest  were  to  be  seen. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th,  we  passed  the  Cascades  by 
hiring  Indians  to  cordelle  the  canoe  down  them,  by  making 
one  short  portage,  the  distance  of  two  miles,  to  the  great  ba- 
sin, or  rather  the  great  whirlpool  below.  This  labor  is  at- 
tended with  some  danger,  and  cases,  though  not  numerous, 
have  occurred  of  the  loss  of  lives  and  property.  As  I  walk* 
ed  along  the  shores  and  over  precipices,  I  saw  the  wrecks 
of  several  canoes  and  bateau  strewed  upon  the  rocks.  We 
embarked  upon  the  great  basin,  at  the  lower  part  of  wliich 
we  passed  into  a  rapid,  where  the  main  current  took  a  dia- 
gonal course  from  the  north  toward  the  south  shore.  On 
both  sides  of  this  current  there  were  heavy  breakers,  and  as 
the  only  course  of  safety,  we  took  the  middle.  We  had  not 
proceeded  far  before  a  large  whirlpool,  with  a  deep,  devouring 
vortex  formed  almost  directly  before  us,  and  as  we  were  go- 
ing forward  very  swiftly,  it  seemed  impossible  to  avoid  its 
circling  current.  I  said  to  my  steersman,  bear  a  little  to 
the  right.  "O  don't  speak  here,"  was  his  reply.  As  we  ap. 
proached  the  vortex,  it  filled  after  the  manner  of  smaller  ed- 


•.    ''Mr- 


r*': 


■:r 


308 


A  FIELD  FOR 


dies,  and  we  soon  felt  the  influence  of  its  waters  rolling  out 
from  the  centre,  and  all  our  strength  was  i-equired  to  resist 
them,  lest  we  should  be  thrown  upon  the  breakers.  We 
passed  with  the  rapidity  of  the  wind,  and  in  a  short  time 
were  upon  the  smooth  surface  of  the  tide  waters  below. 
The  sensations  excited  in  descending  these  Cascades  arc  of 
that  peculiar  character,  which  arc  best  understood  by  expe- 
rience. The  sensation  of  fear  is  no  sooner  awakened  than 
it  subsides,  before  the  power  and  magnificence  of  the  roll. 
ing  surges,  the  circling  vortices,  and  the  roaring  breakers. 
Let  those  whose  dormant  energies,  either  of  body  or  mind, 
need  arousing,  try  the  navigation  of  the  Columbia,  and  their 
powers  will  be  invigorated  for  almost  any  future  enterprise. 
Such  is  the  fascinating  power,  I  had  almost  said  magic  of 
these  scenes,  that  those  who  are  accustomed  to  the  employ, 
ment,  though  far  away  from  home  and  kindred,  become  at. 
tached  to  it,  and  are  reluctant  to  abandon  it  for  any  other. 
Each  time  the  scenery  of  these  interesting  Cascades  is  be- 
held, new  wonders  unfold  themselves.  Niagara  itself,  if 
we  except  its  unbroken  fall  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet, 
can  not  bear  a  comparison  with  the  superior  style  of  nature's 
works  here.  Nor  are  these  things  created  merely  to  draw 
out  momentary  admiration.  Science  in  very  many  of  its 
departments,  may  find  subjects  for  investigation. 

While  the  ornithologist  listens  to  the  songsters  of  the 
forest,  and  in  these  enchanting  solitudes  follows  them  with 
his  eye  as  they  dart  from  bough  to  bough  ;  his  attention  is 
arrested  by  the  noble  and  majestic,  white  headed  eagle,  as 
he  takes  his  favorite  perch  upon  the  loftiest  point  of  some 
leafless  tree,  or  as  he  darts  from  thence  upon  bis  prey  :  o 
his  attention  may  be  arrested  by  the  daring  flsh-hawk  in 
his  rapid  descent  upon  the  finny  tribe.  An  amusing  occur- 
rence took  place  in  my  view.  A  fish  hawk  seized  upon  a 
fish  of  such  magnitude,  that  the  contest  for  a  long  time  wa^ 
doubtful,  as  the  splashing  water  indicated,  which  should  c\- 


u 


1^ 


W^r-'^ 


UK  I 


NATURALISTS. 


309 


change  its  native  element.  Tlie  resistance  was  so  great, 
tliat  a  disengagement  was  deemed  the  hcst  policy. 

Here  also  the  hotanist,  while  he  forhcars  to  ascend  the 
lofty  mountains,  which  for  him  present  an  aspect  of  too 
much  dreariness,  may  retire  into  the  narrow  receding  val- 
leys, or  wind  his  way  over  sunny  hills  in  search  of  new  ge- 
nera of  plants,  or  at  least  new  species,  with  which  to  im. 
mortuli'zc  his  name,  and  to  add  to  the  stores  of  his  favorite 
science. 

The  geologist,  while  he  admires  the  stupendous  monu- 
nients  of  volcanic  operations  heroro  him,  may  also  fmd 
much  to  interest  him  in  examining  more  minute  formations. 
Along  the  rugged  shores  are  scattered  specimens  of  calcedo- 
ny,  jasper,  agate  and  cornelian.  He  may  examine  the  cel- 
lules of  the  immense  masses  of  amygdaloid  ;  the  columnar 
basalt,  and  the  mountains  shouting  up  their  denticulated 
forms  and  needle  points. 

His  attention  will  he  drawn  to  the  examination  of  the 
lava,  breccia,  and  trachyte ;  and  of  dendrolites  he  will  be 
interested  in  finding  many.  When  he  looks  at  the  deep 
channel  through  which  the  Columbia  river  finds  its  onward 
way  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  if  he  doubts  the  agency  of  God 
in  forming  the  courses  of  the  rivers,  he  may  indulge  his 
imagination  in  computing  how  long  it  has  taken  this  river 
to  wear  down  the  immensely  hard  basalt  a  thousand  feet ; 
and  having  ascertained  how  long  it  takes  to  wear  any  giv- 
en  depth,  he  may  then  make  his  mathematical  conclusions, 
how  much  longer  the  process  has  been  going  on  than  the 
Mosaic  account  of  the  age  of  the  world.  Or  to  shorten  the 
process,  he  may  prove  that  some  erratic  comet  has  drawn 
its  fiery  tail  along  this  course  and  melted  down  the  rocks. 
But  if  he  is  a  christian  philosopher,  while  he  admits  second 
causes,  he  may  look  up  to  the  great  first  Cause,  and  admire 
and  adore  ;  and  not  regarding  baseless  theories,  he  may  ex. 


.  ('  *k'  '-III- 1  - 

';"'i  ■■■(■'.    •,'■•, 
•  ■"  !i,'  ft  '  'i' 


''...'  .I,'- 


'  ''Li'  «■'■'    ■ 


310       ARRIVAL  AT  THE  FORT — STEAM-BOAT  EXCURSION. 


3 


^■M 


i'/} 


fK." 


claim,  "  How  wonderful  are  thy  works,  in  wisdom  hast  thou 
made  them  all."        , 

As  we  passed  out  of  the  mountain  country  about  the 
Cascades,  we  found  the  wide  valley  below  so  inundated,  as 
to  present  the  appearance  of  an  inland  sea.  I  arrived  safe- 
ly  at  the  fort,  found  my  friends  well,  and  exchanged  kind 
congratulations.  <" 

Sabbath,  June  12th,  I  preached  to  the  people  of  the  fort ; 
and  in  the  evening  a  third  service,  in  which  as  heretofore, 
an  opportunity  was  given  to  those  present,  to  propose  ques- 
tion  on  any  subject  of  religion  about  which  they  wished  in- 
formation.  I  was  particularly  gratified  to  find,  that  during 
my  absence,  public  worship  had  been  maintained,  and  that 
an  eflTort  had  been  made  to  bring  the  French  Canadians  to 
attend  upon  religious  instruction.  They  are  assembled 
twice  on  the  sabbath,  and  a  portion  of  scripture  and 
a  sermon  in  French,  are  read  to  them  by  Dr.  McLaughlin. 

I  was  favored  with  an  opportunity  to  send  to  Sopelay  the 
promised  powder  and  balls  by  Capt.  Black,  a  gentleman  of 
the  Company,  who  was  to  leave  Vancouver  for  his  station 
north  of  Fort  Okanagan,  in  a  few  days. 

On  the  14th,  we  took  a  water  excursion  in  the  steam-boat 
Beaver,  Capt.  Home,  down  the  Columbia  to  the  confluence 
of  the  western  branch  of  the  Multnomah  ;  up  this  river  into 
the  Willamette,  and  then  into  the  middle  branch  of  the 
Multnomah,  and  through  it,  into  the  Columbia,  and  back  to 
the  fort.  All  the  low  lands  were  overflowed  with  the  an. 
nual  fi-eshet,  and  presented  the  appearance  of  an  immense 
bay,  extending  far  into  the  country.  The  day  was  pleasant 
and  our  company  cheerful.  The  novelty  of  a  steam-boat 
on  the  Columbia,  awakened  a  train  of  prospective  reflec 
tions  upon  the  probable  changes,  which  would  take  pla^fi  in 
these  remote  regions,  in  a  very  few  years.  It  was  wiiolly 
an  unthought  of  thing  when  I  first  contemplated  this  enter- 


NAVIGABLE  WATERS. 


311 


3XCURSI0N. 

idom  hast  thou 

atry  about  the 

I  inundated,  as 

I  arrived  safe- 

xchanged  kind 

iple  of  the  fort ; 
I  as  heretofore, 
:o  propose  ques. 
they  wished  in. 
ind,  that  during 
:ained,  and  that 
1  Canadians  to 
are   assembled 
f  scripture  and 
r.  McLaughUn. 
d  to  Sopelay  the 
a  gentleman  of 
for  his  station 

n  the  steam-boat 
)  the  confluence 
p  this  river  into 
branch  of  the 
)ia,  and  back  to 
with  the  an. 
of  an  immense 
ay  was  pleasant 
3f  a  steam-boat 
)spective  reflec 
Id  take  pla^p  in 
It  was  wiiolly 
lated  this  enter- 


prise, that  I  should  find  here  this  forerunner  of  commerce  and 
business.  The  animation  which  prevailed  was  often  sus- 
pended, while  we  conversed  of  coming  days,  when  with  civ- 
ilized men,  all  the  rapid  improvements  in  the  arts  of  life, 
should  be  introduced  over  this  new  world,  and  when  cities 
and  villages  shall  spring  up  on  the  west,  as  they  are  spring- 
ing up  on  the  east  of  the  great  mountains,  and  a  new  em- 
pire be  added,  to  the  kingdoms  of  the  earth. 

The  Columbia  is  the  only  river  of  magnitude  in  the  Or- 
egon Territory,  and  this  is  navigable  for  ships  only  one 
hundred  and  thirty  miles  to  the  Cascades  ;  and  it  is  the  on- 
ly  one  which  affords  a  harbor  for  large  ships  on  the  coast, 
from  California  to  the  49°  of  north  latitude.  For 
bateau  and  various  other  light  craft,  the  Columbia  and  its 
branches  are  navigable  a  thousand  miles.  The  internal 
navigation  might  be  much  improved  by  canals  around  the 
rapids  and  falls,  which  are  so  numerous  that  ascending 
the  rivers  is  now  diflicult.  Still  a  considerable  interior 
trade  is  carried  on  by  means  of  these  waters,  and  the  inge- 
nuity of  men  on  the  west,  when  it  shall  be  more  extensive- 
ly populated,  will  contrive  facilities,  as  on  the  east,  for 
greatly  improving  the  intercourse  of  remote  and  different 
portions  of  this  territory. 


iiii  ■♦•!■•";# 

Mil.™   .;  ,'  I.     iJlUJ 

■  Wc".  ■ 
',m  ■■■-■'-' 

.'I'  ""I     . 
.,mU  ,: 

I.iiSii  U;;"(3' 

Uv  *•■ '' ' 

:  lifp  If-;  ■  ■■ 

■  'Hi  ";■' '  ■  '  !* 


■('..ii; 


Ml,; 

*  *  f  '  <  »  •  1- 


•   4-'  . 


312 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


*-   »      V 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


General  remarks — Meteorological  table — Vocabulary  of  the  Nez  PercC) 
Chenook,  Klicatat,  and  Caliapooa  languages— Ornithology. 


i 


^J: 


11^ 

II 

3*.  i; 


4 


Having  explored  the  most  important  parts  of  this  terri. 
tory,  and  gained  all  the  information  within  my  reach,  as  to 
the  several  objects  pi*oposed  in  my  instructions  from  the 
Board  of  Foreign  Missions ;  and  especially  having  ascer- 
tained to  my  entire  satisfaction  the  two  most  prominent 
facts,  namely,  the  entire  practicability  of  penetrating  with 
safety  to  any  and  every  portion  of  the  vast  interior,  and  the 
disposition  of  the  natives  in  regard  to  my  mission  among 
them,  it  remained  that  the  most  feasible  and  expeditious 
mode  of  returning  should  next  be  consulted.  I  could  expect 
to  acquire  but  little  additional  knowledge  in  traversing  the 
route  to  Rendezvous ;  and  the  necessary  delay  of  several 
months,  it  seemed  could  be  avoided  by  a  return  by  water. 
The  Hudson  Bay  Company  were  about  to  send  a  ship  to 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  in  which  I  was  kindly  offered  a  gra- 
tuitous  passage.  On  the  other  hand,  my  friendship  with 
gentlemen  of  this  establishment,  my  regard  for  the  spiritu. 
al  welfare  of  the  benighted  men  for  whose  good  I  had  for 
many  a  weary  day  pursued  my  object,  over  mountains  and 
rivers,  hills  and  valleys,  through  all  the  vicissitudes  of 
climate  and  weather ;  and  especially  a  desire  to  see  in  this 
whitened  field,  the  returning  laborers  I  expected,  and  to  be 
able  to  give  them  personally,  instead  of  by  letter,  the  result 
of  my  collected  information,  as  a  guide  to  them  in  their  in. 
cipient  labors  ;  all  this  held  me  riveted  to  the  spot,  and  un* 
decided  as  to  my  course.    At  length  after  consultation  with 


I  of  this  terri. 
ly  reach,  as  to 
ons  from  the 
having  ascer- 
lost  prominent 
netrating  with 
iterior,  and  the 
nission  among 
nd  expeditious 
I  could  expect 
traversing  the 
;lay  of  several 
urn  by  water, 
lend  a  ship  to 
offered  a  gra- 
riendship  with 
ibr  the  spiritu- 
[ood  I   had  for 
ioun  tains  and 
icissitudes  of 
to  see  in  this 
|ted,  and  to  be 
itter,  the  result 
m  in  their  in- 
spot,  and  un* 
isultation  with 


DEPARTUKE  FOR  OAIIU — REFLECTIONS. 


313 


my  most  judicious  friends,  I  concluded  to  tnko  passage  in 
the  harque  Columbia  for  Oahn,  in  the  hope  that  a  speedy 
opportunity  would  present  to  return  to  the  United  States. 

In  taking  leave  of  this  country  and  the  work  in  which 
I  have  so  long  time   been  engaged,  a   train  of  reflections 
crowd  upon  my  mind.     Tiic  future  condition  of  this  noble 
race  of  men  is  a  subject  of  interesting  enquiry  to  many 
others  as  well  as  myself.     Whether  the  Indians  are  to  pass 
away  before  the  increasing  power  and  numbers  of  white 
men  ;  or  whether  enlightened  and  improved  by   their  phi- 
lanthropy, they  shall  arise  in  tlie  scale  of  human  existence 
is  a  question,  wiiich  at  the  present  time  is  attracting  atten- 
tion and  inviting  investigation.     I  entered  on  the  w^ork  of 
exploring  this  field  with  no   bias  or  preconceived  opinion, 
and  from  critical  and  personal  observation,  I  hesitate  not  to 
say  that  I  can  see  no  reason  existing  in  the  nature  of  thingM, 
or  in  their    present  condition,  which,  necessarily  doorrw 
the    race    to   annihilation  on   the   one   hand,   or   on    the 
other  necessarily  makes  them  objects  of  apprehension,  as 
the  future  hordes  who  shall  in  coming  time,  like  the  north- 
ern barbarians  of  Roman  days,  be  reserved  as  the  scourge 
of  an  overgrown  and  decaying  republic.     If  to  do  good  l»c 
an  object  worthy  of  humanity  or  religion,  I  see  not  why  a 
consistent  and  persevering  attempt  to  raise  a  race  of  free- 
men from  their  depression,  and  to  place  them  in  the  rank 
of  intelligent  men,  be  not  an  undertaking  fraught  with  as 
mucli  promise  and  encouragement,  as  it  was  in  earlier  days 
to  raise  our  ancestors  to  their  present  elevation.     In  favor 
of  this  opinion,  we  have  the  docility  of  the  Indians  in  evf - 
ry  thing  pertaining  to  their  improvement;  in  the  sprightli- 
MPss  of  their  youth  and  children  ;  and  in  the  amiablcnewi 
of  their  native  tempers  and  dispositions  among  themselves. 
1  take  nothing  of  this  upon  testimony.     In  all   my   inter- 
course with  them,  I  saw,  with  only  one  exception,  no  an- 
{irv  or  malevolent  passions  in  exercise  in  their  little  cowv 
87 


ut 


'■•it      !L;'    w' 

|H"     "'J 

'ti'HJii,.,.,-- 

■('     II       lltK;  flu 

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H'i'j'  , 

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ft- ■ 


.1].  ■' ., 


:|i' 


it 
I 


314 


REMARKS. 


^■-: 


munities.  Why  shall  any  look  down  upon  the  Indian 
with  contempt  and  doom  his  race  to  annihilation,  and  judge 
of  the  whole,  by  those  who  have  learned  the  vices  of  white 
men,  and  had  those  vices  stimulated  and  strengthened  by 
the  cupidity  of  those  who  have  excited  them  ?  Why  shall 
not  a  redeeming  influence  be  exerted  to  bring  the  Indians 
to  an  elevated  condition,  to  which  their  independent  and 
ambitious  dispositions  aspire,  and  to  which  God,  as  a  part 
of  the  family  of  man,  designed  them  ? 

I  have  in  several  places  made  mention  of  the  superior 
mildness  of  the  climate  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
that  the  seasons  are  divided  into  the  wet  and  dry  ;  the  rainy 
season  commencing  about  the  first  of  November,  and  the 
dry  about  the  first  of  May.  The  following  meteorological 
table,  which  was  taken  with  care,  will  give  a  general  spec:. 
men. 


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METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


31 


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1 


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ca 

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o 
en 


rS     -=3 

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5 


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o 


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816 


IHCETEOROLOOICAL  TABLK. 


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CO  cvj  o  r^  o  00  Tt 
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f-tcv?co^iO'X>t^ooaiOr-H.i 

OJOlOKNCvJCVIOiGVJOJCOCOg 


CQ 


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QO 


KBTBOROIiOOIGAL  TABLS. 


317 


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s  -s 


COrJ<00'^^COC0Tl<C0COC0C0COCOrJ<CO'«^C0CO 

CO(Mi-<iD00^01:^T-i(M;OOOiOOCOOO'^iiOOO 
'^rJH^^T^'^COr:}HriHT:JHCOCO^'«^rt<r^^COCO 

COCOW(MCiOJ"^00000(MOlOOOlDQOOCOOJ 
C0C0C0C0COCOCO<:O00Tt<COCOCOC0COCOT:J<COC0 

CO 


27* 


CO 


ca 


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if 


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m:, 


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818 


MBTEOROLOOICAL  TABLE. 


{ 


Si 
3-3 


>i 

>< 

S 

• 

SJ 

E 

S 

n 

hi 

«> 

«D 

S 

0) 

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3     .ti    «    «« 


•-S  fi— 4        V— 4  "-^        «*^       ^^  _^       ^-^     f—4        ^-4 


CD 

a 

01         '*i 


U 

B 


g  :s 
s   s 

s   s 


pjjjf?^*'.- 


If.  >• 


•3 

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« 
S 

Ok 


I 

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1 

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CO  00  CO  rt* 

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COCOCOC0COC0OJO0COCO^rt"^rf^ 

«^  00  t-t  CO 

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T-^COCVJCO'?fCVJCVJCO^^OlO(M<^CVJ 
C0C0(MCVJCV?(iMCVJCOC0C0C0C0COCV!C0 

o  ,<^  cvicort*io^i>QoaiO'-<OJcort*io 


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METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


ixi 


319 


-l! 


s 


s 

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n 

« 
OQ 

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cs 

9 

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GO 


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:•!!■    S?;     If;    ! 


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■T3       "       "  '^ 

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a 


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^      ^     O      O     o     o     o 


S     o     50050 

"rr      m     t;      ci      cj     T!      cj 


o     " 


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M        U     {314     U 


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0  00  «o 

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0  ^  "^ 
10  'Tf  10 

X)i^QoaiQ^(>?coTfLC)cr'i^ooaiOf-^ 

rHpH^r-i5lCVlCvi(>iCvJGViCVtCV(M0^C0C0 


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320 


METEOROLOOIGAL  TABLB. 


• 

>. 

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ri 

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cd 

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• 

• 

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0) 

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el 

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W 


METE0H0L06ICAL  TABLE. 


321 


•  11".,  ■■■" 


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ID  00  "Tt*  0 

::>  CO  CO  CO 

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I^CVJ  OJ  C^ 


X)  O  "^  '^D  •>£>  '^  ^  O  Oi 

rjcocococococo-^co 


Oi  ^  o-i  ^  a>  '-^  en  no  a  CO 


M  CO  CO  CO '^  CO  CO  Tf  rf      'rf^  "rf^ -rf  r?^  ^f  ^  rf  CO  "^  CO 


X)  00  (M  ^O  O  '^  -^  '^  '^      i-O  O  00  Ci  'X  (X  O  ^  CV?  CV? 

^iGVJcococococo■:oco    co-^cocococncocococo 


.>iCViOI(M(>?(MCV!C0C0g  ,-^ 

0(J  w  ^  tw 


322 


METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


(3 


a> 
o 

> 

OS 


si     (Q 

^H     bj     ^ 


o 


<a 


o 


)=: 

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(3 


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VI 


SQ 


METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


323 


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13 


METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


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METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE, 


1)25 


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326 


METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


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0  (X)  i^  i-^ 

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Q  CO  rt<  IH) 


»2 


VOCABULARY. 


327 


VOCABULARY  OF  INDIAN  LANGUAGES. 


NEZ    PERCE 

LANGUAGE. 

English' 

Indian. 

God, 

hemakis  Tota. 

Spirit, 

koonapa . 

Fatlier, 

tota. 

Man, 

hama. 

Woman, 

iat. 

Mother, 

peka. 

Child, 

meaits. 

Brother, 

uskeep. 

Sister, 

axsip. 

Husband, 

hama. 

Wife, 

waipna. 

I, 

«n. 

Thou, 

em. 

He, 

emim. 

She, 

aiat. 

It,      - 

ke. 

They, 

elahne  tetokan. 

People, 

tctokan. 

Heaven, 

accompenaka. 

Earth, 

waitush. 

Water, 

coos. 

Fire, 

aula. 

Snow,      ■ 

maika. 

Rain, 

waikit. 

Wood, 

haitsu.       » 

Grass, 

pax. 

Hell  or  bad  spirit, 

koonapa  kapsoish. 

Horse, 

shecum. 

White  Bear, 

ha  hilts. 

Black  Bear, 

eakat. 

Beaver, 

taxpulL 

Otter, 

collas.                  •' 

Deer, 

enishnini. 

Moose, 

taissheep. 

Butlalo, 

cocoil. 

■II).,: 


'if;'!-'''  '*'■  ! 


m 


4 


f  ri'. '■;■;   j 

,,;.(;;  ...    '       ' 
.1':^"::     ■  " . 
..■,,;■..'      , 


•i>V'.. 


i: 


:;"'ii 


.11  t 


I 


l\;i:l 


''■'    ,'.L  j,- 


tl- 


"':»' 


w 


92S 


VOCABULARY. 


Wolf, 

Salmon^ 

Trout, 

Gun, 

Pdwder, 

Ball, 

Stone, 

What  is  that  ? 

Who  is  that  ? 

There, 

Here,. 

Where, 

When, 

How  many  ? 

None,  * 

All, 

Plenty, 

Near  by. 

Great  way  oflV 

This  road, 

Stop, 

Go, 

Run, 

Gw  fast, 

Stop  here, 

Encamp, 

Sleep, 

Eat, 

I  hear. 

Yon  hear, 

I  understand. 

Come, 

r  know, 

You  know, 

He  knows, 

They  know, 

I  do  not  know^ 

Talk, 

Ride,      .      ^'  " 

Wait, 

Swim, 

Love, 


siyah. 

natso. 

wowalthum, 

temoon. 

popokes. 

saip. 

pishwa. 

etu  ke. 

eshe  ke 

koone. 

kene. 

mene. 

mowwa. 

moits. 

sTou,  ' ' 

oekalla. 

elahne. 

keemta* 

wyat. 

iskit. 

collo. 

coetuc. 

willaikit. 

haum  teets.  . 

collo  kene. 

wispeix. 

penemeek. 

hipsh.  \ 

en  amachish. 

em  amachish  >    .  . 

en  amacus. 

come. 

en  soko. 

em  soko* 

emimsoko.       . 

elahne  tetokan  soko, 

waiitu  en  soko. 

tumtein. 

wyatcus. 

coats. 

shuway.  .    ■;iX^ 

aitou,  \ 


VOCABULAKY. 


Hate, 
Kill, 
Alive, 
Make, 
Take, 
Cany, 
Give, 
Pay, 

Make  fire, 
Worship, 
Smoke, 
Sun,  moon, 
Prairie, 
^     Mountain, 
Friend, 
Chief, 
Nez  Perce, 
BJacktbot, 
Bonnax, 
American, 
Frenchman, 
Head, 
Hair, 
Arm, 
Leg, 
Foot, 
Cloth, 
Saddle, 
Pack, 
-Beads, 
Good, 
Bad, 
No, 
Yes, 
Great, 
Small, 
Sick, 
Well, 
To-day, 
Yesterday, 
Once  more, 
White, 

28* 


waiitu  aitou. 

wapseou. 

wai  kus. 

ainees. 

enip. 

enip  coeta. 

enahanim. 

tuinaitcus. 

ailix. 

toUa  poosa. 

keieta. 

hasum  looks. 

paix. 

mashun. 

sextua. 

meohot. 

nCimepo. 

quasne. 

tuelca. 

sueapo. 

allTma. 

hooshus. 

hookoo. 

artum. 

wain. 

akooa. 

taliea. 

supen  sapoos, 

supen  saps. 

collowin. 

tois. 

kapseis. 

waiitu. 

ai. 

hemakis. 

coots. 

coiiiitsa. 

penamina. 

tax. 

watish. 

nox  emaka. 

hihi. 


329 


*''•■■ 
f  i. 


:)■,■;• 


,fi !:' 


jrtiliri    :■■■■ 


m 


.Mil'    ,• 


(,!.)!((= 


'W^ii'^:!'- 


330 


VOCABUlAHf 

9 

cinmo  cimmetDu. 

i 

Ipclp. 

ailisj]. 

penasLiet. 

10 

portuinpt. 

11 

nox  tit. 

12 

lapect  tit.   . 

20 

laap  tit. 

30 

nietaip  tit. 

40 

pclap  tit. 

50 

pahap  tit. 

100 

pooctap  tit. 

Black,      ^ 
Red, 

Vermilion, 
Paint, 

I  nox. 

"i  lapeet. 

3  metait. 

4  peelep. 
.    5  pahut. 

6  elaix. 

7  quoenapt. 
6  weinuttut. 
d  quoics. 

VOCAKULARY  OF  THi:  KLICATAT  NATIOIV,  WHO  INHABIT  l^llW 
COUriTKY  NORTH  GF  THE  CASCADES. 


English. 
God, 

Evil  spirit, 
Sun, 
Moon, 
Stars, 
Fire, 
Earth, 
Water, 
Stone, 
Wood, 
House,    ' 
Bread, 
Fish, 
Deer, 
Bird, 
Cov/, 
Horse, 
Dog, 
Boat, 
Man, 
Woman, 
Girl, 
Boy^ 
Fingers,^ 
Foot, 


Indian, 
Moyoh. 
melah. 
an. 

ulhigh'. 
kashlo. 
lokkowouksv 
te  'tsum. 
chow  wass. 
'p's  swah. 
il  quass. 
enneet. 
shappleel. 
t'  kuinnat. 
owinnat, 
'hat  'hot. 
moos  moos  stun- 
kosce. 
kosikkosee. 
qaassass. 
wince, 
iyet. 

p'tceniks. 
ass  wan. 
pahhahtopat. 
w&tlekas.       ■• 


.^ 


VOCABULARY. 


381 


HABIT  Unv 


Toe, 

Tongue, 

Ear, 

Mouth, 

Lip, 

Black, 

Wliite, 

Green, 

Yellow, 

Red, 

Good, 

Bad, 

High, 

Low, 

Many, 

Few, 

Little, 
Who  ? 
What? 

Knite, 

Bow, 

Arrow, 

Gun,    ' 

Sea, 

River, 

Luke, 

Mount  a  in, 

Hill, 

Valley, 

Plain; 

Here, 

There, 

Near, 

Far  oft; 

Night, 

Day, 

Wliere, 

Wiien, 

I  walk, 

I  talk. 

None, 

I  know, 


owhunghc. 


njclkese, 
misshu  (i)lu.)  pesaiimisshu. 
metolla'hhow. 
uni,  (pill.)  pcsah  urn. 
chCiiiook, 
pilla.s. 
lahm't. 

penahkunnootowass, 

kluti?ah. 

seyah. 

chilooeet. 

•(|uaahn!e. 

niCtee. 

hngh'lak.  '     • 

niiliah. 

iks.'ks. 

sindewah. 


Sinmisswah. 

hahhittehne. 

toonjinpasrs. 

kiasso. 

too\vini)ass. 

ultackass. 

waunah. 

wattum. 

'ke'ii 

pussque. 

•tkop. 

tak. 

itche. 

ekko 


no. 
*tsahpah. 
weat'tpah. 
«tset. 

echoosah. 
minnan. 
rnittach. 
inikwcnahsah. 
siiiwesah. 
chahow. 
assooksah. 


if.-i.    ^  ■ : 

I'  '•■«,* 

i         ..1 


i  p,  ■■■ 

♦  '  - 


;•■',•  :ii 


■•■■  .'■  i.i; 


■  ..  li, 


■  <  '■     .:' 

:      . 

'■:k  '  I: 


832 


tm 


VOCABULARY. 

I  have  known, 

mewe  sah  sooh  sah 

I  see, 

enahuklieno  sah. 

I  liear, 

innasick  sah. 

I  taste, 

quatas  sah. 

I  smell, 

annookse  sah. 

I, 

sah. 

Thou, 

imk' 

He, 

eqaak. 

She, 

equakiik. 

Head, 

chlamtukh. 

Eye, 

tats'k 

Back, 

koopkoop. 

Come, 

winniim. 

Go, 

winnak. 

Give, 

annik.                     ' 

Laige, 

*nche. 

Smaller, 

mi'nchc. 

Smallest, 

ooksooks. 

Beautv, 

seen  he  wall. 

All, 

k'lhweek. 

True, 

chawnumsisk. 

False. 

t'sis. 

Chief, 

kooMtup. 

Comnicn  men, 

Avullumteen. 

My  father, 

hahtootas. 

My  mother. 

naheclas. 

Elder  hrother. 

nahnahnas. 

Younjrcr  hrother, 

incoks. 

Sister, 

inchats. 

Hiishand, 

inman. 

Yes, 

dch. 

No, 

waht. 

Benvor, 

wispiiss. 

Rahhit, 

siiiwe. 

Cat, 

wasswass. 

Wolf, 

cnahte. 

Bear, 

'hollees. 

Otter, 

nooksi. 

La/iness, 

ilkkah. 

Sl(Tp, 

Usotali. 

Soft, 

liqnatuquat. 

Strength, 

h*too.                       ' 

VOCABrLART. 

Swan, 

wfihlialow. 

Goat, 

powyanin. 

Beads, 

k'pput. 

Cokl, 

'tsoisah. 

Hard, 

k'ttet'k. 

1     lah's. 

12     neep'twjlppena. 

2     neep'l, 

13     niettapt\v{ippena. 

ii     mettapt*. 

20     neeptit, 

4     peneep't, 

;iO     mettaptit. 

5     pahhat, 

40     peneeptit, 

a     p'tuhninis, 

50     palihaptit, 

7     tooskas. 

60     p'tuhninsaptit, 

8     pahhalihemaht. 

70     toosknlisaptit. 

9     Hsawlawsimkah. 

80     pahhahtusap'tit. 

10     hoteni. 

90     'tsaulochsaptit, 

1 1     lah'swappena, 

100     potemtit. 

VOCABULAKi'  OF 

THE  CALAPOOA    NATI0^•. 

God, 

'ntsompate 

Heaven, 

ahlupklooah 

Evil  spirit, 

ehwakehe 

Hell, 

owievenah 

Sun, 

*npeun 

Moon, 

♦ntope 

Stars, 

*ntsalo\vah 

Fire, 

uninii 

Eartlj, 

umpullo 

Wind, 

♦ntolonh 

Water, 

♦mpahke 

Wood, 

owattuk 

Stone, 

'ntaugii 

Bone, 

♦ntsa 

House, 

ummi' 

Bread, 

shapplco! 

Fish, 

♦ntuniuak 

Deer. 

ammoke' 

Elk, 

'ntokali 

Bird, 

noknok 

Horse, 

kuetan 

Cow, 

njoosnioos 

I>og, 

•n'tul 

Bout» 

Miipnw 

3:53 


V H.  it*:'.  1 


334 


VOCABULARY. 

Man, 

*noihee 

Woman, 

ehwahktsut 

Boy, 

ehwahpyah 

Girl, 

'mpeena 

I, 

tsa 

Thou, 

mah 

He, 

annoihe 

She, 

ahwahkkotsut 

My  father. 

hum  nee 

Your  father, 

makkan  nee 

My  motlicT, 

sin  nee 

Eltler  hrother. 

tah 

Sister, 

shetup 

Husband, 

tahwahke 

Wife, 

tahwahkc 

Yes, 

aw 

No, 

kussowe 

Head, 

'                  unquah 

Moutli, 

tinte 

Chin, 

«tlak 

Teetli, 

tinte 

Arm, 

t'ntooque 

Hand, 

t'lakcpiah 

Finger 

taw'nah 

Foot, 

teuofoh 

Ear, 

toandunkahtah 

Black, 

mo' 

White, 

mow* 

Blue, 

Mnpulunk, 

Green, 

pitchish 

Red, 

'tselow 

Good, 

misso 

Bad, 

k  ask  ah 

High, 

t.'-aniiivunk 

Low, 

wallah 

Many 

milloe 

Few, 

•mponuk 

Large, 

pellah 

Small, 

ctoo 

Who, 

mc'(>h 

Whnt, 

aimikkee 

Knite, 

'nkaniibtik 

■^  * 


tic  . 


VOCABULARY. 

Bow, 

unchin 

Arrow, 

un'owsuk 

Gun, 

sukwallahlah 

Sea, 

mullak 

River, 

*ntsok 

Lake, 

wassetnummeke 

Mountain, 

peotahmefook 

Valley, 

wMlah 

Night, 

moovoo 

Day, 

'mpeyon 

Here, 

m'hash 

There, 

piefan 

Near 

'mchillali 

Far  off, 

ni'lokkio 

Where, 

mutchoo 

When, 

tahnondeh 

To  talk. 

tanuk 

To  walk. 

o'w&llowah 

None, 

*nwa 

I  see. 

chats'onhot'n 

Beaver, 

*nkipeah 

All, 

teloh 

Chief, 

'ntsombeek 

Common  .'  ", 

anwoekee 

Come, 

mahek 

Go, 

tattea 

Give, 

mahaque 

Swan, 

mow                       ' 

Rahbit, 

iimpon 

Wolf, 

molent 

Bear, 

■iiiino 

Sleep, 

towi 

Hard,       . 

'p'tsfikkolloo 

Soff, 

Mnptit'l 

Boil, 

liplip 

1     townolu 

S     kc'nifiwc 

2     kanial), 

9     'quisitcli 

3     posh in. 

10     teeneefefih 

4     toiiwaii. 

1 1     tocnofoalipotownah 

5     \\\\\ 

1 2     toeiiotiiahpokumuh 

fl     tfttib 

■JO     kcefotoncfcnh 

7     p'sinmewc 

30    p'shintcnofeah 

335 


r    ' 


I 


!  :. 


336 


VOCABULARY. 


c! 


50     top  wall  tenefeah 

100     tenefeah          .  h4^ 

40     wultenefeah 

1000     tumpeah 

VOCABULARY  OF  THE  CIIEXOOK  LANGUAGE  AS  SPOKEN 

ABOUT 

FORT  VAXCOUVER. 

God, 

Cannum           '     ' 

Heaven, 

coosah 

Earth, 

illaha 

Fire, 

olaptska 

Water, 

isuck 

Sea, 

weeoma                   s 

*  River, 

ibolt 

Sun, 

otiah            :;    : 

Moon, 

ootleum 

Evil  spirit,       '    „ 

skookoom              ,  V ' 

Hell, 

skookoom 

Boat, 

conim                       i 

Knife, 

opitsah             /.      J 

Gun, 

sucw^llal 

Powder, 

poolalla 

Ball, 

colietan                  ' ,[ 

Air, 

kummataz              t»,( 

I, 

nika                      "  -l  J 

Thou, 

mika                       ■    . 

He, 

yahkah 

She, 

yahkah 

It  or  them, 

klaska                • .   .  , 

Chief, 

tie 

Boy, 

kaskas 

Girl, 

I'kpho 

Sister, 

ahts 

Father, 

tiiecumniuiua 

Mother, 

st*llmama 

Pe(»ple, 

tilecum                  , 

\'es. 

ah,  aha 

No, 

wayick  or  wake 

Good,             ^ 

close 

Bad, 

wake  close 

Very  bad. 

nicstsa 

Large, 

hias 

Small, 

tunas                   "  . 

Far, 

sja                              I 

Little  way, 

tunas  .sia 

1 


VOCABULARY. 

Great  way. 

hias  sia 

To  go  fast, 

clatua  hiuc    '  , 

Not  fast, 

wake  hiuc 

Black, 

klaait 

White, 

t'koop 

Blue, 

spock 

Red, 

pelpil 

Green, 

pcteish 

High, 

saghalle 

Low, 

kekuile 

Now, 

witka 

Much, 

oghooway 

Little, 

tunas 

Who, 

•tkaksta 

What, 

ikta 

Mountain, 

saghalle  illaha 

Valley, 

kekuile  illaha 

Where, 

cah 

Here, 

ookook 

Night, 

poUaklc 

None, 

haino 

Bear, 

siano 

Beaver, 

eena 

Fox, 

tiskowkow 

Wolf, 

leelo 

Deer, 

mouecch. 

Horse, 

kuetan 

Cow, 

moosmoos 

Dog, 

kamux 

Salmon, 

(juanagh 

Bird, 

kallakalla 

Speak, 

Wj\Wii 

1  speak. 

nica  wfiwA, 

'I'hou  speakest, 

mica  wflwa 

He  speaks, 

yakkti  wiwa 

They  spetik. 

klaska  wtlwH 

Make, 

mammook 

T  make. 

nica  mammook 

Thou  inakest, 

mica  mammook 

He  makes, 

ya,kk{\  mammook 

They  mako, 

klaska  mammook 

Come, 

chawko 

•29 

337 


■i..:';.  .if' 


* 


ii.i'fi 


Hi,.?'!''"  • 

HI'  ■:'•■ 


•i:.-' 


..;<<;> 


338 


0                                            ORNITHOLOGY. 

Perhaps,  or  I  do  not  know, 

chinas 

Understand. 

cumetax 

.  I  understanc'. 

nica  cumetax 

Now  I  understand, 

alta  nica  cumetax 

Sleep, 

moose  )m 

I  have,  or  it  is  with  me, 

mitlit  nica 

T  walk. 

nica  clatuwa 

Long  ago. 

aunacotta 

See, 

nonencech 

Eat, 

mucamuc 

1     eght, 

8     stoghtkin, 

2     moxt. 

9     quiitz, 

3     none. 

10     taughlelum, 

4     Makit 

20     moxttughlelum, 

5     quinum, 

40     'lakittaghlelum. 

6     tohhurn. 

100     taughlelum  taughlelum. 

7     sinnamox. 

Subjoined  is  some  account  of  the  birds  of  Oregon 
Territory,  which,  however,  are  not  so  numerous  as  those 
which  inhabit  civilized  countries,  probably  because  they 
have  not  access  to  the  grain  and  fruit  of  cultivated  fields, 
and  woods  and  groves  are  not  so  common  a?  in  most  other 
countries.  But  they  are  sufficiently  numerous  to  afford  the 
ornithologist  one  year's  study  and  labor,  and  a  profitable 
opportunity  for  preserving  specimens.  This  region  is  par- 
ticularly interesting  from  the  fact,  that  in  this  as  other  depitrt. 
ments  of  natural  science,  it  has  until  latelv  been  an  unex- 
plored  field,  no  competent  person  having  been  here  to  class^ 
ify  the  different  genera  and  species,  or  to  describe  them  sci. 
cntifically,  before  Mr.  J.  K.  Townsend,  an  ornithologist 
from  Philadelphia,  who  has  spent  two  years  in  this  field, 
and  will  give  to  the  public  the  result  of  his  labors,  and  to 
whom  I  am  indebted  for  assistance  in  the  following  sum- 
mary. 

The  largest  part  of  the  feathered  race  a-e  migratory,  and 
arc  seen  only  a  part  of  the  year ;  there  are  many,  however, 
that  reside  here  during  the  whole  year.  Among  these* are 
the  majestic,  white-headed  eagle,  three  or  four  species  of 


ORNITHOLOGY. 


339 


hawks,  two  species  6i  jay,  the  magpie,  and  thousands  of 
ravens  and  crows ;  several  species  of  small  sparrows,  and 
two  or  three  species  of  grouse,  the  common  partridge  of  the 
United  States,  and  the  dusky  grouse  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains ;  and  also  an  interesting  species  of  the  dipper  or  wa- 
ter ousel.  Its  habits  are  very  curious  and  peculiar,  partic- 
ularly that  of  descending  to  the  bottom  of  ponds  and  swift- 
ly running  streams,  and  there  in  search  of  small  shell  fish, 
remaining  under  water,  for  at  least  two  minutes,  during 
which  time  it  will  course  about  upon  the  pebbly  bottom, 
with  as  much  apparent  ease  and  satisfaction,  as  if  upon' 
dry  land.  The  red  winged  blackbird  and  the  robin  continue 
through  the  year.  The  notes  of  the  latter  are  heard  even 
in  the  chill  of  the  winter,  but  in  feeble  strains. 

As  the  autumn  advances,  the  number  of  swans,  gecsc,  and 
ducks  multiply.  I  have  already  made  mention  of  these  wa- 
ter fowl.  The  black  cormorant  is  common  u\)on  the  river, 
and  tliere  are  other  species  of  the  same  genus,  seen 
about  the  shores  of  the  Cape,  which  do  not  ascend  the  riv- 
ers. The  loon,  or  great  northern  diver,  is  very  plentiful  in 
this  river.  Gulls,  terns,  auks,  and  pctrals,  in  great  num- 
bers, visit  tliis  river  to  seek  shelter  from  the  violent  storms 
"vl'hich  agitate  the  ocean  during  the  winter. 

The  spring,  with  rising  vegetation  and  opening  flowers, 
brings  its  hosts  of  lovely  feathered  tribes,  wliicli  remain  dil 
ferent  periods  of  time  ;  many  of  them  only  a  few  weeks, 
and  then  retire  to  other  parts  for  nidification.  There  are, 
however,  great  numbers  that  remain  through  the  summer,  and 
their  delightful  songs  add  to  the  citarins  of  a  fine  morning' 
of  April  and  May.  Among  these  arc  hundreds  of  warblers, 
wrens,  titmice,  and  nuthatches.  Of  the  warblers  thore  are 
eleven  species,  six  of  which  are  new,  tlie  other  live  are 
common  to  the  States.  Several  of  the  species  are  but  tran- 
sient visitors,  but  the  most  of  them  remain  through  the  sea- 
son.    Of  the  wrens  there  are  six  vspecies  ;  tiiree  of  the  tit. 


.I.;., 
tit."- 


Is;:;; 


Si 


340 


ORNITHOLOr;  V. 


mice  ;  and  two  of  the  nuthatches.  And  in  the  train  fol- 
low the  thrushes,  of  which  tlicre  arc  seven  species,  two  of 
which  are  new;  the  fly  catchers,  numbering  eight  species, 
throe  of  which  arc  new ;  and  tliirtccn  species  of  the  tinch- 
OS  or  sparrows,  three  of  whicli  arc  new.  These  are  a  large 
and  musical  band,  among  which  are  several  of  the  finest 
songsters  known  in  the  world.  The  Wilson's  thrusli  is 
preeminent  in  song  ;  but  in  no  instance  is  there  to  be  seen 
more  richness  and  delicac)^  of  plumage,  with  the  most 
swocl  melody  of  voice,  than  a  new  species  of  a  large  bull, 
tinch,  which  visits  this  section  of  country  in  the  spring. 
If  those  were  domesticated,  they  would  form  a  most  valua- 
ble addition  to  any  aviary.  There  are  eight  species  of 
woodpeckers,  four  of  which  are  new ;  and  of  the  swallow 
tribe  there  are  five  species,  one  of  which  is  new,  which 
I  have  described,  and  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  family. 

I  pass  over  the  mention  of  many  genera  and  still  moro 
numerous  species  of  the  diflerent  birds  of  this  region,  as  it 
is  not  my  design  to  attempt  a  history  of  them,  my  object 
being  only  to  give  a  succinct  sketch,  that  some  idea  may 
be  formed  of  the  ornithological  treasures  of  this  interesting 
country. 


^^ 


DEPARTURE  FOR  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 


341 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


The  voyage  commenced  for  the  Sandwich  islands— passage  in  the  boat 
down  the  river — take  passage  in  the  barque  Columbia— detention  in 
Chenook  bay— arrival  at  the  island— worship  in  the  native  church- 
description  of  Oahu— the  Pari — the  valley  of  Manoa— description  of 
Honolulu — of  Waititi — heathen  temple — Eva — Waialua — Keneohe — 
mountains—salt  lake — geology — natural  productions — animals— gov- 
ernment— tea  party  of  the  royal  family — dinner  to  the  officers  of  the 
Peacock  and  Enterprise — decrease  of  population— unfair  negotiations 
—foreign  residence — charity  school  -seamens'  chapel — burying  place 
of  the  royal  family — missionary  success. 


<Vi  ■.  ■ 


I'l;!..   i 

•"1 .  ^^■■■■ 


I..;--   :,;!.'i     ! 


On  the  18th  of  June^  according  to  previous  arrange- 
ments, I  took  passage  in  the  steam-boat  Beaver,  for  Fort 
George  to  join  the  barque  Columbia  for  the  Sandwich  islands. 
We  had  a  good  passage  down  the  river,  and  anchored  for  the 
night  a  little  above  Tongue  Point ;  and  the  next  day  arrived 
at  the  fort.  I  went  on  shore  on  the  20th,  and  in  an  excursion 
along  the  shores  below,  I  found  some  very  large  petrified 
bivalve  shell,  embedded  in  calcareous  sand  stone  of  the  terti- 
ary formation.  They  are  very  perfect,  and  have  all  the 
lustre  of  living  shells ;  the  largest  which  I  have  as  speci- 
mens, measure  longitudinally  four  inches  and  a  half  from  the 
hinge  and  five  inches  transversely,  beautifully  scalloped. 
For  a  considerable  distance  around  the  location  of  these 
shells,  there  is  no  appearencc  of  volcanic  action.  These, 
with  one  turritella  found  in  the  mountains  south-cast  of 
Vancouver,  were  the  only  petrified  organic  remains  I  saw 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

On  the  21st  we  dropped  down  to  Chenook  Bay,  and  ancii- 

ored  just  above  Cape  Disappointment.     Here,  for  the  want 

of  favorable  wind  and  tide,  we  were  detained  until  llie  28th 
29* 


Ht  I.I 


li"! 


342 


GREAT  CAVE. 


mi 


M':' 


Wlule  we  continued  here,  I  made  several  excursions  on 
shore ;  ascended  the  Cape  which  is  probably  about  four 
hundred  feet  high,  and  from  which  a  fine  prospect  of  the 
Pacific  and  its  shores  is  presented  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  The  shore  is  generally  bold  and  rocky,  furnisiiing 
no  harbor  near.  The  country  around  is  rocky  and  dense- 
ly covered  with  forests,  and  the  scenery  is  wild.  Near  the 
shore  on  the  west  end  of  the  Cape,  there  is  a  large  cave  in 
the  volcanic  rocks,  extending  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  long  and  twenty  {cct  high.  It  seems  to  be  the  haunt 
of  wild  beasts.  Across  the  Cape  upon  the  west  bay,  were 
found  the  finest  flavored  strawberries  of  any  I  ever  tasted  : 
and  about  the  Cape  at  difierent  places  there  were  many  of 
the  new  species  of  large  yellow  raspberry,  which  are  far 
more  inviting  to  the  eye  than  to  the  taste. 

While  we  were  detained  here,  our  men  belonging  to  the 
Columbia  caught  a  large  number  of  codfish.  They  taste 
very  much  like,  and  resemble  those  taken  upon  the  banks  of 
Newfoundland,  excepting  they  are  a  little  shorter.  This  is 
the  first  time  they  were  known  to  exist  in  these  waters : 

1  7 

the  Indians  knew  nothing  of  them  before,  and  eagerly  took 
those  we  did  not  need. 

On  the  25th,  the  bar  being  smooth,  with  only  a  light  wind, 
though  ahead,  and  the  tide  favoring,  the  steam-boat  weigh- 
ed anchor  and  put  out  to  sea  for  a  northern  voyage.  She 
went  over  the  bar  finely,  and  could  have  towed  us  over,  but 
it  being  her  first  experiment,  it  was  not  thought  advisable. 

On  Tuesday,  the  28th,  the  wind  and  tide  were  favorable 
for  passing  the  bar,  and  we  set  sail  at  half  past  three  in  the 
afternoon.  There  was  a  heavy  rolling  sea  ;  and  every  man 
at  his  post,  one  on  each  side  of  the  ship  constantly 
throwing  the  lead  to  take  the  sounding.  Four  fathoms 
and  a  half  was  the  least,  and  this  was  little  enough  consid- 
ering the  heavy  swell.  The  bar  has  a  very  bold  termina- 
tion ;  for  we  passed  from  seven  fathoms  to  no  soundings 


ARRIVAL  AT  OAIIT. 


343 


where  the  sea  presented  its  dark  bhic.  The  land  receded, 
and  in  a  few  hours  it  disappeared ;  and  notliing  was  to  he 
seen  but  one  wide  expanse  of  ocean.  Our  voyage  to  Oaliu,* 
Sandwich  islands,  was  attended  with  nothing  remarkable, 
excepting  it  was  performed  in  much  shorter  time  than  usu- 
al, it  being  only  sixteen  days  from  the  time  we  left  the  Co- 
lumbia river,  to  our  anchoring  in  tlic  roads  of  Honolulu. 
We  took  our  direct  course,  and  kept  it  without  anv  varia- 
tion, and  with  a  few  exceptions  without  shortening  a  sail,  the 
distance  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  miles.  An  almost  en- 
tire uniformity  marked  our  progress,  and  excepting  the 
common  alternations  of  day  and  night,  sun^shine  and  clouds, 
nothing  interrupted  the  monotony  of  the  scene. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th  of  July,  land  was  announc- 
ed. The  islands  of  Ranai  and  Morakai  were  near,  and  as 
we  passed  them,  we  had  a  near  view  of  the  latter.  It  is 
not  so  mountainous  as  most  of  the  others  of  the  group,  and 
presented  rather  a  sterile  aspect.  We  soon  after  made 
Oahu,  and  passed  on  the  east  side  around  to  the  harbor  of 
Honolulu  on  the  south.  This  harbor  is  the  best  and  almost 
the  only  good  one  in  any  of  the  groups  of  the  Polynesian 
islands.  The  entrance  is  somewhat  intricate,  and  requires 
an  experienced  pilot  to  take  ships  in  safely.  Within  the 
eoral  reefs  the  water  is  sufficiently  deep  for  ships  of  almost 
any  magnitude  ;  and  this,  with  the  long  extended  roads 
without  the  reefs  which  affords  good  anchorage,  renders  the 
port  desirable,  and  the  island,  in  a  commercial  point  of 
view,  the  most  important  of  any  in  this  part  of  the  Pacific 
ocean. 

We  went  on  shore  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  I 
was  invited  by  Rev.  H.  Bingham  to  his  house,  where  I  met 


..i: ■ 


''I, 
ill 


tti' 


111. 


t'ii: 


fjl 


♦  Pronounced  Wauhoo. 


I. 


344 


DESCEIl'TION  OF  OAIIU. 


I 


^'■1 


n 


several  of  the  other  missionaries,  and  felt  much  rejoiced  to 
behold  again  a  christian  community. 

The  heat  of  a  vertical  sun  was  very  oppressive  and  en- 
ervating, and  w^as  it  not  for  the  refreshing  effects  of  the  dai- 
ly  north-east  trade  winds,  it  would  be  insupportable  by  a 
northern  constitution. 

On  sabbath  17th,  I  attended  worship  in  the  native  church, 
and  heard  Rev.  Mr.  Bingham  preach  in  the  Hawaiian  lan- 
guage to  a  very  large  assembly  of  natives,  probably  two 
thousand  five  hundred,  who  gave  very  good  attention.  They 
were  all  decently  dressed,  while  some  of  them  were  in  the 
European  mode,  the  most  of  them  were  dressed  in  their  na- 
tive costume,  and  made  a  good  appearance.  Their  conduct 
and  attention  were  very  becoming,  and  many  listened  with 
deep  interest.  Madam  Kinau,  the  queen  regent,  and  the 
royal  family,  were  present ;  and  although  it  was  easy  to 
distinguish  them  from  the  common  people,  yet  they  made 
no  ostentatious  display  of  royalty.  Their  dress  was  rich 
but  plain,  and  they  paid  sober  attention  to  the  worship  of 
God.  The  performance  of  the  singers  was  good,  but  there 
was  not  that  melody  in  their  voices  which  characterizes  the 
Indians. 

The  house  of  worship  is  large  and  commodious,  one 
hundred  and  ninety  feet  long  and  sixty-two  feet  wide,  built 
ir  the  native  style,  a  large  frame,  with  the  roof  and  sides 
covered  with  thatch. 

Oahu  is  the  most  northern  of  the  Sandwich  islands,  sit- 
uated in  north  latitude  21°  18'  and  in  west  longitude  158° 
38'.  Its  greatest  length  is  forty-five  miles  from  Koka  on 
the  south  east  to  Kakana  on  the  north-west.  The  great- 
est portion  of  the  island  is  on  the  north-east  of  this  line. 
Its  greatest  breadth  is  twenty-eight  miles  from  Kahuku  on 
the  north  to  Laeloa  (Barber's  Point)  on  the  south ;  about 
four-fifths  of  the  island  is  on  the  east  of  this  line.  The 
island  is  very  mountainous  ;  the  highest  eminence  is  called 


THE  PARI. 


34.> 


(joiced  tc 

J  and  en- 
)f  the  dai- 
ible  by  a 

ire  church, 
aiian  lan- 
)ably  two 
on.  They 
sre  in  the 
1  their  na- 
ir  conduct 
;ened  with 
t,  and  the 
is  easy  to 
hey  made 
was  rich 
worship  of 
,  but  there 
terizes  the 

Uous,  one 
tvide,  built 
and  sides 

lands,  sit. 

tude  158° 
Koka  on 

'he  great- 
this  line, 
ahuku  on 
th ;  about 
ne.  The 
e  is  called 


Honahunnui,  and  is  a  little  over  four  thousand  fuot.  Tlio 
Pari,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  of  JNuiiann,  north  of 
Honolulu,  may  be  counted  anion jj  the  curiosities  of  the  is- 
land^  principally  on  account  of  its  being  a  part  of  the 
main  road,  or  rather  the  only  one  to  Kcncolio.  It  is  one  thou- 
sand  one  hundred  and  tbrty  feet  al)ovo  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  six  hundred  feet  nearly  jwrpendicular.  This  is  to  be 
clambered  up  and  down  in  passing  from  Honolulu  to  Kene- 
ohe,  and  to  a  stranger  it  is  a  fearful  undertaking,  it  being 
necessar}'  to  have  a  native  to  assist  in  pultini;  your  feet  in- 
to  the  crevices  of  the  rocks.  And  yet  tiie  natives  j)ass  up 
and  down  with  their  calabashes  of  'poi,  with  their  loails  of 
melons,  iish,  and  other  commodities,  without  any  lilfu  ully 
more  than  fatigue. 

Some  years  ago,  in  a  war  between  Taniaehameha  and 
the  J.ing  of  Oahu,  the  final  battle  was  fought  here  which 
decided  the  fate  of  the  island.  The  king  of  Oahu  made  a 
desperate  struggle  ;  and  one  part  of  his  routed  army,  mo  '; 
than  three  hundred,  were  pursued  to  this  precipice,  fbi  c- 
ed  down,  and  almost  all  were  dashed  to  pieces. 

On  each  side  of  this  pass,  needle  pointed  mountains  rise 
up  two  thousand  feet  forming  a  narrow  chasm,  through 
which  the  north-east  trade  winds  rush  with  great  violence. 
Before  you,  at  the  north,  you  have  a  very  pleasing  view  of 
the  fertile  valley  of  Kolou  ;  and  beyond  is  a  fiue  prospect 
of  the  bay  and  wide  spread  ocean.  The  valley  between 
the  Pari  and  Honolulu  is  seven  miles  long  ;  th.  upper  part 
of  wiiich  is  narrow  and  very  picturesque.  Inler-.sting  cas- 
cades  are  seen  dashing  down  the  almost  perpendicular  moun- 
tains, and  the  whole  scenery  is  covered  wiUi  fresh  folia<je. 
This  was  almost  the  only  place  where  the  cool  and  invigo- 
rating breezes  gave  me  relief  from  the  oppressive  heat. 
The  lower  part  of  the  valley  is  wide,  and  covered  to  a  great 
extent  with  tare  patches. 

Tare  is  a  bulbous  plant  of  the  genus  arum,  and  is  planted 


i.:  :'< 


iM  •■:, 


■•  1 


346 


VALLEY  OF  MANOA. 


in  hills  upon  patches  of  ground,  so  formed,  as  to  be  partial- 
ly  flooded  with  water,  somewhat  after  the  manner  of  culti- 
vating  rice.  In  eight  or  ten  months  after  setting  the  plants, 
it  is  fit  for  use.  To  prepare  it  for  food,  it  is  always  neccs. 
sary  to  roast  it,  to  take  out  the  pungency  which  is  common 
to  the  genus,  as  found  in  the  wild  tiirnip.  It  is  frequently 
eaten  for  bread  with  no  other  preparation  except  roasting; 
or  it  is  made  into  poi  by  pulverizing  and  making  it  into  a 
stiff*  {>astc.  The  natives  prefer  the  poi  when  soured  by  fer- 
mentation. 

East  of  this  valley  is  another  called  Manoa,  about  five  miles 
in  length,  running  north  from  Diamond  Hill.  It  is  well 
watered  by  streams  descending  from  the  mountains,  formed 
by  showers  of  rain  which  frequently  fall  upon  them,  and 
which  sometimes  extend  to  the  valleys  and  plains.  Its  fer- 
tile soil  is  well  cultivated  with  sweet  potatoes,  taro,  and 
melons.  At  the  upper  end,  Kaahumanu,  the  late  queen  re- 
gent,  who  died  in  1832,  had  a  house  built  for  retirement 
from  the  bustle  of  Honolulu,  and  for  d(  votion,  near  a  beau- 
tiful  cool  grove  of  ohia  and  kukui  trees,*  on  an  eminence 
commanding  a  view  of  the  valley  below.  Near  this  dwell- 
ing, she  caused  a  house  to  be  built  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  missionaries,  when  they  should  wish  for  rest,  and  to 
be  refreshed  with  the  invigorating  air  of  the  mountains. 
The  evidences  of  her  christian  character  were  convincing. 
Her  piety  was  active.  She  traveled  thn>u;;h  all  iln'  islands, 
from  lime  to  time,  to  see  that  the  j)e()ple  attended  the  means 
of  religions  instruction,  an<l  the  schools  ;  and  to  reconj- 
mend  the  religion  of  the  IJiblo  to  all  classes  of  her  s»d)j(;cts. 
Her  e\am|)le,  as  well  as  her  authority,  was  powerful  in  sup. 
pressing  intemperance,  and  tin;  niany  vices  which  threaten- 
ed the  ruin  of  her  country.      Her  influence   was   le!t  not 


♦  Tli<>  kiikiii  tPX'  Items  a  mil  as  larpri'  ns  n  liliu-k    waliiui,   a  stniijj  el 
which  is  \\9{<l  for  cundkf,  and  hciuo  the  irco  is  culled  the  candle  tree. 


HONOLULU. 


■Ml 


only  by  her  own  peoplo,  but  also  by  foreigners   wlio   visited 
timso  iwhinds. 

VViicn  I  visited  this  spot  of  remembrances,  the  buildings 
were  far  gon(^  to  decay ;  but  not  the  ehcrished  regard  of 
her  piety  and  philanthropy.  This  spot  presenliul  a  very 
pleasing  view  of  the  high  and  precipitous  mountains  around 
on  every  side;  excepting  the  south,  which  is  open  and  ex- 
iiibits  the  grandeur  of  the  rolling  ocean.  The  many  cas. 
cades  around  upon  the  mountainsides  added  to  the  interest 
of  the  scenery.  Among  the  variety  of  sluubbery,  we  found 
the  coHeo  tre(^  with  its  fruit  in  various  stages  of  maturity  ; 
the  arrow  r(»ol  ;  v.ml  the  brake  tern  growing,  in  many  in- 
stances,  to  the  height  of  twenty  Ibet.  From  a  bidb,  near 
the  root,  is  taken  what  the  natives  call  hapuii,  a  silky  down, 
which  makes  excellent  beds  and  cusiiions. 

Honolulu  is  situat(!d  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  on  a 
bay  of  tin;  same  name,  and  is  the  capital  and  business  j)lacc 
of  all  the  islands.  The  land  around  and  on  whicii  the  village 
is  located  is  a  dry  barren,  excepting  on  the  north. west, 
which  is  moist  and  cultivated  with  taro  j)atches,  with  some 
cocoanut  trees  interspersed.  The  buildings  generally  are 
in  the  native  style,  thatched;  n)any  are  built  with  (lobn 
walls  after  the  s|)anisb  manner  on  the  coast  of  Mexico  and 
Peru,  that  is,  with  large  sun  burnt  bricks  male  about  two 
teet  long,  eighteen  inches  wide,  and  ten  inches  thick.  The 
clay  u  njixed  with  cut  .siraw  to  strengthen  thoiu,  alter  t\u) 
manner  of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  Their  enclosures  are 
built  in  the  same  manner.  There  are  several  good  build. 
ings  made  of  rock  coral  in  I'lnglisb  slyle,  some  of  which  arc 
spacious  and  well  finished.  The  village  contains  about  nine 
thousand  inlmbitants,  three  hundred  of  whom  arc  English 
and  Americans.  Most  of  the  commercial  business  and 
trade  are  carried  on  by  foreigners,  which  is  of  large  amount, 
increased  by  the  resort  of  whale  ohips,  fall  and  spring,  for 
repairs  aud  fresh  supplies,  particularly  vi^getablos  j  it  is  the 


;U8 


oLn  1I^^VT^K^'  Tinfri.r, 


■t^l^^ 


m"':' 


i'k 


pliici!  al  uliirli  all  uihcr  ^lii|)|>iii!r  <»>iicli  which  na\i|Titt(>i 
tills  ccoati  lV<nu  i'iUr»>i><' ;:!i>l  At:i'.Ti«"a  in  tht^  ChiiicM;  ;iinl 
ICast  fndia  frr.ic.  'i'his  place  is  ccmslaiilly  f^rowing  in  im. 
|M»rtan<'(',  and  niiisl  roiiiiiiuc  to  (Ij)"o  iVoui  i(s  local  a<lv;m. 


la^i's. 

I'onr  iniirs  sonlh-cast  of  Iloiiohihi  is  (he  pleasant  nutivc 
\  ilhi^o  oT  VVailili,  sllualcd  on  the  hay  of  tlic  .^aiiio  name. 
Il  «'(inlai!'.s  Jive  or  .six  hiinch'cd  inhal»ilanls,  is  siluatcd  in  a 
hcaiililul  <rn)v<«  nl*  roccanut  ttci  s,  which  adds  very  much  to 
ils  a{>pcarcncc  and  ctjnjfort.  'I'liis  phw"/,  if  the  cidlivulion 
was  pro|)orlion<Ml  lo  the  riclincss  of  the  soil,  nii^ht  !)«;  iiia<I«' 
one  oi   the  most  deii^litriil  spots  on  the  island. 

Ahonl  two  nulcs  cast  of  this  villa«io  arc  the  n mains  ol' 
an  t»ld  heathen  temple,  in  which  human  sacritices  were  of. 
terctl  ;  a  part  of  the  walls  ol'  the  enchisure  arc  still  stand, 
in^.  Various  methods  w<"rc  employed  to  ohtain  victims. 
()?UM)f  which  was  to  lay  a  tabu  upon  all  the  people  in  the 
whole  region  around,  that  no  one  lor  a  <'tMtain  j)eriod  of 
time  slundd  ^o  out  of  their  «lw(>llin^s,  or  mal\(^  any  tiro  in 
them,  upon  pain  of  death.  If  any  violated  the  lahn,  they 
w(U'e  a|>preht<nded  and  sa<'rilic(Hl  to  their  idols.  If  they 
wen;  unsuc«'i'ssfid  ill  ohtainin^  victims  in  this  wav,  tht'y 
would  sriu\  out  men  in  a  canoe,  to  ranjj(»  alou;^  hetwocn  the 
coral  HH'f  and  the  shore,  iind  to  fei(;n  tlistrcss,  and  if  any 
were  decoyed  out  tor  their  relief,  they  were  appreiicnded, 
and  carried  to  the  temj)Ie.  and  olfercd  in  sacrilice. 

It  is  a  pleasin«i^  consideration,  that  the  heni^n  influence 
of  the  gospel  has  dispelletl  these  IiUmkIv  and  cruel  Hupersti- 
lions  of  heathenism.  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  an 
old  man  >vho  had  l)ccn  a  hi«rh  priest  in  these  bloody  rites. 
He  has  no  hope  that  be  is  interested  in  the  salvation  of  the 
pospel,  but  he  ^aid  it  iamaitai.  (;j;ood.)  and  that  the  christian 
reliirion  is  so  firmlv  established  in  these  islands,  that  their 
ancient  idolatry  can  never  ajrain  be  revived.  He  salute<l 
ine  with  many  alohas.     Mr.  Bins;liam  gave  liiiii  some  nc 


WAIAUIA. 


n4» 


H«i 


I'.avifiulr 


incsc  ;viiil 
iiig  in  iiu- 
;il  ailviin- 


II nl  niitivc 
mo  nMnu\ 
uiiU'd  in  ;i 
v  nuu'h  to 
iMillivutlon 
it  be  niiul'3 

i( mains   of 
'S   wvvv.  *»t- 
Htill  stan<l- 
in  viclinw. 
jple  in   the 
I  period  of 
any  tiro  in 
talin,  they 
.     If  they 
way,  thoy 
Lot  ween  the 
and  ir  nny 
l)|)rehcndcd, 

^1  inllucnce 
ul  siipersti- 
seeing  nn 

loody  rites. 

It  ion  ot*  the 

|»e  <-lnisti«n 
that  tlieir 
|Hg  sahitod 
li  some  ac- 


count of  xuy  journey  across  the  Roeky  mountniuH  and  tho 
object,  lie  said  it  was  *to<k1,  and  that  (iod  wan  with  nr»c 
and  |)reH(M'V(!d  me.  He  Haid  in  their  former  rehpion,  they 
were  ail  ignorant — all  was  darkness,  entire  darkness,  but 
now  the  light  shim^s.  He  said,  that  when  ('aptain  Van- 
couver visited  tUv.sc.  islands  in  the  reign  of  Taniaha,  he  urg- 
ed the  king  to  nmotmce  idolatry,  and  the  king  promised  he 
would,  when  christians  would  s<;nd  from  the  land  of  light, 
u  minister  to  teach  them  in  the  right  way.  They  waited 
until  their  king  died  without  knowing  the  right  way,  and  no 
<tne  cani(! — and  none  came  until  Mr.  Itingham  and  his  as- 
sociativa in  th(5  year  lH2(h  This  okl  heathen  priest  gave 
up  his  religion  and  his  honors,  and  took  Mr.  B.  by  the  hand 
«>n  his  first  arrival,  and  called  him  brother,  and  has  ever 
since  lieen  friendly  to  the  missionaries.  His  wife,  whom  I 
also  saw.  has  a  hope  that  she  has  experienced  the  saving 
power  of  the  gospel. 

The  only  road,  or  any  thing  which  deserves  the  name  of 
a  road  in  this  island,  is  l)e^ween  VVaititi  and  Honolulu. 

Fourteen  miles  west  of  Honolulu  is  l*'iva,*a  village  of  con- 
siderable magnitude,  hut  not  very  compact.  It  is  situated 
on  Pearl  river,  at  th(5  head  of  a  large  lagoon,  extending  sev- 
eral miles  inland,  and  is  surrounded  with  a  fertile  valley 
reaching  twelve  miles  north,  which  is  two. thirds  of  thedin- 
Uinr.r  to  Waialua.  The  highest  elevation  b(«tween  these 
places  is  about  four  hundred  feet,  and  is  intersected  in  va- 
rious p!H<;es  with  deep  ravines.  Eva  is  the  station  which 
Rev.  Artemtis  Bishop  and  wife*  occupy,  and  whosti  prowpects 
of  usefulness  are  encouraging.  VVIien  I  was  (here,  thi;  na- 
tives were  engu;];ed  in  building  a  substantial  and  commodi. 
ous  hous(}  ui'  worship,  aiui  appeared  to  take  a  deep  interest 
in  the  ellbrt. 


•1 1 . 

i  •:; 

t ! 

t : . . 


•Pronouncwi  Ava. 
30 


350 


KENEHOE. 


y^ 


In  the  north-west  part  of  the  island,  is  the  village  of 
Waialua,  where  Rev.  John  S.  Emerson  and  wife  are  sta- 
tioned. The  village  is  situated  upon  a  wide  spread  bay, 
which  would  furnish  an  excellent  harbor  for  any  shipping, 
if  there  was  sufficient  water  upon  the  bar  at  the  entrance. 
The  valley  around  is  large  and  fertile,  capable  of  being 
made  very  productive.  On  a  sabbath  which  I  spent  here, 
eight  natives,  six  men  and  two  women,  were  received  into 
tlie  communion  of  the  church,  who  appeared  very  intelli. 
gent  and  serious,  and  who  conducted  with  as  much  propri- 
cty  as  is  seen  in  the  most  civilized  parts  of  the  world.  I 
felt  a  satisfaction  in  joining  with  these  redeemed  heathen 
in  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's  supper.  Every  part  of  di- 
vine  service  was  conducted  with  christian  decorum.  I  was 
particularly  pleased  with  the  appearance  of  the  native  deii- 
con,  who  was  dignified  in  his  person,  dressed  in  good  taste, 
and  very  devotional  in  his  liehavior. 

The  only  remaining  village  of  any  considerable  impor- 
tance  is  Keneohe,  where  Rev.  Benjamin  W.  Parker  and 
wife  are  stationed.  This  village  is  in  the  fertile  valley  of 
Kolou,  near  the  shore  of  a  pleasant  bay,  which  would  af- 
ford an  excellent  harbor  if  there  was  sufficient  water  at  the 
entrance  over  the  coral  bar.  This  village  is  about  four 
miles  north  of  the  Pari,  and  is  the  most  cool  and  refreshing 
retrea-  I  found  upon  the  island.  The  basaltic  mountain 
on  the  south,  three  thousand  feet  high,  and  nearly  vertical ; 
and  the  north-cast  trade  winds  give  a  temperate  atmos- 
phere, not  found  in  any  other  part  of  tiic  island  sufficient- 
ly low  for  a  village. 

Mountains.  Tiie  greatest  part  of  the  island  is  moun- 
tainous, two  are  of  considerable  magnitude.  The  largest, 
Koanahumanni,  is  on  the  cast  side,  and  runs  parallel  witii 
the  ocean  ;  the  highest  part  of  which  is  four  thousand  feet 
above  tlic  level  of  the  sea.  This  range  of  mountains  is 
without  many  cones,  is  very  pointed,  and  has  several  pa- 


;  ■»-.!-■  ' 


SALT  LAKE. 


351 


village  of 
;  are  sta- 
read  bay, 
shipping, 
entrance. 
1  of  being 
ipent  here, 
leived  into 
3ry  intelli- 
ich  propri- 
world.     I 
ed  heathen 
part  of  di- 
•um.   I  was 
native  den- 
good  taste, 

able  impor- 
Parker  and 
le  valley  of 
h  would  af- 
water  at  the 
about  four 
id  refreshing 
I   mountain 
ily  vertical ; 
rate  atrnos- 
sufticicnt- 

id  is  moun- 

The  largest, 

urallcl  with 

lousand  feet 

lountains  is 

several  pa- 


ries. At  the  great  Pari,  the  upper  end  of  Nuuanu,  the 
main  chain  turns  to  the  west,  and  terminates  towards 
Waialua.  The  north  side  of  the  range,  west  of  the  Pari, 
is  very  precipitous,  having  many  spurs  projecting  to  the 
north,  including  deep,  pit-like  ravines.  The  other  range  is 
on  the  west  part  of  the  island,  called  Kaala,  running  north 
and  south,  separating  Waianae  on  the  west,  from  the  val- 
ley of  Eva  on  the  east.  The  highest  point  is  three  thou- 
sand eight  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  There  are  many  conical 
hills  of  different  magnitudes  in  various  parts  of  the  island, 
which  evidently  were  ancient  craters  ;  one  six  miles  south, 
cast  of  Honolulu,  called  Diamond  Hill ;  and  another  a 
short  distance  north  of  H.  called  Fort  Hill.  They  are  open 
and  concave  at  the  top,  with  high  walls,  reeded  down  the 
sides,  wiiicli  appear  to  have  been  formed  by  streams  of 
lava,  and  by  tiie  action  of  water,  cutting  ravines.  There  is 
an  abundance  of  lava  and  other  volcanic  productions  about 
theso  liills. 

The  salt  lake,  four  miles  west  of  H.  is  of  the  crateric 
form.  It  is  a  great  curiosity,  as  well  as  source  of  trade. 
It  undoubtedly  has  a  connection  with  the  ocean,  near  which 
it  is  situated,  by  some  subterrineous  passage.  Its  depth  is 
not  known,  being  nearly  filled  with  excellent  crystalized 
salt.  The  quantity  is  immense,  and  is  taken  out  in  large 
quantities  for  sale.  The  appearance  of  the  lake  is  like  be- 
ing covered  with  ice,  a  little  sunken  below  the  surface  of 
the  water. 

Cieolocv.  Tlio  ffcoloiiical  formation  of  this  island  and 
all  tiic  (tihcrs  in  (lie  Pacific  wliich  I  saw,  and  concerning 
which  I  obtained  information,  arc  volcanic  and  coralino  to 
a  great  extent.  What  some  have  supposed,  is  very  much 
to  bo  (k)ubted,  that  theso  islands  have  been  thrown  up  in 
the  first  place  by  int(»rnal  iires,  and  then  enlarged  by  coral- 
ine  additions.  Tli(?re  is  too  much  argillaceous  soil  to  favor 
the  Iwlief ;  and  to  say  the  least,  the  supposition  is  without 


;  '1.; 


.  I'  > 

■  I '. 
'  1 1 


(  ' 


,!■;; 


M^ 


362 


PBODUCTIONS. 


& 


IM 


the  least  evidence  more  Ihan  what  theorizing  men  invent. 
Much  of  the  soil  is  formed  by  disintegrated  and  decomposed 
lava.  The  reefs  lying  off  from  the  shores,  and  in  some 
places  immediately  upon  them,  are  coral.  The  coralines 
are  divided  into  ancient  and  modern ;  the  latter  still  in. 
creasing.  Between  these  formations  is  a  volcanic  deposit. 
The  ancient  cora'ines  are  found  in  many  places  forming 
the  surface  of  the  plains,  elevated  some  six  or  eight  feet 
above  the  present  level  of  the  sea.  As  the  polypi,  which 
form  coral,  never  work  above  water,  it  is  evident  that  these 
islands  have  been  elevated  bv  some  subterranean,  or  subma- 
rine  power,  or  the  ocean  is  subsiding ;  and  as  this  recession 
of  the  ocean  is  seen  in  various  parts  of  the  world,  in  near- 
ly, if  not  the  same  degree,  is  it  not  probable  that  the  wa- 
ters of  the  ocean  are  gradually  diminishing  ?  Of  the  mod- 
em  coral,  there  are  many  grades,  from  the  rock  to  the  most 
beautiful  kinds  resembling  trees  and  plants,  and  of  various 
colors.  The  volcanic  formations  do  not  differ  materially 
from  those  in  Oregon  Territory.  Cellular  lava  is  very 
common,  often  bordering  upon  pumice,  and  of  various  co- 
lors ;  brick  red,  ash  colored,  orange  yellow,  and  green.  No 
primitive  rocks  are  found,  nor  any  silicious  sand  ;  the  sand 
upon  the  shores  being  formed  of  either  disintegrated  lava, 
scoria,  or  coral. 

While  I  shall  not  attempt  a  minute  enumeration  of  the 
productions  of  these  islands,  the  following  arc  some  of  the 
principal :  viz.  Cocoanut  tree ;  bread  fruit ;  coa  tree, 
which  furnishes  lumber  nearly  equal  to  mahogany ;  hybis- 
cus,  candle  nut  tree,  nuiiberry,  fig  tree,  cotton  tree  of  very 
fine  quality  ;  coflee  tree,  grape  vines,  oranges,  lemons,  limes, 
pine  apples,  mellons  of  superior  quality,  sqiuishes,  sugar 
cane,  arrow  root ;  indigo  plant,  wliich  grows  finely  without 
any  care  ;  tlie  gudva,  a  fruit  resembling  mandrakes,  but  not 
80  agreeable  to  the  taste  of  those  not  unaccustomed  to  them  ; 
taro,  swt  *  and  common  potatoes*  banana,  a  great  variety  of 


ANIMALS — GOVERNMENT. 


353 


I  invent. 

lomposed 

in  some 

coralines 

still  in- 
J  deposit. 

forming 
;ight  feet 
pi,  which 
that  these 
or  subma- 

recession 
1,  in  near- 
t  the  wa- 
f  the  mod- 
o  the  most 
of  various 
materially 
a  IS   very 
arious  co- 

reen.  No 
,  the  sand 
latcd  lava, 

lion  of  the 

)nie  of  the 

coa    tree, 

jy;  Kvbis- 

le  of  very 
|ons,  limes, 
hos,  sugar 
lly  without 

;s,  hut  not 
to  them  ; 

ivarictv  of 


terns ;  a  great  variety  of  most  beautiful  flowering  plants, 
such  as  the  oriental  lilac,  eight  different  species  of  mimosu  ; 
the  pride  of  Barbadoes,  several  varieties  of  convolvulus,  and 
mirabihs,  passiflora  or  passion  flower;  roses,  Spanish  pink, 
Mexican  pea,  and  many  others  of  beautiful  texture  ;  also 
garden  vegetables  of  various  sorts. 

The  animals  of  these  islands,  when  discovered  by  Cap- 
tain Cook  were  very  few ;  the  most  of  those  now  found  up- 
on  them  have  been  introduced  since.  There  are  now,  the 
horse,  the  mule,  neat  cattle,  goats,  hogs,  dogs  ;  fowl,  a  few 
birds ;  and  among  the  few  the  crow  and  raven,  which  are 
common  in  almost  all  parts  of  the  world,  have  not  found  their 
way  hero.  There  are  but  very  few  reptiles ;  not  any 
snakes  ;  ])ut  tiic  green  lizzard  is  very  common,  and  was  in 
the  days  of  the  idolatry  of  the  Islanders  worshipped,  and 
such  is  the  influence  of  superstition  upon  the  human  mind, 
that  thoy  can  hardly  dismiss  all  feelings  of  reverence  tor 
this  insignificant  reptile.  If  one  comes  into  their  dwellings, 
they  clioose  to  lot  it  take  its  own  departure  rather  than  to 
molest  it.  The  scorpion  and  centiped  have  within  a  very 
few  years  fbtmd  their  way  here  by  vessels.  The  musque- 
toe  was  not  known  here  until  recently,  and  now  they  are 
numeroi's  and  very  annoying. 

The  government  of  these  islands  is  absolute  and  heredi. 
tary,  administered  by  the  king,  queen,  and  chiets,  whose 
will  is  the  supremo  law ;  the  common  people  are  a  nation 
of  slaves.  The  lands  belong  to  the  government,  and  are 
leased  to  the  people  at  high  rents,  and  even  then  the  peoj)le 
have  no  security,  that  they  shall  enjoy  the  avails  of  their 
labor  ;  for  beside  the  stipulated  rents,  the  government  make 
any  additional  demands  they  please,  and  the  people  are 
taugiit  to  ol)ey  without  complaining.  The  persons  of  the 
chiefs,  are  remarkable  for  their  extraordinary  size,  lower- 
ing quite  above  the  height  of  the  conmion  people,  and  in 

corpulencv  preserving  corresponding  dimensions.  The  king 
30* 


ri. ' 


f  !■  ■ 


I  !•■;' 


i  iM 


■J  ■ 


I  II  ■' 

I    I:. 


,  i  ■ 


el 


I    I. 


'.  (• 


354 


TEA  PARTY DOG  FEAST. 


secures  his  house  and  person  by  life  guards.  Very  frequent- 
ly on  a  Saturday  morning  the  queen  regent,  attended  by 
her  train  and  servants  in  equestrian  style,  visits  her  garden 
aome  two  miles  from  Honolulu.  Their  appearance  is  fine 
and  they  are  well  skilled  in  horsemanship.  Her  ordinary 
mode  of  riding  in  the  street  is  in  a  small,  low-wheel  car 
riage  drawn  by  twenty  servants.  The  Sandwich  islanders, 
or  kanakas,  as  the  common  people  are  called,  have  less  ac- 
tivity of  body  and  mind  than  the  Indians  of  our  continent, 
and  yet  a  phrenologist  would  say  that  their  intellectual  pow- 
ers are  well  developed.  In  their  present  political  condition, 
they  are  not  expected  to  be  otherwise  than  indolent  and  im- 
provident. In  their  dress,  mode  of  living,  and  habitations 
generally,  they  have  made  but  little  advance  upon  their  days 
of  heathenism ;  some  in  the  interior,  especially,  wearing  lit- 
tle more  clothing  than  their  maro,  and  having  their  dwell- 
ings in  caverns  in  volcanic  rocks.  This  however  is  not 
true  of  many ;  for  the  chiefs,  and  some  of  the  people,  have 
good  houses,  dress  in  good  fashion,  and  live  comfortably. 
The  king,  queen  regent,  and  chiefs  gave  a  tea  party,  to 
Avhich  with  a  few  others  I  had  the  honor  to  be  invited. 
They  were  dressed  richly  and  in  good  taste  ;  their  table 
was  splendidly  arrayed  with  silver  plate  and  china ;  the  en- 
tertainment  was  both  judiciously  and  tastefully  arranged 
and  prepared,  and  all  the  etiquette  and  ceremony  of  such 
occasions  was  observed.  The  conversation  was  cheerful 
and  intelligent,  without  frivolity,  and  nothing  occurred  em- 
barrassing to  any  one.  At  a  suitable  early  hour,  we  were 
invited  into  a  saloon  w  ell  furnished,  where,  after  a  perform- 
ancc  of  music,  both  vocal  and  instrumental,  the  queen  pro- 
posed that  prayer  should  conclude  our  agreeable  visit ; 
which  was  done,  and  the  company  retired.  I  have  seen 
but  few  parties  in  christian  America  conducted  more  on  the 
principles  of  rationality  and  religion. 
An  entertainment,  however,  is  sometimes  transacted  in  a 


=i^ 


DECREASE  OP  POPULATION. 


355 


frequent- 
ended  by 
cr  garden 
ice  is  fine 
•  ordinary 
vheel  car 
.  islanders, 
^e  less  ac- 
continent, 
ctual  pow- 
condition, 
nt  and  im- 
labitations 
their  days 
/earing  lit- 
heir  dvvell- 
jver  is  not 
eople,  have 
jmfortably. 
party,  to 
le   invited. 
;heir  table 
[la ;  the  en- 
arranged 
ly  of  such 
s  cheerful 
currcd  em- 
,  we  were 
a  perform- 
Iquecn  pro- 
lable  visit ; 
have  seen 
iiorc  on  the 

Isacted  in  a 


different  style  by  some  of  our  countrymen  and  other  for- 
eigners in  those  islands.  A  dog-feast,  as  it  is  there  called,  was 
given  by  foreign  resident  gentlemen,  on  the  20th  of  Sept. 
at  the  country  seat  of  the  American  consul,  in  honor  of  the 
officers  of  the  American  squadron,  the  Peacock  and  Enter- 
prise, then  in  the  harbor  of  Honolulu.  I  extract  from  the 
account  published  in  the  the  Sandwich  Island  Gazette  as  de- 
scribed at  the  time.  "  Food  in  native  style  was  bountiful- 
ly served  up — baked  dog  was  among  the  dishes,  and  it  was 
not  to  be  despised.  Songs,  toasts,  cheers,  bumpers,  and 
speeches  all  came  in  their  t'lrn.     Among  the  toasts  were, 

'  Commodore   our  commodore  J*    Commodore's  reply, 

*  May  you  all  live  a  thousand  years,  and  may  we  always 

meet  here.'  Doctor of  the  United  States  ship  Peacock. 

^Population  and  prosperity  to  the  Sandwich  islands,  and  an 
end  to  all  oppressive  tabus  J*  The  party  separated  teeming 
with  good  spirits." 

The  population  of  these  islands  has  been  decreasing  ever 
since  an  acquaintance  has  been  had  with  them.  Captain 
Cook  estimated  the  people  at  400,000.  The  present  popu- 
lation  is  about  110  thousand.  A  variety  of  causes  have 
conspired  to  bring  about  this  declension,  and  yet  no  one  so 
prominent  above  the  rest,  as  wholly  to  satisfy  enquiry.  It 
is  acknowledged  l)y  all  observers,  and  it  has  become  evi- 
dent  to  the  government  itself,  that  a  change  of  things  in 
the  internal  structure  of  their  national  affairs,  is  nccessa- 
ry  to  the  prosperity  of  tiie  people.  During  my  stay  at 
Oahu,  tlie  heads  of  the  nation  had  frequent  meetings  to  dis- 
cuss  the  subject  of  reform  and  improvement,  and  to  adopt 
some  new  mode  of  administration  which  will  give  to  the 
people  the  privileges  of  freemen,  and  tliercby  stimulate  them 
to  industry.  To  eflect  this,  tlic  lands  must  be  distributed 
among  the  people ;  a  more  equal  mode  of  taxation  must  be 
adopted;  industry  must  be  encouraged,  and  progressive 
prosperity  will  follow  in  train. 


I'm' 


i'lr 


.lii 


\\'' 


I     ! 


356 


UNFAIR  NEGOTIATION. 


I 


The  perpetuity  of  the  independence  of  this  nation,  and 
with  it  their  existence,  is  very  problematical.  A  disposition 
to  possess  these  islands,  has  evidently  been  manifested  by 
foreign  powers.  Whether  the  paw  of  the  lion,  or  the  tal- 
ons of  the  eagle,  shall  first  make  them  its  prey,  or  whether 
they  shall  be  mutual  checks  upon  each  other,  and  thus  pro- 
long  the  life  of  this  feeble  nation,  is  not  known.  The  man- 
ner  in  wh:  zh  the  king  and  chiefs  are  often  treated  by  the 
officers  of  foreign  nations,  the  insults  they  often  meet  with, 
would  not  pass  with  impunity  from  a  more  powerful  people. 
In  fair  and  honorable  negociations,  regard  is  had  to  mutual 
rigiits,  but  here  foreigners  assume  the  style  of  dictation ; 
"You  shall,  and  you  shall  not;" — and  assertions  are  made 
of  things  existing  in  the  laws  and  practices  of  England  and 
America,  which  neither  government  would  tolerate.  Lord 
Russel,  the  commander  of  the  Acteon,  a  British  man  of  war, 
obtained  tlic  signature  to  a  certain  instrument,  by  assuring 
the  Hawaiian  government,  tiiat  if  they  refused  any  longer  to 
sign  it,  he  vi^ould  order  all  the  English  vessels  to  leave  the 
harbor,  and  request  all  tlie  American  shipping  to  withdraw  ; 
and  tlien  bring  his  arnicd  sliip  before  their  fort,  and  batter 
down  the  walls,  and  prostrate  their  village.  The  king  sign- 
ed the  instrument  ;  and  tlieii  he  together  with  the  queen  and 
chiefs,  like  some  other  people  wiio  feel  their  feelileness  be- 
fore a  mightier  nation,  had  only  the  poor  resort  of  a  pub- 
lie  remonstrance.  They  accordingly  sent  a  remonstrance 
to  the  king  of  Great  IJritian,  in  which  thev  sav,  that  "  on 
account  of  their  urging  us  so  strongly  ;  on  account  of  said 
commanders  assuring  ustliat  tiieir  communication  was  from 
the  king ;  and  un  account  of  tiieir  making  preparation  to 
fire  upon  us, — therefore  we  gave  our  assent  to  the  writing, 
without  our  being  willing  to  give  our  real  approbation  ;  for 
we  were  not  pleased  with  it."  Tliey  feel  incom|)etent  to 
contend  with  naval  strength,  and  therefore  submit  to  indig- 
nities from  which  their  feelings  revolt.     Why  can  not  the 


n^ 


?-lf 


■MHSf 


ation,  and 
disposition 
li tested  by 
)r  the  tal- 
ir  whether 
I  thus  pro- 
The  man- 
ted  by  the 
meet  with, 
tul  people. 
[  to  miitiial 
dictation ; 
are  made 
tigland  and 
ite.     Lord 
lan  of  war, 
y  assuring 
ly  longer  to 
I  leave  tlu; 
withdraw  ; 
nd  batter 
ving  sign- 
queen  and 
eness  be- 
ot'  a  pub. 
lonstrancc 
that  "on 
unt  of  said 
11  was  from 
aration   to 
writing, 
ation  ;  for 
nj)etont  to 
t  to  indig- 
an  not  tlic 


FOREIGN  RESIDENTS. 


357 


principles  of  justice  and  equity  govern  tiie  intercourse  of 
men  with  men,  where  they  are  so  well  understood,  and  the 
painful  necessity  be  spared  of  innocence  and  helplessness 
supplicating  that  protection  which  heaven  grants  to  its 
children. 

Much  has  been  said  of  the  cliaracter  of  the  foreign  res. 
idcnts,  and  of  the  counteracting  influence  they  exert  upon 
the  labors  of  the  missionaries  in  that  field.  The  cause  of 
their  bitterness  and  opposition  to  them  is  well  understood, 
and  lest  my  own  observations  should  seem  partial  to  the 
missionaries,  and  invidious  toward  those  who  oppose  them, 
1  will  embrace  all  I  have  to  say  on  the  subject  in  a  quota- 
tion from  a  work  published  by  Mr.  J.  N.  Reynold  of  the 
voyage  of  the  Potomac,  an  American  man  of  war.  He 
certainly  can  not  be  accused  of  partiality  to  the  missiona- 
ries who  reside  on  these  islands,  for  his  remarks  on  them 
are  somewhat  acrimonious,  but  in  regard  to  the  foreign  res- 
idents he  says,  "  they  are  generally  devoid  of  all  religious 
principle,  and  practice  the  greatest  frauds  upon  the  natives 
in  their  dealings  with  them ;  which  tends  to  corrupt  their 
morals,  and  to  preclude  all  hope  of  fairness  in  trade  among 
them.  It  can  not  be  denied,  and  no  one  can  regret  it  more 
than  we  do,  that  tliis  whole  population,  generally  speaking, 
are  of  the  lowest  order ;  among  whom  every  thing  like  de- 
cent restraint  which  civilized  society  imposes  upon  its 
members,  is  at  war  with  their  vicious  propensities,  and  of 
course  resisted  by  them  to  the  extent  of  their  power."  He 
farther  adds,  "  let  us  be  distinctly  understood  in  the  remarks 
we  have  made  in  reference  to  the  foreign  residents  and  mis- 
sionaries on  this  island.  As  to  the  question,  which  party 
is  on  the  side  of  virtue  and  good  order,  there  can  be  but 
one  opinion,  where  there  is  not  even  room  for  comparison." 
I  have  been  in  communities  where  vice  has  been  as  unblush- 
ingly  indulged,  but  I  have  never  witnessed  direct  enmity  to 


*    ■ 
i'  i 


I'  . 


1' 


!■;!:• 


m 


358 


ROYAL  CEMETAHY. 


every  thing  morally  good,  in  so  much  of  its  bitterness  and 
power,  as  in  Oahu. 

Most  of  the  foreign  residents  have  native  wivi  ?,  and 
manifest  a  regard  for  the  education  of  their  chi'  ek; 
and  send  some  of  them  to  other  countries  for  this  purpose  ; 
but  for  most  of  them  a  charity  school  has  been  established, 
and  for  its  support  a  call  is  made  upon  the  commanders  and 
officers  of  vessels  who  come  into  this  port ;  and  they  have 
even  sent  to  England  and  America  for  charitable  aid. 
Though  some  poor  are  taught  here,  yet  I  know  not  why  the 
benevolent  should  help,  by  way  of  charity^  the  consuls  and 
rich  merchants  in  Oahu. 

I  visited  the  seamen's  chapel  and  preached  several  times 
for  Rev.  Mr.  Diell.  While  there  are  often  several  hundred 
seamen  in  the  port  of  Honolulu,  there  are  frequently  very 
ieyf  attendants  on  the  regular  services  of  the  chapel.  Rev. 
Mr.  Diell,  their  worthy  chaplain,  is  however  indefatigable  in 
his  labors  through  the  week,  visiting  sailors  on  ship  board, 
and  wherever  he  can  find  them,  endeavouring  to  promote 
their  spiritual  good.  Some  conversions  have  crowned  his 
efforts. 

On  the  occasion  of  the  funeral  of  an  infant  of  the  Prin- 
cess, whose  husband  is  Leleiohoku,  alias  Wni.  Pitt,  I  visit- 
ed  the  burial  place  of  the  kings  and  royal  family.  This  is 
a  stone  building  of  rock  coral,  of  the  common  size  and 
structure  of  the  houses  of  the  village,  and  situated  amongst 
them,  having  nothing  particularly  distinguishable  except 
an  outward  signal,  by  which  is  understood  the  number  and 
rank  of  the  dead  within.  They  are  encased  lirst  in  lead,  se- 
cured from  the  admission  of  air,  and  then  deposited  in  cof- 
fins of  elegant  workmanship,  ornamented  with  silver  or 
brass  plate,  and  covered  with  rich  silk  velvet  or  damask  ot 
crimson.  Here  sleep  the  remains  of  Rihoriho,  and  Kame- 
hanialu,  who  died  on  a  visit  to  England,  and  several  others 


MISSIONARY  SUCCESS. 


359 


mess  and 


and 


eii 


chi 
s  purpose ; 
istablished, 
stnders  and 
they  have 
liable  aid. 
ot  why  the 
onsuls  and 

^eral  times 
•al  hundred 
ently  very 
pel.  Rev. 
fatigable  in 
ship  board, 
to  promote 
rowned  his 


laying  in  state ;  while  in  the  same  tomb,  are   interred  a 
number  of  other  members  of  the  royal  family. 

The  missionaries  of  the  American  Board  of  Commision- 
crs  for  Foreign  Missions  in  these  islands  have  done  much 
to  elevate  the  character  of  the  population,  by  teaching 
and  preaching  the  truths  of  Christianity,  by  schools,  where 
the  first  rudiments  of  education  are  taught,  by  the  press, 
and  a  translation  of  the  entire  bible ;  they  have  exer- 
ted a  salutary  influence  upon  the  morals  of  the  whole  na- 
tion, and  raised  a  monument  to  the  power  and  excellence  of 
the  gospel  of  Jesus  Christ.  They  have  also  laid,  instru- 
mentally,  a  broad  foundation  for  the  political,  and  social, 
and  religious  improvement  of  that  people,  unless  thwarted 
by  the  interference  and  opposition  of  foreigners,  and  for 
the  future  and  unending  happiness  of  many  redeemed  souls 
in  the  world  to  come.  I  had  frequent  opportunities  of  wit- 
nessing the  effect  of  their  labors  in  the  evidences  of  the 
moral  renovation  of  these  once  idolaters,  and  of  meeting 
with  them  in  their  great  congregation  on  the  sabbath. 


■1; 

!'• 

•■'I 
.1. 
•1 


h  i 


the  Prin- 
itt,  I  visit- 
This  is 

size   and 

d  amongst 

ble   except 

umber  and 

in  lead,  se- 

ted  in  cof- 

silver  or 
damask  of 
md  Kame- 
cral  others 


360 


nOMEWAllD  BOUND. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


urn 


m 


■'*  t' 


fjl.) 


Departure  from  Oahu  in  ship  PhcBtiix  for  the  United  States — call  at 
the  Society  Islands— brief  description  of  Tahiti  and  Einieo — severe  gales 
of  wind— Magellan  clouds— Martin  Voss  island— Trinidad— arrival  at 
New  London. 


From  July  to  November,  no  vessel  departed  from  the  is- 
lands direct  for  the  United  States,  and  after  being  detained 
about  five  months,  waiting  an  o|)i)ortunity  to  return,  I  en- 
gaged  a  passage  in  the  Phajnix,  Aliyn,  from  New  London, 
and  embarked  December  17th.  The  ship  was  built  for  the 
China  trade,  of  four  hundred  and  ten  tons,  manned  with 
twenty-cight  persons,  besides  five  passengers.  The  pilot 
boat  left  us  well  out  at  sea,  at  nine  in  the  morning ;  our 
course  south-west.  On  the  morning  of  the  21st,  we  en- 
countered a  strong  wind,  which  in  the  aflornoon  had  in- 
crv^ased  so  much,  that  we  had  to  put  two  reefs  in  the  top 
sails  ;  and  a  squall  split  our  jii)  and  sprung  our  foremast. 
I  had  no  opportunity  or  disposition  to  enjoy  the  gnindeii  r 
of  the  rolling  ocean,  being  confined  to  the  cal)in  by  sea 
sickness.  Our  ship  was  engaged  in  the  whaling  bu- 
siness,  and  I  was  furnished  with  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  cxperiuiont,  once,  of  taking  a  whale.  The  thing  has 
often  been  described,  but  the  novelty  of  the  manoeuvre  in- 
terested me.  The  experienced  and  skillful  whalemen  dis- 
pose of  the  dangerous  process,  with  the  tactics  of  tiieir  pro- 
fession, in  a  manner  much  beyond  uiy  concei)tions  before 
witnessing  it;  and  the  monster  of  the  deep,  though  mighty 
in  his  strength,  is  made  to  submit  to  inferior  [)ower,  and  to 
contribute  largely  to  illuminate  our  evenings  at  home. 
There  are  said  to  be  thirty  thousand  men  employed  in  this 


TETAROA  AND  TAHITI  ISLANDS. 


361 


tts— call  at 
severe  gales 
I— a  nival  at 


im  the  is- 
y  detained 
irn,  I  en. 
r  London, 
lilt  for  the 
ined  with 
The  pilot 
ning;  our 
jt,  wc  en- 
1  had   in- 
tiic  top 
foreniast. 
grandcu  r 
n   hy  sea 
iliiig    bu- 
of  scoing 
thing  lias 
lEUvre  in- 
inon  dis- 
hcir  pro- 
is  before 
h  migiity 
M",  and  to 
il   iionie. 
d  in  thi8 


business  in  the  Pacific,  while  only  aboui  four  hundred  are 
engaged  in  diffusing  the  light  of  life  through  the  dark  pla- 
ces of  tiie  earth. 

January  12th,  1837.  Tlirotigh  the  whole  of  to-da>  wc 
had  strong  gales  from  N.  N.  E.  Our  top  sails  were  close 
reefed, — split  our  main  top  sail.  Headed  to  the  E.  close  on 
the  wind.  Very  bad  sea — not  able  to  take  any  observation 
of  oi'r  latitude  or  longitude.  These  gales  continued  on  the 
13th  until  aln^.ost  every  eail  was  taken  in,  and  wc  ley  to  on 
the  wind.  The  last  part  of  the  day  was  more  moderate 
and  .ve  headed  south.  By  observation  taken  to-day,  our 
latitude  was  14°  47'  south. 

Sabbath,  15th.  The  winds  subsided,  and  the  weather  was 
warm.  In  the  morning  wo  came  near  Tetaroa,  a  small  is- 
land of  the  Society  group.  It  is  low,  rising  but  little  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  thinly  inhabited,  and  covered,  in  parts, 
with  groves  of  the  cocoa  nut  tree.  Like  all  the  islands  of 
this  ocean  which  I  have  seen,  it  is  surrounded  with  coral 
reefs,  laying  off  at  a  little  distance  from  the  shore,  and 
upon  which  the  sea  constantly  breaks.  In  the  afternoon 
we  approached  the  harbor  of  Papeeti  at  tlie  island  of  Tahiti. 
The  pilot  came  off*  to  us,  and  made  an  effort  to  get  the  sliip 
in,  but  did  not  succeed,  the  wind  being  too  light,  and  we 
had  to  bear  oflf  for  the  night.  Monday  the  16th  we  got 
safely  into  the  harbor,  where  we  found  the  Daniel  Webster, 
Pierson,  from  Sag  harbor ;  on  board  ol  which  were  Rev. 
W.  Richards  and  family,  passengers  for  the  United  States. 

We  continued  in  this  port  four  days,  during  which  time 
I  made  several  excursions  about  the  island,  and  liecaire  ac- 
(piainted  with  the  English  missionaries,  of  whose  success- 
ful labors  I  had  often  heard  and  read  ;  the  Rev.  Messrs. 
Wilson,  Pritchard,  and  Darling,  and  their  families.  They 
appear  happy  in  their  work,  and  devoted  to  it.  The  chris. 
tian  religion  is  tlie  only  religion  acknowledged  in  these  is- 

ands,   and    its    influence    is    universally    apj)arcnt.   Be. 
91 


M 


• .. 


362 


GOVERNMENT. 


^h 


sides  preaching  on  the  sabbath,  the  missionaries  have  re- 
ligious service  on  other  days  of  the  week.  At  sun-rise 
every  morning  they  have  a  pubHc  prayer  meeting.  They 
are  doing  much  by  their  schools  and  the  press ;  and  most  of 
the  people  can  read.  The  performances  of  the  natives  in 
vocal  music  pleased  me,  their  voices  being  very  eoft  and 
musical,  though  less  cultivated  than  the  Sandwich  island- 
ers. Their  personal  appearance,  complexion,  language,  and 
dress  much  the  same  as  those.  Their  advances  in  the  arts 
and  in  agriculture  are  less  than  might  be  expected  of  them, 
but  in  a  cUmate  where  so  many  fruits  vegetate  spontane- 
ously, the  necessity  of  cultivation  is  less  imperious.  While 
the  harbor  is  not  as  good  as  that  of  Oahu,  less  is  done  by 
way  of  wharfing,  or  otherwise  to  facilitate  business,  or  aid 
in  repairing  the  shipping  which  visit  this  island.  A  good 
public  road  has  been  commenced  to  extend  around  the 
island  ;  but  it  is  now  neglected,  and  all  the  bridges  are  bro- 
ken  down. 

The  government  here  is  much  the  same  as  in  the  Sand- 
wich islands  ;  but  in  some  respects  more  free  and  systema- 
tized. Their  judiciary  is  well  organized  and  justice  is  tol- 
erably well  administered.  Their  legislative  body  is  com- 
posed of  the  queen,  governors,  chiefs,  and  two  representa- 
tives from  each  district,  of  the  islands  of  Tahiti  and  Eim- 
eo ;  the  laws  when  framed  are  canvassed  by  the  people,  and 
if  approved,  receive  the  queen's  siTnature.  The  young 
queen  Pomare  is  of  very  prepossessing  appearance,  talent- 
ed, and  has  descision  of  character ;  but  her  views  of  civil- 
ization  arc  not  so  enlarged  as  those  of  Madam  Kinau. 

Tho  American  consul,  of  these  islands,  resides  at  Papec- 
ti ;  he  is  a  Dutchman,  and  as  he  informed  me,  a  native  of 
Antwerp.  His  English  is  iiardly  intelligible,  and  his  knowl 
edge  of  the  duties  of  his  office  is  yet  to  bo  acquired. 

Tho  islands  of  Tahiti  and  Eimco  like  the  other  large  is- 
lands of  the  Pacific  arc  volcanic  and  coraline.     They  arc 


RwH^if 


PUBLIC  FEAST. 


363 


have  re- 
sun.rise 
r.     They 
d  most  of 
latives  in 
soft  and 
;h  island- 
uage,  and 
n  the  arts 
d  of  them, 
spontane* 
s.    While 
s  done  by 
iss,  or  aid 
A  good 
round   the 
es  are  bro. 

the  Sand- 
i  systema- 
tice  is  toK 
y  is  com- 
cpresenta . 
and  Eim- 
)cople,  and 
'he  young 
cc,  talcnt- 
s  of  civil- 
inuu. 
at  Papcc- 
native  of 
his  knowl 
red. 

r  large  is- 
Thoy  are 


mountainous,  many  of  which  are  high  and  steep,  and  ma- 
ny  of  the  valleys  are  deep  and  narrow,  extending  far  into 
the  interior.  To  s.  considerable  extent  the  soil  is  rich  and  pro- 
ductive ;  oranges  and  all  the  other  tropical  fruits  being  abund- 
ant,  and  requiring  little  lahor  or  care.  Such  is  the  indo- 
lence of  the  inhabitants  that  they  cultivate  little  besides  su- 
gar cane  and  a  few  vegetables.  These  islands  are  well  sup- 
plied with  forests,  in  which  are  several  kinds  of  wood  equal 
in  value  for  cabinet  work,  to  mahogany.  Although  there 
are  many  pleasant  and  inviting  things  in  these  islands,  yet 
they  come  much  short  of  the  Paradise  which  some  journal- 
ists have  described  ^  The  heat  most  of  the  year  is  very 
oppressive. 

I  would  not  fail  to  mention  the  kind  hospitality  of  Rev. 
G.  Pritchard  and  family,  and  an  agreeable  excursion  I  made 
to  Point  ''enus,  the  eastern-most  port  of  the  island,  which 
is  uncommonly  delightful ;  and  the  pleasure  I  had  in  taking 
tea  in  the  family  of  Rev.  Mr.  Wilson. 

During  my  short  stay,  the  queen  and  royal  family  of  a 
neighboring  island,  paid  a  visit  of  friendship  to  Tahiti. 
This  afforded  me  the  very  desirable  opportunity  of  remark- 
ing the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people.   A  public  feast 
was  given  in  honor  of  the  royal  visitant ;  and  the  day  was 
ushered  in  by  firing  rusty  guns,  of  which  they  have  a  very 
few.     The   morning  until   ten  o'clock  was  occupied   in 
collecting  together  their  cocoanuts,  bananas,  baked  hogs, 
&c.     Many  were  out  to   purchase   calico  scarfs  of  two 
or  three  yards  in  length  to  wear  in  the   procession.     A 
V  ery  large  procession  formed,  the  women  taking  the  lead, 
and  the  men  following  in  order.     A  female  with  an  infant 
in  her  arms  led  the  van.  This  was  explained  to  me  as  done- 
in  honor  of  mothers;  for  here  as  well  as  at  the  Sandwich 
islands  women  arc  regarded  as  in  all  respects  on  a  par  with 
men.     Ail  were  well  attired  in  European  stvle,  their  headt^t 
adorned  tastefully  with  garlands  of  most  beautiful  tropical 


364 


WATER  SPOUT. 


Vjr-> 


[^ 


I*: 


.i 


flowers  with  wliich  their  sea-girt  isle  abounds  in  profusion. 
After  taking,  in  single  file,  a  long  and  circuitous  march,  they 
arrived  at  their  feasting  bower,  under  a  grove  of  cocoanut, 
bread-fruit,  and  orange  trees,  where  near  the  centre,  with 
an  infant,  sat  the  royal  visitor ;  and  each  Tahitian  as  they 
passed,  threw  down  at  her  feet  their  scarfs  or  some  other  pre- 
sent. It  was  the  pleasure  of  the  queen,  however,  not  long 
to  retain  all  tiicso  tokens  of  honor  ;  for  she  seemed  happy 
in  generously  giving  them  to  others.  This  is  considered 
one  of  their  most  joyful  holidays,  and  was  managed  without 
noise,  confusion,  or  any  apparent  infraction  of  the  rules  of 
propriety.  It  must  be  recollected  that  ibis  is  a  temperance 
island ;  all  trafiic  in  ardent  spirits  being  prohibited  by  law. 

On  the  morning  of  Saturday  21st  January,  we  left  the 
harbor  of  Tahiti  with  a  light  wind,  and  as  we  sailed  around 
Eimeo,  its  mountains,  with  their  densely  wooded  tops  and 
precipitous  sides,  appeared  in  full  prospect.  On  this  island 
there  is  a  high  school  for  the  children  of  the  missionary 
families  of  the  several  islands. 

We  proceeded  with  a  favoral)le  wind  until  the  30th,  when 
our  latitude  was  30°  27' south,  and  iongitude  153"  10'  west. 
I  was  here  uuich  gratified  to  witness  the  interesting  phe- 
nomenon of  a  water  spout.  It  first  became  visible  to  us 
about  half  a  mile  distant  as  it  arose,  and  at  that  distance 
we  had  no  apprehensions  of  danger  from  it,  and  yet  it  was 
sulficiently  near  to  give  a  distinct  view.  It  commenced  in 
a  small,  dark,  and  nearly  perjiendicular  column,  enlarging 
its  diameter  as  it  rose  until  it  readied  the  region  of  the 
clouds,  when  apparently  feeling  the  inlluence  of  the  wind, 
it  passed  obliquely  to  the  south  west.  It  continued  in  view 
some  time,  but  as  we  wei*e  proceeding  on  our  course,  it  grad- 
ually disappeared. 

On  tlie  4th  of  February,  fresh  lireezcs  from  the  north, 
west  took  the  j)lace  of  the  south-east  trade  winds,  and  our 
course  was  laid  E.  S.  E. 


irli 


ACCIDENT HEAVY  6ALB. 


365 


refusion, 
rch,  they 
!Ocoanut, 
tre,  with 
I  as  they 
»ther  pre- 
not  long 
sd  happy 
)nsidered 
i  without 
)  rules  of 
iipemnce 
1  by  law. 
'.  left  the 
id  around 
tops  and 
[lis  island 
issionary 

)tli,  when 
]()' west, 
ing  phe- 
le  to  us 
distance 
et  it  was 
3 need  in 
nlarging 
n  of  the 
JO  wind, 
in  view 
il  gnid- 

north. 
;ind  our 


Oh  the  5th,  we  had  strong  gales  from  the  west.  Put  two 
reefs  in  the  top  sails,  and  took  in  the  mizzen  top  sail,  and' 
handed  the  main  sail.  The  sea  was  very  heavy.  On  the 
9th  the  wind  was  more  moderate  ;  and  while  the  men  were 
engaged  in  spearing  porpoises,  one  of  them  fell  overboard 
from  the  bow,  and  went  directly  under  the  ship,  and  came 
up  under  her  stern.  The  life  buoy  was  thrown  over  to  him,, 
but  being  an  indifferent  swimmer  he  was  long  in  his  efforts 
to  seize  it.  By  lowering  the  boat  and  rounding  about  the 
ship,  he  was  recovered  on  board  much  exhausted,  and  al- 
most overcome  with  the  cold.  Hundreds  are  daily,  by  a 
great  variety  of  occurrences  taken  from  the  world,  and  the 
certain  knowledge  awakens  but  feeble  sensations  in  our  bo- 
soms ;  but  a  solitary  case  of  individual  danger  and  suffer- 
ing which  we  witness,  arouses  all  our  anxieties  and  sympa- 
thies, and  we  r.re  grateful  when  relieved  by  the  safety  of 
the  sufferer. 

On  the  16th  and  17th,  the  gale  was   tremendous.     We 

were  in  latitude  about  47^  south,  and  120°  west  longitude. 

With  nearly  every  sail  taken  in,  we  could  only  run  before- 

the  wind,  and  the  waves  were  constantly  breaking  in  over 

our  bulwarks.     Such  was  the  roaring  of  the  wind  and 

breaking  waves,  that  it  was  difficult  for  the  orders  of  the 

captain  to  be  heard,  upon  his  loudesi  voice,  from  midship, 

forward  or  atlt.     The  wind  blew  tons  of  water  into  the  air 

and  scattered  them  into  a  thousand  sprays.     I  never  had 

such  evidence  of  the  power  of  wind  and  water,  nor  of  the  ad-. 

mirable  man'^.i-  the  sliip  could  live  in  such  a  ga'c.     She 

would  roll  upon  tiie  waves  and  plunge  and  rise  again  upon- 

the  mountain  !)illows.     The  whole  scene  was  fraught  with 

magnificence  and  grand»^M  .      It  was  a  great  favor  that  we 

had  a  courageous  and  c  <j<erionced  captain  ;  and  a  sober, 

active,  and  obedient  crow  ;  and  above  all  the  protection  of 

Heaven.     Two  men  weie  constantly  at  the  wheel,  selected 

from  our  host  steersmen.     We  shipped  a  groat  (quantity  of 
31* 


li 


366 


THE  NODDY  AND  ALBATR08S. 


M' 


ar^ 


u 


'JliM 


mm 


water,  and  on  the  night  of  tlie  17th,  the  fore  deck,  scarcely  at 
at  any  time,  had  less  than  a  foot  or  two  feet  of  water,  the 
waves  breaking  over  faster  than  the  water  had  time  to  pass 
through  the  scuppers.  Two  pumps  wero  at  work  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  time  to  keep  the  ship  clear,  so  much  was  constant- 
ly finding  its  way  down  the  closed  hatches  and  otiier  leakages 
of  the  deck.  Tlie  two  men  at  each  pump,  labored  so  forcibly, 
that  it  was  necessary  to  be  relieved  by  others  every  three 
minutes.  I  reflected  on  the  condition  of  those  who  were 
not  prepared  for  death,  and  that  even  to  a  christian  a  quiet 
deatii  bed  would  bo  })referable  to  leaving  the  world  in  such  a 
scene  of  confusion.  But  we  were  spared  in  great  kindness, 
and  the  following  morning  the  wind  began  to  abate.  Cap- 
tain Allyn,  who  iiad  been  into  most  of  the  principal  seas, 
aii<I  fpvmud  both  of  the  great  Capes,  said  he  never,  except 
m  a  lyphoon  which  lie  encounted  on  the  Japan  coast,  saw 
any  ::vale  which  equalled  this. 

The  gales  continued  with  frequent  squalls  of  hail  and 
;aiii  vintii  the  28tli,  when  we  found  we  were  driven  to  the 
Sd""'  of  jouth  latitude,  and  77"  wciit  longitude.  This  was 
fartijcr  south  of  Cape  Horn  thau  v,e  wished  to  go,  and  the 
weather  was  cold  and  thick,  the  thermometer  ranging  be- 
tween 41"^  and  47-  for  several  days.  On  the  1st  of  March 
we  saw  for  thu  llrst  time  alter  leaving  Tahiti,  a  sail  to  the 
windward  heading  soutii-west,  bu>  were  unable  to  speak 
her.  It  was  very  pleasant  to  iind  our  latitude  le^ssening  in 
our  homeward  co'.rse,  tliough  we  were  not  up  with  the  cape 
until  tlie  tiiird  .)i"  Marcli.  Dining  the  gak-s,  and  cs])L>ciallv 
in  stormy  vtaliier,  our  vessel  was  \ery  frequently  visited 
by  a  bird  \vhjch  navigators  call  tho  Noddy,  and  which  is 
easily  tdken  by  the  han('.  It  i.>.  of  the  Tern  genus,  twelve 
inches  long,  slenderly  foruied  ;  its  plu  na^e  is  a  dark  sooty 
brown,  excepting  the  top  of  its  iuad  which  is  dusky  while. 
Tlic  Albatross  also  was  constantly  Hying  about  un,  regard- 
tees  of  wind  and  waves.     Our  men  caught  several  of  them 


By- 


MAGELLAN  CLOUDS. 


367 


ircely  at 
iter,  the 
d  to  pass 
irge  por- 
jonstant- 
leakages 
tbicibly, 
ry  three 
ho  were 
n  a  quiet 
in  such  a 
kindness, 
e.  Cap- 
pa!  seas, 
r,  except 
>ast,  saw 

hail  and 
n  to  the 
fhis  was 

and  the 
ging  be- 
3t'  Marcli 
il  to  the 
to  speak 
lening  in 

the  cape 

sjK'ciallv 
y  visited 
which  is 
s,  twelve 
rk  sooty 

y  while, 
icfrnrd- 

oi'  them 


with  a  hook,  the  heads  of  which,  when  standing  upon  the 
deck,  were  four  feet  high  ;  their  aler  measurement  was  ten 
feet.  Although  they  are  generally  of  a  brown  color,  yet  in 
the  region  of  Cape  Horn,  they  are  from  a  mixture  of  brown 
and  white,  to  an  almost  entire  white.  They  are  the  larg- 
est class  of  the  feathered  race. 

•  We  had  for  a  long  time  an  opportunity  of  observing  the 
Magellan  clouds;  which  are  three  in  number,  two  luminous 
and  one  black ;  about  thirty  degrees  distant  from  each  oth- 
er and  are  lixed  in  their  relative  situations  as  are  the  fixed 
stars.  Their  altitude  above  the  southern  horizon  lessens  to 
the  beholder,  according  as  iiis  latitude  diminishes,  as  he  j)ro- 
ceeds  north.  Their  undefined  forms  are  about  five  degrees 
in  diameter.  The  luminous  ones  undoubtedly  are  formed 
by  clusters  of  stars,  so  numerous  and  contiguous,  and  so 
distant,  as  only  to  give  a  glimmering  light  like  lumi- 
nous clouds,  which  gives  them  their  name  ;  and  the  black 
one  is  very  probably  the  entire  absence  of  all  light.  I  gaz- 
ed at  these,  night  after  niglit,  with  wonder  and  admiration. 
It  seemed  to  me,  tliat  looking  at  the  dark  one,  was  looking 
beyond  created  nature  into  infinite  space. 

Gales  occurred  occasionally  after  wc  doubled  Cape  Horn, 
but  most  of  the  time  was  j)lcasaut  and  the  winds  favorable, 
until  the  27th  of  Marcli  in  south  latitude  23°  27',  and  west 
longitude  28°  34',  the  wind  came  around  to  the  north, 
and  continued  to  blow  in  a  northerly  direction  ten  days, 
which  retarded  our  progress,  and  carried  us  ofi"  our  course 
to  the  east,  until  we  were  brought  into  20°  west  longitude, 
where  wc  cluing(!d  our  cours(;  west  by  north.  On  the  1st 
of  April  we  spoke  an  East  Indiaman.  She  was  a  very 
large,  fine-looking  ship,  about  eight  hundnd  tons,  well  tilled 
with  men,  wom(>n,  and  children,  who  probably  were  passen- 
gcrs  for  New  Holland.  This  was  the  first  ship  we  had  sj)o- 
ken  after  the  Spartan,  near  the  line  on  the  other  side  of  the 
continent.     It  is  diflicult  to  imagine  how  pleatant  it  is  to 


%»^ 


368 


MABTIN  VAS8  AND  TRINIDAD  ISLANDS. 


.Jr 


I 


see  and  speak  a  ship  after  having  been  months  at  sea.  A. 
few  hours  after  we  saw  another  East  Indiaman,  but  did  not 
speak  her.  By  falling  in  with  these  ships,  we  found  we  were 
so  near  Africa,  that  we  were  in  the  track  of  ships  from 
Europe  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  same  day  we  buried  in  the  great  deep  Benjamin 
Hamilton,  a  seaman.  It  was  a  solemn  transaction  to  com. 
mit  one  of  our  fellow  creatures  to  a  watery  grave.  The 
colors  were  raised  half  mast,  the  corpse,  with  weights  at  the 
feet,  was  laid  upon  a  plank  at  the  gang  way, — all  hands 
were  gathered  aroimd  ;  and  after  some  remarks  suggested 
by  the  occasion,  and  a  prayer,  the  plank  was  shoved  over 
the  side  of  the  ship,  and  the  dead  disappeared  to  be  seen  no 
more. 

On  the  2d,  we  made  Martin  Vass  islands,  which  are  five 
in  number,  composed  wholly  of  volcanic  rocks,  without  any 
soil ;  some  of  them  are  cones,  shooting  up  four  or  five  hund- 
red feet.  Two  are  very  small  and  needle  pointed.  They 
are  all  so  precipitous,  and  the  sea  constantly  breaking 
against  them,  that  there  is  no  landing.  Their  forms  are 
fantastical ;  one  of  them  having  the  appearance  of  a  forti- 
fication with  bastions,  about  which  are  needle  points  resemb. 
ing  men  on  guard.  They  are  in  20°  31'  south  latitude,  and 
28°  38'  west  longitude.  By  changing  our  course  more 
westerly  we  made  Trinidad  off  against  St.  Roque,  which  is 
an  island  of  considerable  size,  and  in  latitude  20°  28',  and 
longitude  29°  5'.  Near  evening  wo  were  fifteen  miles  from 
it,  and  wishing  to  land  in  the  morning,  we  took  in  sail  and 
lay  off  for  the  night.  Some  Portugese  once  settled  upon 
it,  but  it  is  so  difhcult  of  access,  that  they  abandoned  it,  and 
it  is  now  without  any  inhabitants. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d  we  ran  down  to  within  three 
miles  of  the  island,  and  manned  three  boats  to  go  on  shore ; 
but  finding  no  place  free  from  breakers,  wo  gave  up  the  at- 
tempt, caught  a  lew  tisli  near  the  shores,  and  after  being 


EVENINGS  AT  SEA. 


369 


did  not 
we  were 
ps  from 

enjamin 
to  com- 
B.  The 
its  at  the 
1  hands 
[iggested 
ved  over 
I  seen  no 

are  five 
lout  any 
ve  hund- 
.  They 
creaking 
rms  are 

a  forti- 
resemb- 
ude,  and 
se  more 
which  is 
28',  and 

es  from 
sail  and 
sd  upon 
d  it,  and 

n  three 
1  shore ; 
the  ut. 
■r  being 


much  annoyed  with  flies  which  came  off  to  us,  wc  returned 
to  the  ship,  and  with  a  favorable  breeze  pursued  our  course. 
This  island  is  also  volcanic,  has  an  iron-bound  shore,  and  is 
mountainous,  the  highest  part  of  which  is  about  fifteen 
hundred,  or  two  thousand  feet.  It  is  a^place  of  resort  for 
multitudes  of  birds  and  sea  fowl,  some  of  which  are  large. 
I  had  an  opportunity  to  see,  but  not  to  examine,  the  man-of- 
war  hawk.  They  are  numerous  here,  and  while  they  are 
handsome,  they  are  also  ravenous,  always  taking  their  prey 
upon  the  wing.  There  were  many  of  the  perfectly  silky 
white  species  of  the  Tern,  which  hovered  over  us  witli  great 
tameness,  as  though  they  wished  to  form  an  acquaintance 
witli  us,  not  suspecting  any  hostility. 

Most  of  our  nights  as  well  as  days  for  a  long  time  were 
clear,  and  the  stars  were  seen  with  remarkable  brightness. 
What  has  been  described  by  others  of  evenings  at  sea,  in 
tile  southern  hemisphere,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  observing 
with  admiration.  The  richest  colors  of  red,  orange,  and 
yellow,  spreading  over  tlie  western  sky  after  the  setting 
sun,  and  often  over  the  whole  concave  of  heaven.  No  pen- 
cil of  art  can  imitate  the  tints  and  hues  which  blend  in 
softness  over  tliis  scene  of  beauty.  Nature's  pencil  only  can 
lay  on  tliese  delicate  shades,  and  add  to  it  the  brilliancy, 
ever  varying,  of  so  much  richness  and  splendor. 

In  the  deep  seas  wc  did  not  sec  many  fish ;  of  the  few 
which  came  under  our  observation,  the  dorado,  or  as  com- 
monly called,  the  dolphin,  and  the  pilot  fisli  excelled  in  the 
beauty  of  their  colors.  The  former,  when  taken  upon  deck, 
constantly  ciianged  its  ctlor  from  the  brigiit  purple  to  the 
gold,  the  bluish  green,  and  to  the  silver  white,  and  these 
spreading  out  into  vanishing  shades.  The  pilot  fish  is 
equally  beautiful,  but  is  singular  in  the  choice  of  company 
and  employment ;  always  being  found  with  the  shark,  and 
conducting  him  to  his  prey,  from  which  it  derives  its  name. 

Tiie  fiying  fish  is  a  curiosity,  furnished  with  the  means  of 


370 


CB088  THE  EQUATOR — LAND  DB8CBIED. 


occupying  air  and  water,  but  finds  no  friend  in  either  ;  pur- 
sued by  the  dolphin  and  some  other  fish  it  swims  with  all 
speed  until  wearied,  and  then  takes  to  flight  in  the  air, 
where  the  albatross  and  the  tropic  bird  hover  over  to  make 
it  their  prey.  In  their  flight  they  often  fall  upon  the  decks 
of  ships,  where  man  shows  them  no  mercy. 

On  the  19th  of  April  we  passed  the  equator.  F<>f  a  few 
days  we  had  calms  or  only  light  winds  with  showers.  The 
heat  was  very  intense,  and  calms  under  these  circumstan- 
ces are  more  to  be  dreaded  than  gales.  But  we  were  much 
favored,  and  soon  found  ourselves  in  north  latitude,  where  it 
was  very  interesting  to  see  the  north  star  once  more,  though 
only  just  above  the  horizon. 

All  objects  at  sea  are  considered  worthy  of  notice,  and 
among  these  the  gulf  weed  which  we  saw  in  great  abund- 
ance  before  we  came  to  the  gulf  stream.  We  entered  and 
passed  the  stream  on  the  14th  of  May,  in  36^  37'  north  lat- 
itude ;  and  though  a  rough  sea  is  generally  expected  in  the 
stream,  yet  we  had  a  very  pleasant  time.  The  current  is  at 
the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour,  and  the  temperature  seven 
degrees  warmer  than  the  adjacent  water. 

On  the  17th  of  May,  at  three  in  the  afternoon,  we  were 
cheered  with  the  cry  from  the  mast  head,  "  Land  ho !  ahead." 
It  proved  to  be  Block  island.  We  came  in  sight  of  the 
light-house  in  the  evening,  but  too  late  to  attempt  to  get 
into  New  London  before  morning,  and  therefore  lay  off  for 
the  night.  In  the  morning  we  found  ourselves  among  vari- 
ous shipping  bound  to  different  ports.  Passed  Montauk 
Point  and  drew  near  to  New  London,  where  the  sight  of 
the  city,  the  shipping  in  the  harbor,  the  country  around, 
and  the  islands  dressed  in  green,  conspired  to  excite  pleas- 
ing admiration,  and  especially  to  one  so  long  conversant 
with  heathen  countries  and  a  wide  expanse  of  ocean.  Pass- 
ed up  the  Thames  to  the  city,  and  I  rejoiced  to  land  once 
more  upon  christian  and  civilized  shores,  my  native  land. 


ARBIVAL  AT   HOME. 


371 


tlier ;  pur- 
a  with  all 
n  the  air, 
r  to  make 
the  decks 

Fof  R  few 
ers.  The 
rcumstan- 
rere  much 
if  where  it 
)re,  though 


"  where  my  best  friends  and  kindred  dwell."  In  taking  leave 
of  the  Phoenix,  I  felt  it  due  to  the  captain  and  crew  to  say, 
that  I  received  from  them  every  kind  attention  I  could  wish, 
and  being  a  temperance  ship,  I  did  not  hear  a  profane  word 
from  any  while  on  board.  We  had  public  worship  during 
the  voyage  on  the  sabbath,  and  the  word  of  God  was  bless- 
ed as  there  was  reason  to  believe,  to  the  saving  conversion 
of  some  souls.  I  found  kind  friends  in  New  London,  and 
after  arranging  my  business,  directed  my  way  to  Ithaca, 
where  I  arrived  on  the  23d  of  May,  after  an  absence  of 
more  than  two  years  and  two  months,  and  having  journey- 
ed twenty -eight  thousand  miles. 


lotice,  and 
iat  abund- 
itered  and 
north  lat- 
sted  in  the 
irrent  is  at 
ture  seven 


THE   END. 


I,  we  were 
0 !  ahead." 
ght  of  the 
ipt  to  get 
lay  off  for 
nong  vari- 
1  Montauk 
e  sight  of 
ry  around, 
cite  pleas- 
;onversant 
^an.  Pass- 
» land  once 
lative  land. 


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